Move Hard 9b | Full Ascent with Commentary | Stefano Ghisolfi
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- On the last day of our Norway trip I finally managed to grab the second ascent of my side project, Move Hard 9b. This line was freed by Adam Ondra and it connects Move to the second crux of Silence (Project Hard).
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You can also find me on Instagram
IG: / steghiso
Filmed and edited by 📸🎥:
Nicolò Conterno : / nicoloconterno
Diego Borello : / diegoborello_
Andrea Bandinelli : / zio_banda
Classic 9b side project for training.
Damn the fact that you not only climbed 9b but also did three outfit changes on the route is super impressive. Maybe you have a record for most outfit changes on a 9b now.
🤣 impressive
I'm expecting that on the send of silence he will be fully nude by the end
Maybe they should rename move hard to change and vice versa :D
Finally, now that Stefano is a RUclipsr we can get that sweet Magnus collab we've all been waiting for!
Also Stefano: saying he's no professional climber anymore while climbing 9b
@@Johnny-zs6vo Italian humbleness
Soamm magnus this must happen.. he even comes to norway for silence so ots perfect!
Also while downgrading to easy 9c s ^°@@Johnny-zs6vo
Can confirm, I just subscribed to Stef today and managed to send the pink one in the corner.
Can confirm. Usually a v4 climber, hit that bell, tried a v6, flashed it np.
This is perfect timing for my current project, which is similar in length, steepness and complexity, but much easier (mid-8 instead of mid-9). Pushing my body and mind to the limits at age 65, the hardest technical challenge of my long climbing career. Thank you for the inspiration!
Now that sounds inpiring! I hope you'll get your project done :)
Mid 8 is still really fkn hard, esp at 65
Wow - 20 minutes on a route like that. Insane. Thanks Stefano for sharing this with us. :)
When you have a 9b as a side project, you know you’re doing it right. Vai Stefano!
Battuta tremendamente sottovalutata questa
I can't believe it, yesterday I subscribed to this channel and liked this video. For some reason today I was climbing 2 grades above what I usually do. It's like magic...
Great commentary in this super hard climb. Thanks a lot. After i liked this video, a miracle has happened: I was able to get up from my couch within 30 seconds, normaly i need a minute...
These videos are just so cool. The commentary was really good, thanks Stefano! ☺💫
That was amazing! Great job narrating the climbg
This is an incredible recording of an absolutely mind blowing climb.
Grande ghiso, sei in nostro eroe, oggi ho chiuso il mio primo 7a, e penso sia anche merito tuo! ;)
I’m loving all the excellent content from climbers recently! I’m excited to see you grow the channel.
Holly crap, This was really mesmerizing to watch .And looking at the length of the video, this put the level of the route to perspective. i mean, i, an average climber, am exausted when i spend more than 2-3 min on a route. in a competition the routes are graded 8a to 8c with a time limit of 6 min. here the ascend takes more than 20 min with the fast forward on the rests.
Even with good rests, the endurance you need to keep climbing for that long is insane!
Ah and the narration was really nice as well :p
Congrats on the send, Stefano!
I've really enjoyed following your journey in the cave, and look forward to your RUclips career! ;)
I hit the like button at the beginning of the video, but then paused it. I went climbing and I was somehow two grades stronger, but didn't know why. I watched the rest of the video later and then he told us we would climb harder if we hit the like button, so thanks for sharing some of your power.
Impressive as always. However slipping off that knee-bar during the rope change would be an extremely painful experience, given all that slack of the static sling 🤕
I have had that happen....hard on the kidneys!
That was great . Incredible climb. You make possible the impossible . I´m sure that you send "Silence" the next time. Congrats.
Is he downgrade Silence to 9b? Or this is not the same route that Adam took?
Amazing! Can't wait for 2023
you are awesome Stefano!!!!!! MAGNIFICO!!!!!! CONGRATS!!!!!!
Holy whatever! It was a really though and long climb! I wonder how long it actually took at normal speed! I must have been around 30 mins! 😮
Congratulations Stefanoo!! Amazing few weeks you have had. Thank you for sharing it all in such a fun smooth manner!
Best vid of sending move hard ive ever seen
Have subscribed for a long time… but just turn on notification bell so that I can send 2 grades harder… thanks Stefano..😂😂
Very nice route. Really looking forward to the send of Silence
Fantastic climbing, awesome filming, thanks to you and the whole crew for the premium quality content !!
Awesome! Good job, looks super hard.
Notification bell on, I better be climbing V7 tomorrow. Its the last day befor my project is reset.
Amazing video, love the music choice and pace of the voiceover
Awesome video, congrats on the send!
Dude this video is just gold. Nothing beats a full send video! Congrats again dude.
I love it when I send my 9b side project. Whilst it’s not 9c it’s still good for training 😅
Now I'm wondering how Adam's next route will look like after he clicked on the bell icon.
Amazing climbing and amazing video! Let me make a note thoe. Isn't it a bad idea to be clipped just to a sling that isn't fully tense? In case you fell from the kneebar during the "rope change", you would fall on a sling that doesn't have the capacity to dissipate the fall dynamically, as a rope does, and there's a chance that it would break. If I were you (and I'm clearly not, I'm not a 9b+ -potentially 9c- climber, but a 6c climber, so what the hell do I know), I would tie a one-handed clove hitch to the closest quickdraw. That way, you would have redundant security with a dynamic element.
Really, I'm boring myself just writing it. You're clearly more experienced than me, and I understand that you were not expecting to fall from a good kneebar rest, but I just want to let this comment here in case someone finds it useful or whatever.
I was actually wondering about the same thing. Would be great to get an answer from an experienced climber :)
He had less then 4 inches of slack and he would fall in an arc the sling would not break would not be the most comfortable fall but not dangerous for the distance/type of climbing
@@gabplayspoker yeah you're probably right
Easy fix is to make the runner from a dynamic rope section. I do this for working my roof climbs. Falling on static, even with rope backup, is hard on the body.
So strong! So much fun to watch!
Thanks for the entertainment for the past couple of months, amazing climbing and videos, it feels like a waiting for the next season of a netflix show haha
Amazing as always
Congratulations, very strong!
I loved your Flatanger series! I’m sure you would also be great as a professional RUclipsr but it wouldn’t be as satisfying.
Amazing performance, very good qualitiy video.
Just awesome.
"Welcome my son, welcome to the machine"
I think you should hit your own notification bell. Them silens is no problem anymor.
Amazing! Just amazing!
So just subscribed and liked this awesome video! Lets go 9c Silence jejeje
so amazing!!!!
your videos help me a lot to improve my way of climb
don't imagine how
thak you bro
Finalement bravo Stefano 🎉❤
La tua stamina mi devasta. Sei magico
i will try it out tomorrow!!
👍 absolutely great climb! 🧐
What an amazing climb on such a long route
the length of this route is just outrageous.
Grats bro!! What a fight!
Clickin' subscribe and headin' straight to the crag to smash my project! +2 grades ftw!
I really enjoyed watching it. Good job!
The rope change is kinda dangerous, if the sling has so mach slag. If you would fall, you would get an strong non-dynamic impact and it could break the loop of your harness. Hard is Easy made a great video about this. So either reduce the slag in de sling or even better have a dynamic kinda sling/rope which would absorb the impact.
Congratulation it's a amazing video
Now this is quality! Congrats!!!!
Grande Stefano unicooo!🎉
What a great video!
This was amazing. Congrats on becoming a professional youtuber! Does it mean you are retiring as a professional climber? You just went to rockmaster... o.O Anyway, hit the bell, so now I want to climb 7c 🤣🤣🤣 Sei un mito!
This is BOSS... Just cool
Great ascent Stefano !
When you do the rope "change" though, is it that safe to have for only back up just a piece of sling? I mean, you seem to hold on the knee bar pretty well, but if you fall at this point, you'll shock load the sling by 50-100cm maybe ? without being on belay.
I just know that slings do not like very much shock loads...
Correct me if I'm wrong.
Bravo again for the climb
Those slings are probably ~22kN, unless it's already damaged it's easily strong enough
you are right. you should not risk shock loading a static system. your belay loop will break before the sling. the thing to note is that he is way below the anchor so he would probably be ok. i wouldn't test it on myself though
additionally many things in the body would break probably even before the sling
A factor 2 fall on a dynema sling can break it with an 80kg weight under test conditions. Stefano is probably safe in terms of not falling to the ground but with no dynamism in the system the fall into the harness would be extremely hard and very, very painful possibly causing damage to internal organs. So it’s not exactly “safe”….
I was thinking the same, the fall on that sling would probably hold but might break his back. Maybe a clove hitch or dynamic tether would be better
Grande che spettacolo 👏👏👏👏
It's a bit pitty there was no congrats on the end of the film, typical hugs, hi 5 and smiles. Great send!
great video!
How does this route compare to Move in terms of difficulty? The name seems a bit misleading because 'Hard' originally comes from the fact that it joined with 'Project Hard', not that it is necessarily a harder version of Move.
man from professional climber to professional youtuber, what a ride, so when are the raid shadow legends ads coming in? or is it raycons? no no no, nord vpn to keep the nordic theme, right?
Watch, how he clips the rope in 6:32. That is peak climbing in every aspect!
Keep it up you are a beast
is clipping to a long, what looks like, dyneema sling for when you are off belay really safe? like, of course a climber of your calibre isnt gonna fall on a rest and maybe its a head game thing but surely a screamer or some kind of energy absorber should be used instead as the shock load on a dyneema sling can create extremely high forces enough to even snap the sling
He's appears below the bolt it's clipped to and off to the side, so I think a fall would likely just result a jolt and swing, but nothing crazy harsh and really no chance of it breaking (assuming good condition, 20+kn sling)
Mammoth effort there dude 💪👏
loving it
that carabier in a harness thing will prevent you falling to the ground, but a fall with a static 'rope' like dynema will break your back. Maybe using a piece of rope?
It also could have snapped on a fall since it had some slack.
Guys there was barely any slack he would not of fell straight down he was climbing an overhang some force would of applied to the side and down it would of break the fall do you know what those slings are rated for?
@@gabplayspoker the point is not the overall rating in Kn, is the lack of any elasticity, he would go from falling to still in 0.0001 seconds that can really fuck your back up, we need the dynamicity of ropes to handle our falls.
And even tho it is 22kn+ rated, in a drop tower with a 80kg weight and a factor 2+ fall it can actually snap (citation needed, watched a video of this once), its not how they were designed to use
@@123amsterdan456 ? Factor 2 fall would be falling bellow your bellayer lol 😂
@@gabplayspoker I know it is not the case here, just a example how slings are strong but static tools
Grandissimo
Very inspiring!
You are awesome. Next time also change a shirt and shoes in the middle of the route 😂 Those must have been the longest 20 minutes. Very nice video, even for a professional RUclipsr 😁
Bel video, ma quello di due settimane fa era indubbiamente il migliore! 😂
This was so sick
During the rope switch he was clipped into a static sling, right? Wouldn't want to shock load that thing
More vids pls!
Brilliant
Bro was on the wall longer than my entire training session.
The way he screams in the crux is so similar to Adam 🤯
What happened to the prehistoric dude?
How long is that fricking climb!?
Its soooo long and it looks very hard! You are sure, thats "only" 9b? In Silence you lokks not bader...
yaayyyy! "professional youtuber"😂😂
grandísimo
Before you start a climb, do you go and place all the quickdraw's or is that someone else. And how do you get them up there?
In such overhanging climbs they usually stay in place. Very few persons are able to steal them anyway ;-)
@@cedricnicolas2662 That's cool. Cheers buddy
Sei un mostro
Me: Holy shit I can barely rest here
Stefano: Yes yes, 2 large peperoni Pizzas and one Marherita - is the garlic bread gratis?
After full uncut we realize how extremely long these routes are
Maybe "Move in Silence" has a better ring than move hard?? Awaiting jedi ondra's approval of course lol
Thanks Stefano . Congrats for the ascent and thanks again for the video. Maybe Adam should call the route "Move into Silence" now that "Project Hard" has become "Silence". Om
Shit, now Im not able to complain about wet holds anymore because Stefano just casually climbs wet 9b😢😢😂
Is the actual Move 9b/+ on your project list????
Professional 'tuber? Hopefully its all climbing content!