A blasting cabinet could have been helpful for the initial cleaning on the inside, then follow with acetone. But you got it done and that's what matters
Coming from an entirely different background - ultrasonic cleaner would make it pretty much new with regard to cleaning. I wonder if there is any downside?
I was taught too drill out end of cracks . Maybe because the metal was thin you knew it would melt the crack all the way through ? You might tells us or show us about crack repairs on thicker things!! On your giant cup with that three mile stick out how much gas must flow ? Common size for me #9 cup and 8 to12 cfh argon < 1/4" metal , and 10 to 15 chf < 1/4" aluminium .
Ive got a stainless steel muffler (Subaru Legacy GeNome) that I've spotted a large crack around where the edge of the exhaust hanger is welded. Obviously I wont be able to clean the underside of the material, but If I give the top a good clean up should it be decent enough to repair? Would I also have to purge it?
Repairing the crack is half the job! You have to address the reason why it cracked,mostly this will be vibration due to in sufficient bracketing.Otherwise it will just crack again.
I have a motorized bike gas tank that has a crack where the fitting of the peacock goes it's been like that for some time and I want it fixed do you know how much would it cost for someone to repair that
Half way through the clip, so far, but a comment on possible/probable reason(s) for the poor penetration would be good, thank you. The second thing is that way back in the dawn of time I had it drilled into me [see what I did there] to always drill the end(s) of the crack(s) to ensure the weld has a clean start and end, to prevent/reduce any chance of it continuing to develop past the weld. Would this still be a sound practice or would continuing the weld run past the apparent ends suffice?
TFS, got a question, i understand that if you leave your finger prints on an exhaust it'll cook the prints of your fingers on the part, i learned this when i touched my heatsink for my computer and didn't wipe it and let it cook my prints after i let the cpu warm up. LOL, nothing will get it off, but all i really used was water and rubbing alcohol.
1dickycat Aluminum is my favorite followed by titanium. Stainless is close to titanium (since they're similar to work with). This Fronius hood is really nice. The view is crystal clear and it's very light. I'm still getting used to auto-darkening hoods, but I dig this one. It's the Fazor 1000 plus model.
The Fabrication Series I was waiting for some exotic metal I never knew existed 😂 And that's good to know, a light weight auto dark hood is what I've been in the market for! Just weighing my options as for what to buy.
I agree with you welding old exhausts is horrible the filler rod wets in like shit an you can see sparks as small contaminants burn out as your welding , as a redseal welder with 3 pressure pwps including 10 which is stainless 6 inch an 2 inch . You got to work on your root bead profile , don’t take what I say harshly . Anyways great videos as always keep it up . Love your fabrication tips an tricks .
Ouch, root bead profile improvement and the "repair" starts looking like an all day sucker trying to get the junk outta the crack on a part that was never made right in the first place. The harsh part was you throwing your redseal in his face.
SnakePliscan2 yet I tell him to keep up the great work an agreed it was a difficult peice of shit to work with .... go pound sand bud I wouldn’t critique any persons work unless I’m qualified that’s why I shared that , but I’m glad your an attentive reader .....
.....goes to practice root bead profile so dude who knows all welding, but can't spell, doesn't critique again.. :( "agreed it was a difficult peice of shit to work with"
Tig welding is basically brazing at super high temps.. Your heating the base material and melting a stick into puddles just overlapping said puddle... EASY! I have brazed so much in HVAC copper, i bet i could do that TIG stuff easy, the "ACTUAL WELDING PART", but the metallurgy, and knowing materials, etc.. You lost me.
I didn't catch it either. Thanks for answering and I would have built a new one as well. We all know if its bolted on again the next week spot will rate its head sooner than later.
Thanks Justin, that was very informative.
A blasting cabinet could have been helpful for the initial cleaning on the inside, then follow with acetone. But you got it done and that's what matters
Coming from an entirely different background - ultrasonic cleaner would make it pretty much new with regard to cleaning. I wonder if there is any downside?
I was taught too drill out end of cracks . Maybe because the metal was thin you knew it would melt the crack all the way through ? You might tells us or show us about crack repairs on thicker things!! On your giant cup with that three mile stick out how much gas must flow ? Common size for me #9 cup and 8 to12 cfh argon < 1/4" metal , and 10 to 15 chf < 1/4" aluminium .
I believe that’s only for cast iron
You remind me of Eric the Car Guy, but with awesome welding/fab content...subbin'
Thanks for your video!
You should preheat the weld region before repair welding.
Ive got a stainless steel muffler (Subaru Legacy GeNome) that I've spotted a large crack around where the edge of the exhaust hanger is welded. Obviously I wont be able to clean the underside of the material, but If I give the top a good clean up should it be decent enough to repair? Would I also have to purge it?
Score another one for the invertig 221 😂😂 good video man!
I have an expensive stainless steel fry pan. It is cracked in two places. Is it a loss or repairable ? Opinion
I was hoping you would mention the most favorable ss tig wire to use for crack repair.
Repairing the crack is half the job! You have to address the reason why it cracked,mostly this will be vibration due to in sufficient bracketing.Otherwise it will just crack again.
I have a motorized bike gas tank that has a crack where the fitting of the peacock goes it's been like that for some time and I want it fixed do you know how much would it cost for someone to repair that
You could pressure wash the part first, that might help clean in the cracks. What series filler do you use on exhaust?
uhh. I'm not a welder and apparently you are but err.. pressure wash it?
Lime pressure wash with water to clean the cracks. Just an idea.
Stain Clean ESAB, or similar paste, not the best fit for cleaning contaminated weld?
Half way through the clip, so far, but a comment on possible/probable reason(s) for the poor penetration would be good, thank you.
The second thing is that way back in the dawn of time I had it drilled into me [see what I did there] to always drill the end(s) of the crack(s) to ensure the weld has a clean start and end, to prevent/reduce any chance of it continuing to develop past the weld. Would this still be a sound practice or would continuing the weld run past the apparent ends suffice?
GordoWG1 WG1 If you know where the cracks actually start and finish, it's a common practice. My solution was to weld the entire pie just to be sure.
TFS, got a question, i understand that if you leave your finger prints on an exhaust it'll cook the prints of your fingers on the part, i learned this when i touched my heatsink for my computer and didn't wipe it and let it cook my prints after i let the cpu warm up. LOL, nothing will get it off, but all i really used was water and rubbing alcohol.
Lime Brush it with something like a surface prep pad and bring it back to bright metal. Clean it well and dont touch it again.
The 3m pads like he used will clean it off. If it removes the weld color fingerprints are nothing.
we do not know if it is being stressed by the torque and movement of the motor it is attached to. and no amount of repair would be permanent.
Ed KE6BNL probably just the ton of heat coming from the turbo
Other great vid justin! 2 quick questions. 1,if stainless isn't your favorite to weld, then what is? Q #2, Thoughts on the fronius hood?
1dickycat Aluminum is my favorite followed by titanium. Stainless is close to titanium (since they're similar to work with). This Fronius hood is really nice. The view is crystal clear and it's very light. I'm still getting used to auto-darkening hoods, but I dig this one. It's the Fazor 1000 plus model.
The Fabrication Series I was waiting for some exotic metal I never knew existed 😂 And that's good to know, a light weight auto dark hood is what I've been in the market for! Just weighing my options as for what to buy.
So what is your favorite metal?
I agree with you welding old exhausts is horrible the filler rod wets in like shit an you can see sparks as small contaminants burn out as your welding , as a redseal welder with 3 pressure pwps including 10 which is stainless 6 inch an 2 inch . You got to work on your root bead profile , don’t take what I say harshly . Anyways great videos as always keep it up . Love your fabrication tips an tricks .
Ouch, root bead profile improvement and the "repair" starts looking like an all day sucker trying to get the junk outta the crack on a part that was never made right in the first place. The harsh part was you throwing your redseal in his face.
SnakePliscan2 yet I tell him to keep up the great work an agreed it was a difficult peice of shit to work with .... go pound sand bud I wouldn’t critique any persons work unless I’m qualified that’s why I shared that , but I’m glad your an attentive reader .....
.....goes to practice root bead profile so dude who knows all welding, but can't spell, doesn't critique again.. :(
"agreed it was a difficult peice of shit to work with"
boostismagic watches a video a week late talks shit over the internet
boostismagic are you sniffing glue bud all the words are spelt correctly.
Tig welding is basically brazing at super high temps.. Your heating the base material and melting a stick into puddles just overlapping said puddle... EASY!
I have brazed so much in HVAC copper, i bet i could do that TIG stuff easy, the "ACTUAL WELDING PART", but the metallurgy, and knowing materials, etc.. You lost me.
Give me one of those machines 😭
TFS
And if you stick weld it,you can forget all those steps, and have a stronger, better welds.🍻😂
Wow, I can weld better than that originally was lol
outlander330cc I taught my boys to weld at 10 and 12 and they could weld better than that way back then.
outlander330cc so can he lol
why didn't you drill out the ends of the cracks first.
Robert Combs Because we dont know where they end. That's why it was completely welded 360 degrees as mentioned.
ahhh okay I didn't catch that part
I didn't catch it either. Thanks for answering and I would have built a new one as well. We all know if its bolted on again the next week spot will rate its head sooner than later.