Thank you Sonia and Hugo for delivering such an interesting and useful topic. I love your content! Please keep on doing such a great work. May God bless you both.
Finding this channel and the commentary of Sonia and Hugo is simply wonderful!!! Not only are the facts very refreshing yet rewarding to someone like me. It is wonderful to hear (today) someone speak about what..." bespoke actually is"...today (in the modern age) as my Mother and Grandmother did about all bespoke craftwork they did...including within the Sartorial arts. They were stylest and creator in one for any client that found them... Because of our family influences on me, I still tailor and/or make all my own clothing, some of which is over 100 years old and still functionally useful. Every point made in this video was drummed into me from childhood, though my clothes are more of the folk traditions and of my Native American style, what suits I did have follows the descriptions that Hugo shared and Sonia so eloquently outlined. The Sartorial Arts and bespoke work across the guild crafts are coming back in a new (and wonderful way) with the current generation of many Artisan... If you could be so kind, I could not hear well the Frech term at 36:06 for seam allowance that Hugo shared. I would love to read more about that if I could have the proper spelling in French... Blessings for a great video, j
You both are absolute treasures. You have given me confidence to follow my sartorial dreams. So much so that I am currently learning how to sew. So that I can craft some pieces & modify clothes that don’t flow correctly or fit the way it should. Thanks again for the love and effort you both put forth. Xoxoxo
I studied in Naples years ago, but unfortunately, I had not the money at this time for a handmade suit. I bought there a second-hand tessuto from Zegna and this felt to me like the beginning of my sartorial adventure which is still going on. Thank you both for the enjoyable hour of conversation about style.
The devil is in the details. Great content again and nothing but respect for you Hugo but I always enjoy the episodes just that little bit more when Sonya is there with you. A power couple if ever there was one.
Another great interview form Hugo and Sonya. I really agree with the idea that many people become walking advertising boards and slavishly wear big brand names or labels emblazoned across the their clothes and accessories; and that the sartorially savvy will do the exact opposite, and the label containing any information is buried in the breast inside pocket. I thrift and search for vintage clothes and can not get more excited with I have to search for a tailor or makers label deep inside the jacket as I know it is possibly a well-made suit jacket, made with quality fabric......If it can be adjusted by a tailor to fit me, I'm buying it! Thank you/Merci to both of you. Tony
As always another truly interesting as well as informative sartorial talks video my thanks to you both for an outstanding job on breaking down the details and construction of a well-made jacket!
You didn't mention pattern matching - shoulder and even other places on very expensive jackets My bespoke jacket even has pattern-matching on the sleeves. Great video. Please do more!
Fantastic video! And I'm incredibly happy that Hugo emphasized that 'fit is everything' with a suit. I completely agree. My three most recent suits are very inexpensive bought from a department store. At a 50% discount, range from $150 - $300. It is all I could afford when I got them. However, I'm in excellent shape and I know enough what to tell the person doing the alterations what I wanted. Nothing major. Just how much to taper the waist of the jacket. The length of the sleeves and pants. Minor shoulder changes. I got very lucky. The 'tailor' was really good and gave me some tips. Even the salesperson working that department was really good as I had a fitting issue. Double lucky. As cheap as the suits are, I've gotten tremendous compliments when I wear them. The fit. The drape. They punch above their weight. And I still have them. Visually, I just wish they had wider lapels. They have that trendy thinness to them. But for what I use them for, it's fine. I bought a Zegna back in the late 1990s before they became mega-corporation. So I know good suits. Super comfortable. Quality. The fit. The fabric divine. I'm slowly re-building my wardrobe and looking forward to that quality, fit and style again. Like having the tailor's label on the inside of the jacket's inside pocket, it's not about how much you spend. But when someone knows and appreciates a great and well made product, especially in clothes, there's just no going back. How it feels and in turn, makes you feel. It raises your game. Thank you for these great educational and inspirational programs!
Thank you Hugo and Sonya on another interesting topic. I too am anti-logo and no one other than a 'cognoscenti' would know who made the clothing I am wearing just by looking at the shape and styling. I get a kick when a shop tailor asks me if I'm wearing a Huntsman suit or Corthay shoes because I respect these artisan's opinions more so than an ordinary stranger :-)
Fit & Style,,,,totally true,,,what a very interesting subject,,,with a lot of important details,,,as i said before,,,both of are the Avengers of the sartorial world))),,,thanks dear Hugo & Sonya,,,love to you from Cairo.
Great video! I have some bespoke suits which fit me wonderfully but in last year I've started to buy made to measure Cesare Attolini suits and I have to say they fit me as well as any bespoke suit I have or better. I have a friend who also bought mtm Attolini but says bespoke is still better for him so I think it's my build that allows me to fit right in to the mtm Attolini suits.
I could not complain with a closet full of Attolini suits. We've visited their sartoria in Fano---lot's of handmade operations and tailors on site working on different parts of the suit, so I understand your point completely (among the best ready-to-wear out there with the option for alterations). Cheers ! Hugo
Finally got to binge watch your episodes as of work commitments. Amazing content and love the way you and Sonya bounce of each other.. Looking forward for the good weather again and to go out with a lovely suit again . SLANJ IN Scottish. Cheers ...
A couple months ago I picked up my first 1930s Navy Burton Suit and I compared it to some of my bespoke suits. My first impression when I picked up my 30s suit is that I know it is industrially made and not a bespoke product but when I held it side by side with my bespoke suit I noticed that the stitch for the button holes on the 30s suit is thicker whereas my other suit is thinner. As it was my first 30s suit I never realized how heavy and broad the shoulders were. Like the padding felt good and high quality, even the fabric felt really nice despite being quite thick and heavy.
Thank you for your interesting comment my friend. I believe industrially made didn't mean the same in the 1930s than today. It probably meant handmade in a factory. Cheers, Hugo
Oxxford in the U.S. Yes, very good quality here! I have a made to measure suit and a couple sport coats, and several shirts. My favorite garments. The roll of the lapel!
Great video again, thank you both. You forgot to mention the alignment of patterns between seems on your jacket also speaks of the craftsman's attention to detail.
I like the discussion on show-off contrasting button holes. For those who understand, you don't need to show off to them. For those who don't know, they still won't notice or know the importance of well made suit. You see this being part of Yuki Inoui's work in Milan. That canvas on Hugo's jacket and the wadding though...MAGICAL!
Brilliant insights. And the inside of Hugo's jacket is beautiful! I see a lot of cheap jackets now that come with working cuff buttons. A sign of quality in ready to wear is a jacket that comes with a unfinished cuffs, and a jacket that comes with working cuff buttons is a poor sign. Pick stitching is on almost all bespoke English suits too, but they always do it in a way that it can hardly be seen. I've had to pull at the lapels to see it! To me, invisible pick stitching is the highest mark of quality.
Hi Matt, I'm sure you've had a lot of experience with different makers and you have a stellar point regarding the ideal situation being to receive a rtw jacket with unfinished cuffs which can be tailored after purchase. Thanks for your comment. We didn't know about almost all English jackets being pick stitched. Hugo and Sonya
My father gave me some of his Brioni wardrobe (and some Barberas too) when I entered Law School. I now use bespoke, but I definately agree that there are some outstanding brands doing suits-and certainly dont come cheap- that said, nothing comes close to working with someone face to face, choosing your fabric and talking about the styling. You get to enjoy a relationship and a process, not just a purchase.
Oh how I enoy your talks. The pictures and examples were helpful too. Hugo, you mentioned a few amazing handmade Italian designers that are awesome. Out of curiosity, how does Brunello Cucinelli rate in your book? I find them to be more on the casual side of clothing but I think they handmake all their clothes too.
22:55 I love the idea of the hidden label. If you do an image search for "bespoke jacket" you see lots of jackets with a big label inside to tell everyone it's a bespoke jacket. I even saw one that had the tailor's website address embroidered inside for all to see! 40:28 I was surprised to see that there was no lining inside the jacket, just a sort of "skeleton" where you could see the canvas. Is that normal, or is it something you only find in certain jackets?
Very common that an Italian bespoke sports jacket does not have lining. It keeps the jacket cool. But most important it allows you to see the craft and hand work.
Thank you very much for this informative video. My father have quite a few MTM from Zegna and Brioni, but I am going to ask him to try out some of the bespoke tailors that you introduced in your videos - they look simply stunning, including the ones on you two!
The story of the hidden label is related to one of the reasons I started to respect The Armoury by Mark Cho. They actually released a tote bag with the armoury logo on it and specifically reduced the price on it due to the fact that it's ultimately an advertisement for them.
Hello,Hugo and Sonya the guardians of bespoke tailoring thanks for pointing out the details that makes the difference,i like the new variation of the music theme.
Interesting that you touched on fabric labels in suits because they're basically the only labels I care to see. I like knowing where my cloth comes from and it's fun to occasionally see them change the label based on what bunch it's a part of
Just a little comment, I think the correct french term for "fabric allowance" is "relarge" and not "embu". Both are concerning extra fabric added at specifix spots of the garments. But contratywise to the "relarge" which is there to cope with extra pounds gained with "experience" as explained in this video, the "embu" is there to help the garment acquire a certain shape at very specific point. For example "embu" is added the back panel at the level of shoulder seam to help the garment climb over the shoulder blades. Another "famous" example is the "embu" added to the sleeve head wich combined with high armholes gives enables a wider range of mouvement.
Big fan of this channel. Although after watching a handful of videos. Makes me want throw out all my existing suits. Lol…. Please do an video on fabric mills featuring various materials from them if possible. Thank you. Love this channel
Hi Hugo and Sonia, I have previously seen how you talk about Spier and Mackay on your site and I was wondering how much of their newer full canvas Neapolitan suits and sports coat are handmade. Is it something you guys would recommend for someone who is looking to get something handmade but can't afford. Thank you very much in advance.
Question. I live in a tropical climate. I bought uncanvased (deconstructed suits)...In this episode you made it sound like I should have purchased fully canvased jackets. Can you please clear up my confusion and tell me which type of construction I should purchase given the fact that I live in a tropical climate. Many thanks in advance.
Dear Aaron, deconstructed jackets have little to no canvas ( sometimes a little around the upper back) and are a great choice for tropical climates. However, some extremely light fabrics (like tropical wool, less than 200gr) are too thin to be used without canvassing. Also deconstructed jackets are mainly sport jackets but rarely jackets for suits. Thus if you use suits, I advise you to use light fabrics (tropical wool, wool/linen/silk blends for example) of a weight around (or even just under) 200 gr, and canvassed only with chest pieces (to give the suit a minimum of structure). Hope it helps, Cheers, Hugo
Great video. Although I usually wear suits from Canali, Luigi Bianchi, Ermenegildo Zegna, Brando, Tagliatore, There is something different about wearing bespoke suits. Besides the perfect fitting to your body, It´s also about the experience and custom details you ask for.
Hugo that jacket is magnificent. I have one similar pattern and colour, what colour tie would you recommend? One to compliment the orange/brown stripe?
18:08 It is definitely as beautiful as the Hebrew language. Thank you very much Hugo and Sonia for all the interesting and beautiful information you share🤍.
I used to see the American fashion designer Bill Blass at the auctions in NYC. His jackets fit so well across the shoulders that you could tell they were bespoke.
In Austia, Knize does handmade RTW suits. They also require at least 2 Fittings (at least mine did). Sadly there isn`t much spotlight on Viennese tailoring compared to the big and famous satorial capitals of the world. But we have inexpensive high quality hungarian dress shoes to get console oursleves. haha
Dear Hugo and Sonya, I’m based in the Netherlands and looking to build a bespoke wardrobe. Do you guys know any bespoke ateliers in the Netherlands with good standing? Thanks for the reply!
true but there's huge variety in canvassing, Tom Ford p.ex. has 7 layers of that stuff, which is one of the reason his jackets look so good. A lot depends on the tailor too.
Dear Walter, we wrote an article on the subject here: www.parisiangentleman.com/blog/how-to-find-decent-and-affordable-tailoring-in-south-east-asia All our best! Hugo & Sonya
I believe that I acquired a Bespoke suit at our local thrift store. Inside it has Victory Holland & Sherry I took it to my tailor and had it fit me. The only problem I had was the arms of the jacket was to long and because of the surgeons cuffs The Tailor shaved off the end of the sleeve. Plus The jacket seems to long. I have pictures maybe if you have an email I can send them to you and you can critique how it looks on me. Plus I have a small protruding stomach that the Tailor loosened up abit.
Working buttons on a suit cuff are not necessarily an indicator of a hand made jacket. If for example you buy a sports Jacket from a Kiton boutique they will generally give you the option of working cuffs or fixed buttons. The jacket is hand made and the cuffs hand finished irrespective of the final detail. Some “factory” produced jackets have working cuffs. I think that this matter is over discussed really.
If you dont mind, would you give me a name in New York city to get my first Bespoke suit. I'm going soon and want to get measured for my first. And I love the channel...
At a cocktail party, for example, I would face other people and let my eye drift down to their lapel and observe if the jacket had s Milanese button hole on it. A dead giveaway!
If you want to see some good videos on how suits are fully made by hand, watch Rudolf Popradi's RUclips channel. He is a Montreal tailor trained in Europe.
So here I am. Wearing track suit pants I knocked off from somewhere and a tshirt I didn’t buy. Fitted underwear I definitely saw a lady about. ( underwear is not to be sneezed about) I’m really enjoying your dialogue.
Love the talks! But let's remember one thing...what happens when the suit comes off? Let's make sure to keep our bodies fit and healthy as well! I'd rather wear one healthy than one one dead.
Hugo and Sonya seem like nice enough people, and their efforts to try and get men to dress better deserve praise. But having watched 10 or 15 of their videos, I'm left with the feeling that his content is really geared to the top 1% or the French aristocracy. By the time you've taken their various recommendations into account, only the GDP of a small island country will get you to your destination. There are very few men who have enough money to dress like Hugo. Still, it's nice to dream.
Dear friend, we use high-end examples to explain the way suits are crafted. But our content addresses everyone, and certainly not only the super wealthy. It's like looking at a Ferrari, learning from it, while driving a normal car. All the best, Hugo
If you have a guy buy a well fitted suit off the rack, 99% of these self appointed suit experts would not be able to tell apart the suits until they would start microscopically examining details up close. These days we have multiple brands that make mass produced fit to measure suits that make absolutist beliefs about Bespoke or nothing very questionable.
Dear sir, we never self appointed ourselves as suits experts (although after 3 best-sellers books maybe we should). But I have a question though: Why can't you write the same comment while being kind and respectful of the work of others? Be well, Hugo
There is a famous Italian brand, apparently favoured by tech moguls and various celebrities that sells $4000 suits made from quite uninspiring fabrics with fused jacket interlinings. Another famous Italian textile manufacturer who sell their own clothing line at insanely high price points and most of their jackets have fused interlinings also. Beggars belief really.
Sonya is BACK babe...more beautiful than ever....Hugo nice watch...pure class....cheers from sunny Greece..
Cheers my friend from rainy Bourgogne! Best, Hugo
Thank you Sonia and Hugo for delivering such an interesting and useful topic. I love your content! Please keep on doing such a great work.
May God bless you both.
Many thanks Kevin for your encouraging message. God bless you too, Hugo & Sonya
Finding this channel and the commentary of Sonia and Hugo is simply wonderful!!!
Not only are the facts very refreshing yet rewarding to someone like me. It is wonderful to hear (today) someone speak about what..." bespoke actually is"...today (in the modern age) as my Mother and Grandmother did about all bespoke craftwork they did...including within the Sartorial arts. They were stylest and creator in one for any client that found them...
Because of our family influences on me, I still tailor and/or make all my own clothing, some of which is over 100 years old and still functionally useful. Every point made in this video was drummed into me from childhood, though my clothes are more of the folk traditions and of my Native American style, what suits I did have follows the descriptions that Hugo shared and Sonia so eloquently outlined. The Sartorial Arts and bespoke work across the guild crafts are coming back in a new (and wonderful way) with the current generation of many Artisan...
If you could be so kind, I could not hear well the Frech term at 36:06 for seam allowance that Hugo shared. I would love to read more about that if I could have the proper spelling in French...
Blessings for a great video,
j
Thank you so much Jay for sharing your family history. The term used in French is "Embu" (fabric allowance). All our best, Hugo & Sonya
Just when I think I know a lot, you always enlighten me deliver great insights. Thank you Sonia and Hugo
You are very welcome! All our best, Sonya & Hugo
Hello Hugo and Sonia excellent video you always deliver great show thank you Sonia and Hugo take care 🙏
Many thanks for your kind words my friend, Hugo
You both are absolute treasures. You have given me confidence to follow my sartorial dreams. So much so that I am currently learning how to sew. So that I can craft some pieces & modify clothes that don’t flow correctly or fit the way it should. Thanks again for the love and effort you both put forth. Xoxoxo
I studied in Naples years ago, but unfortunately, I had not the money at this time for a handmade suit. I bought there a second-hand tessuto from Zegna and this felt to me like the beginning of my sartorial adventure which is still going on. Thank you both for the enjoyable hour of conversation about style.
Thank you for sharing your experience Stefan. Cheers, Hugo
The devil is in the details. Great content again and nothing but respect for you Hugo but I always enjoy the episodes just that little bit more when Sonya is there with you. A power couple if ever there was one.
Thank you so much Gavin. And me too, I prefer when we co-host the show! Yours, Hugo & Sonya
Excellent discussion today. The part in the middle about discretion definitely landed with me.
Many thanks Henry. All our best, Sonya & Hugo
So very educational, as always, and a pleasure to watch. I never feel I've wasted a single minute watching your channel.
These are really kind words Bruce! Many thanks, Hugo & Sonya
Another great interview form Hugo and Sonya. I really agree with the idea that many people become walking advertising boards and slavishly wear big brand names or labels emblazoned across the their clothes and accessories; and that the sartorially savvy will do the exact opposite, and the label containing any information is buried in the breast inside pocket. I thrift and search for vintage clothes and can not get more excited with I have to search for a tailor or makers label deep inside the jacket as I know it is possibly a well-made suit jacket, made with quality fabric......If it can be adjusted by a tailor to fit me, I'm buying it!
Thank you/Merci to both of you.
Tony
Many thanks to you Tony. All the best, Sonya and Hugo
I'm a visual learner. It is really great seeing photos. Thank you, for pointing out the terms and showing on the jacket.
You're very welcome Andrew. Best wishes, Hugo
Great Video Hugo and Sonya! What a wonderful and informative education this is. Thank you for sharing!
With great pleasure Stef! Cheers, Sonya & Hugo
Details talk by themselves. Greetings from Bogotá, Colombia.
Gracias Andrés! Greetings from France, Hugo & Sonya
As always another truly interesting as well as informative sartorial talks video my thanks to you both for an outstanding job on breaking down the details and construction of a well-made jacket!
Thank you for your words of encouragement my friend. Hugo
Thank you so much for your wonderful content! Truly look forward to each new video and topic!
With great pleasure! Cheers, Sonya & Hugo
Another excellent episode. My wardrobe would be a mess without this channel, so merci Sonya and Hugo!
The pleasure is ours. Cheers, Sonya & Hugo
I really enjoy the information you two provide, but even more I enjoy your passion for this subject!
Thanks David, we appreciate your kind words. Cheers, Hugo & Sonya
You didn't mention pattern matching - shoulder and even other places on very expensive jackets My bespoke jacket even has pattern-matching on the sleeves. Great video. Please do more!
Pattern matching is a joy to see, although it's not always possible around the shoulder area. Great point though. Hugo
Fantastic video! And I'm incredibly happy that Hugo emphasized that 'fit is everything' with a suit. I completely agree.
My three most recent suits are very inexpensive bought from a department store. At a 50% discount, range from $150 - $300. It is all I could afford when I got them. However, I'm in excellent shape and I know enough what to tell the person doing the alterations what I wanted. Nothing major. Just how much to taper the waist of the jacket. The length of the sleeves and pants. Minor shoulder changes. I got very lucky. The 'tailor' was really good and gave me some tips. Even the salesperson working that department was really good as I had a fitting issue. Double lucky.
As cheap as the suits are, I've gotten tremendous compliments when I wear them. The fit. The drape. They punch above their weight. And I still have them. Visually, I just wish they had wider lapels. They have that trendy thinness to them. But for what I use them for, it's fine.
I bought a Zegna back in the late 1990s before they became mega-corporation. So I know good suits. Super comfortable. Quality. The fit. The fabric divine.
I'm slowly re-building my wardrobe and looking forward to that quality, fit and style again. Like having the tailor's label on the inside of the jacket's inside pocket, it's not about how much you spend. But when someone knows and appreciates a great and well made product, especially in clothes, there's just no going back. How it feels and in turn, makes you feel. It raises your game.
Thank you for these great educational and inspirational programs!
One of the Best Show,.Bravo !.....thank you....
You are very welcome my friend! Hugo
Thank you Hugo and Sonya on another interesting topic. I too am anti-logo and no one other than a 'cognoscenti' would know who made the clothing I am wearing just by looking at the shape and styling. I get a kick when a shop tailor asks me if I'm wearing a Huntsman suit or Corthay shoes because I respect these artisan's opinions more so than an ordinary stranger :-)
That's incredible, love it ! Hugo
Fit & Style,,,,totally true,,,what a very interesting subject,,,with a lot of important details,,,as i said before,,,both of are the Avengers of the sartorial world))),,,thanks dear Hugo & Sonya,,,love to you from Cairo.
The avengers, haha. As usual, thanks Nader ! Hugo
Great video! I have some bespoke suits which fit me wonderfully but in last year I've started to buy made to measure Cesare Attolini suits and I have to say they fit me as well as any bespoke suit I have or better. I have a friend who also bought mtm Attolini but says bespoke is still better for him so I think it's my build that allows me to fit right in to the mtm Attolini suits.
I could not complain with a closet full of Attolini suits. We've visited their sartoria in Fano---lot's of handmade operations and tailors on site working on different parts of the suit, so I understand your point completely (among the best ready-to-wear out there with the option for alterations). Cheers ! Hugo
Lovely to see you both looking so healthy and happy. Something a few folks took for granted a couple of years back!
Thank you for your kind words my friend! Cheers, Hugo
They are amazing!!
Finally got to binge watch your episodes as of work commitments. Amazing content and love the way you and Sonya bounce of each other..
Looking forward for the good weather again and to go out with a lovely suit again .
SLANJ IN Scottish. Cheers ...
Appreciate your enthusiasm, David. Thanks a lot for watching. Hugo
Simply charming - I love to listen to both of them speak.
Many thanks John for your kind and encouraging words. Cheers, Hugo & Sonya
Absolutely love this! Keep up the great work, and happy valentines!👍😊
Many thanks Clive! Cheers, Hugo & Sonya
A couple months ago I picked up my first 1930s Navy Burton Suit and I compared it to some of my bespoke suits. My first impression when I picked up my 30s suit is that I know it is industrially made and not a bespoke product but when I held it side by side with my bespoke suit I noticed that the stitch for the button holes on the 30s suit is thicker whereas my other suit is thinner. As it was my first 30s suit I never realized how heavy and broad the shoulders were. Like the padding felt good and high quality, even the fabric felt really nice despite being quite thick and heavy.
Thank you for your interesting comment my friend. I believe industrially made didn't mean the same in the 1930s than today. It probably meant handmade in a factory. Cheers, Hugo
Oxxford in the U.S. Yes, very good quality here! I have a made to measure suit and a couple sport coats, and several shirts. My favorite garments. The roll of the lapel!
Dear Paul, Oxxford is probably the best manufacturer of this type of garments in the USA. All the best, Hugo
Great video again, thank you both. You forgot to mention the alignment of patterns between seems on your jacket also speaks of the craftsman's attention to detail.
There are different schools to pattern alignment. You're right, it would be a good subject to address. Thanks, Hugo
I recently purchased a Isaia sport coat, and I love it.
It's for sure a good garment. Best, Hugo
Good afternoon..... happy valentine's day.....great talk between 2 of the best of the best...Sonya and Hugo...CHEERS!!!!!!!!!
Cheers Kenneth! All our best, Hugo
I like the discussion on show-off contrasting button holes. For those who understand, you don't need to show off to them. For those who don't know, they still won't notice or know the importance of well made suit. You see this being part of Yuki Inoui's work in Milan. That canvas on Hugo's jacket and the wadding though...MAGICAL!
Thank you Sam. All my best, Hugo
The two beautiful jackets you are each wearing in this video speak for themselves. They are the elegant, silent partners in the presentation.
Beautifully stated and much appreciated. Hugo and Sonya
Beautiful Jacket Sir
Merci Jazib! Hugo
Brilliant insights. And the inside of Hugo's jacket is beautiful!
I see a lot of cheap jackets now that come with working cuff buttons. A sign of quality in ready to wear is a jacket that comes with a unfinished cuffs, and a jacket that comes with working cuff buttons is a poor sign.
Pick stitching is on almost all bespoke English suits too, but they always do it in a way that it can hardly be seen. I've had to pull at the lapels to see it! To me, invisible pick stitching is the highest mark of quality.
Hi Matt, I'm sure you've had a lot of experience with different makers and you have a stellar point regarding the ideal situation being to receive a rtw jacket with unfinished cuffs which can be tailored after purchase. Thanks for your comment. We didn't know about almost all English jackets being pick stitched. Hugo and Sonya
My father gave me some of his Brioni wardrobe (and some Barberas too) when I entered Law School. I now use bespoke, but I definately agree that there are some outstanding brands doing suits-and certainly dont come cheap- that said, nothing comes close to working with someone face to face, choosing your fabric and talking about the styling. You get to enjoy a relationship and a process, not just a purchase.
I cannot agree more dear Aaron, all my best, Hugo
Oh how I enoy your talks. The pictures and examples were helpful too. Hugo, you mentioned a few amazing handmade Italian designers that are awesome. Out of curiosity, how does Brunello Cucinelli rate in your book? I find them to be more on the casual side of clothing but I think they handmake all their clothes too.
22:55 I love the idea of the hidden label. If you do an image search for "bespoke jacket" you see lots of jackets with a big label inside to tell everyone it's a bespoke jacket. I even saw one that had the tailor's website address embroidered inside for all to see!
40:28 I was surprised to see that there was no lining inside the jacket, just a sort of "skeleton" where you could see the canvas. Is that normal, or is it something you only find in certain jackets?
Very common that an Italian bespoke sports jacket does not have lining. It keeps the jacket cool. But most important it allows you to see the craft and hand work.
beautiful jacket
Many thanks Michael! Hugo
Great video !
Thank you very much for this informative video.
My father have quite a few MTM from Zegna and Brioni, but I am going to ask him to try out some of the bespoke tailors that you introduced in your videos - they look simply stunning, including the ones on you two!
Cheers to you and your father ! Hugo and Sonya
The story of the hidden label is related to one of the reasons I started to respect The Armoury by Mark Cho. They actually released a tote bag with the armoury logo on it and specifically reduced the price on it due to the fact that it's ultimately an advertisement for them.
That's a nice story. Mark is a gentleman. Cheers, Hugo
Learned something again, thank you!
You are very welcome Davide. Cheers, Hugo
Hello,Hugo and Sonya the guardians of bespoke tailoring thanks for pointing out the details that makes the difference,i like the new variation of the music theme.
Many thanks Maestro! Cheers, Hugo & Sonya
I have learned so much from your brilliant videos. I have a small budget but always dress smart and am proud to wear a suit.
Interesting that you touched on fabric labels in suits because they're basically the only labels I care to see. I like knowing where my cloth comes from and it's fun to occasionally see them change the label based on what bunch it's a part of
It is a perspective that makes sense; I often wish fabric brand and composition information were included in my suits. Hugo
Just a little comment, I think the correct french term for "fabric allowance" is "relarge" and not "embu". Both are concerning extra fabric added at specifix spots of the garments. But contratywise to the "relarge" which is there to cope with extra pounds gained with "experience" as explained in this video, the "embu" is there to help the garment acquire a certain shape at very specific point. For example "embu" is added the back panel at the level of shoulder seam to help the garment climb over the shoulder blades. Another "famous" example is the "embu" added to the sleeve head wich combined with high armholes gives enables a wider range of mouvement.
Merci Florian pour ces précieuses précisions. Amicalement, Hugo
Big fan of this channel. Although after watching a handful of videos. Makes me want throw out all my existing suits. Lol…. Please do an video on fabric mills featuring various materials from them if possible. Thank you. Love this channel
You propose a wonderful idea for a talk. Thanks for watching and cheers ! Hugo and Sonya
thanks for this video. I resell jackets, suits and this is info I needed
Excited for this one
We hope you'll like it! Best, Hugo & Sonya
@SARTORIAL TALKS it was superb as always, I get big tips following your dress advice!
Great content, perfect points! We appreciate your knowledge!
Very much appreciated Dan ! Hugo
Hi Hugo and Sonia,
I have previously seen how you talk about Spier and Mackay on your site and I was wondering how much of their newer full canvas Neapolitan suits and sports coat are handmade. Is it something you guys would recommend for someone who is looking to get something handmade but can't afford.
Thank you very much in advance.
Dear Kyle S&M is excellent value (for the price). But in that price bracket you cannot expect handmade garments. All my best, Hugo
Are there any specific ready to wear or made to measure companies that make handmade jackets that you would recommend that are less expensive?
Perfect without glasses you both… at last…you both look great… Nice vidéo.
Merci Cyrille. Mais sans lunettes je suis très myope ! Amicalement, Hugo
Question. I live in a tropical climate. I bought uncanvased (deconstructed suits)...In this episode you made it sound like I should have purchased fully canvased jackets. Can you please clear up my confusion and tell me which type of construction I should purchase given the fact that I live in a tropical climate. Many thanks in advance.
Dear Aaron, deconstructed jackets have little to no canvas ( sometimes a little around the upper back) and are a great choice for tropical climates. However, some extremely light fabrics (like tropical wool, less than 200gr) are too thin to be used without canvassing. Also deconstructed jackets are mainly sport jackets but rarely jackets for suits. Thus if you use suits, I advise you to use light fabrics (tropical wool, wool/linen/silk blends for example) of a weight around (or even just under) 200 gr, and canvassed only with chest pieces (to give the suit a minimum of structure). Hope it helps, Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS thank you so much!
Hugh U and Sonya are looking great in suits . Nice pair
Thanks for that ! Hugo (and Sonya)
Great video. Although I usually wear suits from Canali, Luigi Bianchi, Ermenegildo Zegna, Brando, Tagliatore, There is something different about wearing bespoke suits. Besides the perfect fitting to your body, It´s also about the experience and custom details you ask for.
I totally agree with you Roberto. Many thanks, Hugo
Comme toujours hyper intéressant et inspirant. Bravo à vous deux, vous êtes exceptionnels et tellement classe. Complètement rafraîchissant. Bravo 👏 👔
Merci énormément, Richard ! Hugo & Sonya
Perfect for a student on a tight budget like me who likes to shop vintage!
Excellent dear Vercingetorix (!!). Cheers, Hugo & Sonya
Hugo that jacket is magnificent. I have one similar pattern and colour, what colour tie would you recommend? One to compliment the orange/brown stripe?
Hi Katy and thanks, You can extract a color from the jacket and wear it as a solid tie and it should work well in our opinion. Cheers ! Hugo and Sonya
Are allowances ever added to bespoke shirts?
Not that I know. The only things you can play with are the darts at the back. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you
merci de nous inspirer.
Avec plaisir Evan ! Hugo & Sonya
18:08 It is definitely as beautiful as the Hebrew language.
Thank you very much Hugo and Sonia for all the interesting and beautiful information you share🤍.
Gorgeous jacket you are wearing Hugo by the way !!!
Thanks a lot RC. Hugo
48:50 that's is so true, I sow perfect jackets but with null style and it's so sad for the Taylor who made it.
Appreciate your confirmation and feedback. Hugo
I used to see the American fashion designer Bill Blass at the auctions in NYC. His jackets fit so well across the shoulders that you could tell they were bespoke.
BB is a fantastic name to drop in here. Thank you ! Hugo
In Austia, Knize does handmade RTW suits. They also require at least 2 Fittings (at least mine did). Sadly there isn`t much spotlight on Viennese tailoring compared to the big and famous satorial capitals of the world. But we have inexpensive high quality hungarian dress shoes to get console oursleves. haha
What about Brunello Cuccinelli?
Nice company Chuck. More on the woman and the casual side, but beautiful work and style. Cheers, Hugo
44:33 - what’s a high harm hole? 😉
Dear Hugo and Sonya,
I’m based in the Netherlands and looking to build a bespoke wardrobe. Do you guys know any bespoke ateliers in the Netherlands with good standing?
Thanks for the reply!
Ah Hugo, the fabric of your jacket is "to die for" for guys our age and our resulting complexion. WOW!
I agree Robert, it's from the great cloth company Draper's in Bologna. Cheers, Hugo
true but there's huge variety in canvassing, Tom Ford p.ex. has 7 layers of that stuff, which is one of the reason his jackets look so good. A lot depends on the tailor too.
What do you think of Asian (Hong Kong, Thailand, etc) handmade suites?
Dear Walter, we wrote an article on the subject here: www.parisiangentleman.com/blog/how-to-find-decent-and-affordable-tailoring-in-south-east-asia
All our best! Hugo & Sonya
I believe that I acquired a Bespoke suit at our local thrift store. Inside it has Victory Holland & Sherry I took it to my tailor and had it fit me. The only problem I had was the arms of the jacket was to long and because of the surgeons cuffs The Tailor shaved off the end of the sleeve. Plus The jacket seems to long. I have pictures maybe if you have an email I can send them to you and you can critique how it looks on me. Plus I have a small protruding stomach that the Tailor loosened up abit.
Thanks my friends for a very interesting and informative video - you're the best!
Not sure we are the best, but we surely do our best dear Nick! Hugo & Sonya
So handmade and bespoke are different?
great commentary, but you need a darker background for contrast
Thanks, we're experimenting with a blue background now. Cheers ! Hugo
The more I watch your videos the more I am confident my tailor really knows his shit
That's great Dimitar! Cheers, Hugo
Working buttons on a suit cuff are not necessarily an indicator of a hand made jacket. If for example you buy a sports Jacket from a Kiton boutique they will generally give you the option of working cuffs or fixed buttons. The jacket is hand made and the cuffs hand finished irrespective of the final detail. Some “factory” produced jackets have working cuffs. I think that this matter is over discussed really.
Perhaps over-discussed but awareness is always nice. Excellent Kiton example you cited. Thanks for the reply. Hugo
If you dont mind, would you give me a name in New York city to get my first Bespoke suit. I'm going soon and want to get measured for my first.
And I love the channel...
Dear friend, send me an email at hugo@parisiangentleman.fr
At a cocktail party, for example, I would face other people and let my eye drift down to their lapel and observe if the jacket had s Milanese button hole on it. A dead giveaway!
Ha, you have the mind of a tailor ! Although some non-Milanese handmade lapel buttonholes also can be beautiful. ~Sonya & Hugo
The World needs an ASMR video from Sonya. Please make this happen.
That would be a pleasure to do, but I fear it would come across as pompous, haha. Cheers ! Sonya
Here in the United States we have Oxxford Clothes which are entirely handmade. They’ve been around since 1916.
Le canvas, la toile tailleur c'est la skelette, le chassis de la veste..🤗 👍🏾
Nice
Appreciate the reply ! ~Sonya
Michael Jordan in basketball, Bruce Lee in martial arts and Hugo (and Sonya) in classic elegant clothing All the best to you and your family:)
😂😂 that maybe be an overstatement, but thanks a lot ! Cheers, Hugo
Guys amazing video but you need more wide range microphones not the liner narrow one's you are currently using
I think we've refined the sound at this point. Cheers, Hugo
If you want to see some good videos on how suits are fully made by hand, watch Rudolf Popradi's RUclips channel. He is a Montreal tailor trained in Europe.
Isaia and Kiton are my two best in my closet.
Too good choices for sure. Cheers, Hugo
So here I am. Wearing track suit pants I knocked off from somewhere and a tshirt I didn’t buy.
Fitted underwear I definitely saw a lady about. ( underwear is not to be sneezed about)
I’m really enjoying your dialogue.
Thanks Jennifer (not sure I understand your point about underwear though). Cheers, Hugo
Love the talks! But let's remember one thing...what happens when the suit comes off? Let's make sure to keep our bodies fit and healthy as well! I'd rather wear one healthy than one one dead.
i dont mind if a AI robot makes my jacket, as along as it fits.
🌼😊🌸
Merci ! Hugo & Sonya
Hugo and Sonya seem like nice enough people, and their efforts to try and get men to dress better deserve praise. But having watched 10 or 15 of their videos, I'm left with the feeling that his content is really geared to the top 1% or the French aristocracy. By the time you've taken their various recommendations into account, only the GDP of a small island country will get you to your destination. There are very few men who have enough money to dress like Hugo. Still, it's nice to dream.
Dear friend, we use high-end examples to explain the way suits are crafted. But our content addresses everyone, and certainly not only the super wealthy. It's like looking at a Ferrari, learning from it, while driving a normal car. All the best, Hugo
If you have a guy buy a well fitted suit off the rack, 99% of these self appointed suit experts would not be able to tell apart the suits until they would start microscopically examining details up close. These days we have multiple brands that make mass produced fit to measure suits that make absolutist beliefs about Bespoke or nothing very questionable.
Dear sir, we never self appointed ourselves as suits experts (although after 3 best-sellers books maybe we should). But I have a question though: Why can't you write the same comment while being kind and respectful of the work of others? Be well, Hugo
Emma Willis out of Gloucester. She does beautiful shirts and some delicious robes entirely by hand, but I don't think she makes suits.
Dear David, we know the work of Emma Willis. She's a shirtmaker. All our best wishes, Hugo & Sonya
There is a famous Italian brand, apparently favoured by tech moguls and various celebrities that sells $4000 suits made from quite uninspiring fabrics with fused jacket interlinings. Another famous Italian textile manufacturer who sell their own clothing line at insanely high price points and most of their jackets have fused interlinings also. Beggars belief really.
Pertinent points and its the price one pays for not understanding what one is purchasing. Thanks for spreading the word. Hugo
I love it great topic I hate to advertise with clothing I refuse to wear clothing with the name of the manufacturer
Thanks and bravo George ! Hugo
Maybe one day you can do suit brands for women?
Who knows what the future holds---thanks for the vote of confidence ! Sonya and Hugo