The proper way to loosen that big hub bolt is to pop out the center cap from the wheel and loosen the bolt with a breaker bar BEFORE you even lift the tire off of the ground. At the end of the job, tighten the bolt snug, put the wheel back on, drop the car and then tighten fully.
Thank you for making this awesome video ,. Nice and clear instructions (,unlike a lot of videos on here) just what I needed 🙂......if you DO remove the whole hub assembly undo the large centre bolt before you even lift the wheel off the ground to keep the disc etc still and if you need to disconnect the speed sensor pop the bottom section of the back seat out of the car (just clips in) and disconnect the multi plug under there and carefully feed the wire out through the hole in the chassis , this is easier than trying to remove the hub end of the sensor that gets brittle and tends to break 🙂
Thanks alot! This helps me save alot of money I have been spending for the garage to change my rear bearings. They charged me $700 each bearing. I got the removal tool that you have. Thanks and good work!
Hey PB, I am a bit confused. I thought the bearing is pressed into the brake disc for the old B5's? Is this different here because of the year of your car?
It could be. I’m not sure if the arrangement is different on older B5s. Mine is a facelift car, 99.5, I thought all the quattros were similar though. Maybe the FWD cars have the different setup?
There's kits on Amazon that have great reviews that cost 1/3rd the price of the ECS Tuning kit, but to order one of those I need to know the proper inside diameter of the cup, and the proper diameter of the OEM bearing.
Does anyone know how to pull bearing down? I'm using the same method and probably using bigger power, but the bearing is stucked. Have tried flame bit, but I worry about ABS sensor. Do you recommend some trick or bigger power?
Make sure you’re not hung up on the little lip in the back with your puller. Other than that if you can’t get it out with a puller like this you may need to remove the upright and put it in a hydraulic press.
Hey PB - can a slide hammer be used with a bearing extractor or does it have to be the press you used? I have been trying a slide hammer but I can’t even tell if its moved
Been looking at this Schwaben kit, although I run an A6 c5 quattro, not an A4. Do you think the kit will work on mine? I've emailed ECS but no reply. I know the suspension at the rear is different from b5 to c5 but i can't see the bearing or other hardware being different???? Anybody?
@@PBGarage I've already ordered something similar, maybe that will do it. The bearings on the a4 and A6 quattros are identical in size, and being able to remove and replace the hubs without a press appeals to me, might just order it.....
Shoot you know what that's a good question I don't remember. I had to use like a 1-5/8" open end wrench or something like that, but I honestly don't recall.
You’re not missing anything, you can definitely do it that way too, but if it’s as tight as the bolts I’ve come across you’re just going to end up rolling the car or spinning the wheel. So you end up either needing a helper to stomp on the brakes anyway and hope you don’t snap your tool, or use heat (like I did). Little bit of heat and it spun right out, didn’t even need to hold the hub.
@@PBGarage "...you’re just going to end up rolling the car or spinning the wheel." OMG! Ever heard of a parking brake, or putting the car in gear or in park?
Anyone know the size of the Axel hex bolt, shown at the beginning of the video. I think maybe it’s 17mm. I know it’s bigger than 13mm because the largest hex I have is 13mm and it’s too small.
You shoud change the title. This does not apply to regular A4 B5 Audi but "only for quatro models". Non quatro models have two bearings, one inner, and one outer which is inside the brake disk. Totaly different procedure. Ok video though, music is a little rough on the ears but thanks anyways.
I have been getting cheap Centric bearings from Rockauto. When you’re pressing the hub back in don’t force it, as soon as it bottoms out quit. It’s easy to overtighten it and the balls will actually dent the races and over time get super crunchy.
Don't forget to mention that you should grease the thrust bolt. There's some serious friction and torque on that bolt. And I'm pretty sure the axle bolt should be replaced with a new one every time its removed as its a stretch torque spec. 190ftlbs and an additional 180 degrees ie. Torque to yield. Good video! Keep them coming!
Are you insane? Greasing threaded fasteners results in false (low) torque readings and broken bolts. Also, the bolt RELIES on the friction to keep itself "locked".
The proper way to loosen that big hub bolt is to pop out the center cap from the wheel and loosen the bolt with a breaker bar BEFORE you even lift the tire off of the ground. At the end of the job, tighten the bolt snug, put the wheel back on, drop the car and then tighten fully.
Thanks for doing this. I had to use some heat to get my bearing to move.
Bearings just started humming will definitely use this, appreciate it man
No prob glad it’s useful!
Thank you for making this awesome video ,. Nice and clear instructions (,unlike a lot of videos on here) just what I needed 🙂......if you DO remove the whole hub assembly undo the large centre bolt before you even lift the wheel off the ground to keep the disc etc still and if you need to disconnect the speed sensor pop the bottom section of the back seat out of the car (just clips in) and disconnect the multi plug under there and carefully feed the wire out through the hole in the chassis , this is easier than trying to remove the hub end of the sensor that gets brittle and tends to break 🙂
Yeah this is good advice, the sensor end is usually not really removable without destroying it.
Great tutorial. Been pondering how to perform the job, and you’ve answered all my concerns/questions.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks alot! This helps me save alot of money I have been spending for the garage to change my rear bearings. They charged me $700 each bearing. I got the removal tool that you have. Thanks and good work!
Best video how to on this subject I’ve seen 👍🏻
Appreciate the kind words thanks for watching!
Best one on RUclips so far. Thanks!
For further insight, it's worth reading the comments and replies. Subscribed 👍
Thanks for subscribing! Glad you enjoyed the video!
dude if you didn't make this video I'd be so lost appreciate it.
Happy to help!
Can you drop a link for which kit you got exactly from ECS? Everything is saying that their kits are for the b6 and b7
www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/audi-quattro-rear-wheel-bearing-service-kit/000576sch01a/
thank you very much!
Glad we could help!
Hey PB, I am a bit confused. I thought the bearing is pressed into the brake disc for the old B5's? Is this different here because of the year of your car?
It could be. I’m not sure if the arrangement is different on older B5s. Mine is a facelift car, 99.5, I thought all the quattros were similar though. Maybe the FWD cars have the different setup?
There's kits on Amazon that have great reviews that cost 1/3rd the price of the ECS Tuning kit, but to order one of those I need to know the proper inside diameter of the cup, and the proper diameter of the OEM bearing.
Don't know off the top of my head, but I'm sure someone out there on the form has an answer.
Does anyone know how to pull bearing down? I'm using the same method and probably using bigger power, but the bearing is stucked. Have tried flame bit, but I worry about ABS sensor. Do you recommend some trick or bigger power?
Make sure you’re not hung up on the little lip in the back with your puller. Other than that if you can’t get it out with a puller like this you may need to remove the upright and put it in a hydraulic press.
Hey PB - can a slide hammer be used with a bearing extractor or does it have to be the press you used? I have been trying a slide hammer but I can’t even tell if its moved
I’ve never tried with a slide hammer but make sure you’re not grabbing the lip of the hub on the back side of the bearing when you’re hammering.
Been looking at this Schwaben kit, although I run an A6 c5 quattro, not an A4. Do you think the kit will work on mine? I've emailed ECS but no reply. I know the suspension at the rear is different from b5 to c5 but i can't see the bearing or other hardware being different????
Anybody?
ECS Has a more comprehensive kit listed for the C5 chassis:
www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/wheel-bearing-replacement-kit-24-pieces/pat-1501/
@@PBGarage I've already ordered something similar, maybe that will do it. The bearings on the a4 and A6 quattros are identical in size, and being able to remove and replace the hubs without a press appeals to me, might just order it.....
What is the link to that bearing pulling tool ?
www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/audi-quattro-rear-wheel-bearing-service-kit/000576sch01a/
What size were the wrenches you used? 32mm and ??
Shoot you know what that's a good question I don't remember. I had to use like a 1-5/8" open end wrench or something like that, but I honestly don't recall.
Why not just loosen the axle bolt when the car is on the ground on all four tyres? Am I missing something?
You’re not missing anything, you can definitely do it that way too, but if it’s as tight as the bolts I’ve come across you’re just going to end up rolling the car or spinning the wheel. So you end up either needing a helper to stomp on the brakes anyway and hope you don’t snap your tool, or use heat (like I did). Little bit of heat and it spun right out, didn’t even need to hold the hub.
@@PBGarage "...you’re just going to end up rolling the car or spinning the wheel."
OMG! Ever heard of a parking brake, or putting the car in gear or in park?
You could have at least tell us which size cup and plate you used so people can diy the tools needed.
Hi do you have a manufacturer and part number for wheel bearing service kit?
Check out the description, the part number is listed there for the kit.
Anyone know the size of the Axel hex bolt, shown at the beginning of the video. I think maybe it’s 17mm. I know it’s bigger than 13mm because the largest hex I have is 13mm and it’s too small.
17mm is the OEM size, but by now many bolts have been replaced on these cars, and some aftermarket sizes vary.
You shoud change the title. This does not apply to regular A4 B5 Audi but "only for quatro models". Non quatro models have two bearings, one inner, and one outer which is inside the brake disk. Totaly different procedure. Ok video though, music is a little rough on the ears but thanks anyways.
Yeah good call I hadn’t thought of that
What bearing are you using. Im having to change mine out like every other year. Fml
I have been getting cheap Centric bearings from Rockauto. When you’re pressing the hub back in don’t force it, as soon as it bottoms out quit. It’s easy to overtighten it and the balls will actually dent the races and over time get super crunchy.
@rsc971 Schwaben, available from ECS Tuning.
Can you send the link to the bearing you used? Thanks!
What happens if you disconnect the speed sensor?
If your ABS still works, then it won’t work anymore. If you have a car that has traction control, it won’t work anymore either.
Link to the removal kit please
www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/audi-quattro-rear-wheel-bearing-service-kit/000576sch01a/
any update on b8 rear seats in b7 :)?
We filmed it, just editing for upload!
Can’t wait :)
What kit is this?
Schwaben wheel bearing replacement kit available on ECS
Don't forget to mention that you should grease the thrust bolt. There's some serious friction and torque on that bolt. And I'm pretty sure the axle bolt should be replaced with a new one every time its removed as its a stretch torque spec. 190ftlbs and an additional 180 degrees ie. Torque to yield. Good video! Keep them coming!
Yeah! Grease that thrust bolt!
Nooooo not 190. It's 140 plus 180 degree turn up front back is less.
Are you insane? Greasing threaded fasteners results in false (low) torque readings and broken bolts. Also, the bolt RELIES on the friction to keep itself "locked".
@@PBGarage No. You never should do that. Ever.