Retired now and was in the building trade al my working life, this guy really knows his stuff and knows how to explain the solution perfectly, well done 👍
Another great video pal 👍 really like the way you take the time to explain stuff, I’ve learned so much over the last few weeks after I came across the channel 😁 excellent looking forward to the next one.
Thx for taking the time to explain the process and why, your videos are a step above the rest in that regard, brickwork always looks so clean and tidy and prepared for the next step...thankyou
Great work Izzy👌 The explanations of how to build e.g. cavity trays, weep holes, are very interesting. Learning lots and enjoying the content at the same time👊👏
Always look forward to seeing your uploads, always full of information and banter 👌 keep up the good work and keep the videos coming, wasn’t a long video 👌😎👍
I needed you as a boss lmao, recently I was a brick masonry helper. Was making $60 USD an hour. Quit after the first day as I was told to shut up after I asked a couple questions which they knew I was new, I have a construction background but mainly in roofing and ask for safety reasons. Then the breaking point was being up 45ft on a bent up scaffold with no harnesses too use. There was people crawling on the skylift crane when they raised brick up and they also hit the scaffolding 3 times with the skylift crane. I liked the hard work and money but I couldn't work with an unsafe crew. Keep it up man, you all are doing great work. Keep posting videos as brick laying is a necessity. Soon I'm going to start building pizza ovens with my dad to start making money. Hope it works out, going to use clay firebrick and refractory cement etc. Hope it works out lol
Thanks so much mate appreciate it💪 bloody hell, sounds very dodgy mate, probably best you left. Nothing is worth injuring yourself over Sounds like a good plan mate, all the best
Hate coming off other peoples work, happemed to me did this except it was me who put the pig in. Footing was all over the place, had block flat, sailor courses and bits of roofing tile to get it level and had three or four steps in the concreteso couldnt get far in any one step. Thought id got it pretty level, bubble was within a fraction off the center, trouble is the wall was long as a monday so by the end of it, there was a 30mm descrepency at the end. Needless to say i do things a bit different now, and i have a good whinge if the footings out before i start! Another tip for lintel height, build those 3 courses immediately after lintel height about 5-10mm high, saves so much heartache after and you can get it back down over the next 4 courses with nobody the wiser. Another lesson learned after discovering the brick we were using for soldiers turned out 5mm longer than the facings. Doesnt sound much but it hurt the aesthetic a bit.
Well done Izzy, problems are the spice of life and after we've overcome them we are wiser and have more experience to pull on. I think that was the best option ie knock the offenders down and run it through as you did. Happened to me last year and I spent half a day taking down and re building it back up, I was a bit behind afterwards but happy and could sleep at night hahaha👍
Thanks Chris mate, appreciate that! Tell you what, honestly.. probably been one of the most challenging jobs I've ever done. Just not knowing what's wrong or what's right. Really having to rely on my own experience and knowledge to fix/overcome issues, but we got there in the end! Some things are forgivable, but as you said...gotta be able to sleep at night 😂 Hope your well mate and have a brilliant weekend in the sun whatever your doing 💪
Charlie spreading mortar and pointing thats a great start for him. When he's mastered that then onto laying bricks to a line ? Job coming on thats for sure 👍👍
A lovely pig ! ……NOT ! They really mess with your head and what makes it worse is it’s somebody else’s shit you have to get over ! The laser is an absolute god send in these situations . . Nice,y done as ever Izzy 👏🏽👏🏽👌🏼🧱👍🏼
Cheers mate! That's what did my head in...cos the Lazer was saying level with some of my work and his...but he was a course out...hence why I had to bring everything round in one go to see it actually working. Never used a Lazer so much though 😂😂 Appreciate it buddy!
Appreciate the time taken for the detailed explanation of the pig. I'd never heard of it before today. At what height difference does it become a pig and not something you can make up with a thicker bed? With the lintel, if you just had a single skin block wall on which the roof joists were going to sit , say for a garden room, would you still need the dpm? Asking... for a friend.. 😅
Hi mate, basically it's when there's a difference of 50mm + or - In one wall compared to the other it's running into. (50mm is just a rough guess, I'm not actually sure what measurement states there's a "pig" in the wall. 20mm to 30mm difference in long runs is somewhat easy to get over. By picking up one corner and crashing down the other. But in a short run like you saw in the video, it's impossible to get it right without taking work down. If it's single skin I wouldn't worry about DPM mate ☺️ When you sit your joists on though, wrap the ends in 100mm wide DPM to protect them from damp on the blockwork 🤜🤛💪
@@IzzytheBricky thanks for the info. Was planning to sit the joists on a dpm but will wrap them instead. I meant... my friend who's asking will wrap them 🤣👍👊
Awesome job. I haven't seen you guys putting in those little plastic vents in the walls that the inspectors are always blabbing on about. Weep vents I think they are called.
Cheers Harry mate! Tell you what, I was so confused that day... running about with a tape in one hand Lazer in the other...just looking like a lost child 😂 sorted it in the end! All up to FFL now... which is mad that FFL is actually 2100😂 Hope your good mate and enjoyed your weekend!
Great video mate , One thing though ,I always put the block course in the back of those style lintels first before I do any work on the front , The strength comes from the block-work inside the lintel , and it stops deflection.👍
Cheers mate! Really appreciate that mate! I'll be trying to do that from now on fella🤜🤛 don't you find those rivets a pain to get over... almost impossible to actually get your block in 😂 don't know who designed them
@@IzzytheBricky mate that’s why it’s best to get the blocks in first there a right bastard lol, by putting any sort of load on the front can cause deflection and make it even harder then to get them in ! I found out the hard way mate .
Alright izzy class job before you got that job what type of brickie was ther before u MY GOD . But you and Charlie are aswome bro have a good one brother 😎😎😎🤘🖐
It's like getting a black belt in karate. (A kick up the nuts wakes you up and so on) You need to experience this before you can calm down and keep an eye on what is nearly always a team effort. A sloping site, existing buildings with different gauges etc. Tiny little things give this one away and it's nearly always caused by rushing. I have had a few in my time and as the mummy on the job they where my fault. Great video and a lot of youngsters will learn from it.
Haha it definitely was a bit of a shock. Don't know if you've seen the other video's on this Job. I took over from another Bricklayer who was kicked off (for obvious reasons) I followed his brickwork round to discover he had lost or gained a course in that gable compared to the other one 😭 Definitely something I'll always keep an eye on myself. Luckily, the customer knew there was alot of problems with the previous work, this being one of them. However, we got there in the end👌 When I took over this job, it was 80mm out of square, the cavities varied from 70mm to 130mm. There's been alot of taking down and putting right.
@@IzzytheBricky Thank you for replying Izzy. You are bold to put things out there and it takes courage to weather the trolling? I have had a good life around the building and count myself lucky to have been around a lot of very good men. As I approch the end of my productive working life my knowledge keeps me in work. Bricklaying is no doubt one of the oldest surviving crafts and no matter how fast one believes they are they are slow in comparison to other trades that have been sped up(circular saw ,nail gun & glue) Pressure is applied by customers that make vast profit and train very few youngsters. The very best to you my friend I hope you find time to study the past work and techniques past. Lime mortars and good work practice (gauge rods and dividers to spred out a deviation in measurement or a calculator and a bit of paper but most of all patients) Keep up the good work and make the most of a good trade.
Great job as per izzy Done it before myself, nothing worse than a pig! Was down in a hole on existing, bringing footing pillar upto opposite end to corner building with a laser level and started with a brickette! Other end did not! Could not for the hell off it get our head around it. Inevitable it had to come down. Learn from your mistakes mate and always learning in this game mind.
Cheers mate appreciate it! That's it mate it totally bamboozled me as did you! Best way to take it down and start again! That's it... we're all constantly learning mate! Every day is a school day ain't it💪💪
First problem you have,in Sweden we call it "Mura Skruv" 😅 as you say every bricklayers nightmare when you have 1 course left and your comrade has 2 courses left 😂
@@IzzytheBricky Enjoy your presentation and application. Keep that cement dust out of your lungs, it takes a lifetime to feel the effects. All the best from a retired old brickie in Australia.
Nice one Izzy and Charlie. I take it the groundworker ran the side wall courses out of level? Also - weren't there supposed to be weepholes every some many perpends over the lintel (for the cavity tray) or did I miss them going in? A great watch as usual - keep up the good work.
Cheers again fella! Yes something like that, still not sure what he did, but we got it sorted! Wheeps are every 450mm mate over the lintel. They are definitely in there ☺️
doing great ! lintels you're using form their own tray so no need for dpc just stop ends and weep holes 🙂 If you do install trays over lintels they should go past the lintel by a minimum of 150mm ( stupid but that's the rules). the tray you installed was short of the lintel end. You've put damptrays in the splash that are not linked and turn up is at the wrong end allowing water to flow back instead of out. I know people hate me but if you're gonna teach it get it right.🤣
It's all going to be block and beam. The basement couldn't have been bigger otherwise it would have undermined the original house. So alot of "dead space has had to stay. Cheers for the comment buddy
I think maybe the customer realised that your brickwork was pissed, if its right at the bottom, itll be right at the top - yours would have been in the next door neigbours garden.maybe...
There SHOULD be a LARGE air space gap in-between the face of the insulation and the OUTER WALL inside the cavity ; this includes an air space gap in between the face of the insulation and the cavity-wall-tie drip point which points downwards in the centre of the cavity. Cavity wall ties are laid with a slight downwards slope across the LEVEL mortar joints from the inner to the outer walls. Ask N.V.Q. BRICKWORK teachers for PROOF of this !With the cavity-wall being bridged with insulation (insulation touching the outer walls), damp will travel from the outer wall through the bridging insulation to the inner wall ! ALL cavity-wall insulation batts require the air space gaps !
It is WRONG to abridge cavity-walls (insulation touching both inner and outer walls). You SHOULD have the air space gaps with fibreglass , mineral wool and polyester bats. Why dont you pluck up courage to ask N.V.Q. BRICKWORK teachers about this to PROOVE the point, because you are misleading people when you abridge cavity-walls with insulation in your videos. The moisture from the outer wall transmits through the abridging insulation to the inner wall ; It is a well known thing ! @@IzzytheBricky
60mm out of level? All you had to do was take the level off the existing property's DPC course, and work out the two extension corner levels down from that at each course of brick?
He probably ran bang on level on the other side of the house then bang on level across the new back wall then just had a line on on the side with the pig and maybe pinned on the wrong course of the existing house. Always best to check levels across the existing back of house and formulate a plan to compensate for any out of level issue before starting the mixer in my experience.
was hoping to see how you uttered up the soldiers, but the fast forward put paid to that! 😆 I was shown to only butter up the front third, leaving the back alone. I’m not sure why, I’ve probably forgotten! Do you use a full bed Izzy? 🍺
Cheers mate appreciate it! I think if you butter the back you end up with alot more snots you when have to clean out 😭 In this case I had a good 10mm bed joint, which is pretty rare for soldiers. Usually it's a little smear on the front of the lintel ain't it 😂
Izzy, just a question, why do you use the dark grey bricks? Why not just use all red bricks? I am not from the UK. Excellent bricklaying! Clean, neat and tidy. You are a very good tradesman.
Thank you very much mate appreciate it! The dark gray bricks are Engineering bricks. These bricks are very strong and are not affected by the frost and damp we get here in the uk. If I used normal red bricks, over time they would become damaged by all the freezing we get here in winter. Thanks for the kind words
They are generally used around ground level below dpc or high exposure to weather situations, they are called Staffordshire Blues, very frost/weather resistant bricks. They don't absorb a lot of moisture - they're a pain in the arse to lay in winter.
Thanks John! First it was going to be a care home, however since then it's changed to just be a normal house. A care home would have required alot more work, such as precast concrete floors Hope your good!
Nothing worse than a pig mate saw one on a brick terrace over 100 years old the other day looked awful. You did all you could knock it down start again right move .they dont call it a pig for nothing 🤣🤣 top job 👍👊🧱🧱
Haha it's a pain ain't it mate! Never had it happen or seen it before untill this... hopefully the last time 😂 hope you and the family are all well mate!
The F clamp you left built in I noticed it then you done about 30 seconds after that you built it in, but use a T clamp, can leave it in for few hours of need be then,
worked on a big roof in 1984 and the wall plate was all place because of bricklayers using differant gauges but its ok the joiners sorted it. no lazers in them days . i always wanted to be a bricky but when i found out the the half days training required was not paid i became a joiner instead and i retired on friday . loads of stories working all over europe would not change a day all good bannter
I'm a subby on DR. However this part of the job isn't in the price. Just because no-one was aware of all the problems. Basically it costs what it costs to fix it and get it to FFL. Then the customer has their price
Shouldn’t happen at all if set out proper with a laser level. The bricky can’t be no good before for it to run round on a course of pig. This lad on screen is mint u can tell he knows what he doing
Seen a course of Pig go in a manhole fella,seen headers missed on a 9" corner return by a 30 year Brickie,you will get over the embarassment with being young!
🙈🙈 the absolute worst thing ever to discover a pig in the wall. You’ve certainly had your work cut out on this job mate, but it’s good to see it’s getting there so great stuff 👍
Yes it definitely is mate! Was very panicked when I found it 😂 I have mate, from the extension being 80mm out of square, cavities ranging from 70mm to 130mm and now this...but we got there in the end and it's all plane sailing now...🤞🤞🤞 Hope you've had a great weekend mate
Hi mate I did. However I took over from another Bricklayer. Brought the brickwork round level. When I came onto his work again up that gable end he was a course out.
Hi Just like to say the water in the cavity doesn't come from inside the house, any water in the cavity comes from rain, as you know face brickwork isn't water proof the cavity acts a defence against water ingress to the internal skin, DPC trays are installed above lintels for two reasons 1 to prevent water tracking to the ends of the lintel and dripping into the cavity and 2 to prevent corrosion to the lintel, weep holes are used to allow the water to egress the cavity due to the fact that in cold weather if left in the cavity it could freeze and cause minor cracking to the brickwork mortar. The cavity wall insulation is designed to prevent any cold spots internally and to keep the property warm, the cold spot is created or limited to between the external skin brickwork and the external face of the cavity wall insulation, a persons breath will only condensate if the room temperature is below the body temperature, but this should be alleviated by the use of trickle vents to all internal door and window frames which is a must for all building control inspections, there is the exception where people tend to dry clothes inside during the winter months this can cause condensation issued but is easily dealt with by good air circulation, I could go on about whole house ventilation systems that are becoming more and more widely used but that for another discussion. Most condensation issues are due to poor insulation in conjunction with poor ventilation. I believe it takes about 75,000 gallons of water (Not including rain fall) to build the average 4 bedroom house for use in foundation concrete brick and block work floor screeding plastering painting etc so this water needs to dry out before the property is occupied to ensure the house is livable, for example a sand & cement screed will dry at a rate of 1mm per day so 75mm thick screed will take 75 days to dry, so many builders fail to allow drying times in there programme which is a fatal error and can lead to many months of return visits, including relaying timber flooring for example and how many time do new home the builder get called back to sort out damp issues that are simply water inside the building that hasn't dried properly. black mould on internal waters is caused by build up of condensation, hope this helps to explain damp issues and prevention.
I really find it difficult to understand how and why a bricklayer would put a pig in a wall.We’re all taught to gauge down, then that way you cannot f.ck up.Any bricklayer that puts a pig in a wall should throw his tools away.It’s embarrassing 😳
@@cairo678 cheers mate appreciate it! Don't know if I mentioned in the video. But what the other lad had done is built both gabel ends separate and turns out just one was a course out with the other even though they were both "level"
Good shout mate! That much going though me head on this job didn't really think about it until I got round to that side.. either way we got there in the end buddy! Hope you had a good weekend mate🤜🤛🍻
Retired now and was in the building trade al my working life, this guy really knows his stuff and knows how to explain the solution perfectly, well done 👍
Thank you very much mate really appreciate it! Hope your keeping well 💪
Izzy’s right up there with all the brickies I like to watch.
Thanks so much mate 💪
Another great video pal 👍 really like the way you take the time to explain stuff, I’ve learned so much over the last few weeks after I came across the channel 😁 excellent looking forward to the next one.
Thanks Paul, happy to hear your enjoying the videos and learning a bit too! Hopefully new video on Wednesday ☺️
Thx for taking the time to explain the process and why, your videos are a step above the rest in that regard, brickwork always looks so clean and tidy and prepared for the next step...thankyou
Thanks Terry, really glad you enjoyed the video and found it interesting! Appreciate the support!
Great work Izzy👌 The explanations of how to build e.g. cavity trays, weep holes, are very interesting. Learning lots and enjoying the content at the same time👊👏
Thanks Dominic, always appreciate the support! Glad your enjoying the videos and learning a bit too! Hope you've had a good weekend buddy
@@IzzytheBricky Thanks. Looking forward to the next video😉
Always look forward to seeing your uploads, always full of information and banter 👌 keep up the good work and keep the videos coming, wasn’t a long video 👌😎👍
Thanks Daniel appreciate it and glad your enjoying the videos😊
you have rare combination of being v clever, personable and good at bricklaying.
wish you could work on my job
Thanks so much mate appreciate it🙂
hoe far south do you work?
Izzy da man. Great stuff bro.
I needed you as a boss lmao, recently I was a brick masonry helper. Was making $60 USD an hour. Quit after the first day as I was told to shut up after I asked a couple questions which they knew I was new, I have a construction background but mainly in roofing and ask for safety reasons. Then the breaking point was being up 45ft on a bent up scaffold with no harnesses too use. There was people crawling on the skylift crane when they raised brick up and they also hit the scaffolding 3 times with the skylift crane. I liked the hard work and money but I couldn't work with an unsafe crew.
Keep it up man, you all are doing great work. Keep posting videos as brick laying is a necessity. Soon I'm going to start building pizza ovens with my dad to start making money. Hope it works out, going to use clay firebrick and refractory cement etc. Hope it works out lol
Thanks so much mate appreciate it💪 bloody hell, sounds very dodgy mate, probably best you left. Nothing is worth injuring yourself over
Sounds like a good plan mate, all the best
You have definitely saved the house owners bacon here good work mate💪💪💪
Thanks Neil, appreciate it! Yea in to save the day on this job😂
Izzy these videos are mint mate keep it up, loads of great knowledge here!
Thanks so much Alex, appreciate it buddy!
Just pure Art. 👌
Eey cheers
Hate coming off other peoples work, happemed to me did this except it was me who put the pig in. Footing was all over the place, had block flat, sailor courses and bits of roofing tile to get it level and had three or four steps in the concreteso couldnt get far in any one step. Thought id got it pretty level, bubble was within a fraction off the center, trouble is the wall was long as a monday so by the end of it, there was a 30mm descrepency at the end. Needless to say i do things a bit different now, and i have a good whinge if the footings out before i start!
Another tip for lintel height, build those 3 courses immediately after lintel height about 5-10mm high, saves so much heartache after and you can get it back down over the next 4 courses with nobody the wiser. Another lesson learned after discovering the brick we were using for soldiers turned out 5mm longer than the facings. Doesnt sound much but it hurt the aesthetic a bit.
Well done Izzy, problems are the spice of life and after we've overcome them we are wiser and have more experience to pull on. I think that was the best option ie knock the offenders down and run it through as you did. Happened to me last year and I spent half a day taking down and re building it back up, I was a bit behind afterwards but happy and could sleep at night hahaha👍
Thanks Chris mate, appreciate that! Tell you what, honestly.. probably been one of the most challenging jobs I've ever done. Just not knowing what's wrong or what's right. Really having to rely on my own experience and knowledge to fix/overcome issues, but we got there in the end! Some things are forgivable, but as you said...gotta be able to sleep at night 😂
Hope your well mate and have a brilliant weekend in the sun whatever your doing 💪
@@IzzytheBricky Will do bro, been on a roof this week and think I’m not going in tomorrow lol, enjoy your weekend too matey🍺☀️
@@foundationgood123 cheap talk from a hoddy turned pro
Great stuff, loving it !
Thank you mate
That’s so true course in pig worst nightmare! Well done for getting around it!
Thanks very much mate! Appreciate your support
Charlie spreading mortar and pointing thats a great start for him. When he's mastered that then onto laying bricks to a line ? Job coming on thats for sure 👍👍
That's it mate! His pointing is actually bang on! Each step someone "masters" they become closer to being a Bricklayer 👌🎉
sign of a good tradesman is getting over stuff..good lad
Cheers Martin buddy appreciate it
A lovely pig ! ……NOT ! They really mess with your head and what makes it worse is it’s somebody else’s shit you have to get over !
The laser is an absolute god send in these situations . .
Nice,y done as ever Izzy 👏🏽👏🏽👌🏼🧱👍🏼
Cheers mate! That's what did my head in...cos the Lazer was saying level with some of my work and his...but he was a course out...hence why I had to bring everything round in one go to see it actually working. Never used a Lazer so much though 😂😂
Appreciate it buddy!
@@IzzytheBricky 🤙🏾🤙🏾🤙🏾🧱👍🏽
And I thought Collison was rough 😂 😂
😭😭😭😂😂
Appreciate the time taken for the detailed explanation of the pig. I'd never heard of it before today. At what height difference does it become a pig and not something you can make up with a thicker bed?
With the lintel, if you just had a single skin block wall on which the roof joists were going to sit , say for a garden room, would you still need the dpm? Asking... for a friend.. 😅
Hi mate, basically it's when there's a difference of 50mm + or - In one wall compared to the other it's running into. (50mm is just a rough guess, I'm not actually sure what measurement states there's a "pig" in the wall. 20mm to 30mm difference in long runs is somewhat easy to get over. By picking up one corner and crashing down the other. But in a short run like you saw in the video, it's impossible to get it right without taking work down.
If it's single skin I wouldn't worry about DPM mate ☺️
When you sit your joists on though, wrap the ends in 100mm wide DPM to protect them from damp on the blockwork 🤜🤛💪
@@IzzytheBricky thanks for the info. Was planning to sit the joists on a dpm but will wrap them instead. I meant... my friend who's asking will wrap them 🤣👍👊
@@jp6975 haha either way is good mate 😉
Awesome job. I haven't seen you guys putting in those little plastic vents in the walls that the inspectors are always blabbing on about. Weep vents I think they are called.
Haha yeah good old hammer n nicker all worked a trick, good job your near ground level 👍
Cheers Harry mate! Tell you what, I was so confused that day... running about with a tape in one hand Lazer in the other...just looking like a lost child 😂 sorted it in the end! All up to FFL now... which is mad that FFL is actually 2100😂
Hope your good mate and enjoyed your weekend!
Great video mate ,
One thing though ,I always put the block course in the back of those style lintels first before I do any work on the front ,
The strength comes from the block-work inside the lintel , and it stops deflection.👍
Cheers mate! Really appreciate that mate! I'll be trying to do that from now on fella🤜🤛 don't you find those rivets a pain to get over... almost impossible to actually get your block in 😂 don't know who designed them
@@IzzytheBricky mate that’s why it’s best to get the blocks in first there a right bastard lol, by putting any sort of load on the front can cause deflection and make it even harder then to get them in !
I found out the hard way mate .
Alright izzy class job before you got that job what type of brickie was ther before u MY GOD . But you and Charlie are aswome bro have a good one brother 😎😎😎🤘🖐
Thanks Billy! Haha couldn't really tell you mate😂😂🤦 and cheers! He's coming along brilliantly!
So how do you get the "wall ornament" clamp? Hacksaw?
Thanks for the great video really interesting seeing you explain how it all works.
Thanks very much mate! Appreciate your support 😀 I just squeezed it out of the perp joint 😭
run your corner round level just throw in a stop then fire in a brick on edge to get the pig out ....
It's like getting a black belt in karate. (A kick up the nuts wakes you up and so on)
You need to experience this before you can calm down and keep an eye on what is nearly always a team effort.
A sloping site, existing buildings with different gauges etc.
Tiny little things give this one away and it's nearly always caused by rushing.
I have had a few in my time and as the mummy on the job they where my fault.
Great video and a lot of youngsters will learn from it.
Haha it definitely was a bit of a shock. Don't know if you've seen the other video's on this Job. I took over from another Bricklayer who was kicked off (for obvious reasons) I followed his brickwork round to discover he had lost or gained a course in that gable compared to the other one 😭
Definitely something I'll always keep an eye on myself. Luckily, the customer knew there was alot of problems with the previous work, this being one of them. However, we got there in the end👌
When I took over this job, it was 80mm out of square, the cavities varied from 70mm to 130mm. There's been alot of taking down and putting right.
@@IzzytheBricky Thank you for replying Izzy.
You are bold to put things out there and it takes courage to weather the trolling?
I have had a good life around the building and count myself lucky to have been around a lot of very good men.
As I approch the end of my productive working life my knowledge keeps me in work.
Bricklaying is no doubt one of the oldest surviving crafts and no matter how fast one believes they are they are slow in comparison to other trades that have been sped up(circular saw ,nail gun & glue)
Pressure is applied by customers that make vast profit and train very few youngsters.
The very best to you my friend I hope you find time to study the past work and techniques past.
Lime mortars and good work practice (gauge rods and dividers to spred out a deviation in measurement or a calculator and a bit of paper but most of all patients)
Keep up the good work and make the most of a good trade.
Great job as per izzy
Done it before myself, nothing worse than a pig!
Was down in a hole on existing, bringing footing pillar upto opposite end to corner building with a laser level and started with a brickette! Other end did not!
Could not for the hell off it get our head around it.
Inevitable it had to come down.
Learn from your mistakes mate and always learning in this game mind.
Cheers mate appreciate it! That's it mate it totally bamboozled me as did you! Best way to take it down and start again! That's it... we're all constantly learning mate! Every day is a school day ain't it💪💪
First problem you have,in Sweden we call it "Mura Skruv" 😅 as you say every bricklayers nightmare when you have 1 course left and your comrade has 2 courses left 😂
Haha I'll start having to say "Mura Skruv!"😂 Hope you're well mate 💪💪☺️
Yes thats the Word! 😂
Putting a pig in the wall stays with you forever, generally a once-in-a-lifetime experience if you're lucky 🙂
Definitely! This whole job has been a huge steep learning curve! Hope your well mate
@@IzzytheBricky Enjoy your presentation and application. Keep that cement dust out of your lungs, it takes a lifetime to feel the effects. All the best from a retired old brickie in Australia.
Nice one Izzy and Charlie. I take it the groundworker ran the side wall courses out of level? Also - weren't there supposed to be weepholes every some many perpends over the lintel (for the cavity tray) or did I miss them going in? A great watch as usual - keep up the good work.
Cheers again fella! Yes something like that, still not sure what he did, but we got it sorted! Wheeps are every 450mm mate over the lintel. They are definitely in there ☺️
Nice job 👍
Cheers Giles
👍🙏
Great video again
Thanks Marc
Hi Izzy, nice bit of remedial work, is the original FFL level across the width of the building?
Hi mate appreciate it! And yes the FFL is all level across the building
Bro when you get stuff like that early on the bottom near foundation, its better to just do one course with splits if they are gonna be covered.
doing great ! lintels you're using form their own tray so no need for dpc just stop ends and weep holes 🙂 If you do install trays over lintels they should go past the lintel by a minimum of 150mm ( stupid but that's the rules). the tray you installed was short of the lintel end. You've put damptrays in the splash that are not linked and turn up is at the wrong end allowing water to flow back instead of out. I know people hate me but if you're gonna teach it get it right.🤣
Bang on fella🤜🤛 appreciate you pointing me in the right direction Scott ☺️ Have a good week buddy
A great job.
Thanks Graham!
Nice recovery ! But why all the dead space surrounding one small room ?
It's all going to be block and beam. The basement couldn't have been bigger otherwise it would have undermined the original house. So alot of "dead space has had to stay.
Cheers for the comment buddy
Ball ache ! Your a better man than me, I wouldn't take over some thing some one else started.
Haha cheers mate, it's made for an interesting set of videos and alot of problem solving! Real test
Hi mate top job as always 🧱 👌
Cheers fella!
Lotta guys wouldn't put this on camera. Respect.
Cheers brother 🤜🤛
its not Izzy's fuck up it was the bloke before.
Love your videos and workmanship, brickie from 🇮🇪🇮🇪 what make is your green level,?
Thank you very much mate j really appreciate it! It's an Imex level😊 hopefully new video on Sunday
How come you use enginring bricks and concrete blocks up there so much.
why u taking all my work down and slagging me off I thought I done good job. don't know why customer got rid of me to be fair
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Cause you left spur marks all over there property cowboy 🤠 builder
I think maybe the customer realised that your brickwork was pissed, if its right at the bottom, itll be right at the top - yours would have been in the next door neigbours garden.maybe...
can't afford a lazer so done my best
There SHOULD be a LARGE air space gap in-between the face of the insulation and the OUTER WALL inside the cavity ; this includes an air space gap in between the face of the insulation and the cavity-wall-tie drip point which points downwards in the centre of the cavity. Cavity wall ties are laid with a slight downwards slope across the LEVEL mortar joints from the inner to the outer walls.
Ask N.V.Q. BRICKWORK teachers for PROOF of this !With the cavity-wall being bridged with insulation (insulation touching the outer walls), damp will travel from the outer wall through the bridging insulation to the inner wall ! ALL cavity-wall insulation batts require the air space gaps !
We don't do it like that. We have full fill cavity Insulation. If we were using kingspan there would be an air gap
It is WRONG to abridge cavity-walls (insulation touching both inner and outer walls).
You SHOULD have the air space gaps with fibreglass , mineral wool and polyester bats. Why dont you pluck up courage to ask N.V.Q. BRICKWORK teachers about this to PROOVE the point,
because you are misleading people when you abridge cavity-walls with insulation in your videos.
The moisture from the outer wall transmits through the abridging insulation to the inner wall ; It is a well known thing !
@@IzzytheBricky
60mm out of level?
All you had to do was take the level off the existing property's DPC course, and work out the two extension corner levels down from that at each course of brick?
He probably ran bang on level on the other side of the house then bang on level across the new back wall then just had a line on on the side with the pig and maybe pinned on the wrong course of the existing house. Always best to check levels across the existing back of house and formulate a plan to compensate for any out of level issue before starting the mixer in my experience.
good man
Thanks mate
@@IzzytheBricky been there done all that keep it up
Who set the footings ..get them level and you just need a tapemeasure to stay in gauge ..simple
No clue mate! Crazy
Instead of pfaffing about with mobile phones, laser levels etc, try using Datum plates, and 1 gauging rod!
Take it down, start again....
👌👌
try putting the profile at the top of the soliders rather than the bottom it stops them tipping forwards
Spot on mate, appreciate it!
Any tips on hpw to get into bricklaying without doing an apprenticeship and earning hardly owt a week
Start as a Labourer mate. Best way. And just learn while doing that. And then work your way up💪💪
What area is this one Izzy?
Hi mate, this one is in Derby
was hoping to see how you uttered up the soldiers, but the fast forward put paid to that! 😆
I was shown to only butter up the front third, leaving the back alone. I’m not sure why, I’ve probably forgotten! Do you use a full bed Izzy? 🍺
Cheers mate appreciate it! I think if you butter the back you end up with alot more snots you when have to clean out 😭
In this case I had a good 10mm bed joint, which is pretty rare for soldiers. Usually it's a little smear on the front of the lintel ain't it 😂
Thanks for that Izzy, appreciated.
What a difficult job working to someone else’s poor work. But you’re doing a cracking job as always! 🍺
only one way to fix it is pull it down and start again ...
Looks good from my house.
Look at next doors. The old and new line up at the bottom and run out very quickly. Well done for getting over it
Izzy, just a question, why do you use the dark grey bricks? Why not just use all red bricks? I am not from the UK. Excellent bricklaying! Clean, neat and tidy. You are a very good tradesman.
Less porosity, better frost resistance and looks.
Thank you very much mate appreciate it! The dark gray bricks are Engineering bricks. These bricks are very strong and are not affected by the frost and damp we get here in the uk. If I used normal red bricks, over time they would become damaged by all the freezing we get here in winter.
Thanks for the kind words
@@TurinTuramber Thank you
@@IzzytheBricky Thank you
They are generally used around ground level below dpc or high exposure to weather situations, they are called Staffordshire Blues, very frost/weather resistant bricks. They don't absorb a lot of moisture - they're a pain in the arse to lay in winter.
Need datum pegs and gauge rod all that measuring leveling accumulated error...
We call it a "hog" in the wall.
Well explained.big property is it going to be normal residence.
Thanks John! First it was going to be a care home, however since then it's changed to just be a normal house. A care home would have required alot more work, such as precast concrete floors
Hope your good!
O look a crash deck.... only get them on site 🙄
Tidy work Izzy after a lot of head scratching ! Has the original house got a basement in it that is going to connect up to the new ?
Thanks Jim! Yea finally got there! And no it's not got a basement in the original House ☺️ hope you've enjoyed your weekend mate
@@IzzytheBricky Had a nice quiet weekend with a few beers .😁
Buenos días excelente trabajo 👍 🧱💪👌🏻👊💯
Thanks mate!
YO 👍 IZZY ✌
Yooooooo! You good mate
@@IzzytheBricky i am good. I am watching the women golfers 🏌️♂️ at ST Andrew's
If you don’t build up from your lowest point first you are risk of a pig in the wall
Nothing worse than a pig mate saw one on a brick terrace over 100 years old the other day looked awful. You did all you could knock it down start again right move .they dont call it a pig for nothing 🤣🤣 top job 👍👊🧱🧱
Haha it's a pain ain't it mate! Never had it happen or seen it before untill this... hopefully the last time 😂 hope you and the family are all well mate!
All good just getting old now mate 🤣🤣 hope you and yours are all cool.I do miss laying every day .You do a great job issac 👍👊🧱🧱
The F clamp you left built in I noticed it then you done about 30 seconds after that you built it in, but use a T clamp, can leave it in for few hours of need be then,
Don't matter lol just got further in an you started using them lol,
@@liamconroy9276 haha cheers mate, keen eye! Those t clamps are brilliant
@@IzzytheBricky agree mate I love them, got the other gang who was working next to us keep borrowing them lol, (trying to Rob them lol)
worked on a big roof in 1984 and the wall plate was all place because of bricklayers using differant gauges but its ok the joiners sorted it. no lazers in them days . i always wanted to be a bricky but when i found out the the half days training required was not paid i became a joiner instead and i retired on friday . loads of stories working all over europe would not change a day all good bannter
Brilliant mate! Fantastic that you've been able to work all over doing the trade you love!
Hope your well and enjoying retirement buddy 💪🍻
Where do u start with pricing that job😂unless day rate?
I'm a subby on DR. However this part of the job isn't in the price. Just because no-one was aware of all the problems. Basically it costs what it costs to fix it and get it to FFL. Then the customer has their price
But..6 working days to fix all the problems and get to FFL ain't bad!
@@IzzytheBricky yeh fair play mate smashing it im a hoddy love it 🧱
A course out. Happens easy on a long run. Especially if the footing is out
Yea I thought it was going to be a course out when I first started the job
Shouldn’t happen at all if set out proper with a laser level. The bricky can’t be no good before for it to run round on a course of pig. This lad on screen is mint u can tell he knows what he doing
You doing the block and beam as well, Izzy?
Yes mate, think I'm starting it today
Seen a course of Pig go in a manhole fella,seen headers missed on a 9" corner return by a 30 year Brickie,you will get over the embarassment with being young!
Unreal or not kosher,take your choice.
Only watched a few mins, not end of the world since your at dpc effectively, get the bigger hammer out boom 🤣, gonna watch on
😂😂😂😂😂😂
🙈🙈 the absolute worst thing ever to discover a pig in the wall. You’ve certainly had your work cut out on this job mate, but it’s good to see it’s getting there so great stuff 👍
Yes it definitely is mate! Was very panicked when I found it 😂 I have mate, from the extension being 80mm out of square, cavities ranging from 70mm to 130mm and now this...but we got there in the end and it's all plane sailing now...🤞🤞🤞 Hope you've had a great weekend mate
Put your datum up properly and use your gauge rods ffs PIGS IN BLANKETS
Hi mate I did. However I took over from another Bricklayer. Brought the brickwork round level. When I came onto his work again up that gable end he was a course out.
Hi Just like to say the water in the cavity doesn't come from inside the house, any water in the cavity comes from rain, as you know face brickwork isn't water proof the cavity acts a defence against water ingress to the internal skin, DPC trays are installed above lintels for two reasons 1 to prevent water tracking to the ends of the lintel and dripping into the cavity and 2 to prevent corrosion to the lintel, weep holes are used to allow the water to egress the cavity due to the fact that in cold weather if left in the cavity it could freeze and cause minor cracking to the brickwork mortar. The cavity wall insulation is designed to prevent any cold spots internally and to keep the property warm, the cold spot is created or limited to between the external skin brickwork and the external face of the cavity wall insulation, a persons breath will only condensate if the room temperature is below the body temperature, but this should be alleviated by the use of trickle vents to all internal door and window frames which is a must for all building control inspections, there is the exception where people tend to dry clothes inside during the winter months this can cause condensation issued but is easily dealt with by good air circulation, I could go on about whole house ventilation systems that are becoming more and more widely used but that for another discussion. Most condensation issues are due to poor insulation in conjunction with poor ventilation. I believe it takes about 75,000 gallons of water (Not including rain fall) to build the average 4 bedroom house for use in foundation concrete brick and block work floor screeding plastering painting etc so this water needs to dry out before the property is occupied to ensure the house is livable, for example a sand & cement screed will dry at a rate of 1mm per day so 75mm thick screed will take 75 days to dry, so many builders fail to allow drying times in there programme which is a fatal error and can lead to many months of return visits, including relaying timber flooring for example and how many time do new home the builder get called back to sort out damp issues that are simply water inside the building that hasn't dried properly. black mould on internal waters is caused by build up of condensation, hope this helps to explain damp issues and prevention.
The sound of your laser level really upsets my old dog! Can't you just humma a bit? Ta.
do you cover north london?
Hi mate, sorry I don't I'm only working in Nottinghamshire and Derby
Your mate?
He’s a good friend
😂😂😂 definitely not my mate😉
Izzy what lazer is that ?
Not sure, it's a DeWalt one. You definitely DONT want it though, get an Imex E60 💪
@@IzzytheBricky thx....watched your vid today, nice to send the piggy to market.😉😊
😂😂😂 cracked me up😂 Just released a new video! Same build, but just much much further along ☺️
Thought I could smell bacon haha, nightmare.
😂😂😂😂 I thought I was going to have this issue when I started the job...i was hopeful I wouldn't...but not surprised 🤦
Brick laying is not an easy trade in construction industry
Definitely not on this job 😂
We’re you 65mm high or just 20 mm low ??
That’s 10mil above gauge
I really find it difficult to understand how and why a bricklayer would put a pig in a wall.We’re all taught to gauge down, then that way you cannot f.ck up.Any bricklayer that puts a pig in a wall should throw his tools away.It’s embarrassing 😳
Joke init, luckily the Bricklayer before me was sacked from the job. I've taken over and had to overcome all of these issues. Crazy
@@IzzytheBricky Video well explained good on you pal👌
@@cairo678 cheers mate appreciate it! Don't know if I mentioned in the video. But what the other lad had done is built both gabel ends separate and turns out just one was a course out with the other even though they were both "level"
oh dear you’ve got a grunter in the wall. Oink oink.
Hahaha
Oink, oink
Should of checked all the heights before ya pulled off it
Good shout mate! That much going though me head on this job didn't really think about it until I got round to that side.. either way we got there in the end buddy! Hope you had a good weekend mate🤜🤛🍻
@@IzzytheBricky it’s a stressful trade especially taking over shite, we like solutions not problems. Least you got there in the end mate
OINK OINK !
All in all its just a pig in the wall
😂😂😂😂
Good work but you are still taking over someone else's work
Oink oink 🐷🐷
😂😂😂😭😭
@@IzzytheBricky brick on edge to split course will sort it not good to the eye thou. Or just render it 😂😂or just lose it in the side that is not seen
@@IzzytheBricky bed up tighten down
@@IzzytheBricky I've done loads of work built wrong to match in not everything is built by the book
The second I saw your level I knew you had a hog in the wall
look underneath rough
😂😂😂 yea I know..not my work 😂
purse shyit
Did you cook the pig after all that bullshit
😂😂😂😂😂 definitely should have
@@IzzytheBricky you are very good at what you do 😉
That's no prob while you're below ground. Just blockbond into existing.