Another great video as always! Would have liked to see more of the final product in all its glory at the end though!! Your illustrations look so good on it!
so with spray painting it's really a thing about layers. light coats all over. you probably laid 2 layers on super thick while being super close and that's the mistake where runs happen. you wanna be between 6-8 inches away and you just wanna dust the first 2 coats, then you can go a little thicker. it's not a race, so no reason to rush. you should've modeled a pass through for the USB connector, mounts for the brook board, start and select buttons on the front face, and maybe even a coin button if you're gonna use it with other emulators. and I would get 2 pieces of plexi and layer the artwork in the middle. this way your art work won't droop or something later in life. just small things I picked up on. and you could've embossed the logo into your design and when pcb ways did it it would cut it out then u could've added the color epoxy so u don't have anything rough sticking out. v2 will be way better, just take what you learned here,. and thin up the walls too. way too thick.
Thank you so much for your reply, will definitely take this into consideration next time. I'm half tempted to use paint stripper and start again. The streaks are really off-putting. As for the extras, I was actually gunna add the buttons on the side for some pinball action ;) or as you say, just some additional buttons for a coin button for emulation. But this can done pretty easily. Ye, for the artwork maybe it would have been a better idea to use another layer of plexi but a lot thinner, I did use some plastice but it wasn't holding it that well so it didn't make much of a difference, I think maybe using 2 thin pieces of plexi would be better. As for the embossed logo, I did actually think of having something embossed, maybe not the Capcom logo, but an image that's carved into it, that would of been pretty cool. But ran out of time. Hence why I 3D printed a logo instead. But I have plenty of space to draw something on the front. So maybe my next video would be to remove all the paint, and start again and draw an image. As for the walls, yup, I hear you brother, way too thick. I think I was thinking too much about how it'll be all enclosed that I needed the walls to be thick. Anyway thanks for the comment bro!
@@mikeys_youtube_makes no worries! Take a look at Jony Fraze fightstick acrylic builds, he's been thru a few renovations of his design to use some of his ideas in your case. oh also, if you do go the route of 2 thin plexi sheets, you can mount the control stick on the bottom plate, flush mount the screws so you won't see the hardware on the top layer keeping it NICEEEEEEEEEEE and smooth. so using a thicker bottom sheet is beneficial. just gotta make the groove deeper but in the end its worth it cuz you could then mount the brooks board on that sheet as well. check out his channel lots of inspiration. www.youtube.com/@jonyfraze
It's great that we can finally see your illustration work, I feel sorry for the Tekken crew on the right being blocked by buttons but overall it looks really cool!
not too shabby
You should leave the plastic on when drilling the holes
When spraying back up, you are too close. More layers is ok at more of a distance.
Thanks buddy! noted for next time 👍
Great video. Love your illustrations 🙂
Another great video as always! Would have liked to see more of the final product in all its glory at the end though!! Your illustrations look so good on it!
Ye you're absolutely right. There were a bunch of close up shots but should have gotten some distance shots too
Beautiful
Talent!
so with spray painting it's really a thing about layers. light coats all over. you probably laid 2 layers on super thick while being super close and that's the mistake where runs happen. you wanna be between 6-8 inches away and you just wanna dust the first 2 coats, then you can go a little thicker. it's not a race, so no reason to rush. you should've modeled a pass through for the USB connector, mounts for the brook board, start and select buttons on the front face, and maybe even a coin button if you're gonna use it with other emulators. and I would get 2 pieces of plexi and layer the artwork in the middle. this way your art work won't droop or something later in life. just small things I picked up on. and you could've embossed the logo into your design and when pcb ways did it it would cut it out then u could've added the color epoxy so u don't have anything rough sticking out.
v2 will be way better, just take what you learned here,. and thin up the walls too. way too thick.
Thank you so much for your reply, will definitely take this into consideration next time. I'm half tempted to use paint stripper and start again. The streaks are really off-putting.
As for the extras, I was actually gunna add the buttons on the side for some pinball action ;) or as you say, just some additional buttons for a coin button for emulation. But this can done pretty easily. Ye, for the artwork maybe it would have been a better idea to use another layer of plexi but a lot thinner, I did use some plastice but it wasn't holding it that well so it didn't make much of a difference, I think maybe using 2 thin pieces of plexi would be better.
As for the embossed logo, I did actually think of having something embossed, maybe not the Capcom logo, but an image that's carved into it, that would of been pretty cool. But ran out of time. Hence why I 3D printed a logo instead. But I have plenty of space to draw something on the front. So maybe my next video would be to remove all the paint, and start again and draw an image.
As for the walls, yup, I hear you brother, way too thick. I think I was thinking too much about how it'll be all enclosed that I needed the walls to be thick.
Anyway thanks for the comment bro!
@@mikeys_youtube_makes no worries! Take a look at Jony Fraze fightstick acrylic builds, he's been thru a few renovations of his design to use some of his ideas in your case. oh also, if you do go the route of 2 thin plexi sheets, you can mount the control stick on the bottom plate, flush mount the screws so you won't see the hardware on the top layer keeping it NICEEEEEEEEEEE and smooth. so using a thicker bottom sheet is beneficial. just gotta make the groove deeper but in the end its worth it cuz you could then mount the brooks board on that sheet as well. check out his channel lots of inspiration. www.youtube.com/@jonyfraze
It's great that we can finally see your illustration work, I feel sorry for the Tekken crew on the right being blocked by buttons but overall it looks really cool!
Thanks buddy. I mean it was my bias as well. Which is why they were more hidden lol
Not enough waifu on the case. I demand waifu!
Ha! Next time.
Really cool but did you spend $1000 on the base? Is that what I saw that’s insane.
This thing is huge!!! Great job.
LOL yup, its a big chungus!!
Such a good video man, keep them coming!
So cool!!
bro this video was epic! loved it a lot.
Glad you liked it!!