Oxygen Not Included - Tutorial Bites - Industrial Bricks
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- Опубликовано: 1 июн 2024
- This tutorial bite for Oxygen Not Included looks at industrial bricks, their advantages and how to design them.
Petroleum Boilers Tutorial Bite: • Oxygen Not Included - ...
0:00 - Intro
0:10 - Industrial Brick basics & benefits
0:49 - Cold Industrial Bricks
2:15 - Hot Industrial Bricks
4:12 - Hot Industrial Bricks adding water
5:20 - Mixed Hot Industrial Bricks
7:16 - Outro
Heating - Tutorial Bites: • Oxygen Not Included - ...
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Dude, your bites should be THE official tutorial for this game. They are for me anyway. Thanks for making these. Cheers.
My thoughts exactly!
Bit late for that. Francis John is The Guy, predating this one by far.
@@AKUJIVALDOFrancis John is overrated.
@@jacksonquinn1472 He was the one with comprehensive videos, instead of rambling and loving to hear his own voice like many of ONI RUclipsrs at the time.
@@AKUJIVALDO
Was coming to this comment to make that comment, that said these tutorials are more up to date..
Lots of things remain the same… but.
1:58 I love the sleeping dupe at the bottom. They're such special little girls and boys etc.
Let's go!!! I've been waiting for this video :P
Great stuff as always GCFungus!
Almost at 1,000 subs!!! Look at you freaking go!
This build is fantastic, and I now use it on every playthrough :D
Such great content! I love these tutorials ❤🎉
Hello, very nice video! I hope you don't mind if I offer a few suggestions?
You can place metal / diamond tiles to intercept falling pwater. Maybe not immediately on the floor where the generators are built, but not too far down. By doing so, you have various advantages:
1) the lower layers need not have steam, and need not either heating or cooling... having 180°C or 100°C CO2 down there makes very little difference.
2) full CO2 lower layers improves slickers efficiency; there are ranches that are almost completely in steam right now;
3) steam doesn't have to slowly travel all the way up, which makes its amount in the top layer more stable;
4) you can move the AT up again as the idea is to turn all water into steam in the top layers
The same applies to water from the turbines. It's better to have it evaporate in the top layers.
Another good reason is that ONI isn't really good at mixed gas environments and some steam or CO2 might get deleted.The more separated you keep the two layers, the better.
So a top level with all the petroleum generators and aquatuners on airflow tiles ?
@@blazeraz7666 or mixed airflow / diamond - the idea is to let water land on hot solid tiles, so it can vaporize on contact, way before it reaches the bottom. That lets CO2 accumulate at the bottom.
Anyway, 2 years have passed and I'm no longer a fan of industrial saunas. There're not as efficient as I thought. E.g. metal is created at 40C, and rapidly sucks heat from the enviroment. Same for most industrial products.
It might be different for a power sauna (with only the generators). But I haven't done it in ages. More often than not I find the petroleum boiler water cycle more useful as a water cooler, 95C water in (from geysers, steam vents, etc), 40C p water out.
A power sauna might be usuful if you have no means to filter pwater, and you need plenty of clean water. Then again, it's 95C clean water. I'd rather find a way to produce sand (which you rarery run out of, you can crush salt and rocks) and have 40C clean water than having to deal with 95C water (which is good for O2 production, but anything else is tricky).
@@TheMule71 I'm fairly new to the game. I tried to build this mixed thing so I can also purify a polluted water vent but I can't keep the temps above 120 at the place the water from the vent comes
@@blazeraz7666 Put temp sensors and don't activate the turbines if the temp goes below 130°C.
Turbines remove heat, by injecting cold (relatively, 95°C) water.
A pwater geyser is 60°C if memory serves me well. That's quite low, you need tons of heat to boil that. The point of petroleum gens is that you can have them expell hot water, that instantly vaporize.
@@TheMule71 Yeah the vent comes actually at 30°C so I don't really thing it will work. I thought of disabling the turbines as well but the temperature falls so much that it doesn;t even reach 125. Also the room becomes full with steam and the slicks have nothing to eat. Its a whole mess I propably am going to use a sieve and chlorine thing
An aquatuner is not needed to cool steam turbines in metal refinery-steam turbine loops necessarily. The steam turbines can get self-cooled if in a suitable medium like hydrogen or stacked fluids, and possibly if in oxygen also with different setups.
There exist a few options: have the coolant never get very hot using a liquid shutoff and liquid pipe thermo sensor to not let the coolant leave the steam chamber until it has gone down to a lower temperature. If using a finite amount of coolant, like say 800 kg, this means that operators will often have to wait to use that metal refinery again. I don't particularly recommend this though, since it tends to lead to part of the coolant being in the metal refinery, and the duplicants will flick the switch of the refinery before it can complete and stuttering effects in my experience. This option requires some steel, but it's only 75 steel instead of 1200 for the aquatuner.
Another option lies in having more steam turbines, and more radiant liquid pipes also inside of a steam box. Instead of having 1 steam turbine per metal refinery, you have two steam turbines. The steam turbines don't get all that hot, since there exists more to delete the heat from the steam more quickly, and thus can get cooled with their own output. This option doesn't require any steel at all, though it probably requires more refined metal given that more radiant liquid pipes get used. It also requires more space per metal refinery, but that means that something like a rock crusher or three and kilns can go on the same floor as metal refineries. How the systems compare power wise isn't exactly clear.
Steam turbines running at hotter temperatures means more power per steam turbine, but an aquatuner consumes power (or consumes more power if cooling both steam turbines and one's machinery). Cooler steam turbines means less power per turbine, but they might run for longer, or their might be more turbines, and there's no aquatuner consuming power. So, how that balances out isn't clear, and the exact difference probably depends on setup.
It's been such a pain finding a solid explanation on what a goddamn power spine is, and this is an amazing example; HW wire everywhere, and transformers dishing out the veins and capillaries everywhere. Honestly I'd prefer it called a Power Artery, for a full metaphor but oh well.
Cool! I never thought of putting all industry in one room separate from the base!
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thanks for making this tutorial
i'm about to build my first industrial brick !! this video is really helpful thank you :))
Good luck, I hope it goes well!
Thanks GC
Well done
Can you provide a tutorial on how to actually build these bricks with a close-up and how things actually work. Even with this overview, it still looks complicated to understand what's actually happening under the hood. Awesome tutorials in general though, I am binge-watching as much stuff as possible as I am trying to build a rocket which requires a lot of extra materials that I am trying to wrap my head around on how to produce like petroleum and oxylite.
I'm not sure I could expand in a tutorial, but maybe I can help here. The industrial brick is simply a collection of industrial machines in one place. A cold brick is very simple, as you just locate the machines together and run a cooling loop behind them, which I explained in the cooling tutorial bite. The hot brick is only a little more complicated with the gas management. I explained how to control that depending on if it's steam only or steam/co2. For a mixed brick, you can fill with co2 first and add water if needed (for pet gens simply turn them on and heat the water). For steam only fill with the water output if you are adding water to it, or if not then add some water manually and boil. You can then remove any unwanted gases, which will likely float to the top, so open the side to vent or pump it out.
To get oxylite you can go 2 ways:
-The "easy" way: using an oxylite refinery. You put the machine in a tiny room, feed it O2 and gold (refined) and it drops Oxylite. You should use a liquid lock as the access to the room. You can automate (recommended) the gold delivery to the machine or use dupes. The refinery does not require dupe labor, only a gas intake for the O2 and the delivery of gold.
-the hard way: dense puft. You need to ranch puft in an O2 rich enviroment to get the Dense variant eggs. It requires some ranching, dealing with the puft variant, dealing with the eggs, dealing with the ranchs space.
The "easy" way is better since slightly more efficient at converting Oxygen into Oxylite (100% vs. 95%), can be automated, can get hot if one does not take precautions, takes less space, takes less dupe labor, the amount of gold it need is really small (5 g of gold per every 1 kg of produced Oxylite).
You still need to get to that level of research (plus the ones of automation, if you want to use auto-sweepers).
I have been watching so many of your builds I started the petroleum boiler and thought about doing this as I'm playing spaced out. It's a lot of work and I only have 5 dupes on this asteroid and now waiting for my volcano to keep giving me magma to keep my boiler going. Once that happens I'll be able to have 10-20 dupes no problem. Right now the problem is oxygen. Only one cool steam vent, an infectious oxygen and hydrogen. Right now I think I have to start to utilize everything and wait until the volcano starts to explode.
The other asteroid with nothing but a natural gas and all others are volcanos... I had to give up.... The next one was livable but ran out of water. So I wild planted 40+ trees to get fresh water that way to make up for the salt water and cold polluted water becoming dormant and to have a surplus. I have 4 electrolyser that keep all my 20 dupes with high 02 and all the atmo suits good.
Also have molten slicksters with a soon to be second power generation which will feed more slicksters to have 2 full generators running at once which is 1.5kg of fresh water. space is a problem soon so hopefully I can pull this off and then i'll be completely set. I'm on cycle 1200s and I have never played spaced out until this play through and have a space program up but man.... Also survival difficulty. Normally on no sweat and a bunch of dupes did die in the journey but its semi stable now. My problem is I want it to be super stable so I've added so many tweaks to the base. I have 2 steam turbine aquatuner builds one for my fresh water that I might use for base cooling going to the bathrooms and bio products going to plants.
Another is to cool the 02 generation rooms and what not so my base is sitting very liveable for the dupes. Also a ton of pips and 8 sage hatches not sure what to do with all the coal yet turning some into Dimond and ceramic. I just be doing so many of your builds everything I have said except for the electorlyser build is all your builds. I also put my own twist of some things... Some I have had to tear down others worked better than I thought.
But, man I've spent dozens of hours on your videos thanks so much!
That sounds like you're getting on brilliantly so I'm glad to have helped!
Dude, this is way to smart for me. LOL! But great work anyway. You are amazing.
Keep at it and I'm sure you'll get there!
in my current play through im using polluted water to cool the brick and using the excess water to run co2 scrubbers to make more polluted water.. then use the dirt to feed sage hatches..
That's an interesting route to go, although you will need a source of sand to sustain that.
@@GCFungus nope no sand. i dont use water purifier just evaporation if my polluted water cools down my brick too quickly it shuts down the steam generators to heat up the brick then diverts the polluted water to another evap powered by volcanoes :D
I like these tutorials but I have to say that the quality of your voice is much better recently, I imagine you got a new mic setup?
Yes, I upgraded my mic after I had made the earlier videos and also then added an equalizer to make it better. Plus I changed my workflow to record the visuals and voice separately so that also helped me improve the quality too.
Hi, how did you start the hot brick? Usually I just have to listen carefully to your tutorials and can follow your thoughts and builds, but here I think I'm just being silly. I don't know how to start the hot brick. Did you run the aquatuner isolated in water first until you had enough steam to open it up for the brick? Was the Brick in a vacuum before you released the steam? Do you have step-by-step instructions for this process? Thank you very much!
Generally I'd fill with some carbon dioxide from whichever machine you're using, and then manually add some water and boil it with a heating system at the bottom. That will then fill the brick with carbon dioxide and steam at the right temperature, but it will take some time. Vacuuming is a good way to start but is very time consuming. Usually if you're making a lot of gas, which petroleum generators are great at, you can just start filling it and then let it push the rest of the gases to the top where you can pump or vent them.
Just an in-passing thought for a similar-but-different setup that I have in my own base. Why do you use the once per cycle critter count with egg ejection configuration in your slickster ranch? I simply disable the conveyor loader when there are less than 8 critters. Does that have a downside?
To be honest that set-up never really worked well and now I have swapped to an incubator drop-off set-up as I am explaining in my critter Tutorial Bites (and the slickster one that is near the top of the upcoming list). Disabling the loader just stops it moving materials out, not it being loaded so using automation on the loader in that way won't achieve what you want. That is what I was trying to get out by cycling the eggs but using the timer sensor to control the autosweeper.
@@GCFungus Ah, that makes sense. I’ll check it out - thanks!
For the mixed brick, do you run the output of steam turbines back to the oil wells?
You definitely can, but it's also not a bad idea to feed it through storage. Remember that the brick should make more than you put in (if it's working well), so you need to have an overflow too.
what are the dimensions of the co2 sauna shown in the video?
What materials are safe to use for the mesh tiles in the mixed industrial brick please?
Mesh tiles can't overheat and therefore only melt. As they are made from metal ores, it's unlikely you'll get the brick anywhere hot enough to melt any of the materials, so I'd suggest to use whatever you have available.
for the hot industrial brick, why do the steam turbines need their own dedicated cooling loop? why not just build them on metal tiles instead of insulated tiles so they exchange heat with the steam room? better yet, why not just expose them to the steam of the steam room? don't they delete heat overall?
Steam turbines do not work if they are over 100 degrees Celsius, so they always need some form of cooling as they make a lot of heat when working.
@@GCFungus ohh, that makes sense.
hi do u or anyone have any tips on starting up an industrial sauna? I'm starting it with vacuuming out the area then pour in some water and use kilns and refineries to heat up the steam but it seems to condensate quickly and disappear due to low volumes? and if there's co2 in there it doesn't quite get heated up enough, co2 is horrible for retaining heat lol quite in a stump on trying to fire up the sauna, hoping for some tips if possible thanks!
Yep, so the heating is generally done with water and steam. Vacuuming out and then adding some water is a good way to do it. I would highly recommend some heating at the bottom, either with a tricked out tepidizer (if you don't mind using them), or an aquetuner - I covered both in the tutorial bite on heating: ruclips.net/video/FG0fep6iMbs/видео.html . The first bits of steam will condense as the machines are built colder, but with enough heating they will settle over 100 degrees. I have an example of this from my Most Dupes Record Attempt playthrough here that may also help: ruclips.net/video/f7OgOLVHbSI/видео.html
@@GCFungus amazing! I managed to get it to heating yesterday, using a "heating loop" with petroleum running through a tricked tepidizer at 150C; the whole brick is filled with Co2 and steam now, will check out ur playthrough video maybe for some more extra tips!
Great video, but would like to say 95% of the time you do not need OR gates and that includes the two times you show them here. If either part going into an OR gate sends a green signal then the automation line is green without an OR Gate.
PS: This would not be the case in RL, but games are games.
I think it is being included for clarity's sake. In GCFungus' guide to logic gates, it is brought up that an OR gate's only advantage over a wire is to prevent back propagation.
That is one way to handle it, but could do a filter gate for 0.1 seconds from one of the wires.
Another way would just go to the inputs you want the wire to go to.
There are also more exotic industrial temperatures. If you have supercoolent, then you can have a cryogenic Industrial brick. It will instentaneously freeze the water and carbon dioxyde removing the need for pumping and whatnot. Dupe that work the machine are likely to get hypothermia, but their life is not in danger.
Another exotic temperature design is the "cold steam" design. The steam should be maintain between 100 and 120 celcius. The minimum steam temperature of the steam turbines need to be bypassed by keeping one of their 5 inlets in a tiny separate room with above 125 celcius steam at very low pressure. The steam turbines will produce little enough heat to be able to self-cool, using the 5 celcius gap between their water output and their maximum temperature.
This mean the room requires no aquatuner (except possibly to generate the bypass 125 celcius temperature, but then it should practically never activate). Pwater will not be distilled which may a good thing, e.g. for domestic arbor trees. Also, only gold or better is required instead of steel. On another hand, the temperature range is much smaller, making the room not ideal for metal refineries.
I really like the idea of the cryogenic brick, but it wouldn't convert polluted water which is a bit of a disadvantage.
@@GCFungus
Depends what you do with the water. There are builds where you can automate your dupes dropping bottles of pwater so it offgases. It’s worst than spoms for energy but it’s great for clay. Alternatively, pwater is great for arbor trees.
hey, got a solution for steam deletion? took me a bit too long to fully setup 8 full ranches of slicksters to eat up all the co2 from your petro boiler, so now there's 200kg+/tile of co2 so whenever steam gets created by the petro gens, it seems to just get deleted instantly. now my whole brick is pretty much co2
I think you hit the nail on the head there - when the gas levels get so high that is when you will get deletion. You'll need to reduce the co2 levels so that the steam can form, so either make extra slicksters or vent/pump to space. I typically aim for levels around 10-20kg/tile and it seems to work fine, although I can't be entirely sure there is no deletion even then.
@@GCFungus yeah, at the start, when it was at the levels you are describing, it seemed to be fine. Should I include skimmers in the brick, or rather plus to space like you said? Guessing pumps would be more efficient? Because right now my brick is getting to levels where even steel overheats…
I think either method would be fine, but definitely get the levels down!
Dump your excess slickster eggs into a single tile that is floating at least 2 meters above either the petroleum level or the floor and let them eat the excess co2
Should cold industrial brick be equipped with co2 scrubber at the bottom?
A scrubber is definitely a simple way to remove carbon dioxide from the bottom yes. You could also pump it to space.
What’s even the advantage between a cool brick and a hot brick then? Is it cause you can open up metal volcanoes inside them? You still have to set up a cooling loop for both anyway so I don’t see a huge advantage in doing a hot brick. It seems wasteful almost because of the amount of high quality resources you need to replace the machines with.
In my opinion, the hot brick is superior as it does simplify a number of things. Yes you can open metal volcanoes, volcanoes and steam vents inside with no issue. Also it deals with polluted or salt water by turning it into steam for collection as water. The other advantage is slicksters that need the hotter temperatures, especially molten slicksters. It certainly does require a lot of steel/thermium, depending on how many machines you want, but these are more accessible than ever in the spaced out DLC with iron volcanoes on the frozen outer planetiod, and tungsten volcanoes on the marshy outer planetoid. Of course the challenge then is taming those, but it is certainly possible.
Do you have a video of how to survive long enough to get to the oil biome and start plastics
Unfortunately not specifically, but to my mind the key factors are food and oxygen, both of which I have videos for. Cooling will also help, so maybe look at the tutorial bites for cooling, and plastic & steel. I also have 2 playthrough series, so maybe take a look at the early game sections of those. I'd aim to get plastic and steel ahead of cycle 100.
@@GCFungus thanks. Though ran out of power and oxygen around 80 cycles. Probably should have stopped pumping oxygen into the entire map pretty sure that's where both resources went to
@@colecook834 build the dupes a habitable area as soon as feasible. You can’t oxygenate the entire asteroid with your starting tech and resources, so settle for a smaller area that you _can_ control. Once that internal area is stable and you have enough excess oxygen production, set up atmo suit docks to help the dupes push out of the base and into the rest if the asteroid. At this point you can also move your industrial equipment out of the base too, reducing the amount of cooling you’ll need to do inside the base.
@@colecook834 the key to survival is always considering *sustainability*. I think the game is designed this way to teach you, like your first playthrough will likely end in running out of oxygen when you realize you're out of Algae. So, you restart and know you need get eletrolyzers going before you run out of Algae, and the challenge becomes finding some renewable source of fresh water. Then, you have things going well but you run out of Sand you need to run your sieves, and so on and so forth. You'll run out of a coal for power, then start ranching Stone Hatches and feel like you've got infinite power (and food) ... until the unthinkable happens, and you run out of rocks!
So, iterating on this process is how you eventually get to the point where you are taming geysers and channeling those resources into what your dupes need to survive. The game is very flexible, and you have a lot of options open to you, and the spawns and world settings will be in some unique combination for you each time. Basically, if you are always playing this game with a mindset that you are "learning for next time" you should pretty quickly be able to start a few colonies and work through the early/mid game humps. Each time, concentrate on what killed you and how you could have mitigated it, perhaps starting dozens (or hundreds) of cycles before the actual Time of Death. Good luck!!
@@privatehuff thank you. I kept going to the Oceania asteroid. And it always took forever to get to oil around 100 cycles. Once I tried another asteroid made it there around 60 cycles.
My primary problem was power and oxygen. I couldn't use electrilizers without burning more power. But didn't have access to said power. And can't use electrilizers oxygen inside the base without cooling it.
how much water i need so only top floor filled with steam on mixed industrial brick?
It is difficult to control with a simple number, because the balance of the steam and carbon dioxide will depend on the amounts of both present, which can vary significantly depending on the machinery and slicksters. That's why I included a gas element sensor to return water into the brick if there is too little steam, and then I fill it with enough slicksters to consume the carbon dioxide.
The large transformer is not 2kw cos you can do that with 2x1kw. If you put les than 2kw consurmers on a 2kwcable, if you want to transfer power from generator into base without havywatt, If you want to transfer havy to heavy, 4kw on 6tiles is better
What are radium pipes?
That's radiant pipes, i.e. pipes that are made out of refined metals and are very condctive.
How do you preheat a industrial brick
I did mention in the video that you need a heating system, so very commonly a tricked out tepidizer or aquetuner - both of which i covered in the heating tutorial bite here: ruclips.net/video/FG0fep6iMbs/видео.html . Metal refineries or other machines will add heat too.
One could say, this is the true infinite food production in the game for a map with oil reservoirs. Many want to melt regolith and use it on hatches.. or farm regolith itself to feed voles. But geysers that give water to turn into petroleum to CO2 feeding slicksters is truly a "free" infinite food production. That and long haired slicksters that just can eat excess oxygen which again comes from geysers. That is interesting... this makes the water planet able to have a colony by feeding long hair slicksters and freeing up resources for say the tree planet which needs A LOT of calories.
There are quite a few ways to make sustainable food, so it really comes down to preference at the end of the day. Slicksters are definitely my go-to as I enjoy petroleum and sour gas boilers very much.
I hate the fact atmosuits now (Spaced Out) consume resources to maintain. I put all manually operated machines into a cold no-suit industrial brick with glass floor for easier decor bombing.
The atmo suit setting isn't actually spaced out specific, and you can turn it off in the world settings before you start a game if it's annoying. With it on though, thimble reeds or dreckos are both reasonably straightforward to keep the supply going.
I bet tanta to the what 😮
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