Just completed this upgrade on my 2001 XJ. Excellent, easy to follow, definitely easy to make adjustments now. Total parts were about $215. No one source had everything needed. I know I'm at least 10 of the views listed. (slow learner ;-)
Dude! Your video was more instructional than professional ones. I love the way you managed to make it succinct and to the point while not leaving out a single step nor failing to explain caveats. Thank you for making this. I will be ordering my parts soon.
Hey Austin, your doing a great job with your videos! I stop in and check if you have something I plan on doing as your instructional videos are clear and to the point. Not a bunch of shop schanagins and theatrical stuff we don't need. Keep up the hard work of running a RUclips channel thats informative and easy to watch. 👍👍😎
Great video. Super helpful. One question though. My 2000 xj 4 wheel drive passenger tire has a noticeable toe out, and the driver side is straight. What’s the best way to get the passenger side tire to straighten out and NOT move the driver side? And then I could adjust the toe properly. I do have this zj steering linkage upgrade.
It probably a combination of the steering wheel not being straight as well as toe out. I would set your toe across both wheels with the tie rod. Then adjust your steering wheel with the drag link.
@@OutJeeping you don’t think it would be necessary, to drop the drag link off the knuckle to straighten the wheel and THEN adjust the drag link shorter at the pitman arm TRE?
If you want to make the tie rod boots last a long time then get your alignment done and when you bring the jeep home coat the boots in silicone to protect them ...once it dries it's basically rubber. Do the same with bushings on new parts.
@@alexmagers6595 Permatex ultra black is what I use ( silicone gasket maker)....put a thin coat on a day before you do your project to let it dry.... basically a protective coat from the elements 🤘
Just did the same set up on my LJ. Mine was a little more expensive I used the Moog parts. Still cheaper then the aftermarket 1 ton set ups. Keep up the great videos👍
Yeah I figure I'd give the N3 series a shot. Didn't want to spend $100 on a higher quality stabilizer for this Jeep and didn't want to get a cheaper $25 one like Monroe, since I'm not a fan of them lol.
Great video I watch many from you and I’m subscribed. Helps me out alot. I have a 2001 jeep Cherokee I’ve put on a 3 1/2” lift Rubicon Express made. I’m having to replace tie rod ends at pitman arm both ends. Now I see that I could get the ZJ heavy duty Y assembly. Thanks again for your videos.
awesome video. was going to go with this style, but as my jeep sits about 7 inch lift in the front, im gonna go with an inverted T to prevent Toe change when the suspension moves. its just too much on the TRE's.
I just ordered all these parts from RA (Moog parts) plus the Track bar when I came across your video. Thanks for the great explanation!! Will be doing this in the next week or so. Hoping it will cure the death wobble! A lot of play in my track bar and the drag link. Hoping I don’t have an oval bolt hole.
Great video Austin! Thanks for making it. I’m sticking with 33” tires on my xj. So I think this setup is adequate for my needs. Far stronger than stock. And if I do damage it on a long trip away from home. Easy to get parts. And easy to adjust. Cheers
Hey Austin , its funny you posted this video of the ZJ steering upgrade . I had just ordered all the parts to convert my TJ to this set up although I bought all NAPA parts and they were quite a bit more expensive . Nice job on your install . Looking forward to your next video . Until next time take care and be safe and happy holidays .
How did you get the old 18mm bolt in the Steering Stabilizer ? I ordered the same damper and if I put in the insert that came with it into the rubber bushing the 18mm bolt wont fit, Did you just put the bolt through the rubber bushing?
Hey man I just build my steering set up I bought the same stuff as you the 5.2 tire rods they are thicker then my stock 4.0 tire rods and I’m about to throw them back in will let you know with results ..
Austin. Its important to note that, I dont think putting the weight of the entire motor, trans, and front end should be placed on the lower control arms bolts alone? Honestly that is a lot of weight, about 1800 lbs. front end/ rear end or approx. 900lbs. at each LCA bolt even though double shear? GVW is approx. 3500lbs. The FSM suggests using jacks under the axle or the subframe. If I am incorrect, please correct me. Other than that, awesome steering upgrade. I really do appreciate all your XJ / ZJ repair and upgrade videos 👍
I could understand your concern on those bolts. There are other places I could have placed the jack stands but the semicircular end on the jack stands fit pretty good under the front control arm bushings sleeves in the control arm. Looking up the shear stress of a M14 grade 12.9 bolt comes out to 9,600 lbs. The bolt is under a double shear load in the control arm bracket, so you could double that weight to to 19,200 lbs. And being 2 bolts it's resting on, there would need to be a weight greater than 38,400 lbs from the Jeep before those bolts will shear. So I'd say those bolts shouldn't be a concern.
I just bought those Moog parts to do the upgrade on my '98 Cherokee and noticed the tie rod is unpainted. Do you recommended painting it so it doesn't rust? The drag link hasn't arrived yet, but I'm assuming it'll be unpainted as well.
Hi Austin I have the same year 99 XJ with 4.5 lift 33x12.50r15. I'm still running stock steering. I was looking into this as well as other hd or 1 ton steering setups, but they all seem to have different requirements and everyone has something bad to say about all of them lol. What are your thoughts on this upgrade? Works good or better than stock? Any issues? Clearance issues? Good for trailing? I won't be doing anything hardcore, but will be on the trail. Thanks!
I like this upgrade because the simplicity of installing since it is all off the self parts. It won't be as strong as one ton steering, but as long as you are not constantly bashing into rocks it should be good, defiantly a stronger tierod than stock. If you want to go with a one ton setup, I would recommend the ball joint grease boot style tie rod end kits. I would stay away from heim joint kits, I've ran them in the past and they dry out, squeak, and wear faster, a lot more of a pita to maintain.
I was just wondering how this upgrade is holding up. I'm compiling a parts list for my new project, and this is the first I've ever heard of this set up. I don't want to go full send and get the 1 ton setup, so this definitely peaks my I interest. Thanks for the videos, I through enjoy your straight forward channel. If you'd be kind enough to give an update, I'll be sure to buy a sticker. (I'm going to buy a stick either way 😆)
Hey Austin, great video! I have an older 93' ZJ 4.0 Grand Cherokee Laredo and need to do the same upgrade as you did. Can you please give me the kit # that's for my 4.0 .Does this mean that the kit that I get from Rock Auto won't have beefier parts like the V8 kit you had purchased? I'm asking these questions cause I'm having problems signing into Rock Auto. Thx much 4 your time and effort in these manners. PS: I will be sticking with the stock tire size & stock lift. Hope you get back to me. Todd
Some of the part links were no longer working. AC Delco stopped making some steering components so I put in MOOG part links. Everything should be working now. All parts were purchased as individual parts and not as a steering kit.
Hey Austin so I did the same swap but the inner tie rod end is to long and I can’t get it aligned any suggestion on a tie rod end that would fit that is shorter
I used the same ones you had in the description from Moog ES3096L the only thing that was different than your list was the adjusting sleeve. The one you listed was out of stock and they substituted ES2079S. My shop did get it close to being aligned but my steering wheel is sitting at 45 degrees. Seems the tie rod end is too fat for my pitman arm dosent slide all the way up into the hole to get the nut on the top. I just thought there might be a different tie rod end I could install. Was also thinking maybe use a heim joint instead (thoughts? 😊
Great video. my million dollar dreams with a homeless man budget with this idea it will work for me. I think you are right, its not mandatory of high quality steering stabilizer for this jeep. my opinion.
Killer info. I’m on this project this week. Were your Moog parts painted ? Mine came in bare metal. I ended up hitting it with rattle can but I suck at painting 😂
I installed a 4” lift on my Grand Wagoneer. Now when I steer full right the wheels turn too sharp, but when I turn full left the wheels barely turn. What’s funny is I still turn the steering wheel 2.5 turns from center both ways. Is the drag link or any other part of the steering too short now? Thanks.
The drag link is most likely too short or too long. If the tie rods connect on the front of the knuckle it would be too short and if they attached behind the knuckle behind the ball joints it would be too long. I would adjust the drag link because it is most likely one Revolution off.
Yes it certainly sounds like the the drag link is too short for the amount of lift you have. I would say that you either need a longer drag link, or a drop / longer Pittman arm on your steering gear box.
I got a complete front kit on Amazon for a 1995 ZJ made for a V8 and it has all ball joints upper and lower, drag link, tie rod and sleeves and clamps. Ive not installed it but from my research the kit will also fit a ZJ with a 4.0L as the knuckles are the same on the Dana 30, for both the 6cyl. and the 5.2 and 5.9 from 1993-98. Then in 1999 the WJ had a change with different knuckles to accommodate the 2 piston brake calipers. Anyone please correct me if I'm wrong? I hope this info helps you!
Austin, hey buddy. Actually you are supposed to put the tie rod sleeve clamps so that the bolts are opposite of the splice in the adjusting sleeves, so that it puts less stress on the clamp bolts. If you don't believe me you can check it out in a children's repair manual. But just the same, thank you for the video, and the good tips about the steering components upgrade.
Whenever I do any suspension or steering work on my zj I use rough country v8 parts, the 4.0 zj and the xj steering parts are the same, the v8 parts are larger diameter
That's a shame. Guess you will just have to build that J series pick up. They are pretty cool also. About 20 years ago I had a 1977 Cherokee Chief with the 360 v8, and a 3spd manual transmission. It was a great truck, and a lot of fun to use for wheeling.
Yeah for sure going to restore the J10 to it's glory. Now that I am thinking about it more and talking with companys, I may be putting a lift on the XJ.
Question: it may be obvious to some but, will these parts go on a ZJ that is not a V8, as in the inline 6. I need the tie rod, drag link, 4 tie rod ends and the 2 threaded sleeves. Can you confirm Austin exactly?
Yup it should work with all ZJ models as well. You will just need a tie-rod, drag link, 2 adjustment collars, and 2 tie-rod ends that will both be the same size as what is factory at the pit-man arm. The drag link and tie-rod will have the tie-rod-end build into them on one side.
Just wondering "if" you did go through Rock Auto if they will set you up with the correct kit? I have a 93' Grand Cherokee Laredo with the I6 4.0 Does this mean my kit won't be a beefier kit as the V8 models will have?
@@toddrhine7648 If you buy a tie rod from rock auto that is for a 93-98 ZJ that is specifically for a V8, i.e.5.2 or 5.9, then it will be a bigger diameter and will, as a result be stronger. Also, the smaller inline 6 tie rod is hollow, where as the tie rod for the V8 equipped ZJs is a solid metal tie rod and has larger, beefier tie rod ball joints but will still FIT the steering knuckles FOR BOTH ENGINES, as they are the same for both the V8 and I6 with the Dana 30 front axle as far as I know and have looked up in the FSM. Hope this helps.
hey man so I did they same thing you did the 98 ZJ steering upgrade and my steering wheel is completely upside down and I took it to the mechanic and they can’t get it straight. I also put on the adjustable track bar. Any ideas on what went wrong?
Hey I did this swap a month ago and it seemed like better quality parts, but I hear a popping noise like something is binding when I turn, it's not super rough but it's concerning. Any suggestions?
I would look at the steering move as someone else is turning the wheel and see if you can spot where the noise is coming from. It could also be bad axle U-joints, and you would only hear that while the Jeep is turning and moving at the same time.
It could be that one of the ends of the rods isn't quite bolted down all the way and has some play for a tie rod end to move up and down as you're turning the wheels. Happened to me when I put a lift kit on my XJ and noticed a similar noise every time I'd turn the wheel at a very specific point. I thought I had tightened everything down as much as it would allow for the castle nuts. But I was mistaken. I had someone move the steering wheel while I was underneath looking at the tie rod ends. I noticed one was shifting up & down on my passenger side. I made sure the tie rod end was fully seated in to the knuckle on the passenger wheel, tightened up the castle nut a few more turns, and no more popping or clunking noise.
Check your track bar at the axle and ensure it's tight. I had a pop-under my feet when I turned right in my Xj after I did some work to the front suspension. The track bar was moving side to side when I turned the wheel because it wasn't tight enough.
I haven't had any issues. What sway bar and lift are you running on your Jeep? There should not be any clearance issues different to the stock setup. All that is changing is the tie rod.
So I did this on a 2001 cherokee and the tie rod bottom out and the toe cannot be correct and the steering wheel is off. What did I miss I did this with the parts listed.
Hard to say as far as the tie rod bottoming out, feel free to send a picture via FB or Insta. The steering wheel gets adjusted by adjusting the length of the drag link.
@@VWTG100 Possibly but you want to make sure you still have plenty of thread engagement on the adjustment collar. Is the tie rod end and tie rod touching each other inside the collar and the wheels still towed out? Also how does the thread engagement look on the draglink collar?
Just look up on Rock auto for an XJ Drag link setup and a 1998 ZJ 5.2 tierod with a tierod end and adjustment collar, then you should be able to pick whichever brand you want.
The MOOG DS1310 drag link is available from Advance Auto Parts for $150! UPDATE: I just completed this upgrade on my 1986 Jeep Comanche 4x4. The Moog drag link + tie rod end, combined, are too long for a Comanche. You will need to cut off about 3/4" of the threaded end of the drag link so you can center the steering wheel. Currently, with both threaded ends as far into the sleeve as possible, the steering wheel is still pointing about 15° left of center on a straight road.
I'm not sure why the links don't have a cart option when you open them up. I would just copy the part number from the link and search for it on their home page.
@@OutJeeping Tried that ...it doesn't work. No cart link & its a nightmare finding parts at the Rock Auto site. Please get this fixed so we can order easily. Great video though !!!
@@ДмитрийАлтайский-е8в Так автор рассказывает, что деталь ржавая и плохо позволяет регулировать колеса. Вот он и ставит новое и удобное в плане регулировок. Только я не понял такой момент: это тяги от ZJ или для него, но автор поставил их на XJ.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Just completed this upgrade on my 2001 XJ. Excellent, easy to follow, definitely easy to make adjustments now. Total parts were about $215. No one source had everything needed. I know I'm at least 10 of the views listed. (slow learner ;-)
Dude! Your video was more instructional than professional ones. I love the way you managed to make it succinct and to the point while not leaving out a single step nor failing to explain caveats. Thank you for making this. I will be ordering my parts soon.
Hey Austin, your doing a great job with your videos! I stop in and check if you have something I plan on doing as your instructional videos are clear and to the point. Not a bunch of shop schanagins and theatrical stuff we don't need. Keep up the hard work of running a RUclips channel thats informative and easy to watch. 👍👍😎
Thanks for the support, I appreciate it!
Great video. Super helpful.
One question though. My 2000 xj 4 wheel drive passenger tire has a noticeable toe out, and the driver side is straight.
What’s the best way to get the passenger side tire to straighten out and NOT move the driver side?
And then I could adjust the toe properly.
I do have this zj steering linkage upgrade.
It probably a combination of the steering wheel not being straight as well as toe out. I would set your toe across both wheels with the tie rod. Then adjust your steering wheel with the drag link.
@@OutJeeping you don’t think it would be necessary, to drop the drag link off the knuckle to straighten the wheel and THEN adjust the drag link shorter at the pitman arm TRE?
If you want to make the tie rod boots last a long time then get your alignment done and when you bring the jeep home coat the boots in silicone to protect them ...once it dries it's basically rubber. Do the same with bushings on new parts.
What silicone product are you referring to?
@@alexmagers6595 Permatex ultra black is what I use ( silicone gasket maker)....put a thin coat on a day before you do your project to let it dry.... basically a protective coat from the elements 🤘
@@chestrockwell7023just around the entire boot ?
@@Pablo-kd4mt yes exactly....the point is to protect the boot from the elements
Just did the same set up on my LJ.
Mine was a little more expensive I used the Moog parts. Still cheaper then the aftermarket 1 ton set ups.
Keep up the great videos👍
Nice job Austin.You sure are rolling the dice with that RC steering stabilizer...lol...
Yeah I figure I'd give the N3 series a shot. Didn't want to spend $100 on a higher quality stabilizer for this Jeep and didn't want to get a cheaper $25 one like Monroe, since I'm not a fan of them lol.
I just did this on my 98 xj. It worked out great, thanks for the moog parts list.
Great video I watch many from you and I’m subscribed. Helps me out alot. I have a 2001 jeep Cherokee I’ve put on a 3 1/2” lift Rubicon Express made. I’m having to replace tie rod ends at pitman arm both ends. Now I see that I could get the ZJ heavy duty Y assembly. Thanks again for your videos.
very profesional and straight forward
THANK YOU VERY MUCH for teaching me how to fix my own jeep
Just did this upgrade on my ‘99. Thanks for the info!
Great video and great way to beef up the steering a bit! Thanks! Did you have any interference between the drag link and passenger side end link?
Not for me, everything should clear good as this setup came on stock Grand cherokees.
awesome video. was going to go with this style, but as my jeep sits about 7 inch lift in the front, im gonna go with an inverted T to prevent Toe change when the suspension moves. its just too much on the TRE's.
The DS1310 drag link for moog doesn't bring one up, any suggestions?
I just ordered all these parts from RA (Moog parts) plus the Track bar when I came across your video. Thanks for the great explanation!! Will be doing this in the next week or so. Hoping it will cure the death wobble! A lot of play in my track bar and the drag link. Hoping I don’t have an oval bolt hole.
How’d you make out?
@@Deadbuck73 death wobble cured! I’ve got 2 other XJs to do now!
@@swatscorner awesome!!! Thanks for getting back!
Did this on the LJ with moog parts painted all everything to prevent rust
Great video Austin! Thanks for making it.
I’m sticking with 33” tires on my xj. So I think this setup is adequate for my needs. Far stronger than stock. And if I do damage it on a long trip away from home. Easy to get parts. And easy to adjust.
Cheers
Hey Austin , its funny you posted this video of the ZJ steering upgrade . I had just ordered all the parts to convert my TJ to this set up although I bought all NAPA parts and they were quite a bit more expensive . Nice job on your install . Looking forward to your next video . Until next time take care and be safe and happy holidays .
Thanks for all these build videos for this XJ. I have one just like it that I’m wanting to start working on and upgrade. Very helpful 👍🏻👍🏻
Yeah… I’ve got to get this done. Thanks again.
Great work... excellent production... snd appreciate the parts list!!! SuperPro!
How did you get the old 18mm bolt in the Steering Stabilizer ? I ordered the same damper and if I put in the insert that came with it into the rubber bushing the 18mm bolt wont fit, Did you just put the bolt through the rubber bushing?
Hey man I just build my steering set up I bought the same stuff as you the 5.2 tire rods they are thicker then my stock 4.0 tire rods and I’m about to throw them back in will let you know with results ..
Holy shit you seen my comment bro your the goat hope you know I’m 19 and learning alot from your videos thank you sincerely ✨
@@Delgado-media Keep working at and you can accomplish alot. I've learned everything I know by doing the job myself and videos as guidance.
Austin. Its important to note that, I dont think putting the weight of the entire motor, trans, and front end should be placed on the lower control arms bolts alone? Honestly that is a lot of weight, about 1800 lbs. front end/ rear end or approx. 900lbs. at each LCA bolt even though double shear? GVW is approx. 3500lbs. The FSM suggests using jacks under the axle or the subframe. If I am incorrect, please correct me. Other than that, awesome steering upgrade. I really do appreciate all your XJ / ZJ repair and upgrade videos 👍
I could understand your concern on those bolts. There are other places I could have placed the jack stands but the semicircular end on the jack stands fit pretty good under the front control arm bushings sleeves in the control arm. Looking up the shear stress of a M14 grade 12.9 bolt comes out to 9,600 lbs. The bolt is under a double shear load in the control arm bracket, so you could double that weight to to 19,200 lbs. And being 2 bolts it's resting on, there would need to be a weight greater than 38,400 lbs from the Jeep before those bolts will shear. So I'd say those bolts shouldn't be a concern.
@@OutJeeping I appreciate the reply and the math. I didn't realize those bolts were that strong and I've learned something. Thank you
Great video with good instructions. Thanks, and keep these jeep videos coming. 👍🏾👌🏽💥💯
Great video! I'm looking to upgrade my steering on 93 ZJ. Will this work if I have a 3.5 in lift?
It should, I am running my jeep with it at 3". Usually 4.5" and taller you want to upgrade to a different style steering.
@@OutJeeping How come? I have a 4.5" kit and I just ordered all this stuff. Hope itll fit
Joe, Just curious if you have a V8 or the 4.0. If you have the 4.0 what exact kit # did you get for your 93' Grand Cherokee?
A bit on this one but got a subscriber. Have a 00 Cherokee. Great video.
One of the best videos.
I just bought those Moog parts to do the upgrade on my '98 Cherokee and noticed the tie rod is unpainted. Do you recommended painting it so it doesn't rust? The drag link hasn't arrived yet, but I'm assuming it'll be unpainted as well.
I would, it would rust immediately after the first rain if you don't. Still will function but not look new.
@@OutJeeping I painted the tie rod, drag link, and the two tie rod ends, and they look great!
Just saw this 👍. Awesome video btw
Hi Austin I have the same year 99 XJ with 4.5 lift 33x12.50r15. I'm still running stock steering. I was looking into this as well as other hd or 1 ton steering setups, but they all seem to have different requirements and everyone has something bad to say about all of them lol. What are your thoughts on this upgrade? Works good or better than stock? Any issues? Clearance issues? Good for trailing? I won't be doing anything hardcore, but will be on the trail. Thanks!
I like this upgrade because the simplicity of installing since it is all off the self parts. It won't be as strong as one ton steering, but as long as you are not constantly bashing into rocks it should be good, defiantly a stronger tierod than stock. If you want to go with a one ton setup, I would recommend the ball joint grease boot style tie rod end kits. I would stay away from heim joint kits, I've ran them in the past and they dry out, squeak, and wear faster, a lot more of a pita to maintain.
I was just wondering how this upgrade is holding up. I'm compiling a parts list for my new project, and this is the first I've ever heard of this set up. I don't want to go full send and get the 1 ton setup, so this definitely peaks my I interest. Thanks for the videos, I through enjoy your straight forward channel. If you'd be kind enough to give an update, I'll be sure to buy a sticker. (I'm going to buy a stick either way 😆)
So far it is holding up great. It's definitely alot easier to do an alignment compared to a one ton crossover steering.
Great Job Austin !
Thank you 💕😊 so much... Saved me so much struggle!
Hey Austin, great video! I have an older 93' ZJ 4.0 Grand Cherokee Laredo and need to do the same upgrade as you did. Can you please give me the kit # that's for my 4.0 .Does this mean that the kit that I get from Rock Auto won't have beefier parts like the V8 kit you had purchased? I'm asking these questions cause I'm having problems signing into Rock Auto. Thx much 4 your time and effort in these manners. PS: I will be sticking with the stock tire size & stock lift. Hope you get back to me. Todd
Some of the part links were no longer working. AC Delco stopped making some steering components so I put in MOOG part links. Everything should be working now. All parts were purchased as individual parts and not as a steering kit.
Hey Austin so I did the same swap but the inner tie rod end is to long and I can’t get it aligned any suggestion on a tie rod end that would fit that is shorter
What brand and part numbers did you use for the whole setup?
I used the same ones you had in the description from Moog ES3096L the only thing that was different than your list was the adjusting sleeve. The one you listed was out of stock and they substituted ES2079S. My shop did get it close to being aligned but my steering wheel is sitting at 45 degrees. Seems the tie rod end is too fat for my pitman arm dosent slide all the way up into the hole to get the nut on the top. I just thought there might be a different tie rod end I could install. Was also thinking maybe use a heim joint instead (thoughts? 😊
Nice work, thanks
Great video. my million dollar dreams with a homeless man budget with this idea it will work for me. I think you are right, its not mandatory of high quality steering stabilizer for this jeep. my opinion.
You explained good thanks just subscribed 👍🏼
Excellent video. Possibly the best thorough walk-through I've seen. Would I be correct in assuming those ZJ parts will work for my MJ as well?
Absolutely it will work on the comanche, totally forgot to mention that lol.
Watch the progression from his first videos till now. “Happy guy buys a Jeep”
“Hardened heep owner keeps going back for more punishment”
Did the Moog stuff come bare metal? Did you have to paint it ??
Some stuff does, I'd paint it if it does.
Killer info. I’m on this project this week. Were your Moog parts painted ? Mine came in bare metal. I ended up hitting it with rattle can but I suck at painting 😂
Some components do come bare steel so you will need to paint so they don't rust.
I installed a 4” lift on my Grand Wagoneer. Now when I steer full right the wheels turn too sharp, but when I turn full left the wheels barely turn. What’s funny is I still turn the steering wheel 2.5 turns from center both ways. Is the drag link or any other part of the steering too short now? Thanks.
The drag link is most likely too short or too long. If the tie rods connect on the front of the knuckle it would be too short and if they attached behind the knuckle behind the ball joints it would be too long. I would adjust the drag link because it is most likely one Revolution off.
Yes it certainly sounds like the the drag link is too short for the amount of lift you have. I would say that you either need a longer drag link, or a drop / longer Pittman arm on your steering gear box.
Dropped pitman arm, and adjust the main tie rod
Have you tested it out yet? How is the steering now?
So the v8 version steering set will fit zj but 4.0 version?
I got a complete front kit on Amazon for a 1995 ZJ made for a V8 and it has all ball joints upper and lower, drag link, tie rod and sleeves and clamps. Ive not installed it but from my research the kit will also fit a ZJ with a 4.0L as the knuckles are the same on the Dana 30, for both the 6cyl. and the 5.2 and 5.9 from 1993-98. Then in 1999 the WJ had a change with different knuckles to accommodate the 2 piston brake calipers. Anyone please correct me if I'm wrong? I hope this info helps you!
Austin, hey buddy. Actually you are supposed to put the tie rod sleeve clamps so that the bolts are opposite of the splice in the adjusting sleeves, so that it puts less stress on the clamp bolts. If you don't believe me you can check it out in a children's repair manual. But just the same, thank you for the video, and the good tips about the steering components upgrade.
Learn something new everyday, thanks for your input.
You are always trying to help out fellow Jeep owners and mechanics with your tips and videos. Just wanted to repay the favor . Thanks again.
😊will this work for a 89 ,90 xj
Yes it will
Whenever I do any suspension or steering work on my zj I use rough country v8 parts, the 4.0 zj and the xj steering parts are the same, the v8 parts are larger diameter
The v8 steering components are a direct bolt on for the xj, 4.0 zj, and some wranglers
Is that orange XJ your new RIG?
Its red but I'm keeping this one stock and just doing repairs on it. It's too rusty to lift it in my opinion.
That's a shame. Guess you will just have to build that J series pick up. They are pretty cool also. About 20 years ago I had a 1977 Cherokee Chief with the 360 v8, and a 3spd manual transmission. It was a great truck, and a lot of fun to use for wheeling.
Yeah for sure going to restore the J10 to it's glory. Now that I am thinking about it more and talking with companys, I may be putting a lift on the XJ.
Great job.
Question: it may be obvious to some but, will these parts go on a ZJ that is not a V8, as in the inline 6. I need the tie rod, drag link, 4 tie rod ends and the 2 threaded sleeves. Can you confirm Austin exactly?
Yup it should work with all ZJ models as well. You will just need a tie-rod, drag link, 2 adjustment collars, and 2 tie-rod ends that will both be the same size as what is factory at the pit-man arm. The drag link and tie-rod will have the tie-rod-end build into them on one side.
Just wondering "if" you did go through Rock Auto if they will set you up with the correct kit? I have a 93' Grand Cherokee Laredo with the I6 4.0 Does this mean my kit won't be a beefier kit as the V8 models will have?
@@toddrhine7648 If you buy a tie rod from rock auto that is for a 93-98 ZJ that is specifically for a V8, i.e.5.2 or 5.9, then it will be a bigger diameter and will, as a result be stronger. Also, the smaller inline 6 tie rod is hollow, where as the tie rod for the V8 equipped ZJs is a solid metal tie rod and has larger, beefier tie rod ball joints but will still FIT the steering knuckles FOR BOTH ENGINES, as they are the same for both the V8 and I6 with the Dana 30 front axle as far as I know and have looked up in the FSM. Hope this helps.
hey man so I did they same thing you did the 98 ZJ steering upgrade and my steering wheel is completely upside down and I took it to the mechanic and they can’t get it straight. I also put on the adjustable track bar. Any ideas on what went wrong?
Will this process work on a 92 ?
@falkenxx Yes it will, same process and part numbers.
Hey I did this swap a month ago and it seemed like better quality parts, but I hear a popping noise like something is binding when I turn, it's not super rough but it's concerning. Any suggestions?
I would look at the steering move as someone else is turning the wheel and see if you can spot where the noise is coming from. It could also be bad axle U-joints, and you would only hear that while the Jeep is turning and moving at the same time.
It could be that one of the ends of the rods isn't quite bolted down all the way and has some play for a tie rod end to move up and down as you're turning the wheels. Happened to me when I put a lift kit on my XJ and noticed a similar noise every time I'd turn the wheel at a very specific point. I thought I had tightened everything down as much as it would allow for the castle nuts. But I was mistaken. I had someone move the steering wheel while I was underneath looking at the tie rod ends. I noticed one was shifting up & down on my passenger side. I made sure the tie rod end was fully seated in to the knuckle on the passenger wheel, tightened up the castle nut a few more turns, and no more popping or clunking noise.
Check your track bar at the axle and ensure it's tight. I had a pop-under my feet when I turned right in my Xj after I did some work to the front suspension. The track bar was moving side to side when I turned the wheel because it wasn't tight enough.
@@demetrikstrickland463 thanks I'll look into that
Does the passenger side hit the sway bar link? I'm having that problem at full droop
I haven't had any issues. What sway bar and lift are you running on your Jeep? There should not be any clearance issues different to the stock setup. All that is changing is the tie rod.
@@OutJeeping 2 inch lift only, I noticed it when greasing it just from curiosity I lifted it from the crossmember and turned to the right.
So I did this on a 2001 cherokee and the tie rod bottom out and the toe cannot be correct and the steering wheel is off. What did I miss I did this with the parts listed.
Hard to say as far as the tie rod bottoming out, feel free to send a picture via FB or Insta. The steering wheel gets adjusted by adjusting the length of the drag link.
Regrettably I do not have FB my question is can I cut the tie rods down by about an 1" each
@@VWTG100 Possibly but you want to make sure you still have plenty of thread engagement on the adjustment collar. Is the tie rod end and tie rod touching each other inside the collar and the wheels still towed out? Also how does the thread engagement look on the draglink collar?
Is this compatible with a 92’ Cherokee?
Yes it is!
Hey would it be possible for you to put a moog parts list together. Thank you
Just look up on Rock auto for an XJ Drag link setup and a 1998 ZJ 5.2 tierod with a tierod end and adjustment collar, then you should be able to pick whichever brand you want.
Moog DS1312 Tie Rod End
Moog ES2079S Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve
Moog ES3096L Tie Rod End
Moog DS1238 Tie Rod End
How has it been holding up?
So far so good. I just grease the joints every 6 months.
Who won the headlights? Looks good... Stay safe... Have a great day...
I announced that a few weeks ago, I made a post on the Community page.
@@OutJeeping I'll have to look for your community page... Thanks...
Will this work on a1989 jeep Cherokee
Yup it should
I have a 2001 xj. Will the 93-98 zj parts work on mine?
Yes it will!
The MOOG DS1310 drag link is available from Advance Auto Parts for $150!
UPDATE: I just completed this upgrade on my 1986 Jeep Comanche 4x4. The Moog drag link + tie rod end, combined, are too long for a Comanche. You will need to cut off about 3/4" of the threaded end of the drag link so you can center the steering wheel. Currently, with both threaded ends as far into the sleeve as possible, the steering wheel is still pointing about 15° left of center on a straight road.
How come it wont let me order these parts on rock auto
I'm not sure why the links don't have a cart option when you open them up. I would just copy the part number from the link and search for it on their home page.
@@OutJeeping Tried that ...it doesn't work. No cart link & its a nightmare finding parts at the Rock Auto site.
Please get this fixed so we can order easily.
Great video though !!!
Great Content!
I can't find the HD tie rod any link? that link isnt working
Part links are now updated. Sorry for the delay
Can you send me the part numbers I'm trying to do this swap on my Cherokee xj thank you
Part numbers and links are in the description.
Will this work on pre 96 xjs? (Mine is a 91)
Yup, it will work for all years of the XJ.
Excelent job
Nice!
Ditto Yo. My 1994 needs love before it gets on the sand dunes.
Where’s the list of parts needed ?
I have it listed with the links in the description.
Отлично! Молодец!
Приветствую Сергей! Объясните пожалуйста, если не затруднит что это даёт, на что влияет?
@@ДмитрийАлтайский-е8в Так автор рассказывает, что деталь ржавая и плохо позволяет регулировать колеса. Вот он и ставит новое и удобное в плане регулировок. Только я не понял такой момент: это тяги от ZJ или для него, но автор поставил их на XJ.
Спасибо за обратную связь! Да, от зетки они. Думал может они как то на управление иначе влияют, так как английский плохо знаю))
@@ДмитрийАлтайский-е8в включите субтитры и перевод русский, если на компьютере смотрите.)))
@@sergeyzhbanov к сожалению на смартфоне, спасибо за совет!
In 30 years we went from "the expensive ball joints have grease zerts" to now, "the cheap ball joints have grease zerts"...
👍🤝🤠😺
Anyone else having trouble looking up these parts ?
Part links are now updated.
Recommend any other brands? I got all the parts except the inner tie rod going to the pitman arm. Seems to be discontinued..
I don't have a favorite brand for stock replacement parts. There should be many other brands that make the parts on rockauto.