When the blade stops cutting very well you need to replace it. You can also look at the teeth, if they’re rounded or starting to break off or in the case of a metal cutting blade actually worn off then you need to replace it. Wood cutting blade will start to smoke a lot when they become dull. Hope that helps
Hi thanks for the review informative and well delivered . can I just say please don't ignore your own good advice , change the blade unplugged . watching in ENGELDEDLAND THE DISUNITED KINGDOM
Hi , great video nice close up on the blade changing . I changed the blade yesterday to a non bosch cheaper blade and now i cant get it to release :/ .When I first tried to change the blade it took a while before I could release blade , now it wont budge no matter how i try ,what am I doing wrong ? Thanks :)
I had the same problem. Just fasten the blade keeper clip and cut a small piece with it (just run it for 5 seconds) then try again and the blade can be easily removed. I don't know why this happens but it solved my problem more than once
Thank you for the review. Can you help me figure out what’s the difference between this saw and the GSA-120? I know that there is the additional 100W but is there any other diff? Thanks.
No rafter hook on the gsa 120. Other than that I don’t know since I don’t have one but from the picture I saw I’d say you’re better off with the GSA 1100
Not really, the Bosch is a great saw, nice and simple with a heavy build. I do like Makita tools though. The 100w difference is probably not going to be that noticeable. I don’t have any experience with a Makita reciprocating saw yet.
@@kyoadam1593 If the brushes need to be replaced you would have to take the handle apart to replace them, not a big job but more than just unscrewing the two caps and replacing the brushes.
now am between two choices gsa1100 (1.1kw 3.6 Kgs case) and stanley (0.9kw 3.1 Kgs). Both brushed can you help me make a dicision plz if you re familiar with both products
NO. in comparison it is far better get the equivalent Skil Masters 4950MA 1050W and spare around 50€. In the end you have a better tool. Spare part brushes are equally not available, perhaps for some reasons in UK paying an arm and a leg. This model has a progressive trigger and a second contact noisy safety. Skil has an rpm wheel selector and a simple trigger way more practical to use especially with gloves. About intensive users booth fatigue severely hand with their high recoil vibrations, but between the two Bosch blue is the worst and also uncomfortable because the safety is not easy to maneuver wearing gloves. About metal stamped soles they are equal and must be booth modified with a pass through bolt and nut because factory rivets went loose and useless. About the blade attachment clamp on bosch the little axe coiling the spring of the release lever broke and also the coil spring modified again with a little bolt and nut... and a new DIY made spring.
This may be a damn fool question, but is there any quick way to tell when the blade needs replacing ?
When the blade stops cutting very well you need to replace it. You can also look at the teeth, if they’re rounded or starting to break off or in the case of a metal cutting blade actually worn off then you need to replace it. Wood cutting blade will start to smoke a lot when they become dull. Hope that helps
Hi thanks for the review informative and well delivered . can I just say please don't ignore your own good advice , change the blade unplugged . watching in ENGELDEDLAND
THE DISUNITED KINGDOM
Hi , great video nice close up on the blade changing . I changed the blade yesterday to a non bosch cheaper blade and now i cant get it to release :/ .When I first tried to change the blade it took a while before I could release blade , now it wont budge no matter how i try ,what am I doing wrong ? Thanks :)
I had the same problem. Just fasten the blade keeper clip and cut a small piece with it (just run it for 5 seconds) then try again and the blade can be easily removed. I don't know why this happens but it solved my problem more than once
Thanks for watching! I've never had this problem.
So investing in Makita 3070 👑 is the best at this time 👍
I do like Makitas and if I was to buy another reciprocating saw I’d buy a Makita, thank you for watching.
Thank you for the review. Can you help me figure out what’s the difference between this saw and the GSA-120? I know that there is the additional 100W but is there any other diff? Thanks.
No rafter hook on the gsa 120. Other than that I don’t know since I don’t have one but from the picture I saw I’d say you’re better off with the GSA 1100
Thank You!
We're torn between this and the Makita JR3051TK, seems the Makita is a little more powerful at 1200W, any advice on which to go for?
Not really, the Bosch is a great saw, nice and simple with a heavy build. I do like Makita tools though. The 100w difference is probably not going to be that noticeable. I don’t have any experience with a Makita reciprocating saw yet.
I'm in the same position. The Budget 700w Bosch saw I bought is a bit gutless, so I need something more powerful.
Can it resaw a wooden plane?
I don’t see why not, thanks for watching
Hi nice hair, is it brushed or brushless
Like most corded tools it has a brushed motor. Thank you for watching.
@@toolreviewsandrestorations aren t know it look different from gsa 120 which has to black spot in both sides for external replacement of brushers
@@kyoadam1593 If the brushes need to be replaced you would have to take the handle apart to replace them, not a big job but more than just unscrewing the two caps and replacing the brushes.
now am between two choices gsa1100 (1.1kw 3.6 Kgs case) and stanley (0.9kw 3.1 Kgs).
Both brushed can you help me make a dicision plz if you re familiar with both products
I’m not familiar with the Stanley.
Demiri kesmiyormu
Angry Grandpa’s sawzall!
NO. in comparison it is far better get the equivalent Skil Masters 4950MA 1050W and spare around 50€. In the end you have a better tool.
Spare part brushes are equally not available, perhaps for some reasons in UK paying an arm and a leg.
This model has a progressive trigger and a second contact noisy safety.
Skil has an rpm wheel selector and a simple trigger way more practical to use especially with gloves.
About intensive users booth fatigue severely hand with their high recoil vibrations, but between the two Bosch blue is the worst and also uncomfortable because the safety is not easy to maneuver wearing gloves.
About metal stamped soles they are equal and must be booth modified with a pass through bolt and nut because factory rivets went loose and useless.
About the blade attachment clamp on bosch the little axe coiling the spring of the release lever broke and also the coil spring modified again with a little bolt and nut... and a new DIY made spring.
Light is always on- no matter you use it or not.
This is a minus for me.