Lee, For those occasions when you will be drilling with that De Walt, for safety purposes screw a longer pipe into where the handle is now. Use that pipe as a brace against a wall or I have also used a large clamp. It will save some broken bones. Thanks for your simple solve for annular cutters into drill chucks. Bill
If you design a spring into your adapter it will aid in keeping the annular cutter from drifting at the start of a new hole as well as provide ejection of the remaining plug. I have used these for years and also have an R8 adapter for the mill.
Hello Lee, I have been wanting a mag drill for decades but like you I couldn't justify the huge expense for the time I would use it. Recently I saw a video where the guy said he had just bought one by evo for a reasonable price. On amazon it went as low as $225. Well I thought this is attractive so I looked some more. I found a chinese (aren't they all anyway?) one for $70! An Evo also. Then I saw another with a bit better capacity for $85 delivered! For that price I have to gamble. So I ordered one a few days ago. We will see. I bought a small set of annular cutters several years ago and did the same project you are doing so I could use them in my press. I have a Milwaukee Hole Hawg which I bought in the seventies. That is a serious machine which can easily break you arm as it has no clutch. The professional Black and Decker came out with the Timberwolf which was the first with a clutch a couple of years later and I sure wished I had it when drilling large holes up in the floor joists etc. Those drill motors without that clutch were an attention getting device!! Drilling thick metal when it exits the hole on the bottom it wants to grab anyway. Used on the floor with a good pipe handle not so bad used on metal or in the stud bays and joist bays watch out! Take care. Doug
Lee, why didn't you remove the Jacobs, and screw your adapter in? You would gain the length of the Jacobs chuck for drilling clearance those 2-flat shanks are called Weldon shanks
I made one of these last spring to work in a 3/4 collet on a milling machine. I spring loaded the ejector pin... it works very well for any metal 1/2" thick or less. With modifications ou could make one to work for thicker plate.
I had the same type of deal last year too, on a mill/drill....making a table for a bender machine ( hossfeld bender). The Er 32 collet worked , but i had trouble finding speeds for them.....i did figure out high speeds are best... 3/4" ~2200rmp
yeah i thought the same....but worked fine and still sharp, i thought to run it like an end mill thats when i dulled it(.slow) just Keep It Lubricanted , i used regular motor oil, burns up fast but reasonable cheap and i put a small rod next to the cutter to break the bird nest
To safely drill 1/2"holes in awkward spots I take a 1/2"drill bit to the grinder and make it into a counterbore tool. The remaining centre becomes the pilot and I carefully set the relief angle of the now flattened wing cutters so the drill won't bite. It is similar to the flat bottom dril Lee used. The only issue I have found is that the bits grow legs.
The little hex bolt tightens the bit. What is that called ? My slugger is missing those bolts. I can not tie in the bits .. thank you I could not find that online
I realise I'm rather late to the party but if you wanted to use that adaptor in your mill couldn't you cut a slot along the length of it on both sides? That way when you want to knock out the slug with the 'guide pin' you could knock a piece of angled metal through the slot and knock out the pin. Rather like how a morse taper adaptor has a slot for the same reason. Nice video though, I think I'll have to make something similar as annular cutters are really useful but this will help to set them up in a drill press rather than faffing around with a mag drill!
I like your build on this and am intersted in an adapter my own self but was curious if you think you could drill a smaller hole in the core than what you did with enough clearance for the plug pin to fit in and then drill a hole above it that would be like a grub screw hole but use it for hitting with air pressure to push the plugs out? I was just thinking that once you get to working on your project it might take less time if you can push the plugs out with air pressure rather than having to remove the drill bit (which might happen a fair amount). Just curious if you think that could work or if it would not be air tight enough. I'm interested for your project but also with idea of making an adapter of my own down the road. Thanks!
Lee, For those occasions when you will be drilling with that De Walt, for safety purposes screw a longer pipe into where the handle is now. Use that pipe as a brace against a wall or I have also used a large clamp. It will save some broken bones. Thanks for your simple solve for annular cutters into drill chucks. Bill
If you design a spring into your adapter it will aid in keeping the annular cutter from drifting at the start of a new hole as well as provide ejection of the remaining plug. I have used these for years and also have an R8 adapter for the mill.
great idea! essentially using the steel blade as an impromptu hand scraper
Hello Lee, I have been wanting a mag drill for decades but like you I couldn't justify the huge expense for the time I would use it. Recently I saw a video where the guy said he had just bought one by evo for a reasonable price. On amazon it went as low as $225. Well I thought this is attractive so I looked some more. I found a chinese (aren't they all anyway?) one for $70! An Evo also. Then I saw another with a bit better capacity for $85 delivered! For that price I have to gamble. So I ordered one a few days ago. We will see. I bought a small set of annular cutters several years ago and did the same project you are doing so I could use them in my press. I have a Milwaukee Hole Hawg which I bought in the seventies. That is a serious machine which can easily break you arm as it has no clutch. The professional Black and Decker came out with the Timberwolf which was the first with a clutch a couple of years later and I sure wished I had it when drilling large holes up in the floor joists etc. Those drill motors without that clutch were an attention getting device!! Drilling thick metal when it exits the hole on the bottom it wants to grab anyway. Used on the floor with a good pipe handle not so bad used on metal or in the stud bays and joist bays watch out! Take care. Doug
Lee, why didn't you remove the Jacobs, and screw your adapter in?
You would gain the length of the Jacobs chuck for drilling clearance
those 2-flat shanks are called Weldon shanks
Lee thanks it is great info for now people 👏
I made one of these last spring to work in a 3/4 collet on a milling machine. I spring loaded the ejector pin... it works very well for any metal 1/2" thick or less. With modifications ou could make one to work for thicker plate.
I had the same type of deal last year too, on a mill/drill....making a table for a bender machine ( hossfeld bender). The Er 32 collet worked , but i had trouble finding speeds for them.....i did figure out high speeds are best... 3/4" ~2200rmp
I used it on 11/16th plate......first try i got about 15 holes....second still sharp with over 20 holes done. Amazing
@@mrjohnnydrinkard322 2200 wow? I think the mag drills run about 450?
yeah i thought the same....but worked fine and still sharp, i thought to run it like an end mill thats when i dulled it(.slow) just Keep It Lubricanted , i used regular motor oil, burns up fast but reasonable cheap and i put a small rod next to the cutter to break the bird nest
Thanks for sharing. I had one from a old R8 tool holder into a annular holder it works well also.
nice job lee.mag drills are a nice shop addition.
To safely drill 1/2"holes in awkward spots I take a 1/2"drill bit to the grinder and make it into a counterbore tool. The remaining centre becomes the pilot and I carefully set the relief angle of the now flattened wing cutters so the drill won't bite. It is similar to the flat bottom dril Lee used. The only issue I have found is that the bits grow legs.
Very nice result. Thanks for sharing
Great video Lee. Merry Christmas
Nice job Lee! I need to make one of those soon.
I think that the modern welding table clamps and pins use 5/16 - 16 mm holes. Neat gizmos. What size annular cutter will you be using?
Neat idea. Good use of stock.
NICE ONE MR LEE, HAVE A GOOD XMAS REGARDS RICHARD.
The little hex bolt tightens the bit. What is that called ? My slugger is missing those bolts. I can not tie in the bits .. thank you I could not find that online
I always drill a hole the size of the pilot as a guide and you dont end up with the plug and theres less chance of the cutter walking
Cool work sir thank you very much 👏👍✋
I realise I'm rather late to the party but if you wanted to use that adaptor in your mill couldn't you cut a slot along the length of it on both sides? That way when you want to knock out the slug with the 'guide pin' you could knock a piece of angled metal through the slot and knock out the pin. Rather like how a morse taper adaptor has a slot for the same reason. Nice video though, I think I'll have to make something similar as annular cutters are really useful but this will help to set them up in a drill press rather than faffing around with a mag drill!
How about going to a rental outfit for the drill? Oops- too late! Merry Christmas and thanks for this video.
Nice mod , good idea.
Lee, where did you get a collet chuck from for the Precision Matthews lathe? I have a 10-30 and was told by the folks at PM none was available.
Very nice 👍
They make those for reducing the outer diameter of rifle barrels. How much fo you want for one that has a 3/8 shank?
Hello lee great video. I am looking for a holder like you made. Would you be willing to make me one that I could purchase from you. Thanks
can I buy one
can you make me one of these adapters? How much?
Like to buy one if possible
brits call them rotter broches son , les England
I've got a larger Dewalt drill with gear reduction and it will tie you in a knot if it hangs... you don't want to go there.
You could have welded the anvil to the table.
Merry Xmas Lee. I use a much bigger version of these if you care to take a look on my channel. I've subscribed to you. 👍
ok
Vovó do Fravinho Maria Gabriela Vitor Sebastião Neto e LEVI.
I like your build on this and am intersted in an adapter my own self but was curious if you think you could drill a smaller hole in the core than what you did with enough clearance for the plug pin to fit in and then drill a hole above it that would be like a grub screw hole but use it for hitting with air pressure to push the plugs out? I was just thinking that once you get to working on your project it might take less time if you can push the plugs out with air pressure rather than having to remove the drill bit (which might happen a fair amount). Just curious if you think that could work or if it would not be air tight enough. I'm interested for your project but also with idea of making an adapter of my own down the road. Thanks!