Make Your Own Outrigger Vise Stop
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- This detailed video shows the step by step fabrication of a very versatile and strong vise stop. Its long, but a great 'True" tutorial on how its made. Take a look. I'll soon put the plans on my website, under the plans tab.
Referenced 4 jaw video: • Clever way to indicate...
Related video: • Mill Accessories you C...
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The bonus material was worth the extra few seconds! Thank you. I can never get too many belly laughs.
I definitely enjoy the DIY videos such as this one. I wouldnt mind seeing more of them. You end up showing more useful tips and tricks along the way than you know.
Thanks. This one had a bunch.
Stopped the video at 33:36 and ordered a Fowler tap guide. Slowly working my way to have all the cool tools that Joe has!! Also, as soon as I saw the finished stop bolted to the vice I thought why not have the round feature on both ends of the piece that bolts to the back of the vice, it would look like a vice with handlebars and be twice as useful.
Thats a great observation.
Tools making tools... the best kind of tutorials. Especially with the blooper at the end. I was kind of wondering if the DTI got whacked...
I completed mine yesterday, turned out very well. Thanks for the excellent tutorial!
Thanks Joe, another masterclass! I changed vices recently and my old stop doesn't fit, you've given me some ideas...
What a great video! I'm all set on vise stops for now, but I love how you work SS and the tips on the different grades. Thanks Joe!
Thanks for checking in Guy. Stay well.
I place my splits to favor the head side of the bolt hole allowing more teeth for the anchor end. It works fine and I've never stripped threads!
Or use a longer screw?
Thanks for the great video Joe! Learned a lot! Especially the tips for working with stainless.
Thanks Joe, I will be making one for my 688 very soon.
Its really solid. You'll like it.
Good timing, this is one of the things on my to do list. Might use knurled screws so I don't need an allen wrench though.
Knurled screw may not give you enough pressure if you bump parts. Be careful.
Naturally we love the clock! the Probe tip might turn on a back light or fore light on the clock intensity. It driving a POT that delivers the power to the LED lamp. :-)
It should advance or retard the clock time. that would be awesome.
Joe Pieczynski your employees would always set it ahead! You’d have to alarm it at minimum! (Would be really cool if you could adjust for daylight savings time with that probe!)
Thanks Joe another great build with lots of time saving techniques. Would love to see how you finish the ends odf shortened threads e.g. Setscrews and all thread, I always seem to end up with annoying burrs.
Screw a nut on first, modify the end, dust it lightly on a sander or hard scotch brite wheel and unscrew the nut.
Thanks I must get one of those deburring wheels as you urged to me to in that video about them. Stay safe. Tony
Great project. I am working on it now.
Good luck!
Imbalance comes mostly from the heavy steel displaced jaw. This gives an idea on how much counterbalance is needed if required.
How do you attach a counterbalance to a chuck? Is there an old machinist’s trick?
The blooper at the end made the video!
I would like to slow down the sound & hear what he really said Lol
Thanks. run at 2X I sound like an ewok from star wars. The indicator survived just fine.
Go half speed.
Simply beautiful!👍👍👍👍👍
Its a nice addition to the toolbox.
At about the 6:20 mark, after picking up the edges of the part by bumping it into the shim and the pin, I didn't hear you account for the thickness of the shim when explaining how far to move to the hole location. Was that because you weren't concerned about a couple of thousandths, or am I missing something?
Joe just got myself a cnc Lathe what coolant are you using please, only used it once and fining my tools in the holders getting surface rust on can you cover this in one of your videos please,
best regards
Dave from the UK
GREAT VIDEO AGAIN
Dave, I use Trim-Sol. Its a water soluble oil mixed at about 10% ratio.
"I Love This Bar"
And "Jack Daniels kicked my ass again last night"
Hi Joe, I visited the plans section of the Advanced Innovations website, and wasn't able to find a copy of the plans for this Outrigger Vise Stop. Is it possible to get a link to the plans? Thanks in advance, and I hope your weekend is starting out well! ^____^
Did you notice that when you broke through that last cut with the bandsaw,
It looked like the opening. opened up a fraction of a inch
Would that mean the surface of that item would not be perfectly flat, and the gap would have a taper.
For the application, a taper gap, if present, wouldn't hurt anything. The clamp screw will return it to where it belongs at use. Surface and material stress can do that on a lot of materials. I would think the outer surface would see the most curvature when material moves.
@@joepie221 I agree, but just wanted to notice if you had observed that had happened, and i was not sure if it actually did happen, and might be a warning for myself if some time in the future I happened to be building something where it could happen,
Hey Joe, how did you make the bent rod? I don't have a bender 😕
I actually pinched them in a vise and put a pipe on the rods to bend them.
@@joepie221 oh interesting, thanks. I'm guessing you put some packing in to hold the bar to make the second bend? Maybe good for a quick video 😁 that seems like a handy trick in general.
OK, time to get off my a.. and make one. THANK YOU.
Apparently you can never have enough vises.
If you "unloosen" (36:29) something, aren't you making it tighter? :-) Enjoyed the video!
Long running inside joke with Joe ...
Unloosen ? Doesnt that mean to Tighten ? lol I know its a Texas Okie Thing I hear people say that all the time instead of Loosen .Great Video Joe I do like the way you show efficiency in tool changing .
FINALLY someone on you tube showed way protection with a wood block on RUclips!! You are to be congratulated. Might be a sign he knows something RUclips viewers. Might want to pay attention as I use to tell my students.
Thanks for the support. When the chucks start getting bigger, A cradle or drop board is a very good idea.
@@joepie221 When I brought my new lathe home in 1993 to start my business, I made a lathe board before I did the first job. EVERY time something heavy goes in or out of the chuck the board goes on the ways.
Great vise stop. Very well made thanks for the video. I got a couple of vise stops but only one vise.
Great video! Really love the narration of how things can go wrong. Advice on the tool pressure against the large holes, even the comment not to cut through the threads which would seem obvious to a machinist but not to a newbie. I watched many hours of yours and other machining videos years ago and bought a lathe and mill and made parts literally the the day I set them up. Your videos are by far the best for learning how to make things come out right. There is no casual watching on your videos, yours are like a master class, notes and attention and sometimes even a calculator are required. I can't express how much I appreciate your selfless contribution to the trade through your videos.
Thank you. I take great pride in the material present.
A great video. Covers stock cutting, drilling, tapping, 3-jaw and 4-jaw lathe chuck, and boring on the lathe, as well as using a stop in the mill vise. . A lot of really useful information. + Thanks for taking the time to video and post. +
Thanks for watching. This one was loaded with tips.
Speaking of eliminating a tool or operation - the part that attaches to the back of the vise could be made of a round stock. Instead of turning square stock into a round, mill a flat surface on one side of the round then drill mounting holes after milling operation while the rod is still clamped in the vise?
Also, if using standard rod diameter the holes could be quickly reamed instead of boring to size on the lathe?
I do get that this is an educational video (a very nice one at that) and more complicated design is an opportunity to show a few different techniques and tips. But you mentioned eliminating tools is a good thing and those two thoughts came to my mind and I am curious about your opinion. I have to make a vise stop soon so I will try to make it from a round stock and see if I get something useful.
I think that square looks better, but I'd have to see it round to be sure. I would have used a reamer in the mill, as you suggest. The only thing is that you would have to use an end mill and that is another tool too. I know that he milled a flat and would need an end mill for that.
I use a lot of BT40 tool holders and I don't have a fancy quick change, so I have to do it by hand. If I can avoid a change then I do. I wonder if I could upgrade my old mill for faster tool changes.
I'm thinking about using a round bar and I'm starting to agree with you.
Best wishes.
Andrew George Joe’s design does look nice.
My comment was an exercise in simplification.
Plus I have a bunch of off cuts of precision ground rods in the shop but no square stock of suitable size :-)
Hi Joe,
I learnt lots on today's video, I liked the logic the proportions of the component parts. Thank you.
Take care
Paul,,
I know not everyone is a Facebook user but all my shop activity is on my public access Facebook page Edward A Loftis.
I have found that all SS fasteners from a hardware store are 304/18-8 food grade. I made a replacement part for my French press from that.
Joe, Wow that second saw kerf unlosened the stress form that part a couple or three thousands of an inch.
It certainly looked that way on the video. I'll have to inspect it to be sure.
I don't have a DRO or CNC. Everything is by eye and measurement.
There are very few "RUclips" machinists that I would want to spend a day in the shop with to learn stuff like this from, and you are at the top of my list. I would be happy to sweep your floor 😄
I started in the hobby quite late in life and have had to cram as many bits of knowledge as possible into my thickening head as fast as possible. You have been an integral source of what have learned, and just wanted to thank you and encourage you to keep up the great work.
Every few months, i go through Joes vids, most often, i rewatch those i already saw a few times... The amount of high caliber shit he lays in his vids is amazing... Whats more amazing and much worse is how easy it is to forget some of his tips and tricks, which is why i rewatch Joe`s stuff every so often... You sir sure are right when you claim Joe to be admirable as a teacher and a machinist...
Thank you both for your support.
@GutPyle Glad to help.
Excellent video. One thing I did differently is rather than drill and tap the rod that holds the stop, I bored and tapped a cap that fit over it. I then drilled a crossing hole through the cap and one through the rod. This allows me to fit any stop without having to mill a flat to account for any metal deformation on said stop. The stop is put through the cap and rod. When the screw in the cap is tightened it clamps the stop between the holes. Many indicator set ups use this same scheme.
very useful.
I used Anchorlube yesterday when making sizeable bores on 1018 steel. It makes vapors, not smoke. Soon, within an hour of using it, I noticed that all parts of my lathe near the work were turning brown. My chuck, jaws, the 1018 workpiece, the ways...ALL the metal was turning brown. I cleaned it with 1500 emory, WD-40, Scothbright, and managed to scrub away most of stain. I then finished the job using both Tap Magic, and the new THICK Tap Magic. They smoke like crazy, but I've never had a problem with them before. This morning all the parts are stained again. It is uniformly distributed on all surfaces, and only a vapor deposition can do that. So...one of these cutting lubes is fuming and or smoking and messing up my lathe. HAVE YOU SEEN SIMILAR PROBLEMS???
Yes. I learned the hard way to clean up any splashed anchor lube immediately after using it. I spray my parts with ISO alcohol and haven't seen stained parts yet, but the ways on my lathe weren't so lucky.
@@joepie221 THANK YOU, JOE. That stuff should not be sold. I didn't use much of it, but the vapor apparently penetrates metal crystal boundaries and lingers. I cleaned with alcohol last night and thought that would do it, but this AM everything was worse than before I cleaned yesterday. Whatever happens when the stuff vaporizes, it's nasty. I spent two hours recleaning this AM. Wonder what tomorrow will bring. THANKS AGAIN.
I would like to see a video on your chamfer tool. Looks to be shop made
This video is a goldmine of very useful ideas! Thanks Joe.
That was a whole bunch of great tips. Thank you Joe. You are the best 👍
An abundance of very good advice. Thanks Joe for your knowledge and the time it takes to make all these videos to help us in our shops. You would make a very good teacher in becoming a machinist.
Dear Sir, You produce some great video content, thank you for sharing your extensive skills with us. Please carry on making these video`s many thanks
I plan to. Thanks.
The 'hanger'is a very dangerous thing. I've drilled hundreds of holes and still got bit by one recently. It whipped out wide and grabbed my thumb, pulled it into the job and the spiral cut cut deep before it let go. A significant amount of claret spilled with a decent flap of skin hanging loose. I was relieved it happened to me and not to one of my students.
I only have a 4 jaw I use on my rotary table ( round about) I don't have a lathe.😢
I have not purchased a lathe nor do I have any experience other than watching videos. So, not completely understanding machinist terms, if I unloosen something, am I snugging up the part?
When I saw the end with the rare bonus features, I spit my tea all over the computer screen. Keep making chips Joe!!! Great video!!!
I had considered editing that out, but the 2X voice was too good to leave behind. It sounded like a drunk ewok from star wars.
What a safe way to counter balance 4 jaw?
You can also pick up center with a pointed tap in a 6-inch scale, balancing the scale on the part and holding it down with the tap in the spindle
Yeah agree with comment below lots good tips throughout. Also by far the best machining channel I’ve seen. Speed is perfect. Too many channels bang on about a load of bolloxs and takes ages to get to the point.
I couldn’t agree more. It’s easily the best machining & engineering channel. And when Joe does do the talking bits it’s always interesting & there’s something to learn. The others just seem to waffle on about inane stuff of absolutely no interest.
In fact, when I see Joe’s put out a long video I’m always more pleased & look forward to settling down to watch it. The shorter ones are still great, but you can’t beat a good hour of Joe Pie on RUclips.
Would a parallel in between the part and chuck due any good?
Great vlog Joe, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for Your educational videos.
They are of great use.
Q: At 43:15, You comment on not leaving the gauge pin in the part, it might be a part of the chuck. What don’t I understand there?
The part is under compression when he bored it, if you loosen the chuck jaws it reduces the compression might go slightly out of round, therefore tightening on opposite sides to the jaws compression preventing you from now removing the gauge pin. If you force it you will damage it, so remove it first.
I meant to say" part of the part'
Great vid. Kiwi English says un at the front of a word makes the meaning opposite. Texan must be different. Noticed when you cut the second slot it popped open. Are there stresses in the material that causes that? Nice to know that factoid about the 303. I use SS screws for some types of workholding on my CNC machine for timber. No matter how careful you think you have been, occasionally I nick one. They are soft enough for the carbide cutters to go through unlike normal steel screws. That redistributes the cutter all around the machine.
👍 , nice project . Making ones own tools results in a lot of satisfaction. 😊 !
It truly does. This is a great and useful project.
I really like that clock. Maybe make a few for sale?
Another master class. Thanks Joe
Cool job as always Joe. TFS, G :)
You can thin it with water rust will happen.
Good project Joe, I’ll certainly be making one or four of these. One day I might even make something that’s not a shop tool/accessory.
I have always used a center drill.
Joe, it seems a few people are confused by your use of the term "unloosen". They may be interested to know the term goes back to the 1300's when blacksmiths often made ambihelical hexnuts to secure parts in agricultural equipment like cultivators, hay balers, and hog carts. Ambihelical hexnuts were each handmade and had the interesting property of having to be completely screwed on before they could be screwed off and, no matter which way it was turned, it tightened. Therefore, it made no sense to say, "loosen the ambihelical hexnut". Thus the term "unloosen" came into common use when referring to ambihelical hexnuts because that clearly indicated that the hexnut was indeed ambihelical and would have to be completely tightened before it could be removed. Like many words over the years, its true meaning was lost, and machinists trained by the descendants of the machining/blacksmithing guilds came to use it to simply mean unscrew the damn nut. 😜
I made a vise stop like yours for my little Kurt D-30 after I first saw yours. It is indeed a must-have. Great tutorial.
Using the word 'Unloosen' is very common in the northeastern US. I still use it and actually enjoy how it fires people up when I do. It's going to stay around. thanks for the history.
@@joepie221 Hi Joe. This guy is pulling your leg. The ambihelical hexnut is an impossible figure. Mathworld.wolfram.com has an image of one.
@@alanclarke4646 LOL, I'm sure Joe knows that. He's a puzzle-maker, and the ambihelical hexnut is an old gag to pull on apprentices. 😁
Great tip on using a round bar to get close when centering a square piece in the four jaw chuck. Thanks
Saves some fussing around.
As always great video. When you used the sharpie to mark the reference corner would it be better to use a different colour so that a novice would not get confused at which corner to reference off even though it may seem obvious, some projects may not be quite as obvious as this one. This from a total novice working with metal as wood is my normal medium
Beautiful work. We posted this video on our homemade tools forum this week :)
Awesome! Thank you!
@@joepie221 You're very welcome. Feel free to email me at "jon" at our website url, and I'll give you a coupon code so you can join our forum for free and post your videos whenever you want. Looks like you're one of us :)
Perfect job as always Joe
I like the approach. Thanks for sharing another great project. I already had a Lipton style of stop, but you had a ton of great tips. If I lived locally, I would volunteer to work for you for free, jut to learn a tiny fraction of what you have to share. By the way, I think Stan is a reseller for Anchor Lube.
No no, I volunteered months ago. I get to work for Joe for free.
40:42 Why should the tool pressure be lower near the front of the hole?
Chris Armstrong Only because he had bored the front of the hole a little bigger so the smaller pin would “go”. So the next full length bore had a little more tool pressure on the smaller bore size.
@@macsmachine2609 Thanks. I missed that bit.
Hi Joe. Now this is a really nice project & in Stainless makes it super Impressive. I made my stops in alloy, which work really well, but lets be honest they don't compare with your professionalism. Be safe & Catch you on the next project :)
Always a pleasure Joe. No stainless but lots of GR 8 bolts up to 2 in.
Wow. What are they Used for?
@@joepie221 I was a logging equip Welder, Fabricator/Machinist for nearly 20 years. The deal was NEVER re-use any fastener.I don't recall any fastener failures over the years Everyone was torqued (even 1/4 in) and of course stretched in the process. The used ones went into 5 gal pails. If you could pack them out the door from 1/2 way in the shop they were yours. I got 5 pails over the years and used many in the machine shop to make all sorts of things. As you know they have a nice carbon content and take basic rosebud (acc/oxy) heating and used gear oil quenching for many tools etc. I am sure I saved thousands of $ over the years. Thanks for the reply my friend. Now in retirement I pour pure silver to keep myself busy. Drop by if you like.Take care eh ! (Yep I am Canadian from N Central BC, LOL)
Pure GOLD....... brilliant nuggets everywhere. Saving this to my machining refresher playlist. Thank you Joe 🙏
Did the test indicator survived? Hoping yes!
It did. That was very unexpected.
Even when I am well serviced with multiple vice stop types, hey, it's Joe Pie...
I always learn something from Joe Pie...
So, I watch every video you do,
And I learn, I see, I look behind the scene, stuff.
Thank you, Joe, for sharing.
Joe, I can’t believe I missed this old episode. I just want to again say how much I appreciate how you’ve thoughtfully explained everything you did, including the design details for various features. All the best to you….. Joel. 👍😎👍
Joe it never hurts to have to many VICES. 😜
#5 is on the manual mill. My other vices don't get video'd very often.
I've built 100's among 100's of clamps, stops and fixtures in my shop including clamps for my production parts that go onto some of my products. After all my years of machining both CNC and Manually I still love to periodically look at your videos. A note for some of those starting out, & doing repeated processes, Get a fat blue sharpie and mark 1 end of your stock (and a small hint of marker on the top surface if you want)so that as you take the part out and reposition it for next step, you always know the way the part went in vice. When you flip a part, & let's say you drop it then you always know which way in sat in the vice. Especially great if you do 1 step at a time for many many many same parts that will have another tooling operation.
Joe thats cool just ordered up some bar stock will let you know how I get on, keep them coming, she,e I don't live near I would never be away lol
Superb...
You never use superlatives.
You always say nice, good, neat etc. That's so good for a dedicated job. Kudos...
Ey up! Joe nice one i love it,thanks for sharing, I am not sure stainless is the best choice whist its strong and corrosion resistant and (Expensive) it is notorious for tearing and galling on sliding fits and screw threads that are regularly screwed up and undone repeatedly without the use of an anti galling compound. the design is excellent. I will make one and probably use EN24T and O1 rod for the shaft,and maybe heat treat it.
Thanks for video! As always a great learning experience. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve watched it but I learn something each time. I just watched a video where the machinist found a .001 error in the thickness of his parallels. It appeared to be a surprise to the operator. You obviously trust yours but is that a reason to buy quality parallels?
Very useful Joe! I have made some interesting stuff, mostly taught by people like you sharing their experience. Thank You!!
I have watched this video several times because you give critical information for designing clamping features that I have used many times and always been successful. Thank you
Hi Joe, how would you cut a quarter of a torus on a manual mill?
I make those all the time...
Such a simple looking tool/jig but you have included some very valuable tips in the process. Thanks for all the videos. Happy machining.
Nice project. I will probably have to modify my vice to have a flat surface on the back of it before I make one of those... Or get a new vice, of course... ;)
Top notch
Seems like we come from the same school of old timers experience and years Joe. Just wish my hands and eyes worked like they did in my younger years but hey, I guess it just comes with age....LOL
Hi Joe,
Just got around to watching this video. Thanks for the shout out. We are delighted you like the boring bar. We are very close to having a 3/4" version available that I believe will be even nicer.
Steve
Steve, shoot me an e-mail please advancedinnovationsllc@gmail.com
@@joepie221 Just shot you an email.
Steve
just made one, like you say nice quick project and handy. in the past ive used all sort of contraptions and fixtures. finally you prompted me to make one.... Thanks
I have a similar commercially made stop. Your's has some better features like the stop rod. I need to make some new parts to match.
Finally got around to making one, I should have made time for it way sooner, I’m already saving time using it- Thanks Joe.
You have helped me so much in this hobby . Thank you for the ideas and tips .
Tried to post a picture in the comments of the one I built from your creation but I can’t figure it out lol .
Glad to help.
Cool tool.
This was a good one Joe, I became very aware of several things that I had not thought of before... very helpful, thank you Joe!
Another great project and video. I am curious why you chose to use the lathe for to bore the block. Wouldn't it be easier on the mill?
Could possibly make the block that mounts to the back of the vice and the rod portion of that part two pieces. Thread the block and the end of the rod, then screw them together. Allows for different length rods if needed, or no rod at all without removing the block.