Thanks for reaching out, I'm Glad it helped, yeah post filming this I've realised it's easier to go the longer way, pop the drive shaft cover and move the motor away so the teeth don't engage then install the centre diff on the splines first and line the drive shaft up,
Just done my front diff thx to your video, already done centre when stripped spurr so just need to do the rear, thx so much for sharing content like this is perfect for me as a newbie 👍👍
I'm happy to hear it's been of use, yeah the spur is the Achilles heel of the car due to the mount system but my top tip is to check the gear mesh monthly it takes 5 minutes compared to an hour rebuilding the car
thanks, yes the chassis is the same the only changes for the v2 are cosmetic (the mt8 style body and the removal of the side step/ exhaust nerf bars on the sides of the chassis)
Great video ,the only one i found who disassemble all diffs. This will be very helpful for a lot of people! It was hard to see but how much oil should i use? :)
Thanks I'm glad it helped, it just needs to cover the spider gears (literally just) much more and you've got a sticky mess to clean up and you can accidentally dislodge the seal (which was the case with my partners mt10 from the factory)
they are jetko tomahawks, 2.8" belted, they are great tyres i've had them on almost 2 years now and honestly they've barely worn and that's even running on tarmac and gravel, the best part about them are the removable center hex (those 6 allen heads hold the hub in so if you have one come loose or the hub gets damaged the wheel isn't written off ) and the center hub is available in 12, 14 and 17mm hex so you can use the wheels on any car but the only issue there is that i've found that's the extra weight does wear the hub bearings quickly so they become a point to check
Hello, what set of good quality screwdrivers can you recommend that allows me to extract the differentials, tires, drive shafts, drive shafts, change servo, change to RPM arms and for all the basic actions to keep the Rival MT10 operational? The size of the hexagonal pieces needed would be 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, and 3.0 to be able to disassemble the entire car? Additionally, could you recommend a set of screws to have as a reserve for the Rival MT10 since it seems to me that the ones that come are somewhat fragile.
@@WidmanEncarnacionArellano I've just got a cheap set from an Amazon return reseller for my impact driver (used for extraction only) and a set of Aldi Allen keys for the manual stuff but wiera drivers are good although I am looking at the I-fixit driver kits as they have a lifetime warranty for both the standard and micro drivers
Thanks for the questions, thicker in the center helps keep the front end down giving more of a 50/50 distribution but running heavier wheels I've left the fluids as is due to the higher loading until the next annual service where I'll try tuning the diffs but I kind of like the looseness of the rear and wheelie's. My best advice is to take to Facebook and look up the 2 rival Mt10 groups, there's guys on there that are constantly adjusting to suit their driving styles that will be able to give you weights that'll work for your style I hope that helps
Thanks I'm glad it's helping people, Out of our 2 cars I had 1 strip due to the motor mount moving creating a bad gear mesh which is the cause of 90% of the bust spurs, (but that was the original that was 12 months old and was a failed front flip) and the other I swapped because it had picked up some debris The mesh is easy to reset once you have the car rebuild and the access cover behind the motor mount off (check the pinion is in line with the spur and is tight before you start) Loosen the sprung bolt on the top, Place a strip of paper between the pinion and spur (normal printer paper will do) Firmly press the motor down so the paper is gripped, Tighten the sprung bolt as tightly as you can then flip it over and tighten the small bolt on the underside of the chassis by the rear arm, Then with the car flat on its wheels turn 1 to feed the paper out from between the spur and pinion then replace the cover and you'll be up and going again (pencil lead is a good dry lube as grease would attract too much debris due to the poor seal around the guard) Another option to consider custom RC upgrades are producing a slightly modified motor mount out of quality alloy (personally I'm going to try add another bolt to the stock one and see if 2 will hold better before investing)
Yeah the spur is plastic (but if the mesh is set properly and checked as part of your pre run checks you'll have it last over a year of abuse) and the internal gears are all metal
The axel is fiddly but once you've done one and got the nack the other set will fly in, I've shown the best way as in the past I've pulled the diff with the half shafts still on only to have to remove one later in order to get the other back in
Hello, I'll say I'm new to the hobby b'coz it's totally different to I recall it as a kid 30 odd year ago. Not much patience short attention span no experience in fixing things. I keep braking my mt10, it was supposed to be tuff I keep braking the skid plate and front diff case, it's the second time now.. How do I fix this problem, any suggestions iv upgraded a few things but this is the problem I have to try sort out. Any advice/ help would be really appreciated. Thank you very much.
Thanks for reaching out, both our cars have the original skid plates and diff cases, the hack we found to work came from hardcore RCs channel and that's to soak the car entirely in gt85 by wd40 (not wd40 it doesn't quite work the same) all but the tyres inside and out give it 2 or 3 liberal coats (about an hour or so bettween coats) then leave it overnight to soak in the plastic then wipe off the excess then leave it 24 hours to completely dry then you should be good to go, now I'm guessing you're breaking them in the skate park/ BMX track off some gnarly landings or hitting nature's jungle gym for RCs another tip would be to slow things down and learn the car on small bunny hops because air control is harder to master on 2s than 3 which leads to gnarly landings when you run out of rotational momentum but 3s has more control of momentum which unfortunately leads to faster crashes if you go harder than expected to get the rotation now I'm not sure what battery you're running but you sound like you just need to build your skill with building experience long grass/ soft dirt is your friend in this process, even Kevin Talbot started small to hone his skills to land successfully without major damage on every landing and this all takes time so have fun and enjoy achieving your little wins to get to the big goal I hope this helps buddy
Yes it is, the spur is a 1 size deal that's just held with 4 bolts and the outdrive, the pinions are easy you have 2 ways to access The bottom if you're doing a diff service or if you're not release the motor plate it's only held by 2 bolts (as you'll need to change the mesh if you're changing the pinion size this is the way to go)
@@sambo6591 hi thanks for reaching outI just used the stock shims for the spiders and stock the diffs aren't shimmed for the pinion and crown gears, for me it's not something I'd look at unless I'm wiping out crowns or pinions just to keep the simplicity but I've seen on the Facebook mt10 group's several people have tightened the mesh in the crown and pinion they will be able to give you part numbers you need, but if you do start tightening the drive it may be an advantage to somehow shim the drive couplers as ours are p shaped after 2 year of use and are about £30 to replace (full center diff rebuild kit and the other coupling kit) for 2 basic drive cups which is a bit silly as the rest of the parts you get don't wear as fast,
@@sambo6591 we all start somewhere on this never ending learning curve, honestly it's personal preference but since you're still finding your feet I'd keep things simple and get a feeling for the car as is (this cars meant for fun diff shimming I'd personally only do with a race car or if I'm having issues with crown and pinion wear but as modern cars are built with fairly good tolerances it's not something to fret over) then once you've got settled in modify and tweak it to suit your driving style and the places you run, the mt10 overall is a good car but like everything it needs tweaking out of the box (most will have been done if you get a used car) - hub caps off before they fall off - nylock wheel nuts instead of the serrated ones fitted - Steering servo isn't great something like the ds servo 3225mg will work and is relatively cheap - the mesh between the pinion and spur will need resetting after shipping due to the mount not been completely tightened (the paper method works for learners but use good quality paper I use letter head paper (a single sheet will last years as you only need a short strip 5-7mm wide 5cm long each time) loosen the motor, place the paper between the pinion and spur, push the pinion into the spur and tighten the mount bolts, once it's tight just rotate the spur and the paper will come out leaving a good mesh gap behind) -rpm suspension arms are worth having to hand along side hinge pins but only swap them as you need to (we've got 2 cars and only fitted 3 in all this time) - battery straps you will need longer ones to fit bigger 3s lipos (but the cars more fun on 2s) - have a fastrax mt10 specific servo arm to hand the stock plastic one won't last too long but is an easy swap (especially if the servo dies first) -Have a spare spur gear in hand (unfortunately you can't upgrade to metal as none are made and it moves a failure point to the motor which is more expensive to change) The Facebook groups are a great source of information and ideas if you can they are worth joining
Yeah I know I had a charge wire running from above and it ended up dangling in the wrong place and rubbing the mic, I didn't even notice until I was editing 😞 but the issue is fixed the charge cable has been shortened and rerouted also a better mic has been purchased Thanks for watching the video
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Excellent video, I just followed it and did all 3 diffs.
I just installed the center diff a little different and found it more easy.
Thanks.
Thanks for reaching out, I'm Glad it helped, yeah post filming this I've realised it's easier to go the longer way, pop the drive shaft cover and move the motor away so the teeth don't engage then install the centre diff on the splines first and line the drive shaft up,
Just done my front diff thx to your video, already done centre when stripped spurr so just need to do the rear, thx so much for sharing content like this is perfect for me as a newbie 👍👍
I'm happy to hear it's been of use, yeah the spur is the Achilles heel of the car due to the mount system but my top tip is to check the gear mesh monthly it takes 5 minutes compared to an hour rebuilding the car
Nice video, extremely helpfull, this is the exact same setup as the v2 mt10.
thanks, yes the chassis is the same the only changes for the v2 are cosmetic (the mt8 style body and the removal of the side step/ exhaust nerf bars on the sides of the chassis)
Jetco tomahawks , had the 3.8 mt's on my sledge
@@macmccartney5760 yeah I've been surprised how well they've lasted and how well they handle all surfaces
Hello, thanks for the detailed video, the condition of the differentials is as it came from the factory or you had previously maintained them
Happy to help, that was factory and about 18 months of abuse before I serviced them
Great video ,the only one i found who disassemble all diffs. This will be very helpful for a lot of people! It was hard to see but how much oil should i use? :)
Thanks I'm glad it helped, it just needs to cover the spider gears (literally just) much more and you've got a sticky mess to clean up and you can accidentally dislodge the seal (which was the case with my partners mt10 from the factory)
Man what tires are those? The tread pattern looks awesome!
they are jetko tomahawks, 2.8" belted, they are great tyres i've had them on almost 2 years now and honestly they've barely worn and that's even running on tarmac and gravel, the best part about them are the removable center hex (those 6 allen heads hold the hub in so if you have one come loose or the hub gets damaged the wheel isn't written off ) and the center hub is available in 12, 14 and 17mm hex so you can use the wheels on any car
but the only issue there is that i've found that's the extra weight does wear the hub bearings quickly so they become a point to check
Hello, what set of good quality screwdrivers can you recommend that allows me to extract the differentials, tires, drive shafts, drive shafts, change servo, change to RPM arms and for all the basic actions to keep the Rival MT10 operational?
The size of the hexagonal pieces needed would be 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, and 3.0 to be able to disassemble the entire car?
Additionally, could you recommend a set of screws to have as a reserve for the Rival MT10 since it seems to me that the ones that come are somewhat fragile.
@@WidmanEncarnacionArellano I've just got a cheap set from an Amazon return reseller for my impact driver (used for extraction only) and a set of Aldi Allen keys for the manual stuff but wiera drivers are good although I am looking at the I-fixit driver kits as they have a lifetime warranty for both the standard and micro drivers
You did the fluids weights according to the manual, what would you recommand ohterwise, i heard heavier oil in the center diff is good
Thanks for the questions, thicker in the center helps keep the front end down giving more of a 50/50 distribution but running heavier wheels I've left the fluids as is due to the higher loading until the next annual service where I'll try tuning the diffs but I kind of like the looseness of the rear and wheelie's. My best advice is to take to Facebook and look up the 2 rival Mt10 groups, there's guys on there that are constantly adjusting to suit their driving styles that will be able to give you weights that'll work for your style
I hope that helps
Great video mate i need to replace my spur gear as its stripped, have you had this issue or maybe mine was just a little loose when i got it
Thanks I'm glad it's helping people,
Out of our 2 cars I had 1 strip due to the motor mount moving creating a bad gear mesh which is the cause of 90% of the bust spurs, (but that was the original that was 12 months old and was a failed front flip) and the other I swapped because it had picked up some debris
The mesh is easy to reset once you have the car rebuild and the access cover behind the motor mount off (check the pinion is in line with the spur and is tight before you start)
Loosen the sprung bolt on the top,
Place a strip of paper between the pinion and spur (normal printer paper will do)
Firmly press the motor down so the paper is gripped,
Tighten the sprung bolt as tightly as you can then flip it over and tighten the small bolt on the underside of the chassis by the rear arm,
Then with the car flat on its wheels turn 1 to feed the paper out from between the spur and pinion then replace the cover and you'll be up and going again (pencil lead is a good dry lube as grease would attract too much debris due to the poor seal around the guard)
Another option to consider custom RC upgrades are producing a slightly modified motor mount out of quality alloy (personally I'm going to try add another bolt to the stock one and see if 2 will hold better before investing)
@@brontecountryrc amazing mate thanks for the info can't wait to get it sorted, appreciate it man 👍
Happy to help,
Can you tell me if the center diff is have plastic tooth?
Yeah the spur is plastic (but if the mesh is set properly and checked as part of your pre run checks you'll have it last over a year of abuse) and the internal gears are all metal
Wow amazing video tho these look s preety tricky dunno i could fit cva s on mt10
The axel is fiddly but once you've done one and got the nack the other set will fly in, I've shown the best way as in the past I've pulled the diff with the half shafts still on only to have to remove one later in order to get the other back in
Hello, I'll say I'm new to the hobby b'coz it's totally different to I recall it as a kid 30 odd year ago. Not much patience short attention span no experience in fixing things. I keep braking my mt10, it was supposed to be tuff I keep braking the skid plate and front diff case, it's the second time now.. How do I fix this problem, any suggestions iv upgraded a few things but this is the problem I have to try sort out. Any advice/ help would be really appreciated. Thank you very much.
Thanks for reaching out, both our cars have the original skid plates and diff cases, the hack we found to work came from hardcore RCs channel and that's to soak the car entirely in gt85 by wd40 (not wd40 it doesn't quite work the same) all but the tyres inside and out give it 2 or 3 liberal coats (about an hour or so bettween coats) then leave it overnight to soak in the plastic then wipe off the excess then leave it 24 hours to completely dry then you should be good to go, now I'm guessing you're breaking them in the skate park/ BMX track off some gnarly landings or hitting nature's jungle gym for RCs another tip would be to slow things down and learn the car on small bunny hops because air control is harder to master on 2s than 3 which leads to gnarly landings when you run out of rotational momentum but 3s has more control of momentum which unfortunately leads to faster crashes if you go harder than expected to get the rotation now I'm not sure what battery you're running but you sound like you just need to build your skill with building experience long grass/ soft dirt is your friend in this process, even Kevin Talbot started small to hone his skills to land successfully without major damage on every landing and this all takes time so have fun and enjoy achieving your little wins to get to the big goal
I hope this helps buddy
Is it easy change pinion or spur on these an adjust motor
Yes it is, the spur is a 1 size deal that's just held with 4 bolts and the outdrive, the pinions are easy you have 2 ways to access
The bottom if you're doing a diff service or if you're not release the motor plate it's only held by 2 bolts (as you'll need to change the mesh if you're changing the pinion size this is the way to go)
Wat shims do you use
@@sambo6591 hi thanks for reaching outI just used the stock shims for the spiders and stock the diffs aren't shimmed for the pinion and crown gears, for me it's not something I'd look at unless I'm wiping out crowns or pinions just to keep the simplicity but I've seen on the Facebook mt10 group's several people have tightened the mesh in the crown and pinion they will be able to give you part numbers you need, but if you do start tightening the drive it may be an advantage to somehow shim the drive couplers as ours are p shaped after 2 year of use and are about £30 to replace (full center diff rebuild kit and the other coupling kit) for 2 basic drive cups which is a bit silly as the rest of the parts you get don't wear as fast,
I'm pretty new to RCs so I was just wondering if the gifts needed to be shamed I should have explained it better
@@sambo6591 we all start somewhere on this never ending learning curve, honestly it's personal preference but since you're still finding your feet I'd keep things simple and get a feeling for the car as is (this cars meant for fun diff shimming I'd personally only do with a race car or if I'm having issues with crown and pinion wear but as modern cars are built with fairly good tolerances it's not something to fret over) then once you've got settled in modify and tweak it to suit your driving style and the places you run, the mt10 overall is a good car but like everything it needs tweaking out of the box (most will have been done if you get a used car)
- hub caps off before they fall off
- nylock wheel nuts instead of the serrated ones fitted
- Steering servo isn't great something like the ds servo 3225mg will work and is relatively cheap
- the mesh between the pinion and spur will need resetting after shipping due to the mount not been completely tightened (the paper method works for learners but use good quality paper I use letter head paper (a single sheet will last years as you only need a short strip 5-7mm wide 5cm long each time) loosen the motor, place the paper between the pinion and spur, push the pinion into the spur and tighten the mount bolts, once it's tight just rotate the spur and the paper will come out leaving a good mesh gap behind)
-rpm suspension arms are worth having to hand along side hinge pins but only swap them as you need to (we've got 2 cars and only fitted 3 in all this time)
- battery straps you will need longer ones to fit bigger 3s lipos (but the cars more fun on 2s)
- have a fastrax mt10 specific servo arm to hand the stock plastic one won't last too long but is an easy swap (especially if the servo dies first)
-Have a spare spur gear in hand (unfortunately you can't upgrade to metal as none are made and it moves a failure point to the motor which is more expensive to change)
The Facebook groups are a great source of information and ideas if you can they are worth joining
Kinda tires u got there bud?
They are belted jetko tomahawks
Dang man. You have to figure out your mic!
Yeah I know I had a charge wire running from above and it ended up dangling in the wrong place and rubbing the mic, I didn't even notice until I was editing 😞 but the issue is fixed the charge cable has been shortened and rerouted also a better mic has been purchased
Thanks for watching the video