I can hear Lindsay in the background at what sounds like a busy function. This is a nice looking pattern. I appreciate the thought behind the use of materials that work together to create a "Look," when they get wet!
Another skilled master of our art. For the body of some of these mayfly style patterns. Real raffia is hard work to use taking some serious practice to use it right. I continue to use including for detached bodys put some pva wood glue on glass or a ceramic tile, when it dries use a craft knife along a straight edge. Cut thin strips. To use as false raffia. Or for a detached body place a heavy needle in the jaws of your vice. Take some long pheasant tail fibres or buck tail. Along with this ad a short length of heavy nylon line or hollow braid to help support the latex body. With a waxed brown thread attach the fibres and nylon to the needle. Allow enough length of fibres for: a short base. The body length plus a few mm and the tail fibre length. Tie in the latex at the base. Wind it along the needle in overlapping turns over needle nylon and fibres to the required body length. The nylon should not be any longer than the latex body. Then back to the base to form the tapered body. When the required thickness and effect is achieved. Tie it off at the base. Then wrap along the latex in a wide spiral with either periodic half hitches or three turn whip finish. To achieve the segment effect. With a final securing whip finish at the tip. Tiniest amount of varnish at that tip. Slide it off the needle and attach it to the hook as part of a drake or wullf mayfly. A lot of work to add a couple of extra choices in the mayfly selection. A quicker option that can also be used on detached daddies is make the body using coastal deer hair held together by the same whipping technique. I still have some blue buck tail adult damsel/dragonfly munsters that due to doing a batch took a couple of days. I landed a beautiful brown trout at Langley Dam on one of them.
Lovely job Mark. Thanks for uploading Lindsay
Welcome Peter.
Peter as always thank you for the supporting kind comments.
You are a real craftsman Mark...fabulouslyly tied pattern...
Boy can tie a fly for sure.
Brian thank you for the very kind comment
Lindsay thank you
Very nice pattern, thanks for sharing Lindsay.
Thanks for watching!
an excellent demo by by Mark he makes it look so easy and great work on bringing these videos to us fly tiers
Very welcome pal 👍
John thank you
He made that look easy!!, thanks for that Mr Simpson!.
ATB Chris.
Welcome pal
Thank you Chris
Cracking video Lindsay, like the idea of guest fly tyers on your channel 👌🏻
Had the opportunity at the BFFI, why not 😉
Never to old to learn Lindsay , nice tying.
Background noise suggests a well attended show.? Maybe I'll get down next year.
It is a great show Davie.
I can hear Lindsay in the background at what sounds like a busy function. This is a nice looking pattern. I appreciate the thought behind the use of materials that work together to create a "Look," when they get wet!
It was at the BFFI this year, fabulous tier.
Another skilled master of our art. For the body of some of these mayfly style patterns. Real raffia is hard work to use taking some serious practice to use it right. I continue to use including for detached bodys put some pva wood glue on glass or a ceramic tile, when it dries use a craft knife along a straight edge. Cut thin strips. To use as false raffia. Or for a detached body place a heavy needle in the jaws of your vice. Take some long pheasant tail fibres or buck tail. Along with this ad a short length of heavy nylon line or hollow braid to help support the latex body. With a waxed brown thread attach the fibres and nylon to the needle. Allow enough length of fibres for: a short base. The body length plus a few mm and the tail fibre length. Tie in the latex at the base. Wind it along the needle in overlapping turns over needle nylon and fibres to the required body length. The nylon should not be any longer than the latex body. Then back to the base to form the tapered body. When the required thickness and effect is achieved. Tie it off at the base. Then wrap along the latex in a wide spiral with either periodic half hitches or three turn whip finish. To achieve the segment effect. With a final securing whip finish at the tip. Tiniest amount of varnish at that tip. Slide it off the needle and attach it to the hook as part of a drake or wullf mayfly. A lot of work to add a couple of extra choices in the mayfly selection. A quicker option that can also be used on detached daddies is make the body using coastal deer hair held together by the same whipping technique. I still have some blue buck tail adult damsel/dragonfly munsters that due to doing a batch took a couple of days. I landed a beautiful brown trout at Langley Dam on one of them.
Some great tips there Mick.
Michael some great information in there. Thank you for sharing.
@@markrobinson7924 It is always a pleasure watching a craftsman who is proud of high quality work
Michael thank you for the kind comments. Greatly appreciated
Great video 👍
Very talented tier 👍
Lindsay thank you for the kind comments and the opportunity to participate in the video
@@markrobinson7924 No pal, thank you for taking part!
Nice really nice 👍
Thanks Shawn 👍
Thanks Shawn
Nice tying Mark, you'll soon be doing your own videos.
I
That would be great!
Maybe in the future Freddie