How do I close in the cab of my CUSTOM TRUCK?! [8]
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
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THERE IS A WHOLE BUILD SERIES ON THIS TRUCK! WATCH IT HERE! ruclips.net/video/8ZZNVc2kCZU/видео.html
I have been watching through the whole series. Really enjoying it so far!
Sorry that the episode never went up last night! I hope you grab your snacks, sit, and enjoy it thoroughly tonight. Rest your feet after a long week!
Kyle I would personally go a different direction. I would use a honeycomb composite core or foam core material and fiberglass it. You could create virtually any contour or shape very easily and install a window easily. That is a ton of fabrication you are looking at with a thin metal that will be hard to get to cooperate in my opinion. Love watching your projects!
Solid suggestion, David, but that would render the vehicle uncertifiable for future inspection. I want to avoid that route.
I wonder why? That is exactly how many new motor homes and travel trailers are built.
I like the first plan
Bit more work but definitely the best looking an less hacked lol
Plus you gain windows to keep an eye on the load .d like have some type cargo box on bottom of the panel that would solve the bottom piece coming up short
I know you like keep as much deck space as possible but sometimes it’s better sacrifice to gain lol
That be nice spot for winch then
But it’s your build man we are along for the ride
Option Dad seems like the best one because time is money! Could you use an old caravan windowfor the back window? Might be able to get that at a scrap yard.
The first option “A” will be more labor intensive. Is it 1.5” total too narrow so that’s 3/4” per side? To make that fit you do have to splice cut. Leave the other blue doors on the donor. It’s the rear pillar where the door striker/latch is that is wider. Keep the original integrity of the motor home cab. It may already be strengthened. As far as the gap in the back under the blue van tail 16” out right? You could incorporate a storage box there or even a winch. Open from sides and or a hatch in cab.
Option “B”. Why can’t you use the rest of the body panels on blue van keeping the ridges. Also I think there maybe a support already welded in for a window. You could set that where you want the rear window and find the glass etc from a donor junkyard van side window. Using the panel(s) from the blue van would also bubble out a bit and you also keep the drip rail. A good frame at rear of motor home cab welded in would be very strong.
Putting in the flat panel is the easiest route but more$ and would look like a fat lady with a mastectomy! Ha had to add a joke! Sounds like your father has a few good ideas.
I told you I’m going to do almost identically the same thing. Just my input!
Man, thats a cool idea Jason! Im going to do some measuring and sketching today to see if it could work. Thanks for the ideas. Keep watching closely so you can see what NOT to do with yours! Haha
I like the flat steel option! Just my opinion!
Wish you all the best!👍🙏😊
I like the way your Dad thinks.
Original option 1. Because it's hard and I'm into this build, and you are going to be happy with the extra space behind the seat for tool boxes and keeping stuff dry. Extending the bed won't be too bad. You can do it!!
Thanks for the input man. The extra space would be nice for sure!
I would lean toward option 2. I would be worried that even thought the donor parts from the other van have the correct contours, once you start putting all that heat into the metal with the numerous required seam welds in option 1, it may not come out looking as good as you would want. I agree with others that the expense of the 16 gage steel sheet will probably come out around even since you save on having to extend the bed. The back wall being tight to the seats with no additional storage space would be a drawback, but I still think that option 2 is the more reliable route. Love the series and can't wait to see what you decide to do!
Got news for you Kyle, 50 years ago that’s how most items came with a manual, written by Americans, with parts list and schematic picture. Oh for the days when manufactures wanted to keep and please their customers.
I'm not a fab guy first off but it seems to me you could cut some of that 16 inches off the blue van part seeing as you have to split it in half anyway . That part only comes half way down the cab anyway . Then you could install a flat piece the rest of the way to the bed . I'm sure you can get all the metal you need off the donor . Maybe your Ranger would fit under the step made this way and you wouldn't need to extend the bed . Wish I had the parts in hand so I could show ya' what I mean ! Good luck !
Put the back doors together weld them and bolt them in. Smooth it out so it's solid.
Ok Kyle, the end section from the donor would be my choice. You won't need the back doors to open so fabing it up will be less of a challenge. A rear window from the pickup truck might work. If you find a window that opens remotely that's a plus.
You took on this project to push yourself. Think van rear end and pickup truck rear end combo. If you can find something in your price range it may work
Good luck
That combo is exactly whats in mind, Clinton. Making it work, and in a feasible amount of time, is the real trick here! Haha
I would use the welded framework structure from option 2 (1"x1" square tubing?) and create a flat fiberglass panel that could be molded into the existing body. Putting a window into that would be easy. A honeycomb core or foam core material might stiffen up the fiberglass as well.
Very nice ideas, Kent! Agreed on the 1x1 tubing. It would make for a pretty clean setup. However, I would like to keep the panel as metal, to avoid inspection problems later!
I’d go flat panel 💯. The other way your gonna have a lot of welding and issues with warping Also a lot of body work to do if your gonna want a decent looking paint job
The only way to avoid the warping will be to take it super slow. Tack here. Tack there. Another tack. Wait for it to cool, and so on. Agreed, a lot of bodywork and time to make it happen. Thanks for weighing in man! I appreciate it!
I think you already know the answer...more welds...more chance for warps...more parts to anything, greater chance of a fail. Thanks for the response on that commission Kyle. Much appreciated.
Haven't decided just yet, friend! Haha its tough. Your guys comments have made it even tougher!
In my opinion option 2 is the best because then you wouldn't have to extend the bed. The 300 to 350 it might cost to do option 2, could be the same amount it will cost to extend that bed if you did option 1
Hi Kyle, I'd go with dad's solution,less hassle.
Flat steel, extending the frame has its own set of problems, keep on keepin on...
Im leaning option 2, im no fabricator but how much would it cost to extend the flat deck?? Would it cost you a hundred bucks? At least if you make a cage for it your time and work will be cut in half, and you won't have to do any extention to the bed
Thanks Andrew! The cost to extend the deck would be to add another rib, so maybe $100 or so. No big deal. The bigger issue is having the truck be that much longer, with that much more rear overhang.
Are u using a 1/8 grinding disk on that? If u are that generates more heat then a zip cut... Great video tho. Always here
Man, you got some drawing skills too! Best napkin diagram I've ever seen ! Honestly I'd do option 2.. I think it would look way better..
There is a company that makes these commercial vehicle/box truck cutaway panels to do just what you’re doing.
There is a company that makes these commercial vehicle/box truck cutaway panels to do just what you’re doing.
I know you're going to do what you're going to do but I'd totally go with option number one. I know it's intimidating but not as big a job as you think. A flat panel will be more prone to warping being there's no curves to take the heat energy. And remember that the body work and paint hides the little imperfections. Either Way if done slow and methodical it would turn out great. I think the first option would just look so much better and you'd just have to extend your deck 16 inches which is easy peasy.
I support your decision either way.
In my experience I found that the quick and easy way sometimes dont yield the best results. I would go with the first plan your welds can be ground down and sanded to look seamless. Maintaining the original contures of the truck not to mention the extra storage behind the seats would be worth it. Plus the practice hours you could get with the welder is an extra bonus too.
I agree with your thoughts, Philip! The only part you downplayed is the ease of the welding portion. Haha Welds can be ground, but warps are hard to make disappear!
@@kyle_noseworthy I agree but with that nice new welder you should be able to dial in the heat just right. Tack first then run a short bead on one portion then moving to another spot. If you think it will be a big issue cut out two segments of scrap sheet metal from the van grind it down and practice a few runs see how it reacts.
Fiz Fabrication has a RUclips channel and he's local if you watch some of his videos I think it will help , he has a video of were he makes a pipe anvil great device for doing profiles in sheet metal and very easy to make .This guy knows his stuff ,good luck love your channel.
I have seen his stuff! Very skilled!
Option 1 for sure.
As someone mentioned don't cut it and use as is.
You could weld strips down each side of the cab and then weld the existing uncut unit to that.
Option 2 I think would look too home made. You're going to all this effort, may as well make it look right.
Or bite the bullet and go full option 1.
Do you need to go all the way down to the flat bed? Where the donor section finishes weld a return there and create an internal shelf for storage. The bed would then be slightly longer at the lower lever for longer pieces to fit on.
Hmm, now that is something I hadnt considered. A return section. Im going to think on that one. Thanks Gary!
I would go for option #2 with a square tube framework as Kent recommends below. I'd also lay that front section of roof from the donor onto the project truck to make sure the cab hasn't distorted. You may find that the back has spread out. Or maybe not but you should check those measurements.
As far as cost, better to do it right the first time than regret cutting corners just to save a few dollars.
Best of luck!
I vote for option 2. Not sure option 1 is worth the extra time & effort. However, I am looking forward to see how you progress no matter which one you choose!
Thanks! Having difficulty deciding!
Option 2. In the long run it should be a lot less man hours and you will not have more man hours extending the deck.
The deck space eaten up might be my biggest concern right now
I saw this coming and I won't presume to advise you. I just want the videos to continue.👍😁
Haha All good problems, my friend. Now we just need to pick a route and make it happen!
I say flat and if u watch Fitzee hes a body guy and i think he may be on your island love your vids
Yes, I have seen his work! Quite skilled
There is a company that makes these commercial vehicle/box truck cutaway panels to do just what you’re doing. There is a company that makes these commercial vehicle/box truck cutaway panels to do just what you’re doing. There is a company that makes these commercial vehicle/box truck cutaway panels to do just what you’re doing. There is a company that makes these commercial vehicle/box truck cutaway panels to do just what you’re doing. There is a company that makes these commercial vehicle/box truck cutaway panels to do just what you’re doing. There is a company that makes these commercial vehicle/box truck cutaway panels to do just what you’re doing. There is a company that makes these commercial vehicle/box truck cutaway panels to do just what you’re doing. There is a company that makes these commercial vehicle/box truck cutaway panels to do just what you’re doing. There is a company that makes these commercial vehicle/box truck cutaway panels to do just what you’re doing. There is a company that makes these commercial vehicle/box truck cutaway panels to do just what you’re doing. There is a company that makes these commercial vehicle/box truck cutaway panels to do just what you’re doing. There is a company that makes these commercial vehicle/box truck cutaway panels to do just what you’re doing. There is a company that makes these commercial vehicle/box truck cutaway panels to do just what you’re doing. There is a company that makes these commercial vehicle/box truck cutaway panels to do just what you’re doing.
I think the flat panel would be best. It's gonna be a lot of work no matter your choice. Once you load up the ranger, how will you transport the family of 5 with this? Aside from the project, which looks like fun, a trailer behind the F150 might be an easier option. Heck of a lot cheaper too. Good luck.
If you do go with the uglier (in my opinion) flat steel sheet, you could put a bed back rack like you would have in a pickup. That way it doesn't look like a hack job and you have additional functionality. Mounting points of all kinds like wenches and lighting.
As much as I think your original idea would produce a Dandy looking, one of a kind unit, I think there are too many variables with small pieces and can see it becoming problematic and time consuming. Option 2, despite the added cost, sounds likely to be the "easiest and quickest" option... again.. still a one of a kind unit. There is no wrong answer.. but. Your free cab ultimately means you have to add on to the rear to meet your desired specs. Either way, you're spending bucks. I realize now my comment probably isn't helpful hahaha. As much as I like your original idea, I think Option 2 gets my vote. Just keep the donor parts in case you change your mind later on 😅😂
The donor cab is narrower because aero dynamics, so yes you need make a cut in the roof. The easiest way to join the pieces is to use a sleeve. The sleeve will be tacked usually on the receiving. Any metal thicker than 18ga would be overkill end. Also do not weld solid, you only need to tack this (except the roof joint where you will cut).
Next to save yourself a nightmare of warped metal, use bonding adhesive which is made for auto collision, there are many brands, 3M, lord fusor to name 2.
Make sure both sides are clean, slide and clamp into place, rivets will work as the clamps, when everything is dry drill out the rivets and weld the holes.
Great video!! I love this project!! My suggestion would be "how are you with mig welding body panels?". I would cut a few strips of steel off your donor van and start playing with your welder. Get a feel for it. Then make your decision.
You should reach out to Fitzee over at Fitzee's Fabrications at ruclips.net/channel/UC6JPmJ_aicru8XPWr3EvJnw. He's in CBS but his channel is built around this and he might have good insight. Or maybe there's a collab video there... Otherwise, I vote option 2. Would look better in the long run.
I'll just throw in two spontaneous thoughts. The first is safety, in case of an accident I think that it would be a good idea to have some thicker stock that can stop whatever is on the bed to make an unwanted appearance in the cabin. The second thing is comfort, I guess that it can get pretty cold in the winter so plan for a bit of room for insulation behind the seats.
I think option 1 would obviously look better and cleaner but that is A LOT of fav work. However if you are building this for strictly work then option 2 would be best. Either way it's going to be an awesome build!
Are you able to fabricate the lower section? ie. can you bend the corners to the same radius so that it all mates up? If so I'd go with the original option!
The flat panel will look pretty crappy although it would be easier to execute. The corner welds would take a lot of grinding to blend the panels together.
You are one handy guy Kyle. I really can’t comment on the fabrication but love the project. So great to get some help from NAPA very kind of them. Great company.
Go flat to have 12' of bed, but try to put the prop out windows from a van in your flat back. It makes the airflow in a van so much more comfortable, with the windows down, or up with the heat blowing!
Kyle.. I'vve bangeg my head against the wall lots on projects.. take the 2nd option.. your looking to use it as a utility vehicle and the economics of opt 2 is way better.. it would be different if you project were in the vain of a rolling display..in that case you have a need for something to stand out ..thats where you get creative.. wish some one had told me some of that stuff years ago...cheers
Not a fab guy. Option one would definitely look better. Get a body guy to help you do it maybe. At least try it and if it doesn't go well you can always cut it off and stick the flat option on. I don't think you've ever done something the easy way just for the sake of not having to do some difficult work. I think the extra enclosed space in the cab would be priceless.
Sheet of flat steel and roll cage option all the way! With a nice sliding rear window from a written off damaged pickup.
No "Hack Job"!!
I agree with your dad. Use the flat sheet metal. I think it will look better and be easier. Spend a little money now and save time. Besides you probably won't see it be India headache rack. Good luck.
I prefer option one. One thing to look at is if you were to trim the van back parallel to the rear face so it does stick out as far. And as others have mentioned the lower section could be turned into storage for stuff like straps and tools. If you go option two and you intend to do the welding from the inside, only brace it enough for it to hold it's shape until it is tacked in place and not too close to your corners. Remove the bracing, weld it up and then trim the outside. You will experience less blow through doing a corner weld then a butt weld. Then build your inside frame and weld into place.
They both take a lot of welding I personally like ur first idea use the back of the van I think it would give ur truck a one of a kind look like what u and ur pops are doing and hello from Vancouver Washington 😎
Yep, I had to split mine also. One tons must be wider. I am going to use the roof as a filler in place of the doors similar to a Chevy Nomad wagon rear door. No windows but I think it will have a cool look.
Stick with option 1 with the van body I'm building one to you forget the back of the van is more narrow then the front this is expected this way will look way better and worth the work if you look at my thumb nail pic is the last van I have done
I am glad that NAPA came onboard. I am sure they will be a help for you and we will see you using their tools and parts. Win win as far as I am concerned.
Yeesh Kyle, doohickeys always connect to thingamabobs. Excellent video and series bud👍
wished you taken a little more of the roof with you still connected to the rear part like cut forward above the driprail to about where the sidedoor is then go across on top so it keeps its structure and cut it to size once you fit it u to the rv van , that saves you a weldseam patching it in to the rv roofsection and probably makes it eazier than holding up a separate patch over youre head while trying to weld it intoo all 4 corners without it warping
as for the fitment of the rearpart to the rv van , the cab might have spread out the inch and a half in the back from the weight of the rv part resting on top of it over the years as theres no real structure left in the body holding those sides in place might allso explain why you have to slam the doors to get them to close at all , you might be able to pull the top of the rv van together with a ratchet strap untill it fits then patch in the rearpannel so the structures back intoo it
if you still decide to widen the rearpiece you could cut a strip of roof of the front of the donor van down to and including the strenchtening around the front window frame you can drill out the spotweld or just cut it off if you need to change the top parts shape
it should have close to the same shape and as in being a 1.5 inch wide strip once the driprail is patched in can be bend every wish way while stitchwelding it in place
the small bit of metal you need to add to the bottom to patch and shape the piece added to the intoo the reardoorframe should be pretty eazy to do you can probably bend it over by hand after stitching it on the corners
you could shorten the rv cab behind the doors of the rv cab so the bend comes in right after the doors that could save about 6 inches of total cab length or so , might need to save the actual doorframe rstructure of the rv van behind the panel youre taking off and adapt it to follow the bend or the reardoor panel so the doors of the rv still close nicely without cracking the welds or bending the sides in
as for the back opening where the doors used to sit i think if you cut the whole side of the donortruck out including the bodyline iyou should be able to patch that intoo the reardooropening just about perfect , i think theres enough structure behind that side panel to patch intoo the doorframe and make it rigit enough , them find a small side window with a rubber windowseal out of any passenger van and put that in the midle , should look better than the two reardoorwindows
Kyle I was looking at the side of the doner van and it’s the same body molding as the flatbed why not use the side as the back keeping it as tight as you can to the seats and fabing around it like from the roofline and all the way down then roll a couple of simple corners and have the body lines fallow all the way round
What about using the back of a truck cab or sleeper? Fibreglass is relatively easy to work with. Not sure how easy it would be to find though.
Not a fab guy but I think it would look a lot better with your first options plus with you said it is cheaper thats just me.Good luck
If it were me i would have borrowed a bit more roof. kind of like a jeep roof just cut under the drip rail. but whats done is done.
Your gonna hate the truck if you go with option 2, option 1 would be absolutely awesome
Kyle the blue 80s van be good for storing engines and trans in along with etc parts js leave windshield in
Could you cut off the complete roof from the donor van, hammer out the curves till flat, then use that.
First choice 1
Love How This Project Is Coming Along ! Good Luck With That Thing A Ma Bob. ATB T God Bless
I like the van back option. But it is your truck and your money.
I vote for Option #1 Kyle. Keep the faith!
Kyle, I really liked the cleaner look of option 2. While the first option would save you a few bucks, in the long run the extra work would negate that savings. The roll cage with the x bracing would add to the strength as well.
Thanks Ervin! This will be a tough decision. I think youre right on how the 'savings' will play out in the long term.
No doubt whatsover that option 1 represents more work and more hassle, but IMO it would look so so much better. You would have a nicer looking vehicle at the end. I think you could do it. My vote is option 1. :)
Thanks for the input my friend. You guys are really making this a tough decision! Haha
maybe rust reformer for the deck and undercarriage
I'm definitely not a fab guy . I always find that there is always something more that can be catastrophic to what my project is . I would just close it in with sheet metal. I hope it helps you . Great video as usual Kyle !! Take care and stay safe my friend !!
Thanks Troy!
I'm just watching these videos to see if you get hurt
Congratulations to you all! She`s precious.
I think the flat panel would end up looking the best
It's always a good idea to have a heavy duty jack when ya got a Ford.... hahaha. Can't you add the plate and weld the piece you cut to it? Combine the two ideas.. my thoughts anyway..
Now, now, Elwin. You're hunting for trouble! Haha
As for your suggestion, I dont think that would allow a win in either case. Id still have all the work plus more, in addition to losing the bed space, and not gaining any cab space
It's wider, more like it tappers.
Your original idea will work if u did cut that piece in half use the lower section of the quarter panel from the blue van just get the body lines to match n patch what rotten metal you have
Or use the rear taillightspeice it's have that round shape and weld square plate to cover the lights or use them
Can't wait to see it finished.
Very interesting.
Nice
Thanks Michael! Have you got those aluminum under-bed boxes welded up yet for her?!
@@kyle_noseworthy I would if the shipping wouldn’t cost so much!
Would the back cab of a old 70s dodge ram work? If so let me know, won't cost ya a cent good sir.
Sheesh, I dont know man. I could take some measurements! Watcha' got?!
Kyle, I’m really enjoying your series. Another great video. As for closing in the back, I’m with your father. Not that I don’t think you have the skills for option one but for your first resto project, I think you should take the less stressful option. Reason for my decision is, I don’t want you to become overwhelmed with the intensity of the build and feel that you can’t accomplish your project. You stated in earlier videos that this is new territory for you. As you learn, I’m sure these projects will get more intense. Can’t wait. So for now, let this be a learning project. I’m afraid that the intensity may discourage you from other projects. Enjoy yourself. Have fun. Keep making new videos
Bend some pipe around for a soft corner.
always !you get what you PAY for !
Steel parts going in an aluminum truck! Lol
Dad's idea is the most practical
Kyle I’m loving this van tear down and rebuild series. I think the best option is # 2. It may cost a little more but it will be easier, quicker and I think it will look better. You will not lose deck space. Well that is my two cents worth. Oh I forgot to comment a while back about the running boards. I vote with your dad to keep them.....Take care, Bluefin.
Ill add your vote to the mix on the side steps! Haha
Glad youre enjoying the series, Bluefin. There seems to be a pretty even split of votes on this issue here. Hard decision
When in doubt go the free route!
CUBE it gofer the length .
My friend using the van parts would be better and cheaper and it would look a lot better at the end
I like option 2.
👍
Just use the roof and then dads idea.
It would be way stronger also.
Don't forget to value your time. Option 2 might cost $350 but you can earn that back (and more) making knives with the time you save. I think you will be happier with the look too. The finished product will resemble a cube van with the cube cut off. Rather than flush cut the extra material to the cab, it wouldn't look bad to just leave it as a rectangle that stands proud of the cab. Beef it up with some square stock for strength (like a roll cage) and it would make a great place to add some work lights, tie down points etc. like a back rack type of concept. Round off or 45 the top corners to take the shape of the cab a little. You can get creative with that part a lot easier and make a clean finished product.