I had a similar problem, but I didn't have a drill press. my solution was to drill out the holes prior to gluing the boards together. I used the metal bars with wax to keep the alignment while the glue dried. worked like a charm. I always enjoy your videos
Best explanation online, I have done this a few years ago when I needed to go thru a 2 by 10. I had an old citronella candle for wax on the bits. Nice work.....
I was also going to suggest waxing the bit. I had to do this on a live edge mantle and used a 6" deep square scrap as a guide block that I drilled with the drill press and then clamped to the actual mantle since the curved live edge made it impossible to mount on the drill press. Nevermind that it was also 6ft long and 3 inches thick.
Great video Art. I had to do the same thing a couple of years ago. I also drilled a "pilot" hole on my drill press and used the auger bit in a hand drill, but I took the auger bit to my grinder and removed the threads from the lead screw. It worked great! I also waxed the auger bit as I cleared the chips. Love you practical methods to complete your various tasks. Keep up the good work.
Great job. In fact, trouble shooting is much more interesting than just drilling hole. Thanks for sharing the video. How did you get out the drill bit that was stuck in the wood? Or is it still there?
Good problem-solving. Meanwhile, for the squeaking, try Glidecoat by Bostik. After you try it on your drilling, put it on your table saw, bandsaw table, on the bottom of your routers, etc.
I wonder if adding something for lubrication on the side of the auger bit would have helped, like paste wax, or a light touch of oil, similar to the Paul Sellers rag in a can with oil trick for saws and hand planes. Anything to reduce the friction between the bit and the walls of the hole.
I use exactly the same method, but ends it off with an auger bit and a brace.If in a hurry I use the bit extender like you do, BUT also lost a bit in a piece of wood when the bit came loose.Thanks for sharing.
Great tip, wish I'd known about this pilot hole voodoo when I did my auger bit deep drilling. Now here's one for you; kick some shims under your drill press, lol.
It seems your drill press needs to be more stable as it appears to not touching in all four corners. You can use the first two techniques with the auger long bit but file off half of the threads leaving a point but no continuous threads. That would keep it from burrowing and stalling. Use wax on the bit to reduce friction. You’ll still be able to us the auger bit on softer wood but will need to push harder since the auger no longer works as designed.
A few observations. . . Your belt on the drill press is loose. To stop squeek and get the drill bit to move more freely add a bit of margarine to the bit - it works a treat.
Good ideas in the comments in addition to your clever solution. I also wonder if this might be the place for a hand brace and a long auger bit to complete the hole. Slow, but low torque & entirely controllable.
@@Wordsnwood This is a special thing about woodworking (& creating/making in general), that there are so many possible approaches to solve a problem, limited only by one's imagination & habits.
I drilled some 10 inch holes that had to align with another board on the opposite side. It was 8 to 10 years ago and I can't remember how I did it but your method worked so good job Art!!!
I would agree that drilling the first 5" on the press is a good technique. And I agree that the 8" long bit was a good choice. It's what I would call a ship auger. The wide lands make it self-guiding. But bits of this design should be used in a brace (AKA "cordless drill") unless you have a solid set up and a powerful, low RPM drill. Ebay always has a bunch of quality braces for under $50. They are useful tools in many circumstances.
Did you try the drill on "low" or "1" instead of the fast speed? When I need more torque I drop the speed so that I can power through the hole. Regardless, a good video with good ideas!
I guess if I had to do that with my drill press (/fireworks dispenser) I would have had to turn the table vertical by pressing it into a rod I kept to square it up. Then swing it aside to fit/hold a gauge so that a bit would center on any slab *without* interference. Then clamped the board flush with the resulting 'top' edge of the table between moves. I'd do this not because it would make it trivially easy to reposition for each drilling operation while maintaining precision - but because I've learned that none of the overlapping ticks from the factory will actually level anything when aligned with the 0° position on the printed scale - and while I do have a 'vertical' handle, turning it releases the lock and sends the table to the floor without any builtin indexing to make returning to a previous position -possible- practical. It *was* on sale, though the store did very strongly advise people against buying it. And I still mildly regret not buying one *slightly* more like yours - like they suggested..
@@Wordsnwood Yeah. That one was marked repeatedly wrong was a surprise to the store (more than none of the marks being what they should be), but that the factory probably knew that most people -wouldn't- shouldn't trust it a second time, and making it -impossible- prohibitively difficult to attempt use it a first time all was the most honest they could way to satisfy the importer's buildsheet without taking the time to do it right.
That final drill is for a brace. Not have one a bock of wood hole in it with a pin into the spiral groove and a second block stopping it from going down but using the step in the shaft but not the top block. finally a block with a blind whole to apply a downward force with chest or hand.
Looks like your hand drill was on the fastest speed setting? If so, I expect everything would be a lot easier with more control and torque by using a slower gear and easing on that trigger!
I have found that the smaller batteries will reduce the amount of torque the drill can supply, try the larger batteries next time. Watch out for the increased torque, it can rip the drill out of your hands.
When I know there's a risk of this happening I always keep one hand on the battery to be able to counter the torque. Sure you can only push with one hand that way but it saves your wrist.
You stalled it because your drill hasn’t enough torque, get a more powerful drill, then learn how to use it and try not to be so ham fisted! By that I mean have more feel and never force your tools, the tools will always do the work if they’re SHARP! all you have to do is guide them also try rubbing a candle along the bit when drilling deep as a lubricant just as you would with a handsaw. 🇬🇧🏴
The drilling gang... www.patreon.com/wordsnwood
This one is just about figuring out a way to make it work!
I had a similar problem, but I didn't have a drill press. my solution was to drill out the holes prior to gluing the boards together. I used the metal bars with wax to keep the alignment while the glue dried. worked like a charm. I always enjoy your videos
Best explanation online, I have done this a few years ago when I needed to go thru a 2 by 10. I had an old citronella candle for wax on the bits. Nice work.....
never thought of the wax, but I should have
I was also going to suggest waxing the bit. I had to do this on a live edge mantle and used a 6" deep square scrap as a guide block that I drilled with the drill press and then clamped to the actual mantle since the curved live edge made it impossible to mount on the drill press. Nevermind that it was also 6ft long and 3 inches thick.
Wouldn't wax wet the hole wall and expand wood fiber and jam bit more?
@@rodenreyes6320 no. Wax isn't wet and doesn't contain water and thus can't swell the fibers of the wood.
Great video Art. I had to do the same thing a couple of years ago. I also drilled a "pilot" hole on my drill press and used the auger bit in a hand drill, but I took the auger bit to my grinder and removed the threads from the lead screw. It worked great! I also waxed the auger bit as I cleared the chips.
Love you practical methods to complete your various tasks. Keep up the good work.
awesome, thanks!
Great job. In fact, trouble shooting is much more interesting than just drilling hole. Thanks for sharing the video. How did you get out the drill bit that was stuck in the wood?
Or is it still there?
Good problem-solving. Meanwhile, for the squeaking, try Glidecoat by Bostik. After you try it on your drilling, put it on your table saw, bandsaw table, on the bottom of your routers, etc.
I wonder if adding something for lubrication on the side of the auger bit would have helped, like paste wax, or a light touch of oil, similar to the Paul Sellers rag in a can with oil trick for saws and hand planes. Anything to reduce the friction between the bit and the walls of the hole.
that's a good idea!
My dad always used bar soap. And on screws also.
I use exactly the same method, but ends it off with an auger bit and a brace.If in a hurry I use the bit extender like you do, BUT also lost a bit in a piece of wood when the bit came loose.Thanks for sharing.
Very interesting and informative video. I like your approach. I would have taken an angle grinder and cut 2 inches off of the rebar.
not my call on that.. and it will make for solid shelves
Great tip, wish I'd known about this pilot hole voodoo when I did my auger bit deep drilling.
Now here's one for you; kick some shims under your drill press, lol.
The floor is definitely not flat, true... 😆 Thanks!
Good work!
It seems your drill press needs to be more stable as it appears to not touching in all four corners. You can use the first two techniques with the auger long bit but file off half of the threads leaving a point but no continuous threads. That would keep it from burrowing and stalling. Use wax on the bit to reduce friction. You’ll still be able to us the auger bit on softer wood but will need to push harder since the auger no longer works as designed.
A few observations. . . Your belt on the drill press is loose. To stop squeek and get the drill bit to move more freely add a bit of margarine to the bit - it works a treat.
Good tip! I was going to suggest candle wax or olive oil on the side of the bit.
Do you think it would have helped to spray "Blade Cote" on the auger bit to reduce the friction?
I'm not familiar with that product, but few folks have just suggested wax, which seems an option.
Good ideas in the comments in addition to your clever solution. I also wonder if this might be the place for a hand brace and a long auger bit to complete the hole. Slow, but low torque & entirely controllable.
I actually have a brace, but no bits that would fit it. Great idea, though!
@@Wordsnwood This is a special thing about woodworking (& creating/making in general), that there are so many possible approaches to solve a problem, limited only by one's imagination & habits.
I drilled some 10 inch holes that had to align with another board on the opposite side. It was 8 to 10 years ago and I can't remember how I did it but your method worked so good job Art!!!
Thanks, Danny
I would agree that drilling the first 5" on the press is a good technique. And I agree that the 8" long bit was a good choice. It's what I would call a ship auger. The wide lands make it self-guiding. But bits of this design should be used in a brace (AKA "cordless drill") unless you have a solid set up and a powerful, low RPM drill. Ebay always has a bunch of quality braces for under $50. They are useful tools in many circumstances.
Would it be worth grinding off the threads of the auger bit?
I wondered about that but thought of this first
Yes. I always grind off the tip so that it doesn't snag.
Use bee's wasx on the bit.
Put your extension in the drill press and drill it Al at one time with a few lifts
Yup, there is usually more than one way to do it, thanks!
Wax or silicone spray lubricant
Yup, should have tried wax.
Did you try the drill on "low" or "1" instead of the fast speed? When I need more torque I drop the speed so that I can power through the hole. Regardless, a good video with good ideas!
Nope, but another good idea, thanks!
I guess if I had to do that with my drill press (/fireworks dispenser) I would have had to turn the table vertical by pressing it into a rod I kept to square it up. Then swing it aside to fit/hold a gauge so that a bit would center on any slab *without* interference. Then clamped the board flush with the resulting 'top' edge of the table between moves.
I'd do this not because it would make it trivially easy to reposition for each drilling operation while maintaining precision - but because I've learned that none of the overlapping ticks from the factory will actually level anything when aligned with the 0° position on the printed scale - and while I do have a 'vertical' handle, turning it releases the lock and sends the table to the floor without any builtin indexing to make returning to a previous position -possible- practical.
It *was* on sale, though the store did very strongly advise people against buying it. And I still mildly regret not buying one *slightly* more like yours - like they suggested..
I have considered tilting my table vertical, but never tried it. But you are right that the angle gauge is not worth much.
@@Wordsnwood Yeah. That one was marked repeatedly wrong was a surprise to the store (more than none of the marks being what they should be), but that the factory probably knew that most people -wouldn't- shouldn't trust it a second time, and making it -impossible- prohibitively difficult to attempt use it a first time all was the most honest they could way to satisfy the importer's buildsheet without taking the time to do it right.
That final drill is for a brace. Not have one a bock of wood hole in it with a pin into the spiral groove and a second block stopping it from going down but using the step in the shaft but not the top block. finally a block with a blind whole to apply a downward force with chest or hand.
Looks like your hand drill was on the fastest speed setting? If so, I expect everything would be a lot easier with more control and torque by using a slower gear and easing on that trigger!
Didn't think to try that... next time! Thanks
Candlewax beeswax or soap ... all of which you have used in the past -- still works for stopping squeals and binding
Fair point.
I have found that the smaller batteries will reduce the amount of torque the drill can supply, try the larger batteries next time. Watch out for the increased torque, it can rip the drill out of your hands.
Yeah, I've had a drill tweak my wrist before and it's not fun. Good tip, thanks!
When I know there's a risk of this happening I always keep one hand on the battery to be able to counter the torque. Sure you can only push with one hand that way but it saves your wrist.
Lubricate your auger. Soap, candle wax, furniture wax, silicon spray etc.
Wax the bit, might help.
Why did you not just cut your workpiece in half and rout out a slot with a round nose bit on both sides and glue the two halves back together?
I used a self centering dowel jig with a 12" long drill bit.
I have a dowelmax jig which is awesome, but not the 12" drillbit.
THe hard part is to not get the drill to drift..🙂
Great drill by the way, my machine can only go 4 cm, that's less than 2 inch...
usually it's tons of depth. thanks!
I have another idea...but it involves a shotgun and some sand bags.
haven't got either of those... ;-)
You stalled it because your drill hasn’t enough torque, get a more powerful drill, then learn how to use it and try not to be so ham fisted! By that I mean have more feel and never force your tools, the tools will always do the work if they’re SHARP! all you have to do is guide them also try rubbing a candle along the bit when drilling deep as a lubricant just as you would with a handsaw. 🇬🇧🏴