Hi I need serious help in backlighting for inspection panel. Is it possible to use AC plug n play with dimmable feature? On what height should I place it to be to have it in 60mm box? And have 1030 lumens for 650 x 350 mm box. Thanks in advance! How much lumens are these
Hi @Amirah Heng - firstly DO NOT try to wire mains AC into the LED unit or strips, you will almost certainly cause a fire or injury if you do. Technically it is possible to make your own AC powered version, but you will need a transformer/rectifier unit to use LEDs (these are sometimes sold as LED drivers). If you do go this route you will also have heat to deal with if the transformer/rectifier is in the LED enclosure, which will then need to be designed for passive or active cooling. To be blunt its probably not worth the effort trying to make a single unit AC powered panel and using a DC powered version using low voltage (12V) is going to be far safer and practical.
The LEDs I used are 12V white high intensity types that are sold in rolls on Amazon pretty cheaply. I can't remember how many lumens they are - if I find the old reel I'll post it here for information.
@@CMDRTeatime I got you on this. I've tried ask a supplier, and he recommended me Edge lit LED. My concern now is will it be showing spots in my light box ( that I cover with 5mm Teflon sheet) so will the light disperse or showing spots instead...
@@amirahheng2274 I've used both a white film and also made another version where I used a random orbital sander (making the acrylic opaque), to act as a light diffuser. Both work OK, but I would say the random orbital sanded version worked better.
I'll try :-) Each of the LED strips has a +ve and -ve connection and "rail" running through it (they should be marked), with the LEDs between them. I soldered two wires from the power socket (+ve to the centre pin on the socket) and from those to two copper wires or rails at each end of the LED strips. Then using small wires solder each + connector on the LED strips to the +ve copper rail (which will all be at one end of the strips) and the - connector on the LED strips to the other -ve copper rail, which should be at the other end of the strips. You can see me soldering in the video in this manner. To make the soldering easier, you can also get snap fit connectors with wires pre-attached for LED strips, rather than trying to solder to the internal connectors/wires on the LED strips. Hope all that makes sense and good luck with your build if you try it.
Sorry this took so long (couldn't find the thermometer) - anyway - start temperature = 7.5 Deg C after 1 hour temperature = 8.7 deg C I'd say negligible temperature increase and what was there could have been ambient.
Hi Tilliboy1234The sheet I used is actually some off cut clear Perspex (example supplier - www.plasticsheets.com/3mm-clear-acrylic-sheet-2040-x-1520/) that still has the plain white protective film left on it to act as a diffuser. You could equally use the frosted type (example supplier - www.plasticsheets.com/3mm-clear-frosted-acrylic-sheet-1500x1000/) I couldn't tell you what the translucency is, as I have no way of measuring that.
Hi Christian - The reel of LEDs came with a transformer - its a 12V DC 1.5Amp output wall wart type and enough to power the whole reel. If I add another reel of LEDs then I will need a bigger or another similar PSU for the extra LEDs. To extend the cable run from the wall wart to the plug that goes into the LED panel I cut the original wires and soldered some wire that I had spare from my CNC machine wiring - that carries 76V at ~3Amps (and rated much higher) on my CNC, so is more than good enough for this purpose. Heat shrinked each solder joint as welll for insulation. Hope that helps.
Thank you, I'm making a light box for tracing. I've been looking over a lot of videos for using LED's as my light source. Your video was the best I've seen. Thank you for responding and for the video. I hope others find it as helpful as I did. Keep up the great work.
I like your video, I want be sure that you said you wire the LED strips in parallel all Positive one one end the strips and all native at the other end? It is a good video other than the sound. Sound needs to be better could hardly hear what you were saying.
Hi Gilbert - thanks for the kind words and yes - the strips are wired in parallel. The only thing to watch for is that you wire the socket for the power supply correctly. Hopefully sound is improving on later videos...
Hi Gilbert - to be absolutely sure its best to test the polarity of the power supply output with a multi-meter, but the normal way is that the wire going to the "core" pin is +ve and the outer ring or sleeve is -ve. The wires are also normally colored red (or black and white) for +ve and black (or solid black) for -ve. The LED strips themselves are labelled, so you shouldn't have any problems there. Hope that helps.
Not sure I understand the question properly, but you will need + going to one rail and make sure that's connected to the +ve side of the strips of LEDs and - going to the other rail and connect that to the -ve side of the strips of LEDs. The strips of LEDs are marked with + and - on the connectors to help you. Hope that helps.
Good request. Here's the materials needed: 1 piece of plywood for the back @ 700x400x5mm (you can use other sizes and thicknesses if you wish0 1 piece of acrylic for the top @ 700x400x3mm (you can use white or use clear, but leave the white film on) 2 side battens (any wood will do) @ 15x15x700mm 2 end battens @ 15x15x370mm 1 x 5 metre reel of bright white LED strip (Amazon do these cheaply and get the reel that comes with a 12v 2A transformer) 1 transformer socket (I think these are for a 5.5mm power supply plug and have the +ve terminal in the centre) 2 strips of copper wire for -ve and +ve rails (I got these for some old mains cable that I stripped the insulation from) Some hot glue to make sure the LED strips, power socket and rails stay stuck Solder and soldering iron of course, plus the other tools you can see me use in the video... Hope that helps and good luck with your build.
Hi Viqar Akram - I'll repost this from another comment below somewhere as I measured the temperature a while back, as somebody else asked the same thing: Start temperature = 7.5 Deg C after 1 hour temperature = 8.7 deg C
Hi I need serious help in backlighting for inspection panel. Is it possible to use AC plug n play with dimmable feature? On what height should I place it to be to have it in 60mm box? And have 1030 lumens for 650 x 350 mm box. Thanks in advance! How much lumens are these
Can you specify what type of LED you are using? I couldn't catch that huhu
Hi @Amirah Heng - firstly DO NOT try to wire mains AC into the LED unit or strips, you will almost certainly cause a fire or injury if you do.
Technically it is possible to make your own AC powered version, but you will need a transformer/rectifier unit to use LEDs (these are sometimes sold as LED drivers). If you do go this route you will also have heat to deal with if the transformer/rectifier is in the LED enclosure, which will then need to be designed for passive or active cooling. To be blunt its probably not worth the effort trying to make a single unit AC powered panel and using a DC powered version using low voltage (12V) is going to be far safer and practical.
The LEDs I used are 12V white high intensity types that are sold in rolls on Amazon pretty cheaply. I can't remember how many lumens they are - if I find the old reel I'll post it here for information.
@@CMDRTeatime I got you on this. I've tried ask a supplier, and he recommended me Edge lit LED. My concern now is will it be showing spots in my light box ( that I cover with 5mm Teflon sheet) so will the light disperse or showing spots instead...
@@amirahheng2274 I've used both a white film and also made another version where I used a random orbital sander (making the acrylic opaque), to act as a light diffuser. Both work OK, but I would say the random orbital sanded version worked better.
THanks for sharing. How did you make the connection. please explain...
I'll try :-)
Each of the LED strips has a +ve and -ve connection and "rail" running through it (they should be marked), with the LEDs between them.
I soldered two wires from the power socket (+ve to the centre pin on the socket) and from those to two copper wires or rails at each end of the LED strips. Then using small wires solder each + connector on the LED strips to the +ve copper rail (which will all be at one end of the strips) and the - connector on the LED strips to the other -ve copper rail, which should be at the other end of the strips. You can see me soldering in the video in this manner.
To make the soldering easier, you can also get snap fit connectors with wires pre-attached for LED strips, rather than trying to solder to the internal connectors/wires on the LED strips.
Hope all that makes sense and good luck with your build if you try it.
Is there any heat generated and if so might it get overly hot?
Hi - I don't recall it getting hot, but when I go down to the workshop tomorrow morning I'll take a thermometer, check it and report back.
Sorry this took so long (couldn't find the thermometer) - anyway - start temperature = 7.5 Deg C after 1 hour temperature = 8.7 deg C
I'd say negligible temperature increase and what was there could have been ambient.
what kind of acrylglas is this. ?
Whats the translucency of the Glas? 30 %?
Hi Tilliboy1234The sheet I used is actually some off cut clear Perspex (example supplier - www.plasticsheets.com/3mm-clear-acrylic-sheet-2040-x-1520/) that still has the plain white protective film left on it to act as a diffuser.
You could equally use the frosted type (example supplier - www.plasticsheets.com/3mm-clear-frosted-acrylic-sheet-1500x1000/)
I couldn't tell you what the translucency is, as I have no way of measuring that.
a
VTilliboy1234
Great video, I have a couple questions. 1) What do you use to connect to the power source? 2) How do you figure our what type of power source to use?
Hi Christian - The reel of LEDs came with a transformer - its a 12V DC 1.5Amp output wall wart type and enough to power the whole reel. If I add another reel of LEDs then I will need a bigger or another similar PSU for the extra LEDs.
To extend the cable run from the wall wart to the plug that goes into the LED panel I cut the original wires and soldered some wire that I had spare from my CNC machine wiring - that carries 76V at ~3Amps (and rated much higher) on my CNC, so is more than good enough for this purpose. Heat shrinked each solder joint as welll for insulation.
Hope that helps.
Thank you, I'm making a light box for tracing. I've been looking over a lot of videos for using LED's as my light source. Your video was the best I've seen. Thank you for responding and for the video. I hope others find it as helpful as I did.
Keep up the great work.
Nicely put together video!
Thank you - that's very kind.
Ye light kaha milega
I like your video, I want be sure that you said you wire the LED strips in parallel all Positive one one end the strips and all native at the other end? It is a good video other than the sound. Sound needs to be better could hardly hear what you were saying.
Hi Gilbert - thanks for the kind words and yes - the strips are wired in parallel. The only thing to watch for is that you wire the socket for the power supply correctly.
Hopefully sound is improving on later videos...
Thanks for replying to my question, have another one, How do I wire the socket for the power supply correctly
Hi Gilbert - to be absolutely sure its best to test the polarity of the power supply output with a multi-meter, but the normal way is that the wire going to the "core" pin is +ve and the outer ring or sleeve is -ve. The wires are also normally colored red (or black and white) for +ve and black (or solid black) for -ve. The LED strips themselves are labelled, so you shouldn't have any problems there.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for the answer.
Gilbert Boshell صالحل
Nice work
Thank you Aaron
Sheet name ??
perspex glass
Ok Nice to pass some time > half day as i told nice for Hobby
+or- connection and input line
Not sure I understand the question properly, but you will need + going to one rail and make sure that's connected to the +ve side of the strips of LEDs and - going to the other rail and connect that to the -ve side of the strips of LEDs. The strips of LEDs are marked with + and - on the connectors to help you.
Hope that helps.
Nise
please provide matireal details
Good request. Here's the materials needed:
1 piece of plywood for the back @ 700x400x5mm (you can use other sizes and thicknesses if you wish0
1 piece of acrylic for the top @ 700x400x3mm (you can use white or use clear, but leave the white film on)
2 side battens (any wood will do) @ 15x15x700mm
2 end battens @ 15x15x370mm
1 x 5 metre reel of bright white LED strip (Amazon do these cheaply and get the reel that comes with a 12v 2A transformer)
1 transformer socket (I think these are for a 5.5mm power supply plug and have the +ve terminal in the centre)
2 strips of copper wire for -ve and +ve rails (I got these for some old mains cable that I stripped the insulation from)
Some hot glue to make sure the LED strips, power socket and rails stay stuck
Solder and soldering iron of course, plus the other tools you can see me use in the video...
Hope that helps and good luck with your build.
WOOD be scared using plywood what about heat transfer and fire...
Hi Viqar Akram - I'll repost this from another comment below somewhere as I measured the temperature a while back, as somebody else asked the same thing:
Start temperature = 7.5 Deg C after 1 hour temperature = 8.7 deg C
Good
Nice video
Thanks and welcome to the channel
Nice
Nice
New
😎nice
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Hi
sir apka add & mo no
javed LED
Deepakshign
KOEE v asa bnalega
Good