It totally changes how you use many implements. I do many things with a brush cutter that I would never be able to do using a manually adjustable top link.
For anyone that really doesn't like the "spillage" issue, swap the quick connects on the tractor to female flat face quick connects (like on construction equipment), the female side are more expensive, so if you use those on the tractor, the males side can be used on all your various implements, where you will likely need more connectors (eventually). 1/2" is the standard size on skid steers and work fine, but you can easily go down to 3/8" or 1/4" to save cost without impacting flow capacity on a tractor. These will not have the "spillage" but you will have some residue on the face of each side when you disconnect, but much easier to clean. I am not saying this is necessary, but if the "spillage" bothers you, it is an easy option to eliminate it. Okay, now everyone else is free to roast away on this..... Great video TTWT, should help a lot of people!! Have a good one TTWT, Bullseye and Bow & Arrow!! (and Chirsty & Katriel)
Great video Tim! Thank you. I've gotta say, the hydraulic top link has been one of the handiest additions to my machine, money very well spent. I put a top and tilt kit together for my tractor a few years ago and used the dual piloted check valve style cylinder for my top link. I used the specs from my tractor's owner's manual to size my cylinder lengths. For top link hoses, I left the check valve block in it's factory installed position, used 45° fittings that are pointed towards the implement, and made the hoses long enough to form a loop. That gives the top link full range of motion with zero stress to the fittings.
I bought my JD 4120 in 2010. I have severe back issues and needed to make my tractor easy to run w o getting off so much. My salesman said that he used a large cylinder for a top link. I don’t think there were dedicated hydraulic top links back then because when he delivered my tractor & hydraulic top link it is massive. I think the cylinder is about 5-6” in diameter & about 12- 14” long. I’d have to measure to be certain. Very heavy. But I’ve never had any issues w it whatsoever. It doesn’t have the check valve on it but works fine. I’ve had no leakage from it. But like I said they just found a hydraulic cylinder they thought would work and that’s what I’ve been using. When I made my hoses the guy at Napa recommended using a 45 degree rotating connector. It gives much more movement wo binding up. I greatly recommend anyone who has a tractor to get a hydro top link. It makes using implements so much more easier & efficient. You can grade w a box blade and change the poison the move & don’t have to stop and tighten or loosen the top link then get to work & realize it needs more tightening etc. You just move you’re lever and keep working. I find it works well w my rotary cutter very well especially when cutting ditches for example. Backup to it and lower the link and it’ll angle down the side of the ditch or if the slope it up it’ll do so there too. A hydro top link along w a quick hitch transforms your tractor and makes it more enjoyable to use in my opinion. They were well worth the money especially if you have back issues.
When i bought my 4052 it had “top and tilt” on it. I wouldn’t have ordered with it, but boy is it handy. Wouldn’t be without it now. Nice job Tim and Christy. Blessings.
Thanks for confirming the LX issue and the solution to it. We did buy a top link last year from Agristore, but wasn’t able to mate it to my LX2610. We assumed we’d need to grind it down, and it’s been on our to-do list for a year, but will see about getting that done this fall.
I wish I went with swivel couplings when I made my top link setup two years ago. It is absolutely the way to go and worth the cost. The hydraulic top link will make you realize how useful adjusting the top link is for many attachements.
I got a Massey Ferguson GC1723E this year and only a box blade for helping fix up the yard. After having to adjust the pitch of the box blade by hand a few times I instantly defaulted to saying (Looks like I'm getting a hydraulic top-link when possible.) The same goes for getting a quick hitch setup. :)
Great information for those who have not yet purchased a hydraulic top link. For those that already have one similar to the Grizzly (which is a great top link), there is an option. Knowing that the Summit valves do leak pressure over time I added the Summit Hydraulics double pilot operated check valve (DCV40-08N) at the same time I installed the Summit rear kit. You need to make up two additional hoses but it works really well. I wish I could upload a photo of my install to give better idea of what my solution was.
Would love to have a similar video for hydraulic side link. I find myself wanting to change the angle of the box blade to crown the driveway more often than the top link, and when I do need to change the top link I can just reach back and don’t have to get off the tractor anyway so it’s not nearly as disruptive to work flow
Me to, love this video update for top link, but from all I've seen with JD, Kubota, etc, the side link is the hardest cylinder to find. The only reason I haven't updated to summit kit, which I need wheelchair bound veteran to run my box blade/ grader blade is side link for crowning. Outstanding followup video Tim, but would love to see a side link video along same guidelines. What do you have, have you found a better version, good versus bad if your existing. Again love your channel, I bought my 22 1025r directly because of you and love it more than I could ever say, thank you!! Good bless you and your family, and everyone on this channel.
Do it, you'll never regret it. Grew up running 3 pt implements and making a pass and jumping down and adjusting things and making another pass. Makes crowning a road or cutting slope effortless. Especially since you'll benefit from being able to adjust it on the fly and feather things out when needed. One of the best features I opted for when I bought my Kubota L47.
Iso Tunes ordered. The wife needed a new method to listen to music and talk on the phone while having the top and doors off in the Jeep. We will see how well they work.
Tim, a great video. Very informative. I've been wanting to add a hydraulic top link to my 1025R. Great timing. Thanks for taking the time to go over what's out there. The good and the bad.
Great video Tim and much appreciated. My 2038R tractor package is being delivered at the end of Oct 22 and I’ve been looking at Agristore as a source for my hydraulic top link. Now I know for sure that’s what I will purchase.
Ordered mine and they came within a few days and so far so good. Tractor is just sitting in shed right now. The only thing I did not know is if there was a specific torque value when installing hoses to cylinder. So far I used the 24 inch hoses. But I ordered both just in case.
The hydraulic top liink (which I learned about originally from you) is a game changer. It's one of the best things I have added to me tractor. A box blade is frustraating as all get out without it and I have found it to be pricelessly valuable on pretty much everything I put on the 3 point. I found that the top link length was effected by a Pat's Easy Hitch, it needed to be longer and when I went to the imatch because I put on a backhoe system, that made a difference too, so measuring these with care is pretty important. I would also suggest not selling the one you pull off when changing hitch methods because I had to buy the shorter one again when I went to the imatch... live and leaarn. As Usual, Good info, Mr. Tim!
I wish I had seen this before I bought the hydraulic top link for my L2501. Works great for my box blade, but I could have used the reduced length when fully retracted on other implements. Great recommendation, Tim.
Great video, as always. I am a bit ignorant on all this. Also lacking time. SO I apologies if this is a ridiculous question. I have a 2021 2025R, love it! I want to add the hydraulic top link, and Tim sold me on the link from Agristoreusa. I have a backhoe on the unit. What is the best way to hook up the hydraulics? I have seen summit, but what are the options pros and cons. Again, I apologize if this is an ignorant question.
Awesome video. Ordered 2 sets of hoses from discount hydraulic tonight. Not sure why I missed seeing this video, it is a really good one. Also really loved that they offered the assortments of fittings. Ordered some fitting assortments as well. Thanks again for the TTWT discount code.
Great video Tim, I've been watching your videos since your little garage @ the old house and only had one johnny.. I added a 2032 to my "fleet" and was looking into a hydraulic top link. The information in the video give me confidence that I can order the parts from agristore and complete the installation myself. I would add that the mesh hydraulic hose cover or sock would be a great finishing touch.
Good info Tim. I've been looking for a good top link for my B2601 Kubota. And yes you will have to grind down the top link. Annoying i know. B series still have the stubby pto as well (really Kubota? Stop that). Thankfully i haven't any issues with my attachments. Despite those 2 annoying faults I really like my tractor. I use it commercially, digging, grading, mowing and just about everything else. It amassed 270 hours the first year. Completely 100% reliable.
Good video Tim. I've been using the Agristore top link for over two years, it's the only one I recommend on every post regarding hydraulic top links. I did reverse the check block and all was well, very good quality top link IMO. As for the oil mess, it's just part of the game as you said, the PTO cover on my 2038R was always a mess from hooking and unhooking, wipe it off and clean until next time.
Great instructional video Tim. I liked the part about the leaking connectors, and I sometimes wonder why people blame a widget or such when they don't know how it works. The orange cleaner is a great product and I have used them for over 30 years at work. I no longer have the orange towels like you have but instead, because of cost, I buy the orange cleaner in a spray bottle and spray it into the shop towel and use it that way.
Very timely video. I am just getting ready to buy a hydraulic top link and appreciate this information. I never would have thought about the need for a check valve. I was a little concerned when you mentioned your Kubota LX issue. However, it isn't a problem. I have an older (maybe 1990's) Kubota B1700 and a 2021 Kubota L4760. In measuring the space between the two flanges on the tractor itself, the B1700 is 1-3/4" wide on it is almost 2" on the L4760. Therefore, while the top link itself is only 1-1/2" wide, the 1-3/4" hydraulic will fit just fine without grinding. I would assume you would find the same on your LX
I added a hydraulic top link to my Kubota B3200 several months back. I also had to grind down the ball ends a little to get it to clear on the tractor side. It's been a great addition to the box blade!
I take delivery of a 2023 1025r later this week. I have ordered the Summit 4 spool rear hydraulic kit to install. Enjoyed the video on the hydraulic top link. I would be interested in your recommendations for a hydraulic side link as some others have requested. Keep up the good work!
Have watched your video a number of times. Purchased the top link from Agristore & it works well. Have had some hydraulic leakage issues though. What would you recommend for a hydraulic side link for a 3 series JD & would you consider doing a Video on a hydraulic side link. Wish you had talked about using the hydraulic top link with the JD iMatch quick hitch attachment. Have been told a longer top link is preferable in that regard? Thanks
I use it with I-match. Not sure why longer would be preferred in that situation. I suppose personal preference. I have no need to extend top link any further, and frequent need to have it short (raises attachment a bit higher for loading, etc)
Thank you. I was Agristore suggestion when used with the I-match. ? Do u have any recommendations for a hydraulic side link? Agristore doesn’t seem to have the right length with a ball top & Clevis.
Hi Tim great video as usual full of very useful facts and information but boy oh boy do I wish you folks would get with the metric system like the rest of the world😊
@@TractorTimewithTim I am one of the relics holding everyone back on switching to the metric system. I suppose if we really switched I would learn what the dimension is. However when someone says 20C I have no idea what temperature that is and don't care!! Use the good old American system!! Wasn't it Jimmy Carter that said we were switching over to metric. Yes Jimmy Carter pushed it a bit but the law was signed in 1975 under Bush SR. The unions did not like the idea because it would make it easier to ship jobs overseas. I do not think the USA is in a hurry to switch to metric. According to Google Andrew Johnson signed a metric act in 1866 😃 (68F I can get the conversion from the computer)
Great video - THANK YOU! I purchased a hydraulic top link for my 2025R but when I was searching, all of the options I found were either 16 1/8" retracted or way too long, so I bought one 16 1/8". I use a box blade for snow and I sometimes like to use it backing up to remove ice from the driveway. The extended length of 22 7/16" is too short to get the rear blade engaged well. AgriStoreUSA has one that is 18 1/8 retracted which is perfect for my application. Thanks again!
Permatex thread sealer is what I prefer to use. If you have a drain plug that keeps weeping clean the threads first put some on the threads and the leak is gone.
We had a hydraulic top link put on our 3560 Grand L. I don't think the dealer made any adjustments and it wasn't a Kubota OEM. I think the LX is a one off on engineering. I wish I had known about this top link because ours does have some sag and needs to be adjusted while working. However, that is easy to by just pushing a lever. They are great to make adjustments on the fly and to keep in working 💪
Very informative. We are looking for a solution for a large MF4707 (cat 2). Seems as if the Massey guys on the internet are using this unit now as well.
The agristore links look to be the way to go. I need the whole setup. Added to my Chinesium chunker. Front and rear remotes. What would be your recommendation? Other than buying a new tractor that already has them installed. I wish I could lol
My 3039R John Deere Tractor has three places to attach the top link to the tractor. I currently always use the center point. What are the other connections used for?
I have to agree with everyone that adding a hydraulic top link (and the summit 4 spool 6 port rear hydraulic/front 2 port 3rd function kit) was an awesome addition to our 1025R. One minor issue I've been having though is that all 6 of the ½" hydraulic couplers keep loosening off and spewing out hydraulic fluid through the o-ring connection. Are you also experiencing this with your Summit hydraulic kit? I have admittedly been working my hydraulics very hard, lifting enormous pieces of wood, huge stumps, huge rocks, plug using the backhoe to remove about 30 stumps so far (some so heavy I can't lift them more than 1" with 2200psi and my front grapple). What I find is every ~50 hours of hard use and about 15 to 20 hot/cold cycles all 6 of the rear ½" couplers are loose and randomly will start to leak. The last time (yesterday) I was working the backhoe and got showered with uncomfortably hot hydraulic fluid all over my right arm. Tightening them back up resolves the issue until they eventually loosen again. When removing stumps I'm probably working the bypass valve 25% of the time so the hydraulics heat up to the point it is uncomfortable to touch the hydraulic cylinders and the transaxle. So far since July I've put about 180 hours on the summit kit& the 1025R and 3 times I've had to tighten all 6 of the couplers again (and I tighten them quite tight, each time a bit tighter too). I'm wondering if I should clean them with brake cleaner and try loctite next time. Thoughts?
Thanks for this, I've been looking for someone to cover top links with a check valve. I've put off the purchase of one for my 2022 1025R until I could learn more.
I will be a new tractor owner, I plan to buy the Kubota L2502. I see Kubota has the top & tilt option, but can I just get the hydraulic top link installed from the dealer/factory or do they require the top and sides?
The valve mounted on the cylinder isn't just a check valve. That valve is actually called a counter balance valve. What it does is block the ports from return till there is pressure applied to the opposite port.
Hi Tim. I need your advice. I love your videos and have been a subscriber for years. We are redoing our yard, which is a new construction. The soil was terrible, and the builder reused the soil that was here and never brought in good soil. The grass is terrible and the yard consists of mostly just weeds and crabgrass. I am having a bunch of Phil brought in to fix some of the grading issues and also topsoil. From my understanding, the entire yard should be tilled up even in the areas that we add Phil? Certainly in the areas that don’t need fill and then add topsoil to the tilled ground. Would you also then till the topsoil with the existing soil and mix it together, but not do that where the fill is added underneath the topsoil? Your advice would be greatly appreciated!
They sell 2 hose kits on agristore one with ball and one with valve connectors.. can you clarify which we need? I have a 1025r. I think the valve style is what we need. My tractor is at a friends house right now and I cant check.
I looked on the agristore and picked out a Cat I top link. Now, about the hose kits. They have several options and I don't know if I have a valve coupler or ball type and if my TYM 2515h has 1/4, or 1/2" fittings. Anyway to figure this out without the tractor being in front of me? I am 100's of miles away from my tractor at this time and won't be near it for several months
Another very enlightening video Tim, Thanks! Speaking of Hydraulics, haven't seen backhoe or excavator videos for a while.... or maybe I just missed them. I came across the Engcon brand today in researching mini & electric excavators. Have you had a look at what they offer? Maybe one of their products might be able to increase the versatility of backhoes? Look forward too hearing what you think after checking them out. Maybe the EC02 tiltrotator & EC204 tiltrotators for example. God bless!
Not sure if you still read these comments. I have watched this video twice but still am not sure what to order for my Deere 2038R with factory rear connections. I want a top link mainly for box-blade use but also other uses. Went to agristoreusa and saw the cylinder for my model there but not sure if that's the one you recommended here. Also, I have no idea what hoses to purchase. I sure could use some help with exactly what I need to order for my tractor. Might consider a tilt cylinder later, but thought I'd start with the top cylinder firs. Thanks.
I'm curious if you have used that hydraulic top link with check valve on a floatable detent remote? Will that check valve lock it up and not allow it to float?
Great video. I need help finding the correct hydraulic top link for a New Holland 545D Industrial tractor I recently purchased and it had no top link on it when I purchased it. I know it has Cat II 3 point arms but that's all. I can't seem to find any top link on New Holland online parts lookup so I wanted to see if you might know. Thanks
They are pretty standard. You could get a cheap top link at tractor supply to test for length. …then order the appropriate hydraulic link from AgriStoreUSA.com use code TTWT for 5% off.
Hi Tim: Great video. Very helpful. I just received my 06003 top link cylinder from AgristoreUSA. Unfortunately, the two cylinder endcaps are 90 degrees offset to each other rather than inline. I need them to be inline for my Kubota LX2610. Can I rotate the cylinder endcap by 90 degrees? If so, do you know how? Or, do I have to cut off one of the endcaps and reweld it to be inline with the other one?
Good Day Tim. I went with the top cylinder from AgriStore and it fits and works perfectly well on my 1025R. I am wondering about the tilt option though. Looked at the FitRite option but right now they are looking at 36 weeks to produce. I have searched most if not all of the sources you have used but noticing comes up as an option. Likely there is another option out there but not sure where to look or who to reach out too. Trusting you knowledge and opinion, I am asking here. Thanks for your well done and informative videos.
Great video Tim! Do you know if the factory rear remotes on my 2038R are valve type, or ball type couplers? I want to order the top link from Agristore and don’t know witch hose kit to order.
Measure your existing top link, retracted. Get the AgriStoreUSA.com link which is a bit shorter. I suspect it will be the 18”-26” version. Use code ttwt for 5% discount.
Tim, First off that in your for all of your informative videos. I recently purchased a 1965 ford 4000. The top link was missing upon purchase. I have rear remotes and was really hoping to have a hydraulic top link installed. Can you recommend one for me? Thank you
The only question would be the length required. Here is what Steiner tractor parts lists as a compatible top link. www.steinertractor.com/FDS023-Top-Link-Category-1 Note that they say 16" tube which would mean about 20 inches between pins when fully retracted. I like the retracted length of the hydraulic version to be shorter than the standard...to increase flexibility. So, I would choose either the 18 1/8" or 19 1/2" Category 1 links from agristoreUSA.com use code TTWT for 5% off. I suspect you would be happy with either one.
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Kioti ck2810 conpact tractor owner. Best thing I ever bought was a hydraulic top link! It makes the job so much easier with the box blade especially.
It totally changes how you use many implements. I do many things with a brush cutter that I would never be able to do using a manually adjustable top link.
For anyone that really doesn't like the "spillage" issue, swap the quick connects on the tractor to female flat face quick connects (like on construction equipment), the female side are more expensive, so if you use those on the tractor, the males side can be used on all your various implements, where you will likely need more connectors (eventually). 1/2" is the standard size on skid steers and work fine, but you can easily go down to 3/8" or 1/4" to save cost without impacting flow capacity on a tractor. These will not have the "spillage" but you will have some residue on the face of each side when you disconnect, but much easier to clean.
I am not saying this is necessary, but if the "spillage" bothers you, it is an easy option to eliminate it. Okay, now everyone else is free to roast away on this.....
Great video TTWT, should help a lot of people!!
Have a good one TTWT, Bullseye and Bow & Arrow!! (and Chirsty & Katriel)
Great video Tim! Thank you. I've gotta say, the hydraulic top link has been one of the handiest additions to my machine, money very well spent. I put a top and tilt kit together for my tractor a few years ago and used the dual piloted check valve style cylinder for my top link. I used the specs from my tractor's owner's manual to size my cylinder lengths. For top link hoses, I left the check valve block in it's factory installed position, used 45° fittings that are pointed towards the implement, and made the hoses long enough to form a loop. That gives the top link full range of motion with zero stress to the fittings.
I bought my JD 4120 in 2010. I have severe back issues and needed to make my tractor easy to run w o getting off so much. My salesman said that he used a large cylinder for a top link. I don’t think there were dedicated hydraulic top links back then because when he delivered my tractor & hydraulic top link it is massive.
I think the cylinder is about 5-6” in diameter & about 12- 14” long. I’d have to measure to be certain. Very heavy. But I’ve never had any issues w it whatsoever. It doesn’t have the check valve on it but works fine. I’ve had no leakage from it. But like I said they just found a hydraulic cylinder they thought would work and that’s what I’ve been using.
When I made my hoses the guy at Napa recommended using a 45 degree rotating connector. It gives much more movement wo binding up.
I greatly recommend anyone who has a tractor to get a hydro top link. It makes using implements so much more easier & efficient. You can grade w a box blade and change the poison the move & don’t have to stop and tighten or loosen the top link then get to work & realize it needs more tightening etc. You just move you’re lever and keep working.
I find it works well w my rotary cutter very well especially when cutting ditches for example. Backup to it and lower the link and it’ll angle down the side of the ditch or if the slope it up it’ll do so there too.
A hydro top link along w a quick hitch transforms your tractor and makes it more enjoyable to use in my opinion. They were well worth the money especially if you have back issues.
When i bought my 4052 it had “top and tilt” on it. I wouldn’t have ordered with it, but boy is it handy. Wouldn’t be without it now. Nice job Tim and Christy. Blessings.
I believe this is the same top link that I have. I bought it from another online retailer. Italian made, and a really good quality.
Thanks for confirming the LX issue and the solution to it. We did buy a top link last year from Agristore, but wasn’t able to mate it to my LX2610. We assumed we’d need to grind it down, and it’s been on our to-do list for a year, but will see about getting that done this fall.
I wish I went with swivel couplings when I made my top link setup two years ago. It is absolutely the way to go and worth the cost. The hydraulic top link will make you realize how useful adjusting the top link is for many attachements.
I got a Massey Ferguson GC1723E this year and only a box blade for helping fix up the yard. After having to adjust the pitch of the box blade by hand a few times I instantly defaulted to saying (Looks like I'm getting a hydraulic top-link when possible.) The same goes for getting a quick hitch setup. :)
I love your integrity and your knowledge!
I love that you gave a special mention to your cats! ❤❤❤
I bought a hydraulic top link based on one of your previous videos and it made using a box blade so much better
Great information for those who have not yet purchased a hydraulic top link. For those that already have one similar to the Grizzly (which is a great top link), there is an option. Knowing that the Summit valves do leak pressure over time I added the Summit Hydraulics double pilot operated check valve (DCV40-08N) at the same time I installed the Summit rear kit. You need to make up two additional hoses but it works really well. I wish I could upload a photo of my install to give better idea of what my solution was.
Would love to have a similar video for hydraulic side link. I find myself wanting to change the angle of the box blade to crown the driveway more often than the top link, and when I do need to change the top link I can just reach back and don’t have to get off the tractor anyway so it’s not nearly as disruptive to work flow
Me to, love this video update for top link, but from all I've seen with JD, Kubota, etc, the side link is the hardest cylinder to find. The only reason I haven't updated to summit kit, which I need wheelchair bound veteran to run my box blade/ grader blade is side link for crowning. Outstanding followup video Tim, but would love to see a side link video along same guidelines. What do you have, have you found a better version, good versus bad if your existing. Again love your channel, I bought my 22 1025r directly because of you and love it more than I could ever say, thank you!! Good bless you and your family, and everyone on this channel.
Do it, you'll never regret it. Grew up running 3 pt implements and making a pass and jumping down and adjusting things and making another pass. Makes crowning a road or cutting slope effortless. Especially since you'll benefit from being able to adjust it on the fly and feather things out when needed. One of the best features I opted for when I bought my Kubota L47.
Iso Tunes ordered. The wife needed a new method to listen to music and talk on the phone while having the top and doors off in the Jeep. We will see how well they work.
Fascinates me that NPT is still used for hydraulics. Love this channel and I don't even have a tractor. yet...
Tim, a great video. Very informative. I've been wanting to add a hydraulic top link to my 1025R. Great timing. Thanks for taking the time to go over what's out there. The good and the bad.
Great video Tim and much appreciated. My 2038R tractor package is being delivered at the end of Oct 22 and I’ve been looking at Agristore as a source for my hydraulic top link. Now I know for sure that’s what I will purchase.
Ordered mine and they came within a few days and so far so good. Tractor is just sitting in shed right now. The only thing I did not know is if there was a specific torque value when installing hoses to cylinder. So far I used the 24 inch hoses. But I ordered both just in case.
The hydraulic top liink (which I learned about originally from you) is a game changer. It's one of the best things I have added to me tractor. A box blade is frustraating as all get out without it and I have found it to be pricelessly valuable on pretty much everything I put on the 3 point. I found that the top link length was effected by a Pat's Easy Hitch, it needed to be longer and when I went to the imatch because I put on a backhoe system, that made a difference too, so measuring these with care is pretty important. I would also suggest not selling the one you pull off when changing hitch methods because I had to buy the shorter one again when I went to the imatch... live and leaarn. As Usual, Good info, Mr. Tim!
I wish I had seen this before I bought the hydraulic top link for my L2501. Works great for my box blade, but I could have used the reduced length when fully retracted on other implements. Great recommendation, Tim.
Great video, as always. I am a bit ignorant on all this. Also lacking time. SO I apologies if this is a ridiculous question. I have a 2021 2025R, love it! I want to add the hydraulic top link, and Tim sold me on the link from Agristoreusa. I have a backhoe on the unit. What is the best way to hook up the hydraulics? I have seen summit, but what are the options pros and cons. Again, I apologize if this is an ignorant question.
Awesome video. Ordered 2 sets of hoses from discount hydraulic tonight. Not sure why I missed seeing this video, it is a really good one. Also really loved that they offered the assortments of fittings. Ordered some fitting assortments as well. Thanks again for the TTWT discount code.
Thanks for the kind words, and for ordering from one of our partners! It keeps us going!
Rear remotes should have a float mode. Sometimes there is a need for the rear implement to flow with the ground.
Great video Tim, I've been watching your videos since your little garage @ the old house and only had one johnny..
I added a 2032 to my "fleet" and was looking into a hydraulic top link. The information in the video give me confidence that I can order the parts from agristore and complete the installation myself. I would add that the mesh hydraulic hose cover or sock would be a great finishing touch.
Good info Tim. I've been looking for a good top link for my B2601 Kubota. And yes you will have to grind down the top link. Annoying i know. B series still have the stubby pto as well (really Kubota? Stop that). Thankfully i haven't any issues with my attachments. Despite those 2 annoying faults I really like my tractor. I use it commercially, digging, grading, mowing and just about everything else. It amassed 270 hours the first year. Completely 100% reliable.
Lots of capability in a small size. Glad you are enjoying it.
Tim I truly appreciate all your videos, including this one how much detail that you go through much appreciated
Great video Tim! Extremely helpful. I would be interested in seeing one on hydraulic tilt links as well.
Yes, working on it.
I would like to add another vote for tilt also. By the way, NPT stands for National Pipe Taper, not thread😁
Good video Tim.
I've been using the Agristore top link for over two years, it's the only one I recommend on every post regarding hydraulic top links. I did reverse the check block and all was well, very good quality top link IMO. As for the oil mess, it's just part of the game as you said, the PTO cover on my 2038R was always a mess from hooking and unhooking, wipe it off and clean until next time.
Thanks Pat!
I have a L3901 Kubota and had no trouble finding a hydraulic top link to fit.
Great instructional video Tim. I liked the part about the leaking connectors, and I sometimes wonder why people blame a widget or such when they don't know how it works. The orange cleaner is a great product and I have used them for over 30 years at work. I no longer have the orange towels like you have but instead, because of cost, I buy the orange cleaner in a spray bottle and spray it into the shop towel and use it that way.
Ah, makes sense! Maybe a good way to save a few $$
Thank you so much for including the 5E, I was wondering what size to get. Much appreciated!!
Very timely video. I am just getting ready to buy a hydraulic top link and appreciate this information. I never would have thought about the need for a check valve. I was a little concerned when you mentioned your Kubota LX issue. However, it isn't a problem. I have an older (maybe 1990's) Kubota B1700 and a 2021 Kubota L4760. In measuring the space between the two flanges on the tractor itself, the B1700 is 1-3/4" wide on it is almost 2" on the L4760. Therefore, while the top link itself is only 1-1/2" wide, the 1-3/4" hydraulic will fit just fine without grinding. I would assume you would find the same on your LX
Not on LX. I tried it.
I use some brake clean to clean my hydraulic connections. I do leave them connected though so the brake clean doesn’t affect the o-rings.
I enjoyed your discussion today Tim!!
I added a hydraulic top link to my Kubota B3200 several months back. I also had to grind down the ball ends a little to get it to clear on the tractor side. It's been a great addition to the box blade!
I take delivery of a 2023 1025r later this week. I have ordered the Summit 4 spool rear hydraulic kit to install. Enjoyed the video on the hydraulic top link. I would be interested in your recommendations for a hydraulic side link as some others have requested. Keep up the good work!
I know it’s been 3 months, but just dropped the coin for my top link. Thanks for the discount code!
Thanks Bob. I really like this top link.
Thanks Tim. Been looking for a hydraulic top link. This was helpful!
Have watched your video a number of times. Purchased the top link from Agristore & it works well. Have had some hydraulic leakage issues though. What would you recommend for a hydraulic side link for a 3 series JD & would you consider doing a Video on a hydraulic side link. Wish you had talked about using the hydraulic top link with the JD iMatch quick hitch attachment. Have been told a longer top link is preferable in that regard? Thanks
I use it with I-match. Not sure why longer would be preferred in that situation.
I suppose personal preference.
I have no need to extend top link any further, and frequent need to have it short (raises attachment a bit higher for loading, etc)
Thank you. I was Agristore suggestion when used with the I-match. ?
Do u have any recommendations for a hydraulic side link? Agristore doesn’t seem to have the right length with a ball top & Clevis.
Bought my top link from Agristore, and it absolutely works great!
Great info Tim. Thanks for the intel on Agristoreusa. Will definitely check them out.
Good information for making this change. Appreciated.
Hi Tim great video as usual full of very useful facts and information but boy oh boy do I wish you folks would get with the metric system like the rest of the world😊
Frankly…so do I!
@@TractorTimewithTim I am one of the relics holding everyone back on switching to the metric system. I suppose if we really switched I would learn what the dimension is. However when someone says 20C I have no idea what temperature that is and don't care!! Use the good old American system!! Wasn't it Jimmy Carter that said we were switching over to metric. Yes Jimmy Carter pushed it a bit but the law was signed in 1975 under Bush SR. The unions did not like the idea because it would make it easier to ship jobs overseas. I do not think the USA is in a hurry to switch to metric. According to Google Andrew Johnson signed a metric act in 1866 😃 (68F I can get the conversion from the computer)
Need an install video and demo on the tractor with box blade and\or brush hog.
Great video - THANK YOU! I purchased a hydraulic top link for my 2025R but when I was searching, all of the options I found were either 16 1/8" retracted or way too long, so I bought one 16 1/8". I use a box blade for snow and I sometimes like to use it backing up to remove ice from the driveway. The extended length of 22 7/16" is too short to get the rear blade engaged well. AgriStoreUSA has one that is 18 1/8 retracted which is perfect for my application. Thanks again!
Thanks for another great video, I just ordered through your link.
Thanks!
I really like my hydraulic top link, it makes attaching implements easier, and really handy with the box blade.
Permatex thread sealer is what I prefer to use. If you have a drain plug that keeps weeping clean the threads first put some on the threads and the leak is gone.
That is cool! I never thought of a hydraulic top link.
We had a hydraulic top link put on our 3560 Grand L. I don't think the dealer made any adjustments and it wasn't a Kubota OEM. I think the LX is a one off on engineering. I wish I had known about this top link because ours does have some sag and needs to be adjusted while working. However, that is easy to by just pushing a lever. They are great to make adjustments on the fly and to keep in working 💪
Thanks for another great video and I’ll see ya on the next one. Take care and God bless! Go Heels!
Very informative. We are looking for a solution for a large MF4707 (cat 2). Seems as if the Massey guys on the internet are using this unit now as well.
Kubota dealers can offer a top/ tilt hydraulic combo kit. It’s sold through whole goods (Sales), not Parts Department.
Hi Tim, Great video as always. I would have liked to see it actually working on your tractor.
Yea. I’ll get it setup sometime. I had so much to say that I had to stop with this episode. Sorry.
The agristore links look to be the way to go. I need the whole setup. Added to my Chinesium chunker. Front and rear remotes. What would be your recommendation? Other than buying a new tractor that already has them installed. I wish I could lol
I enjoy your channel Tim, keep up the great work.
Which model are you using for the 1025R, Agristore doesn't list a cylinder, looks like the 06003 is the one. Thanks
Why cant you order a kubota ball joint on the link
I hope they are good mousers, if you need that.
I gave you a shout out on my latest video installing the link . Thanks again.
Another great video! Very informative. A hydraulic top link is on my wishlist for my 1025r for sure.
I have one of the cat2 cylinders from Agristoreusa and had to grind down the edges of the lower ball to get it to fit into my 5055e.
Which top link do you recommend for 3033r, I assume it will be the same as your 3r.
Yes, the 18-26” cat 1 is great!
Thank you Tim! Very informative. Cool cats!
My 3039R John Deere Tractor has three places to attach the top link to the tractor. I currently always use the center point. What are the other connections used for?
When ordering the hose kit for my 4044M, do I need valve type or ball type couplers?
I have to agree with everyone that adding a hydraulic top link (and the summit 4 spool 6 port rear hydraulic/front 2 port 3rd function kit) was an awesome addition to our 1025R.
One minor issue I've been having though is that all 6 of the ½" hydraulic couplers keep loosening off and spewing out hydraulic fluid through the o-ring connection.
Are you also experiencing this with your Summit hydraulic kit?
I have admittedly been working my hydraulics very hard, lifting enormous pieces of wood, huge stumps, huge rocks, plug using the backhoe to remove about 30 stumps so far (some so heavy I can't lift them more than 1" with 2200psi and my front grapple).
What I find is every ~50 hours of hard use and about 15 to 20 hot/cold cycles all 6 of the rear ½" couplers are loose and randomly will start to leak. The last time (yesterday) I was working the backhoe and got showered with uncomfortably hot hydraulic fluid all over my right arm.
Tightening them back up resolves the issue until they eventually loosen again.
When removing stumps I'm probably working the bypass valve 25% of the time so the hydraulics heat up to the point it is uncomfortable to touch the hydraulic cylinders and the transaxle.
So far since July I've put about 180 hours on the summit kit& the 1025R and 3 times I've had to tighten all 6 of the couplers again (and I tighten them quite tight, each time a bit tighter too).
I'm wondering if I should clean them with brake cleaner and try loctite next time. Thoughts?
Interesting. I think I have had one come loose.
Great informative video Tim. thank you
Thanks for this, I've been looking for someone to cover top links with a check valve. I've put off the purchase of one for my 2022 1025R until I could learn more.
I hope this helped!
Great video... I learned something!!! And I think you are 100% right....
I will be a new tractor owner, I plan to buy the Kubota L2502. I see Kubota has the top & tilt option, but can I just get the hydraulic top link installed from the dealer/factory or do they require the top and sides?
Does the dual pilot check valve render the float function on the top link ineffective/non-operational?
Correct. There is no float with these valves anyway.
If you're using telfon tape. You have to use the other yellow tape. The yellow is made for hydraulic stuff.
The valve mounted on the cylinder isn't just a check valve. That valve is actually called a counter balance valve. What it does is block the ports from return till there is pressure applied to the opposite port.
It is a dual piloted check valve.
Great info!
Very informative. Thanks.
Excellent video .
Hi Tim. I need your advice. I love your videos and have been a subscriber for years. We are redoing our yard, which is a new construction. The soil was terrible, and the builder reused the soil that was here and never brought in good soil. The grass is terrible and the yard consists of mostly just weeds and crabgrass. I am having a bunch of Phil brought in to fix some of the grading issues and also topsoil. From my understanding, the entire yard should be tilled up even in the areas that we add Phil? Certainly in the areas that don’t need fill and then add topsoil to the tilled ground. Would you also then till the topsoil with the existing soil and mix it together, but not do that where the fill is added underneath the topsoil? Your advice would be greatly appreciated!
You will likely be disappointed with the fill.
I’m not sure in your specific situation. Probably till everything.
They sell 2 hose kits on agristore one with ball and one with valve connectors.. can you clarify which we need? I have a 1025r. I think the valve style is what we need. My tractor is at a friends house right now and I cant check.
Yes, valve works great!
Thanks-great information
Hey Tim, any idea if one of these would work on my New Holland Workmaster 25s?
Yes, it should.
I looked on the agristore and picked out a Cat I top link. Now, about the hose kits. They have several options and I don't know if I have a valve coupler or ball type and if my TYM 2515h has 1/4, or 1/2" fittings.
Anyway to figure this out without the tractor being in front of me?
I am 100's of miles away from my tractor at this time and won't be near it for several months
Choose ‘valve’.
It will have 1/2” fittings on the rear outlets.
Which did you use for your 1025r top link. I have a 2025r and need to have a top link I think it is 18 inches
18-26 from AgriStoreUSA.com use code ttwt for 5% off
Another very enlightening video Tim, Thanks!
Speaking of Hydraulics, haven't seen backhoe or excavator videos for a while.... or maybe I just missed them.
I came across the Engcon brand today in researching mini & electric excavators. Have you had a look at what they offer?
Maybe one of their products might be able to increase the versatility of backhoes? Look forward too hearing what you think after checking them out. Maybe the EC02 tiltrotator & EC204 tiltrotators for example.
God bless!
Would not a tractor with hydraulic downforce kit have an extended length top Center Draft Link?
Tim, do you see use for a pneumatic downforce kit for small tractors? I am thinking about making one.
No. I do not.
Not sure if you still read these comments. I have watched this video twice but still am not sure what to order for my Deere 2038R with factory rear connections. I want a top link mainly for box-blade use but also other uses. Went to agristoreusa and saw the cylinder for my model there but not sure if that's the one you recommended here. Also, I have no idea what hoses to purchase. I sure could use some help with exactly what I need to order for my tractor. Might consider a tilt cylinder later, but thought I'd start with the top cylinder firs. Thanks.
Get the 18-26” version for cat1. Get ‘poppet’ hoses.
LOL...My couplers are dirty too! 🤣
just in time for this info 😀😀😀😀 just started looking for a hydraulic toplink
what length toplink from agristore did you put on the 1025r?
18” or so at shortest.
@@TractorTimewithTim thank you😀
I'm curious if you have used that hydraulic top link with check valve on a floatable detent remote? Will that check valve lock it up and not allow it to float?
Will not work in float.
@@TractorTimewithTim Can you clarify if the check valve won't work if it is in float mode, or will float not work if you have the check valve? Thanks.
@@Sparky-fy1zs float won’t work with check valve.
Great video. I need help finding the correct hydraulic top link for a New Holland 545D Industrial tractor I recently purchased and it had no top link on it when I purchased it. I know it has Cat II 3 point arms but that's all. I can't seem to find any top link on New Holland online parts lookup so I wanted to see if you might know. Thanks
They are pretty standard. You could get a cheap top link at tractor supply to test for length. …then order the appropriate hydraulic link from AgriStoreUSA.com use code TTWT for 5% off.
@@TractorTimewithTim, thanks. I haven’t been able to find any real info on it.
Great video
Hi Tim: Great video. Very helpful. I just received my 06003 top link cylinder from AgristoreUSA. Unfortunately, the two cylinder endcaps are 90 degrees offset to each other rather than inline. I need them to be inline for my Kubota LX2610. Can I rotate the cylinder endcap by 90 degrees? If so, do you know how? Or, do I have to cut off one of the endcaps and reweld it to be inline with the other one?
Yes , you can rotate the ram end.
Use a drift punch, socket breaker bar, etc to stick through the hole. That will give you enough leverage to turn it.
@@TractorTimewithTim thx
Good Day Tim. I went with the top cylinder from AgriStore and it fits and works perfectly well on my 1025R. I am wondering about the tilt option though. Looked at the FitRite option but right now they are looking at 36 weeks to produce. I have searched most if not all of the sources you have used but noticing comes up as an option. Likely there is another option out there but not sure where to look or who to reach out too. Trusting you knowledge and opinion, I am asking here. Thanks for your well done and informative videos.
I’m trying. Do not yet have a partner on this. I’m hoping for one soon! Sorry.
Great video Tim! Do you know if the factory rear remotes on my 2038R are valve type, or ball type couplers? I want to order the top link from Agristore and don’t know witch hose kit to order.
Either will work. I choose valve.
Looks like Kubota and Massey Ferguson use the same toplink?
What's the best top link for a Kubota l4701
Measure your existing top link, retracted.
Get the AgriStoreUSA.com link which is a bit shorter. I suspect it will be the 18”-26” version. Use code ttwt for 5% discount.
Just missing a reference for the 3e? I'd think it would be similar to the 2 or 3R?
2R is essentially identical to 3e.
What model toplink is that from agristore? I don't see the 1025r listed.
I recommend the cat 1 18 1/4” minimum length for the 1025r.
Tim,
First off that in your for all of your informative videos.
I recently purchased a 1965 ford 4000. The top link was missing upon purchase. I have rear remotes and was really hoping to have a hydraulic top link installed.
Can you recommend one for me?
Thank you
The only question would be the length required. Here is what Steiner tractor parts lists as a compatible top link. www.steinertractor.com/FDS023-Top-Link-Category-1 Note that they say 16" tube which would mean about 20 inches between pins when fully retracted.
I like the retracted length of the hydraulic version to be shorter than the standard...to increase flexibility. So, I would choose either the 18 1/8" or 19 1/2" Category 1 links from
agristoreUSA.com use code TTWT for 5% off.
I suspect you would be happy with either one.