Excellent tutorial. Waiting for brake parts for my E39 but will go the extra mile and change all 6 flexible brake line, including the 2 from the ABS unit and rebuild the calipers.
I watched them all. This is the best "How to change pads and rotor" vid. I never done it before but I know I can change my own brakes and pads -no problemo
I have an E39 2002 model 530 diesel automatic car with the M57 engine (CA980-40). I changed the front suspension shock absorbers with MEYLE, engine mounts with BMW Genuine, control arms MEYLE again. I had the oil change 3.000 miles ago and also did the transmission fluid change at 60K. The car is currently at 65K miles. I am the 2nd owner of the car. Overall it is a great car but I think I have some problems with it. An old guy used to own the car. He died, and I bought the car from his sons. I have no information regarding the service history of the car and how it has been used. But all the mechanics I have taken it to have said that it has been taken care of and there are no leaks and so on. I have been having a wobbly/ like a fud noise coming from the front of the car, under my legs where the gas pedal is. Or maybe the wobbly noise is coming from the transmission but I feel that it is coming from the engine compartment. This noise takes place when the transmission shifts gears from 1 to 2 and vice versa. The acceleration is fine. The engine sounds smooth and there are no problems with it. But there is a big “once jump”, “a noticeable wobble sound” when the car shifts from 1 to 2 or from 2 to 1 speed. This is especially more noticeable when the car has not reached its operating temperature. After 10 minutes of driving, some (most part) of this noise disappears. This vibration has gotten worse, not by much, but it has. My main problem is I feel vibration under my feet where the gas pedal is - when I touch it, it gives me that feeling. I feel it more when I push it and let it go. I had a mechanic check. He says that it is not the transmission problem or its mounts but rather the rear axle. He drove it and also checked it and showed it to me. There is a little play at the long shaft that is connected to the transmission. It is not the part that connects to the transmission directly (where the guibo is) but rather at the back place where the transaxle is. If that is the case I really do not know what do since it costs around 1000 euros of BMW genuine. I have seen a video related to rear axles and the guy says these usually wear out after 100K or even at 200K miles. I really couldn't understand why mine went at 65K miles. Again, if that is the problem. The mechanic is sure that is the problem. He says that if it had been the transmission mounts, the car would vibrate a lot even at stand still, I am not sure if that's correct.
+Turhan Uludağ hey Turhan, thanks for sharing your story here. If your wheels have been checked and they are 100% straight along with wheel balancing, and your suspension components are also refreshed, then yes I have heard about problems with the axles/driveshaft causing vibration issues. In fact, my 530i currently has a vibration I have yet to pinpoint which I feel in the seat of the car and from the rear end. Keep me updated how you make out with resolving the problem! Also, see if anywhere in your area can rebuild your current parts, instead of a very expensive new one at BMW.
FYI: it is EXTREMELY easy to rebuild a caliper with a new piston (should you need it) and the rubber dust boot, internal square o-Ring, rubber guide pin boots too. the repair kits cost about $7.00 USD per corner (Centric or ATE) as opposed to rebuilt caliper (tho those look much nicer, unless you spent a LOT of time grinding dirt/rust off) . ALSO the 80 foot pounds sounds incorrect to me, unless its different between the 3.0 and 4.4i/4.8iS @ 100 foot pounds of torque... Great video tho, as usual
Another excellent video. Really enjoy these DIY vids! Saved me a ton of money wrenching myself. Would you recommend replacing the rotors at 90k? I bought BOSCH pads for replacements.. Thoughts?
Hey Brock, thanks! Yeah if the rotors are original with that kind of mileage I would recommend replacing them. If you're lucky you can typically get 2 sets of pads out of one set of OEM or comparable quality brake rotor.
You did not have to open the brake fluid reservoir? I did not see that part of the video. Isn't when push the piston back onto the caliper... brake fluid rises up in the reservoir?
question pls... i wanna order new brakes for mye39 98 528i .. is it all same size or do i have to inspect mine before??? and rubber caliber bushings and anti rattle clips are standard or not???
are these cars daily driven? ive never seen a pad so flat, i just did a full brake system overhaul on my nissan too, very different from bmw, because my bmws have floating calipers just like urs
If I remove the 2 17mm bolts holding the caliper bracket first can I take out the whole caliper assembly? I stripped the caliper guide Bolts and I can't remove them
Hi Jose, yeah you can do that if you can fit a socket back there on both bolts. Then I assume you'll get a new caliper and carrier from a remanufactured part. I don't recall if the socket fits back there without the caliper removed first, it is different on each car. Good luck!
Hi, yes it's edited to make it watchable. I can do the brake job in about 30 min per side, but one could spend up to an hour or so per side if they have less experience doing brakes. It all depends on your experience level.
BIMMER ZEIT It took me 3 hours yesterday just for one not because it was difficult per say but because of the damn rotor being stuck haha if it wasn’t for that it would’ve been an hour job, today I’ll be doing the other side so it should go a little easier since I know the tricks. No problem!
Unfortunately rust and corrosion from road salt in places that get snow makes repairs much harder. Don't be afraid to pound that old rotor (if you're replacing it) with a sledge hammer or 5lb hammer to get it off. Be sure to wear ear and eye protection. It also helps to spray around the hub with WD40 or something to help free it up.
J Equity Group when you are doing brake pads and rotors no, you do not, since you’re not opening up the brake system. It is a good idea though to change out the old brake fluid at a regular interval (every 2 years at least) which would involve opening the bleeder at each corner to flush the calipers and lines.
BIMMER ZEIT Thanks. Seeing as how i know next to nothing about cars, buying a bmw as a first car probably wasn’t the best thing to do. But hey ʅ（◞‿◟）ʃ i want to learn
Les James Do it yourself bud.. I just got 4 rotors, pads and sensors for $170 on eBay, I’ll be doing all the labor. We’re men, we handle stuff ourselves.
![How to change front brake discs / front brake rotors on BMW 520i (E39) [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IWRqmixeoMU/mqdefault.jpg)
BRAKE PARTS: amzn.to/1Rh28O5
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Excellent tutorial. Waiting for brake parts for my E39 but will go the extra mile and change all 6 flexible brake line, including the 2 from the ABS unit and rebuild the calipers.
I watched them all. This is the best "How to change pads and rotor" vid. I never done it before but I know I can change my own brakes and pads -no problemo
Faybrian Hernandez Faybrian, I appreciate you. Be well!
Great video. Easy to follow and not too long or chatty.
RIch D thanks Rich, I appreciate it!
Great easy to understand video. Changing my 2000 BMW X5 Tomorrow.
I have an E39 2002 model 530 diesel automatic car with the M57 engine (CA980-40). I changed the front suspension shock absorbers with MEYLE, engine mounts with BMW Genuine, control arms MEYLE again.
I had the oil change 3.000 miles ago and also did the transmission fluid change at 60K. The car is currently at 65K miles. I am the 2nd owner of the car. Overall it is a great car but I think I have some problems with it. An old guy used to own the car. He died, and I bought the car from his sons. I have no information regarding the service history of the car and how it has been used. But all the mechanics I have taken it to have said that it has been taken care of and there are no leaks and so on.
I have been having a wobbly/ like a fud noise coming from the front of the car, under my legs where the gas pedal is. Or maybe the wobbly noise is coming from the transmission but I feel that it is coming from the engine compartment. This noise takes place when the transmission shifts gears from 1 to 2 and vice versa. The acceleration is fine. The engine sounds smooth and there are no problems with it. But there is a big “once jump”, “a noticeable wobble sound” when the car shifts from 1 to 2 or from 2 to 1 speed. This is especially more noticeable when the car has not reached its operating temperature. After 10 minutes of driving, some (most part) of this noise disappears.
This vibration has gotten worse, not by much, but it has. My main problem is I feel vibration under my feet where the gas pedal is - when I touch it, it gives me that feeling. I feel it more when I push it and let it go.
I had a mechanic check. He says that it is not the transmission problem or its mounts but rather the rear axle. He drove it and also checked it and showed it to me. There is a little play at the long shaft that is connected to the transmission. It is not the part that connects to the transmission directly (where the guibo is) but rather at the back place where the transaxle is. If that is the case I really do not know what do since it costs around 1000 euros of BMW genuine. I have seen a video related to rear axles and the guy says these usually wear out after 100K or even at 200K miles. I really couldn't understand why mine went at 65K miles. Again, if that is the problem. The mechanic is sure that is the problem. He says that if it had been the transmission mounts, the car would vibrate a lot even at stand still, I am not sure if that's correct.
+Turhan Uludağ hey Turhan, thanks for sharing your story here. If your wheels have been checked and they are 100% straight along with wheel balancing, and your suspension components are also refreshed, then yes I have heard about problems with the axles/driveshaft causing vibration issues. In fact, my 530i currently has a vibration I have yet to pinpoint which I feel in the seat of the car and from the rear end. Keep me updated how you make out with resolving the problem! Also, see if anywhere in your area can rebuild your current parts, instead of a very expensive new one at BMW.
Great, simple and detailed video. I am planning to change my all 4 rotors and break pads for e38 740il. Great Job
Best video for doing this job yourself.
FYI: it is EXTREMELY easy to rebuild a caliper with a new piston (should you need it) and the rubber dust boot, internal square o-Ring, rubber guide pin boots too. the repair kits cost about $7.00 USD per corner (Centric or ATE) as opposed to rebuilt caliper (tho those look much nicer, unless you spent a LOT of time grinding dirt/rust off) . ALSO the 80 foot pounds sounds incorrect to me, unless its different between the 3.0 and 4.4i/4.8iS @ 100 foot pounds of torque... Great video tho, as usual
My $900 E39 530i project car gets new brakes: ruclips.net/video/2T6qtzE_y2Q/видео.html
No Bloody, no grease on the caliper slides, as it collects dust and freezes, use anti seize compound instead.
GREAT JOB as always! 😎🇺🇸
Another excellent video. Really enjoy these DIY vids! Saved me a ton of money wrenching myself. Would you recommend replacing the rotors at 90k? I bought BOSCH pads for replacements.. Thoughts?
Hey Brock, thanks! Yeah if the rotors are original with that kind of mileage I would recommend replacing them. If you're lucky you can typically get 2 sets of pads out of one set of OEM or comparable quality brake rotor.
You did not have to open the brake fluid reservoir? I did not see that part of the video. Isn't when push the piston back onto the caliper... brake fluid rises up in the reservoir?
question pls... i wanna order new brakes for mye39 98 528i .. is it all same size or do i have to inspect mine before??? and rubber caliber bushings and anti rattle clips are standard or not???
No grease on the caliper slides???
Great video and outstanding detail. Easily understood.
Thanks Mike!
Good easy to follow video, thanks
You forgot to use anti seize paste on the hub and pad carrier.
are these cars daily driven? ive never seen a pad so flat, i just did a full brake system overhaul on my nissan too, very different from bmw, because my bmws have floating calipers just like urs
+Rahee's Garage Yes these are daily driven!
What jack point did you use? Thanks
Great work on the video and I got to say well done on the editing too ;)
If I remove the 2 17mm bolts holding the caliper bracket first can I take out the whole caliper assembly?
I stripped the caliper guide Bolts and I can't remove them
Hi Jose, yeah you can do that if you can fit a socket back there on both bolts. Then I assume you'll get a new caliper and carrier from a remanufactured part. I don't recall if the socket fits back there without the caliper removed first, it is different on each car. Good luck!
It would have been more simple if you left the old pad in to compress the piston, And also apply a bit of grease would help,
Excellent video. Thanks
thanks.... great and thumbs up
I’m sure you edited some things out, to make it short. I was curious how long did it actually take you to do this job? Give and take
Great video by the way and gave you a thumbs up!
Hi, yes it's edited to make it watchable. I can do the brake job in about 30 min per side, but one could spend up to an hour or so per side if they have less experience doing brakes. It all depends on your experience level.
Thank you I appreciate it!
BIMMER ZEIT It took me 3 hours yesterday just for one not because it was difficult per say but because of the damn rotor being stuck haha if it wasn’t for that it would’ve been an hour job, today I’ll be doing the other side so it should go a little easier since I know the tricks. No problem!
Unfortunately rust and corrosion from road salt in places that get snow makes repairs much harder. Don't be afraid to pound that old rotor (if you're replacing it) with a sledge hammer or 5lb hammer to get it off. Be sure to wear ear and eye protection. It also helps to spray around the hub with WD40 or something to help free it up.
Do you have to bleed air from the brake line?
J Equity Group when you are doing brake pads and rotors no, you do not, since you’re not opening up the brake system. It is a good idea though to change out the old brake fluid at a regular interval (every 2 years at least) which would involve opening the bleeder at each corner to flush the calipers and lines.
@@BIMMERZEITT thanks !
Hi, Is this process the same for all for tires?
For the E34, E36, E39, E46, E53 yes they are all quite similar in design.
BIMMER ZEIT Thanks. Seeing as how i know next to nothing about cars, buying a bmw as a first car probably wasn’t the best thing to do. But hey ʅ（◞‿◟）ʃ i want to learn
Excellent job very good video
Thanks guys
I just got Estimate today for new pads and Rotors on my 2002 BMW x5 $1600.00 for front and back..... what a hell
Les James Do it yourself bud.. I just got 4 rotors, pads and sensors for $170 on eBay, I’ll be doing all the labor. We’re men, we handle stuff ourselves.
DIY it James. Even if it takes you all day, better than paying $1600!
ebay and its really as easy as the video looks
excellent video !! ty
good video man
dude I love you so much
can e39 rear brake pads work on e53?
anthonyk possibly yes I think so. Check realoem.com punch in the part number it will show all applications for the pads
Brake pad wear sensor should be installed on the pad before the pad is installed on the caliper.
+Upallnight True, it is recommended to install the sensor in the pad first! But still pretty easy to snap it in place after the fact.
Did you just sprayed petroleum based lubricant into the piston seals
awesome!!
Thank you. Great video