Several times when I left a 2 to 4" studio in concrete the animals I stall in equipment slid heavy load across the PVC conduit breaking it off requiring time to chip out concrete inside of a tight space and pain in the butt to trim broken PVC to glue on a cooupling.
My city here in Utah uses PEX for incoming water lines. When I replaced the old galvanized pipes in this 80 yo house, I installed all copper. When the city side galvanized water pipe finally died, PEX was installed. I still ran a grounding conductor to the internal water pipes
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I call our house "My Old House". It has been fun upgrading so much of the place over the past 28 years. Very intimate with it now. It is my hobby now
I try to upload when I can. My wife was hospitalized over the holiday weekend and it set me back a little bet. She’s healthy now but it was stressful 5-6 days.
At 12:16 you mention you don't have to land the neutral on the GFCI breaker. Did you land on the neutral bar? Why would the GFCI breaker have a silver neutral terminal on it? And the GFCI neutral pigtail gets uncoiled and trimmed to proper length and landed on the panel neutral bar as you mentioned. With QO plug-on neutral breakers, there is no coiled pigtail of course, but I would land the neutral on the breaker. Greetings from Belmar. Thanks for your content.
Hey Ron nice video. Just curious, would that pad for the hot tub have a ground wire back tot he disconnect panel to bond the wire mesh or rebar to keep everything at the same potential?
The homeowner who's a friend of mine was aware of the situation and said he will address the siding at his convenience. I offered to put a large piece of Azek behind all of it but he declined.
As a layman, I'll do a lot of electrical work myself (don't worry, I'm a licensed engineer, my dad was a sparky, and I live in the county where I don't have to pull permits every time). But when it's something particularly hot/dirty/complicated I call an electrician. Every time I get the bill at the end and it's higher than I think it should be, then I say "well it was difficult enough that it was worth calling an expert. How much is my time and sanity worth? I don't have all the specialty tools to do this." And then I pay the bill because it's better than doing it myself. Worth every penny.
That existing deck that is closer than 5 ft - does it require equipotential bonding? Also the concrete pad under the hot tub - does it have a bonding wire? Sorry if I missed it, but I didn't see 8 awg solid copper anywhere. Thank you
Hi Ron, what would you do if a hot tub were to be placed on existing concrete? Bonding? Grounding? Not sure it's possible to do an equopotential bonding loop at this point without breaking up the old concrete. thanks!
then how do you ground the rebar? or don't you? what about equopotential bonding? there is only about 10 inches all around the hot tub of exposed concrete. it's about 12" from the edge of my deck also. TIA@@electricianron_New_Jersey
Hey Ron, I'm a young electrician in south Jersey, love watching your videos and seeing someone who knows what they're doing. Maybe you've shown it in another video, but what do you typically use to heat your PVC for bending? Your bends look really good. I was thinking of buying one of those greenlee blankets, but theyre expensive, and wanted some other opinions before I pull the trigger.
Glad you enjoy the videos and I hope you are learning a thing or two. I use a Greenlee 2” heater and it cost $400 in 2014. The blanket works well but takes longer. You could also use a charcoal grill because the heat would most definitely warm the PVC. I did that once working at a friends house up on Cape Cod.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I have the same heater on my truck and I am finally starting to get really good at bending offsets and 90's with it. It is such a useful tool for a resi electrician and it sure ebats having to run out and grab a pre fab
Thanks guys. Right now I work for an electrical contractor, and while the hot box seems great, I don't think I'll buy one to keep on my truck. But I might buy one and put it in my basement at home for the meantime lol
Well the 2-hole PVC straps are what you're supposed to be using on PVC. I do use heavy wall 1-hole straps but being that this house is close to the salt water the HW strap would rust in short order.
I'm not overly concerned about it. As I tightened up the locknut on either side I squeezed some silicone in there to make it water tight. I will however check it before all of the work is done over there.
A lazier and faster install would be to just run carflex the whole way back to the panel under that porch/deck, but you did all those PVC bends for a much more durable raceway. Can you only use carflex a maximum length by code? I agree those terminals on the control board look flimsy when you consider the tub heater and jets draw such high current. Hopefully those springs are good and tight or there could be arcing. And that connection needs to stay tight through the year-around outdoor seasons. Seems normal screw terminals would be cheaper and safer. Man it looks like there's some money over there in Oceanport. You're lucky to have great clients.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey Oh yeah those Wago lever nuts are amazing. Keeps the conductors nice and clean if you need to add/remove conductors to a splice
@@electricianron_New_Jersey Mostly vicariously... it's an avocation. I'm a landlord and do DIY electrical work on my property. I love the trade, and probably should have been if I could rewind my life. I'm a stickler for doing the work perfectly and making it as good as a pro did it. I help a lot of people on forums figure out circuits.
Wouldent inspectors call you out 5 current carrying conductors on that pipe for the tub? (adjustment factor [no more that 3 current carring conductors?])
No, because five conductors in the same raceway is not a violation. Derating is something else entirely. All THWN/ THHN conductors have different ampacity ratings and the 90º column of Table 310.16 is used when derating conductors.
nice little job and well documented. This is a good example of how PVC can be easier and better than EMT. Did you end up using a PVC heater bender under the deck?????
In shore town Stratmere NJ ( just south of Ocean City ) the water meters are on !awn maybe 12" below the ground. My buddies house water meter would have have an inch if water on it spat high tide. He is third house off the beach .We are not allowed to use aluminum for ground ding any services. Nothing beats copper for a reliable longest lasting most reliable ground conductor.
I edit and upload when I can. I'm trying to get ahead of the curve and have a few videos "in the tank" and on a schedule for release but I haven't got there yet.
I like that you label stuff. So annoying when people don’t
We core thru bottom of tub snd concrete, makes for a slick install . Out of sight out of mind. Keep up great work!
That wasn't feasible here.
This work isn’t easy, but if your willing to do it, the rewards are fantastic.
Love the videos. Quality work. If I was home owner, I would have had the conduit ran under and up the slab before it was poured
Several times when I left a 2 to 4" studio in concrete the animals I stall in equipment slid heavy load across the PVC conduit breaking it off requiring time to chip out concrete inside of a tight space and pain in the butt to trim broken PVC to glue on a cooupling.
true didn’t think of area with frost, I recently moved back to the north
Nice job. Great workmanship. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
My city here in Utah uses PEX for incoming water lines. When I replaced the old galvanized pipes in this 80 yo house, I installed all copper. When the city side galvanized water pipe finally died, PEX was installed. I still ran a grounding conductor to the internal water pipes
This house was built in 1920.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I call our house "My Old House". It has been fun upgrading so much of the place over the past 28 years. Very intimate with it now. It is my hobby now
Good looking work Ron!
Always hard work pay off.
Great job.
Thanks.
I was JUST wondering when there would be a new upload🎉
I try to upload when I can. My wife was hospitalized over the holiday weekend and it set me back a little bet. She’s healthy now but it was stressful 5-6 days.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey glad she’s doing well Ron. Keep up the good work⚡️⚡️
@@FrontRowOrBust thanks FROB!
At 12:16 you mention you don't have to land the neutral on the GFCI breaker. Did you land on the neutral bar? Why would the GFCI breaker have a silver neutral terminal on it? And the GFCI neutral pigtail gets uncoiled and trimmed to proper length and landed on the panel neutral bar as you mentioned. With QO plug-on neutral breakers, there is no coiled pigtail of course, but I would land the neutral on the breaker. Greetings from Belmar. Thanks for your content.
Hey Ron nice video. Just curious, would that pad for the hot tub have a ground wire back tot he disconnect panel to bond the wire mesh or rebar to keep everything at the same potential?
There's no Ufer ground here and I agree, there should be one because the tub is a separate structure.
Why did you use a 60A breaker to supply the hot tub panel containing 2 breakers totaling 50A?
Cus I felt like it
@@electricianron_New_Jersey sweet!
Great video Sir watching from the U.K.
Glad you enjoy them!
Nice work.
I would be a little concerned that there is no siding behind/around the transfer switch and the weather protection is exposed.
The homeowner who's a friend of mine was aware of the situation and said he will address the siding at his convenience. I offered to put a large piece of Azek behind all of it but he declined.
@11:05 what is your torque settings for those spring terminals? SMH on a 30A circuit!
Love your work
Thank you!
Hot spring and Caldera are the only hot tubs using this 20A/30A breaker and 6 wire run.
As a layman, I'll do a lot of electrical work myself (don't worry, I'm a licensed engineer, my dad was a sparky, and I live in the county where I don't have to pull permits every time). But when it's something particularly hot/dirty/complicated I call an electrician. Every time I get the bill at the end and it's higher than I think it should be, then I say "well it was difficult enough that it was worth calling an expert. How much is my time and sanity worth? I don't have all the specialty tools to do this." And then I pay the bill because it's better than doing it myself. Worth every penny.
That existing deck that is closer than 5 ft - does it require equipotential bonding? Also the concrete pad under the hot tub - does it have a bonding wire? Sorry if I missed it, but I didn't see 8 awg solid copper anywhere. Thank you
Hi Ron, what would you do if a hot tub were to be placed on existing concrete? Bonding? Grounding? Not sure it's possible to do an equopotential bonding loop at this point without breaking up the old concrete. thanks!
If it’s an existing concrete slab the code specifically states that you do not have to break up the concrete to get to the rebar for grounding.
then how do you ground the rebar? or don't you? what about equopotential bonding? there is only about 10 inches all around the hot tub of exposed concrete. it's about 12" from the edge of my deck also. TIA@@electricianron_New_Jersey
Hey Ron, I'm a young electrician in south Jersey, love watching your videos and seeing someone who knows what they're doing. Maybe you've shown it in another video, but what do you typically use to heat your PVC for bending? Your bends look really good. I was thinking of buying one of those greenlee blankets, but theyre expensive, and wanted some other opinions before I pull the trigger.
Glad you enjoy the videos and I hope you are learning a thing or two. I use a Greenlee 2” heater and it cost $400 in 2014. The blanket works well but takes longer. You could also use a charcoal grill because the heat would most definitely warm the PVC. I did that once working at a friends house up on Cape Cod.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I have the same heater on my truck and I am finally starting to get really good at bending offsets and 90's with it. It is such a useful tool for a resi electrician and it sure ebats having to run out and grab a pre fab
Thanks guys. Right now I work for an electrical contractor, and while the hot box seems great, I don't think I'll buy one to keep on my truck. But I might buy one and put it in my basement at home for the meantime lol
@@electricianron_New_Jersey ...ya do whattcha gotta do...lol
Opinions on using 2 hole plastic straps on pvc vs using 1 hole rigid straps on pvc?
Well the 2-hole PVC straps are what you're supposed to be using on PVC. I do use heavy wall 1-hole straps but being that this house is close to the salt water the HW strap would rust in short order.
Do you need schedule 80 pvc for exterior runs?
You’re the man! Keep it up!
Hi Ron, thanks for all the content. Would you want to use a rain tight hub on the ATS since you're in the upper part of the enclosure.
I'm not overly concerned about it. As I tightened up the locknut on either side I squeezed some silicone in there to make it water tight. I will however check it before all of the work is done over there.
I was thinkin the same thing. U read my mind
A lazier and faster install would be to just run carflex the whole way back to the panel under that porch/deck, but you did all those PVC bends for a much more durable raceway. Can you only use carflex a maximum length by code?
I agree those terminals on the control board look flimsy when you consider the tub heater and jets draw such high current. Hopefully those springs are good and tight or there could be arcing. And that connection needs to stay tight through the year-around outdoor seasons. Seems normal screw terminals would be cheaper and safer.
Man it looks like there's some money over there in Oceanport. You're lucky to have great clients.
I prefer terminals all day long but I am a fan of using Wago's where necessary.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey Oh yeah those Wago lever nuts are amazing. Keeps the conductors nice and clean if you need to add/remove conductors to a splice
@@aaron74 Aaron, are u an electrician too?
@@electricianron_New_Jersey Mostly vicariously... it's an avocation. I'm a landlord and do DIY electrical work on my property. I love the trade, and probably should have been if I could rewind my life. I'm a stickler for doing the work perfectly and making it as good as a pro did it. I help a lot of people on forums figure out circuits.
Super cool Ron, thx brother...😃😉😎
Hey Ron loved the video but what kind of spa uses only 20amp and 30 Amp breakers
Before spas used to use 50-60 amp circuits. Now it’s just broken outside of the unit.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey ok. Didn't know that. I wired my own spa and had to use 6 Guage wire for 50 amp
Great work. what kind of side pliers do you use.
7” Klein hybrid.
What's your tolerance on determining what AWG size you use +/- 5 amp or more. How far would you bring an aluminium conductor into a building?
Conductors are sized for the loads they serve Circuit breakers are sized to protect the conductors, not the equipment.
Great job! How much do most electricians charge for a project like that, ballpark?
$2000-$2500
Great Video. Thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching.
how do you make the offsets for the pvc
What did you charge? How much profit did you make?
Why do you need to know that?
@@electricianron_New_Jersey right? Whats this guys deal? Hes probably a homeowner trying to chizle down his electrician. Typical miser.
Wouldent inspectors call you out 5 current carrying conductors on that pipe for the tub? (adjustment factor [no more that 3 current carring conductors?])
No, because five conductors in the same raceway is not a violation. Derating is something else entirely. All THWN/ THHN conductors have different ampacity ratings and the 90º column of Table 310.16 is used when derating conductors.
I love the hammer mileaukee m12
nice little job and well documented. This is a good example of how PVC can be easier and better than EMT. Did you end up using a PVC heater bender under the deck?????
I used the PVC bender outside of the deck
In shore town Stratmere NJ ( just south of Ocean City ) the water meters are on !awn maybe 12" below the ground. My buddies house water meter would have have an inch if water on it spat high tide. He is third house off the beach .We are not allowed to use aluminum for ground ding any services. Nothing beats copper for a reliable longest lasting most reliable ground conductor.
I haven't even seen where the water meter is on this property but I can find out.
Other good one Ron. 👍
why doesn't the meter have a seal
Because I broke it to do work.
Never seen one like that . Usually they take a 50 amp or 60 amp circuit
The new ones seem to be different. Not sure for the reason for the change.
Why do new episodes come just as I am going to bed? Lol.
I edit and upload when I can. I'm trying to get ahead of the curve and have a few videos "in the tank" and on a schedule for release but I haven't got there yet.
Would you ever consider filming in 4K?
I record in 5k on a Go Pro!
Al and brass will be a problem.
6:00 every tool has a hammer side
Absolutely.
👏
Dirty Hands, Clean Money
Hell yes brother!!!
ok
Hey I love your work, would love to shadow you one day. Lunch on me 🥪
No lol