4WD REAR BAR CHOOSE WISELY or WASTE MONEY
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- Опубликовано: 12 май 2023
- 4WD REAR BAR CHOOSE WISELY or WASTE MONEY
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I have a Raslarr rear bar, hand built with love (not associated with company) cost ==double kidney + gonads,but built to last, made in Vic ..
Uncle Ronny coming in clutch with the good advice again. Was just thinking about a rear bar a couple of days ago. After watching this it’s down to about 5 on my list of priorities
Absolutely loving these in-depth videos Ronny! Super helpful, thank you!
When I put a Norweld canopy on my Dmax I removed the Isuzu tow bar and installed a Hayman Reece Xbar. It improved the departure angle, tidies up the look of the arse end and provides rated recovery points. Whilst I don’t intend on towing regularly, the tow ball is an excellent radiator insertion device for tailgaters!
Should just remove the Dmax & buy a real 4wd like a GU Td42ti coily ute & chuck the towbar on that. Or ya could even getta 80series 1hdt
@@triggerhappy8872 I could, but I’m not a Bogan from Logan!
@@triggerhappy8872 probably wants some airbags ay, keep the brain unscrambled in an oopsiedaisy
@@triggerhappy8872durrrrr get a real 4wd I’m a moron
UNCLE RONNY
Thanks for a great insight and honest feedback. A couple of things that I didn't think of or would of thought that the manufacturer would of done properly
A good rear bar should replace the tow bar and have it integrated in the bar itself also the "recovery points" should be inline with the chassis so there is as much structure behind it as possible
Love the short informational videos. I’m New to overlanding and building my vehicle has resulted in a more practical outcome as a consequence of watching your videos. Optioning what I need and leaving off what I don’t really need, that I probably would have optioned before subscribing and being better informed. 👍👍
I have a rear bumper from 4x4labs in Grass Valley CA. The accessory brackets are interchangeable and can be removed, so I can throw my spare and tools in the back for the vast majority of time when my rig is just on the street. The install involves cutting the back of the frame off and it slides over the remaining rails. Super tough and greatly improves departure angle.
Powder coating never last. I paint my armor with POR-15, then spray with Raptor Liner. Done and done.
Off topic...The tailgate is possibly the most important aspect of a good over-lander. It's your workbench, picnic table and place to change your cloths. It extends the bed so you can haul lumber and other long items (like a pickup truck) and corrals your stuff when you need to get something out on a steep hillside. Barn doors and swing gates suck. I dare you to get something out of the back of your truck on a steep hill. Very disappointed that the new Landcruiser no longer has a tailgate. I'll keep my 80. Cheers Ronny
It's popular for the folks who run my rig model to do a bar with swing away tire carrier. My problem is I wanted to be able to park my rig inside my garage. A tire mounted to the back would have made it too long. In the long run I am glad I didn't go that route. I have the spare inside the cab, I've never needed to pull it out on the trail and I have quick access to the fridge and stuff without having to swing the tire out of the way.
We had 'fun' with the rear bar on our old 60 series. It had a swing away wheel on it that after one particularly rough track ended up sitting at a 45 degree angle. We were lucy the the whole thing didn't fall off. Fixed it with some rebar (yeah the construction stuff) thta was welded underneath. It never broke again. I prefer the setup on the 90 with the spare wheel flush against the back door.
Been thinking of doing this. Thanks for the tips Ronny, this helped heaps.
Great info thanks Ronny. Yes I still want a rear bar. Main reason is so I can put draws in the back as access to the lowering/raising mechanism is through the back floor and I don't want to build a shelf tp put the draws and fridge on. Plus the protection of body panels
I mounted a 180L ARB The big Country under my LC200 2008 manufactured year , taking away the original manufacturer of 42L adding to that a 94L that was under the seat of the copilot . I had an autonomy of 285L cross Turkey from west to east without filling till I reach Iran where filling the 285L costed me less then 40USD …
Nice video. But I think I missed the part about sensor integration and compatibility with new utes. Particularly cross over sensors….
Straight to the point! Just took delivery of my kaymar rear for a discovery 3 but i wont be back to install for another year…oops
Finally! I've been waiting months for this video! Thanks Ronny! Now I can decide which bar to get for my corolla.❤
Benchong
Its a good idea to do a parts audit prior to starting installation as you don't want to find fasteners or other required items missing whilst in the process of installing it.
Great video Ronny. I made a custom bar as when I bought my 80 series I’d didn’t have anything. I went custom to make sure it’s what it want and ended up being cheaper to make then the arb bar was quoted for
Now im not too concerned about getting the tyre out from under my colorado ute mostly because brute force and ignorance are my two favourite ways to solve a practical problem. So i wont worry about swing arms, I've got my eyes on the TJM rear protection bar with the towbar incorporated into the bar so theres a recovery point and its only 1480$ so i only need to sell a finger or two. Thank you so much Ronny for this video it really helps i love these types of videos
I’m glad you find this helpful 👍😄
I have a raslarr rear bar on my Y62 Australian made and they have great videos showing how they basically do everything in house. They're always updating their bars too looms are now plug in and the Towbar is incorporated so you don't have to buy it seperate ($1000 saved)
Yes they're expensive but comparable to the big brands and made in Australia and they take pride in their work.
Another excellent video Ronnie,may I also add for those doing it DIY that includes the cutting of panels (Toyota Prados) ask if the carrier comes with an cutting template,mine didn't and now I'm up for a new rear bumper on my Prado.
Here is an interesting experience we had at the panel shop I worked at. An MN Triton dual cab ute came in with a bent chassis. Only towing a camper trailer on Fraser and just sleeping gear in the tub. Insurance would not honour the claim as it was a failure and not accident. We then went to Mitsubishi for a warranty claim. They inspected the vehicle and also denied a claim becayse it had an ARB rear step/tow bar. The reason for this was because the square tow hitch sat much further back than the factory tow bar, hence increasing the leverage and subsequently adding additional stress onto the chassis.
I bought a rock armour rear bar for my gu. The only issues I have with it is that it didn’t come with fitting instructions I had to RUclips it, doesn’t accommodate for the 3 inch exhaust for side wing bracket to the chassis and the spare wheel pokes out a lil to far out past the side of the vehicle for my likings. Easy to fix which I’ve already modified to suit. All in all a good bar for the price. Plenty of strength in the swing aways as I’ve seen on the cheaper end of rear bars crack due to not having enough support to carry the weight. Rock amour was $1000 cheaper than say a kaymar or Norweld and I believe it’s great value for money bar.
I managed to swap my factory towbar and rear bumper for a kaymar rear bar with wheel carrier and dual jerry can holder on my Amarok. The departure angle has suffered a little, but the bar has sill protection and has taken a beating. You do notice the weight all the way back behind the wheels.
Cheaper than buying and fitting long-range tanks too.
I bought a used JK rear bar on marketplace. It is lighter and has recovery points, better bracing and backup lights. Replaced my heavier 15 yr old plain jane bar. Glad I upgraded bar.
Im looking at a rear bar. Was going to do dual wheel but been advised to avoid. Mainly because i do distance travels and itd be so much easier having spare on rear rather than underneath
My truck is 5 feet(154cm) longer than a Troopy. Makes me laugh a good bit when he talks about adding an extra 200mm in overall length is something you need to consider when driving in a parking lot, lol.
I wish your government didn't have such strict rules, would be great to see your off road community be able to branch out more. But I'm guessing they are there because too many people abused the roads over the years. Hard to maintain so many roads with such a small population, just part of the game.
I traveled out to Melbourne, Sydney and Perth while in Australia. Crazy that here in Texas we have more people than your entire country.
Though I'm sure people who live in Tokyo feel the same about Texas considering them having a population of 37 million!
I think it should also be mentioned that some modern 4wds have no protection for the sensors in the bumper, and some third party rear bars address this. I think considering this is a pretty important point if you own a modern vehicle and plan to drive on any rough roads.
rear bars are extra weight and a massive cost for not much gain, you better of just getting one of those after market wheel carries that bolt to the chassis and leaves the existing bumper alot cheaper and weighs bugger all and clears up space under the car
un-real video. jam packed info. bravo Ronny
Ronnys the man watch me walk into 4x4 shop now and look like i know somthing
Good advice Ronny I had a Kaymar rear bar with wheel holder 2 kidneys so I could put a water tank underneath but I got fed up having to swing it open ever time I needed to get into the tub on my ranger never again 🤬😎
Just put a rear bar on the back of my fully loaded 100s, just a note of warning, make sure the new bar has not covered your point of entry for the spare tyre tool to be inserted into the mechanism that lowers for underbody spare tyre! The company that put rear bar on should have put a cutout in the footstep shelf! After cutting a hole in it, we were able to remove the old spare!
I have to tow for work, so needed the double kidney bar. And you are very right, there was parts missing, the rear lights leaked and I had to modify the stoppers and gas struts to get the arms to open wide enough. They definitely don't give a shit about making anything better. Only one with an integrated tow receiver though
I'm guessing you got a kaymar? It's the only one I've been able to find with an integrated tow receiver. I just haven't been able to part with my kidneys yet.
@@Splitface2811 yep. You can go and put one of the good newer bars like a thorburns or a cruiser company. But you add all that extra weight and have to leave that monstrosity of a tow hitch and bar that comes from factory.
I reckon if you swapped from the factory bar to a kaymar, you would actually save weight if you didn't add swing away arms. Just the tyre swing away would be a little heavier.
I picked up a bar for my Ute, cheaper to replace with steel then stock, importer sold as bolt on replacement with tow capability. Was close to bolt on but had no certification or regulation stamping for the tow bar, denies knowing it needed any compliance. Has been modified to fit with OEM towbar but needs to be welded and fitted for minor misfit our error.
Lol, he snuck in the hitch balls
Im looking for a rear bar for my Nissan patrol,but I can’t find many option that will accommodate a winch,I think that is a must for me.The Nissan patrols in Europe all have this.
I've got the 2-kidney Kaymar rear bar on my 200 Series and its a great bit of gear - but there's no doubt that any rear wheel and jerry carrier makes it a pain in the @ss to access the rear of the vehicle, and it gets worse when you are towing a trailer with a Stone Stomper or other accessories back there. I needed (hmm wanted) the extra fuel and water of a LongRanger tank as justification for a rear bar, but would definitely look at other options on my next build to avoid need for rear carriers.
As a GU Patrol owner it's basically a requirement to have, considering the rear door cracks even with a factory spare let alone a 35" hanging off it.
Got a RASLARR bar and it appears to be very good quality, however they were useless with instructions; sent it unpainted when I requested painted and requested a specific size hole in it for a reverse camera and they made it too big.
Keep em coming Ronny🎉)👍
Love the new vid editing style Ronny. Keep it up.
Hi Ronny. Just to share, FJ Cruiser doesn't habe a good reputation on holding weights on the back door. Common issues overtime is that they do BADLY sag due to mounting heavier stuff. Mounts of the hinges due crack by putting alot of weight. As much as i want to hang my maxtrax or 20l jerry on my doorshell, i can't. Sadly, they don't sell any rear bar with swingouts in NZ. An Ozzy company can't even ship them. I've seen your modified series on FJ and those rear bar are really game changers to the owners
Great balanced video Ronny. One thing I see, especially on well bodies, is owners who have a rear bar with accessories that go beyond rear overhang. Too much stress on the chassis & it attracts the attention of the mermaids 😒
I am a boilermaker welder and I have made many rear bars and roo bars over the years. I make it my business to look at some of these rear bars and I am horrified how poorly made some of them are made. They are made to a price and I seen some ripped off the back of the vehicle when they have used the recovery points on them. I have seen some where the welds or steel have cracked and the bar is just hanging on due to vibration after travelling on rough roads. I have personally found bolting recovery points on the rear as is on the front of the vehicle if you remove the towbar. In the end you get what you pay for so buy wisely as Ronnie has explained and end up on the side of the road in the shit.
Roll bar disconect, front, rear or both.
Your next video
as long as it comes with bong holders its all good
plate on my bogan chariot is "ragnobong"
lovin life...
Excellent advice Ronny, 10 out of 10, I have a rear bar - a double kidney one I’d say, but I do love it ! I think about the quality more often than i do what it cost me. I say again what a top educational video ❤ well done Sir
I had a rear bar that required an engineer because to install it properly you had to drill 2 holes in the chassis and the place that installed it decided not to do that and not tell anyone we only found out when we saw 5 of the ten remaining bolts had sheered off
So after you get any bar installed check to see if the installation has been done correctly
Jackaroo barn doors don't handle the spare wheel's weight particularly well either, I have seen stress fractures in body panels as a result.
In some situations it will make your 4x4 more capable and more stable.
But most of the time it will make it less capable
Great Video Buddy! I am in the process of building one for myself, and the two ,aim things I am very wary or is adding excess weight without it being strong enough to protect my corners and quarters. I was wondering in the cases of single and dual swing arms, have you seen many that run the steel bar and frame, but then have Ally swingarms to cut down the weight gained? I would have thought an aluminium swingarm with a steel pressed bush in it, to drop onto the bar would be a decent option for smaller rigs.
I was leaning this way myself. Aluminum tube, square or round.
Yep been saving up for 2 years and counting for a rear bar on my troopy. No one wants to offer me after pay 😂
Can you get rear bars, with removeable towing hitches?
I have a UZJ100, not particularly looking to add any swingouts but I'd love to have something to protect the body a little more if some idiot rear-ends me on the road. Any recommendation for a bar that's just good armor?
I'll do ya one better on departure angle. My rear bar removes the factory tow and has a tow package built in the bar up higher and out of the way
Here in the USA I have been looking for a Rear Bar (Rear Bumper in American English) that will increase the departure angle on a Lexus GX460. Have not found one yet so I started looking for a Rear Bar for a Prado 150 Series, which is essentially a Toyota GX460 but not available in the USA. Still looking......
Best to get a custom made from a reputable fabricator or get an Aussie made one. Don't cheap out.
Is alloy or aluminium a viable construction material for rear bars?
Dose it work or Does it work?
Was thinking to put a rear bar with double jerry can on my hilux . Suggest!
I'd really like to get the spare off my 90 series rear door. I'm guessing it's got some sag, you really have to slam it closed.
Hey mate, I’m sorry I haven’t watched this video yet, but I’m catching up and wanted to ask if you could do a review on the 1991 Suzuki serria SJ70? My partner loved your channel and you have taught me so much, he has a little zook and would love your opinion on them. Love your work mate! ❤
So I'm casualy walking at camp in newman watching this video and walk past the rig little bear. Lol small world
True
can i get on of these for my fiat panda 4x4?
I'm not getting a rear bar any more. Thanks. 😊
you can solve most of these problems and make it yourself a rear bar it isn't hard to make if you have semi-decent skills with are welder
Ronny, how do you feel about aluminum bars instead of steel? It certainly won't offer as much protection, but it's SIGNIFICANTLY lighter
I have a 3" tjm steel bar, hit a roo, 9k damage
You forgot to mention that a rear bar is mandatory for GU patrols that drive on dirt roads. Rear lights in the factor bumper just get rattled to pieces
More capable
Well done as usual. I don't know how much research you do to give us the goods we need to make a decision, but me thinks it's a lot. Got a Kaymar rear bar for my LC300 GR Sport cos I needed the long range fuel tank, so had to get rid of the under slung wheel. It has issues and I only had to donate one Kidney to get it. The other Kidney was already traded in for the front end accessories.
Interested to know what issues you had? Did they also tell you the recovery points load rating? Thanks
I built mine I couldn’t see spending $3000 for a rear bar with a swing away wheel carrier
lol exhaust won't fit? Doesn't matter i ripped mine off on a track and never replaced it, (past muffler).
Dual cab = tub chop with rear bar
👍
Will we ever see Mrs. Dahl?
Why would ya pull ya towbar off & not be able to tow anything?
Then we need to hear the plans for life after the Troopie.
I'll go rhythm
Sorry mate, when you said 10 reasons "off the top of your head", I paused the video an dcount4ed . There were only !
Rear bar = Rear bumper????
Rear bar > Rear Bumper ;D
Was going to watch but you have a Toyota.
Cant lower his ladder properly.
But u still have to give a kidney either way
I know you are trying to educate, but you come across very condescending. You are not a guru .
Oh. It was a nice educative video, but why is it edited like a TicToc vid? So many pip videos. Why? One or two were funny, but not that many. We are not 10 y.o. Why the editor used so many fast zoom ins? It is disturbing. Do you have two video editors? There is a huge difference between this video and your other pieces.
the stub axle was literally right in front of you and you didn't even mention it once! haha good video though ! pretty tough decision for the cost $$$$ vs practicality 🛻🤙📹😎