Extremely impressive sir. You are a true craftsman. The small details, the fit and finish is amazing. I learn a lot from this video so thank you for sharing. You gained another subscriber for sure
That is some impressive work. I have a couple of V12 engines laying around, I always thought it would be a cool project to place one of those V12's in an Apache truck. I have some Cadillac 500 engines and put one of them in a Jag. Most would say that I should put one of those in the Apache instead, but the V12 would be a more unique project. Lotta work though and the wife wants me to stop with these projects.
If you can’t find pickled and oiled steel you can always use muriatic acid you’ll just need to find a plastic tub or container to immerse the steel, it takes about 10 minutes. Be sure you do it outside with plenty of ventilation the gases are not good to breathe. Take the steel out and rinse it in water and baking soda to neutralize the acid, after that you’ve got nice clean steel. If you want to shine it up I use 80 grit sand paper on my random orbital sander, real nice finish. As far as the frame question I use a adjustable square on the top of the frame to mark the lower part that I need to cut off. I use 3 inch cut off wheel on my die grinder, makes quick work of the trimming.
Nice work Steve. Everything is so nice and clean.. You do nice welding. I wish I was even 1/2 as good. I get by, but my welds are always high. Thanks for sharing.
Hey Rick, I'm getting my first project truck on Monday! It's a '51 GMC half ton. I'm located here in Rathdrum, and was hoping to touch base with you when I have complex fab / automotive questions.I've benefits watched your videos on your '53 and you seem like a knowledgeable guy.
Hey Steve. Love your videos. Im doing a 51 chevy shortbox. Ive got my frame stripped and nearly ready to box. Youve come to a lot of the junctions that I will face and I have a few questions I hope you have time for. Curious how you boxed the frame and mounted the 4 link with bolts. How do you get at the nuts? Ive been struggling with what to keep rivited on and box over and what I should be welding onto the frame. Also, what did you use to fill all the rivit holes in the frame? Good stuff. Keep up the awesome videos!
I like your explanation thank you, I have an a model chassis, I was thinking of doing the frame . The chassis needs to be welded by a tradesman it’s the rule here in Australia, that’s ok , I’ll tack weld in brackets etc but it’s the rear end as people say I need to z the rear for a lower look , as a hobbiest this is the area I’m unsure about so if you have done this before and have any ideas I would appreciate any input thanks Harry
My frame has areas where the bottom flange is wider than the top flange, did you cut down those areas so both top and bottom flanges were the same? I also heard in one video that you use hot rolled pickled and oiled steel, I can't get this material in my area. What is my next best option? All of your steel is clean and bright, no rust or paint, how do you get steel that almost looks like cold rolled? I have used a product from Eastwood Products called Fast Etch after blast cleaning and it works pretty good at preserving the clean rust free surface. Thanks for the videos, you have inspired me to raise my quality of fabrication. I have been in the steel fabrication business all of my life but have not done much actual fabrication.
Hi Adam I couldn’t bend that tight either so I bought it from a company called Art Morrison in Tacoma Washington it was not very expensive, you can buy it in a half loop or a full loop nice company to deal with
Looking awesome! I couldn't tell I'd that was a 4l60 or 4l80 trans but I'm working on a 51 and it came to me with the kit for under the cab. My concern is the space between the booster and the 4l80 I'm using.. I haven't got it back yet bur seeing your video I was wondering If you'd run into an't issues. Thank you!
Tim the transmission that I have is the 4L70e I believe it’s almost identical to the one that you’re looking at. I tried to put the booster under the cab but there wasn’t enough room for the exhaust. The exhaust would have to run below the booster and I didn’t want it that low. I decided to put the booster and master cylinder on the firewall. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Tim I forgot to mention I just posted a video mounting my master cylinder and booster on the firewall, check it out I think it might answer a lot of your questions
Hi Adam I couldn’t bend it that tight myself so I bought a tubular half loop from art Morrison.com the part number is 33330125 , it was 35 bucks not a bad deal, nice tight radius and the tubing is sized so it fits perfectly with 2 x 4 rectangular tubing.
I'm in the process of boxing the frame for my 37 Chev PU. I'm only doing 3 feet from the front radiator mount to 5" behind the front cab bolt. I figure I'll put a hole in the boxing to reach the cab bolt. Why did you box the whole frame? Where did you get your Trans mount?
Michael here’s what I did the first thing was I took all of the unnecessary brackets off the frame then I put the frame on for jackstands the six-ton variety so I could get the frame higher off the ground used door shims to level the frame front to back and to side to side. I used the front core support crossmember and the rear crossmember and found the centerpoint I used a center punch to mark the crossmembers I didn’t want to use felt marker that could possibly rub off. I used some fluorescent colored construction twine and stretched it from front to back lining it up with a center punch marks pulled it really tight that way I had a good visual look at where the center line was all the way down the frame. I marked the new front end crossmember Centerpoint and then I used a plumbob to fit it into the frame and get it centered using the string as a reference point. I hope this helps let me know if you have anymore questions.
Thanks so much for responding to me I will try this with the guy that's helping with the mustang 2 front end. Do you think that using the bump stop location or the point of removing the shocks on a 1951 ford truck will help out in the location.
@@michaellane8294 I put the cab on the frame and mounted the fender to the cab and I put my front end suspension where it look the best in the fender opening this is the point where you can really dial in how your truck looks for example in the rear on my Chevy the factory puts the tire forward in the wheel well opening I really didn’t look right so I moved the centerpoint of the rear tire about an inch and a half toward the back centering it in the wheel well opening I know it’s a little extra work but take the time to mock up your tires in the wheel wells and make sure it looks the way you want it to look you can always adjust your driveshaft length later
Are you going to weld up the holes in the very front frame rails that the factory suspension mounted to? I see you haven't done it yet. I didn't do mine either but figure I would ask in case I am missing something. Great work Thank you!
Adam T If you’re talking about those three holes in the front frame rails those are for the bumper brackets, I welded some threaded inserts on the inside so I can just bolt on bumper brackets without having to get a wrench and fiddle for a nut on the inside.
Thanks for the comment Brad I put a 9 inch Ford axle in the truck 350 gears with posit traction I didn’t C notch it because I didn’t plan on slamming it to the ground I think that looks cool but I’m doing more of a daily driver resto mod look I believe I have about 3 1/2 inches till I hit the bump stop.
Scott 20 gauge is really light (.0359). what’s the thickness of the frame on the 34 Hudson i’m guessing it’s at least 1/8 inch (.125) more likely 3/16 (.188) my recommendation is the boxing plate should be around the same thickness as the frame rails that will give you your most rigidity and strength. Plus you’ll be able to mount brackets and tabs whatever you need to the inside of the frame for exhaust hangers and all kinds of stuff.
Hello, I have a 49 and a 50 3100. The bottom lip of the frame extends farther inward than the top lip of the frame rail. Did you need to cut the bottom lip to make it 90 degrees with the top? Thank you very much
Adam I did have to cut the bottom frame I used an adjustable square and scribed a mark on the lower frame rail and then I just used a cut off wheel and took my time. I used a flat file diagonally to clean up the cut
Rafael Sanchez It’s a TCI 4 link setup, it’s pretty stout, DOM tubing and high end helm joints. the diagonal bar doesn’t have to be as large, its job is to keep the differential centered in the frame. The four links are plenty stout. I hope that helps.
It’s a TCI 4 link set up. DOM tubing, and high end heim joints. the diagonal bar is smaller but its job is just to keep the differential centered in the frame, I hope that helps Rafael
@@idahofabricator8710 I dont know looks like it's made of pretty thin material. Compare to other 4 links on the market should be a intrested to see if holds with that LS engine
This video has helped me so much, thank you
Extremely impressive sir. You are a true craftsman. The small details, the fit and finish is amazing. I learn a lot from this video so thank you for sharing. You gained another subscriber for sure
That is some impressive work. I have a couple of V12 engines laying around, I always thought it would be a cool project to place one of those V12's in an Apache truck. I have some Cadillac 500 engines and put one of them in a Jag. Most would say that I should put one of those in the Apache instead, but the V12 would be a more unique project. Lotta work though and the wife wants me to stop with these projects.
Good slide show Steven, nice quality work
Hi
Thank you for making all these videos, i`m learning alot.
Lasse from Sweden
If you can’t find pickled and oiled steel you can always use muriatic acid you’ll just need to find a plastic tub or container to immerse the steel, it takes about 10 minutes. Be sure you do it outside with plenty of ventilation the gases are not good to breathe. Take the steel out and rinse it in water and baking soda to neutralize the acid, after that you’ve got nice clean steel. If you want to shine it up I use 80 grit sand paper on my random orbital sander, real nice finish. As far as the frame question I use a adjustable square on the top of the frame to mark the lower part that I need to cut off. I use 3 inch cut off wheel on my die grinder, makes quick work of the trimming.
Can't stop watching this video! So much good information here.
Exquisite work & attention to detail. Thanks for sharing your thoughts & ideas.
You do some really good fabrication, I'm excited to do this on my truck. good instructions
Thank you. Love your creativity 😎
Nice job. Thanks for the inspiration.
Nice work Steve. Everything is so nice and clean.. You do nice welding. I wish I was even 1/2 as good. I get by, but my welds are always high. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the feedback ... Great job!
Really detailed, high quality work
tnx for sharing your a G!
I'm doing a 59 apache good idears
impresive craftsmanship thanks for sharing
Good quality work, thank you Sir for sharing...
That is absolutely incredible, great work!
Thanks for the kind words Scott
Very clean work sir.
Hey there great video and beautiful work. I learned a lot from watching this video.
Great job my friend!!!
very nice work, well done
Very cool. Thanks!
Really nice work
Hey Rick, I'm getting my first project truck on Monday! It's a '51 GMC half ton. I'm located here in Rathdrum, and was hoping to touch base with you when I have complex fab / automotive questions.I've benefits watched your videos on your '53 and you seem like a knowledgeable
guy.
Nice work!!!
Great video!
Nice work my friend!
Nice work 😊
Good work.
The coil over crossmember was included with the four link suspension package, I just had to modify it a little to fit my application.
Verty good job explaining the spreading tool, i got it
Thank you for your advise,I'll use a thicker Gage metal
No problem Scott I’d love to see your project put some pictures on my Instagram Idaho fabricator
Nice work
Hey Steve. Love your videos. Im doing a 51 chevy shortbox. Ive got my frame stripped and nearly ready to box. Youve come to a lot of the junctions that I will face and I have a few questions I hope you have time for.
Curious how you boxed the frame and mounted the 4 link with bolts. How do you get at the nuts? Ive been struggling with what to keep rivited on and box over and what I should be welding onto the frame. Also, what did you use to fill all the rivit holes in the frame?
Good stuff. Keep up the awesome videos!
I like your explanation thank you, I have an a model chassis, I was thinking of doing the frame . The chassis needs to be welded by a tradesman it’s the rule here in Australia, that’s ok , I’ll tack weld in brackets etc but it’s the rear end as people say I need to z the rear for a lower look , as a hobbiest this is the area I’m unsure about so if you have done this before and have any ideas I would appreciate any input thanks Harry
This is great. I am in Idaho and just about to start my frame work on a 55 ford f100. This will help.
I love the body lines of the 55 Ford f100 that’s gonna be a cool project. What part of Idaho are you living?
Idaho Fabricator Boise
I have never been a good welder so here I go.
My frame has areas where the bottom flange is wider than the top flange, did you cut down those areas so both top and bottom flanges were the same?
I also heard in one video that you use hot rolled pickled and oiled steel, I can't get this material in my area. What is my next best option? All of your steel is clean and bright, no rust or paint, how do you get steel that almost looks like cold rolled? I have used a product from Eastwood Products called Fast Etch after blast cleaning and it works pretty good at preserving the clean rust free surface.
Thanks for the videos, you have inspired me to raise my quality of fabrication. I have been in the steel fabrication business all of my life but have not done much actual fabrication.
how did you get the driveshaft loop bent that tight? My dies won't bend it that tight. Great Work.
Hi Adam I couldn’t bend that tight either so I bought it from a company called Art Morrison in Tacoma Washington it was not very expensive, you can buy it in a half loop or a full loop nice company to deal with
I love your work! Doing a 1950 right now and using several of your ideas!
Well yeah all Gearhead’s should know who art Morrison is
Nice! Did you use 1/8 or 3/16 for the boxing plates?
Looking awesome! I couldn't tell I'd that was a 4l60 or 4l80 trans but I'm working on a 51 and it came to me with the kit for under the cab. My concern is the space between the booster and the 4l80 I'm using.. I haven't got it back yet bur seeing your video I was wondering If you'd run into an't issues. Thank you!
Tim the transmission that I have is the 4L70e I believe it’s almost identical to the one that you’re looking at. I tried to put the booster under the cab but there wasn’t enough room for the exhaust. The exhaust would have to run below the booster and I didn’t want it that low. I decided to put the booster and master cylinder on the firewall. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Tim I forgot to mention I just posted a video mounting my master cylinder and booster on the firewall, check it out I think it might answer a lot of your questions
👍👍
Nice stuff , was wondering how many degrees the motor was down and how many up was the diff ,thank you for your time if you have it
The engine is angled 3° down and the differential is 3° up
Hi Adam I couldn’t bend it that tight myself so I bought a tubular half loop from art Morrison.com the part number is 33330125 , it was 35 bucks not a bad deal, nice tight radius and the tubing is sized so it fits perfectly with 2 x 4 rectangular tubing.
Made perfect sense to me..! back to the nut house, for a little rest after this video..
How low does it sit? I want to do a C notch and try not to eat up bed space
what is the inside dimension of your driveshaft loop on your crossmember? I don't think my dies will bend 2" that tight. Thanks
Steven is 1/4” stainless tubing over-klll?, for break line replacement?
I'm in the process of boxing the frame for my 37 Chev PU. I'm only doing 3 feet from the front radiator mount to 5" behind the front cab bolt. I figure I'll put a hole in the boxing to reach the cab bolt. Why did you box the whole frame? Where did you get your Trans mount?
Hi we’re did you order the 2” loop from?
Steve, where are you located in Idaho if I may ask? Did you ever find a COE project? I may know of a Ford if it's still available here in Twin Falls.
I’m just outside of Rathdrum
Hey Steve really like how you're putting the truck together. How did you find your center line, when you upgraded the front end suspension.
Michael here’s what I did the first thing was I took all of the unnecessary brackets off the frame then I put the frame on for jackstands the six-ton variety so I could get the frame higher off the ground used door shims to level the frame front to back and to side to side. I used the front core support crossmember and the rear crossmember and found the centerpoint I used a center punch to mark the crossmembers I didn’t want to use felt marker that could possibly rub off. I used some fluorescent colored construction twine and stretched it from front to back lining it up with a center punch marks pulled it really tight that way I had a good visual look at where the center line was all the way down the frame. I marked the new front end crossmember Centerpoint and then I used a plumbob to fit it into the frame and get it centered using the string as a reference point. I hope this helps let me know if you have anymore questions.
Thanks so much for responding to me I will try this with the guy that's helping with the mustang 2 front end. Do you think that using the bump stop location or the point of removing the shocks on a 1951 ford truck will help out in the location.
@@michaellane8294 I put the cab on the frame and mounted the fender to the cab and I put my front end suspension where it look the best in the fender opening this is the point where you can really dial in how your truck looks for example in the rear on my Chevy the factory puts the tire forward in the wheel well opening I really didn’t look right so I moved the centerpoint of the rear tire about an inch and a half toward the back centering it in the wheel well opening I know it’s a little extra work but take the time to mock up your tires in the wheel wells and make sure it looks the way you want it to look you can always adjust your driveshaft length later
@@idahofabricator8710 Thanks again for the information and I look forward to seeing more videos from you thanks 👍
Are you going to weld up the holes in the very front frame rails that the factory suspension mounted to? I see you haven't done it yet. I didn't do mine either but figure I would ask in case I am missing something. Great work Thank you!
Adam I think I’m gonna leave it open for now I thought about boxing it but I couldn’t come up with a way that looked right
@@idahofabricator8710 Thanks for the reply. Will you leave the drilled factory holes ahead of the crossmember there or weld them ? Stay Healthy!
Adam T If you’re talking about those three holes in the front frame rails those are for the bumper brackets, I welded some threaded inserts on the inside so I can just bolt on bumper brackets without having to get a wrench and fiddle for a nut on the inside.
What axel do you have in there? I also didn’t see any C notches
Thanks for the comment Brad I put a 9 inch Ford axle in the truck 350 gears with posit traction I didn’t C notch it because I didn’t plan on slamming it to the ground I think that looks cool but I’m doing more of a daily driver resto mod look I believe I have about 3 1/2 inches till I hit the bump stop.
did you make or buy the coilover cross member?
i need to do the same thing, wasn't sure if i could buy it.
Did you use 1/8 or 3/16 plate for boxing?
3/16 Adam it’s the same as the factory frame rails if you can get pickled and oiled it’ll come without any mill scale, welds really nice.
I'm going to box the frame on a 34 hudson 5 window coupe what Gage metal would you suggest I use, I was going to use 20 Gage.
Scott 20 gauge is really light (.0359). what’s the thickness of the frame on the 34 Hudson i’m guessing it’s at least 1/8 inch (.125) more likely 3/16 (.188) my recommendation is the boxing plate should be around the same thickness as the frame rails that will give you your most rigidity and strength. Plus you’ll be able to mount brackets and tabs whatever you need to the inside of the frame for exhaust hangers and all kinds of stuff.
Hello, I have a 49 and a 50 3100. The bottom lip of the frame extends farther inward than the top lip of the frame rail. Did you need to cut the bottom lip to make it 90 degrees with the top? Thank you very much
Adam I did have to cut the bottom frame I used an adjustable square and scribed a mark on the lower frame rail and then I just used a cut off wheel and took my time. I used a flat file diagonally to clean up the cut
Put the adjustable square on the top frame rail extend it down to the bottom rail and then make your mark I hope that makes better sense
The 4 link looks small and thin. Like it would twist and brake
Rafael Sanchez It’s a TCI 4 link setup, it’s pretty stout, DOM tubing and high end helm joints. the diagonal bar doesn’t have to be as large, its job is to keep the differential centered in the frame. The four links are plenty stout. I hope that helps.
It’s a TCI 4 link set up. DOM tubing, and high end heim joints. the diagonal bar is smaller but its job is just to keep the differential centered in the frame, I hope that helps Rafael
@@idahofabricator8710 I dont know looks like it's made of pretty thin material. Compare to other 4 links on the market should be a intrested to see if holds with that LS engine
What rear end is in the truck?
What was the thickness of the metal to box it
I used 3/16 thick steel, if you can get (pickled and oiled) steel it won’t have any mill scale, much better to work with, makes for a nicer welds.
What size wire did you run? .035?
Mostly .035, if I’m doing lots of sheet metal work I use easy grind .030
cheaper then a potra power and a clamp on top.
What tank did u put in
Jorge I got the tank from Tanks Inc, it’s for a 41-48 Ford the part # is 48G I just checked the web site and they should be in stock by October.
Thank you 👍🏼
how much is the cost of the tank?