I bought one too from its original owner last month. I'm shooting my first roll and I really like it! I really hope it will keep working for a long time, it's much better than the Ricoh Kr-10x that used to be my "flaghship" 35mm SLR before.
Lovely used one for year's still got it took some great shots with it dont use it so much nowadays with digital cameras never get rid of it on par with cameras of today a lot of the time have fun with it 😀
@DavidHancock 4:10 Before exposure, the light does NOT go through the semi-silvered part of the mirror and bounce off the shutter curtain, then to the sensor. The light goes through the semi-silvered main mirror, then to a hinged secondary mirror on the back of the main mirror, which reflects the light downward to the sensor. The secondary mirror flips up flat against the back of the main mirror when the main mirror flips up.
@@DavidHancock The reason for the secondary mirror is this: the first shutter curtain, and the film, both reflect to the photocell a portion of the light falling on them. The semi-silvered portion of the main mirror passes a like amount, which is reflected to the photocell via the secondary "piggyback" mirror. So through either means, the photocell reads the same amount of light. If the light went through the semi-silvered part, then reflected off the film to the photocell, it would be reduced twice.
12:07 RE: the sports finder. There are three options to go on the finder base: The rotating sports finder shown, which gives a smaller image with much more eye relief; a regular eyepiece, making the view like through the regular prisms, so it's essentially a 45 degree finder; and the Magni-Eyepiece, which gives a wide diopter range but otherwise the image is the same as through the regular eyepiece. Aperture setting is visible with all these, at the bottom instead of the top, though the sports finder's image size reduction makes it rather hard to read.
Fabulous Presentation - thanks. I have K1000, ME SE, ME Super and MX - the MX is my favourite. I can't see an LX comin' My way. I also Canon's (AE1+P & EF) and can't see an F1 comin' my way.
Great camera used it for years never no problem some had stickey mirror had some great shots off it never sell it even now using digital cameras so many memories of using it lovely machine
@@jocknarn3225 yeah it's an all mechanical camera. It has a few advanced features as well such as depth of field preview, self timer and a hole on the bottom for a motor drive or winder. It's smaller and believe it or not cheaper.
gr8 rundown very inspiring; Lucky thing is, can reuse the K-mount lenses from my MESuper👍. (Btw; LX stands for 60 as in 60th anniversary). Took mine in 4 repairs/service y'day. Luckily the problems r mechanical, fixable but of-course expensive (Was worried over possible electronic issues). I don't subscribe 2 forum sticky mirror hacks .. best 2 strip that mirror box down 4 peace of mind. Just sharing + a mate, not only do original rubber dampers "devolve 2 their constituent oils" & goo (like in Portastudio tape multitracks) but they deform with predictable results .. the LX is a super-precision instrument .. any deviation from spec will tell .. & hacks r temporary not 2 mention the introduction of loose foreign material into the works. The Blue & Red "flags" r missing in the viewfinder light-meter scale .. was told that too is mechanical & fixable. Problem 4 us enthusiasts is finding cameras suffering more from prolonged disuse as with mine .. in near-pristine cosmetic condition but stored disused 4 decades. So lookin' 4ward getting it back. Did u hear, folks, Pentax is planning a range of new film cameras?
I'm a little confused about the metering. I understand the spot metering component. But what is the purpose of the average metering if it's only available during the exposure, isn't that too late? Second question: Can I double fire the shutter for double exposures, or will the camera not let you fire until you've wound the film advancing lever?
For the metering, it's not. In terms of electronics and light, even a 1/1,000th of a second is a long time. So the camera can adjust to changing conditions in real time. For the double exposures, I do cover how to do that in the second video (there's a link in the description of this video, and each video has a topic index.)
@@DavidHancockOh okay, I get it now. The average metering is useful for the automatic modes, that makes sense. Thanks so much! I really appreciate you making these. They are immensely helpful in me getting to know my new camera
Thanks for the detailed video. Mine miscalculates the shutter speed on automatic mode (manual works fine). I guess I need a new PCB. Do you know by any chance where could I source one?
Hoo boy. I think this video has a section on the problems with repairing these. These are VERY hard to find parts for and, as of this video's recording, I knew of only one shop in the world willing to bench test them to see if they can be fixed. I'm not sure if those guys are still fixing these. The problem is that, externally, the LX cameras all look identical. Internally, there are multiple generations of upgrades and upgrade combinations. You'd need to source a part from a camera made about the same time as your own with the same internal components. The serial numbers are, as I understand, of little help (if any) in figuring out the production date or sequence. So to find the correct part, you may need to plan on buying multiple parts LX bodies and hoping that one of them is correct AND that the failed electronics aren't also a problem for it. A lot of the problems that cameras -- all models and all makers -- have are common failures across model lines. So a failed component on yours has a higher chance of being a failed component on another.
@@DavidHancock that sucks, I found the camera for 200 bucks and the shop claimed it was fault free. I just couldnt resist. But now they are offering to buy it back, so I think this is what I am going to do. I do not want to be limited to only the mechanical shutter speeds. Such a shame because it really is a lovely camera.
@@DavidHancock There is one external difference that can be used to roughly determine age. The shutter lock was changed. The earlier ones are like yours; the later ones encircle the shutter button and are higher. I don't know when the change was, but the later lock style means the camera is not among the oldest. I've been told the lock change came in the last 1/2 or 1/3 of the total years of production. I have not verified that.
So David you’ve said in another video that Pentax LX bodies are all but unrepairable along with the Minolta XK. Should I stop looking for either and just get a Nikon F2?
I would have trouble, in good conscience, recommending either an LX or XK to someone as a camera to buy and use unless they knew what they were buying, how to test it, and were buying from a reputable seller. An F2 would be a more robust option, especially without a metered prism.
You'll want more than tape because, IIRC, the cap covers a hold to the camera's core. Some tin foil, a small coin, or similar thing tapes over the bottom will work until you can replace the cover.
@@DavidHancock So at the time I didnt have a tape or anything close by so I used the Winder since it also fits in that hole. Its a tad bit heavier but the images came out clean
Hi! Great Video. I have a problem, the camera shows that it is cocked' but it tried to shoot' even with a shutter release cable but it won't shoot. any idea?
Thank you! A couple of ideas come to mind: 1- Make sure you have batteries. Not all shutter speeds will fire without batteries. 2- If you have batteries, try firing the shutter on "B" with the lens removed. The mirror should flip up and the shutter should stay open as long as you hold down "B". If the mirror does not flip up, try gently lifting it as you hold the "B" down. If the pads that the mirror rests on are sticky, they can "glue" the mirror into place. Another possibility is that the lubricating oils in the camera are gummy. In either case, a gently lift on the mirror may be enough to cause the camera shutter action to commence. Let me know what happens and I may have other ideas.
hi there i recently picked an LX with 3 lenses up for 30 pounds, one thing is missing though the battery spring that goes under the batterys and the rubber insert for battery lid/cover. unable to shot anything slower than 1/125. have you got any idea if replacements are available? im not having much luck
Oh boy. The battery spring meaning the contact inside the battery chamber? If yes, that will need some disassembly and possibly a replacement part. For the rubber insert, I'm honestly not sure what part that is. There is one place left that I know of that performs repairs on these, and I am blanking on their name right now. They're in the UK, and I'm guessing you're in the UK, so it may be worth tracking them down to see about a bench fee.
@@DavidHancock not the battery spring(contact) on the side of the battery chamber but the springy thing that pushes the batteries up from the bottom of the chamber. I put batteries in without the correct battery housing pieces i am missing(as seen in your video), but the camera kept giving me very light electric shocks and didnt ativate the meter or slower speeds either so im guessing it needs a spring or a packer or some sort to fill the gap, would it be dangerous to get creative? i appreciate the reply ..ok thank you I'll do some research on this UK company.
@@user-iw7rz6zn1u oh got it. Yeah, a temporary working could be a tiny piece of wadded tinfoil. A spring from a flashlight, AAA or maybe AA, could work.
Angle grinder. Just kidding. You'll need something like a dime and on the bottom side (perimeter, not the side that faces the camera) push it upward and the clip that holds them on will slide upward. They should come off easily. If the clip doesn't slide, try the opposite side.
@@Wake_N_Jake Hmm. And the batteries are installed correctly and they're fresh batteries, correct? If you gently pry the mirror downward, does it drop down?
I love my LX bodies, don't get me wrong. I could not in good faith recommend them to most people due solely to the increasing difficulty with the repair situation.
Best camera Pentax ever made. Exposers are always perfect.
I bought one last November, had it serviced and it's a wonderful camera. I love it.
Nice! Where did you have it serviced?
@@DavidHancock Kamerazeit in Lübeck, Germany
I bought one too from its original owner last month. I'm shooting my first roll and I really like it! I really hope it will keep working for a long time, it's much better than the Ricoh Kr-10x that used to be my "flaghship" 35mm SLR before.
Lovely used one for year's still got it took some great shots with it dont use it so much nowadays with digital cameras never get rid of it on par with cameras of today a lot of the time have fun with it 😀
@DavidHancock
4:10 Before exposure, the light does NOT go through the semi-silvered part of the mirror and bounce off the shutter curtain, then to the sensor. The light goes through the semi-silvered main mirror, then to a hinged secondary mirror on the back of the main mirror, which reflects the light downward to the sensor. The secondary mirror flips up flat against the back of the main mirror when the main mirror flips up.
Thank you for the correction!
@@DavidHancock The reason for the secondary mirror is this: the first shutter curtain, and the film, both reflect to the photocell a portion of the light falling on them. The semi-silvered portion of the main mirror passes a like amount, which is reflected to the photocell via the secondary "piggyback" mirror. So through either means, the photocell reads the same amount of light. If the light went through the semi-silvered part, then reflected off the film to the photocell, it would be reduced twice.
@@jeli3953 thank you! That makes a lot of sense.
12:07
RE: the sports finder. There are three options to go on the finder base: The rotating sports finder shown, which gives a smaller image with much more eye relief; a regular eyepiece, making the view like through the regular prisms, so it's essentially a 45 degree finder; and the Magni-Eyepiece, which gives a wide diopter range but otherwise the image is the same as through the regular eyepiece. Aperture setting is visible with all these, at the bottom instead of the top, though the sports finder's image size reduction makes it rather hard to read.
Fabulous Presentation - thanks. I have K1000, ME SE, ME Super and MX - the MX is my favourite. I can't see an LX comin' My way. I also Canon's (AE1+P & EF) and can't see an F1 comin' my way.
Thank you!
⭐️ excellent review - thanks for taking the time to make this ⭐️ 👍
Thank you!
Great camera used it for years never no problem some had stickey mirror had some great shots off it never sell it even now using digital cameras so many memories of using it lovely machine
I agree. I love these.
I got your book on the Pentax LX today.
Nice and thank you! I really hope you enjoy it and that it's helpful.
I truly love my LX even more then my Pentax 6x7 or 645 I love them too.
@@DavidHancock
i have always been hesitant about pentax glass vs its nikon counterpart. how are they compared?
i must say this pentax camera looks amazing!
They're both incredible in different ways. The major brands all made wonderful lenses.
Sadly I had one and had never ending problems with it. I am sure it's a great camera. Alas I went back to the MX.
They are great, but once they start having problems, those problems just compound.
@@DavidHancock My counter quit resetting for the 1st time. Hopefully this does not compound.
Yeah I'm thinking of replacing my MESuper with MX .. can u confirm, except 4 the light meter, it's all mechanical .. sorta like a more modern K-1000?
@@jocknarn3225 yeah it's an all mechanical camera. It has a few advanced features as well such as depth of field preview, self timer and a hole on the bottom for a motor drive or winder. It's smaller and believe it or not cheaper.
@@jocknarn3225 That's correct, but the MX went out of production years before the K-1000. So it's not exactly more modern.
gr8 rundown very inspiring; Lucky thing is, can reuse the K-mount lenses from my MESuper👍. (Btw; LX stands for 60 as in 60th anniversary). Took mine in 4 repairs/service y'day. Luckily the problems r mechanical, fixable but of-course expensive (Was worried over possible electronic issues). I don't subscribe 2 forum sticky mirror hacks .. best 2 strip that mirror box down 4 peace of mind. Just sharing + a mate, not only do original rubber dampers "devolve 2 their constituent oils" & goo (like in Portastudio tape multitracks) but they deform with predictable results .. the LX is a super-precision instrument .. any deviation from spec will tell .. & hacks r temporary not 2 mention the introduction of loose foreign material into the works. The Blue & Red "flags" r missing in the viewfinder light-meter scale .. was told that too is mechanical & fixable. Problem 4 us enthusiasts is finding cameras suffering more from prolonged disuse as with mine .. in near-pristine cosmetic condition but stored disused 4 decades. So lookin' 4ward getting it back. Did u hear, folks, Pentax is planning a range of new film cameras?
Thank you and very nice!
I'm a little confused about the metering. I understand the spot metering component. But what is the purpose of the average metering if it's only available during the exposure, isn't that too late?
Second question: Can I double fire the shutter for double exposures, or will the camera not let you fire until you've wound the film advancing lever?
For the metering, it's not. In terms of electronics and light, even a 1/1,000th of a second is a long time. So the camera can adjust to changing conditions in real time. For the double exposures, I do cover how to do that in the second video (there's a link in the description of this video, and each video has a topic index.)
@@DavidHancockOh okay, I get it now. The average metering is useful for the automatic modes, that makes sense. Thanks so much! I really appreciate you making these. They are immensely helpful in me getting to know my new camera
Thanks for the detailed video. Mine miscalculates the shutter speed on automatic mode (manual works fine). I guess I need a new PCB. Do you know by any chance where could I source one?
Hoo boy. I think this video has a section on the problems with repairing these. These are VERY hard to find parts for and, as of this video's recording, I knew of only one shop in the world willing to bench test them to see if they can be fixed. I'm not sure if those guys are still fixing these. The problem is that, externally, the LX cameras all look identical. Internally, there are multiple generations of upgrades and upgrade combinations. You'd need to source a part from a camera made about the same time as your own with the same internal components. The serial numbers are, as I understand, of little help (if any) in figuring out the production date or sequence. So to find the correct part, you may need to plan on buying multiple parts LX bodies and hoping that one of them is correct AND that the failed electronics aren't also a problem for it. A lot of the problems that cameras -- all models and all makers -- have are common failures across model lines. So a failed component on yours has a higher chance of being a failed component on another.
@@DavidHancock that sucks, I found the camera for 200 bucks and the shop claimed it was fault free. I just couldnt resist. But now they are offering to buy it back, so I think this is what I am going to do. I do not want to be limited to only the mechanical shutter speeds. Such a shame because it really is a lovely camera.
@@DavidHancock There is one external difference that can be used to roughly determine age. The shutter lock was changed. The earlier ones are like yours; the later ones encircle the shutter button and are higher. I don't know when the change was, but the later lock style means the camera is not among the oldest. I've been told the lock change came in the last 1/2 or 1/3 of the total years of production. I have not verified that.
So David you’ve said in another video that Pentax LX bodies are all but unrepairable along with the Minolta XK. Should I stop looking for either and just get a Nikon F2?
I would have trouble, in good conscience, recommending either an LX or XK to someone as a camera to buy and use unless they knew what they were buying, how to test it, and were buying from a reputable seller. An F2 would be a more robust option, especially without a metered prism.
Hey, I have the same camera but the Film Rewind Coupling is missing? Will that be a problem if i cover it w black tape?
You'll want more than tape because, IIRC, the cap covers a hold to the camera's core. Some tin foil, a small coin, or similar thing tapes over the bottom will work until you can replace the cover.
@@DavidHancock So at the time I didnt have a tape or anything close by so I used the Winder since it also fits in that hole. Its a tad bit heavier but the images came out clean
Hi! Great Video.
I have a problem, the camera shows that it is cocked' but it tried to shoot' even with a shutter release cable but it won't shoot. any idea?
Thank you! A couple of ideas come to mind:
1- Make sure you have batteries. Not all shutter speeds will fire without batteries.
2- If you have batteries, try firing the shutter on "B" with the lens removed. The mirror should flip up and the shutter should stay open as long as you hold down "B". If the mirror does not flip up, try gently lifting it as you hold the "B" down. If the pads that the mirror rests on are sticky, they can "glue" the mirror into place. Another possibility is that the lubricating oils in the camera are gummy. In either case, a gently lift on the mirror may be enough to cause the camera shutter action to commence.
Let me know what happens and I may have other ideas.
hi there i recently picked an LX with 3 lenses up for 30 pounds, one thing is missing though the battery spring that goes under the batterys and the rubber insert for battery lid/cover. unable to shot anything slower than 1/125. have you got any idea if replacements are available? im not having much luck
Oh boy. The battery spring meaning the contact inside the battery chamber? If yes, that will need some disassembly and possibly a replacement part. For the rubber insert, I'm honestly not sure what part that is. There is one place left that I know of that performs repairs on these, and I am blanking on their name right now. They're in the UK, and I'm guessing you're in the UK, so it may be worth tracking them down to see about a bench fee.
@@DavidHancock not the battery spring(contact) on the side of the battery chamber but the springy thing that pushes the batteries up from the bottom of the chamber. I put batteries in without the correct battery housing pieces i am missing(as seen in your video), but the camera kept giving me very light electric shocks and didnt ativate the meter or slower speeds either so im guessing it needs a spring or a packer or some sort to fill the gap, would it be dangerous to get creative? i appreciate the reply ..ok thank you I'll do some research on this UK company.
@@user-iw7rz6zn1u oh got it. Yeah, a temporary working could be a tiny piece of wadded tinfoil. A spring from a flashlight, AAA or maybe AA, could work.
@@DavidHancock smart thinking, thanks again
How do you get the strap lugs off?
Angle grinder. Just kidding. You'll need something like a dime and on the bottom side (perimeter, not the side that faces the camera) push it upward and the clip that holds them on will slide upward. They should come off easily. If the clip doesn't slide, try the opposite side.
@@DavidHancock thank you!
Mine has a mirror lock up issue,
Please help
What happens when you turn the shutter dial to different speeds? Does the mirror drop?
@@DavidHancock no sir, stays locked up
@@Wake_N_Jake Hmm. And the batteries are installed correctly and they're fresh batteries, correct? If you gently pry the mirror downward, does it drop down?
@@DavidHancock fresh, properly installed batteries.
As in if I remove the lense can I gently pull the mirror down? Yes.
I used some camera lubricant. Works like magic. Also use the camera shoot a couple rolls, using it helps. Get that shutter moving.
I have to stop watching your channel :)
I love my LX bodies, don't get me wrong. I could not in good faith recommend them to most people due solely to the increasing difficulty with the repair situation.
@@DavidHancock LX worth the investment. David Bailey & I swear by Pentax reliability.