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I've got the dreaded injector seal issue with an A7 C7 and this has explained exactly how to solve without spending a tonne at a garage! Thanks a bunch!
@@tomshaw2192 It's ok to do one but if one is shot then the others are usually pretty worn too! And much better to get ahead of the game as then there is a lot less cleaning involved!
Thanks Ryan for this very informative video! I’ve been quoted hundreds to do this at a garage but I’ve just ordered the parts in your description. I have the other tools already and I am going to do this myself. Keep putting more videos like this, top man!
Hi Ryan, I’ve just fitter my injector kit using your video and it took approx 2 hours. I bought the kits from your list apart from the slide hammer and instead bought a cheaper one on eBay which claimed to have adaptors for Bosch injectors. Unfortunately the adapter didn’t fit (right thread size just flange fowled with injector housing). I then came up with a solution to use a slim 13mm spanner and insert into side of injector and work it loose that way (rotate clockwise and anti-clockwise). So all in all a good job and a lot of money saved! I’ve also documented the condition of the old seals and injectors. In my case it was cylinder 1 and 6 which were the worst and most leaking. The other injectors were clean and shiny upon removal. Once again, many thanks for your video!
Thank you for your help with coding these injectors, I'm fitting two on my friends A6 C7 at weekend and I'm still finding my way around vcds. I have a snapon solus but find vcds on Audi alot better but never coded with it. Great channel 👍
The thread on top of the injector is standard metric. I found a nut in my toolbox which we welded to the slide hammer, worked a treat. Saves buying an expensive “injector removal kit”
The SAE term for the bolts is Torque to Yield, abbreviated TTY. You can actually reuse them a few times. The stress-strain curve for those bolts allows for quite a bit of stretch before they fail. We actually allowed critical fasteners (head bolts, main bolts, etc.) to be used 3 times for the engine I worked on. But, they are also inexpensive, so if available, I wouldn't shy away from re-using them. Thanks for posting the link to the kit. Here in NA, the kits that come when you order from virtually all of the vendors is incorrect, it is for a gasoline (petrol if you prefer) engine. And most don't have a picture so you don't know. So just a heads up to anyone looking. If in a bind, Elring 767140 is the copper washer/seal. Be sure you clean up the injector bore, BTW, or they will fail again quickly. 2 months to be precise :(
I suspect audi sent me the wrong injector hold down bolt for my TDI. It was a bit longer than the one that was in it and it bottomed out and snapped off in the head. Are the FSI injector bolts longer?
Hi, just watched the video, very good and very useful as I remove all the injectors for new copper seals rubber seals and the stretch bolts, but my question is next: the system it's self bleeding of any air at the first start of the engine if they will stay removed for couple of days? Many thanks.
Thank you, and yes they will self bleed as they are under high pressure, it will take a little longer to start on the first start up afterwards while the air is removed through the injectors, my vehicle started perfect on the second attempt.
Excellent video, Ryan. Just one question for you: I suspect one of more of my injectors are faulty (engine running irregularly and smell of diesel in the car). But: how do I find out which one(s) is/are faulty? I do have an EBD2 tool but it's not showing any error codes. Any suggestions? Thx!
It sounds like you may have leaking seals which will eventually damage the injectors, you can sometimes identify which ones are leaking by hearing a chuffing sound and sometimes a strong diesel odour and puff of smoke, but the best way to identify would be to remove the injectors, if you have a leaking seal it would be a good idea to change all of the seals because if 1 has gone more Will likely follow.
When cleaning the injector locating hole if there is carbon build up how do you get carbon out? Will in not go onto the cylinder? Also this will be the same if you need to cut the sealing face for injector. What do you recommend?
I would say the best way is to adapt a hoover pipe with a smaller hose attached to the end, using tape to hold it together should be sufficient as long as it's airtight.
It should be the same if not very similar as this engine is just a later generation with a second turbo, I believe the injectors are the same just with a different calibration setting.
No, the system doesn't need to be depressurised as there will only be pressure when the pump is running, it pressure releases when you turn the engine off.
Ok great! Thank you very much! I've ordered the seal kit from the link you supplied, it will take a month to get here in Australia. Itching to get this fixed on my sq5!
Thank you your detailed video. Question regarding the O ring installation: service procedures told we should use T10377 assembly sleeve for O ring installation. (Well for the CRCA engine but I think it is the same) Do you think it is necessary or is it ok just put the new one on to the injector without using this tool?
Great video! I couldn't find any information on the internet about 2015 Q5 CPNB fitment. Do you have any information for a compatible seal kit that fits CPNB engine? Thanks!
Hi, from this information I see that this engine code has the same Bosch Piezo injectors which will have the same seals as in the video ebay.us/b7WOW4 this listing doesn't display all engine codes that the seals are compatible with, I know this because my engine code wasn't listed but they were the correct seals anyway, hope this helps.
Hi there, I have just removed number 6 injector in a 2014 Audi SQ5 TDI and noticed that it didn't have a copper washer. Does that sound correct to you? I am not sure if someone has previously has the injectors out, but wanted to me sure that I have the right seals when it gets reinstalled.
In my case I used an isopropyl rubbing alcohol (IPA solvent) because I didn't want to use anything too harsh, it helped to rub the carbon away just fine.
brilliant video Ryan, I need your input please, I recently needed to replace parts in my audi V6 tdi which needed the high pressure rail being removed. I did put it back together fine but after getting it to start I feen like the engine developed and miss or like a fuel starvation ( to briefly explain it) I drove the cat about 100 miles and it kinda feels like if develops a miss or fuel starvation as soon as there is a bit of torque on the engine. I get the feeling the pump/rail is not feeding enough diesel through to the motor. Not saying that's what is is, its just how the symptoms look like. I did clean the diesel filter. but am looking at other areas to look at in my quest to trace the issue.
Hi do you do repairs on cars, i need the seals changed on my 3.0 audi a7 and trying to get a harage to do it is a nightmare. Happy to do stuff but not 100% on this one. Im close to Northampton
To be honest I'm a bit tied up with other projects at the moment, hence no videos recently, so I would struggle to find the time at the moment, but it is something I'll be doing in the future
@@RyansWorkshop thanks for the response and no worries, if you change your mind happy to pay or in free labour if you need assistance with any other projects. If not no worries and thanks again for least getting back to me, much appreciated.
Thank you for such an informative video! By chance, do the new injectors or seal kit come with new stretch bolts? If not, where might one find the correct bolts? Thank you
Thanks. The seal kit comes with new bolts, O-rings and copper washers, the injector's themselves won't come with the bolts, just a copper washer as far as I know.
No, it just requires a small flat head screwdriver to assist in lifting the clip upwards, then all you need to do is lift the pipe off of the injector.
Thanks for the reply, ps I should of asked as well, the small Injector chamber caps that stop debris from falling into the cylinder when cleaning, is there a link to buying the correct size because I've read stories/ mixed reviews of the kit you used in your video ie, them falling through / the flange isn't wide enough, is the correct diameter 7.5mm OR 8mm, for my audi a7 2013 engine code CLAA ....ps loved the video....
how much would this roughly cost if an honest mechanic did it? my mechanic quoted 11k australian dollars/5.7k british pounds for the job, is that a fair price?
I might sound foolish but is this the same engine as a Q7 3.0 TDI , I’m having a small fuel leak on the 4-5-6 side. I’m trying to narrow the problem down. Any information is helpful thanks.
@RyansWorkshop ah sorry yes got them thankyou Ryan. You said its a funny size thread ontop of the injector to attatch the slide hammer, does the fitting in your kit have a size on? Im just thinking just buy the correct fitting instead of a whole slide hammer kit
If the injector code isn't entered into the ECU, it will receive incorrect information and run out of it's calibrated tolerances, resulting in poor engine performance, increased fuel consumption, poor emissions and potential engine damage or premature injector failure.
@@RyansWorkshopHello ryan. Thanks very much for taking the time to reply, from the sticker in the boot the engine code is bks. Its a 3.0 v6 tdi touareg 2006
Hi, sorry for the delayed reply, the high pressure pipe setting will still be 25NM, the injector clamp torque setting depends on what type of clamp it is, if it's the newer single bolt type clamp like in the video it's 6NM + 90 degrees, if it's the older type that has 2 nuts on the clamp (one each side of the injector) the torque setting will be 10NM, also with the older type clamp it is recommended that the clamp is replaced as well, hope this helps.
@@RyansWorkshop hello ryan. Thanks again for taking the time to reply I really appreciate it. Could I ask you one more thing? How do you find out torque settings for a specific vehicle? I'm wanting to replace the timing chains/guides on my touareg. Is there such a thing a a workshop manual? Thankyou
Haynes manuals are a good source for specific vehicles. haynes.com/en-gb/volkswagen/touareg/2002-2006-32-petrol-42896?gclid=CjwKCAjwh5qLBhALEiwAioods7BwH92rlgMe1-JVop0AULGSoMib-_VGeLOaxzxwSgq_OAgrtrLG5RoCUM4QAvD_BwE
Hello mr . I did clean all injektors and startes The car, but after drivin it 10 meters it turn off and vant start, it cranks but no start help please ?? Can u contact me please ?
Would bad o-ring or seals be a reason for fume smell from the engine bay? I have no obvious exhaust leak but can smell fumes in the cabin and under the bonnet when the engine is running
You can really help the future success of my channel by clicking the link below to subscribe, it's free and I will greatly appreciate it!
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My actual bolt broke on the inside. Do you know what to use to take it out?
I've got the dreaded injector seal issue with an A7 C7 and this has explained exactly how to solve without spending a tonne at a garage! Thanks a bunch!
Glad I could help
@@RyansWorkshop Quick question if you get time to answer - Can I change the seals on one bad injector, or will all seals need replacing? Thanks
@@tomshaw2192 It's ok to do one but if one is shot then the others are usually pretty worn too! And much better to get ahead of the game as then there is a lot less cleaning involved!
Thanks Ryan for this very informative video! I’ve been quoted hundreds to do this at a garage but I’ve just ordered the parts in your description. I have the other tools already and I am going to do this myself. Keep putting more videos like this, top man!
Thank you, just glad I could help
Hi Ryan, I’ve just fitter my injector kit using your video and it took approx 2 hours. I bought the kits from your list apart from the slide hammer and instead bought a cheaper one on eBay which claimed to have adaptors for Bosch injectors. Unfortunately the adapter didn’t fit (right thread size just flange fowled with injector housing). I then came up with a solution to use a slim 13mm spanner and insert into side of injector and work it loose that way (rotate clockwise and anti-clockwise). So all in all a good job and a lot of money saved! I’ve also documented the condition of the old seals and injectors. In my case it was cylinder 1 and 6 which were the worst and most leaking. The other injectors were clean and shiny upon removal. Once again, many thanks for your video!
Very informative and detailed explanation. I love how you've made it easy to follow. Great work
Thank you.
Thank you for your help with coding these injectors, I'm fitting two on my friends A6 C7 at weekend and I'm still finding my way around vcds. I have a snapon solus but find vcds on Audi alot better but never coded with it. Great channel 👍
Thank you, glad I could help
Can you help with a link for the VCDS for my 2012 Cayenne please? Cheers
The thread on top of the injector is standard metric. I found a nut in my toolbox which we welded to the slide hammer, worked a treat. Saves buying an expensive “injector removal kit”
Thanks for the quick ...clear ...concise presentation and advice....
Thank you
Great video going to follow this as can't get in a garage to do the work anytime soon. Thanks
Thank you, hope you have success.
Great vid. Just what I was looking for. Cheers mate.
Thanks, glad I could help
The SAE term for the bolts is Torque to Yield, abbreviated TTY. You can actually reuse them a few times. The stress-strain curve for those bolts allows for quite a bit of stretch before they fail. We actually allowed critical fasteners (head bolts, main bolts, etc.) to be used 3 times for the engine I worked on. But, they are also inexpensive, so if available, I wouldn't shy away from re-using them. Thanks for posting the link to the kit. Here in NA, the kits that come when you order from virtually all of the vendors is incorrect, it is for a gasoline (petrol if you prefer) engine. And most don't have a picture so you don't know. So just a heads up to anyone looking. If in a bind, Elring 767140 is the copper washer/seal. Be sure you clean up the injector bore, BTW, or they will fail again quickly. 2 months to be precise :(
I suspect audi sent me the wrong injector hold down bolt for my TDI. It was a bit longer than the one that was in it and it bottomed out and snapped off in the head. Are the FSI injector bolts longer?
You made it look soo easy i might risk it and do it my self 😅😆😆
You would save a lot of money 😉
Best to ‘anneal’ the copper washers. Heat until cherry red with a map gas torch, then dunk in water. Clean any scale off with wet n dry.
Thank you for the video. Does anyone know in which of the 2 ways the copper seals go? Thank you
With the bevelled edge down
Hi, just watched the video, very good and very useful as I remove all the injectors for new copper seals rubber seals and the stretch bolts, but my question is next: the system it's self bleeding of any air at the first start of the engine if they will stay removed for couple of days? Many thanks.
Thank you, and yes they will self bleed as they are under high pressure, it will take a little longer to start on the first start up afterwards while the air is removed through the injectors, my vehicle started perfect on the second attempt.
Great resource. Is it required to use an injector seat cutter?
A seat cutter can be used but is not always necessary.
Good video thanks. Shouldn't people always warm engines
Thank you, some say you should but I've never seen any benefit from doing it personally
What order do they number the cylinders?
Is it 1 2 3 on the drivers side and 4 5 6 on the passenger side?
If you skip to 4:03 minutes in the video, I walk you through which cylinder is which
Thank you, very helpful...
Thank you, glad I could help
Excellent video, Ryan. Just one question for you: I suspect one of more of my injectors are faulty (engine running irregularly and smell of diesel in the car). But: how do I find out which one(s) is/are faulty? I do have an EBD2 tool but it's not showing any error codes. Any suggestions? Thx!
It sounds like you may have leaking seals which will eventually damage the injectors, you can sometimes identify which ones are leaking by hearing a chuffing sound and sometimes a strong diesel odour and puff of smoke, but the best way to identify would be to remove the injectors, if you have a leaking seal it would be a good idea to change all of the seals because if 1 has gone more Will likely follow.
great videos man!! keep it up ! :)
Thank you 😊
What an amazing video.
Thank you
excellent video, thank you for sharing!
Thanks for watching
Great work, Thank you!
Thank you
When cleaning the injector locating hole if there is carbon build up how do you get carbon out? Will in not go onto the cylinder? Also this will be the same if you need to cut the sealing face for injector. What do you recommend?
I would say the best way is to adapt a hoover pipe with a smaller hose attached to the end, using tape to hold it together should be sufficient as long as it's airtight.
Great video,Thanks!
Thanks 👍
Nice 👍 Tks a lot is it the same with CVUA motors ?
It should be the same if not very similar as this engine is just a later generation with a second turbo, I believe the injectors are the same just with a different calibration setting.
Hello there, thank you for the video. Does the fuel system need to be depressurised first before work commencing? Thanks again.
No, the system doesn't need to be depressurised as there will only be pressure when the pump is running, it pressure releases when you turn the engine off.
Ok great! Thank you very much! I've ordered the seal kit from the link you supplied, it will take a month to get here in Australia. Itching to get this fixed on my sq5!
Hi, another quick question. Is the thread on the injectors m14 1.5 pitc thread? Just making sure I buy the right slide hammer set for the job. Thanks!
Thank you your detailed video. Question regarding the O ring installation: service procedures told we should use T10377 assembly sleeve for O ring installation. (Well for the CRCA engine but I think it is the same) Do you think it is necessary or is it ok just put the new one on to the injector without using this tool?
Hello, I don't really think its necessary to use the tool, you should be fine without it, just take care when installing.
How often do you require to do this ? Once let's say in 6 years or 200.000km or ? Thanks for reply
It could be beneficial to do that to prevent a bigger problem in the future.
Great video! I couldn't find any information on the internet about 2015 Q5 CPNB fitment. Do you have any information for a compatible seal kit that fits CPNB engine? Thanks!
Hi, from this information I see that this engine code has the same Bosch Piezo injectors which will have the same seals as in the video ebay.us/b7WOW4 this listing doesn't display all engine codes that the seals are compatible with, I know this because my engine code wasn't listed but they were the correct seals anyway, hope this helps.
Hi there, I have just removed number 6 injector in a 2014 Audi SQ5 TDI and noticed that it didn't have a copper washer. Does that sound correct to you? I am not sure if someone has previously has the injectors out, but wanted to me sure that I have the right seals when it gets reinstalled.
That doesn't sound right, it should have a copper washer to create the seal!
Do you have a reference of the cleaner to use inside the location of the injectors ? Tks
In my case I used an isopropyl rubbing alcohol (IPA solvent) because I didn't want to use anything too harsh, it helped to rub the carbon away just fine.
Aren’t there any cheaper slide hammers to fit these same injectors? Bit pricey for one time use. Thanks.
brilliant video Ryan, I need your input please,
I recently needed to replace parts in my audi V6 tdi which needed the high pressure rail being removed. I did put it back together fine but after getting it to start I feen like the engine developed and miss or like a fuel starvation ( to briefly explain it) I drove the cat about 100 miles and it kinda feels like if develops a miss or fuel starvation as soon as there is a bit of torque on the engine. I get the feeling the pump/rail is not feeding enough diesel through to the motor. Not saying that's what is is, its just how the symptoms look like. I did clean the diesel filter. but am looking at other areas to look at in my quest to trace the issue.
Hi do you do repairs on cars, i need the seals changed on my 3.0 audi a7 and trying to get a harage to do it is a nightmare. Happy to do stuff but not 100% on this one. Im close to Northampton
To be honest I'm a bit tied up with other projects at the moment, hence no videos recently, so I would struggle to find the time at the moment, but it is something I'll be doing in the future
@@RyansWorkshop thanks for the response and no worries, if you change your mind happy to pay or in free labour if you need assistance with any other projects. If not no worries and thanks again for least getting back to me, much appreciated.
Hi, I've been told I may have an injector/injectors fault, can I ask what your symptoms/fault was, which made you change the injectors
My engine completely cut out as 2 injectors had failed.
Hi mate which solvent cleaner did you use? Thanks.
The one I used was Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) from Action Can
Is it more or less the same for the CGQB?
Yes it is
Thank you for such an informative video! By chance, do the new injectors or seal kit come with new stretch bolts? If not, where might one find the correct bolts? Thank you
Thanks. The seal kit comes with new bolts, O-rings and copper washers, the injector's themselves won't come with the bolts, just a copper washer as far as I know.
Is there a special tool for removing the plastic injector pipe lines....
No, it just requires a small flat head screwdriver to assist in lifting the clip upwards, then all you need to do is lift the pipe off of the injector.
Thanks for the reply, ps I should of asked as well, the small Injector chamber caps that stop debris from falling into the cylinder when cleaning, is there a link to buying the correct size because I've read stories/ mixed reviews of the kit you used in your video ie, them falling through / the flange isn't wide enough, is the correct diameter 7.5mm OR 8mm, for my audi a7 2013 engine code CLAA ....ps loved the video....
Question I just installed injectors in my 2014 s4 and when I try to code them on the drop box I don’t have that option like it shows in your video
Thx😉
👍
how much would this roughly cost if an honest mechanic did it? my mechanic quoted 11k australian dollars/5.7k british pounds for the job, is that a fair price?
Not sure on the exact cost but that sounds way over priced
I might sound foolish but is this the same engine as a Q7 3.0 TDI , I’m having a small fuel leak on the 4-5-6 side. I’m trying to narrow the problem down. Any information is helpful thanks.
It all depends on the year and specific model, but it will most likely be similar anyway
link to njector puller slide hammer dosent work
Thanks for letting me know, I've just updated the link, so now should be working 👍
Whare are the links for the wire brush injector hole cleaning set?
The links are in the description
@RyansWorkshop ah sorry yes got them thankyou Ryan. You said its a funny size thread ontop of the injector to attatch the slide hammer, does the fitting in your kit have a size on? Im just thinking just buy the correct fitting instead of a whole slide hammer kit
Does anybody know what is the injector thread diameter and pitch. I want to create slide hammer by myself
what will happen if don't update the new coding?
If the injector code isn't entered into the ECU, it will receive incorrect information and run out of it's calibrated tolerances, resulting in poor engine performance, increased fuel consumption, poor emissions and potential engine damage or premature injector failure.
Hi. I've a 2006 3.0 v6 tdi touareg could you tell me all the torque settings? Thanks
Hi, to be honest I would need the engine code to obtain that information!
@@RyansWorkshopHello ryan. Thanks very much for taking the time to reply, from the sticker in the boot the engine code is bks. Its a 3.0 v6 tdi touareg 2006
Hi, sorry for the delayed reply, the high pressure pipe setting will still be 25NM, the injector clamp torque setting depends on what type of clamp it is, if it's the newer single bolt type clamp like in the video it's 6NM + 90 degrees, if it's the older type that has 2 nuts on the clamp (one each side of the injector) the torque setting will be 10NM, also with the older type clamp it is recommended that the clamp is replaced as well, hope this helps.
@@RyansWorkshop hello ryan. Thanks again for taking the time to reply I really appreciate it. Could I ask you one more thing? How do you find out torque settings for a specific vehicle? I'm wanting to replace the timing chains/guides on my touareg. Is there such a thing a a workshop manual? Thankyou
Haynes manuals are a good source for specific vehicles. haynes.com/en-gb/volkswagen/touareg/2002-2006-32-petrol-42896?gclid=CjwKCAjwh5qLBhALEiwAioods7BwH92rlgMe1-JVop0AULGSoMib-_VGeLOaxzxwSgq_OAgrtrLG5RoCUM4QAvD_BwE
Hello mr . I did clean all injektors and startes The car, but after drivin it 10 meters it turn off and vant start, it cranks but no start help please ??
Can u contact me please ?
Would bad o-ring or seals be a reason for fume smell from the engine bay? I have no obvious exhaust leak but can smell fumes in the cabin and under the bonnet when the engine is running
Yes that sounds like a classic symptom of a leaking copper seal on the bottom of the injector