My father passed, it was a wave that took me under. Today, i have accepted and life is calm again. I am always looking for the next wave. Life is like a wave, we cant stop it, but go with the flow or crash and try again and gain.. LIfe.. life is in the sets….
This is so beautiful! I know what it's like to get "caught inside," and the most important thing that I learned from it, is to always remain "calm," and maintain a collective state of mind. That is one of the most valuable lessons that I've learned in life, and it came through surfing...
Yeah, I used to surf Hermosa brake water in the seventies. You and Mike thought you ruled the waves. Kicked the younged of us out. We never got to surf while you were around. Thanks for that experience!
*The School of hard knocks....Cool!* *Great Teachers.* *Hope you meant "Thanks" and it made you a more accomplished Surfer.* *That kind of shit did wonders for me.* *Many of the top pros, and heavy locals , became my good friends, and as a result; I traveled to exclusive spots, and surfed the kind, unreal, and death defying waves.* *Simply; Have respect, and let your surfing do the talking.*
I think Gerry could be one of those hypnotists. Don't let him get your attn too long ... In FL, it's ALWAYS SMALL and there's ALWAYS a LOOOOONNNNNGGGG LUUULLL. Boy, it sucks. There's nothing we can do ... See what I did there. All the negative.
So nice Gerry, thanks for your big advise 👍 Just b/4 U went in Punta Rocas Surf competition 1974....as U were down there by the Rocks..... I was there too & w/my broken english a 16 yr old kid I was, had the pleasure to meet U & told U, it is your turn,, have a good time, catch big waves. I ask U if U needed wax......U said..." it's OK ". 👌 U gave us a Surf Lesson & U even rode a huge wave on your Chest.... I was up on the Hill w/all the amigos......clapping hands. Thanks...! . . . . . . . . . Andrés
I have noting but love and respect for this man...BUT I am curious how he got involved with making those terrible soft tops that are polluting garages everywhere..not line ups..because they are the worst boards ever...??
*Ssshhh!... don't tell anyone, but Californians did -> (Phil Edwards).* *But you know what; NO ONE surfed it as effortlessly as Jerry.* *He didn't "Rip it", he became part of the wave, flowed with the power, and made it look easy.*
My father passed, it was a wave that took me under. Today, i have accepted and life is calm again. I am always looking for the next wave. Life is like a wave, we cant stop it, but go with the flow or crash and try again and gain.. LIfe.. life is in the sets….
Thank you God for sending Gerry and all others surfer's and people with soul and dignity.,...
Someone knows where can be finded this full film?
Crazy that I happened to stumble on this video on a different site when I think I needed it most.
This is so beautiful! I know what it's like to get "caught inside," and the most important thing that I learned from it, is to always remain "calm," and maintain a collective state of mind. That is one of the most valuable lessons that I've learned in life, and it came through surfing...
damn glad to know Jerry as a fellow Oregonian now...I share your surfer beliefs jerry.
Mahalo brother.
Surfers of my generation all idolized Gerry Lopez. We all wanted to be just like him--Master of pipeline!
The Zen of Gerry…
*Gerry Lopez is f#$%ing Cool!*
*The Master of Flow*
Love hearing this and love the wisdom from this LEGEND! "Periods of calm we can regain our position."
Yeah, I used to surf Hermosa brake water in the seventies. You and Mike thought you ruled the waves. Kicked the younged of us out. We never got to surf while you were around. Thanks for that experience!
*The School of hard knocks....Cool!*
*Great Teachers.*
*Hope you meant "Thanks" and it made you a more accomplished Surfer.*
*That kind of shit did wonders for me.*
*Many of the top pros, and heavy locals , became my good friends, and as a result; I traveled to exclusive spots, and surfed the kind, unreal, and death defying waves.*
*Simply; Have respect, and let your surfing do the talking.*
my best!
Just keep paddling.💙
ARIGATOU.ARIGATOU.
" keep paddling "
thief. and archer
Much love master
I think Gerry could be one of those hypnotists. Don't let him get your attn too long ... In FL, it's ALWAYS SMALL and there's ALWAYS a LOOOOONNNNNGGGG LUUULLL. Boy, it sucks. There's nothing we can do ...
See what I did there.
All the negative.
So nice Gerry, thanks for your big advise 👍
Just b/4 U went in Punta Rocas Surf competition 1974....as U were down there by the Rocks..... I was there too & w/my broken english a 16 yr old kid I was, had the pleasure to meet U & told U, it is your turn,, have a good time, catch big waves. I ask U if U needed wax......U said..." it's OK ". 👌 U gave us a Surf Lesson & U even rode a huge wave on your Chest.... I was up on the Hill w/all the amigos......clapping hands. Thanks...! . . . . . . . . . Andrés
I have noting but love and respect for this man...BUT I am curious how he got involved with making those terrible soft tops that are polluting garages everywhere..not line ups..because they are the worst boards ever...??
Thank you uncle Gary aloha🤙🤙🤙🤙
...Mr. Zen... nicely put...
Confirmo :-) Surf the Life :-)
When will Hawaiians admit it was the Australians who first started riding pipeline. 👹
*Ssshhh!... don't tell anyone, but Californians did -> (Phil Edwards).*
*But you know what; NO ONE surfed it as effortlessly as Jerry.*
*He didn't "Rip it", he became part of the wave, flowed with the power, and made it look easy.*
Exactly! 🤗
Fantastic hero
Great analagies...
keep the faith
Thank you
Ty Gerry
Mahalo Gerry for your mana'o......this is living the dream