Oi, legal seu vídeo, só uma pequena crítica, que vc deveria usar os dois "cams" que são os dois parafusos que ficam na parte superior do porta faca, com eles vc deveria pressionar a faca contra a régua, não é aconselhável usar o elevador da faca para fazer isto. Foi por isso que a gravação não ficou boa e vc teve de colocar calço de papel mesmo depois de girar o parafuso do excêntrico no máximo.
so many extra moves... what are lever washers for?it was necessary to put the paper under the knife before screwing the bolts, and lower it on the Marzan with lever washers . not a chain, technical documentation should be read =))
@@cyberkatev2.773 .....?!...My name is Marconi. I'm not the guy in the video in question. But I'm also a cutter and I thought the guy in the video was wrong.
@@MrQuirinus I'm Jack I thought so, you can see that the guy in the video a little more savvy , especially in the replacement of the knives . paper is pushed under the Marzan by novices!
@@MrQuirinus I, too, Carver, experience I have already more 12-15 years on machines with program governance where the 11 , the first years I, too, so same obtuse as he =)) now it's funny!
@Michael Crook. If the knife has been incorrectly ground e.g. hollow/scooped in the middle, you have to pack the cutting stick accordingly. On the older Polar cutters, you can level the knife easily. The Polar knife change system uses a knife depth gauge including an extra 3mm. "safety margin". So you can pre - set the knife carrier to the new blade depth. Then after adjusting the knife carrier link arm and turning /exchanging the cutting stick, when the new knife is stopped at bottom dead centre, it is 3mm above the machine table. At this position, the best way to level the knife is to slacken the gib lever at the gearbox end of the cutter. Then rock the lever back & forth, while turning the link arm for the knife adjustment clockwise/inwards. The movement in the lever will gradually stop as both ends of the knife touch and then levels out along the cutting stick. Fully tighten the gib lever, lock nuts on the link arm to finger tight. Return the knife to top dead centre. You can then try a test cut on a single sheet of paper. If OK, then tighten the locknuts on the link arm. This method usually works every time. The Polar cutter here has a "front (of machine) knife change" system and I guess that the knife level and fine adjustment are accessed from the front of the knife carrier.
@Michael Crook. Sometimes a decent knife grinding shop is hard to find! You have to take what you can get. In my experience, if you can afford to invest in tungsten carbide tipped (TCT) knives then the recommended grinding shop will have the best machinery and operatives to re - grind your knives. TCT knives are usually sharpened and dressed to perfection.
Not the safest working practice for this knife change, standing the blades on there end in there cases, never understand the reason knife bolts are tightened so tight with a tommy bar.
@Michael Crook. The knife has to be pulled up tight against the inside face of the knife carrier so that it is parallel to the backgauge right across the cutting width of the machine. And sometimes - if a knife is ground/sharpened incorrectly, it can warp/bow out of a true flat shape. I think that some of the new generation Polar cutters have a pre - set torque wrench for the knife bolts supplied with the machine toolkit. Begs the question - are you cutter operator?
@@markmiwurdz202 I was a operator for many years,across a wide variety of guillotines, Como,Wholenberg,Schneider and Polar auto trim, until I moved on to Bobst die cut/embossing and hot foil stamping BMA. Now retired.
Great Rising brother you have done nice video. This is Mahendra from bangalore India. Can pls share your email address I have some doubts about the paper cutting machine programing
Oi, legal seu vídeo, só uma pequena crítica, que vc deveria usar os dois "cams" que são os dois parafusos que ficam na parte superior do porta faca, com eles vc deveria pressionar a faca contra a régua, não é aconselhável usar o elevador da faca para fazer isto. Foi por isso que a gravação não ficou boa e vc teve de colocar calço de papel mesmo depois de girar o parafuso do excêntrico no máximo.
so many extra moves... what are lever washers for?it was necessary to put the paper under the knife before screwing the bolts, and lower it on the Marzan with lever washers . not a chain, technical documentation should be read =))
I fully agree!
@@MrQuirinus I understand it was a long time ago and you are already doing everything faster
@@cyberkatev2.773 .....?!...My name is Marconi. I'm not the guy in the video in question. But I'm also a cutter and I thought the guy in the video was wrong.
@@MrQuirinus I'm Jack I thought so, you can see that the guy in the video a little more savvy , especially in the replacement of the knives . paper is pushed under the Marzan by novices!
@@MrQuirinus I, too, Carver, experience I have already more 12-15 years on machines with program governance where the 11 , the first years I, too, so same obtuse as he =)) now it's funny!
Should not need to pack under the cutting stick if the knife is levelled correctly.
@Michael Crook. If the knife has been incorrectly ground e.g. hollow/scooped in the middle, you have to pack the cutting stick accordingly.
On the older Polar cutters, you can level the knife easily. The Polar knife change system uses a knife depth gauge including an extra 3mm. "safety margin". So you can pre - set the knife carrier to the new blade depth. Then after adjusting the knife carrier link arm and turning /exchanging the cutting stick, when the new knife is stopped at bottom dead centre, it is 3mm above the machine table. At this position, the best way to level the knife is to slacken the gib lever at the gearbox end of the cutter. Then rock the lever back & forth, while turning the link arm for the knife adjustment clockwise/inwards. The movement in the lever will gradually stop as both ends of the knife touch and then levels out along the cutting stick. Fully tighten the gib lever, lock nuts on the link arm to finger tight. Return the knife to top dead centre. You can then try a test cut on a single sheet of paper. If OK, then tighten the locknuts on the link arm. This method usually works every time.
The Polar cutter here has a "front (of machine) knife change" system and I guess that the knife level and fine adjustment are accessed from the front of the knife carrier.
@@markmiwurdz202
Send it back or find a new company to carry out re sharpening correctly.
@Michael Crook. Sometimes a decent knife grinding shop is hard to find! You have to take what you can get. In my experience, if you can afford to invest in tungsten carbide tipped (TCT) knives then the recommended grinding shop will have the best machinery and operatives to re - grind your knives. TCT knives are usually sharpened and dressed to perfection.
@@markmiwurdz202
Always worked with
TCT tipped knives, not sure when they arrived on the screen but the late 70’s I was using them.
😍
Not the safest working practice for this knife change, standing the blades on there end in there cases, never understand the reason knife bolts are tightened so tight with a tommy bar.
@Michael Crook. The knife has to be pulled up tight against the inside face of the knife carrier so that it is parallel to the backgauge right across the cutting width of the machine. And sometimes - if a knife is ground/sharpened incorrectly, it can warp/bow out of a true flat shape. I think that some of the new generation Polar cutters have a pre - set torque wrench for the knife bolts supplied with the machine toolkit. Begs the question - are you cutter operator?
@@markmiwurdz202
I was a operator for many years,across a wide variety of guillotines, Como,Wholenberg,Schneider and Polar auto trim, until I moved on to Bobst die cut/embossing and hot foil stamping BMA. Now retired.
Great Rising brother you have done nice video. This is Mahendra from bangalore India. Can pls share your email address I have some doubts about the paper cutting machine programing