I used your whole CD4E video series to rebuild an '08 Escape transmission (first time I have ever attempted a trans rebuild). Worked flawlessly afterwards! Thanks for all you do for anyone searching for knowledge.
I overhauled a cd4e using your video. The valve body update was key. My forward drum was broken just exactly as you described, broke off at the snap ring groove. I got a new am drum loaded for about 140. Basic overhaul kit, bushing kit, convertor, filter, shift kit total about 425 into it. Bought this 02 escape as is from another tech in the shop for 500. I am a dealer tech, we never do Trans overhaul. Your video is awesome, gave me the info and confidence I needed. It came out perfect. Thank you, JOE GAGATCH, HENDRICK LEXUS, CHARLOTTE, NC
Thanks so much for your instructional video, step by step, I have learned alot by viewing it over and over, I'm not a transmission guy, more of an engine repair mechanic, and knowing how much it is to rebuild a transmission, I figured it's time to learn, especially when you own the vehicle and want to improve on the parts you put in.
You're a wonderful person on rebuilding units ,I been a rebuilding for 30 years and I have learned a lot from you're videos. Thanks for having RUclips videos. I watched most of them. 👍 Nice keep up the good work , would love to see you in person.
Muchas gracias Hiram por ensenarnos como construir this transmission. Mirando sus videos he aprendido mucho y me ha dado la seguridad de como construir esta transmission muchísimas gracias Hiram. Dios lo bendiga.
Good video Pal. A couple of comments:Turbine speed sensor, we used to price replacing these in with every rebuild because they usually got destroyed when trying to get them out of the rusty pump casing, or when removing the gearbox from the car. I don’t recall the moulded pistons putting up that much of a fight, I’m sure you could wiggle them in, or give them a nudge in with a feeler blade. We only ever used to replace the shift solenoid pack if the plug was black, if it was light brown we would send them for testing and refit if good. We had plenty of drums blow out on these units, but never modified the valve bodies with shift kits, we would overhaul the valve body and free off any sticking valves. I made a couple of clear plastic plates with drill holes in which I would bolt to the main body and blow the valve plugs out using air pressure. We always put the drum blowing out to there being not enough material in the drum after the circlip grove. It’s interesting that the root cause of this might have been a worn valve body. I always fancied designing a tool to allow replacing the 2/4 band with the box still in the car, but I never got around to it.
Exelente explicación gracias por pasar este tipo de videos son muy constructivos para nosotros los mecánicos aficionados a las trasmiciones automáticas mis respetos a estos señores por regalar parte de sus conocimientos
Man alive, if I had it, I'd pay a kings ransom to apprentice in transmission rebuilding under you. BTW, very nice touch with the parking pawl linkage at 10:00. Good way to keep us all on our toes.
Nice Video work! About to disassemble my CD4e I got from a junkyard with a 30day guarantee onto a 2005 Mercury Marinier(escape) that is slipping and hard shifting..
I don't know if this helps but most of the 4L60E bearings go in with the back side (or the flat side) facing up. Also if you look closely many of them can only go one way. As for the bushings a bushing driver set really helps. But a little home made ingenuity will work too. It is a good idea to replace all the bushings on the 60s. As you know they hold everything on the proper geometric centers.
friend good day for faser exchange this filter have to disassemble the whole exchange of the vehicle , my car and a Ford Mondeo year 95 with exchange CD4E like this . Thank you friend, and much success to you and I love your work
Hi. Really great videos. It's definitely appreciated to have these videos. I've been rebuilding my CD4E transmission over the last few months on weekends. I received it disassembled. The only part missing was the speedometer gear. A couple of bearing assemblies had broke/shattered and a several of the gears were chewed up. So, I've replaced everything that was damaged with new/used parts, while also utilizing a full rebuild kit (plus bearings). All the internal parts are back together, but when I go to put the case halves together, there is approximately a 1/16" uniform gap, before tightening any bolts. (Note this excludes the speedometer gear issue below). So, maybe that is intended for snugness, but in the video, it looked like the halves fit flush. I've reassembled it a few times, and it is always the same. So, *first question*, is a slight gap before tightening acceptable? My second issue is that the speedometer gear I received, seems too tall to work. That is, there is no shelf for the bearing to rest against, to keep the gear from rubbing directly against the inside of the case (with the bearing and spacer in place). The assembly looks *identical* to the speedometer gear (bearing slightly recessed in the speedometer gear). Also, I've precisely measured the distance, and there is simply no way it could fit between the two case halves as it would be installed. Without knowing what the original speedometer gear looked liked, its confusing. I haven't found an alternative part listed that would seem to work. I'm half tempted just to shave 5/32" from the thickness of the gear and be done with it. Any advice would be helpful. Also, if anyone knows a good forum where questions like this are answered, I'd appreciate knowing. Thanks.
Cómo está mi estimado? te saludo desde Ecuador, he disfrutado de todos tus videos y me gustaría que me ayudes con una información. ..porque los Ford Escape ultimamente la caja se destruye los rodamientos en donde va el sprag y por consiguiente se destruye los planetarios....y otra cosa aca en Ecuador por mas que compre repuestos originales Ford nunca vienen completos en repuestos como usted indica.....gracias por su ayuda y siga adelante con su extraordinario trabajo de los videos....Atte Jerry Quito- Ecuador
After watching your videos and reading the shop manual I rebuilt the cd4e transmission. Is it necessary to replace the servo and is there any reprogramming of the PCM. Thanks you in advance for all the help.
Seems awfully rough with that aluminum housing on a steel bench, still love it. Fixed an 08 escape thanks to your video! Great job! I don't do transmissions every day so what do I know?!? :)
I found your videos very helpful during my rebuild. Perhaps I missed it, but I did not see you take any measurements (clutch clearance, runout, ect...) . Maybe that was done off camera? If I missed it, could you direct me to where you do that? If not, please consider doing a future video showing how that's done.
Hello. Thanks for this video. I buy Mondeo with this transmission with only 51.000 km few days ago. Like I can see is there filter inside and imposible to change if I just changing oil. Is there any reccomentadion when to change this filter if even. I will change oil now, because the car it was in garage last 7 years... I am sure that you know best what is the optimal mileage to change the oil in these CD4E gearboxes for best durability. Thank you again for uploading this video and any kind of quick answer in advance.
I lost the old servo on the highway, so I purchased all three to try. Which should I try first, and what am I looking for to test the servo; slow shifting ? Does the servo come with a new spacer ? I did find the old cap, clip ring, and spring. The techie told me they do not sell the clip rings, so I'll use the old one. If they don't supply a new spacer, how thick is it ? I can machine a new one.
Unfortunately, when I went to pull the pump out. The drum came with it after putting everything back. I still don't have any pump. Ing. Is there a special way to align the drum back in it
Hiram, good informational videos. I think it would great info if you would do a video on fluids. All the types +4, Mercon V, LV Dex VI, F, Matic S/K/D etc, etc. The internet tells me there is many factors that goes into a ATF, shift characteristics, lubricity, heat transfer yada yada. Some people even "blend" different types to get a certain shift feel. Basically asking if using the wrong fluid will cause serious harm or should I just believe the R&D that the manufacturers have done?
Hi, I just wanted to say first off that this four-part series on the CD4E transmission that you have done is terrific. I know it's an old video but it really helped me to understand the transmission I'm working on currently as I'm more of an engine guy. Can you tell me the likely issue with my transmission, also the CD4E in a Mariner? Symptoms are these: When it's been sitting a while and cooled off, you start it and immediately put it in Reverse, it takes a good few seconds to engage and then you have maybe ten seconds to reverse to where you want before you feel it let go again and then you have to let it sit and cool off again. As for drive, again you have to wait a few seconds for it to engage. I'm not sure how long drive will go before it lets go again. Also in drive it whines or has a sound maybe like metal teeth barely nicking together as they spin past each other, especially when trying to move the weight of the vehicle or just holding the brake and the gas at the same time. I have checked the 2 4 band, the pump, the cooling lines and oil cooler. It's doesn't appear to be leaking externally. The fluid is not discolored and (in my opinion) doesn't smell burnt. My last two ideas are the shift solenoids and the torque converter. I greatly appreciate your time if you even see this after so many years and really hope you can save me some time. Sorry for the long comment.
Mine did the same thing, I tore the filter media from the intake hole below the valve body. It looks like fishing string and then installed an external filter. I didn't have to remove the transmission that way! Drives great now!
During my air check, everything engages as it should, but only the servo and low reverse piston hold enough pressure to push the air nozzle away when I let off the trigger. Is this normal? I can definitely hear each individual piston apply and checked that they apply on the pump before installation in the case. Advice is appreciated.
In my Mazda Tribute 2.3 4x2 automatic transmission, shifting gears no longer works. Whenever I shift to "D," the car does not drive as if it is in "N." What could be the problem with the transmission?
Your CD4E videos have helped tremendously. If you reply to questions, I have a few. I’m getting cross leaks when I air test, to varying degrees on all circuits. I installed new sealing rings, and my direct drum inner hub looks smooth and ungrooved. New bushings. Used STP on sealing rings and bushings. I get enough pressure at 40 psi to get clutches to apply, but plenty of air leaks past sealing rings into adjacent circuits. Should it be nearly air-tight? Or is that only possible with ATF? Also is it necessary for the converter/cooler circuit to be air tight when I hold thumb over hole at end of support shaft? I get some leakage out pump intake and exhaust ports when I pressurize this circuit. I flat sanded pump halves on thick glass and used right gasket but it did not help much. Thanks for your work.
that beautiful work , congratulations my friend, my car has this exchange ford Mondeo model year 95, when re hitch or front he 's a jerk and not walking or backward and not forward. give me a tip? I am mechanic of electronic injection sites but to taking up cambios , my exchange and CD4E
and i repeat everyone hit like, and click on the ad that coems up on the video, it sends money to hiram and helps him get mroe views!! when someone searches CD4E transmission we want his to come up first!!!
can I just pull the pump from the outside without any issues to replace rusted out pump case. all videos I have found have the pump installed then the internals. transmission is working fine in all aspects expected hole in the pump case. I have new pump already
good day sir hiram, im from philippines have a problem in my cd4e. finnish rebuilding it. the problem is when its cold it will engage on 1st gear only. no reverse and 2nd 3rd 4th. but after 10 minutes of warmup. everything is alright.
Hey Hiram: Im the guy that asked if you could do a CD4E viedo a few months back... Great viedo! I'm a bit confused with the valve body however...Diagnostics showed either the line pressure PWM solenoid as bad I cant remember which one now, but I am confused as to where these are located as I did not see any in your assembly. The tranny shifts through all gears but it wont hold in any of them but hunts around shifting in and out of 2 3 4 gears.
Good video , thank you. I wonder if I can replace the filter on my transmission only. I have the transmission out of the car. Is it possible to open it up and just replace the filter without disassemblying those rings, differential etc ?
Just did my cd4e rebuild on a ford escape 2008 following this videos, but now transmission won't shift with engine hot, it works just fine with engine cold right after start, how can I correct this?
hey, i have gotten an issue where the main assembly with the clutches won't fully seat and the pump shaft won't protrude, this issue also is causing the assembly to stick in place, the clutches and sprag are removed, the 2-4 piston has been installed already, and my partner had decided when cleaning the case that it was best to use the wire wheel i got for the outside of the case on the inside where the pump seals, instead of waiting for me to get sanding drums for the dremel, so i was unable to sand the groves he made out, he then suggested and i agreed (since there wasn't much other option) to use silicone, so now the pump won't be removable without removing the assembly anyways, what should i do? will removing the 2-4 servo help? i don't have the tool for it, we used C-clamps and the one went through the pump hole, the drum that the band holds is able to spin, i can't really figure out what might be holding it so tightly, it's currently upside down
Buenas amigo, te ago una consulta desde Argentina, tengo esta misma caja en mi auto, de repente se quedo sin trasmisión, como o donde podría obtener el funcionamiento de la caja y si hay forma de probarla ante de colocarla en el auto, desde ya gracias
I had attempted my rebuild and now my truck is locked in park no matter which gear I try to put it into, it just rocks back and forth as if in park. Is it possible that the parking pawl mechanism could have locked into one of the teeth during re-assembly in my situation? I thought I was being extremely careful but who knows. I dread going back in there, gotta take the whole damn truck apart again!
Never mind. I had to go back in there and open it up. Turns out that the differential was not seated properly where the gears meet the outer ring on the case side of the output shaft. Not sure how the hell that happened but I am new at this. I was able to re-seat the case and now it spins. A good test I recommend is to attach the transfer case to the transmission and try to turn the output shaft and make sure it moves freely before re-installation. Would have saved me a ton of time!
Actually, scratch that. I still have the same problem! for whatever reason when I sandwich the case back together the output shaft is locking up again! I don't get it cuz the differential section is fine before torquing down any of the bolts, even just one! Please help! I'll post a video of the problem later on tonight.
Question, replaced solenoid back and put back together and now the transmission will no go into reverse, it goes in drive in selection on the transmission
2007 Ford Escape 3.o v6 Is this the same trans? What noises do the different failures make? Do they all make the same noise? With these transmissions I guess failure is common. Are there upgrades that can be done to preemptively to make it reliable. I like the size of them and am looking at buying one that needs trans work, makes noise in forward and reverse a loud squealing noise at this point.
Ahh, CD4E transmission. I remember it well, especially replacing the coast clutch drum after it had blown the circlip out of its groove and mullered the drum. No valve body update kit out then, that was just when the beige connector solenoid block was coming out to update the brown. Would you replace the bushings on this transmission?
Hi Hiram, I have a 99 Ford Contour SE with the 2.5L and the CD4E automatic transmission and I have some issues with it, first the reverse doesn't engage when i put the car in reverse, it does after i accelerate a little bit, if i dont accelerate the car rolls forward in reverse. Secondly I feel the transmission is not delivering the power the car has to the wheels when taking off, it doesn't stall but it should have more torque. And also sometimes it shifts hard from 1st to 2nd gear driving normally. Thank you, I like your videos and I kinda wanna rebuilt the tranny but I wonder how to remove it from the car.
Здравствуйте! А где можно найти карту доработки пластин гидроблока и до какого диаметра отверстия вы рассверливали? У меня Ford Mondeo 3 2.0l 2007г - есть необходимость доработки гидроблока?
Hiram Before everythink THANK YOU SO MUCH for all your videos i have a question for you. I have a 2003 ford escape and the problem is that doesn't move forward but reverse is working perfect. I wachted all your videos and i would like to do it my selft but i have a hard fealing that is a solenoide problem 1 and 2 gear it was working and now it's just reverse. By the way. Are hispanic ?
Hello Hiram! I have a Ford Contour 99 with CD4E A/T. The problem is in the 3rd gear when is going in 78 to 80 km/h to change in to the 4th gear, the steering snock's (se golpetea y se jalonea) Some times the problem do not appear but in other it does. The oil of the A/T was never changed, so I changed thinking it would solve the problem but only came out 2.5L and stops. In the owner's guide it says is required 8.51L. So I think it was missing oil and I put 5L, start the engine and shift in to all the gear to check the oil level and see if I recover the oil level but the level is exceeds very much. How can I get out so much oil as is possible? Do you think the A/T needs ATF Mercon like in the owner's guide says? Or needs other oil with more viscosity to shift better? The Lucas Transsmision treatment fluid works in this case? I thank you so much for your help
Hi, great video, I'm a Allison Trans builder. My question is I pulled a CD4E out from a 2007 3.0. I found 3 frictions in the low/rev, are the cases the same for the v6 and 4? Can I go back with 3 or can I put 4 in? Also will there be any clutch clearance issues? I don't know if someone put a 4 cyl trans in? Also, it had a 3 gear planet. thanks
I'm not sure about the air check. I don't hear anything buy pressure when you do the air check. Will air "NOT" pass through when doing the air check? I don;t really hear any change in the transmission. What may I have done wrong? I don't want to put this back on the vehicle without knowing. I really appropriate any help.
+Chris Barnes what you should be able to hear is the piston on the servo go from apply (the first hole) to return (the second hole). when he uses air you can barely hear the servo moving. It's just a test to see if the servo lip seal has sealed. :)
Transgo says on their website that this kit can be installed without removing the trans from the car. What type of transmission problem would be corrected by doing just that?
do you have any videos of a 2008 v6 cd4e model of the low reverse sprag assembly I have 4 frictions and two wave washers one wave washer is thinner than the other or any diagrams on this.
How often do the filters clog on my awd 3.0 escape you drive for a little bit and then it looses all gears. After you let it sit for 5 minutes it drives again. I did a reverse trans flush and it drove for 2 days before the problem started again.
@@esteroverde6890 it was a clogged trans filter I pulled out the valve body heated and bent a screw driver ripped and poked holes in the filter. Re assembled and put in an inline filter
@@cronicjohnson THANK YOU SO MUCH. Where in the valve body section is the suction port. I just pulled out the tranny today. I might just replace the filter. Or go your route. Depending on how hard it is to get to it or market filter availability.
I am overhauling a CD4E using your video. Out of a 2002 Escape. We have it all together and before I put the control valve on. Want to test it through the reverse clutch, forward clutch, direct clutch, low/reverse clutch and coast clutch holes with air. I can hear all but the reverse clutch working. When I put air to the reverse clutch I also get air coming out the converter clutch bypass, converter turbine and converter impeller holes. Is this suppose to coming out the other holes? Thanks Al Cassell
i have been watching you videos there really informative you would make a good college lecturer have you had any dealings with bus and coach transmissions
Подскажите пожалуйста как выбрать сервопоршень к cd4e . На одну полоску, на две, или вобще без полосок. У меня в движении он выпал и незнаю какой ставить. Спасибо за ответ.
Hiram, I had a forward drum line pressure problem . I have replaced all the broken parts and installed all new bushing and master kit. Question is when I'm doing the "AIR CHECK@ 40 psi" on the stator alone I have air leaking between stator shaft and the drum. The clutches move and look to be working but the leaks have me at a complete stop until I know for sure what's going on. Will the cut seals close up under fluid pressure? I also notice a small amount of air leeching from between the pump spacer plate and gasket.....but its very small. I have checked the new "used" forward drum by filling it with WD40 to see any leaks with no avail! Should I just buy a new FD and see if that's the magic fix since these drums are a PITA?
I am having the exact same issue you are describing with cross leaks in the sealing rings of the support shaft, and some slight leaks in the pump. I have tried lubing sealing well, spinning drum, new bushings, flat sanding the pump halves, a new gasket, and used both the old and reman drum. I can’t seem to get it to stop the leaks. Did you ever resolve this? Thanks.
Hi Hiram, I have an 2007 Escape with one of these.transmissions, I have a problem, It has a no change up unless I lift the foot off the throttle for a second and then it will change up. I have to do this with each gear change.I put in new turbine shaft input and output sensors and then I put in the transgo shift kit, but it is still doing it, in the old days you would say the kickdown cable was too tight and need to be adjusted, ie too much throttle pressure. when it does this after a bout 5 minutes the OD light starts flashing.. any ideas? Car has only 130,000klm (80000 miles) it has the brown servo pack connector and it looks like someone has put in a reco???? box prior to my buying it, all painted silverfrost..
I used your whole CD4E video series to rebuild an '08 Escape transmission (first time I have ever attempted a trans rebuild). Worked flawlessly afterwards! Thanks for all you do for anyone searching for knowledge.
I overhauled a cd4e using your video. The valve body update was key. My forward drum was broken just exactly as you described, broke off at the snap ring groove. I got a new am drum loaded for about 140. Basic overhaul kit, bushing kit, convertor, filter, shift kit total about 425 into it. Bought this 02 escape as is from another tech in the shop for 500. I am a dealer tech, we never do Trans overhaul. Your video is awesome, gave me the info and confidence I needed. It came out perfect. Thank you, JOE GAGATCH, HENDRICK LEXUS, CHARLOTTE, NC
jgagatch this guy is awesome
Thanks so much for your instructional video, step by step, I have learned alot by viewing it over and over, I'm not a transmission guy, more of an engine repair mechanic, and knowing how much it is to rebuild a transmission, I figured it's time to learn, especially when you own the vehicle and want to improve on the parts you put in.
MASTER BUILDER,with confidence,win win,thanks for the video,with you doing these i don't think so much anymore,thanks HIRAM
Great video Hiram. It's nice to see people take their time and show other how to fix these trans.
It's a joy watching you work. Your knowledge of all the parts is impressive. Thanks!
Excellent video. You really know your stuff. Sure explains why a transmission job is so costly. Lots of work.
You're a wonderful person on rebuilding units ,I been a rebuilding for 30 years and I have learned a lot from you're videos. Thanks for having
RUclips videos. I watched most of them. 👍 Nice keep up the good work , would love to see you in person.
Muchas gracias Hiram por ensenarnos como construir this transmission. Mirando sus videos he aprendido mucho y me ha dado la seguridad de como construir esta transmission muchísimas gracias Hiram. Dios lo bendiga.
Good video Pal. A couple of comments:Turbine speed sensor, we used to price replacing these in with every rebuild because they usually got destroyed when trying to get them out of the rusty pump casing, or when removing the gearbox from the car. I don’t recall the moulded pistons putting up that much of a fight, I’m sure you could wiggle them in, or give them a nudge in with a feeler blade. We only ever used to replace the shift solenoid pack if the plug was black, if it was light brown we would send them for testing and refit if good. We had plenty of drums blow out on these units, but never modified the valve bodies with shift kits, we would overhaul the valve body and free off any sticking valves. I made a couple of clear plastic plates with drill holes in which I would bolt to the main body and blow the valve plugs out using air pressure. We always put the drum blowing out to there being not enough material in the drum after the circlip grove. It’s interesting that the root cause of this might have been a worn valve body. I always fancied designing a tool to allow replacing the 2/4 band with the box still in the car, but I never got around to it.
Exelente explicación gracias por pasar este tipo de videos son muy constructivos para nosotros los mecánicos aficionados a las trasmiciones automáticas mis respetos a estos señores por regalar parte de sus conocimientos
ta chignon im learning to work at different transmissions then before, thanks to your video hiram
Great information Hiram. Thanks for sharing
Man alive, if I had it, I'd pay a kings ransom to apprentice in transmission rebuilding under you. BTW, very nice touch with the parking pawl linkage at 10:00. Good way to keep us all on our toes.
Thanks for sharing information. God bless you
Best of your complete series from teardown to reassembly!
it is so great to see how to assemble
Excellent job!!
Saludos tremendo trabajo reparación transmisión gracias por el vídeo
Hey, Hiram... This is a crazy-good video. Very helpful... Thank you So much for your hard work...
Nice Video work! About to disassemble my CD4e I got from a junkyard with a 30day guarantee onto a 2005 Mercury Marinier(escape) that is slipping and hard shifting..
Greetings from tulua Colombia, learning every dia, good video
Appreciate your videos
very good video I have a Mazda and I did not know where I was in filter thanks
I don't know if this helps but most of the 4L60E bearings go in with the back side (or the flat side) facing up. Also if you look closely many of them can only go one way. As for the bushings a bushing driver set really helps. But a little home made ingenuity will work too. It is a good idea to replace all the bushings on the 60s. As you know they hold everything on the proper geometric centers.
Muy buenos los 4 videos (1 al 4), pero debieran publicarse también en español. Genial Hiram Gutiérrez
This guy is bad ass, I tell all my friends about him
friend good day for faser exchange this filter have to disassemble the whole exchange of the vehicle , my car and a Ford Mondeo year 95 with exchange CD4E like this . Thank you friend, and much success to you and I love your work
Excelente video y muy buena explicacion , gracias por compartir tus conocimientos.......
Thank you.
Hi. Really great videos. It's definitely appreciated to have these videos. I've been rebuilding my CD4E transmission over the last few months on weekends. I received it disassembled. The only part missing was the speedometer gear. A couple of bearing assemblies had broke/shattered and a several of the gears were chewed up. So, I've replaced everything that was damaged with new/used parts, while also utilizing a full rebuild kit (plus bearings). All the internal parts are back together, but when I go to put the case halves together, there is approximately a 1/16" uniform gap, before tightening any bolts. (Note this excludes the speedometer gear issue below). So, maybe that is intended for snugness, but in the video, it looked like the halves fit flush. I've reassembled it a few times, and it is always the same. So, *first question*, is a slight gap before tightening acceptable?
My second issue is that the speedometer gear I received, seems too tall to work. That is, there is no shelf for the bearing to rest against, to keep the gear from rubbing directly against the inside of the case (with the bearing and spacer in place). The assembly looks *identical* to the speedometer gear (bearing slightly recessed in the speedometer gear). Also, I've precisely measured the distance, and there is simply no way it could fit between the two case halves as it would be installed. Without knowing what the original speedometer gear looked liked, its confusing. I haven't found an alternative part listed that would seem to work. I'm half tempted just to shave 5/32" from the thickness of the gear and be done with it. Any advice would be helpful. Also, if anyone knows a good forum where questions like this are answered, I'd appreciate knowing. Thanks.
I meant 'shave 5/16" from the height of the speedometer gear'.
you're great...
Спасибо.Обзор был отличный!)))
Cómo está mi estimado? te saludo desde Ecuador, he disfrutado de todos tus videos y me gustaría que me ayudes con una información. ..porque los Ford Escape ultimamente la caja se destruye los rodamientos en donde va el sprag y por consiguiente se destruye los planetarios....y otra cosa aca en Ecuador por mas que compre repuestos originales Ford nunca vienen completos en repuestos como usted indica.....gracias por su ayuda y siga adelante con su extraordinario trabajo de los videos....Atte Jerry Quito- Ecuador
Hello,
this is a good trainer I like that methods
Excelente profesor graxias
Спасибо огромное за обзор!!!
Gracias!!¡
After watching your videos and reading the shop manual I rebuilt the cd4e transmission. Is it necessary to replace the servo and is there any reprogramming of the PCM. Thanks you in advance for all the help.
You are the man!
Thank you for a fast response. I will do what you recommend. Again I enjoyed your informative videos.
Seems awfully rough with that aluminum housing on a steel bench, still love it. Fixed an 08 escape thanks to your video! Great job! I don't do transmissions every day so what do I know?!? :)
sound effects next level.
I found your videos very helpful during my rebuild. Perhaps I missed it, but I did not see you take any measurements (clutch clearance, runout, ect...) . Maybe that was done off camera? If I missed it, could you direct me to where you do that? If not, please consider doing a future video showing how that's done.
شكرا جزيلا
Hey buenas noches,saludos desde Tijuana.
Tendrás este tutorial de está transmisión en ESPAÑOL,saludos.
Excelentes tus videos
thanks a lot great video
Hello. Thanks for this video. I buy Mondeo with this transmission with only 51.000 km few days ago. Like I can see is there filter inside and imposible to change if I just changing oil. Is there any reccomentadion when to change this filter if even. I will change oil now, because the car it was in garage last 7 years... I am sure that you know best what is the optimal mileage to change the oil in these CD4E gearboxes for best durability. Thank you again for uploading this video and any kind of quick answer in advance.
I lost the old servo on the highway, so I purchased all three to try. Which should I try first, and what am I looking for to test the servo; slow shifting ? Does the servo come with a new spacer ? I did find the old cap, clip ring, and spring. The techie told me they do not sell the clip rings, so I'll use the old one. If they don't supply a new spacer, how thick is it ? I can machine a new one.
Unfortunately, when I went to pull the pump out. The drum came with it after putting everything back. I still don't have any pump. Ing.
Is there a special way to align the drum back in it
Hiram, good informational videos. I think it would great info if you would do a video on fluids. All the types +4, Mercon V, LV Dex VI, F, Matic S/K/D etc, etc. The internet tells me there is many factors that goes into a ATF, shift characteristics, lubricity, heat transfer yada yada. Some people even "blend" different types to get a certain shift feel. Basically asking if using the wrong fluid will cause serious harm or should I just believe the R&D that the manufacturers have done?
thanks for the video!!!
Hi, I just wanted to say first off that this four-part series on the CD4E transmission that you have done is terrific. I know it's an old video but it really helped me to understand the transmission I'm working on currently as I'm more of an engine guy. Can you tell me the likely issue with my transmission, also the CD4E in a Mariner? Symptoms are these:
When it's been sitting a while and cooled off, you start it and immediately put it in Reverse, it takes a good few seconds to engage and then you have maybe ten seconds to reverse to where you want before you feel it let go again and then you have to let it sit and cool off again. As for drive, again you have to wait a few seconds for it to engage. I'm not sure how long drive will go before it lets go again. Also in drive it whines or has a sound maybe like metal teeth barely nicking together as they spin past each other, especially when trying to move the weight of the vehicle or just holding the brake and the gas at the same time.
I have checked the 2 4 band, the pump, the cooling lines and oil cooler. It's doesn't appear to be leaking externally. The fluid is not discolored and (in my opinion) doesn't smell burnt. My last two ideas are the shift solenoids and the torque converter. I greatly appreciate your time if you even see this after so many years and really hope you can save me some time. Sorry for the long comment.
Mine did the same thing, I tore the filter media from the intake hole below the valve body. It looks like fishing string and then installed an external filter. I didn't have to remove the transmission that way! Drives great now!
During my air check, everything engages as it should, but only the servo and low reverse piston hold enough pressure to push the air nozzle away when I let off the trigger. Is this normal? I can definitely hear each individual piston apply and checked that they apply on the pump before installation in the case. Advice is appreciated.
In my Mazda Tribute 2.3 4x2 automatic transmission, shifting gears no longer works. Whenever I shift to "D," the car does not drive as if it is in "N." What could be the problem with the transmission?
Great tutorial series, now does it matter I had few parts left over in my hand?👀
Your CD4E videos have helped tremendously. If you reply to questions, I have a few. I’m getting cross leaks when I air test, to varying degrees on all circuits. I installed new sealing rings, and my direct drum inner hub looks smooth and ungrooved. New bushings. Used STP on sealing rings and bushings. I get enough pressure at 40 psi to get clutches to apply, but plenty of air leaks past sealing rings into adjacent circuits. Should it be nearly air-tight? Or is that only possible with ATF? Also is it necessary for the converter/cooler circuit to be air tight when I hold thumb over hole at end of support shaft? I get some leakage out pump intake and exhaust ports when I pressurize this circuit. I flat sanded pump halves on thick glass and used right gasket but it did not help much. Thanks for your work.
that beautiful work , congratulations my friend, my car has this exchange ford Mondeo model year 95, when re hitch or front he 's a jerk and not walking or backward and not forward. give me a tip? I am mechanic of electronic injection sites but to taking up cambios , my exchange and CD4E
Does the pump go in only one way, or at any clock position, and the bolt holes are all the same distance ?
and i repeat everyone hit like, and click on the ad that coems up on the video, it sends money to hiram and helps him get mroe views!! when someone searches CD4E transmission we want his to come up first!!!
can I just pull the pump from the outside without any issues to replace rusted out pump case. all videos I have found have the pump installed then the internals. transmission is working fine in all aspects expected hole in the pump case. I have new pump already
good day sir hiram, im from philippines have a problem in my cd4e. finnish rebuilding it. the problem is when its cold it will engage on 1st gear only. no reverse and 2nd 3rd 4th. but after 10 minutes of warmup. everything is alright.
Hey Hiram:
Im the guy that asked if you could do a CD4E viedo a few months back... Great viedo!
I'm a bit confused with the valve body however...Diagnostics showed either the line pressure PWM solenoid as bad I cant remember which one now, but I am confused as to where these are located as I did not see any in your assembly. The tranny shifts through all gears but it wont hold in any of them but hunts around shifting in and out of 2 3 4 gears.
Good video , thank you. I wonder if I can replace the filter on my transmission only. I have the transmission out of the car. Is it possible to open it up and just replace the filter without disassemblying those rings, differential etc ?
Did you do the filter. Im having a. Issue with mine it loses power after mins. Looks like my filter might e pluged.
One of the most easiest Gearboxes I've ever worked on.
Also installed the Modified Valve body kit and Upgraded the Valve Solenoids.
Just did my cd4e rebuild on a ford escape 2008 following this videos, but now transmission won't shift with engine hot, it works just fine with engine cold right after start, how can I correct this?
Good job! But how about a small filter for direct clutch?
hey, i have gotten an issue where the main assembly with the clutches won't fully seat and the pump shaft won't protrude, this issue also is causing the assembly to stick in place, the clutches and sprag are removed, the 2-4 piston has been installed already, and my partner had decided when cleaning the case that it was best to use the wire wheel i got for the outside of the case on the inside where the pump seals, instead of waiting for me to get sanding drums for the dremel, so i was unable to sand the groves he made out, he then suggested and i agreed (since there wasn't much other option) to use silicone, so now the pump won't be removable without removing the assembly anyways, what should i do? will removing the 2-4 servo help? i don't have the tool for it, we used C-clamps and the one went through the pump hole, the drum that the band holds is able to spin, i can't really figure out what might be holding it so tightly, it's currently upside down
How long does the inside filter work well? Can it be full one day and the transmission needs to be opened?
Buenas amigo, te ago una consulta desde Argentina, tengo esta misma caja en mi auto, de repente se quedo sin trasmisión, como o donde podría obtener el funcionamiento de la caja y si hay forma de probarla ante de colocarla en el auto, desde ya gracias
Me podrías informar el torque de apriete de los bulones que unen los cuerpos y el de la bomba al cuerpo. Gracias
I had attempted my rebuild and now my truck is locked in park no matter which gear I try to put it into, it just rocks back and forth as if in park. Is it possible that the parking pawl mechanism could have locked into one of the teeth during re-assembly in my situation? I thought I was being extremely careful but who knows. I dread going back in there, gotta take the whole damn truck apart again!
Never mind. I had to go back in there and open it up. Turns out that the differential was not seated properly where the gears meet the outer ring on the case side of the output shaft. Not sure how the hell that happened but I am new at this. I was able to re-seat the case and now it spins. A good test I recommend is to attach the transfer case to the transmission and try to turn the output shaft and make sure it moves freely before re-installation. Would have saved me a ton of time!
Actually, scratch that. I still have the same problem! for whatever reason when I sandwich the case back together the output shaft is locking up again! I don't get it cuz the differential section is fine before torquing down any of the bolts, even just one! Please help! I'll post a video of the problem later on tonight.
Question, replaced solenoid back and put back together and now the transmission will no go into reverse, it goes in drive in selection on the transmission
2007 Ford Escape 3.o v6 Is this the same trans? What noises do the different failures make? Do they all make the same noise? With these transmissions I guess failure is common. Are there upgrades that can be done to preemptively to make it reliable. I like the size of them and am looking at buying one that needs trans work, makes noise in forward and reverse a loud squealing noise at this point.
Ahh, CD4E transmission. I remember it well, especially replacing the coast clutch drum after it had blown the circlip out of its groove and mullered the drum. No valve body update kit out then, that was just when the beige connector solenoid block was coming out to update the brown. Would you replace the bushings on this transmission?
+Phil Toutountzi
As Hiram says, if they make after market bushings them always replace them. That's also what i do. :)
Hi Hiram, I have a 99 Ford Contour SE with the 2.5L and the CD4E automatic transmission and I have some issues with it, first the reverse doesn't engage when i put the car in reverse, it does after i accelerate a little bit, if i dont accelerate the car rolls forward in reverse. Secondly I feel the transmission is not delivering the power the car has to the wheels when taking off, it doesn't stall but it should have more torque. And also sometimes it shifts hard from 1st to 2nd gear driving normally. Thank you, I like your videos and I kinda wanna rebuilt the tranny but I wonder how to remove it from the car.
Saludos Excelentes vídeos ,por favor me confirma si esta reparación fue para una transmisión hidráulica para una Ford escape 2007
Gracias
Здравствуйте! А где можно найти карту доработки пластин гидроблока и до какого диаметра отверстия вы рассверливали? У меня Ford Mondeo 3 2.0l 2007г - есть необходимость доработки гидроблока?
Hiram
Before everythink THANK YOU SO MUCH for all your videos i have a question for you.
I have a 2003 ford escape and the problem is that doesn't move forward but reverse is working perfect. I wachted all your videos and i would like to do it my selft but i have a hard fealing that is a solenoide problem 1 and 2 gear it was working and now it's just reverse.
By the way. Are hispanic ?
Hello Hiram! I have a Ford Contour 99 with CD4E A/T. The problem is in the 3rd gear when is going in 78 to 80 km/h to change in to the 4th gear, the steering snock's (se golpetea y se jalonea) Some times the problem do not appear but in other it does. The oil of the A/T was never changed, so I changed thinking it would solve the problem but only came out 2.5L and stops. In the owner's guide it says is required 8.51L. So I think it was missing oil and I put 5L, start the engine and shift in to all the gear to check the oil level and see if I recover the oil level but the level is exceeds very much. How can I get out so much oil as is possible? Do you think the A/T needs ATF Mercon like in the owner's guide says? Or needs other oil with more viscosity to shift better? The Lucas Transsmision treatment fluid works in this case? I thank you so much for your help
You make it look easy I know it's not.
Hi, great video, I'm a Allison Trans builder. My question is I pulled a CD4E out from a 2007 3.0. I found 3 frictions in the low/rev, are the cases the same for the v6 and 4? Can I go back with 3 or can I put 4 in? Also will there be any clutch clearance issues? I don't know if someone put a 4 cyl trans in? Also, it had a 3 gear planet. thanks
I'm not sure about the air check. I don't hear anything buy pressure when you do the air check. Will air "NOT" pass through when doing the air check? I don;t really hear any change in the transmission. What may I have done wrong? I don't want to put this back on the vehicle without knowing. I really appropriate any help.
+Chris Barnes
what you should be able to hear is the piston on the servo go from apply (the first hole) to return (the second hole). when he uses air you can barely hear the servo moving. It's just a test to see if the servo lip seal has sealed. :)
yo tengo una ford escape 2008 y cuando esta fria camina pero cuando calienta queda en neutro
When you put the bell housing back on did you put a thread sealant on and if so which one?
Hiram, does the Transgo shift kit correct the problem of the worn valve body, or must the valve body be replaced once it is worn?
EXCELENTE VIDEO... PERO, NO TIENE KA VERSION EN ESPAÑOL?
Could the servo blow out of a transmission?
Transgo says on their website that this kit can be installed without removing the trans from the car. What type of transmission problem would be corrected by doing just that?
Muy bien tengo un problema cn una de esas no hace overdrevi si me poede ayudar se lo sgradesco
do you have any videos of a 2008 v6 cd4e model of the low reverse sprag assembly I have 4 frictions and two wave washers one wave washer is thinner than the other or any diagrams on this.
How often do the filters clog on my awd 3.0 escape you drive for a little bit and then it looses all gears. After you let it sit for 5 minutes it drives again.
I did a reverse trans flush and it drove for 2 days before the problem started again.
Did you find out what the problem was. I have the same issue. I did a drain and fill and it drove fine for a bit. .
@@esteroverde6890 it was a clogged trans filter I pulled out the valve body heated and bent a screw driver ripped and poked holes in the filter. Re assembled and put in an inline filter
@@cronicjohnson THANK YOU SO MUCH.
Where in the valve body section is the suction port.
I just pulled out the tranny today. I might just replace the filter. Or go your route. Depending on how hard it is to get to it or market filter availability.
I am overhauling a CD4E using your video. Out of a 2002 Escape. We have it all together and before I put the control valve on. Want to test it through the reverse clutch, forward clutch, direct clutch, low/reverse clutch and coast clutch holes with air. I can hear all but the reverse clutch working. When I put air to the reverse clutch I also get air coming out the converter clutch bypass, converter turbine and converter impeller holes. Is this suppose to coming out the other holes? Thanks Al Cassell
I got same problem can anybody tell me what can be wrong
i have been watching you videos there really informative you would make a good college lecturer
have you had any dealings with bus and coach transmissions
Подскажите пожалуйста как выбрать сервопоршень к cd4e . На одну полоску, на две, или вобще без полосок. У меня в движении он выпал и незнаю какой ставить. Спасибо за ответ.
Hiram, I had a forward drum line pressure problem .
I have replaced all the broken parts and installed all new bushing and master kit.
Question is when I'm doing the "AIR CHECK@ 40 psi" on the stator alone I have air leaking between stator shaft and the drum.
The clutches move and look to be working but the leaks have me at a complete stop until I know for sure what's going on.
Will the cut seals close up under fluid pressure? I also notice a small amount of air leeching from between the pump spacer plate and gasket.....but its very small. I have checked the new "used" forward drum by filling it with WD40 to see any leaks with no avail! Should I just buy a new FD and see if that's the magic fix since these drums are a PITA?
I am having the exact same issue you are describing with cross leaks in the sealing rings of the support shaft, and some slight leaks in the pump. I have tried lubing sealing well, spinning drum, new bushings, flat sanding the pump halves, a new gasket, and used both the old and reman drum. I can’t seem to get it to stop the leaks. Did you ever resolve this? Thanks.
Hi Hiram, I have an 2007 Escape with one of these.transmissions, I have a problem, It has a no change up unless I lift the foot off the throttle for a second and then it will change up. I have to do this with each gear change.I put in new turbine shaft input and output sensors and then I put in the transgo shift kit, but it is still doing it, in the old days you would say the kickdown cable was too tight and need to be adjusted, ie too much throttle pressure. when it does this after a bout 5 minutes the OD light starts flashing.. any ideas? Car has only 130,000klm (80000 miles) it has the brown servo pack connector and it looks like someone has put in a reco???? box prior to my buying it, all painted silverfrost..
cassowaryind broken 2/4 band. Its a $40 piece that can be accessed without removing the trans completely (but its a pain in the ass)
Sorry for off topic, but how much would it cost me for you to do a complete rebuild of my C6, with all the fixes and shift kit stuff?
first view and comment xD nice series dude!!!
what will cause OBD code P1742 and P1743 on a Ford Escape (240,000 kms)