Really like your videos and the projects you're documenting. You claim little wood working experience but you make up for it with doing your homework and very meticulous and detailed approach - which is all you need to be the expert you have become! Keep up the good work!
Thank you, I really appreciate the kind words! What I lack in skill I can make-up somewhat in patience, and working on it until it's right. Thanks again and good luck with your build!
Yours wasn't the very first videos I spotted where people were using extruded aluminum in a van, but after seeing your galley build and now this, my upcoming build will be 100% done with this stuff. Corrosion proof, looks great and basically as easy to work with as wood, maybe easier in some ways - bolting things together instead of screwing into wood gives infinite chances to reposition and adjust, so cool. The overhead cabinets look great as well. And with this stuff bolted into the van, if anything the entire van should be more structurally sound in case of an accident.
Great stuff... super clean work. I ended up doing overhead cabinets on both sides of my van using your videos as guides. I used some 80/20 hinges and door hardware and my paneling is bolted to the 80/20, so overall it’s got a little more industrial look, but I love them! Thanks again!
Thank you! And yes, there are many times I would forget to add the t-nuts...thank goodness for the roll-in ones for those times I was lazy/forgetful. Take care!
Amazing my friend.. As always I did it in different method using L shape thick aluminum angles to minimize the weight. Your way is great and last for along time. Hope to meet you when i get back from my trip. Enjoy it brother and be safe
I'm getting so many great ideas from you! Thank you so much for your content! When i order parts, I'll do it through your links so you get some kind of compensation for your outstanding videos!
So, i've got an '02 3500 Sprinter and the intention is to turn it into a camper van & i finally started to research what route i'll take. I've looked at a lot but in all honestly i love yours the MOST. You have given me the inspiration to do this right. I'm curious and eager to see what your bed setup will be. Also, do you plan on doing a toilet and/or shower? If so, what are you thinking for that? I googled and came across a couple really inovative fold away shower units but sadly they were all conceptual. Thank you for taking the time to video your journey and sharing with us!
Wow, I’m so grateful for your videos. Thank you so much for sharing. As someone who is currently sourcing his rig your videos are invaluable to me as well as your parts lists. One question - any chance you will shed some insight on how you do the end caps for the cabinets?
Thanks for the video. Question, how do you mount the 8020 that has 90 degree angles to a ceiling or sidewalk that’s not square? You leave gaps? Or use angle shims? If you use shims , where do you get them? Thanks!
Love the videos Ken, and thanks for taking the time to help those of us who are trying to figure this out. I appreciate your attention to detail and craftsmanship, and plan to integrate many of your ideas on our build later this fall. I don't see any link for where you sourced the bamboo plywood.. Did you get that local? Thanks!
Beautiful build. Why did you select 3/4” for doors, yet 1/4” for cabinet bottoms? 80/20 looks like a great material to work with. Thank you for sharing.
I'm considering different profiles for the bottom face of overhead cabinet. Choice between: 1. Use smooth sides facing down, for better aesthetics 2. Use slotted sides, for potential utility. Maybe just slotted on rear edge Has anybody used slotted profiles facing down and found them useful?
I have slotted facing down against the headliner. I figured I could put led strip lighting in there or use it as an attachment point for something later. I used solid facing down at the front for aesthetics.
Yes, without the felt they rattle and slide too easily, even under acceleration and braking. Some felt, gaft tape or Teflon tape will help add resistance and eliminate rattles.
Thanks for the informative video! What was the approvimate length of your vertical and horizontal supports? I think you mention 11 5/8 for the vertical, but you didn't mention the size of the horizontal supports.
Ken, great job. You might have mentioned it in the videos but I didn't always have the sound on ;)... curious why you didn't go with gas shocks (which are all the rage on van builds) and/or slo-close hinges.
As always Ken, just blown away by your analysis, creativity, and excellent craftsmanship!! I want to copy your overhead cabinets and have a few questions. 1. What do you think about using the same attachment point technique you used on the ceiling on the back wall? That is, fir out with the plus nuts and spacers and just have the 80/20 on the outside of the headliner (i.e. omitting the 80/20 piece behind the headliner)? 2. What are your thoughts about using slider doors on the upper cabinets like the ones you did on your recent lower cabinet? 3. Where did you source the bamboo? Thanks!
Hi Drew, You could do that. Are you using the factory headliner? If so, the PVC spacers would need to be pretty thick. Mine are close to 1" thick. The 80/20 rail behind the headliner is 3/4" thick. So somewhere around 1-3/4" thick would probably be the right thickness. Nothing wrong at all with using sliders up top. The 1/4" material I used on my lower cabinet is much lighter than the 3/4" I used up top, and no need for cabinet lifts and hinges. That said, I think the uppers look very attractive compared to my lower rear cabinets. My bamboo is made by Plyboo. I ordered from two different hardwood stores, so I think any decent store could order it. I hope that helps!
@@ourkaravan Thank you so much for your reply Ken! Yes, I'm thinking I will use the factory headliner; so, your point about the need for thicker furring shims is well taken. I love your upper cabinet doors too. That said, I'm kind of intimidated by the hardware install for the upper doors and like the idea of the sliders not having to open outward in a relatively confined space.
The sliding doors are easier, yes. And they look good enough. The uppers though are usually what 'wow' people. That feels good when you've worked this hard on a van!
Hi, the depth is 12-1/2" from the headliner to the outside of the 80/20 framing. Add another 3/4" for the thickness of the cabinet doors. Height is 14-5/8", if I recall correctly.
I have a complete write up on my website, ourkaravan.com where I discuss cost of building with 80/20. It's specific to the galley unit but would be easy to estimate for the overheads as they are just straight profiles.
Another classic man! Thanks for documenting and sharing! Wish I saw this a week ago before I ordered my 8020 cabinet door slides. What made you go with doors that hinge upwards rather than sliding doors in a track?
kenetube good thoughts. I will stay the course for now but I do like how open everything becomes and accessible when you open all of your cabinets at once. Sliders always block half of your cabinet.
Awesome - I have been messing around with tile wedges, but your way seems more elegant. I really appreciate the time you have spent documenting your build, it has been very helpful in overcoming the many little details which take the most time to solve.
I used that grip mat that is typically used in rv drawers to keep things from sliding around. It was the perfect thickness to wedge the 1/4” ply in place and prevent rattling AND keeps stuff from sliding around.
I am using Plyboo brand and have purchased from two separate hardwood stores. It seems that any good hardwood store should be able to order bamboo for you, but maybe I got lucky with my 2 experiences.
It all comes down to the look you want. I wanted 1/2" doors but realized the European hinges and lifts require thicker wood. The move to 3/4" bamboo from 1/2" bamboo only added 13 pounds to my entire build. Whether or not you make the same choice will be up to you.
Back in Black by AC/DC was the blueprint for all heavy metal albums. You have done the same for van builds. Thank you! We salute you!
Really like your videos and the projects you're documenting. You claim little wood working experience but you make up for it with doing your homework and very meticulous and detailed approach - which is all you need to be the expert you have become! Keep up the good work!
Thank you, I really appreciate the kind words! What I lack in skill I can make-up somewhat in patience, and working on it until it's right. Thanks again and good luck with your build!
Yours wasn't the very first videos I spotted where people were using extruded aluminum in a van, but after seeing your galley build and now this, my upcoming build will be 100% done with this stuff. Corrosion proof, looks great and basically as easy to work with as wood, maybe easier in some ways - bolting things together instead of screwing into wood gives infinite chances to reposition and adjust, so cool. The overhead cabinets look great as well. And with this stuff bolted into the van, if anything the entire van should be more structurally sound in case of an accident.
This is better than a professional fit out. You set the bar very high for the rest of us - inspires us to do the very best - well done sir.
Your audio is much improved recently, thanks! I really appreciate all your great ideas.
Great stuff... super clean work.
I ended up doing overhead cabinets on both sides of my van using your videos as guides. I used some 80/20 hinges and door hardware and my paneling is bolted to the 80/20, so overall it’s got a little more industrial look, but I love them!
Thanks again!
You can just about see the finish line👍🏻 I’m going to be gutted when the build is over! So many great ideas!💡
Absolutely 1st class, nicely done. I don't Airstream could have done it better. Just not to forget preloading the track with backer nuts!
Thank you! And yes, there are many times I would forget to add the t-nuts...thank goodness for the roll-in ones for those times I was lazy/forgetful. Take care!
Amazing my friend.. As always
I did it in different method using L shape thick aluminum angles to minimize the weight. Your way is great and last for along time.
Hope to meet you when i get back from my trip.
Enjoy it brother and be safe
Fantastic work. Such a clean install.
That is gorgeous i hope to do something similar in the future to my passenger sprinter
Thank you, I appreciate that!
Another quality video - well thought out ! Thank you!
Very nice and intelligent build!!!
Well done Ken hundred and sixteen people like your work
Thanks for sharing your build. I like your choices and style.
I'm getting so many great ideas from you! Thank you so much for your content! When i order parts, I'll do it through your links so you get some kind of compensation for your outstanding videos!
Wow, you put great info into your videos. Thanks
Thank you I appreciate the kind words!
Very Slick Install. Top Quality Hardware‼️👍👍 Vinny 🇺🇸
Thank you!!
Your videos are soooooooo helpful, Kenetube!
So, i've got an '02 3500 Sprinter and the intention is to turn it into a camper van & i finally started to research what route i'll take. I've looked at a lot but in all honestly i love yours the MOST. You have given me the inspiration to do this right.
I'm curious and eager to see what your bed setup will be. Also, do you plan on doing a toilet and/or shower? If so, what are you thinking for that? I googled and came across a couple really inovative fold away shower units but sadly they were all conceptual.
Thank you for taking the time to video your journey and sharing with us!
Another job well done!
Yes the video I was looking for thanks for making it
Of course, thanks for watching!
Thank you for the great vid? I want to do inset upper cabinets so you see the aluminum frame, would these hinges still work for that technique?
Wow, I’m so grateful for your videos. Thank you so much for sharing. As someone who is currently sourcing his rig your videos are invaluable to me as well as your parts lists.
One question - any chance you will shed some insight on how you do the end caps for the cabinets?
Beautiful. 10 pounds, that is some heavy duty bamboo.
Another great video kenetube!
Thanks for the video.
Question, how do you mount the 8020 that has 90 degree angles to a ceiling or sidewalk that’s not square? You leave gaps? Or use angle shims? If you use shims , where do you get them? Thanks!
I have another video on my channel that shows how I used shims to accomplish this.
Love the videos Ken, and thanks for taking the time to help those of us who are trying to figure this out. I appreciate your attention to detail and craftsmanship, and plan to integrate many of your ideas on our build later this fall. I don't see any link for where you sourced the bamboo plywood.. Did you get that local? Thanks!
great job kene
How do the floors slide all the way in the groves with cross members, are they not blocked by the fasteners that hold the cross members in place?
Hi, if I understand your question correctly, the floor of the cabinet is notched around the fasteners. You can’t see it though.
Beautiful build. Why did you select 3/4” for doors, yet 1/4” for cabinet bottoms? 80/20 looks like a great material to work with. Thank you for sharing.
kenetube Thanks! I thought of that after I sent the question. Looks like you chose some great hardware. Well done.
I'm considering different profiles for the bottom face of overhead cabinet. Choice between:
1. Use smooth sides facing down, for better aesthetics
2. Use slotted sides, for potential utility. Maybe just slotted on rear edge
Has anybody used slotted profiles facing down and found them useful?
I have slotted facing down against the headliner. I figured I could put led strip lighting in there or use it as an attachment point for something later. I used solid facing down at the front for aesthetics.
Do the cabinet panel bottoms rattle at all just being slid in? Did you need felt or 8020 gaskets or anything?
Yes, without the felt they rattle and slide too easily, even under acceleration and braking. Some felt, gaft tape or Teflon tape will help add resistance and eliminate rattles.
Again with the killer ideas!! What depth and height did you go?
Very nice!
Thanks for the informative video! What was the approvimate length of your vertical and horizontal supports? I think you mention 11 5/8 for the vertical, but you didn't mention the size of the horizontal supports.
When you say horizontal do you mean the profiles that help support the floor of the cabinet?
Ken, great job. You might have mentioned it in the videos but I didn't always have the sound on ;)... curious why you didn't go with gas shocks (which are all the rage on van builds) and/or slo-close hinges.
Makes sense, thanks for the reply.
As always Ken, just blown away by your analysis, creativity, and excellent craftsmanship!! I want to copy your overhead cabinets and have a few questions. 1. What do you think about using the same attachment point technique you used on the ceiling on the back wall? That is, fir out with the plus nuts and spacers and just have the 80/20 on the outside of the headliner (i.e. omitting the 80/20 piece behind the headliner)? 2. What are your thoughts about using slider doors on the upper cabinets like the ones you did on your recent lower cabinet? 3. Where did you source the bamboo? Thanks!
Hi Drew,
You could do that. Are you using the factory headliner? If so, the PVC spacers would need to be pretty thick. Mine are close to 1" thick. The 80/20 rail behind the headliner is 3/4" thick. So somewhere around 1-3/4" thick would probably be the right thickness.
Nothing wrong at all with using sliders up top. The 1/4" material I used on my lower cabinet is much lighter than the 3/4" I used up top, and no need for cabinet lifts and hinges. That said, I think the uppers look very attractive compared to my lower rear cabinets.
My bamboo is made by Plyboo. I ordered from two different hardwood stores, so I think any decent store could order it.
I hope that helps!
@@ourkaravan Thank you so much for your reply Ken!
Yes, I'm thinking I will use the factory headliner; so, your point about the need for thicker furring shims is well taken.
I love your upper cabinet doors too. That said, I'm kind of intimidated by the hardware install for the upper doors and like the idea of the sliders not having to open outward in a relatively confined space.
The sliding doors are easier, yes. And they look good enough. The uppers though are usually what 'wow' people. That feels good when you've worked this hard on a van!
Nice build, could I know how the height and depth?
Hi, the depth is 12-1/2" from the headliner to the outside of the 80/20 framing. Add another 3/4" for the thickness of the cabinet doors. Height is 14-5/8", if I recall correctly.
How much does it cost to this ? Approximately .. ? Thanks 😊
I have a complete write up on my website, ourkaravan.com where I discuss cost of building with 80/20. It's specific to the galley unit but would be easy to estimate for the overheads as they are just straight profiles.
Another classic man! Thanks for documenting and sharing! Wish I saw this a week ago before I ordered my 8020 cabinet door slides. What made you go with doors that hinge upwards rather than sliding doors in a track?
kenetube good thoughts. I will stay the course for now but I do like how open everything becomes and accessible when you open all of your cabinets at once. Sliders always block half of your cabinet.
What did you use to wedge the bottom panels in place to keep them from rattling?
Awesome - I have been messing around with tile wedges, but your way seems more elegant. I really appreciate the time you have spent documenting your build, it has been very helpful in overcoming the many little details which take the most time to solve.
For some reason I don't see the answer to this. What did you use to wedge in the panels?
I used that grip mat that is typically used in rv drawers to keep things from sliding around. It was the perfect thickness to wedge the 1/4” ply in place and prevent rattling AND keeps stuff from sliding around.
Where are you getting your bamboo wood from?
I am using Plyboo brand and have purchased from two separate hardwood stores. It seems that any good hardwood store should be able to order bamboo for you, but maybe I got lucky with my 2 experiences.
Ken, everytime you do a video it cost me another 1k bucks. Looks good lgging onto amazon now to lose more $$$$
I wish you could just do mine for me
10 lbs each? Doesn't that defeat the purpose of 8020 they are suppose to be light
It all comes down to the look you want. I wanted 1/2" doors but realized the European hinges and lifts require thicker wood. The move to 3/4" bamboo from 1/2" bamboo only added 13 pounds to my entire build. Whether or not you make the same choice will be up to you.
DIY van porn at its finest :)
Woodprix is nice for that.