The most common sense commentary I've heard about photography. So refreshing. I take the same approach when photographing my subjects. As long as i like what I'm producing and the client is happy with the results it's a good day
I love shooting wide open too especially for headshots and that dreamy vibe. Lately when the environment is nice I've been going towards f/2-4.0, that little extra context feels great to me.
I've heard this same thing about how I need to raise the f stop since I first picked up a camera, but I love shooting wide open. Not for the over desired bokeh, but I just love the way the image looks. My 85 1.8 S Nikon lens is my favorite lens to shoot anything as long as I have the room to foot zoom and always on 1.8 or 2 unless I'm shooting more than one person.
Great info … thanks. I acquired the X100V almost a year ago to up my iPhone photography and I’ll definitely try more portrait snaps with f/2. One of my favourite photos recently was an Acros B&W photo of our cat with eyes sharp and body fur a little soft … magic!
When I started to dabble in portrait shots I was drawn to shooting close up wide open but kind of got away from that. Think I will start doing it again as that is what I enjoy doing.
Go for it! One of my favorite aspects of photography is experimenting. Different light, different focal lengths, f stops, shutter speeds, angles, poses, etc. It's really endless and we are only limited by our own creativity.
Truth about 90% of my portfolio is shot wide open with my favorite lens Canon's EF 85mm f/1.8. I bought it when I got my 1st DSLR Rebel XSi; shot it on the 60D, 70D, 80D. I thought I would even better results with a f/1.2L on a 5D mark III. I didn't. At first I thought it was due to my stepping up to the 5D and not knowing the camera, but after shooting 1000s of images on the 5D markIII. I went back to the 1.8 it focuses faster and more reliably and I liked the look better on the crop sensor cameras. It just like you said has a certain magic look that became my signature style. I think it's the look you get with a 135mm on full frame 😏 😉 🤗
Thanks, Alvin! It's funny how that works. We put so much emphasis on getting the fastest, top of the line lenses, but there are so many great lenses out there that won't break the bank.
i thought wide open was conventional certainly was when i was studying photography,mid 70’s, phones up until now has perhaps changed this. Grand video.
Thanks, Jan. People say not to shoot wide open because lenses are not at their sharpest, it's easy to miss focus, etc. I think the internet echo chamber has amplified the idea as well.
Shooting wide open or stopped down is not good or bad. it depends the story and if there is one. Studio with a empty background you can do both, but if there is a product in de shot, you have to stop down so you get everything in focus. If you shoot on location and want to tell a story about where that person is, you cannot blur everything. I can name a lot of examples, but i think you get the point. when i started photography, as soon as i could afford an expensive lenses, i shot wide open all the time. but as i became better i started to notice that every situation requires a different aperture. also when editing a started to notice the benefits of shooting more things in focus. a lot of photos i made previous where just a blurry mess.
@@PeteCocoPhoto exactly, sorry english is not my native language. Anyway good video overal. I get what you’re saying. A lot of photographers are preaching not too shoot wide open. I say do what ever you want, thats the only way to learn and creating your own “style, look”.
@@MORTRAX Thanks! I agree - you have to experiment to find your own style and it's important to ignore convention, even if you wind up using the accepted wisdom at times, which I do quite often as well.
I'm a beginner so I don't really have a personal style yet. But, I think that you make decisions like this based upon what you want to achieve in the end. Many times when I've seen videos touting the need to stop down a bit it was in reference to fashion photography when the apparel client needs their product in focus. But, I definitely have seen it in reference to portraits as well. I was thinking that by placing your subject close to the background, your background won't be blown away to oblivion, it will just have nice separation. I also have the XF56mm and really like like it. Just need lots more practice before I feel comfortable about portraiture. Thanks for the info and have a great week. Going up to 60 degrees today in Lehigh VAlley, PA! Only 25 days until spring....
Thanks, Charlie! Yes, context is always key, but even in those situations where we are told that one should do XYZ, those rules can be stifling and in fact you will see the most prolific photographers break them all the time. Now, if I were shooting for a Gap ad, for instance, I would definitely want to stop down and make sure the products are in focus.
Pete, I usually shoot flash, not continous lights. At 1.4 one has to either use hss or nd filters. My strobes don't support hss, and i haven't found any nd filter that does NOT affect colour in a bad way :(. Now I tried once a borrowed LED continous light, but I felt it is so bright, that it is a pain to look at, even at a low power output (but it makes a nice large iris). Do your clients don't feel uncomfortable with the bright light? How do you cope with that? Thx for your ever so good content! Cheers from Germany, Peter
Great insights, thank you Peter! When I want to shoot wide open with flash, I definitely prefer HSS for the reasons you state regarding filters. I have a Nanlite FS-300 and for some of the photos in this tutorial I was at 1%. They get bright quick!
are you talking about shooting outside? otherwise you should be able to control the strobe output so you can use your camera's fastest non-HSS shutter and be just fine. what am i missing? and BTW my fave is my 70-200 2.8 because i love the compression and the look of that glass. i rented the 85mm 1.2 to see if i wanted to drop the money, and i couldn't see ANY reason i would prefer it. fussy focus. and RARELY wanted the DOF to be that shallow. 5dmkIV, mostly.
@@jshuimages Awesome, Jim. The 70-200 2.8 is one of the best ever! Yes, shooting outside with HSS is what I was primarily referring to. But in the studio, I prefer continuous since I can use any shutter speed I need to shoot wide open for this kind of portrait.
Let me start by saying that I like “convention”, I recently attended the annual plumbers convention in Atlantic City and I had a wonderful time, the food was great. Good video (and definitely food for though). Question, if after taking a portrait your customer tells you that they don’t like the shadow on the background and that they want everything in focus (from the tip of the nose to the back of the ears), would you re-shoot it or ask them (in a nice way) to go somewhere else, and is this a subject that you talk about with them ahead of time? It’s a good thing that I don’t have this problem/issue, I only photograph iguanas, butterflies and birds. Be well and stay safe Pete.
Hey Enrique! I've never had a client say anything about depth of field. I don't think they are looking at something like that. For them, it's either a cool photo or it isn't. But, I do offer my clients head and shoulders headshots as well as portraits, so after we create more "standard" headshots, we go for the creative portraits like I demoed here. This way they get the best of both worlds.
I Hear all the time these days Bokeh Bokeh shoot wide open,My 2 cents is be orginal as you said i agree with that attitude.I also agree those who love tearing others down many times are not very good theirselves.I Shoot narrow and wide f stop it basically depends on what look i want i change my looks up very very very often.I dont care about boring rules i just belive in making art your proud of and a client if they hire you they like your style =)
THANK YOU!!! Very interesting unconventional point of view on the studio portrait. Do you use any high speed sync flash? If yes... which one? Thank you so much!!
Hey Marco, thank you! Yes, I use Godox 200 flashes as well as continuous light in my studio. Generally I use high speed sync for outdoor shoots in the daytime.
I am more technical for headshots but for portraits, I am along the lines of this video. I keep saying “I am the pineapple on pizza photographer”, I want to be different. One of the reasons I added Fuji to my collection, I didn’t want “the sharpest” or the “critically accurate colors” when I am shooting portraits. If everyone followed the same rules then where is the creativity?
Same here. When I take a headshot, it's usually around f/4, no color grading, etc. That's why I love the ability to get really creative for my portrait work.
Hey Mac, thank you! I have not tried the Sigma 105 but I have heard great things about it. Hopefully Canon will release companies to make third party lenses soon because that would be on my short list.
@@macwestcanon All of my old EF lenses work flawlessly on the R5, which is one way Canon has hit a home run. It makes the whole system more viable to me since you don't need RF lenses to get great performance.
Uhh, a lot of photographers use a substantially longer focal length to shoot portraits, so shooting at 1.4 on a 50mm is not the same as shooting 200mm at 2.8. And let's not forget that depth of field is dependent on focal length, aperture, and probably most importantly, the distance between you and your subject. I feel like your argument is just as disingenuous as those who say to never shoot wide open.
The most common sense commentary I've heard about photography. So refreshing. I take the same approach when photographing my subjects. As long as i like what I'm producing and the client is happy with the results it's a good day
Awesome, thank you Gary!
Amen and yea verily! I love this post.
Thanks, Daniel!
I love shooting wide open too especially for headshots and that dreamy vibe. Lately when the environment is nice I've been going towards f/2-4.0, that little extra context feels great to me.
Agreed, I approach environmental portraits differently than in studio in most cases.
This is brilliant, Pete! Really appreciate the insights that you shared and your work is inspiring.
Thank you Matt! I appreciate this comment so much!
Agree 110%. Great video.
Thanks for watching, Steve!
I like this! Finally someone says it..
Thanks!
I've heard this same thing about how I need to raise the f stop since I first picked up a camera, but I love shooting wide open. Not for the over desired bokeh, but I just love the way the image looks. My 85 1.8 S Nikon lens is my favorite lens to shoot anything as long as I have the room to foot zoom and always on 1.8 or 2 unless I'm shooting more than one person.
Same here. Shooting wide open makes it more challenging to get a super sharp image and I think that's part of the reason some people avoid doing it.
Great info … thanks. I acquired the X100V almost a year ago to up my iPhone photography and I’ll definitely try more portrait snaps with f/2. One of my favourite photos recently was an Acros B&W photo of our cat with eyes sharp and body fur a little soft … magic!
Thanks!
Cool point of view. I like your portrait shots. 👍🏼
Thanks! 👍
Great video Pete
Thanks 👍
Very insightful! I never thought about shooting wide open, but I will be thinking about this! Thanks!
Thank you! You should give it a try!
I already shoot always wide open portraits. I agree with everything you said, subscribed. Outstanding portraits .
Thanks! Appreciate the comment and sub 🙏
When I started to dabble in portrait shots I was drawn to shooting close up wide open but kind of got away from that. Think I will start doing it again as that is what I enjoy doing.
Go for it! One of my favorite aspects of photography is experimenting. Different light, different focal lengths, f stops, shutter speeds, angles, poses, etc. It's really endless and we are only limited by our own creativity.
Truth about 90% of my portfolio is shot wide open with my favorite lens Canon's EF 85mm f/1.8. I bought it when I got my 1st DSLR Rebel XSi; shot it on the 60D, 70D, 80D. I thought I would even better results with a f/1.2L on a 5D mark III. I didn't. At first I thought it was due to my stepping up to the 5D and not knowing the camera, but after shooting 1000s of images on the 5D markIII. I went back to the 1.8 it focuses faster and more reliably and I liked the look better on the crop sensor cameras. It just like you said has a certain magic look that became my signature style. I think it's the look you get with a 135mm on full frame 😏 😉 🤗
Thanks, Alvin! It's funny how that works. We put so much emphasis on getting the fastest, top of the line lenses, but there are so many great lenses out there that won't break the bank.
thanks for the effort and the sharing. another thoughtful YT vid. i am an appreciative subscriber. thumbs up.
Thanks for the sub! It is very much appreciated.
i thought wide open was conventional certainly was when i was studying photography,mid 70’s, phones up until now has perhaps changed this. Grand video.
Thanks, Jan. People say not to shoot wide open because lenses are not at their sharpest, it's easy to miss focus, etc. I think the internet echo chamber has amplified the idea as well.
@@PeteCocoPhoto one has to be more focused when wider open
@@janstafford1490 it's easier to miss focus when wide open because the depth of field is so shallow.
@@PeteCocoPhoto that’s why i said one (the photographer) needs to be more focused on where they focus
Shooting wide open or stopped down is not good or bad. it depends the story and if there is one. Studio with a empty background you can do both, but if there is a product in de shot, you have to stop down so you get everything in focus. If you shoot on location and want to tell a story about where that person is, you cannot blur everything. I can name a lot of examples, but i think you get the point. when i started photography, as soon as i could afford an expensive lenses, i shot wide open all the time. but as i became better i started to notice that every situation requires a different aperture. also when editing a started to notice the benefits of shooting more things in focus. a lot of photos i made previous where just a blurry mess.
Yes context is key.
@@PeteCocoPhoto exactly, sorry english is not my native language. Anyway good video overal. I get what you’re saying. A lot of photographers are preaching not too shoot wide open. I say do what ever you want, thats the only way to learn and creating your own “style, look”.
@@MORTRAX Thanks! I agree - you have to experiment to find your own style and it's important to ignore convention, even if you wind up using the accepted wisdom at times, which I do quite often as well.
I'm a beginner so I don't really have a personal style yet. But, I think that you make decisions like this based upon what you want to achieve in the end. Many times when I've seen videos touting the need to stop down a bit it was in reference to fashion photography when the apparel client needs their product in focus. But, I definitely have seen it in reference to portraits as well. I was thinking that by placing your subject close to the background, your background won't be blown away to oblivion, it will just have nice separation. I also have the XF56mm and really like like it. Just need lots more practice before I feel comfortable about portraiture. Thanks for the info and have a great week. Going up to 60 degrees today in Lehigh VAlley, PA! Only 25 days until spring....
Thanks, Charlie! Yes, context is always key, but even in those situations where we are told that one should do XYZ, those rules can be stifling and in fact you will see the most prolific photographers break them all the time. Now, if I were shooting for a Gap ad, for instance, I would definitely want to stop down and make sure the products are in focus.
Pete, I usually shoot flash, not continous lights. At 1.4 one has to either use hss or nd filters. My strobes don't support hss, and i haven't found any nd filter that does NOT affect colour in a bad way :(.
Now I tried once a borrowed LED continous light, but I felt it is so bright, that it is a pain to look at, even at a low power output (but it makes a nice large iris). Do your clients don't feel uncomfortable with the bright light? How do you cope with that?
Thx for your ever so good content! Cheers from Germany, Peter
Great insights, thank you Peter! When I want to shoot wide open with flash, I definitely prefer HSS for the reasons you state regarding filters. I have a Nanlite FS-300 and for some of the photos in this tutorial I was at 1%. They get bright quick!
are you talking about shooting outside? otherwise you should be able to control the strobe output so you can use your camera's fastest non-HSS shutter and be just fine. what am i missing? and BTW my fave is my 70-200 2.8 because i love the compression and the look of that glass. i rented the 85mm 1.2 to see if i wanted to drop the money, and i couldn't see ANY reason i would prefer it. fussy focus. and RARELY wanted the DOF to be that shallow. 5dmkIV, mostly.
@@jshuimages Awesome, Jim. The 70-200 2.8 is one of the best ever! Yes, shooting outside with HSS is what I was primarily referring to. But in the studio, I prefer continuous since I can use any shutter speed I need to shoot wide open for this kind of portrait.
Let me start by saying that I like “convention”, I recently attended the annual plumbers convention in Atlantic City and I had a wonderful time, the food was great. Good video (and definitely food for though). Question, if after taking a portrait your customer tells you that they don’t like the shadow on the background and that they want everything in focus (from the tip of the nose to the back of the ears), would you re-shoot it or ask them (in a nice way) to go somewhere else, and is this a subject that you talk about with them ahead of time? It’s a good thing that I don’t have this problem/issue, I only photograph iguanas, butterflies and birds. Be well and stay safe Pete.
Hey Enrique! I've never had a client say anything about depth of field. I don't think they are looking at something like that. For them, it's either a cool photo or it isn't. But, I do offer my clients head and shoulders headshots as well as portraits, so after we create more "standard" headshots, we go for the creative portraits like I demoed here. This way they get the best of both worlds.
Good going!
Thanks!
6:16 Wow!
I Hear all the time these days Bokeh Bokeh shoot wide open,My 2 cents is be orginal as you said i agree with that attitude.I also agree those who love tearing others down many times are not very good theirselves.I Shoot narrow and wide f stop it basically depends on what look i want i change my looks up very very very often.I dont care about boring rules i just belive in making art your proud of and a client if they hire you they like your style =)
Couldn't agree more! It's all about making art that speaks to the viewer, whatever the technical details.
THANK YOU!!! Very interesting unconventional point of view on the studio portrait. Do you use any high speed sync flash? If yes... which one? Thank you so much!!
Hey Marco, thank you! Yes, I use Godox 200 flashes as well as continuous light in my studio. Generally I use high speed sync for outdoor shoots in the daytime.
@@PeteCocoPhoto Thank you!! Great!!
Only way I do it lol. If you buy GM lenses gotta USE em ;)
That’s what I’m saying haha
very informative i have 85mm 1.4 and 35mm 1.4 i think its high time i start shoot wide
Thanks! Definitely give it a try!
Your insights about online trolls is accurate. It's really disappointing when another supposed creative puts down someone else's piece of art.
Yep. The photo industry is crawling with them for some reason.
I am more technical for headshots but for portraits, I am along the lines of this video. I keep saying “I am the pineapple on pizza photographer”, I want to be different. One of the reasons I added Fuji to my collection, I didn’t want “the sharpest” or the “critically accurate colors” when I am shooting portraits. If everyone followed the same rules then where is the creativity?
Same here. When I take a headshot, it's usually around f/4, no color grading, etc. That's why I love the ability to get really creative for my portrait work.
great video, my favorite lens to shoot portraits is the sigma 105 art ef. i have it on my r3 with adapter.
Hey Mac, thank you! I have not tried the Sigma 105 but I have heard great things about it. Hopefully Canon will release companies to make third party lenses soon because that would be on my short list.
i have the ef version with canon converter on my r3 auto focus excellent@@PeteCocoPhoto
@@macwestcanon All of my old EF lenses work flawlessly on the R5, which is one way Canon has hit a home run. It makes the whole system more viable to me since you don't need RF lenses to get great performance.
Uhh, a lot of photographers use a substantially longer focal length to shoot portraits, so shooting at 1.4 on a 50mm is not the same as shooting 200mm at 2.8. And let's not forget that depth of field is dependent on focal length, aperture, and probably most importantly, the distance between you and your subject. I feel like your argument is just as disingenuous as those who say to never shoot wide open.
You lost me at “uhh”
BS.
Care to elaborate?