Bob, just now viewing your channel on your Tri-Five content since I'm now embarking on a 57 Chevy 2 door Belair Hardtop restoration. Your videos will certainly be valued reference material. Particularly this P/S upgrade and all the sheet metal works. Thanks!
(Bill)... THANKS! That's a big part of why I'm doing this. I'm not a professional and often am figuring things out on the fly, but I'm documenting everything that I run across and try my best to explain what it's taking for me to fix it with my tools and my abilities. Hope to have you stick around for the journey!
Now you have power steering you can convert to hydro boost breaks. I installed cpp c5 disk breaks on my Chevelle with hydro boost best upgrade ever and didn't cost an arm and a leg.
Like I said before...I made mine with the old 605 box cut and grind teeth off...works good...lot more work though....power steering is the way to go but it really shines when you add the 6 degrees of caster to it...but you need modified or after market A arms.... you'll feel the diffence going from manual to power...it'll be a treat
Six degrees! That's a LOT! I'll bet you turn the wheel and it goes immediately back to straight as soon as you let it go. I don't know how much caster I'll get out of the stock A-arms and ball joints. On the dirt stock car, I moved the upper ball joint on the driver's side back a quarter inch to pick up wedge to keep weight on the inside corner in the turns. I used to run a lot of caster stagger.
I've got to spend a couple of days tidying up loose ends on the metal work and then plan my sequence for finishing and reassembling. I was looking at the front inner fenders and firewall and thinking where the two-tone paint needs to go and what needs to be black. It's a sequencing jigsaw puzzle!
I still have the original steering on my 56. May have to look into this. My car has a 427, but I used the original type front mounts, made my own, and put them in the 6 cylinder holes. Mounted radiator in front of core support. Hope a kit like yours will work. But I guess I will need a new column? And I've heard some good stuff about hydroboost, instead of vac boost. Don't know yet. Good video. Fun getting new stuff in boxes and figuring out how to mount it! We are having fun now!! Thanks for what you do! :)
Noticed this on their website for that kit "California seamless frame cars call for recommendations." My 57 has the seamless frame, so be sure to read the fine print.
have a copy pump too. stay with the short water pump. keeps your alternator on the driver's side. long pumps alternator is on the passenger side. chevy changed in 69. Speedway Motors has some nice basic brakes sets.
I'm pretty sure I'll stick with the short pump. I'm going to order the A/C kit and will try to find the holy-grail of headers that will clear everything. I'll have to mock all of that up before committing to anything.
@@RestoringChristine1956 I bought a set of Speedway brand mid length or Clipster ceramic headers very nice. If interested pm me and I can send you pictures.
Awesome another great video, I rebuilt my engine last winter I should have installed power steering with the engine out, I put disk brakes on the front and a posi rear end. Can you put power steering on with engine in? I got headers on I feel like it’s gonna be tight.
I'm genuinely concerned about fitting in headers. I still have the transmission horns and use the front engine mounts. A lot of header manufacturers route their tubes right through the frame horns. The pair that I took off fit with the factory steering box, but they have pinholes. I think I'm going to try a set of Sandersons.
Thanks! Probably not for a while. I have to get it painted and will then turn my attention to the motor. My guess is that I'll do the front linkage and power steering when I install the motor, but that's quite a few months away.
Hi Bill. You may find that you will have to get new headers . Yours may not be compatible. Oh yeah tank styles are determined by the brackets. I bought gear only and my brackets are Billet specialties.
This looks like a snake in the weeds that I wasn't very aware of. My headers are old and are 4-bolt collars on the collectors. I was planning to replace them anyway. Now I'm reading online and seeing all sorts of issues with clearing the transmission frame horns, the starter, the pitman arm, and (of course) the steering box. I don't know which way I'm going to go, but I'm consulting with the Google as much as I can.
Since buying the kit, I've been researching the clearance issues, and there seem to be a couple of headers that will clear by 1/4" or with a bit if grinding on the box. Hate to do that, but we've just got to make it work.
@@RestoringChristine1956 Yeah I've done a little of that. 1 guy said to put side motor mounts on and move the engine over a little. I might put the stock manifolds on.
You can get away with a lot of caster because the power steering overrides the return force to some extent.....you have to minimize body roll as much as possible..I even thought about those frame stiffing tubes to stop flex... but then I have to tell myself I'm not gonna autocross it....or am I 🤔
Its nice that you did the in depth explanation of the steering kit.
Thanks! I think this will be useful to anyone that is considering the kit.
Bob, just now viewing your channel on your Tri-Five content since I'm now embarking on a 57 Chevy 2 door Belair Hardtop restoration. Your videos will certainly be valued reference material. Particularly this P/S upgrade and all the sheet metal works. Thanks!
(Bill)... THANKS! That's a big part of why I'm doing this. I'm not a professional and often am figuring things out on the fly, but I'm documenting everything that I run across and try my best to explain what it's taking for me to fix it with my tools and my abilities. Hope to have you stick around for the journey!
@RestoringChristine1956 Thanks for all you do Bill !
Great video.
Gonna throw one in my 57’
I just installed the steering box on the frame and hooked up all the tie rods and drag links in Episode 121: ruclips.net/video/bk_6oTrHWIQ/видео.html
Now you have power steering you can convert to hydro boost breaks. I installed cpp c5 disk breaks on my Chevelle with hydro boost best upgrade ever and didn't cost an arm and a leg.
I'll have to look that up!
Like I said before...I made mine with the old 605 box cut and grind teeth off...works good...lot more work though....power steering is the way to go but it really shines when you add the 6 degrees of caster to it...but you need modified or after market A arms.... you'll feel the diffence going from manual to power...it'll be a treat
Six degrees! That's a LOT! I'll bet you turn the wheel and it goes immediately back to straight as soon as you let it go. I don't know how much caster I'll get out of the stock A-arms and ball joints. On the dirt stock car, I moved the upper ball joint on the driver's side back a quarter inch to pick up wedge to keep weight on the inside corner in the turns. I used to run a lot of caster stagger.
Looks like it's coming together nicely 👌
I've got to spend a couple of days tidying up loose ends on the metal work and then plan my sequence for finishing and reassembling. I was looking at the front inner fenders and firewall and thinking where the two-tone paint needs to go and what needs to be black. It's a sequencing jigsaw puzzle!
I still have the original steering on my 56. May have to look into this. My car has a 427, but I used the original type front mounts, made my own, and put them in the 6 cylinder holes. Mounted radiator in front of core support. Hope a kit like yours will work. But I guess I will need a new column? And I've heard some good stuff about hydroboost, instead of vac boost. Don't know yet. Good video. Fun getting new stuff in boxes and figuring out how to mount it! We are having fun now!! Thanks for what you do! :)
Big block... I cam only imagine that the clearance issue might be worse, but maybe not. Fingers crossed!
I'm also in Louisiana and working to put this kit in my 67 Camaro. Very helpful video. Thank you.
Cool! Glad it was helpful!
Noticed this on their website for that kit "California seamless frame cars call for recommendations." My 57 has the seamless frame, so be sure to read the fine print.
Can't imagine what that might be, but the box is definitely bigger. Plenty of reports of it conflicting with headers of all brands and configurations.
have a copy pump too. stay with the short water pump. keeps your alternator on the driver's side. long pumps alternator is on the passenger side. chevy changed in 69. Speedway Motors has some nice basic brakes sets.
I'm pretty sure I'll stick with the short pump. I'm going to order the A/C kit and will try to find the holy-grail of headers that will clear everything. I'll have to mock all of that up before committing to anything.
@@RestoringChristine1956 I bought a set of Speedway brand mid length or Clipster ceramic headers very nice. If interested pm me and I can send you pictures.
That was supposed to say bracket sets. Lol
Awesome another great video, I rebuilt my engine last winter I should have installed power steering with the engine out, I put disk brakes on the front and a posi rear end. Can you put power steering on with engine in? I got headers on I feel like it’s gonna be tight.
I'm genuinely concerned about fitting in headers. I still have the transmission horns and use the front engine mounts. A lot of header manufacturers route their tubes right through the frame horns. The pair that I took off fit with the factory steering box, but they have pinholes. I think I'm going to try a set of Sandersons.
Remember, the old steering box was made with American steel. Probably way stronger.
That box is 60 years old and was still spinning, so you've got a good point!
great vids man when you going to upload the updated power steering box install video lol
Thanks! Probably not for a while. I have to get it painted and will then turn my attention to the motor. My guess is that I'll do the front linkage and power steering when I install the motor, but that's quite a few months away.
Hi Bill. You may find that you will have to get new headers . Yours may not be compatible. Oh yeah tank styles are determined by the brackets. I bought gear only and my brackets are Billet specialties.
This looks like a snake in the weeds that I wasn't very aware of. My headers are old and are 4-bolt collars on the collectors. I was planning to replace them anyway. Now I'm reading online and seeing all sorts of issues with clearing the transmission frame horns, the starter, the pitman arm, and (of course) the steering box. I don't know which way I'm going to go, but I'm consulting with the Google as much as I can.
merci !
I installed a Borgeson and I'm having clearance problems. It's tight between the exhaust and is hitting the gear box.
Since buying the kit, I've been researching the clearance issues, and there seem to be a couple of headers that will clear by 1/4" or with a bit if grinding on the box. Hate to do that, but we've just got to make it work.
@@RestoringChristine1956 Yeah I've done a little of that. 1 guy said to put side motor mounts on and move the engine over a little. I might put the stock manifolds on.
You can get away with a lot of caster because the power steering overrides the return force to some extent.....you have to minimize body roll as much as possible..I even thought about those frame stiffing tubes to stop flex... but then I have to tell myself I'm not gonna autocross it....or am I 🤔
I often run into the issue where one of the bolts is completely snugged up against the frame mount, wanting more space than what the mount will allow.