I'm looking forward to the next part. Ehm, you can easily get rid of the sharp edge on the sheet metal parts. Simply pull a knife over it. Don't cut it off, spread it more like butter. And don't use the good kitchen knives 😁 I'm keeping my fingers crossed for the challenge here
I was looking forward to this video! Fun and informative. I don't have a telescope yet but I will definitely need to mod it for transportation (handles are a good idea) and I'm looking into setting circles too, they seem really useful.
Now THIS is what DIY is supposed to be!! Every other DIY-er (hmmm...guess I've never seen that word typed out before 😅) is all; "For this mod, you'll need this $250..." 😳 ummm...nope! Thank you SO much for this!!!!
Another source for handles, in this case black plastic handles, could be trowels - inexpensive drywall trowels or V-notch trowels - from your local home center. A little larger than the metal ones you added, but sort of softer and more comfortable. And, bonus, they come with a drilling template! (The trowel blade itself). Typically they cost less than $4.00 or so. I've used them to replace the missing front handle and when I had to recreate in Baltic birch an Orion Dob base that had succumbed to water and hard handling.
@@AstronomyGarage good stuff! Good content as always. In my opinion, Mods are essential to make these Telescopes 200% better. Also the personalization Factor with Modding on these Mass Products are what makes you bond with them so nicely and enjoy even long observing Nights. Without Mods and personal Improvements i would not worship my 12inch dob like i do now. It is a Beast and it takes a Big Corner near my Balcony, but it deserves it ;) So far i added Light Shield on the Opening, Telrad (and DIY Dew shields), Balance weights.. and if youre bored you can always tinker or add Stuff for your Ocular Case.
I use digital clinometer, more precise. Adjustable foot. And a Brunton style compass. The compass level bubble helps me adjust the telescope level, and I use it for azimuth (1° precision). This setup costs 40$. I can point anything with digital clinometer and compass (you can set declination very easy). No irreversible modification.
Sky watcher dobs have handles either side, they double as the attachment to the base and as tensioners. You can also screw them back into the removed tube assy to carry it easier and stop it rolling on a car seat or in the boot.
Have fun. I was going to get into cost in the summary video, but they wanted $32 for mine (22 inches in diameter). The Express service cost an extra $9.
Another great video. Touching on a couple of these measures, 1- Would attaching the pointer with one of the foot bolts keep it protected a bit, where it wouldn't "flop" as much underneath the base (or possibly catch on things when moving it around at night), or would it take too much adjustability (is that a word?) out of it? Item 2, As for the az pivot, these things do get "sticky" over time. Overshooting happens more often closer to azmuth, and it's irritating. I got some larger (2" round) teflon pads for my XT8 to "spread the load". I haven't installed them yet, as they're a bit thicker than the ones on the scope. Old CDs at the pivot should work great, and they could be stacked to match the thickness. That project is on the list, and my wife won't miss her Joan Baez records (wink wink). I might also use pastewax and wax the perimeter of the other base section, where the teflon makes contact. It lasts for years on wooden drawer slides and I already have it. On an Apertura AD12, the az pivot is a Lazy Susan with a version of needle bearings. It moves a bit too easily. What I did for that was install felt furniture pads to just remove free play and add some gentle resistance without the hard start. I started with four pads, but it seemed a bit stiff. I removed two and it's perfect. I used one of the removed ones as the tube bump stop on the base frame, for when it's tilted vertically for storage. I'm careful handling it, but it's added protection, just in case. The extra handles on the base for lugging it around is a great idea.... on the XT8, there are large gaps on the side pieces besides the handle on front. It's easy for even an old guy like me to lift and move around. The AD12 doesn't have them, and I'll probably skip installing extra handles... it's a heavy beast that must be moved in sections. The previous owner got a tube strap, and that makes moving it doable in two pieces. I am going to do casters to improve things, but I think it'll be a flat cart separate from the base. I can have knurled knobs or wingnuts on bolts to completely remove it if necessary, but I think the flexibility of deciding whether they live on the scope or not warrants a piece of plywood. ....oh, in my opinion, all added pieces will be installed with bolts, washers, and nuts. As you mentioned, sometimes the eyepiece tray gets ripped out of the particle board. That was the case with my AD12. The previous owner reinstalled on a thin piece of wood screwed on, and it's also broken. Machine screws (small bolts) with washers keeps that from happening again. Casters would definitely pull out unless through bolted (ask me how I know...). ANYWAY, thanks for another fun and useful video. Love your channel.
You could definitely use the wheel mount screws. Fortunately, there are several ways to attach the pointer. The only catch is that it needs to be somewhat adjustable. I've seen people use wires, nails, lasers, etc. One clever method is to mount it on the lower plate and drill a "viewing window" on the top plate. REgarding the friction, I cut out quite a bit due to length. I tried using RainX (no real change) and candle wax - that made it MUCH WORSE.... and it was really hard to clean off. As with your 12 inch Dob, my 12 inch Dob uses a lazy susan too. It actually has too little friction, so that can sometimes be a problem. Thank YOU for watching!
when i had my dobsonian for the bearing i used teflon heat sheet (ones they used for heat pressing desins on shirts) and formica work top look at an article from sky and telescope an article from martin lewis improving telescope motion
That's a good idea. I thought about doing that - I priced buying a giant sheet (24" x 24") of thin Teflon, but it was pretty expensive, roughly $80 with shipping. Thank you for the Martin Lewis tip!
Cool, il y a de très bonnes idées dans cette vidéo. Je suis sur le point de me construire une nouvelle base, je viens de découvrir d'autres améliorations pour mon petit projet. MERCI !!!
I fixed the stiction on my Orion XT8 by installing a Rockler Slimline Lazy Susan that I found online. It cost about $16 plus shipping and was super easy to install (just add a little sleeve to fit it to the center bolt). Worth every penny!
Great show John. Good to see you fixed that 10 inch tub up like you wanted. I think a 8 inch aperture is better for me. Would likely Put setting circles on one with enough real estate to put it on. I use AstroHopper now n then. I only see the moon Jupiter n Saturn now n then. Clear sky's.
I still use my 8 inch Dob quite a bit. It's almost perfect regarding price, portability, ease of use, etc. It's what I always recommend. I got this 10" Dob super cheap, but of course, it's cost a lot of time and effort to get it back up to working order (and still more to come). By the way, you can put a 78 vinyl album on most 8 inch Dobs (wider than the standard 33 1/3 albums), but you'll need to move the Teflon pads in about an inch or so. Clear skies!
When n if I up to a 8 inch I'm going with a setting circle and digital alt, on it. I see if I can find a used one first. Maybe I will shoot for a Apertura with the 2 speed focuser and have a quality one.
Lots of people add locking casters to their dob bases. Do the casters result in extra play or increased vibration or slower damping when aiming the scope?
Good question. With the locking castors, I try to angle the wheels radially so that they sortof lock the base from moving. Depending on the stiction in the azimuth base, there could be some movement, but it's not very noticeable.
Great question. I had to think about this one. I suspect that you still need the numbers to increase in a counterclockwise direction because East is still 90 degrees and south is still 180 degrees, etc. If you give it a try and find otherwise, please let me know. Clear skies!
Thank you, Joseph. Admittedly, I wasn't aware that viewers could send gifts. I just learned something! Again, thank you. I hope you find the videos fun.
I know that this video is a few weeks old...but can you tell me what the diameter of the 12"dobsonian that you had printed out for yours? Now I know that not all are the same, but my 12" Apetura Dobsonian says the base diameter is 24.88" so I asked Staples and they said their limit was 24" and that i would need to try at another place. Did you take your protractor print somewhere else and if so, where? And, if need be, the person at Staples asked if I really needed to have it at 24.88" and could I get away with it being only 24"X24"??What do you think?
When I made the setting circle for my big 12 inch Dobsonian, the diameter was wider than 24 inches. Staples was able to print out the circle full size, but they could not laminate it due to the 24 inch limitation. I had to take it to a poster company that had a large lamination machine. They did it for like $10 which I thought was super cheap. NOTE: Bring a ruler when you pick up the print from Staples. On a few occasions, they have auto-scaled it down to something less than the full size print... and had to do it over again.
@@AstronomyGarage thank you for your quick response… I really appreciate it! I will take it to a print shop and see what happens… I really do like the idea of placing the protractor print on the base of my dobsonian… I think it would come in handy for quicker locations… again, Thank Tou!
None of the above. They were pinched between the disc and the upper structure (screwed down). However, to address the curled edges, I used clear packing tape.
My question is are the caster wheels when locked really as stable and what about if you need to shim the wheels to level the telescope? I have also seen a hand truck mod for moving dobs around. I'm trying to decide which transport method would be better.
All good questions. I too was worried about how steady it would be. I used it over the weekend and it was steady as a rock. I pointed the wheels out and locked the castors. When I'm trying to level it, I use a couple of 2x4 blocks and some thin plywood shims I have for fine-tuning. If you watch my big 14" Dob restoration video ( ruclips.net/video/LHiVTcThwW8/видео.html ), I build a massive custom trolly with leveling screws.
Hasn’t this been uploaded before? I’ve seen your previous video talking bout setting circle and handles. BTW are you working on the power seeker scope? I’m looking forward to it.
This is all new, but I have covered setting circles in an old video - this one has more detail. I am working on an indepth two part series about the Celestron 127 EQ Powerseeker. Thank you for watching!
I dont understand the desire for wheels. If you ran that across a parking lot, wouldn't the vibrations cause issues? And of course dirt and grass negate the use of the wheels altogether.
If you have big wheels, it really doesn't mess up the collimation very much. The wheels are for inner city or suburban usage. If you're out where there is grass and dirt, then you wouldn't need wheels.
Bloacklayer is fantastic. I have used it for years as a carpenter for setting out roof rafters. Great video, thanks for sharing.
I'm looking forward to the next part.
Ehm, you can easily get rid of the sharp edge on the sheet metal parts. Simply pull a knife over it. Don't cut it off, spread it more like butter. And don't use the good kitchen knives 😁
I'm keeping my fingers crossed for the challenge here
Thanks! I may try to do that because the tape is coming off.
I was looking forward to this video! Fun and informative. I don't have a telescope yet but I will definitely need to mod it for transportation (handles are a good idea) and I'm looking into setting circles too, they seem really useful.
Another trick is to use a compact disc, in some cases 2 are needed.
It greatly improves the azimuth smoothness
Now THIS is what DIY is supposed to be!! Every other DIY-er (hmmm...guess I've never seen that word typed out before 😅) is all; "For this mod, you'll need this $250..." 😳 ummm...nope! Thank you SO much for this!!!!
Glad you liked it! Cheap is my driving mantra.
Most practical Dob video I have seen. Thank You !
Thank you. I hope it was helpful for you.
I just started using a 10" dobsonian and I can't tell you how useful this will be. Thanks so much!
Welcome to the big Dobsonian club, lol - enjoy the heck out of that thing. I'm glad the video was helpful. Clear skies!
Another source for handles, in this case black plastic handles, could be trowels - inexpensive drywall trowels or V-notch trowels - from your local home center. A little larger than the metal ones you added, but sort of softer and more comfortable. And, bonus, they come with a drilling template! (The trowel blade itself). Typically they cost less than $4.00 or so. I've used them to replace the missing front handle and when I had to recreate in Baltic birch an Orion Dob base that had succumbed to water and hard handling.
Thanks! The handles that I have been using are irrationally expensive for the materials they are made of.
can u do more mods? light shield, darkening up the View, Laser finder, observing stool DIY ect.
Absolutely. The next video is all about improvements to the tube itself.
@@AstronomyGarage good stuff! Good content as always.
In my opinion, Mods are essential to make these Telescopes 200% better.
Also the personalization Factor with Modding on these Mass Products are what makes you bond with them so nicely and enjoy even long observing Nights. Without Mods and personal Improvements i would not worship my 12inch dob like i do now.
It is a Beast and it takes a Big Corner near my Balcony, but it deserves it ;)
So far i added Light Shield on the Opening, Telrad (and DIY Dew shields), Balance weights.. and if youre bored you can always tinker or add Stuff for your Ocular Case.
I use digital clinometer, more precise. Adjustable foot.
And a Brunton style compass.
The compass level bubble helps me adjust the telescope level, and I use it for azimuth (1° precision). This setup costs 40$.
I can point anything with digital clinometer and compass (you can set declination very easy).
No irreversible modification.
Sky watcher dobs have handles either side, they double as the attachment to the base and as tensioners. You can also screw them back into the removed tube assy to carry it easier and stop it rolling on a car seat or in the boot.
Going to fabricate a setting circle now you taught me a great way to do it
Have fun. I was going to get into cost in the summary video, but they wanted $32 for mine (22 inches in diameter). The Express service cost an extra $9.
Another good one Mr. John
Thank you kindly! Let's hope these DFW clouds go away soon.
Great Video‼️ Looking forward to the next one 💯
Hope it was helpful. Clear skies!
Another great video. Touching on a couple of these measures, 1- Would attaching the pointer with one of the foot bolts keep it protected a bit, where it wouldn't "flop" as much underneath the base (or possibly catch on things when moving it around at night), or would it take too much adjustability (is that a word?) out of it? Item 2, As for the az pivot, these things do get "sticky" over time. Overshooting happens more often closer to azmuth, and it's irritating. I got some larger (2" round) teflon pads for my XT8 to "spread the load". I haven't installed them yet, as they're a bit thicker than the ones on the scope. Old CDs at the pivot should work great, and they could be stacked to match the thickness. That project is on the list, and my wife won't miss her Joan Baez records (wink wink). I might also use pastewax and wax the perimeter of the other base section, where the teflon makes contact. It lasts for years on wooden drawer slides and I already have it. On an Apertura AD12, the az pivot is a Lazy Susan with a version of needle bearings. It moves a bit too easily. What I did for that was install felt furniture pads to just remove free play and add some gentle resistance without the hard start. I started with four pads, but it seemed a bit stiff. I removed two and it's perfect. I used one of the removed ones as the tube bump stop on the base frame, for when it's tilted vertically for storage. I'm careful handling it, but it's added protection, just in case. The extra handles on the base for lugging it around is a great idea.... on the XT8, there are large gaps on the side pieces besides the handle on front. It's easy for even an old guy like me to lift and move around. The AD12 doesn't have them, and I'll probably skip installing extra handles... it's a heavy beast that must be moved in sections. The previous owner got a tube strap, and that makes moving it doable in two pieces. I am going to do casters to improve things, but I think it'll be a flat cart separate from the base. I can have knurled knobs or wingnuts on bolts to completely remove it if necessary, but I think the flexibility of deciding whether they live on the scope or not warrants a piece of plywood. ....oh, in my opinion, all added pieces will be installed with bolts, washers, and nuts. As you mentioned, sometimes the eyepiece tray gets ripped out of the particle board. That was the case with my AD12. The previous owner reinstalled on a thin piece of wood screwed on, and it's also broken. Machine screws (small bolts) with washers keeps that from happening again. Casters would definitely pull out unless through bolted (ask me how I know...). ANYWAY, thanks for another fun and useful video. Love your channel.
You could definitely use the wheel mount screws. Fortunately, there are several ways to attach the pointer. The only catch is that it needs to be somewhat adjustable. I've seen people use wires, nails, lasers, etc. One clever method is to mount it on the lower plate and drill a "viewing window" on the top plate. REgarding the friction, I cut out quite a bit due to length. I tried using RainX (no real change) and candle wax - that made it MUCH WORSE.... and it was really hard to clean off. As with your 12 inch Dob, my 12 inch Dob uses a lazy susan too. It actually has too little friction, so that can sometimes be a problem. Thank YOU for watching!
Well isnt that a cute little dobsonian
Haha, it was fun to print. Clear skies!
Ha! Nobody has commented yet on your power scissors. DeWalt? :-)
Haha, that was a fun sound effect, lol.
when i had my dobsonian for the bearing i used teflon heat sheet (ones they used for heat pressing desins on shirts) and formica work top look at an article from sky and telescope an article from martin lewis improving telescope motion
That's a good idea. I thought about doing that - I priced buying a giant sheet (24" x 24") of thin Teflon, but it was pretty expensive, roughly $80 with shipping. Thank you for the Martin Lewis tip!
Cool, il y a de très bonnes idées dans cette vidéo. Je suis sur le point de me construire une nouvelle base, je viens de découvrir d'autres améliorations pour mon petit projet. MERCI !!!
Merci d'avoir regardé. Bonne chance avec votre nouvelle base. Ciel clair!
I fixed the stiction on my Orion XT8 by installing a Rockler Slimline Lazy Susan that I found online. It cost about $16 plus shipping and was super easy to install (just add a little sleeve to fit it to the center bolt). Worth every penny!
Thank you for that tip! I was afraid the 10" base would be too large for a lazy susan. How do you keep it from being too frictionless?
@@AstronomyGarage ...(felt furniture pads).
Great show John. Good to see you fixed that 10 inch tub up like you wanted. I think a 8 inch aperture is better for me. Would likely Put setting circles on one with enough real estate to put it on. I use AstroHopper now n then. I only see the moon Jupiter n Saturn now n then. Clear sky's.
I still use my 8 inch Dob quite a bit. It's almost perfect regarding price, portability, ease of use, etc. It's what I always recommend. I got this 10" Dob super cheap, but of course, it's cost a lot of time and effort to get it back up to working order (and still more to come). By the way, you can put a 78 vinyl album on most 8 inch Dobs (wider than the standard 33 1/3 albums), but you'll need to move the Teflon pads in about an inch or so. Clear skies!
When n if I up to a 8 inch I'm going with a setting circle and digital alt, on it. I see if I can find a used one first. Maybe I will shoot for a Apertura with the 2 speed focuser and have a quality one.
Great now I need a tiny xt10 model
You can do it!
Put some optics in it, and a tiny focuser with 3mm barrel eyepieces
Lots of people add locking casters to their dob bases. Do the casters result in extra play or increased vibration or slower damping when aiming the scope?
Good question. With the locking castors, I try to angle the wheels radially so that they sortof lock the base from moving. Depending on the stiction in the azimuth base, there could be some movement, but it's not very noticeable.
Formica 909-42 Black Crystal is a very good substitute for the original Ebony Star material. A quick rub with bar soap on that and you are good to go!
Thank you for this tip! Clear skies! :)
You should print that mini 3d printed dob in matte filament, for best contrast. :)
very cool John thx for this video
Thanks for watching, Joe.
i worked at a chemical company, and some of the raw material drums had plastic lids. that's what I used to reduce friction.
That's a very clever re-use of material!
Another informative vid. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Farpoint astro has a teflon kit that has a center piece and F.R.B. for an ebony star alternative get at any big box store works great
Thanks! What is an FRB?
@reflactor fiberglass reinforced board,it's used as a wall covering a lot really thin.
If you are in the southern hemisphere do the numbers on the setting circle need to increase clockwise?
Great question. I had to think about this one. I suspect that you still need the numbers to increase in a counterclockwise direction because East is still 90 degrees and south is still 180 degrees, etc. If you give it a try and find otherwise, please let me know. Clear skies!
Thanks!
Thank you, Joseph. Admittedly, I wasn't aware that viewers could send gifts. I just learned something! Again, thank you. I hope you find the videos fun.
I know that this video is a few weeks old...but can you tell me what the diameter of the 12"dobsonian that you had printed out for yours? Now I know that not all are the same, but my 12" Apetura Dobsonian says the base diameter is 24.88" so I asked Staples and they said their limit was 24" and that i would need to try at another place. Did you take your protractor print somewhere else and if so, where? And, if need be, the person at Staples asked if I really needed to have it at 24.88" and could I get away with it being only 24"X24"??What do you think?
Sorry, I noticed that peoples comments are a lot older than a few weeks...is this a repost of an older video?
When I made the setting circle for my big 12 inch Dobsonian, the diameter was wider than 24 inches. Staples was able to print out the circle full size, but they could not laminate it due to the 24 inch limitation. I had to take it to a poster company that had a large lamination machine. They did it for like $10 which I thought was super cheap. NOTE: Bring a ruler when you pick up the print from Staples. On a few occasions, they have auto-scaled it down to something less than the full size print... and had to do it over again.
@@AstronomyGarage thank you for your quick response… I really appreciate it! I will take it to a print shop and see what happens… I really do like the idea of placing the protractor print on the base of my dobsonian… I think it would come in handy for quicker locations… again, Thank Tou!
Did you use glue or contact cement to attach the setting circle? I used the same process and find that mine curled dup.
None of the above. They were pinched between the disc and the upper structure (screwed down). However, to address the curled edges, I used clear packing tape.
My question is are the caster wheels when locked really as stable and what about if you need to shim the wheels to level the telescope? I have also seen a hand truck mod for moving dobs around. I'm trying to decide which transport method would be better.
All good questions. I too was worried about how steady it would be. I used it over the weekend and it was steady as a rock. I pointed the wheels out and locked the castors. When I'm trying to level it, I use a couple of 2x4 blocks and some thin plywood shims I have for fine-tuning. If you watch my big 14" Dob restoration video ( ruclips.net/video/LHiVTcThwW8/видео.html ), I build a massive custom trolly with leveling screws.
Hasn’t this been uploaded before? I’ve seen your previous video talking bout setting circle and handles. BTW are you working on the power seeker scope? I’m looking forward to it.
This is all new, but I have covered setting circles in an old video - this one has more detail. I am working on an indepth two part series about the Celestron 127 EQ Powerseeker. Thank you for watching!
@@AstronomyGarage glory be!
Why not one CD at the axle and three more in a triangle glued to the base?
Hmmm, I'm afraid I don't quite understand. The gap was about 3/8 of an inch.
I dont understand the desire for wheels. If you ran that across a parking lot, wouldn't the vibrations cause issues? And of course dirt and grass negate the use of the wheels altogether.
If you have big wheels, it really doesn't mess up the collimation very much. The wheels are for inner city or suburban usage. If you're out where there is grass and dirt, then you wouldn't need wheels.
Or, they just didn’t think of it
Great stuff, but please stop using the silly music!
Thank you for watching. I have been lowering the volume on music pretty steadily over the years.