Dent Watkins 2 days ago (edited) @Songs From The Saddle , I'm not a great fan of the paper filter on the suction side of the pump. The pumps fitted to Triumphs, whether the original plunger type or the Morgo rotary type, are good for pushing oil round the system but work best with minimal restriction to the pump. They are not designed to suck through a filter, hence the wire mesh strainer. You mentioned somewhere here that there is atmospheric pressure pushing the oil through the filter to the pump but with the filter on the return line it is being pushed through by the scavenge pump which is a much safer option. Another advantage to fitting it on the return is that it takes any suspended particles out of the oil before they get into the rest of the oil system so it keeps the whole system clean. The engine is where those particles are produced so it makes sense to remove them at the earliest opportunity on the way out. The mesh in the bottom of the tank isn't the filter for the oil system, just a strainer or "bolt catcher" for any debris such as paint flakes, wayward springs, small family pets or whatever that might accidentally find its way into the tank. Filtration is carried out by the infamous sludge trap which is actually a very effective centrifugal oil filter. Just have a look inside the crank when the sludge trap tube is being removed for cleaning and you'll easily see how much carbon combustion by product and fine metallic particles it catches. The only problem with it is the fact that it requires a full engine strip to clean it and people are understandably not keen to do that. When the engine was first designed, routine maintenance was an accepted part of ownership but in recent years owners have become used to the longer service intervals with modern foreign machinery and want a similar thing with their Triumphs. If the engine is stripped, the sludge trap removed, cleaned and refitted, then a clean rebuild is carried out (engine, frame tube/tank and hoses spotless) with a spin-on filter fitted in the return line you should be able to keep the oil and the sludge trap clean too. Incidentally, Fiat 126s, those funny little boxy Italian cars made from the early 70s through to 2000, had a similar sized engine and were also fitted with a centrifugal oil filter. Theirs was a lot easier to clean though. It was inside the front pulley on the crankshaft where the fan belt ran and all you had to do to clean it was undo the ring of 6 bolts to remove the cover plate, hook the sludge out with a screwdriver, wash the last bits out with a paint brush/tooth brush (preferably someone else's) and some paraffin and it was time to put the cover back on. A ten minute job and no filters to buy. Easy life!
Perfect! I was just about to do this job on my '79 T140E and whilst I appreciate it shouldin theory be easy, I had a quick look to see if there was a video, just to be sure, and found this! Thanks!
I hope my video is helpful Ian. It's an easy job. I just changed my oil and fitted a new paper filter 3 days ago and without filming it, it took only about 20 minutes.
I just went to Amazon and bought a pack of 100 mascara brushes for 5 bucks. Seems better than using my finger to put gasket sealer on. I just got a 78 T140 in a partial trade/sale. Doing some basic work on it, carb cleaning, replacing fuel lines, fluids and the throttle cable.
To complete an engine oil change on a T140, you also need to remove the crankcase drain plug, which incorporates the scavenge pick up strainer, allow it to drain, clean the strainer and refit. Once you have refilled the oil reservoir, you need to start the engine and run at idle until the oil can be seen returning steadily from the pipe inside the filler neck. For the first couple of minutes, the oil level will drop by a couple of inches, until all the oilways in the system are full and it's reached its natural level. Only then can you make a final top up and replace the cap. I installed one of those paper filter conversions on my T140 about 20 years ago, but I took it a stage further: as it is in the suction side of the oil circuit, to be absolutely sure there was enough oil flow through the filter, I modified mine with a longer piece of studding, so that it takes 2 of the elements, stacked one on top of the other. For the extra £10 a year, I think it's worth it for peace of mind. I make my own gaskets, from 1/32" (0.8mm) gasket paper, and fit them with just a smear of grease on both sides, so they won't stick the next time. They have never leaked and all it takes to clean the surfaces is a wipe. The filter elements were originally a BSA part, for the B50, etc. I believe the part number was 19-4589, also 99-1179.
Hi Rick. Many thanks for taking the time to make these constructive and very helpful comments to add to my video. I made this and other similar videos purely to try and help others out, and so the more information and tips the better. Maybe next time I do an oil change on the T140 I'll make a video of the full process, including cleaning the strainer. This video was obviously just focusing on fitting the paper filter.
I was watching a RUclips awhile back & it was said that on automobiles at some speeds the oil actual bypasses the filter? I have a 1973 Tiger 750. I put on an Oil cooler years ago. I.use original oil screens & one at bottom of tank has not been removed or cleaned in years. I figure if the oil drains it is ok. I change oil every 1000 miles or before winter storage. I have 63,500 miles & it still runs good.
Nice job, the fitting of a proper disposable paper oil filter is certainly the number one most worthwhile modification that can be done to most old British bikes. The standard factory design of a simple mesh strainer at the bottom of the oil tank or sump with the oil pickup sitting below the strainer right at the lowest point, just where all the muck and particles are heading as most of it all passes through the mesh strainer, is the worst possible setup regardless of how often the oil is changed. Just because BSA, Triumph and others chose to do it that way doesn't mean it was much good. Personally I prefer the oil filter to be fitted on the oil tank return line, this not only fills the oil tank with effectively filtered oil that protects the feed pump, big ends and any plain type crank bearing used on some old Brit bikes, but it also filters the oil flowing to the rockers which drains onto the cams and followers. Plus the oil is forced through the filter by the scavenge pump. But the paper filter in the bottom of the oil tank that you are using is still a very good established method, and it is the simplest way of improving the oil filtration on a bike such as the T140, I seem to recall these becoming available in the very early 1980's. I would just ensure that the oil does flow freely through the filter, particularly in very cold weather, when the bike is first started. After an oil change there can also be a pocket of air trapped below the filter when the oil tank is refilled, this can also sometimes happen with the standard steel mesh strainer, which causes a slight delay in oil reaching the pump and big ends. After refilling the oil tank I used to remove the drain plug again, and there would often be a short delay as the trapped air escaped before any oil appeared. I bought my first T140 way back in 1983 when just an 18 year old lad, BKW 167T with just 1200 miles on the clock. I made a steel housing to take a small paper oil filter that was used on Suzuki's GS125 model. I plumbed the filter housing into the oil tank return line before the take off point to the rockers, and it was small enough to just fit under a side panel. Breaking open the paper filter element after just 800 miles revealed an alarming amount of particles trapped there, some relatively large, that had all passed straight through the useless standard engine sump strainer. The amount of particles caught in each paper filter decreases over time as more of the crap is removed at oil and filter change and is not left in the system to simply recirculate. Sorry if I have blabbed on a bit too much, but carry on the good work, I've always been a fan of the T140 having owned three over the years, the second was an ex police bike with the AV frame with rubber mounted engine, the last was a nice untouched electric start model JHE 310W. Ah! Fond memories of them all.
I have a 1973 Tiger 750 that I purchased in 1977. I have always changed my oil every 1000 miles or before putting away for the Winter. I still only have the mesh screen & have 63,000 miles on bike. I did put an oil cooler on years ago. The inline filter sounds good & is probably easy to replace. I have not cleaned my mesh screen in years - I figure if the oil drains it should be ok? I have been thinking about replacing the oil lines, but I am unsure of what type of rubber lines to use? My old lines do not have any markings.
Hey I like your videos I purchased a filter plate for my 77 bonneville but on the new plate it has a o ring on the drain plug not a copper washer. I have not installed it yet but do you think the o ring will be good enough or should I put a copper washer on it ? Thanks
They have these great little things these days called "funnels" which are great for pouring liquids like oil and not spilling them all over the place. Go down the hardware shop and get one, you won't regret it!
Nice video! I just put one of these on my '79 T140 and realized that when my centerstand is up it hits the acorn nut in the center of the plate. And it actually smacks it pretty hard when you take the bike off the centerstand, not just a slight rub. Anyone else run into this? Or am I missing a stop for the centerstand that would keep it from hitting? Any suggestions?
Why go to paper filter from reusable stock mesh one , what benefits are gained ? New to the English bike scene , i Just won a 1977 Bonneville with 6,000 orig mi , @ Brit jam bike show here in Connecticut two weeks ago & she's a beauty... The best $10 i ever spent lol , winning !
Benefits of paper filter? Better filtration, therefore less engine wear. Not necessary, of course , as they were designed to use mesh filter, but with very frequent oil changes (1,500 miles). Technology has improved since 1970's therefore why not take advantage with a cheap and easy conversion?
@@digschopper9321 I'm learning the joys of "oil in the frame", the filter is best in the return line, but to take best advantage, demands complete washing of the oil storage. That's been "saving grace" for Harleys my last fifty years. I've seen a few on the input line, but that can reduce feed and starve the engine, particularly when dirty. This job is something entirely new to me, I find reading the comments is really valuable, lots of experience given.
I thought when you use the old gauze sump you were supposed to use that Golden oil type as it is designed to sludge and drop the impurities into the bottom of the sump. The holes in that gauze were much bigger than the paper filter you have now fitted. That paper filter is designed to run with the best modern oils all of which contain about 20% additives with the paper filter designed to catch the particles. I am not sure it is a good thing to rune the paper filter with that oil as it may completely block up. Your thoughts and anyone else's much appreciated as I have just ordered a paper filter and a modern 10/50 synthetic oil that will reduce wear when starting up.
I just bought a 78 Bonnie this year, had it about five months and recently did this job, just ordinary filter and change, and am interested in doing this change. I've had Triumphs before, but it's been forty years, mine seems to burn a good bit of oil, I'm thinking I might need to re-ring it. I've been i Harleys for fifty years, and that was the usual answer. I reckon I'll have to do it this winter, if I can't come up with a better explanation of oil consumption. I would welcome any comments. I had a 64 TR6R back in the seventies, and it didn't burn much oil at all, not much experience with the 750's.
Hi; so you change that filter every 1500 miles? I have an external filter but I will remove it soon. I almost sized the engine 2 times with these stupid hoses and filter touching the frame. Was a thing from PO. The problem that I see with these others are that I put plenty of kilometers per year on this 79. I use it as a transportation so around 10000km per year or more. I change the oil like manual says so there are like 5 changes per year. Is not good in my book to remove those nuts etc very often. You can let that filter there you can say. I say what is the point to put one if you do that? Filters would be removed every oil change.
Thanks for your comments. I fitted the paper filter as it seemed sensible to easily and cheaply improve the oil filtering over the original mash filter. If you think that's not necessary, then I can't argue, as I'm not an expert on oils. I think that, whatever filtration method you use, frequent oil changes are the safest approach.
If you use a filter and modern oil. Not one that is designed to sludge I am sure you could push your oil change to every 5 or 6 thousand. These modern mineral oils last a lot longer but do still need to be changed as they contain a lot of addatives as well as the oil. If they stop 450 husqvarnas blowing up I reckon they can do a good job on a T140. If they Ir spec 10w 50. They willl protect much better at start up and will be really thick at 50. Thoughts most welcome.
@@stevep9221 I've been running Harley's most of the last fifty years, just got a Triumph this year, again, always had paper filters in the return line, as per cars, and looking at setting up such on my 78 this winter. Your points are well taken, I've just seen poor oil mileage in my recent purchase, following comments to get a better expectation on my current rate of burning oil. I've had friends with "oil the frame" before, but little personal experience. I had a 64 TR6R, in my youth, but new to "oil in the frame".
I looked at both options and considered this to the the neatest and simplest upgrade. I know there is a lot of discussion about whether a filter should go before or after the pump, but in practice it makes no difference. Gravity feeds the oil through the filter.
Triumphs shouldn't wet sump as they use piston pumps with valves, BSA and Norton use gear pumps so wet sump on standing to some extent, my 71 BSA a65 OIF wet sumped badly
I bought mine, about 20 years ago, from Charlie's Triumph in Bristol. The mechanic there told me he had devised it and was getting them made by a local engineering firm. I believe Charlie's is now called Matt's Motorcycles, but I have seen them listed by a number of on-line Triumph parts specialists. If you search Triumph T140 oil filter conversion, you will get several useful results.
Dent Watkins
2 days ago (edited)
@Songs From The Saddle ,
I'm not a great fan of the paper filter on the suction side of the pump. The pumps fitted to Triumphs, whether the original plunger type or the Morgo rotary type, are good for pushing oil round the system but work best with minimal restriction to the pump. They are not designed to suck through a filter, hence the wire mesh strainer.
You mentioned somewhere here that there is atmospheric pressure pushing the oil through the filter to the pump but with the filter on the return line it is being pushed through by the scavenge pump which is a much safer option.
Another advantage to fitting it on the return is that it takes any suspended particles out of the oil before they get into the rest of the oil system so it keeps the whole system clean. The engine is where those particles are produced so it makes sense to remove them at the earliest opportunity on the way out.
The mesh in the bottom of the tank isn't the filter for the oil system, just a strainer or "bolt catcher" for any debris such as paint flakes, wayward springs, small family pets or whatever that might accidentally find its way into the tank.
Filtration is carried out by the infamous sludge trap which is actually a very effective centrifugal oil filter. Just have a look inside the crank when the sludge trap tube is being removed for cleaning and you'll easily see how much carbon combustion by product and fine metallic particles it catches. The only problem with it is the fact that it requires a full engine strip to clean it and people are understandably not keen to do that.
When the engine was first designed, routine maintenance was an accepted part of ownership but in recent years owners have become used to the longer service intervals with modern foreign machinery and want a similar thing with their Triumphs.
If the engine is stripped, the sludge trap removed, cleaned and refitted, then a clean rebuild is carried out (engine, frame tube/tank and hoses spotless) with a spin-on filter fitted in the return line you should be able to keep the oil and the sludge trap clean too.
Incidentally, Fiat 126s, those funny little boxy Italian cars made from the early 70s through to 2000, had a similar sized engine and were also fitted with a centrifugal oil filter. Theirs was a lot easier to clean though. It was inside the front pulley on the crankshaft where the fan belt ran and all you had to do to clean it was undo the ring of 6 bolts to remove the cover plate, hook the sludge out with a screwdriver, wash the last bits out with a paint brush/tooth brush (preferably someone else's) and some paraffin and it was time to put the cover back on. A ten minute job and no filters to buy. Easy life!
Perfect! I was just about to do this job on my '79 T140E and whilst I appreciate it shouldin theory be easy, I had a quick look to see if there was a video, just to be sure, and found this! Thanks!
I hope my video is helpful Ian. It's an easy job. I just changed my oil and fitted a new paper filter 3 days ago and without filming it, it took only about 20 minutes.
I just went to Amazon and bought a pack of 100 mascara brushes for 5 bucks. Seems better than using my finger to put gasket sealer on. I just got a 78 T140 in a partial trade/sale. Doing some basic work on it, carb cleaning, replacing fuel lines, fluids and the throttle cable.
To complete an engine oil change on a T140, you also need to remove the crankcase drain plug, which incorporates the scavenge pick up strainer, allow it to drain, clean the strainer and refit. Once you have refilled the oil reservoir, you need to start the engine and run at idle until the oil can be seen returning steadily from the pipe inside the filler neck. For the first couple of minutes, the oil level will drop by a couple of inches, until all the oilways in the system are full and it's reached its natural level. Only then can you make a final top up and replace the cap.
I installed one of those paper filter conversions on my T140 about 20 years ago, but I took it a stage further: as it is in the suction side of the oil circuit, to be absolutely sure there was enough oil flow through the filter, I modified mine with a longer piece of studding, so that it takes 2 of the elements, stacked one on top of the other. For the extra £10 a year, I think it's worth it for peace of mind. I make my own gaskets, from 1/32" (0.8mm) gasket paper, and fit them with just a smear of grease on both sides, so they won't stick the next time. They have never leaked and all it takes to clean the surfaces is a wipe.
The filter elements were originally a BSA part, for the B50, etc. I believe the part number was 19-4589, also 99-1179.
Hi Rick. Many thanks for taking the time to make these constructive and very helpful comments to add to my video. I made this and other similar videos purely to try and help others out, and so the more information and tips the better.
Maybe next time I do an oil change on the T140 I'll make a video of the full process, including cleaning the strainer. This video was obviously just focusing on fitting the paper filter.
Great video. I've just carried out the same mod to my 78 Bonneville.
thanks for posting
I was watching a RUclips awhile back & it was said that on automobiles at some speeds the oil actual bypasses the filter?
I have a 1973 Tiger 750.
I put on an Oil cooler years ago.
I.use original oil screens & one at bottom of tank has not been removed or cleaned in years.
I figure if the oil drains it is ok.
I change oil every 1000 miles or before winter storage.
I have 63,500 miles & it still runs good.
Nice job, the fitting of a proper disposable paper oil filter is certainly the number one most worthwhile modification that can be done to most old British bikes. The standard factory design of a simple mesh strainer at the bottom of the oil tank or sump with the oil pickup sitting below the strainer right at the lowest point, just where all the muck and particles are heading as most of it all passes through the mesh strainer, is the worst possible setup regardless of how often the oil is changed. Just because BSA, Triumph and others chose to do it that way doesn't mean it was much good.
Personally I prefer the oil filter to be fitted on the oil tank return line, this not only fills the oil tank with effectively filtered oil that protects the feed pump, big ends and any plain type crank bearing used on some old Brit bikes, but it also filters the oil flowing to the rockers which drains onto the cams and followers. Plus the oil is forced through the filter by the scavenge pump.
But the paper filter in the bottom of the oil tank that you are using is still a very good established method, and it is the simplest way of improving the oil filtration on a bike such as the T140, I seem to recall these becoming available in the very early 1980's.
I would just ensure that the oil does flow freely through the filter, particularly in very cold weather, when the bike is first started. After an oil change there can also be a pocket of air trapped below the filter when the oil tank is refilled, this can also sometimes happen with the standard steel mesh strainer, which causes a slight delay in oil reaching the pump and big ends. After refilling the oil tank I used to remove the drain plug again, and there would often be a short delay as the trapped air escaped before any oil appeared.
I bought my first T140 way back in 1983 when just an 18 year old lad, BKW 167T with just 1200 miles on the clock. I made a steel housing to take a small paper oil filter that was used on Suzuki's GS125 model. I plumbed the filter housing into the oil tank return line before the take off point to the rockers, and it was small enough to just fit under a side panel.
Breaking open the paper filter element after just 800 miles revealed an alarming amount of particles trapped there, some relatively large, that had all passed straight through the useless standard engine sump strainer. The amount of particles caught in each paper filter decreases over time as more of the crap is removed at oil and filter change and is not left in the system to simply recirculate.
Sorry if I have blabbed on a bit too much, but carry on the good work, I've always been a fan of the T140 having owned three over the years, the second was an ex police bike with the AV frame with rubber mounted engine, the last was a nice untouched electric start model JHE 310W. Ah! Fond memories of them all.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
I have a 1973 Tiger 750 that I purchased in 1977.
I have always changed my oil every 1000 miles or before putting away for the Winter.
I still only have the mesh screen & have 63,000 miles on bike.
I did put an oil cooler on years ago.
The inline filter sounds good & is probably easy to replace.
I have not cleaned my mesh screen in years - I figure if the oil drains it should be ok?
I have been thinking about replacing the oil lines, but I am unsure of what type of rubber lines to use?
My old lines do not have any markings.
Hey I like your videos I purchased a filter plate for my 77 bonneville but on the new plate it has a o ring on the drain plug not a copper washer. I have not installed it yet but do you think the o ring will be good enough or should I put a copper washer on it ? Thanks
So where can you buy the filter and plate from?....
They have these great little things these days called "funnels" which are great for pouring liquids like oil and not spilling them all over the place. Go down the hardware shop and get one, you won't regret it!
Ha ha.
Nice video! I just put one of these on my '79 T140 and realized that when my centerstand is up it hits the acorn nut in the center of the plate. And it actually smacks it pretty hard when you take the bike off the centerstand, not just a slight rub. Anyone else run into this? Or am I missing a stop for the centerstand that would keep it from hitting? Any suggestions?
Something wrong there. It shouldn't do that.
Why go to paper filter from reusable stock mesh one , what benefits are gained ? New to the English bike scene , i Just won a 1977 Bonneville with 6,000 orig mi , @ Brit jam bike show here in Connecticut two weeks ago & she's a beauty... The best $10 i ever spent lol , winning !
Wow! great raffle prize.
Benefits of paper filter? Better filtration, therefore less engine wear. Not necessary, of course , as they were designed to use mesh filter, but with very frequent oil changes (1,500 miles). Technology has improved since 1970's therefore why not take advantage with a cheap and easy conversion?
@@SongsFromTheSaddle very good I appreciate that makes perfect sense was just curious....yes indeed it's a great raffle prize to have won
Nice upgrade. On the older Bonnevilles with underseat tank,what line would get a filter?
@@digschopper9321 I'm learning the joys of "oil in the frame", the filter is best in the return line, but to take best advantage, demands complete washing of the oil storage. That's been "saving grace" for Harleys my last fifty years. I've seen a few on the input line, but that can reduce feed and starve the engine, particularly when dirty. This job is something entirely new to me, I find reading the comments is really valuable, lots of experience given.
I thought when you use the old gauze sump you were supposed to use that Golden oil type as it is designed to sludge and drop the impurities into the bottom of the sump. The holes in that gauze were much bigger than the paper filter you have now fitted. That paper filter is designed to run with the best modern oils all of which contain about 20% additives with the paper filter designed to catch the particles. I am not sure it is a good thing to rune the paper filter with that oil as it may completely block up. Your thoughts and anyone else's much appreciated as I have just ordered a paper filter and a modern 10/50 synthetic oil that will reduce wear when starting up.
I've had no problems Steve, but it's an interesting thought. I'd like to see what others have to say about this.
I just bought a 78 Bonnie this year, had it about five months and recently did this job, just ordinary filter and change, and am interested in doing this change. I've had Triumphs before, but it's been forty years, mine seems to burn a good bit of oil, I'm thinking I might need to re-ring it. I've been i Harleys for fifty years, and that was the usual answer. I reckon I'll have to do it this winter, if I can't come up with a better explanation of oil consumption. I would welcome any comments. I had a 64 TR6R back in the seventies, and it didn't burn much oil at all, not much experience with the 750's.
I agree that is the most obvious cause and it is probably what I would check first. A nice little winter project. I hope you have a warm garage!
Hi; so you change that filter every 1500 miles? I have an external filter but I will remove it soon. I almost sized the engine 2 times with these stupid hoses and filter touching the frame. Was a thing from PO. The problem that I see with these others are that I put plenty of kilometers per year on this 79. I use it as a transportation so around 10000km per year or more. I change the oil like manual says so there are like 5 changes per year. Is not good in my book to remove those nuts etc very often. You can let that filter there you can say. I say what is the point to put one if you do that? Filters would be removed every oil change.
Thanks for your comments. I fitted the paper filter as it seemed sensible to easily and cheaply improve the oil filtering over the original mash filter. If you think that's not necessary, then I can't argue, as I'm not an expert on oils. I think that, whatever filtration method you use, frequent oil changes are the safest approach.
If you use a filter and modern oil. Not one that is designed to sludge I am sure you could push your oil change to every 5 or 6 thousand. These modern mineral oils last a lot longer but do still need to be changed as they contain a lot of addatives as well as the oil. If they stop 450 husqvarnas blowing up I reckon they can do a good job on a T140. If they
Ir spec 10w 50. They willl protect much better at start up and will be really thick at 50. Thoughts most welcome.
@@stevep9221 I've been running Harley's most of the last fifty years, just got a Triumph this year, again, always had paper filters in the return line, as per cars, and looking at setting up such on my 78 this winter. Your points are well taken, I've just seen poor oil mileage in my recent purchase, following comments to get a better expectation on my current rate of burning oil. I've had friends with "oil the frame" before, but little personal experience. I had a 64 TR6R, in my youth, but new to "oil in the frame".
What do you use to seal the drain plug? Fiber washer or O ring?
I have a fibre washer. It works.
How do you feel about this setup vs an external oil filter?
I looked at both options and considered this to the the neatest and simplest upgrade. I know there is a lot of discussion about whether a filter should go before or after the pump, but in practice it makes no difference. Gravity feeds the oil through the filter.
Will that oil in frame model still wet sump if you leave it unused for a while ?
It never has done
Triumphs shouldn't wet sump as they use piston pumps with valves, BSA and Norton use gear pumps so wet sump on standing to some extent, my 71 BSA a65 OIF wet sumped badly
Should this be motorcycle oil due to a wet clutch can cause slipping
This 'old' oil does not contain the same additives as modern car oils. It is safe for motorcycle clutches.
Hi...how are you finding the paper filter?..all good?
All good so far. I'll make another video when I do my next oil change and replace the paper filter. We can see what it looks like.
@@SongsFromTheSaddle yes that would be interesting..thank you
The only thing is the manufacturer and number on the oil filter. Thank you for the idea 💡 On my 79 T140V.
I think a few different places offer the conversion. You could even do it yourself, as it is basically just a modified standard plate.
@@SongsFromTheSaddle Thank you I will look for the filter. I saw look for a number. But it won't be that hard.
I bought mine, about 20 years ago, from Charlie's Triumph in Bristol. The mechanic there told me he had devised it and was getting them made by a local engineering firm. I believe Charlie's is now called Matt's Motorcycles, but I have seen them listed by a number of on-line Triumph parts specialists. If you search Triumph T140 oil filter conversion, you will get several useful results.
Oil level needs to be rechecked after running the engine as the new filter will hold oil so level will drop.
Not really Russ. The filter sits at the bottom of the oil tank and gravity pulls oil through the filter as you fill the tank up.
Obviously doesn't possess a funnel!