This series is so informative. Your incredibly detailed style is so helpful and I really appreciate the historical/traditional facts along the way. Thanks for uploading your experiments and knowledge!!
It's gonna suck for us when this channel blows up because none of us will be able to get in touch with you anymore. Don't forget about us when you go big.
I'm not looking forward to that. I like being able to interact, but its starting to take up a lot of time already. At some point I'm going to have start answering less and less comments and emails. Lets hope so anyway, but like I said, not looking forward to it. I'll never forget your Cosby profile pic though Abe. That shit's hilarious.
SkillCult Haha, thanks. If there's any channel that I think deserves massive amounts of attention, it's this one. You've earned it, these videos are fantastic, and the hard work that goes into them shows through. Ive never looked, but do you have an IG account?
I have instagram, but I'm having a hard time remembering to post. I have stuff to post from old photos etc, but I prefer to post what's going on now. I don't use it strategically. Like everything else, it's a different mindset to step out of production and into marketing and strategizing to get people viewing the stuff. I need a crash course in using instagram effectively, or I need someone to manage me and make me use it. I like it, but only so much time/thought etc...
SkillCult It's a nice platform, I just got into using it, but it seems like a good way to connect with people. I'll look you up on there and follow you.
Just found your channel. Excellent on so many fronts!! Content, Exposition, Photography, Level of Breakdown to Learn From. Liked !! Subbed !! Thank You!! Your channel deserves more subscribers!! You just got one more! :)
The rawhide handle brace is excellent. I have many axes in my collection and will be trying this concept on them. Your descriptions and video photography make your presentations a cut above others. I will keep watching your channel for education and enjoyment.
Your experience and expertise is amazing! Thank you so much for all your videos, great suggestions backed up with actual use, not theory. I would like to very humbly add a thought and would appreciate your comments on it. I am a custom saddle maker, and traditional saddles have been made for a couple hundred years starting from a form called a "tree". It is made from wood which is then covered with wet rawhide, which is fitted and stitched on to the tree, very much like your process here. When the tree is finally dry, which takes a couple of days, while lightly pounding the seams and stitches flat every few hours, the trees have traditionally been treated with Spar Varnish, Some makers are starting to use some of the newer Varithane type products with good results also. This coating completely waterproofs the rawhide, and gives it a smooth finish, allowing your hand to slide on it very well. I had not thought about Linseed oil, but we all avoid getting any natural oil, animal or vegetable (and ESPECIALLY any petroleum based product), on the rawhide, as it can and will soften the rawhide if too much is absorbed. I offer this merely as food for thought, and sincerely hope it is taken in that light. In no way do I intend to criticize your process. Thanks again.
Thanks! I didn't know about the oil weakening rawhide. this seems to have held up okay, but it hasn't been tested thoroughly. I was wondering if oil might soften it in a good way, as in making it a little more like wet skin and more resilient/flexible. I'll have to figure out how to test it sometime against plain rawhide.
I doubt that the amount of oil you have used will have much effect, but if continues to be applied it will make the rawhide soft and spongy, completely losing its strength. Rawhide's strength and toughness lies in its ability to shrink and dry hard. It is amazing in its ability to stay tight (in a dry climate). The wooden beams in Scotty's Castle in Death Valley are still held together to this day with nothing but rawhide. It is used on saddle trees for this same reason. It gives tremendous strength to the wooden trees, which by themselves would not be strong enough to withstand the stresses. It can take one heck of a beating, although abrasion is its enemy. Once the grain, or hair side of the hide is scratched or worn away, the rest of the thickness wears away rapidly. Keep it dry (waterproof?) and avoid oil. There is a product called Ray Holes Vaquero Rawhide Cream that is satisfactory. Anyway, I sure hope I haven't overstayed my welcome.
I appreciate your expertise. Rawhide is truly amazing stuff. I've seen it wear out as well, on a gear shift and very thin rawhide on a collar brace like this. I oiled this one a lot with linseed and it never seemed to soften or even soak up very much. Same with another one I did. Maybe the linseed cured and prevented further penetration. Neither was tested thoroughly though. I don't like buying product for stuff like that, so if I can't theoretically make it myself, or it's not a basic material, like linseed, I probably wouldn't use it. I'll have to research spar varnish. Most early varnishes were based off of drying oils I think, but there are gums and lac and other stuff that may have been in it. Thanks :)
I don't really think Linseed will hurt it like an animal or vegetable based would. I figured the "...thanes" wouldn't be something you would want to use. I will shut up now and just enjoy YOUR expertise! Thanks for making these videos.
Can't wait for the STATE series. I hope the few minutes of this video are a teaser of what's to come! ever since I watched one of your earlier axe videos every time I watch someone swing an axe I'm intensely analyzing the technique, especially old logging documentaries I try to watch frame by frame. thank you so much for sharing your knowledge in the best no BS, honest way, and saving our dying skills.
Yeah, that was some footage I shot for it which I may or may not use. It's going to be helpful to some people I hope. I wish there was more old axe footage. Love watching that stuff.
I've tried cutting long strips from a plastic bottles, and wrapping that around my handle. From one smaller bottle I can get a 10 foot strip 1/4" wide. I made a jig so I just have to get it started then pull the tag end until the whole bottle is used. After wrapping the strips tightly I hit it with a torch to shrink it on tight. It was very tight and very abrasion resistant however, it comes unraveled pretty easily. I've tried using epoxy to keep the ends from unraveling but that didn't work either. I think I will try to just cut off the top and bottom of a narrow bottle, and slide it on, and see if I can heat shrink it down small enough. Definitely going to try sinew sometime in the future after watching your video on that, and now I will be trying raw hide too. Thanks for the great content.
that's a cool idea on the shrink wrap handle tubing. better than tape. I havent' really put the sinew one to the test. I thought I would split with that axe a lot, but I have been doggedly sticking with whatever I'm using to chop and learning a lot that way. To really test, I need to put it on a firewood axe and use it for a full season.
Kyle Humpherys, do you have a video on that process? If not, please make one because that sounds awesome. DIY plastic recycling is a really untapped topic, and as human beings in our built environment of the future, plastics are going to be a ubiquitous material till time out of mind. I'm really interested in methods folks are figuring out.
Just look up plastic bottle cutter on Google or RUclips. there are lots of videos of various ways other people have made them. I just copied one of these. I am always looking for ways to reuse the massive amounts of plastic products and packaging that come through my house. I'd rather see it reused and recycled than thrown away. Maybe I'll try to post something about wrapping and heat shrinking it onto the axe handle if I can find a way to make it stay on better.
Looks good and seems functional. I did one in bank line with super glue and like it. I'm starting the challenge this weekend. Thanks for great tutorials and philosophy you're putting together.
I cut the thickest piece and it’s soaking now! I don’t have have the stitching skills you do so I’ll probably do a whip stitch like you said you did in the past.
Late to the game here, but finally managed to tackle the handle brace on a Husky axe. Used a rawhide dog bone, fake sinew for leatherwork, and some motorcycle grip glue that I had laying around. Seems to look and feel great but still waiting on it all to set up. Thanks for the ideas and clear course of action. Cheers.
These where my exact guesses before I read your comment :) I'm working on the challenge but I'm not sure how far I'll get yet. Think I have around 1/8th of a cord cut. Fun and informative so far.
First off just an awesome channel ,I like the use of antique duck tape (rawhide) , I made several rawhide holster. I read somewhat that Army used shellac on the bars of Cavalry saddles before glueing on the rawhide so when it got wet from the horses sweat it wouldn't come unglued.. Thanks for your inspiration and videos .Time to play catch up
Thank you for posting this very informative series. I learned a lot and am going to try this on a few axes. I appreciate your channel content, efforts, and delivery!
I know I said this a few times already, but Gods, I love the cinematography of your channel. The shots are just candy to the eye, and those sounds never fail to give me the good kind of shivers. Especially how that log resonated upon hitting when already fallen :D I also wondered about the use of axe. On one hand, its obviously less efficient than a saw, you probably lose 1/4th of the wood you would've gotten if you cut it down with a chainsaw (or a good manual one for that matter), you obviously have to cut out bigger chunks to go through it or fell it, not to mention the amount of stump you leave standing. But on the other hand, rotting wood is vital to the health of a forest ecosystem, so I guess in the longrun it might pay off well, give home to many insects, and the organic matter that stays after they're done with it will leave plenty of fertilizing for new trees.
That one was shot with my two best lenses. I have piles of old manual lenses, but most of them are mediocre. Those two have good bokeh and the Minolta is f1.7 so I can get good depth of field effect even at some distance. I need to sell all my shit lenses and just get a good wide angle or two to round out the collection and just use high quality glass all the time. I use the chips a lot, but don't mind leaving them too. I always feel a little guilty walking out of the woods without leaving anything. that stump was tall because of a lot knots in the lower part of the stump, but the average stump I leave is from 6 to 12 inches tall. You can cut surprisingly low with an axe. It just depends on the situation of course, but I tend to cut them low. not so much for wood conservation, but I don't like seeing tall stumps all over the place and they take longer to rot I think.
Hah, just watched your last project updates video and you say there exactly what I was thinking about the wood chips. I guess if I spent more time going through the content and less on writing comments I'd have less questions :P Either way, great channel, keep it up!
This was another great video about axes. I continue to be impressed with the quality, thoughtfulness, and content of your work. I'll look forward to the upcoming S.T.A.T.E. videos. Calling your work "videos" seems seems simplistic. When I watch them I feel like we are having a conversation and you are talking directly to me. Keep up the good work.
Hey, thanks for that feedback. I honestly don't like the term video. It makes me think of the 80's and bad tracking or cheesy work out videos or something. Oh well, I guess we're stuck with it.
Found bags of rawhide scraps for $1 at my local Tandy, going to give this a try. On my other axe I’m making a 1/16” thick hammered brass collar that will be inlayed to avoid the speed bump. Just want to try out the brass and see how it will perform. It’ll be purdy at the very least, and I get to learn how to work with brass.
Some word or concept guesses so far are right. I'm not going to say which till I release the first vid though. The point is kind of to make people think, so looks like it's working :)
Thanks for another Axe Wednesday. Great tips. The photography was really off the charts today. The little wisps floating around in the shot? Come on...
If you do try the paracord you might try pulling out the inner threads. The outer sheath of the paracord will then lay flat. I have done this with paracord when making bull whips. Just found your channel today. Enjoying your content so far. Thanks for the informative videos.
Hey thanks for the love, man. To be clear, I did get the idea from you. I saw a hatchet of yours with the rawhide guard, and I think you picked that hatchet up and specifically mentioned it in the "Husqvarna 13" Hatchet is a POS" video. I think that after using the squirrel hide guard a little bit, that you really need to make sure the hide is sucked down tight to the handle, I think the spot it wore off was a spot where there was a fold lifted up, and water got underneath and softened the thin rawhide, which then wore off from my hand abrading it, right up to the spot where it was glued down tight. I also think putting extra attention to oiling (and maybe waxing?) the rawhide a bit more than you might for a plain handle area pays benefits if you are going to be working with it in really wet conditions. I'd say water is the enemy of rawhide strength in the field, so the more you can waterproof it the better. Deer legs are coming along, and I'm dehairing them today or tomorrow, the hair is fully slipping, but I may not have time to get to it today. Not sure about the acronyms, but "A" has to be for Accuracy.
True, it has to be reasonably well fitted to start with, but some rawhide has more shrinking power than others. I'm interested to see how the deer legs do. I'd have tried it already if I had any that weren't split open. They may wear out over time, but it should take a while, and since they don't really need any fleshing, it seems easy to add/replace. Thick rawhide will take up water much slower. Also, I mentioned the fact that rawhide changes in the way it behaves with water. Over time rawhide will become more woodlike and not react as much with water. Almost like hard leather or something like that. So, it will probably be less and less affected. I don't worry about it much and don't recall it being a problem ever.
I have used just the outer shell of the paracord to make a handle guard. It lays flat without the inner strings, but probably not as flats as the rawhide. I have also used plastic jugs to make guards but still had to wrap it with paracird to make it look decent. The rawhide just looks like it belongs on the axe.
White cloth tape, wrapped SUPER tight, then a few coats of epoxy/resin to harden the tape. Last step is to sand it down and blend the transition from tape/epoxy to the handle would be pretty good.
When you've never had a great axe or technique, then watching you breeze through that log, it's hard to figure out if it's the wood, axe, or technique that's making it so easy. Thanks!
I had to go back because it's apparent I missed something. Now I see.... SKIllCult Subscription.... Tool of quality.... Agility.... Technique... and Enlightenment... (That was too easy)
I use canvas & epoxy resin. I the strips I use are the width (or height depending on how you look at it) of the sleeve I want. I apply the epoxy to the handle & the wrap a piece of the fabric around & coat that with epoxy & repeat the process a few times. I usually build it up to a thickness greater then what I want because I can then sand it down to my desired profile. I use this process for a couple of reasons. As expoxy dries it shrinks. So like the rawhide it provides compression. It is also extremely strong; in essence you are making a canvas micarta sleeve, & canvas micarta has proven its value & worth for things like knife handles. I actually had an axe handle break at the base of the wrap leaving the wrap perfectly in place. This process also deals with mositure very well. It also allows you to create whatever level of grip you want by how coursely of finely you sand it. And while not nessicary if you want to add some style to your axe you can. Since it's canvas you can do it whatever color you want, & if you rub it with some boiled linseed oil it can take a nice shine. Thanks for the great video content you put out there. -R
That sounds very functional. I did a similar experiment with milk protein glue and muslin. I hvaen't tested it enough to know how it will hold up in the long run, but the concept is obviously sound, depending on the materials. Thanks for sharing that.
I"m sure that works great. I've been thinking about something like that using some glues I could make or even white glue. Might try that soon. Seems really fast and effective, plus, like you said, low profile. Kind of like tape, but presumably tougher.
*BRASS* for metal guard on a maul or heavier axe works good; you can countersink screws and file edges easily. A maple handle split when I pounded in an extra thick nail/wedge but the screws and brass hold it together behind the head.
I could see that. It's very important to me to be able to handle the tool, right up to the head, so i it could be fit well and remain that way with no sharp edges, maybe that would fine. A little cold at times I would think.
You got the right idea: brass could make a smooth transition from wood to steel. I would need a thinner plate to inlay it flush like a set of hinges.I would probably sand it to 600 grit. You could tap it with a ball peen until it had no flat spots for texture or polish it up like an old Henry yellow boy. Trial and error notes: I left a gap (very dumb shock absorber idea) which I later had to fill with wedged wood and epoxy. On the next one all I did was FOLD, SHAPE, FIT, EPOXY then a screw in each corner; no gaps=no movement. ... until yesterday I was thinking of an axe like a katana. I did not quite grasp what you are doing there so I shaved the handle too thin and flat then got the start of a nasty palm blister; I leather wrapped over that and ended up with a racquetball handle, no blisters. I have made copper habaki for katana but that would fail on an axe. The axe is not like the katana, more like a lead ball on a cable to be whipped around like whatever that weapon is called.
A mace I think. Yes, it is much more like that. That is a good way to think of it, because it divorces us from the possibility of trying to push the axe through the wood from the end of the handle, which doesbn't work well..
Safety, technique, aim, tea breaks, ergonomics, sharpness. My problem is bucking up 54" lengths on top of the snow (or on top of logs that I put down to protect the axe blade) and the wood sliding all over the place, I lose a lot of efficiency that way, but it's a good length for the sled and I want those chips for the orchard, otherwise I would buck it up in the woods while it's more or less held in place. I usually have about 3' of snow so I work in the woods on snowshoes then finish bucking it up in the yard. Any ideas on holding the logs in place like some sort of clamp at one end?
No, no ideas on that. come up with something though. have you seen dudley cook's bucking platform? Todd at survival sherpa just did a video on making one. Looks cool. Maybe something like that on plywood to slide around like a sled. Dunno. Totally different reality than me.
Hey Malus, Have you tried dogging them? I do something similar to what you are describing, although we definitely have less snow than you right now. The logs rolling around is a pain in the ass. I've had some success with just dogging one end, but I still jump the dogs out sometimes, bucking puts a lot of torque on a log . I have thought of dogging a log to a backer log and then bucking the notches on both logs, rolling them around and dogging them again and then finishing the cuts on both logs together, if that makes any sense? It would require forging a dog with parallel points.
take 2, 4 ft or so logs - cut notches in 1 side - Place beneath your intended cutting log... if further stability needed then use log dogs . then cut notches on 1 side along the log - spin the log and complete the cuts (take care of your compression/tension on the log during this phase)
im loving this idea and it looks amazing , subbed , another idea i have toyed with is plastic soda bottles and heat shrink them onto the axe with a blowtorch or heat gun , but i couldnt get it to shrink evenly so eventually ran out of bottles to use. so i will have to revisit again soon
I realize this is an old video series, but like you I don't want an intrusive guard which lead me to your channel. Leather lasted for 2 years on my GB Forest axe. The metal is still holding up without any issues on my GB splitting axe, but will need something eventually. So I just bought the Council Tool Woodcraft pack axe and I want a sleek, tough long-lasting guard. I'm totally on board with rawhide, but I'm liking the fibreglass idea. Or maybe the work boot tuff toe in brown. I could layer it and sand it to the desired shape. I saw you mentioned the drywall tape in 3/4" strips and thought of Gorilla glue to bond it. It's sandable as well. So I was wondering if you came across something else or have any new suggestions ? Thanks so much, Cheers
That is a thing of beauty! I'm going to redouble my efforts to find a bit to turn into a boy's or woods axe just so I can try that stitch. Blending the brace into the handle is a good touch too. I split with thin leather gloves because I'm always pausing to pick up wood. That bump (and my lacing) would be maddening while cutting. Thanks!
Selection of the tree (forestry, type of wood, use, lay, etc.) Thought (planning) Accuracy Tenacity Experience (feeds back) motivation maintenance transportation of results efficient
This was a really informative trilogy, thanks for sharing, and I'll be counting how many videos on the subject start popping up, a guy makes a video about him taking his dog "bushcrafting" now EVERYONE puts their dogs in their videos also, lol
Great series, I’ve watched all three videos. Rawhide seems like an ideal solution. I’m thinking that a fiberglass fabric wrap with fiberglass resin would probably make a super strong collar. The only concern would be if it got damaged you could get fiberglass particles stuck in your hand.
Aside from moisture susceptibility and being a lot of work, it's great. I was thinking about the mesh tape used for drywall. Flexibility is improtant though to get a wrap with no folds. Maybe 3/4 inch strips of that stuff in a glue base?
Does threading on the top benefit the axe more than threading on the bottom? I was thinking that having the stitch on the bottom might add extra shock absorption and overstrike protection?
I think there would be a risk of breaking the stitches. If one wanted more shock absorptions, I'd think about a pad of leather or rubber underneath. Not too thick or it would screw up handling.
Hi SkillCult, I was wondering what you thought about Raw Hides bought for Dogs to chew on. The round Bone looking type. They can be soaked and unrolled very easily. It seems to be a viable means of procuring Rawhides for us that don't have access to animal hides.
I just thought that it would be pretty much impossible to buy rawhide in Germany, but I think the chewing bones you can buy for your dog are made out of that. That might be a pretty good and cheap way to get it. These strings are basicly dried tendons, right? I just made a handle for an old, very deformed splitting axe. It took me like 4 hours to get a good fit and finding hickory Handles is extremly hard in Europe. At least finding a shop where you can handselect them, so I will try my best to protect it from my nooby swinging skills. Btw, bought a 4 in hand(shoemakersrasp) for that and it is absolutly brilliant, thanks for that too!
I stuck this video on to see how you dealt with the waterproofing issue, I picked up some dog chew toys today and I think the term thickness may be a little subjective, The stuff I have, one is about 1mm thick, the other maybe 1.5. As you say this stuff may not be as shock absorbent as you like, so I was thinking of adding roo underneath it, I have female grey, oil tanned and drum stuffed in black, purple and red right now. This stuff is pretty greasy so should handle the damp on the uk environment well enough It's about 1mm also. I think you should probably be able to see the colour through the rawhide too which could be cool. Would you recommend the thinner or thicker rawhide if I am trying this? I don't really know how either will hold up as this is the first time working with rawhide, feels a little weird, it's all like slimy when wet. I did have an inner tube on my hunters axe until I came across your channel and wanted to try this method. I don't use my axe as much as you, not by a long shot but I have never noticed the inner tube giving me pause in use. Though for decoration I think I am going to edge braid the joint with roo lace, for me I don't think this would be intrusive, I bought this particular roo so I could plait with 1mm strands at very thin splits for bullwhips, so even flat it shouldn't be too problematic. Anyway, my main question for you today, is how has the linseed only treatment been working for you? Did you move to waxes or any thing else in tests or does it do well enough. How damp is your environment normally?
I've never really tested it hard on purpose, but no doubt it endured some hits. I think it has always performed well. The oil didn't seem to have any effect on strength. As to making it more water resistant, it's hard to say. It seemed to hold up okay and used occasionally in damp conditions. If you add leather, I don't think you need to, but maybe a strip or two just at the front. no cushion needed anywhere else. I'd probably go with the 1.5 mm, but even 1 mm is probably okay.
@@SkillCult Yeah it was hard to see how thick yours was in vid 3, it looks to be around 2-2.5mm I have just watched you make a feather brush in vid 2, that is one of the coolest things I have seen in a long time. but was gonna say even this thicker one is too thin for that sub stitching. I won't use a strip of roo this time round though, I don't know how much you will see through it and I would just prefer to see that all the way around it if you can see through it. It just suits my aesthetic mind more that way. But I won't worry about wax, I'll keep to using linseed for now then if you say it's okay with some damp, I might be a little paranoid but I figure even at that if I apply an extra coat before I go out in wet conditions it's gonna be fine. I hope. It can get pretty wet here though, I have been out before and had to deal with ten straight days of heavy heavy rain. Nightmare, even 8 inch rounds of pine were soaked through. Everything was soaked, it even surface rusted my silky saw teeth. But if you reckon the 1mm is tough enough I will go with that then. maybe use this thicker one for a sheath of something for a smaller knife. Thanks for the guidance.
@@8thsinner It would certainly be safer to go with the thicker. I'm 'mericn so I actually don't have a very good gauge of mm's :) Consider just grabbing some nylon thread or dental floss and whip stitching it (like a corkscrew stitch) and see how it does. It must not be cow hide if it's that thin.
@@SkillCult I don't know, it's cheap, and it was small, length was about 4 inches knotted up, two small chews for £1 in the pound shop. I wouldn't know how to tell if it's deer or cow or any potential other, I suspect it's just scraps at this size though. Hmm. I will see how it looks when it's dry just then, it's still bendable right now I have it clamped between a marble slab and a tool box to dry flat.
have to ask. why don't you use pine tar mixed with linseed oil on your tool handles? it is a wonderful wood preserver as well as conditioner, and it gives the wood a great old world look as well
I've heard of people using that, or seen videos, but haven't ever myself. I've used a mix of beeswax, pine pitch and linseed on some wooden stuff for a deeper saturation and will probably be trying some experiments like that on some handles this summer when it's hot out. When you say pine tar, do you mean a prepared product, or just raw pitch? I've used just pitch, heated and filtered.
SkillCult pine tar is the resin that is distilled out of wood or fat wood. it will not harden like sap dose, but when mixed with a oil like linseed or flax it will absorb back in to the cells of the wood preserving then from rot and or drying out. the old timers used it on their cabins and any wood that they wanted to make weather resistant to rot.
I'm going to do this to my new axe ! I've got a beaver hide I tanned last year and I dehaired about half it . But it hasn't been stretched or broken do you think I can use this?
Great video, sharp as hell with excellent contrast. What cameras do you use with both Nikon and Minolta lensing? And are manual focus? Looking forward to S.T.A.T.E. I won't even guess and keep an open mind.
I shoot most stuff with the Sony Nex5T It's not a fancy camera by any means, but it does the job and has a selfie screen which is essential for what I do and lacking in a lot of cameras. There is no perfect camera for what I do at any price. Closest might be the sony a7s, but it doesn't have a selfie screen grrr... it's also really expensive. The NEX5 is probably under 150.00 on ebay now used. It's real limitations are no mic input, though the onboard mics are not bad as you can hear, and no internal stabilization. I have a small stabilized sony for steady cam use the RX100MIII. It is damn nice and the fixed lens is remarkably good for such a little thing. It's an expensive camera, but a critical addition to my arsenal and goes everywhere with me. The cool thing about these small mirrorless cameras of which there are lots now is you can put any vintage lens on them with cheap adapters. The Minolta 55 1.7 is only 30 to 50.00 on ebay right now. There's a world of excellent manual lenses out there and they're built like tanks. I like shooting manual. I'll do a video sometime on what I use and how I use it. I'm hooked on sharp lenses now. I don't use very many lenses and most of the ones I've accumulated suck. I'm going to liquidate all the ones I never use to raise funds for one or two more sharp wide primes. I hate shooting video and capturing it forever with substandard lenses. It's just like audio. Some lenses just have that extra thing that makes images that are moving and emotive instead of just good. What I need to work on is indoor lighting. That's a big problem for me now.
Thanks Bro. You have become my favorite channel on you tube. Your Humble informative manner is awesome, and greatly appreciated. I look forward to my chance to document my path to sustainable living in the Pacific Northwest when my escape from the Deep South is complete. And you have become an inspiration to that end.
Great vid Stephen as always. I hope you blow up soon cuz I don't think I can watch as larger channels recycle your knowledge as if it was theirs......... I don't know if this will help or not but I'm going to start doing Manuel searches for "skill cult" like ten times a day for the next little bit maybe the RUclips algorithm will catch it. Keep up the great work your going to be a big channel. All the best from Nova Scotia.
Thanks Colin. I need to think plan a little and find ways to get in front of the audiences that other people have already collected. I know there are a lot of people out there that would appreciate my content, but I'm still fairly invisible on youtube unless someone is searching for just the right specific thing and not a lot of people have already made stuff on it. It will happen. Snowball effect.
SkillCult just sourced a side of unbleached rawhide - I want to use some of it for crafts like this but I’m worried that if I wet the whole thing to cut it up but only use some of it, the remainder will lose its elasticity. Do you have any advice on how to keep the remainder of the hide in good condition?
@@SCOTTIEBEAUTIFUL It is okay to redry it, as long as it' not wet for very long, but best to re-stretch it. If it is dried stretched already, you should be able to cut close to the shape you need while dry though. If it's thick, try a saw.
Wow, I learned at least a half-dozen discrete new things from this video series. Packed with goodness. BTW, how is the Patreon campaign going? Maybe you could just put a caption asking people to consider supporting the channel over the cool footage you always put at the end of your vids...
That's the idea for sure. I do have plans to refine my whole end card situation and feature the patreon page. I haven't even really pushed it out there yet at all, so considering that, it's going great! Definitely going to help out this month.
I know this video/series is a little old but I revisited and had an interesting idea. I noticed when thinning the transition between rawhide and wood you had concerns about wearing threw the last stich/knot. My idea is what if you stitched it from the bottom up and finished under the head of the axe you might be able to get the transition a little smoother not that it really needs it. I would assume it would be harder to finish the stitch that way so I'm not sure of the actual validity to my idea and like a stated its not really a problem just wondering if it could maybe be an improvement. just up late one night and had a random idea keep up the good work love the content
Yeah, that might be a good idea. I think there would be plenty of working room. I think it can probably be worked better the way I did it too. but it might just be easier the other way as you say.
Honestly, I just don't overstrike that much or that hard. There were certainly a few. For real battle testing we need one on a firewood splitting axe for multiple cords of wood.
Well because of you and your video I am going to give it a shot.. I am sick and tired of doing and seeing fancy leather collars on axes.. it dosent take long for them to look like shit if you use your axe.. I think your method is by far more practical for a working axe. And in my opinion I think it looks better.. thanks again for all your videos. .
First I want to say thank you for your exelent videos, I realy like how you both show exampels and explain your thoght process. Secondly a question. In Sweden I somtimes find realy ond axes with Birch bark ("näver") applied in a similar fashion, have you tested something similar? On two axes I couldn't find a seam in the bark. I belive that the original owner cooked a piece of bark from a sapling and dryed it in place whole.
Throughout RUclips you find people putting wraps, grip tape, etc, on their tool handles. And tout how much grip it gives. To me, those people don’t use tools very much. Definitely not for a living. When I see tools nowadays with tacky rubber handles, figure grooves, you name it, I shudder and shake my head. It’s as you said before. Dumbing them down to the lowest common denominator. 7 dislikes. Must be Nutnfancy viewers.
there's probably places for grip, maybe firemen or something, but it's pretty hard to think of any good reason for me. Carved in finger grips are the worst.
I did that. There is a video on it. I haven't really used it all that much. It is certainly faster than this, but may have a tendency to come unraveled with heavy use.
Junk store hatchet or small axe and wrap something around the handle, even just some tape. The last couple I bought were 5.00 each. New, I'm not sure really what's out there.
SkillCult it's a pain to find older stuff where I am in the Boston area unfortunately. I will have to dig around online. When buying old axe heads how do I know I have found a good one and not junk?
It seems like most places have junk stores with old tools, or flea markets somewhere at least outside city limits. There are things that might make a kindling hatchet better or worse too and it depends on what you're splitting and how much, assuming you mean for splitting and not cutting small sticks. The problem is that a lot of the complete garbage that is not being produced is finding it's way onto the used market. I passed some awful stuff up recently and got one that I made to work, but was manufactured poorly and messed up by someone. It's hard to tell online. Most of the old quality American name brands are sold out now to overseas junk production. If you can find something by council that seems suitable, that might be a new option. I'd probably recommend their camp axe hatchet if the handle wasn't so damn short. it's a pretty chunky bit, which might be good. It will work and is probably under 25.00 It is very rough out of the box, but I think their manufacturing quality is generally good to very good, so some time with a file and you'll probably be doing pretty good. it is kind of light though too. Too much to say. Just see what you can find used, start using it and messing with it, then you'll figure out what you want next.
Wow, great video, that really turned out great! That little council seems to be a pretty decent axe for the price when compared to most other options. A boys axe will do a surprising amount of work, when used correctly. Is there a way you could maybe in a future feature of this axe show the bit profile from the top, to see how similar / dissimilar, it is to my vintage plumb. Everyone always shows the sides of the axes and the grain orientation, but neglect a detailed close, or focused, shot of the overall geometry of the axe head. Your videos are tremendous, and I have learned a lot from you. Thank you for producing QUALITY content, and not just meaningless vlog content like, "Hey driving to get coffee and an eyebrow wax, so like, I thought you would want to come along! " Keep up the good work....Oh S. Strategy T. Technique A. Awareness T. Time E. Efficientcy...
I tried to show the bit in the council boys axe review recently, but maybe I didn't show from the end. I know I shot it from the end. somewhere in here: ruclips.net/video/885pvnfMAY8/видео.html damn, I was going to strap on a gopro and get an eyebrow wax tomorrow!
BTW, it's pretty hollow ground, but drops off at about 1 inch. There is enough fat on the front of the bit to do what you want I think. I took off a lot of it, but of course you're stuck with the hollow grind. Mine cuts great, but the sticking is starting to bother me a little. I'm getting the Snow and Neally today. It's probably going to be the same, but hoping for a fat bit. The old plumb axes and hatchets I've seen are all super fat running way back up the bit. I have two like that right now. That is what I'm looking for in a new axe so I can do whatever I want with it and set up several to make comparisons. I'm not sure I'll find it though. Peter Vido has an article on that hollow grind v.s. high centerline axe issue that is worth reading. axeconnected.blogspot.com/2011/05/notes-on-ax-head-geometry-part-2-of.html And here are my pans. You're right, I didn't put in footage from the top view. ruclips.net/video/885pvnfMAY8/видео.htmlm28s
Thank you very much for your reply! I sure hope your eyebrows turned out lovely.. But I do appreciate all of your information on this. I happen to be a big time proponent of a high center bit, my plumbs are mostly pre Mann edge tool products, who made the thicker bits. I have nothing against a thicker bit, as it affords steel to work with. But I wish you could try my high center bit Plumb boys axe, what a joy. No sticking, or minimal I should say. The chips clear the cut with authority. I guess I just want to get a new axe for the fact that if people buy them they keep making them and guys like me who have worked in a factory, and actually gave a crap, will keep working. The other reason is, if I am working around more residential trees with the possibility of nails, I don't want to ding my edge up on a nice vintage axe that there was a finite amount of produced. The prices are getting nuts on the vintage stuff so I think I will give one a shot and see how it does. If nothing else it can be a wedge banger. Thanks again!
Someone else mentioned a pine tar mix. Why not do a pitch glue? Pine resin, charcoal and hair, such as tail hair from a deer, to create a 'paleo-epoxy' with natural fibre reenforcement. ;)
I've worked with that stuff a lot mounting stone tools and stuff. It's either gooey or brittle, but never tough or strong, so it really wouldn't do much. If it was soft enough not to crack and fall apart, it would stick to your hands. Hide glue might work for a paleo epoxy. I used sinew and hide glue on one. That should be super strong in theory, but I haven't really put it to the test.
If you built it up in layers with a very tough glue, like hide glue, maybe. I did another video on making one with strips of cloth and cheese glue. I haven't been able to test it hard, but it seems promising. Sausage casings are fibrous, but awfully thin. Still, never say never. I don't think you should use used sausage casings though. Could be trouble with the wildlife ;)
I meant the natural ones made from intestines. They are easy to get a hold of. It was just an idea that is a little easier to find then the skin from a deer leg if you dont hunt regularly.
I've made those and used them quite a bit. Again, maybe if they are wrapped enough time with the right glue, but on their own, they are very weak. I doubt they would work that well.
To make a paracord wrap “suck less”. Take all the inner strands out. The paracord will flatten out better. But IMO...they still make the area to thick.
Thanks. Other people suggested the same. I'm not into the texture though. I want it as smooth and thin as possible for the most part, unless trying to increase thickness on purpose for some reason.
Strength or stamina aren't in there. I suppose they could be. Obviously a certain level of fitness is required. Typically though, I try to downplay that because I think people assume it requires a high level of strength or fitness, which it really doesn't and work pace can be adjusted accordingly.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
finding your channel has added so much more value to my life; thank you!
You're welcome. That's my goal. Good luck finding a good kitchen rock :)
This series is so informative. Your incredibly detailed style is so helpful and I really appreciate the historical/traditional facts along the way. Thanks for uploading your experiments and knowledge!!
It's gonna suck for us when this channel blows up because none of us will be able to get in touch with you anymore. Don't forget about us when you go big.
I'm not looking forward to that. I like being able to interact, but its starting to take up a lot of time already. At some point I'm going to have start answering less and less comments and emails. Lets hope so anyway, but like I said, not looking forward to it. I'll never forget your Cosby profile pic though Abe. That shit's hilarious.
SkillCult
Haha, thanks. If there's any channel that I think deserves massive amounts of attention, it's this one. You've earned it, these videos are fantastic, and the hard work that goes into them shows through. Ive never looked, but do you have an IG account?
I have instagram, but I'm having a hard time remembering to post. I have stuff to post from old photos etc, but I prefer to post what's going on now. I don't use it strategically. Like everything else, it's a different mindset to step out of production and into marketing and strategizing to get people viewing the stuff. I need a crash course in using instagram effectively, or I need someone to manage me and make me use it. I like it, but only so much time/thought etc...
SkillCult It's a nice platform, I just got into using it, but it seems like a good way to connect with people. I'll look you up on there and follow you.
Just found your channel. Excellent on so many fronts!! Content, Exposition, Photography, Level of Breakdown to Learn From. Liked !! Subbed !! Thank You!! Your channel deserves more subscribers!! You just got one more! :)
Thank you Jim. And welcome. :)
The rawhide handle brace is excellent. I have many axes in my collection and will be trying this concept on them. Your descriptions and video photography make your presentations a cut above others. I will keep watching your channel for education and enjoyment.
Thanks David. Hope it works for you.
Wow, fantastic information. Idk if I've ever seen such pleasing videos. Thank you
I use hair-on deer hock rawhide for wrapping everything from my rattling antlers to my axe. Truly a versatile material!
They are cool!
Your experience and expertise is amazing! Thank you so much for all your videos, great suggestions backed up with actual use, not theory. I would like to very humbly add a thought and would appreciate your comments on it. I am a custom saddle maker, and traditional saddles have been made for a couple hundred years starting from a form called a "tree". It is made from wood which is then covered with wet rawhide, which is fitted and stitched on to the tree, very much like your process here. When the tree is finally dry, which takes a couple of days, while lightly pounding the seams and stitches flat every few hours, the trees have traditionally been treated with Spar Varnish, Some makers are starting to use some of the newer Varithane type products with good results also. This coating completely waterproofs the rawhide, and gives it a smooth finish, allowing your hand to slide on it very well. I had not thought about Linseed oil, but we all avoid getting any natural oil, animal or vegetable (and ESPECIALLY any petroleum based product), on the rawhide, as it can and will soften the rawhide if too much is absorbed. I offer this merely as food for thought, and sincerely hope it is taken in that light. In no way do I intend to criticize your process. Thanks again.
Thanks! I didn't know about the oil weakening rawhide. this seems to have held up okay, but it hasn't been tested thoroughly. I was wondering if oil might soften it in a good way, as in making it a little more like wet skin and more resilient/flexible. I'll have to figure out how to test it sometime against plain rawhide.
I doubt that the amount of oil you have used will have much effect, but if continues to be applied it will make the rawhide soft and spongy, completely losing its strength. Rawhide's strength and toughness lies in its ability to shrink and dry hard. It is amazing in its ability to stay tight (in a dry climate). The wooden beams in Scotty's Castle in Death Valley are still held together to this day with nothing but rawhide. It is used on saddle trees for this same reason. It gives tremendous strength to the wooden trees, which by themselves would not be strong enough to withstand the stresses. It can take one heck of a beating, although abrasion is its enemy. Once the grain, or hair side of the hide is scratched or worn away, the rest of the thickness wears away rapidly. Keep it dry (waterproof?) and avoid oil. There is a product called Ray Holes Vaquero Rawhide Cream that is satisfactory. Anyway, I sure hope I haven't overstayed my welcome.
I appreciate your expertise. Rawhide is truly amazing stuff. I've seen it wear out as well, on a gear shift and very thin rawhide on a collar brace like this. I oiled this one a lot with linseed and it never seemed to soften or even soak up very much. Same with another one I did. Maybe the linseed cured and prevented further penetration. Neither was tested thoroughly though. I don't like buying product for stuff like that, so if I can't theoretically make it myself, or it's not a basic material, like linseed, I probably wouldn't use it. I'll have to research spar varnish. Most early varnishes were based off of drying oils I think, but there are gums and lac and other stuff that may have been in it. Thanks :)
I don't really think Linseed will hurt it like an animal or vegetable based would. I figured the "...thanes" wouldn't be something you would want to use. I will shut up now and just enjoy YOUR expertise! Thanks for making these videos.
Can't wait for the STATE series. I hope the few minutes of this video are a teaser of what's to come! ever since I watched one of your earlier axe videos every time I watch someone swing an axe I'm intensely analyzing the technique, especially old logging documentaries I try to watch frame by frame. thank you so much for sharing your knowledge in the best no BS, honest way, and saving our dying skills.
Yeah, that was some footage I shot for it which I may or may not use. It's going to be helpful to some people I hope. I wish there was more old axe footage. Love watching that stuff.
Saw jute twine and epoxy before from another youtuber. Always wanted to try it just haven't. Great series mister!
I've tried cutting long strips from a plastic bottles, and wrapping that around my handle. From one smaller bottle I can get a 10 foot strip 1/4" wide. I made a jig so I just have to get it started then pull the tag end until the whole bottle is used. After wrapping the strips tightly I hit it with a torch to shrink it on tight. It was very tight and very abrasion resistant however, it comes unraveled pretty easily. I've tried using epoxy to keep the ends from unraveling but that didn't work either. I think I will try to just cut off the top and bottom of a narrow bottle, and slide it on, and see if I can heat shrink it down small enough. Definitely going to try sinew sometime in the future after watching your video on that, and now I will be trying raw hide too.
Thanks for the great content.
that's a cool idea on the shrink wrap handle tubing. better than tape. I havent' really put the sinew one to the test. I thought I would split with that axe a lot, but I have been doggedly sticking with whatever I'm using to chop and learning a lot that way. To really test, I need to put it on a firewood axe and use it for a full season.
Kyle Humpherys, do you have a video on that process? If not, please make one because that sounds awesome. DIY plastic recycling is a really untapped topic, and as human beings in our built environment of the future, plastics are going to be a ubiquitous material till time out of mind. I'm really interested in methods folks are figuring out.
Just look up plastic bottle cutter on Google or RUclips. there are lots of videos of various ways other people have made them. I just copied one of these. I am always looking for ways to reuse the massive amounts of plastic products and packaging that come through my house. I'd rather see it reused and recycled than thrown away. Maybe I'll try to post something about wrapping and heat shrinking it onto the axe handle if I can find a way to make it stay on better.
Looks good and seems functional. I did one in bank line with super glue and like it. I'm starting the challenge this weekend. Thanks for great tutorials and philosophy you're putting together.
Excellent. So glad to have you on board.
BTW, if you do smithing, you could consider making charcoal with the wood. Something to think about.
I piddle with it but not a real smith. Can make functional stuff when needed.
Beautiful work. I’ve been looking for a project for my deer rawhide I made. You inspire me!
Cool, go for it. Try to use a thick area, like the neck.
I cut the thickest piece and it’s soaking now! I don’t have have the stitching skills you do so I’ll probably do a whip stitch like you said you did in the past.
totally no problem using the whip stitch. just use small enough thread. I would use small waxed nylon, waxed linen, or sinew.
Late to the game here, but finally managed to tackle the handle brace on a Husky axe. Used a rawhide dog bone, fake sinew for leatherwork, and some motorcycle grip glue that I had laying around. Seems to look and feel great but still waiting on it all to set up. Thanks for the ideas and clear course of action. Cheers.
Way cool. a bunch of guys have used those rawhide chews I think. Just keep it away from your dog :)
SkillCult. Teaches. Axe. To. Everyone. - looking foward to the new series.
he he.
Stability, Thinking, Awareness, Technique, Efficiency.
Sharpness ,throwing. accuracy ,timing ,efficiency.
no comment.
Swing, Technique, Accuracy, Timing, Efficiency.
Imightberiding aside from Swing perhaps being subsumed under Technique, you must have come close
These where my exact guesses before I read your comment :) I'm working on the challenge but I'm not sure how far I'll get yet. Think I have around 1/8th of a cord cut. Fun and informative so far.
Great job man. Love the detail
First off just an awesome channel ,I like the use of antique duck tape (rawhide) , I made several rawhide holster. I read somewhat that Army used shellac on the bars of Cavalry saddles before glueing on the rawhide so when it got wet from the horses sweat it wouldn't come unglued.. Thanks for your inspiration and videos .Time to play catch up
Thank you Wade :)
Thank you for posting this very informative series. I learned a lot and am going to try this on a few axes. I appreciate your channel content, efforts, and delivery!
I like the way it turned out. Pretty bomb proof.
Thank you sir.
I know I said this a few times already, but Gods, I love the cinematography of your channel. The shots are just candy to the eye, and those sounds never fail to give me the good kind of shivers. Especially how that log resonated upon hitting when already fallen :D
I also wondered about the use of axe. On one hand, its obviously less efficient than a saw, you probably lose 1/4th of the wood you would've gotten if you cut it down with a chainsaw (or a good manual one for that matter), you obviously have to cut out bigger chunks to go through it or fell it, not to mention the amount of stump you leave standing. But on the other hand, rotting wood is vital to the health of a forest ecosystem, so I guess in the longrun it might pay off well, give home to many insects, and the organic matter that stays after they're done with it will leave plenty of fertilizing for new trees.
That one was shot with my two best lenses. I have piles of old manual lenses, but most of them are mediocre. Those two have good bokeh and the Minolta is f1.7 so I can get good depth of field effect even at some distance. I need to sell all my shit lenses and just get a good wide angle or two to round out the collection and just use high quality glass all the time.
I use the chips a lot, but don't mind leaving them too. I always feel a little guilty walking out of the woods without leaving anything. that stump was tall because of a lot knots in the lower part of the stump, but the average stump I leave is from 6 to 12 inches tall. You can cut surprisingly low with an axe. It just depends on the situation of course, but I tend to cut them low. not so much for wood conservation, but I don't like seeing tall stumps all over the place and they take longer to rot I think.
Hah, just watched your last project updates video and you say there exactly what I was thinking about the wood chips. I guess if I spent more time going through the content and less on writing comments I'd have less questions :P Either way, great channel, keep it up!
This was another great video about axes. I continue to be impressed with the quality, thoughtfulness, and content of your work. I'll look forward to the upcoming S.T.A.T.E. videos. Calling your work "videos" seems seems simplistic. When I watch them I feel like we are having a conversation and you are talking directly to me. Keep up the good work.
Hey, thanks for that feedback. I honestly don't like the term video. It makes me think of the 80's and bad tracking or cheesy work out videos or something. Oh well, I guess we're stuck with it.
Found bags of rawhide scraps for $1 at my local Tandy, going to give this a try. On my other axe I’m making a 1/16” thick hammered brass collar that will be inlayed to avoid the speed bump. Just want to try out the brass and see how it will perform. It’ll be purdy at the very least, and I get to learn how to work with brass.
Outstanding content. I admire your knowledge and your willingness to share it. Great videos. Keep the teachings coming. I enjoy learning
Thank you.
Some word or concept guesses so far are right. I'm not going to say which till I release the first vid though. The point is kind of to make people think, so looks like it's working :)
Thanks for another Axe Wednesday. Great tips. The photography was really off the charts today. The little wisps floating around in the shot? Come on...
yeah, I noticed that. fortuitious lighting.
Wonderful videos and very instructional..a great idea I will try to use on my new gransfors bruks..
If you do try the paracord you might try pulling out the inner threads. The outer sheath of the paracord will then lay flat. I have done this with paracord when making bull whips.
Just found your channel today. Enjoying your content so far. Thanks for the informative videos.
Thanks. I'm liking the cloth and glue wrap so far for something quick, but we'll see how it holds up over time.
Great video! Thank you for sharing this info!
Thanks.... I enjoyed your video and learned something.
Keep sharing... keep it alive.
I had a paracord wrap on my GB SFA, when I took off the cord there was a white mould underneath.
Hmmm. very interesting. Is your climate damp?
Northern Sweden. Fairly dry climate. Paracord is simply plastic, a real moisture trap.
Hey thanks for the love, man. To be clear, I did get the idea from you. I saw a hatchet of yours with the rawhide guard, and I think you picked that hatchet up and specifically mentioned it in the "Husqvarna 13" Hatchet is a POS" video. I think that after using the squirrel hide guard a little bit, that you really need to make sure the hide is sucked down tight to the handle, I think the spot it wore off was a spot where there was a fold lifted up, and water got underneath and softened the thin rawhide, which then wore off from my hand abrading it, right up to the spot where it was glued down tight. I also think putting extra attention to oiling (and maybe waxing?) the rawhide a bit more than you might for a plain handle area pays benefits if you are going to be working with it in really wet conditions. I'd say water is the enemy of rawhide strength in the field, so the more you can waterproof it the better. Deer legs are coming along, and I'm dehairing them today or tomorrow, the hair is fully slipping, but I may not have time to get to it today.
Not sure about the acronyms, but "A" has to be for Accuracy.
True, it has to be reasonably well fitted to start with, but some rawhide has more shrinking power than others. I'm interested to see how the deer legs do. I'd have tried it already if I had any that weren't split open. They may wear out over time, but it should take a while, and since they don't really need any fleshing, it seems easy to add/replace. Thick rawhide will take up water much slower. Also, I mentioned the fact that rawhide changes in the way it behaves with water. Over time rawhide will become more woodlike and not react as much with water. Almost like hard leather or something like that. So, it will probably be less and less affected. I don't worry about it much and don't recall it being a problem ever.
I have used just the outer shell of the paracord to make a handle guard. It lays flat without the inner strings, but probably not as flats as the rawhide. I have also used plastic jugs to make guards but still had to wrap it with paracird to make it look decent. The rawhide just looks like it belongs on the axe.
White cloth tape, wrapped SUPER tight, then a few coats of epoxy/resin to harden the tape. Last step is to sand it down and blend the transition from tape/epoxy to the handle would be pretty good.
I did a similar thing with cloth and cheese/lime glue (aka casein glue). ruclips.net/video/fCTUPLNH_dA/видео.html
sharpness, tool, angle, technique, endurance
When you've never had a great axe or technique, then watching you breeze through that log, it's hard to figure out if it's the wood, axe, or technique that's making it so easy. Thanks!
Well, any comment I make on that might give away the riddle :)
OHHHH! I was positive you'd respond... It's because of the 3 together. Thanks Steven!
Good luck, keep thinking :)
I had to go back because it's apparent I missed something. Now I see.... SKIllCult Subscription.... Tool of quality.... Agility.... Technique... and Enlightenment... (That was too easy)
Hey Steven, what do you call a guy with a piece of wood on his head?
I use canvas & epoxy resin. I the strips I use are the width (or height depending on how you look at it) of the sleeve I want. I apply the epoxy to the handle & the wrap a piece of the fabric around & coat that with epoxy & repeat the process a few times. I usually build it up to a thickness greater then what I want because I can then sand it down to my desired profile. I use this process for a couple of reasons. As expoxy dries it shrinks. So like the rawhide it provides compression. It is also extremely strong; in essence you are making a canvas micarta sleeve, & canvas micarta has proven its value & worth for things like knife handles. I actually had an axe handle break at the base of the wrap leaving the wrap perfectly in place. This process also deals with mositure very well. It also allows you to create whatever level of grip you want by how coursely of finely you sand it. And while not nessicary if you want to add some style to your axe you can. Since it's canvas you can do it whatever color you want, & if you rub it with some boiled linseed oil it can take a nice shine. Thanks for the great video content you put out there. -R
That sounds very functional. I did a similar experiment with milk protein glue and muslin. I hvaen't tested it enough to know how it will hold up in the long run, but the concept is obviously sound, depending on the materials. Thanks for sharing that.
i used fiberglass and resin cant even tell its there caus its clear. however i also like this method looks solid thank you for the demo
I"m sure that works great. I've been thinking about something like that using some glues I could make or even white glue. Might try that soon. Seems really fast and effective, plus, like you said, low profile. Kind of like tape, but presumably tougher.
i did use carpenters glue first then wrapped twice with thin cloth soaked in resin then sanded. ps very low profile thank you
*BRASS* for metal guard on a maul or heavier axe works good; you can countersink screws and file edges easily. A maple handle split when I pounded in an extra thick nail/wedge but the screws and brass hold it together behind the head.
I could see that. It's very important to me to be able to handle the tool, right up to the head, so i it could be fit well and remain that way with no sharp edges, maybe that would fine. A little cold at times I would think.
You got the right idea: brass could make a smooth transition from wood to steel. I would need a thinner plate to inlay it flush like a set of hinges.I would probably sand it to 600 grit. You could tap it with a ball peen until it had no flat spots for texture or polish it up like an old Henry yellow boy.
Trial and error notes: I left a gap (very dumb shock absorber idea) which I later had to fill with wedged wood and epoxy. On the next one all I did was FOLD, SHAPE, FIT, EPOXY then a screw in each corner; no gaps=no movement.
... until yesterday I was thinking of an axe like a katana. I did not quite grasp what you are doing there so I shaved the handle too thin and flat then got the start of a nasty palm blister; I leather wrapped over that and ended up with a racquetball handle, no blisters. I have made copper habaki for katana but that would fail on an axe. The axe is not like the katana, more like a lead ball on a cable to be whipped around like whatever that weapon is called.
A mace I think. Yes, it is much more like that. That is a good way to think of it, because it divorces us from the possibility of trying to push the axe through the wood from the end of the handle, which doesbn't work well..
Safety, technique, aim, tea breaks, ergonomics, sharpness. My problem is bucking up 54" lengths on top of the snow (or on top of logs that I put down to protect the axe blade) and the wood sliding all over the place, I lose a lot of efficiency that way, but it's a good length for the sled and I want those chips for the orchard, otherwise I would buck it up in the woods while it's more or less held in place. I usually have about 3' of snow so I work in the woods on snowshoes then finish bucking it up in the yard. Any ideas on holding the logs in place like some sort of clamp at one end?
No, no ideas on that. come up with something though. have you seen dudley cook's bucking platform? Todd at survival sherpa just did a video on making one. Looks cool. Maybe something like that on plywood to slide around like a sled. Dunno. Totally different reality than me.
Hey Malus, Have you tried dogging them? I do something similar to what you are describing, although we definitely have less snow than you right now. The logs rolling around is a pain in the ass. I've had some success with just dogging one end, but I still jump the dogs out sometimes, bucking puts a lot of torque on a log . I have thought of dogging a log to a backer log and then bucking the notches on both logs, rolling them around and dogging them again and then finishing the cuts on both logs together, if that makes any sense? It would require forging a dog with parallel points.
take 2, 4 ft or so logs - cut notches in 1 side - Place beneath your intended cutting log... if further stability needed then use log dogs . then cut notches on 1 side along the log - spin the log and complete the cuts (take care of your compression/tension on the log during this phase)
I love axe Wed.
ha ha. Noted....
im loving this idea and it looks amazing , subbed , another idea i have toyed with is plastic soda bottles and heat shrink them onto the axe with a blowtorch or heat gun , but i couldnt get it to shrink evenly so eventually ran out of bottles to use. so i will have to revisit again soon
Thats a neat idea. You probably just need to find just the right thickness and diameter I guess.
I realize this is an old video series, but like you I don't want an intrusive guard which lead me to your channel. Leather lasted for 2 years on my GB Forest axe. The metal is still holding up without any issues on my GB splitting axe, but will need something eventually. So I just bought the Council Tool Woodcraft pack axe and I want a sleek, tough long-lasting guard. I'm totally on board with rawhide, but I'm liking the fibreglass idea. Or maybe the work boot tuff toe in brown. I could layer it and sand it to the desired shape. I saw you mentioned the drywall tape in 3/4" strips and thought of Gorilla glue to bond it. It's sandable as well. So I was wondering if you came across something else or have any new suggestions ? Thanks so much, Cheers
That is a thing of beauty! I'm going to redouble my efforts to find a bit to turn into a boy's or woods axe just so I can try that stitch.
Blending the brace into the handle is a good touch too. I split with thin leather gloves because I'm always pausing to pick up wood. That bump (and my lacing) would be maddening while cutting. Thanks!
Hopefully you can find something around 2.5 lbs. It is really sweet. I don't really notice it unless I'm trying to pay attention.
I'm headed downeast within a month or so and have some places to check!
Selection of the tree
(forestry, type of wood, use, lay, etc.)
Thought (planning)
Accuracy
Tenacity
Experience (feeds back)
motivation
maintenance
transportation of results
efficient
This was a really informative trilogy, thanks for sharing, and I'll be counting how many videos on the subject start popping up, a guy makes a video about him taking his dog "bushcrafting" now EVERYONE puts their dogs in their videos also, lol
Great series, I’ve watched all three videos. Rawhide seems like an ideal solution. I’m thinking that a fiberglass fabric wrap with fiberglass resin would probably make a super strong collar. The only concern would be if it got damaged you could get fiberglass particles stuck in your hand.
Aside from moisture susceptibility and being a lot of work, it's great. I was thinking about the mesh tape used for drywall. Flexibility is improtant though to get a wrap with no folds. Maybe 3/4 inch strips of that stuff in a glue base?
@@SkillCult l
Does threading on the top benefit the axe more than threading on the bottom? I was thinking that having the stitch on the bottom might add extra shock absorption and overstrike protection?
I think there would be a risk of breaking the stitches. If one wanted more shock absorptions, I'd think about a pad of leather or rubber underneath. Not too thick or it would screw up handling.
Hi SkillCult, I was wondering what you thought about Raw Hides bought for Dogs to chew on. The round Bone looking type. They can be soaked and unrolled very easily. It seems to be a viable means of procuring Rawhides for us that don't have access to animal hides.
I haven't used them, but others have said that they work fine. Seems worth a try if they are cheap.
I just thought that it would be pretty much impossible to buy rawhide in Germany, but I think the chewing bones you can buy for your dog are made out of that. That might be a pretty good and cheap way to get it. These strings are basicly dried tendons, right?
I just made a handle for an old, very deformed splitting axe. It took me like 4 hours to get a good fit and finding hickory Handles is extremly hard in Europe. At least finding a shop where you can handselect them, so I will try my best to protect it from my nooby swinging skills. Btw, bought a 4 in hand(shoemakersrasp) for that and it is absolutly brilliant, thanks for that too!
Yes, you can use those for this project. Kevin at Kevin's Disobedience has a video using glue instead of thread.
What thickness (approximately) is the rawhide, after you scraped it ? 3-5 millimeters? (0,12-0,20 inches?).
I couldn't say. Maybe 1/8" or less, probably less.
I stuck this video on to see how you dealt with the waterproofing issue, I picked up some dog chew toys today and I think the term thickness may be a little subjective, The stuff I have, one is about 1mm thick, the other maybe 1.5.
As you say this stuff may not be as shock absorbent as you like, so I was thinking of adding roo underneath it, I have female grey, oil tanned and drum stuffed in black, purple and red right now. This stuff is pretty greasy so should handle the damp on the uk environment well enough It's about 1mm also. I think you should probably be able to see the colour through the rawhide too which could be cool.
Would you recommend the thinner or thicker rawhide if I am trying this? I don't really know how either will hold up as this is the first time working with rawhide, feels a little weird, it's all like slimy when wet.
I did have an inner tube on my hunters axe until I came across your channel and wanted to try this method.
I don't use my axe as much as you, not by a long shot but I have never noticed the inner tube giving me pause in use. Though for decoration I think I am going to edge braid the joint with roo lace, for me I don't think this would be intrusive, I bought this particular roo so I could plait with 1mm strands at very thin splits for bullwhips, so even flat it shouldn't be too problematic.
Anyway, my main question for you today, is how has the linseed only treatment been working for you? Did you move to waxes or any thing else in tests or does it do well enough. How damp is your environment normally?
I've never really tested it hard on purpose, but no doubt it endured some hits. I think it has always performed well. The oil didn't seem to have any effect on strength. As to making it more water resistant, it's hard to say. It seemed to hold up okay and used occasionally in damp conditions. If you add leather, I don't think you need to, but maybe a strip or two just at the front. no cushion needed anywhere else. I'd probably go with the 1.5 mm, but even 1 mm is probably okay.
@@SkillCult Yeah it was hard to see how thick yours was in vid 3, it looks to be around 2-2.5mm I have just watched you make a feather brush in vid 2, that is one of the coolest things I have seen in a long time. but was gonna say even this thicker one is too thin for that sub stitching. I won't use a strip of roo this time round though, I don't know how much you will see through it and I would just prefer to see that all the way around it if you can see through it. It just suits my aesthetic mind more that way. But I won't worry about wax, I'll keep to using linseed for now then if you say it's okay with some damp, I might be a little paranoid but I figure even at that if I apply an extra coat before I go out in wet conditions it's gonna be fine. I hope. It can get pretty wet here though, I have been out before and had to deal with ten straight days of heavy heavy rain. Nightmare, even 8 inch rounds of pine were soaked through. Everything was soaked, it even surface rusted my silky saw teeth. But if you reckon the 1mm is tough enough I will go with that then. maybe use this thicker one for a sheath of something for a smaller knife.
Thanks for the guidance.
@@8thsinner It would certainly be safer to go with the thicker. I'm 'mericn so I actually don't have a very good gauge of mm's :) Consider just grabbing some nylon thread or dental floss and whip stitching it (like a corkscrew stitch) and see how it does. It must not be cow hide if it's that thin.
@@SkillCult I don't know, it's cheap, and it was small, length was about 4 inches knotted up, two small chews for £1 in the pound shop. I wouldn't know how to tell if it's deer or cow or any potential other, I suspect it's just scraps at this size though. Hmm. I will see how it looks when it's dry just then, it's still bendable right now I have it clamped between a marble slab and a tool box to dry flat.
have to ask. why don't you use pine tar mixed with linseed oil on your tool handles? it is a wonderful wood preserver as well as conditioner, and it gives the wood a great old world look as well
I've heard of people using that, or seen videos, but haven't ever myself. I've used a mix of beeswax, pine pitch and linseed on some wooden stuff for a deeper saturation and will probably be trying some experiments like that on some handles this summer when it's hot out. When you say pine tar, do you mean a prepared product, or just raw pitch? I've used just pitch, heated and filtered.
SkillCult pine tar is the resin that is distilled out of wood or fat wood. it will not harden like sap dose, but when mixed with a oil like linseed or flax it will absorb back in to the cells of the wood preserving then from rot and or drying out. the old timers used it on their cabins and any wood that they wanted to make weather resistant to rot.
I'm going to do this to my new axe ! I've got a beaver hide I tanned last year and I dehaired about half it . But it hasn't been stretched or broken do you think I can use this?
If it's rawhide and not tanned or oiled, it should work. If it's hard like rawhide when dried, probably fine.
Do u have a video on the rehandle of the mora you see at the beginning of this video?
It's just carved, not re-handled. I have plans to do a video on carving those, but I haven't yet.
Great video, sharp as hell with excellent contrast. What cameras do you use with both Nikon and Minolta lensing? And are manual focus? Looking forward to S.T.A.T.E. I won't even guess and keep an open mind.
I shoot most stuff with the Sony Nex5T It's not a fancy camera by any means, but it does the job and has a selfie screen which is essential for what I do and lacking in a lot of cameras. There is no perfect camera for what I do at any price. Closest might be the sony a7s, but it doesn't have a selfie screen grrr... it's also really expensive. The NEX5 is probably under 150.00 on ebay now used. It's real limitations are no mic input, though the onboard mics are not bad as you can hear, and no internal stabilization. I have a small stabilized sony for steady cam use the RX100MIII. It is damn nice and the fixed lens is remarkably good for such a little thing. It's an expensive camera, but a critical addition to my arsenal and goes everywhere with me. The cool thing about these small mirrorless cameras of which there are lots now is you can put any vintage lens on them with cheap adapters. The Minolta 55 1.7 is only 30 to 50.00 on ebay right now. There's a world of excellent manual lenses out there and they're built like tanks. I like shooting manual. I'll do a video sometime on what I use and how I use it. I'm hooked on sharp lenses now. I don't use very many lenses and most of the ones I've accumulated suck. I'm going to liquidate all the ones I never use to raise funds for one or two more sharp wide primes. I hate shooting video and capturing it forever with substandard lenses. It's just like audio. Some lenses just have that extra thing that makes images that are moving and emotive instead of just good. What I need to work on is indoor lighting. That's a big problem for me now.
Thanks Bro. You have become my favorite channel on you tube. Your Humble informative manner is awesome, and greatly appreciated. I look forward to my chance to document my path to sustainable living in the Pacific Northwest when my escape from the Deep South is complete. And you have become an inspiration to that end.
Great vid Stephen as always. I hope you blow up soon cuz I don't think I can watch as larger channels recycle your knowledge as if it was theirs......... I don't know if this will help or not but I'm going to start doing Manuel searches for "skill cult" like ten times a day for the next little bit maybe the RUclips algorithm will catch it. Keep up the great work your going to be a big channel. All the best from Nova Scotia.
Thanks Colin. I need to think plan a little and find ways to get in front of the audiences that other people have already collected. I know there are a lot of people out there that would appreciate my content, but I'm still fairly invisible on youtube unless someone is searching for just the right specific thing and not a lot of people have already made stuff on it. It will happen. Snowball effect.
Question: I don't have access to rawhide like you do. Can I use a rawhide chew for dogs, soak it, and do the same thing?
I hear that people have done that sucessfully. Seems worth a try.
Is that rawhide bleached or unbleached? I’ve noticed that mine looks much lighter than yours when dry. Fine work by the way - appreciate the tutorial
I made it so it's just natural color. Yeah, most commercial rawhide is bleached.
SkillCult just sourced a side of unbleached rawhide - I want to use some of it for crafts like this but I’m worried that if I wet the whole thing to cut it up but only use some of it, the remainder will lose its elasticity. Do you have any advice on how to keep the remainder of the hide in good condition?
@@SCOTTIEBEAUTIFUL It is okay to redry it, as long as it' not wet for very long, but best to re-stretch it. If it is dried stretched already, you should be able to cut close to the shape you need while dry though. If it's thick, try a saw.
SkillCult appreciate the help!
Wow, I learned at least a half-dozen discrete new things from this video series. Packed with goodness. BTW, how is the Patreon campaign going? Maybe you could just put a caption asking people to consider supporting the channel over the cool footage you always put at the end of your vids...
That's the idea for sure. I do have plans to refine my whole end card situation and feature the patreon page. I haven't even really pushed it out there yet at all, so considering that, it's going great! Definitely going to help out this month.
I know this video/series is a little old but I revisited and had an interesting idea. I noticed when thinning the transition between rawhide and wood you had concerns about wearing threw the last stich/knot. My idea is what if you stitched it from the bottom up and finished under the head of the axe you might be able to get the transition a little smoother not that it really needs it. I would assume it would be harder to finish the stitch that way so I'm not sure of the actual validity to my idea and like a stated its not really a problem just wondering if it could maybe be an improvement. just up late one night and had a random idea keep up the good work love the content
Yeah, that might be a good idea. I think there would be plenty of working room. I think it can probably be worked better the way I did it too. but it might just be easier the other way as you say.
Awesome job.. how did it hold up to over strikes and was the BLO a good idea? Would love to see a follow up. . Thanks steve
Honestly, I just don't overstrike that much or that hard. There were certainly a few. For real battle testing we need one on a firewood splitting axe for multiple cords of wood.
The linseed oil, was raw linseed oil. It seemed fine. It didn't seem to soften the rawhide that I could tell, but hard to be sure.
Well because of you and your video I am going to give it a shot.. I am sick and tired of doing and seeing fancy leather collars on axes.. it dosent take long for them to look like shit if you use your axe.. I think your method is by far more practical for a working axe. And in my opinion I think it looks better.. thanks again for all your videos. .
First I want to say thank you for your exelent videos, I realy like how you both show exampels and explain your thoght process. Secondly a question. In Sweden I somtimes find realy ond axes with Birch bark ("näver") applied in a similar fashion, have you tested something similar?
On two axes I couldn't find a seam in the bark. I belive that the original owner cooked a piece of bark from a sapling and dryed it in place whole.
Wow, that's cool. I've never heard of that one. We don't have anything similar here bark wise. I mean Birch bark is pretty unique stuff.
Throughout RUclips you find people putting wraps, grip tape, etc, on their tool handles. And tout how much grip it gives. To me, those people don’t use tools very much. Definitely not for a living. When I see tools nowadays with tacky rubber handles, figure grooves, you name it, I shudder and shake my head. It’s as you said before. Dumbing them down to the lowest common denominator. 7 dislikes. Must be Nutnfancy viewers.
there's probably places for grip, maybe firemen or something, but it's pretty hard to think of any good reason for me. Carved in finger grips are the worst.
sinew wrap by itself with hide glue? would be very strong , very thin
I did that. There is a video on it. I haven't really used it all that much. It is certainly faster than this, but may have a tendency to come unraveled with heavy use.
what would you recommend for a kindling hatchet that is inexpensive?
Junk store hatchet or small axe and wrap something around the handle, even just some tape. The last couple I bought were 5.00 each. New, I'm not sure really what's out there.
SkillCult it's a pain to find older stuff where I am in the Boston area unfortunately. I will have to dig around online. When buying old axe heads how do I know I have found a good one and not junk?
It seems like most places have junk stores with old tools, or flea markets somewhere at least outside city limits. There are things that might make a kindling hatchet better or worse too and it depends on what you're splitting and how much, assuming you mean for splitting and not cutting small sticks. The problem is that a lot of the complete garbage that is not being produced is finding it's way onto the used market. I passed some awful stuff up recently and got one that I made to work, but was manufactured poorly and messed up by someone. It's hard to tell online. Most of the old quality American name brands are sold out now to overseas junk production. If you can find something by council that seems suitable, that might be a new option. I'd probably recommend their camp axe hatchet if the handle wasn't so damn short. it's a pretty chunky bit, which might be good. It will work and is probably under 25.00 It is very rough out of the box, but I think their manufacturing quality is generally good to very good, so some time with a file and you'll probably be doing pretty good. it is kind of light though too. Too much to say. Just see what you can find used, start using it and messing with it, then you'll figure out what you want next.
thanks I appreciate the thorough answer. I love axe Wednesdays and look forward to the next one.
Somerville Flea.
Wow, great video, that really turned out great! That little council seems to be a pretty decent axe for the price when compared to most other options. A boys axe will do a surprising amount of work, when used correctly. Is there a way you could maybe in a future feature of this axe show the bit profile from the top, to see how similar / dissimilar, it is to my vintage plumb. Everyone always shows the sides of the axes and the grain orientation, but neglect a detailed close, or focused, shot of the overall geometry of the axe head. Your videos are tremendous, and I have learned a lot from you. Thank you for producing QUALITY content, and not just meaningless vlog content like, "Hey driving to get coffee and an eyebrow wax, so like, I thought you would want to come along! " Keep up the good work....Oh S. Strategy T. Technique A. Awareness T. Time E. Efficientcy...
I tried to show the bit in the council boys axe review recently, but maybe I didn't show from the end. I know I shot it from the end. somewhere in here: ruclips.net/video/885pvnfMAY8/видео.html damn, I was going to strap on a gopro and get an eyebrow wax tomorrow!
BTW, it's pretty hollow ground, but drops off at about 1 inch. There is enough fat on the front of the bit to do what you want I think. I took off a lot of it, but of course you're stuck with the hollow grind. Mine cuts great, but the sticking is starting to bother me a little. I'm getting the Snow and Neally today. It's probably going to be the same, but hoping for a fat bit. The old plumb axes and hatchets I've seen are all super fat running way back up the bit. I have two like that right now. That is what I'm looking for in a new axe so I can do whatever I want with it and set up several to make comparisons. I'm not sure I'll find it though. Peter Vido has an article on that hollow grind v.s. high centerline axe issue that is worth reading. axeconnected.blogspot.com/2011/05/notes-on-ax-head-geometry-part-2-of.html
And here are my pans. You're right, I didn't put in footage from the top view. ruclips.net/video/885pvnfMAY8/видео.htmlm28s
Thank you very much for your reply! I sure hope your eyebrows turned out lovely.. But I do appreciate all of your information on this. I happen to be a big time proponent of a high center bit, my plumbs are mostly pre Mann edge tool products, who made the thicker bits. I have nothing against a thicker bit, as it affords steel to work with. But I wish you could try my high center bit Plumb boys axe, what a joy. No sticking, or minimal I should say. The chips clear the cut with authority. I guess I just want to get a new axe for the fact that if people buy them they keep making them and guys like me who have worked in a factory, and actually gave a crap, will keep working. The other reason is, if I am working around more residential trees with the possibility of nails, I don't want to ding my edge up on a nice vintage axe that there was a finite amount of produced. The prices are getting nuts on the vintage stuff so I think I will give one a shot and see how it does. If nothing else it can be a wedge banger. Thanks again!
I red read would wood terr out tearibly...or something like that
Someone else mentioned a pine tar mix. Why not do a pitch glue? Pine resin, charcoal and hair, such as tail hair from a deer, to create a 'paleo-epoxy' with natural fibre reenforcement. ;)
I've worked with that stuff a lot mounting stone tools and stuff. It's either gooey or brittle, but never tough or strong, so it really wouldn't do much. If it was soft enough not to crack and fall apart, it would stick to your hands. Hide glue might work for a paleo epoxy. I used sinew and hide glue on one. That should be super strong in theory, but I haven't really put it to the test.
My suggestion of the five things of S.T.A.T.E acronym would be Sharpness, Tempo, Accuracy, Tactics, Efficiency.
like wood wood!
I wonder how several layers of sausage casing would work?
If you built it up in layers with a very tough glue, like hide glue, maybe. I did another video on making one with strips of cloth and cheese glue. I haven't been able to test it hard, but it seems promising. Sausage casings are fibrous, but awfully thin. Still, never say never. I don't think you should use used sausage casings though. Could be trouble with the wildlife ;)
I meant the natural ones made from intestines. They are easy to get a hold of. It was just an idea that is a little easier to find then the skin from a deer leg if you dont hunt regularly.
I've made those and used them quite a bit. Again, maybe if they are wrapped enough time with the right glue, but on their own, they are very weak. I doubt they would work that well.
A couple people reported back that rawhide dog chew toys worked.
raw hide strop?
I don't see that being great, but maybe. Most strops have a little bit of give to them. maybe depending on the rawhide and the backing.
@@SkillCultI'm thinking for sloyd knifes so you don't get so much micro convexing.
Stance. Timing.Aim. T ? Efficiency
To make a paracord wrap “suck less”. Take all the inner strands out. The paracord will flatten out better. But IMO...they still make the area to thick.
Thanks. Other people suggested the same. I'm not into the texture though. I want it as smooth and thin as possible for the most part, unless trying to increase thickness on purpose for some reason.
S: Strength...or Stamina?
A: Aim, or maybe Attention?
This is harder than I thought! One of the T's could be...Training, maybe? Like practice?
Strength or stamina aren't in there. I suppose they could be. Obviously a certain level of fitness is required. Typically though, I try to downplay that because I think people assume it requires a high level of strength or fitness, which it really doesn't and work pace can be adjusted accordingly.
Yeah, I did kind of think it would be unlike you...but I can't think of anything else the S could be!
Just ran across this cool video on making a rawhide Riata straight from the cow. Very cool. ruclips.net/video/0hQ29xYzoyk/видео.html
My guess on S.T.A.T.E.... Strategy. Technique. Accuracy. Tension. Efficiency.