As a self-taught knitter your videos are a godsend!!! They are so helpful and easy to understand. Plus your vibe is just so comforting and I wish I had someone like in you in real life for when I need help!
Just dropping a comment to say thank you! Your videos are usually my go-to as a new knitter whenever I have questions because they're always so concise and clear.
I LOVE your videos! I learned to knit and crochet from my grandmother when I was a little tot (only way she could get me to sit still) but she is left handed and I am right handed so i've had to relearn and basically start over with right handed knitting and crocheting. Your videos have really helped me improve my knitting for both my left and right side since you explain things beyond hand dominance. It's really helped me step up my knitting game and even teach my grandma a thing or two! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, you have a gift.
Oh, I can see the frustration! :) Patterns do that to give you more options for modification. If they say "multiple of 12 stitches +1", they are allowing you to make the item as wide or narrow as you like by making the number of stitches in the pattern repeat clear. Hope that helps!
Thank you so much for clarifying right side and wrong side for flat pieces. I couldn't find this info in any other video I've seen. Excited to try fair isle. Very beautiful!
You need to work every row of a chart, regardless of whether you're knitting a flat piece, or working in-the-round. If you're knitting a flat piece, you read right side rows from right to left, and wrong side rows from left to right. If you're working in-the-round, you work every row from right to left. Don't skip any rows!
Yes - there is software out there to help you design charts. I don't know the names of them, but I've seen them advertised on Ravelry. I personally find that Microsoft Excel does a fine job of helping me create charts. (If you're asking about software to help you with general pattern design, not charts, sorry, I don't know of any software that does that.) Hope that helps!
Thank you, thank you - I was always iffy about how it worked, but never took the time to sit down and figure it out and so have avoided using charts. You're a love! :)
Hi Pink, Deb C here. I had asked what to do with the black blocks indicating "NO STITCH", I did contact several people who have made this pattern, with no response. I took the picture of this sock and increased it to 400% . These black blocks are deffinitely Slips. And it works.
I needed to learn to knit colorwork for a project I want to start and your videos have been so helpful! Anytime I need to learn a new stich or technique I scroll around to see if you made a video on it yet. =)
Thank you very much. I'm learning to double knit and didn't understand that you read a chart from right to left and then left to right with double points!!!
Ah ha! I just found this. Ignore the request for charting...on the counting knit stitches or reading knit stitches. I'm still learning this RUclips stuff. Thanks :)
That depends - if you are a leftie, but you still knit on to an empty needle in your right hand, then you want to read the charts from R to L, as I demonstrate here. If you are a leftie who knits onto an empty needle in your left hand, you are a mirror knitter. If the chart is symmetrical, there is no need to do anything differently, but a mirror knitter will want to read stitch and color charts backwards if the design is asymmetrical.
I am knitting the Georgiana Shawlette. It's done on circular needles only to accomodate the number of stitches. I've finished the first 6 rows, mainly purl rows with a row in the middle of k2, yo, k2 etc to the end to create a row of eyelets. Well, I've done the first patterned row, then a row of purl. So now I'm on row 3 of Lower Border A. I ignored the first (no stitch) and knit 17 stitches, then I'm supposed to do an ssk, but I only have 2 stitches on this first of many multiple repeats. How should I read this? I've never followed a pattern before that has NO STITCHES in it...confused...
I'm not familiar with this pattern - I recommend contacting the pattern designer directly for support. Good designers support their patterns and get back to you quickly with answers to your questions.
I am praying you will still get this and can understand what I am asking. I have tried to contact the designer with no response. The chart pattern is an upside down triangle shaped shawl so the bottom or first line of the chart is more narrow than on the top of the chart due to increases in the pattern. The top row of the chart finishes out with 51 stitches. There is a 12 st repeat outlined in red with stitches on either side of the red box that was used in the initial pattern. Pattern says to repeat rows 1-24 a multiple of 7 times. When I do the repeat, do I knit the stitches at the front of the red box row 1, knit the repeat, knit the repeat, and then do the stitches on the other side of the red box? If this is correct that would only give me 41 stitches and if I do another repeat there are too many stitches for the row count. Do I knit an incomplete repeat and finish out with the stitches on the outside of the red box? Thanks so much for your help.
You've got it right about repeating the repeat section in the red box, over and over, and knitting the first and last stitches once. You should be coming up with the correct number of stitches! This is really a question for the designer. I'm sorry to hear you're knitting a pattern without designer support - all designers should support their patterns. You can also look in the comments on Ravelry to see how others got to the correct stitch count, or ask someone on Ravelry who has finished knitting it. But don't buy any more patterns from this designer!
@@verypinkknits Thanks for your time and response. I will just have to work with it and see if l can get the first repeat row to work out and go from there. Thanks again.
Question! I have a color chart, knitting flat, but it has a A & B diagram. So I would knit the RS starting from R to L with M.2A then finish with M.2B. Here is my question; When knitting the WS do I start with M.2B then go to M.2A. If it helps the pattern is Baby drops 19-1. Thanks!
+Jeni Britto - sorry, I can't answer that without being familiar with the pattern. Your best bet is to contact the designer directly. Ravelry message is a good way to ask questions directly to pattern designers.
I have 3 charts in an Aran square. Charts A & B has 24 rows, repeat 3x. Chart C has only 16 rows. When I reach the end of chart C at row 16, do I start back on row 1, which would be row 17 of Charts A & B? Or just plain knit in Chart C until I reach then end of row 24 ?
+Darlene Winther - you may need to contact the pattern designer for your answer, but usually when you work different charts in the same pattern you finish each chart and start over again with Row 1, regardless of how it lines up with the other charts. So you'll be back on Row 1 of Chart C, and on Row 17 of Charts A & B. (if you're still confused, please contact the pattern designer for a concrete answer on this specific pattern)
This chart is for an argyle repeat what would you say is the best technique for this? I have only ever attempted this colorwork type once and used a method of carrying to do it.
That is a good question, Keoki. Personally, unless the pattern continued all the way around a sweater (or hat, or whatever), I would use duplicate stitch instead of intarsia knitting. I find all of those bobbins of yarn to be cumbersome. If the pattern did continue all the way around, I would carry the colors. Here is my video on duplicate stitch: ruclips.net/video/-cfmjyaaAdw/видео.html
Help!? I'm knitting a pattern with a lot of black blocks within each row. the instructions say there is NOT any stitches in the black blocks. The next row, and the next, and the next also has black blocks in the same places more or less. Am I slipping those stitches or carrying the thread on the back side until I get back to the stitched blocks. It is a single color, sock pattern, IN the Round, a lacy type pattern on the top of the foot. Seems like carrying the thread 7 or more stitch spaces is going to be a potential toe catcher. If you want to SEE what I mean, It is the Woodland Walk pattern free on Ravelry. I have tried to contact the designer but the email comes back undeliverable.
Nope, not fair isle style. It's knitting lace. The black blocks not having any stitches creates a hole row after row lasting several rows. Maybe a lace knitting video ould help.
A pattern I want to make has a chart with blank areas with no grid , I don't get how to read it. I believe it to be an advanced knitting chart. The pattern is Sweet Dreams by Drops Design. I'd love to see a tutorial on a chart similar to this so I can make it, maybe . It looks too scary confusing.
S.Arts.Wut - when a chart has empty squares, it is usually because the previous row had you decrease, so there is no stitch there. If you had ten stitches, and Row 1 has you decrease 5, the following row will only have 5 solid squares, and 5 empty squares, because 5 stitches were decreased out. For the most accurate information about the specific pattern you're working on, I suggest contacting the pattern designer directly - Ravelry message is a good way to go.
I have a quick question..... if a pattern does not specify what to do on the WS (neither written nor charted), would I assume that they are all purled rows? I'm knitting a pattern called "twisted cables" and it did not specify anything about the WS, so I did all purl rows... well the pattern has turned out quite different from what it's supposed to be. Almost as if it's only knitting half of the cable. 😕 Any help would be appreciated, thanks! 😆
Wow - you mean to say that the pattern left out half of the instructions? That's not okay! I highly suggest contacting the pattern designer (Ravelry message is a good way to do that) and asking them what you're supposed to do on WS rows! (That said, I'm wondering if the pattern wasn't intended to be knit in-the-round, with no wrong-side rows, meaning all of the instructions are actually there.)
VeryPink Knits actually I kept knitting with just purling the wrong side rows and the pattern emerged 😜. It didn't look at all like the pattern at first, it resembled more of a lacey pattern than a ribbed cable pattern but it all worked out. Thanks so much for your response though!! I'll know what to do next time I run into this problem. 😉
The chart i'm reading has no information other than a color yarn key and the actual color chart (it has no row numbers etc) The chart is made for a smaller piece so how do I alter the chart so I can make it for a larger piece (ie. blanket) would I just multiply each square evenly?
letitbemykenzie - I can't really answer that specific question, but in general, you can use graph paper to create any color design you like, and use it in your knitting. Google "knitters' graph paper" for graph paper with properly proportioned squares you can print.
How do I do a chart for letters in circular knitting and have the word come out correctly and not back wards. I stopped at this point I'm ready to do the letters Seahawks on my hat
Tammy A - unless the letters go all the way around the circular knitting (with no lengthy breaks), it is easier to knit in a solid color, and use duplicate stitch to stitch your design in after the fact: ruclips.net/video/-cfmjyaaAdw/видео.html
I am looking at a pattern and I noticed blacked out means no stitches how do get to the next stitches in lets say three blacked out to the next purl or knit? I hope I am saying this right.
Not exactly...that's a whole different ball game. I have a video on double knitting (you can search for it), but you'll want to contact the pattern designer for pattern support.
As a self-taught knitter your videos are a godsend!!! They are so helpful and easy to understand. Plus your vibe is just so comforting and I wish I had someone like in you in real life for when I need help!
Just dropping a comment to say thank you! Your videos are usually my go-to as a new knitter whenever I have questions because they're always so concise and clear.
I LOVE your videos! I learned to knit and crochet from my grandmother when I was a little tot (only way she could get me to sit still) but she is left handed and I am right handed so i've had to relearn and basically start over with right handed knitting and crocheting. Your videos have really helped me improve my knitting for both my left and right side since you explain things beyond hand dominance. It's really helped me step up my knitting game and even teach my grandma a thing or two! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, you have a gift.
Oh, I can see the frustration! :) Patterns do that to give you more options for modification. If they say "multiple of 12 stitches +1", they are allowing you to make the item as wide or narrow as you like by making the number of stitches in the pattern repeat clear. Hope that helps!
Thank you so much for clarifying right side and wrong side for flat pieces. I couldn't find this info in any other video I've seen. Excited to try fair isle. Very beautiful!
So helpful!!! You are my “GoTo” as I teach myself more challenging knitting projects! You are appreciated!
Loretta
You need to work every row of a chart, regardless of whether you're knitting a flat piece, or working in-the-round. If you're knitting a flat piece, you read right side rows from right to left, and wrong side rows from left to right. If you're working in-the-round, you work every row from right to left. Don't skip any rows!
Yes - there is software out there to help you design charts. I don't know the names of them, but I've seen them advertised on Ravelry. I personally find that Microsoft Excel does a fine job of helping me create charts. (If you're asking about software to help you with general pattern design, not charts, sorry, I don't know of any software that does that.) Hope that helps!
Thank you, thank you - I was always iffy about how it worked, but never took the time to sit down and figure it out and so have avoided using charts.
You're a love! :)
Hi Pink, Deb C here. I had asked what to do with the black blocks indicating "NO STITCH", I did contact several people who have made this pattern, with no response. I took the picture of this sock and increased it to 400% . These black blocks are deffinitely Slips. And it works.
I needed to learn to knit colorwork for a project I want to start and your videos have been so helpful! Anytime I need to learn a new stich or technique I scroll around to see if you made a video on it yet. =)
Thank you so much for your instruction. Love the visuals!
ah-ha!! Now I get it! Your videos are lifesavers!! Thank you.
Thank you very much. I'm learning to double knit and didn't understand that you read a chart from right to left and then left to right with double points!!!
Ah ha! I just found this. Ignore the request for charting...on the counting knit stitches or reading knit stitches.
I'm still learning this RUclips stuff.
Thanks :)
thank you for doing this video! I was unsure how to read charts and this made it easier to read them
thank you so much! your videos have been a lot of help to me - I am about to start my first charted pattern!!! :D
Thank you! Now I know why my bicycle motif was facing the wrong way!
Can't wait to start a pattern with a chart now!
Thanks for that what happens if you are left handed & knit left handed like I do: would you read the charts from left to right?
That depends - if you are a leftie, but you still knit on to an empty needle in your right hand, then you want to read the charts from R to L, as I demonstrate here. If you are a leftie who knits onto an empty needle in your left hand, you are a mirror knitter. If the chart is symmetrical, there is no need to do anything differently, but a mirror knitter will want to read stitch and color charts backwards if the design is asymmetrical.
I am knitting the Georgiana Shawlette. It's done on circular needles only to accomodate the number of stitches. I've finished the first 6 rows, mainly purl rows with a row in the middle of k2, yo, k2 etc to the end to create a row of eyelets. Well, I've done the first patterned row, then a row of purl. So now I'm on row 3 of Lower Border A. I ignored the first (no stitch) and knit 17 stitches, then I'm supposed to do an ssk, but I only have 2 stitches on this first of many multiple repeats. How should I read this? I've never followed a pattern before that has NO STITCHES in it...confused...
I'm not familiar with this pattern - I recommend contacting the pattern designer directly for support. Good designers support their patterns and get back to you quickly with answers to your questions.
@@verypinkknits Hi, I have finished this beautiful shawl and I'm thrilled with it!
I am praying you will still get this and can understand what I am asking. I have tried to contact the designer with no response. The chart pattern is an upside down triangle shaped shawl so the bottom or first line of the chart is more narrow than on the top of the chart due to increases in the pattern. The top row of the chart finishes out with 51 stitches. There is a 12 st repeat outlined in red with stitches on either side of the red box that was used in the initial pattern. Pattern says to repeat rows 1-24 a multiple of 7 times. When I do the repeat, do I knit the stitches at the front of the red box row 1, knit the repeat, knit the repeat, and then do the stitches on the other side of the red box? If this is correct that would only give me 41 stitches and if I do another repeat there are too many stitches for the row count. Do I knit an incomplete repeat and finish out with the stitches on the outside of the red box? Thanks so much for your help.
You've got it right about repeating the repeat section in the red box, over and over, and knitting the first and last stitches once. You should be coming up with the correct number of stitches! This is really a question for the designer. I'm sorry to hear you're knitting a pattern without designer support - all designers should support their patterns. You can also look in the comments on Ravelry to see how others got to the correct stitch count, or ask someone on Ravelry who has finished knitting it. But don't buy any more patterns from this designer!
@@verypinkknits Thanks for your time and response. I will just have to work with it and see if l can get the first repeat row to work out and go from there. Thanks again.
@@verypinkknits Got it! Thanks.
I'm going first row, then back left to right (second row) but my counts are all off.
Question! I have a color chart, knitting flat, but it has a A & B diagram. So I would knit the RS starting from R to L with M.2A then finish with M.2B. Here is my question; When knitting the WS do I start with M.2B then go to M.2A. If it helps the pattern is Baby drops 19-1. Thanks!
+Jeni Britto - sorry, I can't answer that without being familiar with the pattern. Your best bet is to contact the designer directly. Ravelry message is a good way to ask questions directly to pattern designers.
Can you also do a video on reading a knitting pattern?
concise, but clear. thanks!
I have 3 charts in an Aran square. Charts A & B has 24 rows, repeat 3x. Chart C has only 16 rows. When I reach the end of chart C at row 16, do I start back on row 1, which would be row 17 of Charts A & B? Or just plain knit in Chart C until I reach then end of row 24 ?
+Darlene Winther - you may need to contact the pattern designer for your answer, but usually when you work different charts in the same pattern you finish each chart and start over again with Row 1, regardless of how it lines up with the other charts. So you'll be back on Row 1 of Chart C, and on Row 17 of Charts A & B. (if you're still confused, please contact the pattern designer for a concrete answer on this specific pattern)
This chart is for an argyle repeat what would you say is the best technique for this? I have only ever attempted this colorwork type once and used a method of carrying to do it.
That is a good question, Keoki. Personally, unless the pattern continued all the way around a sweater (or hat, or whatever), I would use duplicate stitch instead of intarsia knitting. I find all of those bobbins of yarn to be cumbersome. If the pattern did continue all the way around, I would carry the colors. Here is my video on duplicate stitch: ruclips.net/video/-cfmjyaaAdw/видео.html
Help!? I'm knitting a pattern with a lot of black blocks within each row. the instructions say there is NOT any stitches in the black blocks. The next row, and the next, and the next also has black blocks in the same places more or less. Am I slipping those stitches or carrying the thread on the back side until I get back to the stitched blocks. It is a single color, sock pattern, IN the Round, a lacy type pattern on the top of the foot. Seems like carrying the thread 7 or more stitch spaces is going to be a potential toe catcher. If you want to SEE what I mean, It is the Woodland Walk pattern free on Ravelry. I have tried to contact the designer but the email comes back undeliverable.
Debra - this video should help: ruclips.net/video/8n88rzwEpsk/видео.html
Nope, not fair isle style. It's knitting lace. The black blocks not having any stitches creates a hole row after row lasting several rows. Maybe a lace knitting video ould help.
I recommend contacting the pattern designer directly with your question - Ravelry message is usually a good way to do that.
A pattern I want to make has a chart with blank areas with no grid , I don't get how to read it. I believe it to be an advanced knitting chart. The pattern is Sweet Dreams by Drops Design. I'd love to see a tutorial on a chart similar to this so I can make it, maybe . It looks too scary confusing.
No sorry that was Sweet Memories, it's a poncho .
S.Arts.Wut - when a chart has empty squares, it is usually because the previous row had you decrease, so there is no stitch there. If you had ten stitches, and Row 1 has you decrease 5, the following row will only have 5 solid squares, and 5 empty squares, because 5 stitches were decreased out. For the most accurate information about the specific pattern you're working on, I suggest contacting the pattern designer directly - Ravelry message is a good way to go.
I have a quick question..... if a pattern does not specify what to do on the WS (neither written nor charted), would I assume that they are all purled rows?
I'm knitting a pattern called "twisted cables" and it did not specify anything about the WS, so I did all purl rows... well the pattern has turned out quite different from what it's supposed to be. Almost as if it's only knitting half of the cable. 😕 Any help would be appreciated, thanks! 😆
Wow - you mean to say that the pattern left out half of the instructions? That's not okay! I highly suggest contacting the pattern designer (Ravelry message is a good way to do that) and asking them what you're supposed to do on WS rows! (That said, I'm wondering if the pattern wasn't intended to be knit in-the-round, with no wrong-side rows, meaning all of the instructions are actually there.)
VeryPink Knits actually I kept knitting with just purling the wrong side rows and the pattern emerged 😜. It didn't look at all like the pattern at first, it resembled more of a lacey pattern than a ribbed cable pattern but it all worked out. Thanks so much for your response though!! I'll know what to do next time I run into this problem. 😉
Thank you! I understand this.
The chart i'm reading has no information other than a color yarn key and the actual color chart (it has no row numbers etc) The chart is made for a smaller piece so how do I alter the chart so I can make it for a larger piece (ie. blanket) would I just multiply each square evenly?
letitbemykenzie - I can't really answer that specific question, but in general, you can use graph paper to create any color design you like, and use it in your knitting. Google "knitters' graph paper" for graph paper with properly proportioned squares you can print.
Thank you!
How do I do a chart for letters in circular knitting and have the word come out correctly and not back wards. I stopped at this point I'm ready to do the letters Seahawks on my hat
Tammy A - unless the letters go all the way around the circular knitting (with no lengthy breaks), it is easier to knit in a solid color, and use duplicate stitch to stitch your design in after the fact: ruclips.net/video/-cfmjyaaAdw/видео.html
I am looking at a pattern and I noticed blacked out means no stitches how do get to the next stitches in lets say three blacked out to the next purl or knit? I hope I am saying this right.
This video explains it - ruclips.net/video/8n88rzwEpsk/видео.html
Do double knitting charts follow these 'rules' as well?
Not exactly...that's a whole different ball game. I have a video on double knitting (you can search for it), but you'll want to contact the pattern designer for pattern support.
is there a software you know off to design patterns of our own?
Ty
YOU ARE SO AWESOME!!!..... just to let you know ^-^