I am building a 5.0 almost exactly like that one for a 93 Bronco, and my 1st set of alum heads. Thanks for the info but, what made me smile is the old Buick in the background. My 1st car (in 1974) was a 1965 Buick Le Sabre 2 door hardtop. Thanks for the memory.
I just interacted with you on Facebook about how you helped while building my 302. I used those heads on. It love them, makes great power with an F cam and a cobra intake. 👍🏻
I do mine the same way , if you leave them hand tight like arp says to do they will move and weep past threads . Threads with sealer have to be engaged or the won't seal. I use gray silicone or #2 permatex. Love your videos .
3:40 if these are ARP L19 it should be known an ARP representer said these L19 are prone to hydrogen embrittlement if exposed to sweat acid moisture etc they should be handled with gloves.
351w bottom bolts do not go in the coolant passages. I literally just built my 351 unless this is something they do differently with a roller block all my holes where sealed 100% also the 351w has a 1/2in hole the 302 has a 7/16
ARP's website says their torque instructs a single torque, using their lube, and you used thread sealant on half of the bolts, which would mean you need a different torque spec. I still agree with the way you did it though. It makes alot of sense, and you don;t have a test lab on determining exact torque using different thread lubes. Just FYI on some of my own research. Thanks for the great video!
I'm anxious to see how this Mabbco (goes). I used one of their 300 inline 6 heads on my rat. My head didn't have hardened seats.. I think it was $260 with new seats, valves and 3 angle valve job. Free shipping.
Great thanks again. Have you told the Galaxie she is getting a new heart. We know you loved beating on the rotstang but Galaxie is deserving to be on the he road again cruising proud.
Don’t know if you remember driving next to the black suv on university after leaving the Phillips 66 on Monday afternoon, in the minty chevy van, but if you do that was me trying to say HI, couldn’t get your attention tho. Took me a minuet to figure out why I recognized you but I got it. Keep on dialin bruther.
License plate oatmeal? Yes I do recall, figured it was just a guy poking fun at the camper van/dog hauler ha! Ames are the stomping grounds - the girl is in vet school so I’ll be around for awhile. Isu grad 2016
Oh hell yea, , been watching you since before the Virginia internship of I believe 2015? Been craving min back to your channel for years. Goin home for summer tomorrow, the oatmeal plates are usually on my 86 dodge w150 but the Honda is a “little”more reliable and easier on gas for the long drive home.
Can you make a video on the torquing of the lower intake manifolds on these 302's? What is the proper number of torque sequences before you get your gaskets fully compressed? Love your channel!
I think I do have a few videos out there on torquing down the intake manifold 👍 If you look through the playlists on my channel, the one where I do the performance too end build on the 302 is a good reference!
@@ThunderHead289 do you not have to torque down the studs? Im asking bc i just ordered new arp studs for my 306 im putting on a set speedmaster 210cc aluminum heads on and its my first head swap so im learning also ive had trouble getting a straight answer on how much to torque down the the heads & i dont want to damage the heads if they are supposed to be torqued less than iron heads and im running mls headgaskets and i dont know if the torque specs are different because of that
I have a ford 302 with a set of AFR 185 enforcer cylinder heads, and I have a trick flow stage 1 cam .498”/ .510” , 112 lobe separation 221/225, and a RPM air tap intake, is this a good combination matched cam with heads? Looking to make around 330hp
You should never install studs in the block before placing the head on the deck. material can be scraped off by the exposed threads on the stud and contaminate the gasket. A steel core laminate head gasket is pretty forgiving as far as deck cleanliness is concerned, but for a MLS head gasket this would not fly at all. clean mating deck surfaces with coffee filters, no lint.
+theblackmech that’s a good point, I agree. The careless guy will probably end up causing himself issues if he doesn’t do well with his drop on alignment
theblackmech I definitely can agree with that. I would say that that’s definitely a better method to install everything. Glad we can all learn and move forward together. I need to pin this comment. Thank you for your insight. (That still means that you need to clean the threads and prep everything properly folks! Ha!)
leading to the point of the head bolt lands being square and affecting the angle a stud protrudes from the deck surface. the problem with them not being perfectly square is that the longer they are the farther or closer they will be to each other at the end of the stud, possibly enough to make it impossible to install the head without scraping some material on the exposed stud threading.
never put lube on the block side, sanding the block side with 80 grit is a good idea! reason is if the washer spins the tq spec will not be accurate! ive seen guys snap even arp stud or strip the block by those washers spinning! always make sure they do not spin!
Looking good, you gonna put this is the rotstang? The big biannual swap meet at the state fairgrounds is May 4 and 5, I'd like to buy you an icy cold beverage or two hit me up if your gonna go.
Absolutely do NOT lube the underside of the washers, it will cause improper torque readings. Lube only the threads and the underside of the nut. Sorry to nit pick, but it’s important. It’s in the directions from ARP.
First off I love your videos thanks for the content. Second you ever delt with a rope type rear main seal. My Ford inline six has one have no idea what to do
The rubber and rope is wierd usually it’s one of the other not both, though My dads 49 Chevy 3100 has a 235 (not the original engine) with a rope seal, they work great if you install them correctly, there all kinds of tips and tricks on the Stovebolt chevy forums, people generally leave one side cut flush and one slightly long.( about the thickness of a popsicle stick) protruding from the block usually, or the rear main cap. Doesn’t matter. Though I’ve only been able to do it with the crank slightly dropped, past expierencies of trying to do it with out “loosening” the crank are miserable and alaways still leaked. Trying to Push rope, 0/10 would not recommend.
I need your help ! So I pulled this 350 sbc out of my Monte Carlo I built. It ran great I just wanted to go a different route with that car. So I dropped it into my camaro. But I'm having problems. I had to get a new starter an I'm using a distributor I was using for the 350 I took out of the camaro it ran well. But when I start it. It fires right up than dies within seconds I have 6 pounds of fuel pressure with summit carb float levels are good. I checked all my grounds even ran the battery terminal from the dizzy straight to batter to check if I wasn't getting spark after I started but I'm stumped. An help is greatly appreciated !
Did you go with 351 firing order? Are you using a 303 style cam? Thank you nice engine. I have the same brand engine in my crown Vic with 303 a cam and 351 firing order. Made a lot of difference in power. I have 36000 miles on mine. Good so far. I think how you brake in and change oil makes for a great little engine. Made my 86 crown Vic a cool sleeper at stop signs. Do you still have the Rotstang? Thank you are a great help to many people.
its a comp cam xe266hr cam - 351 firing order, my rot body mustang had an e303 in it which woke it up alot in the rpm. when the rotstang lays over, i plan to 5 speed swap and carb out an 80s 4 door vic.
ThunderHead289 my Vic has first year fuel injection with 20 lbs injectors. I could buy higher ones but I think they are for supper charged police cars. Good shows man.
Super Duty 455 this is my very long and drawn out review of the mabbco unit. Did a review when I got it where I tore it down and checked it over - it was actually decent outside of being 60 over! Woah.
ThunderHead289 yep, I remember when you picked it up a long while ago. That's what I'm talking about though; .060 and I'm just a tad leery. The price is extremely enticing though.
same, i have heard better from them than others amazingly. i think they do alright with the old pushrod engines, which makes sense. we will have to see how 60 over goes. i really should dump it in the rotstang and beat the crap out of it. - currently it is destined for the galaxie
I am building a 5.0 almost exactly like that one for a 93 Bronco, and my 1st set of alum heads. Thanks for the info but, what made me smile is the old Buick in the background. My 1st car (in 1974) was a 1965 Buick Le Sabre 2 door hardtop. Thanks for the memory.
I just interacted with you on Facebook about how you helped while building my 302. I used those heads on. It love them, makes great power with an F cam and a cobra intake. 👍🏻
ARP suggests never using a tap to clean threads....always a thread chaser.
Shade Tree solution is cutting vertical grooves in a used OEM bolt.
I do mine the same way , if you leave them hand tight like arp says to do they will move and weep past threads . Threads with sealer have to be engaged or the won't seal. I use gray silicone or #2 permatex. Love your videos .
3:40 if these are ARP L19 it should be known an ARP representer said these L19 are prone to hydrogen embrittlement if exposed to sweat acid moisture etc they should be handled with gloves.
351w bottom bolts do not go in the coolant passages. I literally just built my 351 unless this is something they do differently with a roller block all my holes where sealed 100% also the 351w has a 1/2in hole the 302 has a 7/16
ARP's website says their torque instructs a single torque, using their lube, and you used thread sealant on half of the bolts, which would mean you need a different torque spec. I still agree with the way you did it though. It makes alot of sense, and you don;t have a test lab on determining exact torque using different thread lubes. Just FYI on some of my own research. Thanks for the great video!
I'm anxious to see how this Mabbco (goes). I used one of their 300 inline 6 heads on my rat. My head didn't have hardened seats.. I think it was $260 with new seats, valves and 3 angle valve job. Free shipping.
Got a 400 ford that I can't get original head bolts for and may have to use ARP head bolts good info on this.
So you don't need to use any thread locker?? Even on cast iron blocks? Thanks! Love the channel ☯️ FORD POWER 👍
Great thanks again. Have you told the Galaxie she is getting a new heart. We know you loved beating on the rotstang but Galaxie is deserving to be on the he road again cruising proud.
I agree. The galaxie needs to be completed sometime this year. 100 percent
Real men want to hang out at thunderheads house 👌
Wow you sure got some nice Hardware on top of that thing is that the mabbco engine short block
Cleanliness is close to Godliness, and be careful with torqueing, be patient and take your time.
Don’t know if you remember driving next to the black suv on university after leaving the Phillips 66 on Monday afternoon, in the minty chevy van, but if you do that was me trying to say HI, couldn’t get your attention tho. Took me a minuet to figure out why I recognized you but I got it. Keep on dialin bruther.
License plate oatmeal?
Yes I do recall, figured it was just a guy poking fun at the camper van/dog hauler ha!
Ames are the stomping grounds - the girl is in vet school so I’ll be around for awhile. Isu grad 2016
Oh hell yea, , been watching you since before the Virginia internship of I believe 2015? Been craving min back to your channel for years. Goin home for summer tomorrow, the oatmeal plates are usually on my 86 dodge w150 but the Honda is a “little”more reliable and easier on gas for the long drive home.
Bla English, I’m a mechanical engineering major, take it easy and GO CYCLONES!!!
use a leather chamois to wipe it down so there is no lint or particulates.
Can you make a video on the torquing of the lower intake manifolds on these 302's? What is the proper number of torque sequences before you get your gaskets fully compressed? Love your channel!
I think I do have a few videos out there on torquing down the intake manifold 👍
If you look through the playlists on my channel, the one where I do the performance too end build on the 302 is a good reference!
@@ThunderHead289 do you not have to torque down the studs? Im asking bc i just ordered new arp studs for my 306 im putting on a set speedmaster 210cc aluminum heads on and its my first head swap so im learning also ive had trouble getting a straight answer on how much to torque down the the heads & i dont want to damage the heads if they are supposed to be torqued less than iron heads and im running mls headgaskets and i dont know if the torque specs are different because of that
I have a ford 302 with a set of AFR 185 enforcer cylinder heads, and I have a trick flow stage 1 cam .498”/ .510” , 112 lobe separation 221/225, and a RPM air tap intake, is this a good combination matched cam with heads?
Looking to make around 330hp
awesome video...
nice man, I'm about to the same thing to my motor i na few days! Keep em coming
Good stuff man... great videos 👍
You should never install studs in the block before placing the head on the deck. material can be scraped off by the exposed threads on the stud and contaminate the gasket. A steel core laminate head gasket is pretty forgiving as far as deck cleanliness is concerned, but for a MLS head gasket this would not fly at all. clean mating deck surfaces with coffee filters, no lint.
+theblackmech that’s a good point, I agree. The careless guy will probably end up causing himself issues if he doesn’t do well with his drop on alignment
the head bolt lands very rarely are perfectly square to the deck surface. the longer the stud, the more the angle will be exaggerated.
theblackmech I definitely can agree with that. I would say that that’s definitely a better method to install everything. Glad we can all learn and move forward together. I need to pin this comment. Thank you for your insight.
(That still means that you need to clean the threads and prep everything properly folks! Ha!)
leading to the point of the head bolt lands being square and affecting the angle a stud protrudes from the deck surface. the problem with them not being perfectly square is that the longer they are the farther or closer they will be to each other at the end of the stud, possibly enough to make it impossible to install the head without scraping some material on the exposed stud threading.
With a bbc studs before heads is like shingles before roof
never put lube on the block side, sanding the block side with 80 grit is a good idea! reason is if the washer spins the tq spec will not be accurate! ive seen guys snap even arp stud or strip the block by those washers spinning! always make sure they do not spin!
Ford has a new pushrod V8 coming out.
Looking good, you gonna put this is the rotstang? The big biannual swap meet at the state fairgrounds is May 4 and 5, I'd like to buy you an icy cold beverage or two hit me up if your gonna go.
Absolutely do NOT lube the underside of the washers, it will cause improper torque readings.
Lube only the threads and the underside of the nut.
Sorry to nit pick, but it’s important.
It’s in the directions from ARP.
you are correct 100 percent and it can cause big issues! then they blame the bolt or stud
First off I love your videos thanks for the content. Second you ever delt with a rope type rear main seal. My Ford inline six has one have no idea what to do
i dont know if i have - its been awhile since i have done a two piece rear main seal - is this what you have ?
Yeah. One piece is like a fibrous rope and the other half is like normal rubber. It's really wierd
The rubber and rope is wierd usually it’s one of the other not both, though My dads 49 Chevy 3100 has a 235 (not the original engine) with a rope seal, they work great if you install them correctly, there all kinds of tips and tricks on the Stovebolt chevy forums, people generally leave one side cut flush and one slightly long.( about the thickness of a popsicle stick) protruding from the block usually, or the rear main cap. Doesn’t matter. Though I’ve only been able to do it with the crank slightly dropped, past expierencies of trying to do it with out “loosening” the crank are miserable and alaways still leaked. Trying to Push rope, 0/10 would not recommend.
You should use Nitrile gloves so you can protect your hands from getting stained and dried out.
I need your help ! So I pulled this 350 sbc out of my Monte Carlo I built. It ran great I just wanted to go a different route with that car. So I dropped it into my camaro. But I'm having problems. I had to get a new starter an I'm using a distributor I was using for the 350 I took out of the camaro it ran well. But when I start it. It fires right up than dies within seconds I have 6 pounds of fuel pressure with summit carb float levels are good. I checked all my grounds even ran the battery terminal from the dizzy straight to batter to check if I wasn't getting spark after I started but I'm stumped. An help is greatly appreciated !
Also if I hit the throttle it back fires and dies
Did you go with 351 firing order? Are you using a 303 style cam? Thank you nice engine. I have the same brand engine in my crown Vic with 303 a cam and 351 firing order. Made a lot of difference in power. I have 36000 miles on mine. Good so far. I think how you brake in and change oil makes for a great little engine. Made my 86 crown Vic a cool sleeper at stop signs. Do you still have the Rotstang? Thank you are a great help to many people.
its a comp cam xe266hr cam - 351 firing order, my rot body mustang had an e303 in it which woke it up alot in the rpm. when the rotstang lays over, i plan to 5 speed swap and carb out an 80s 4 door vic.
ThunderHead289 my Vic has first year fuel injection with 20 lbs injectors. I could buy higher ones but I think they are for supper charged police cars. Good shows man.
Would you ever use loktite on head studs?
Bruce I try to avoid using loktite inside of an engine - but on that note there are guys who do without any ill effects.
For me that depends. If the engine is going to have a power adder. ( nitrous, turbo ECT.) Then I lock the studs. Otherwise I don't.
the boosted guys do like to use a bit of loktite - good info there.
ThunderHead289 yea using head bolts on a boosted engine is no a good idea. The heads like to lift stretching the head bolts.
0:52 Don't say that, you look great.
I'll stick with the bolts.
Mabbco isn't too far away from where I live but their reviews are just awful. Did you find anything unusual or horrible with them?
Super Duty 455 this is my very long and drawn out review of the mabbco unit. Did a review when I got it where I tore it down and checked it over - it was actually decent outside of being 60 over! Woah.
ThunderHead289 yep, I remember when you picked it up a long while ago. That's what I'm talking about though; .060 and I'm just a tad leery. The price is extremely enticing though.
same, i have heard better from them than others amazingly. i think they do alright with the old pushrod engines, which makes sense.
we will have to see how 60 over goes. i really should dump it in the rotstang and beat the crap out of it. - currently it is destined for the galaxie
Dont ever use studs. They do not have tencile stretch, and will com loose etc. Original bolts are best.