IMPROVED DIY Garden PVC Drip Irrigation

Here’s a great DIY way to get water right at your garden plant’s root zone. This minimizes the use of water because it’s only used right where it’s needed. This GREATLY suppresses the weeds as well.
#irrigation #gardeningtips #dripirrigation
This is our second iteration of this system. The first one was adequate, and we got good results. This new version is much improved, using larger supply and return manifolds, flow balancing valves, and most significantly, a return manifold that makes the setup a “closed-loop.”
Build the setup using standard PVC pipe, fittings, valves, and a garden hose to pipe fitting. We use 1” (25mm) pipe and fittings for the supply and return manifold, and ¾” (19mm) pipe for the laterals that run along the plant rows.
We water a plot of about 200 corn plants in a space about 11’ x 30’ (3.4m x 9m) as well as raised beds that are about 4’ x 8’ (1.2m x 2.4m), We don’t think we’d use this approach for anything much bigger. There are better “off the shelf” products out there for that.
Our spacing for corn is 9” (about 230mm) in a row, with the rows about 30” to 32” (about 800mm) apart. This works well for shading, cultivation, pollination, and wind resistance.
This low-tech system simply uses a high-quality commercial ⅝” (16mm) garden hose attached to one of our hose bibs that delivers about 60 PSI (pounds per square inch) and the hose outputs just under 16 gallons per minute (GPM) or about 950 gallons per hour (GPH). For those using the metric system that would be about 61 liters per minute or 3596 liters per hour.
Water volume needs to be sufficient with this “leaky” system. 1/16” holes (1.6mm) holes are drilled in a straight line along the lateral pipes at the pitch (distance apart) you need for the crops you are growing. If you mix crops and pitches of the holes, balance the water flow using the diversion valves.
You have three methods to adjust the system.
First, hose volume. Too little, and the system will “starve out” before getting water to all the plants. Too much, and you will have joints starting to work apart, as well as too strong of streams of water. You want the water to land within a very short distance from the pipe.
The second is flow balance valves installed in the manifolds. With two on each manifold, we’ve been able to fine-tune the system using only one of them, but if we were mixing crops, then they would be used more.
The third is by first raising sections that are getting too much water. You can do this with blocks of wood, bricks, or squarish rocks. However, with the return manifold, we’ve not had to resort to this, as the system tends to balance itself out well.
Begin by getting all your supplies and parts together, Mark straight lines down the sides of all the pipe parts to use as a reference when drilling and assembling. The printing on the pipes isn’t usually straight and you want water coming out of all the holes in the same plane. The same goes for assembling the tees and elbows on the manifolds.
To get straight lines, tape together 3 or 4 pipes about 4 places along the length. Make sure the batch isn’t twisted but is lying flat. Use a permanent marker to draw lines down the length where the pipes nest next to each other. Cut the tape and you’re ready to go.
Glue the manifolds together for easier storage, setup, and tear-down, but the rest of the system simply pushes together.
Use a 1/16” (1.6 mm) drill bit to drill holes at the pitch (distance apart) you require, always drilling on your reference line.
When making the manifolds, you will have an extra fitting on the supply side because of the hose attachment. So, be sure to assemble the two manifolds side by side to get the tees and elbows to line up so you’ll have nice straight rows, and the system goes together easier.
Assemble the system, and flush out dirt and plastic bits by leaving the return manifold off. Then assemble, and balance the water flow. The wet spots on the plot will also tell you exactly where to plant! I plant a couple of inches to the side of the pipe.
To maintain the system, check joints from time to time, and use your drill bit to clean out clogged holes. Cover the manifolds to delay UV damage (we use mulch) and be sure to disassemble and store the parts out of the sun over the winter.
And, yes, you could add a hose timer to further automate the system!
We are aware that there are various opinions on whether or not to use PVC for safety and health reasons. We are fine with this approach, but that’s your decision.
There are ready-made systems available, along with emitter tapes and the like. We’ve used them, and they work fine, but we like the rigidity of the pipe that helps in the layout of the system as well as bundling it up at season’s end to store until the fun begins all over again!
JUST DO IT YOURSELF!
Instagram: / dirtfarmerj
Facebook: / dirtfarmerjay

[@genxfarmer4629]

Best weed control I found is to tarp the ground for a week after weeds start then remove the tarp allow the second generation to grow some then retarp for a week then plant your crop

[@n0nitwitz]

I’m a new sub due to needing this system. Thank you for being so specific and including all the data needed for a beginner. The only way you could improve it for me would be to show how to build the manifolds. Thx again.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Glad to be of help!

[@novampires223]

I did this 20 years ago, with schedule 40! Not the pale yellow junk. I like them because they last forever and a shovel won't chop them in half, the fittings are replaceable, I can remove the ends and flush the lines. . Mine did not crumble, fade or get brittle. I left them out year round with no covering.
By the way, it's the same pipe your house water runs through..

[@joannereed2352]

I have been using a system like this for years. It is a good system and it waters my crops effectively.
I hook my hose to it and water for about 15 to 20 minutes.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Right on. Glad to hear this has been a great approach for you. We are getting ready to set ours up again for the season and get that corn growing! Best, DFJ

[@joannereed2352]

I garden year round and the PVC stays in the Texas sun and shows no signs of wear.

[@Ojb_1959]

Great info! How do you plug any drip holes you don’t need?

[@sleepydrJ]

Can you please explain why you drill the pvc instead of using drip tubing or drip tape?

[@tomhorrigan5769]

Do you have any raised beds and if so how do you irrigate them??

[@JohnVHLife]

Ive done similar with PVC for a couple years, sure, it works ok, but I went to drip tape like they use in blue berries and raspberries, and what a better system, more consistent, easy to roll up to get out of the way for the next till, etc.

[@DirtFarmerJay]

Thanks for the insight. You've proved that there is more than one good way to approach this type of thing. Thanks for passing on the info to your fellow viewers. Best Regards, DFJ

[@n0nitwitz]

I’d love to see a video of how to put it together with fittings etc.

[@JohnVHLife]

@@n0nitwitz The drip tape setup? or?

[@n0nitwitz]

@@JohnVHLife yes for a know nothing like me

[@killaeffect8850]

Can you describe the outflow manifold a little better please?

[@Trooper4985]

Sounds much better at 3/4 time, otherwise Jay sounds like he just had some of Hunter's crack.