I enjoyed your video, but I have a question about your trailer. A lot of the vac trailer videos are 130 barrels, but I believe yours is 150 barrels. I would like to ask if it because you have a day cab? I just purchased an Inveco 440 cabover designed for tanker operations. It is a heavy duty model truck but I think it’s lighter than a sleeper truck. I need to weigh it and calculate what 150 barrels of water weighs, and the tare weight of the truck and trailer. As long as my gross is less than 80,000, I should be good to have a 150 barrel trailer, right? Finally, do you haul 150 barrels or 149? Thanks in advance.
Its ok to have tails that are a few links too long so you can chain up after you get stuck but make sure the tails are short enough so they dont destroy your fenders.
It can be difficult to do with those tightening clasps, but if your chains have quick hooks- commonly called 'J' hooks(usually found on chains that have the multiple cam tighteners), you can put the last link of the tail on the hook and push it up out of the way, then bring up the link you want to use to get that side rail tight, & hook that one on. It will hold the rest of the slack up out of the way & the long tails won't be slapping against the road.
Depending on the truck, triples are almost always quite a bit more of a pain in the a$$ to put on the front drives than the rears...10 years in the oilfield & I've only chained all 8 drive tires ONCE on my double bottom, & that was a big load on 100% ice coming up out of a location that's down in a nasty hole(I also had 1 steer tire chained & 1 drag chain on the pup for that one in case it spun out). But with normal weight distribution on level ground, loaded or empty, the FRONT drive axle ALWAYS gets better traction than the rear. It's just the way physics works with a truck tractor. That's why the rubber on the rear drive tires wears down quicker that the front drives- from scrubbing around corners. So... if I'm chaining up just to pull a steep grade in a straight line, I'll start with triples on the rear drives because the center of gravity will be rocked backwards over the drives. If that isn't quite enough, I'll put singles on the outside front drives for a bit more bite. But if I just need some traction on relatively level terrain, like after an ice storm or a thaw/freeze cycle(I work night shift), I'll usually just put a pair of singles on the front drives & that's plenty. From my experience on level ground, just a pair of singles on the front drives provides ALMOST as much traction as triples on the rears. You don't have to worry about wearing out your triples as fast if you happen to run on some bare, wet pavement, and installation is much easier & quicker. I can throw a pair of singles, snug 'em up and be rolling again before the ELD even realizes that I stopped moving.
My company didnt supply singles to use on drives. If we get stuck without triple rails on we pay to have the grader come get us. And around utah they check to make sure they know who to bill. And i never drive on snow and ice or mud without my diff lock on.
If you are only throwing one set on, then it’s better to chain the very front axle. Whatever gravel/sand gets kicked up from the lead aids in traction for the axles behind.
I carry a mix of general service chains & spiked chains. A lot of the time there's quite a few miles of snow packed pavement in combination with some off-road travel on my routes in the oilfield & you don't want to wear out your spikes, so I'll put on the sqaure-link chains. But if I do get into a shitty situation, the spikes are there if I need 'em.
@@lukeemms2036 I assume you are referring to Trygg brand tire chains with the round stock type studs. Where I am in north western Alberta ( Grande Prairie area ) Tryggs seem to be the go to tire chains for whatever reasons and its been this way for years, they are good quality chains and of course if sized right ( the cross section mm of material used ) for the application. Cheap Chinese chains would not last five seconds from what I have seen demonstrated by some youtube channels so doubt any oil field or logging company would own that type of garbage. I'm sure those are good quality chains in the video just so no one thinks I am putting them down, they would not damage pavement like the aggressive studded Tryggs.
This is the best chain video I've seen
Thank you so much for the easy explanation! I just did my chains for the. First time thank you and my hubby on the phone
Put the slack on the middle rail also on the hook
I enjoyed your video, but I have a question about your trailer. A lot of the vac trailer videos are 130 barrels, but I believe yours is 150 barrels. I would like to ask if it because you have a day cab?
I just purchased an Inveco 440 cabover designed for tanker operations. It is a heavy duty model truck but I think it’s lighter than a sleeper truck. I need to weigh it and calculate what 150 barrels of water weighs, and the tare weight of the truck and trailer. As long as my gross is less than 80,000, I should be good to have a 150 barrel trailer, right? Finally, do you haul 150 barrels or 149? Thanks in advance.
Its ok to have tails that are a few links too long so you can chain up after you get stuck but make sure the tails are short enough so they dont destroy your fenders.
It can be difficult to do with those tightening clasps, but if your chains have quick hooks- commonly called 'J' hooks(usually found on chains that have the multiple cam tighteners), you can put the last link of the tail on the hook and push it up out of the way, then bring up the link you want to use to get that side rail tight, & hook that one on. It will hold the rest of the slack up out of the way & the long tails won't be slapping against the road.
An difference in chaining the front or rear drive axle?
No
Depending on the truck, triples are almost always quite a bit more of a pain in the a$$ to put on the front drives than the rears...10 years in the oilfield & I've only chained all 8 drive tires ONCE on my double bottom, & that was a big load on 100% ice coming up out of a location that's down in a nasty hole(I also had 1 steer tire chained & 1 drag chain on the pup for that one in case it spun out).
But with normal weight distribution on level ground, loaded or empty, the FRONT drive axle ALWAYS gets better traction than the rear. It's just the way physics works with a truck tractor. That's why the rubber on the rear drive tires wears down quicker that the front drives- from scrubbing around corners.
So... if I'm chaining up just to pull a steep grade in a straight line, I'll start with triples on the rear drives because the center of gravity will be rocked backwards over the drives. If that isn't quite enough, I'll put singles on the outside front drives for a bit more bite.
But if I just need some traction on relatively level terrain, like after an ice storm or a thaw/freeze cycle(I work night shift), I'll usually just put a pair of singles on the front drives & that's plenty.
From my experience on level ground, just a pair of singles on the front drives provides ALMOST as much traction as triples on the rears. You don't have to worry about wearing out your triples as fast if you happen to run on some bare, wet pavement, and installation is much easier & quicker. I can throw a pair of singles, snug 'em up and be rolling again before the ELD even realizes that I stopped moving.
My company didnt supply singles to use on drives. If we get stuck without triple rails on we pay to have the grader come get us. And around utah they check to make sure they know who to bill. And i never drive on snow and ice or mud without my diff lock on.
If you are only throwing one set on, then it’s better to chain the very front axle. Whatever gravel/sand gets kicked up from the lead aids in traction for the axles behind.
Get chains with cams and ice picks.
I carry a mix of general service chains & spiked chains. A lot of the time there's quite a few miles of snow packed pavement in combination with some off-road travel on my routes in the oilfield & you don't want to wear out your spikes, so I'll put on the sqaure-link chains. But if I do get into a shitty situation, the spikes are there if I need 'em.
I drive in the oilfield these are mud chains
@@elitepknuable I don’t know if it’s an Alberta thing but we run heavyweight chains and they always have lugs of picks on the cross rails
@@lukeemms2036 I assume you are referring to Trygg brand tire chains with the round stock type studs. Where I am in north western Alberta ( Grande Prairie area ) Tryggs seem to be the go to tire chains for whatever reasons and its been this way for years, they are good quality chains and of course if sized right ( the cross section mm of material used ) for the application. Cheap Chinese chains would not last five seconds from what I have seen demonstrated by some youtube channels so doubt any oil field or logging company would own that type of garbage. I'm sure those are good quality chains in the video just so no one thinks I am putting them down, they would not damage pavement like the aggressive studded Tryggs.
Thanks