Errata: 1:59:50: the wall/hitch described here appears to be a hammer dog fit issue. When doing the hammer dog fitment test described in the chapter starting 1:17:21 on a 6-round gun, the wall indicator a too-short hammer dog may occur after the cylinder unlocks and begins to turn, unlike on 8-round guns.
This 2 hr video is the best I’ve seen for the GP100. The attention to detail is top notch. The smallest bearing surfaces were clearly defined and shown in removing only enough to smooth the action. The video is pertinent to the SRH and Sp101 in terms of disassembly and polishing. Trigger, hammer dog, and hammer shims were covered too. I while I am no master gunsmith, I have worked on guns for 50 years and know my carry gun while fishing in the Montana and Idaho will remain the SRH Alaskan 480 with a good polishing of the parts and stock hammer springs. My GP 100s in 327 and 357 mag are smooth as butter with lightened springs. It doesn’t take much to ruin a part already fitted at factory and Jay points out the critical areas. Thank you sir for a taking the time to produce this video.
This is one of the most amazing videos I've ever seen in regards to the detail and care given to each aspect as of this gun or really any gun, actually. You, sir, are one of RUclips's greatest heroes, and I mean that quite literally
Thanks! I don't know if I'd say I have a great screen presence in general, but I will say that I can do enough takes in a row until it looks like I do.
Thank you for this... I did a trigger job on my GP100 some time ago, might be time to revisit the GP100. Have been "sleeping" in the safe for far too long. Greetings from Denmark.
Ive looked at the gp100 at my local shop so many times and i love the way it looks plus the guns are solid as you could ever hope for. Ive hesitated on buying one every time because the triggers are so heavy and almost sticky..not gritty or anything. Just a bit resistant for my taste. After watching this i just might have to get one. Because i love to tinker. And anything that involves goofin around with gun parts to smooth things out is always interesting to me. Damn, i think i need to get a gp100 now.
Excellent! Thank you. I watched it throught to familiarize myself before starting and will undoubtedly watch it multiple times throughout the process(es).
@JaySlaterOfMars The cylinder latch "hitch" described at the 2:00:00 or so mark I believe may be trigger plunger related. My GP100 suffered from the cylinder latch snapping up very late and an excess of tension from the pawl spring. This caused a notable bind about 1/3rd through the pull until the latch snapper upward. I removed material off both the nose and the rear of the trigger plunger. This decreased the time until the latch snapped up and decreased the tension placed upon the plunger by the pawl spring. No more hitch. Hammer dog fit seems to manifest in the last 2/3rds of the pull as the hammer dog is supposed to "hand off" the trigger to the DA sear at the bottom of the hammer.
Thanks for the tip! Timing is one of the things that's definitely different between the 6 and 8 round guns-all of my 8-rounders have pretty early cylinder latch timing, whereas I don't totally recall what the 6-rounder is like. (I could really use another one or two of them before I say much for certain.) I'll have a look and experiment some, and if I come to the same conclusion, I'll credit you in the errata.
Thankyou for this video, it's perfect and I don't think somebody could do it better. I've kept both my GP-100 and Security Six completely plain aside from this internal work. While the Security Six has slightly different internals, I was able to do most of it and got significant improvement after just the first try. I hated my Six trigger when I first got it, you had to use so much force to cycle and by the time you were about to feel a wall you might as well have just yanked the trigger. It still could use more work, at least I can consistently stage it now. You rock Jay
Sure thing! The Ruger DA revolver shop manual I mentioned in the video is a great buy if you have a Security Six-all of the measurements and tolerances it gives will actually apply to that gun directly.
I just wanted to add one more thing to this already great video. I was curious about a ever so slightly gritty feel I attributed to the hammer strut head (the circular shaped portion opposite of where you'd put a pin to retain the seat & spring). In addition to completely smoothing the hammer strut, I polished the channel it rides under the hammer with some sand paper, working my way up to ultra fine sand paper. I still wasn't satisfied. I took a chance on a Dremel chainsaw sharpening set, and using the 3/16" bit (which fit perfectly) to completely smooth out that channel, finishing by polishing said channel. If you try this, you don't want to remove much material, just enough to smooth out the rough, machined surface. Now, it's trigger is very comparable to my Colt. Stay safe everyone
Good vid. Reguardless of what some ppl swear by, one _can_ polish most surfaces with a dremel safely. Just use felt/cloth buffing wheels and mild jeweler’s rouge or comparable buffing compound. Use on the lowest speed setting and re-apply compound to the felt often. Let the tool do the work: dont use pressure. It will shine up the surface nicely and quickly. Youd have to do A LOT of work to actually damaging the engagement surfaces in this way. Ive slickened up quite a few s&w’s this way.
Hey Jay! Thank you for this video. I really appreciate all the effort you put into this. Some of these tricks I knew about from iowegans posts online but I just learned a lot of new stuff. I have a couple match champs for idpa but I want to try uspsa. Do you have any advice on tracking down a super gp100. I keep getting out bid by the deep pockets on GunBroker and these things are really hard to find
They're very hard to find. Both of my 9mms came to me used, and one of them on specific terms because I'm using it so actively in competition. The .357s are a little more common, and as far as I know, Ruger still intends to produce more of them, so you might be able to pick one up from a dealer at non-ludicrous prices if you keep your eye out. If you're on the Enos forum and know Michael Poggie's handle, you might try asking him. He has some certificates for Super GPs in, and intends to sell them when they arrive, as I understand.
Yeah I'm gonna try to snag a 357 one, I just got a bunch of starline short colt to load for it once I find one. I'm gonna see if I can track down poggie and dm him thanks again
8:24 Nice. There's the design Ruger never paid me for. I went through pictures, sketches and drawings of what I wanted to do. We agreed that they would send 2 revolvers to me for modification. I didn't hear anything for 2 years and then "my" design came out. It's flattering but not very respectful. Problem is that their model is sub standard. They obviously didn't understand all features and just copied part of it.
Great video thank you a lot! Maybe you could do a video or make recommendation here for the GP 100 grip for IDPA. I have been thinking to take match champion grip but read that they do not fit well GP 100. Interesting what are your thoughts and experiences.
All of my guns have the plain, no-finger-groove Hogue rubber grips on them, SKU 80010. I don't like wood on competition revolvers, and have run into issues with grips that are secured with a screw that passes by the mainspring strut.
I bought a used 1990 GP-100 back in 2013. ( I have never shot it). While cleaning it I nicked the cone just a little. Will it hurt the gun or me to shoot it like that? It seems like the gap between the cylinder and the frame is a little big. I called Ruger several years ago and explained to the lady what had happened. She said for ninety dollars they would inspect it and charge me according for any repairs needed. Should I take a chance to shoot it or send it back to the Ruger factory? I do not know a lot about handguns. I have never shot a 357 mag. I bought it cause my state was passing a law to make it hard near impossible to buy a handgun here. It was the only gun I could find at the time. Consumers were buying up on all handguns at the time. It looks like a nice gun. I was told it had one local owner before me and sadly he passed away and his white sold it at the pawn shop I bought it from. Can you give me any advice? I'm sorry for the long post here.
Rugers are looser than other revolvers in barrel-cylinder gap tolerance. If you have a set of feeler gauges, hold the cylinder to the rear and measure the barrel-cylinder gap. 0.006" is ideal. The spec goes to 0.008", but I've had guns at 0.010" or 0.012" that function fine. The effects of a nick in the forcing cone will depend on where exactly it is. If it's on the outer rim, no problem. If it's on the inner rim (the corner between the surface that faces the cylinder and the inside of the cone), copper-jacketed bullets should be fine, but the barrel will probably foul more quickly if you shoot lead or polymer-coated bullets, and I would definitely address it. If it's a gouge in the inner surface of the cone that doesn't have any raised edges, I think it's probably also fine. You wouldn't regret sending it to Ruger for peace of mind, however.
I am about to start polishing my ruger. What is it that you put on the sandpaper before polishing? Water or a drop of some oil? Any alternative liquid I can use?
It's a drop of gun oil, which I understand helps keep the sandpaper from clogging with metal particles. I don't think it's critical to use it, but each little patch of sandpaper seems to last a little longer if you do.
If I may ask what front sight do you recommend for IDPA in Ruger GP 100? Is Hi Viz Fiber Optic OK? Would you also change rear sight or leave factory adjustable sight?
All three of my guns have the Ruger factory fiber optic front sight, which I believe is either manufactured by HiViz or copied from it, so it's a solid option. I may experiment with a narrower front sight blade this year, however. In dim or gloomy conditions, the relatively wide HiViz blade can be tough to center correctly in the notch. I shot factory adjustable rears for a long time, blacked out with a Sharpie. They weren't perfectly trustworthy in keeping zero over high round counts, in my experience. Put witness marks on them with a paint pen if you're going to stick with them. All of my guns wear Bowen Rough Country rear sights now, which have withstood an awful lot of travel and shooting now without issue.
Just got a .357/.38 GP100 for IDPA use (I'm primarily a USPSA semi-auto shooter). Do you know if the extended cylinder release is legal for IDPA? Also - mine doesn't seem to throw the cases out very well - is there anything I can do to help with that?
The Hogue release is not legal for IDPA, as far as I know, based on A5.7.1 in the IDPA gear rules appendix. I'm working on a part that meets those requirements, however, and should have it fully worked out by about May. For ejection, I don't have much advice, unfortunately. Even .38 Special, in a .357 gun, doesn't come fully out of the chambers on a full stroke of the ejector. From a technique perspective, when I was running moon clip .38 in USPSA, I found that a more vertical gun and an extremely authoritative slap of the ejector rod helped. (I know some guys who reload with the weak hand most of the time, but switch to a strong hand reload in ICORE Classic/IDPA Stock Revolver, because it's easier to get the gun vertical in the weak hand.) From a gunsmithing perspective, I see some people talk about running a flexi-hone, or some 400-800-grit sandpaper on a dowel, through the chambers, if you can see any machining marks in them. The IBOK doesn't say anything about it either way; Iowegan doesn't recommend anything beyond light polishing, and only then if you can in fact see machining marks. I'll try to remember to check Kuhnhausen when I get home, to see if he weighs in one way or the other.
Nothing in the Kuhnhausen manual about cylinder honing either way. rugerforum.net may have more up-to-date information, or additional advice on getting good ejection.
Not at the moment, but if there's sufficient interest, I may eventually start. If you're looking for someone now, Dave Olhasso (olhasso.com) is the premier Ruger whisperer, in my opinion.
Ok so unrelated question to triggers. I notice the hogue cylinder release handle on your supers, but your 10mm has a shortened paddle thing on it I've never seen before. I run the long hogue ones on my idpa match champs and my local matches haven't said anything to me about it. But I'm pretty sure that when I show up to my first state matches (Oklahoma and Texas this year) they will tell me it's not allowed. Where did you get the short paddle one on your 10mm?
I 3D printed it. Sadly, I need to go back to the drawing board: I printed the entire cylinder release piece, but the stress of the hammer/transfer bar pushing on it caused it to break after some dry fire, in a way that suggests plastic is the wrong material. My next plan is a little extension that can be superglued onto the stock release, which I think will work for an IDPA-sized part. Failing that, maybe I try to make one that fits on the dovetail on Hogue's. My understanding, like yours, is that the Hogue long paddle is probably not IDPA-legal, which is why I went down this path. For the IDPA match in a week, I'll just have to train myself to break grip and aim very carefully for the button, I guess.
Thanks for the detailed video. I installed the MCarbo spring kit in my SP101 and followed their polishing instructions. Everything went well. When I saw your video I decided to go back in and polish the other parts and sear engagement areas. It reduced the single action trigger from 3-1/2 to 3LB. On double action I now have a hitch in the middle of the pull. It's kind of like a wall and I can see the transfer bar jump a little. The pull was smooth prior to installing the main spring. I wonder what I did wrong and what do I need to look at specifically? I made a short Rumble video of the action.
I'd have to see the video to say more confidently, but most hitches/gags mid-pull have to do with hammer dog fit. A wall in the middle of the pull typically happens when the hammer dog is a little too short-the DA sear surface on the trigger hits the DA sear surface on the front underside of the hammer. The quick test is to cut out a tiny rectangle of aluminum foil and tuck it in behind the top of the hammer dog in the hammer. If the issue goes away, then the hammer dog is just a hair too short. To save a bit of time, you can probably reproduce the issue by putting resistance on the hammer with your thumb, leaving the mainspring out. This part is extremely speculative, but experimentation with my GP100 suggests it's a little more sensitive to hammer dog fit than the Super Redhawk/Super GP frame size; the compact frame might be more so. I really need to get an SP101.
Correct-I have a hard time saying 'thousandths' clearly, so I borrow the US engineering shorthand in the video. (Only now do I realize that it's possibly confusing in a context where mils also can be a measure of angle.)
@@JaySlaterOfMars thanks for reading and responding. Yeah, some people will abbreviate milradians and/or millimeters as 'mils'. I'm sure anybody following your instructions will understand what you mean🫡
I haven't worn any out yet! It's conceivable they might eventually need to be replaced, but I haven't hit that point yet with >100,000 trigger pulls on one gun.
Thanks for the video! I’ve been looking at the Super GP100 9mm for some time now. How well does it perform and does it have issues with light primer strikes?
I think it's a very competitive option for IPSC/USPSA-style shooting. Beyond what I say in the video-that it can be tuned down to a pretty light pull, even if not quite as light as S&Ws-it's built like an absolute tank. With the factory springs, it lit every kind of ammo I threw at it. It's pickier now with the competition tune, but it's about 99.9% reliable with my handloads. One maintenance item, if you're using light springs a lot, is to check hammer fall weight on a schedule. With a heavy dry fire schedule, pulling the trigger a lot can wear out the hammer spring over time. All that being said, the 9mm guns are extremely hard to find right now-Ruger hasn't made a new one in a couple of years. I keep hearing that they're on the way, though.
Mate thanks for your reply and for sharing your expertise. I might know a supplier who has one and have been on the fence about making the purchase but you’ve put me at ease regarding my decision. I’m a new sub for sure!
Errata:
1:59:50: the wall/hitch described here appears to be a hammer dog fit issue. When doing the hammer dog fitment test described in the chapter starting 1:17:21 on a 6-round gun, the wall indicator a too-short hammer dog may occur after the cylinder unlocks and begins to turn, unlike on 8-round guns.
This 2 hr video is the best I’ve seen for the GP100. The attention to detail is top notch. The smallest bearing surfaces were clearly defined and shown in removing only enough to smooth the action. The video is pertinent to the SRH and Sp101 in terms of disassembly and polishing. Trigger, hammer dog, and hammer shims were covered too. I while I am no master gunsmith, I have worked on guns for 50 years and know my carry gun while fishing in the Montana and Idaho will remain the SRH Alaskan 480 with a good polishing of the parts and stock hammer springs. My GP 100s in 327 and 357 mag are smooth as butter with lightened springs. It doesn’t take much to ruin a part already fitted at factory and Jay points out the critical areas. Thank you sir for a taking the time to produce this video.
Thanks for your kind words!
Brother. This is the absolute best Ruger GP100 video I have ever seen.
This is one of the most amazing videos I've ever seen in regards to the detail and care given to each aspect as of this gun or really any gun, actually.
You, sir, are one of RUclips's greatest heroes, and I mean that quite literally
Thank you very much!
Dude. Im impressed. Thank you, from a smith & wesson guy.
Dude this video is amazing! Also you have a great screen presence and it's obvious you know what you're talking about.
Thanks!
I don't know if I'd say I have a great screen presence in general, but I will say that I can do enough takes in a row until it looks like I do.
@@JaySlaterOfMars That's what it's all about. Rehearsal is key
This video is insanely good. Extremely comprehensive and easy to follow. Outstanding sir.
Outstanding Video!
Thank you for this... I did a trigger job on my GP100 some time ago, might be time to revisit the GP100. Have been "sleeping" in the safe for far too long. Greetings from Denmark.
Ive looked at the gp100 at my local shop so many times and i love the way it looks plus the guns are solid as you could ever hope for.
Ive hesitated on buying one every time because the triggers are so heavy and almost sticky..not gritty or anything. Just a bit resistant for my taste.
After watching this i just might have to get one. Because i love to tinker. And anything that involves goofin around with gun parts to smooth things out is always interesting to me.
Damn, i think i need to get a gp100 now.
Excellent! Thank you. I watched it throught to familiarize myself before starting and will undoubtedly watch it multiple times throughout the process(es).
@JaySlaterOfMars The cylinder latch "hitch" described at the 2:00:00 or so mark I believe may be trigger plunger related. My GP100 suffered from the cylinder latch snapping up very late and an excess of tension from the pawl spring. This caused a notable bind about 1/3rd through the pull until the latch snapper upward.
I removed material off both the nose and the rear of the trigger plunger. This decreased the time until the latch snapped up and decreased the tension placed upon the plunger by the pawl spring. No more hitch.
Hammer dog fit seems to manifest in the last 2/3rds of the pull as the hammer dog is supposed to "hand off" the trigger to the DA sear at the bottom of the hammer.
Thanks for the tip!
Timing is one of the things that's definitely different between the 6 and 8 round guns-all of my 8-rounders have pretty early cylinder latch timing, whereas I don't totally recall what the 6-rounder is like. (I could really use another one or two of them before I say much for certain.) I'll have a look and experiment some, and if I come to the same conclusion, I'll credit you in the errata.
Thankyou for this video, it's perfect and I don't think somebody could do it better. I've kept both my GP-100 and Security Six completely plain aside from this internal work.
While the Security Six has slightly different internals, I was able to do most of it and got significant improvement after just the first try. I hated my Six trigger when I first got it, you had to use so much force to cycle and by the time you were about to feel a wall you might as well have just yanked the trigger. It still could use more work, at least I can consistently stage it now. You rock Jay
Sure thing!
The Ruger DA revolver shop manual I mentioned in the video is a great buy if you have a Security Six-all of the measurements and tolerances it gives will actually apply to that gun directly.
I just wanted to add one more thing to this already great video.
I was curious about a ever so slightly gritty feel I attributed to the hammer strut head (the circular shaped portion opposite of where you'd put a pin to retain the seat & spring).
In addition to completely smoothing the hammer strut, I polished the channel it rides under the hammer with some sand paper, working my way up to ultra fine sand paper. I still wasn't satisfied. I took a chance on a Dremel chainsaw sharpening set, and using the 3/16" bit (which fit perfectly) to completely smooth out that channel, finishing by polishing said channel. If you try this, you don't want to remove much material, just enough to smooth out the rough, machined surface.
Now, it's trigger is very comparable to my Colt. Stay safe everyone
That's a great tip. It's a very difficult place to get with sandpaper.
This was terrific to watch! My inner eng geek is very satisfied. Thank you! Subscribed!
Thanks for putting this out for other rev shooters to benefit.
Buying my first gp100 tomorrow can't wait
I got a 4" GP100 (blued carbon steel) six months ago and love it! Ruger's customer service is outstanding. Enjoy and happy shooting.
@@Zona-dw9rp man I love mine it's a great revolver
Good vid. Reguardless of what some ppl swear by, one _can_ polish most surfaces with a dremel safely. Just use felt/cloth buffing wheels and mild jeweler’s rouge or comparable buffing compound. Use on the lowest speed setting and re-apply compound to the felt often. Let the tool do the work: dont use pressure. It will shine up the surface nicely and quickly. Youd have to do A LOT of work to actually damaging the engagement surfaces in this way. Ive slickened up quite a few s&w’s this way.
Thanks very much. Well done and lots of great advice and insight
Hey Jay! Thank you for this video. I really appreciate all the effort you put into this. Some of these tricks I knew about from iowegans posts online but I just learned a lot of new stuff. I have a couple match champs for idpa but I want to try uspsa. Do you have any advice on tracking down a super gp100. I keep getting out bid by the deep pockets on GunBroker and these things are really hard to find
They're very hard to find. Both of my 9mms came to me used, and one of them on specific terms because I'm using it so actively in competition.
The .357s are a little more common, and as far as I know, Ruger still intends to produce more of them, so you might be able to pick one up from a dealer at non-ludicrous prices if you keep your eye out.
If you're on the Enos forum and know Michael Poggie's handle, you might try asking him. He has some certificates for Super GPs in, and intends to sell them when they arrive, as I understand.
Yeah I'm gonna try to snag a 357 one, I just got a bunch of starline short colt to load for it once I find one. I'm gonna see if I can track down poggie and dm him thanks again
8:24 Nice. There's the design Ruger never paid me for. I went through pictures, sketches and drawings of what I wanted to do. We agreed that they would send 2 revolvers to me for modification. I didn't hear anything for 2 years and then "my" design came out. It's flattering but not very respectful. Problem is that their model is sub standard. They obviously didn't understand all features and just copied part of it.
Great Video, I have been shooting GP100 since 1989 and Jay you did an outstanding job on this project.
Great video thank you a lot! Maybe you could do a video or make recommendation here for the GP 100 grip for IDPA. I have been thinking to take match champion grip but read that they do not fit well GP 100. Interesting what are your thoughts and experiences.
All of my guns have the plain, no-finger-groove Hogue rubber grips on them, SKU 80010. I don't like wood on competition revolvers, and have run into issues with grips that are secured with a screw that passes by the mainspring strut.
@@JaySlaterOfMars appreciate for the explanation!
This is an insane amount of work you put into this! Oh my goodness. THANK YOU
I bought a used 1990 GP-100 back in 2013. ( I have never shot it). While cleaning it I nicked the cone just a little. Will it hurt the gun or me to shoot it like that? It seems like the gap between the cylinder and the frame is a little big. I called Ruger several years ago and explained to the lady what had happened. She said for ninety dollars they would inspect it and charge me according for any repairs needed. Should I take a chance to shoot it or send it back to the Ruger factory? I do not know a lot about handguns. I have never shot a 357 mag. I bought it cause my state was passing a law to make it hard near impossible to buy a handgun here. It was the only gun I could find at the time. Consumers were buying up on all handguns at the time. It looks like a nice gun. I was told it had one local owner before me and sadly he passed away and his white sold it at the pawn shop I bought it from. Can you give me any advice? I'm sorry for the long post here.
Rugers are looser than other revolvers in barrel-cylinder gap tolerance. If you have a set of feeler gauges, hold the cylinder to the rear and measure the barrel-cylinder gap. 0.006" is ideal. The spec goes to 0.008", but I've had guns at 0.010" or 0.012" that function fine.
The effects of a nick in the forcing cone will depend on where exactly it is. If it's on the outer rim, no problem. If it's on the inner rim (the corner between the surface that faces the cylinder and the inside of the cone), copper-jacketed bullets should be fine, but the barrel will probably foul more quickly if you shoot lead or polymer-coated bullets, and I would definitely address it. If it's a gouge in the inner surface of the cone that doesn't have any raised edges, I think it's probably also fine.
You wouldn't regret sending it to Ruger for peace of mind, however.
Getting a gp100 so this is gold! Sub!
I am about to start polishing my ruger. What is it that you put on the sandpaper before polishing? Water or a drop of some oil? Any alternative liquid I can use?
It's a drop of gun oil, which I understand helps keep the sandpaper from clogging with metal particles. I don't think it's critical to use it, but each little patch of sandpaper seems to last a little longer if you do.
@@JaySlaterOfMars Thank you very much! Now I am ready to copy you :)
If I may ask what front sight do you recommend for IDPA in Ruger GP 100? Is Hi Viz Fiber Optic OK? Would you also change rear sight or leave factory adjustable sight?
All three of my guns have the Ruger factory fiber optic front sight, which I believe is either manufactured by HiViz or copied from it, so it's a solid option. I may experiment with a narrower front sight blade this year, however. In dim or gloomy conditions, the relatively wide HiViz blade can be tough to center correctly in the notch.
I shot factory adjustable rears for a long time, blacked out with a Sharpie. They weren't perfectly trustworthy in keeping zero over high round counts, in my experience. Put witness marks on them with a paint pen if you're going to stick with them. All of my guns wear Bowen Rough Country rear sights now, which have withstood an awful lot of travel and shooting now without issue.
@@JaySlaterOfMars thank you 🙏
"I don't have any forks that I'm allowed to do that with"
ie, you've learned. LOL
I'm still in the learning stages, after 30 years. lol
Just got a .357/.38 GP100 for IDPA use (I'm primarily a USPSA semi-auto shooter). Do you know if the extended cylinder release is legal for IDPA? Also - mine doesn't seem to throw the cases out very well - is there anything I can do to help with that?
The Hogue release is not legal for IDPA, as far as I know, based on A5.7.1 in the IDPA gear rules appendix. I'm working on a part that meets those requirements, however, and should have it fully worked out by about May.
For ejection, I don't have much advice, unfortunately. Even .38 Special, in a .357 gun, doesn't come fully out of the chambers on a full stroke of the ejector. From a technique perspective, when I was running moon clip .38 in USPSA, I found that a more vertical gun and an extremely authoritative slap of the ejector rod helped. (I know some guys who reload with the weak hand most of the time, but switch to a strong hand reload in ICORE Classic/IDPA Stock Revolver, because it's easier to get the gun vertical in the weak hand.)
From a gunsmithing perspective, I see some people talk about running a flexi-hone, or some 400-800-grit sandpaper on a dowel, through the chambers, if you can see any machining marks in them. The IBOK doesn't say anything about it either way; Iowegan doesn't recommend anything beyond light polishing, and only then if you can in fact see machining marks.
I'll try to remember to check Kuhnhausen when I get home, to see if he weighs in one way or the other.
@@JaySlaterOfMars appreciate the reply - I'll be watching for an IDPA legal cylinder release!
Nothing in the Kuhnhausen manual about cylinder honing either way. rugerforum.net may have more up-to-date information, or additional advice on getting good ejection.
@@JaySlaterOfMars I will check out ruger forum - again - appreciate the help!
Excellent video sir.
Great information, awesome descriptions and good camera work. Thank you much for sharing !
Do u work on other people pistols also ?
Not at the moment, but if there's sufficient interest, I may eventually start.
If you're looking for someone now, Dave Olhasso (olhasso.com) is the premier Ruger whisperer, in my opinion.
I’d be interested
Ok so unrelated question to triggers. I notice the hogue cylinder release handle on your supers, but your 10mm has a shortened paddle thing on it I've never seen before. I run the long hogue ones on my idpa match champs and my local matches haven't said anything to me about it. But I'm pretty sure that when I show up to my first state matches (Oklahoma and Texas this year) they will tell me it's not allowed. Where did you get the short paddle one on your 10mm?
I 3D printed it. Sadly, I need to go back to the drawing board: I printed the entire cylinder release piece, but the stress of the hammer/transfer bar pushing on it caused it to break after some dry fire, in a way that suggests plastic is the wrong material.
My next plan is a little extension that can be superglued onto the stock release, which I think will work for an IDPA-sized part. Failing that, maybe I try to make one that fits on the dovetail on Hogue's.
My understanding, like yours, is that the Hogue long paddle is probably not IDPA-legal, which is why I went down this path. For the IDPA match in a week, I'll just have to train myself to break grip and aim very carefully for the button, I guess.
If you find one that works, cut an extra and I'll pay you for it lol
Thanks for the detailed video. I installed the MCarbo spring kit in my SP101 and followed their polishing instructions. Everything went well. When I saw your video I decided to go back in and polish the other parts and sear engagement areas. It reduced the single action trigger from 3-1/2 to 3LB. On double action I now have a hitch in the middle of the pull. It's kind of like a wall and I can see the transfer bar jump a little. The pull was smooth prior to installing the main spring. I wonder what I did wrong and what do I need to look at specifically? I made a short Rumble video of the action.
I'd have to see the video to say more confidently, but most hitches/gags mid-pull have to do with hammer dog fit. A wall in the middle of the pull typically happens when the hammer dog is a little too short-the DA sear surface on the trigger hits the DA sear surface on the front underside of the hammer. The quick test is to cut out a tiny rectangle of aluminum foil and tuck it in behind the top of the hammer dog in the hammer. If the issue goes away, then the hammer dog is just a hair too short. To save a bit of time, you can probably reproduce the issue by putting resistance on the hammer with your thumb, leaving the mainspring out.
This part is extremely speculative, but experimentation with my GP100 suggests it's a little more sensitive to hammer dog fit than the Super Redhawk/Super GP frame size; the compact frame might be more so. I really need to get an SP101.
@@JaySlaterOfMars I sent the link to you on Instagram.
@@JaySlaterOfMars Hi just installed a replacement hammer dog, (of course I did not polish it, and it's running great! Thanks os much!
When you're refrencing 'mils' of dimension, i believe you are meaning 'thousandths'. Excellent information.
Correct-I have a hard time saying 'thousandths' clearly, so I borrow the US engineering shorthand in the video. (Only now do I realize that it's possibly confusing in a context where mils also can be a measure of angle.)
@@JaySlaterOfMars thanks for reading and responding. Yeah, some people will abbreviate milradians and/or millimeters as 'mils'. I'm sure anybody following your instructions will understand what you mean🫡
Good video!
Thanks! I have a few addenda to record one of these days, based on more recent experience-just trying to find the time to make it happen.
Amazing video ruger should hire you thanks for the video
Ruger's pretty tight-lipped about this kind of thing-if they hired me I probably couldn't have made the video. :P
Do shims have to be replaced after enough rounds or usage?
I haven't worn any out yet! It's conceivable they might eventually need to be replaced, but I haven't hit that point yet with >100,000 trigger pulls on one gun.
Thanks for the video! I’ve been looking at the Super GP100 9mm for some time now. How well does it perform and does it have issues with light primer strikes?
I think it's a very competitive option for IPSC/USPSA-style shooting. Beyond what I say in the video-that it can be tuned down to a pretty light pull, even if not quite as light as S&Ws-it's built like an absolute tank.
With the factory springs, it lit every kind of ammo I threw at it. It's pickier now with the competition tune, but it's about 99.9% reliable with my handloads. One maintenance item, if you're using light springs a lot, is to check hammer fall weight on a schedule. With a heavy dry fire schedule, pulling the trigger a lot can wear out the hammer spring over time.
All that being said, the 9mm guns are extremely hard to find right now-Ruger hasn't made a new one in a couple of years. I keep hearing that they're on the way, though.
Mate thanks for your reply and for sharing your expertise. I might know a supplier who has one and have been on the fence about making the purchase but you’ve put me at ease regarding my decision. I’m a new sub for sure!
Much appreciated! Best of luck getting your hands on one. Feel free to leave another comment if you run into any trouble with it.