B&M 250 Supercharger: Re-restripping and Repairing Damaged Threads (78 Firebird Ep.29)
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- We finally got the supercharger back together only to tear one of the new teflon strips after turning it over. This time, we are taking it back apart to apply some critical thinking and creativity to the situation in hopes of getting a fresh set of teflon seals to break in without just breaking. Then, we have some unfinished business with the intake manifold's many questionable bolt holes that will need some attention.
Timeline of filming: May 12th, 2020 - November 19th. 2020
Song List (Order of First Appearance):
0:01 Twilight Train - Dan Lebowitz
6:11 Birds in Flight - Dan Lebowitz
12:50 The Opening - Dan Lebowitz
(All music provided by RUclips's Audio Library royalty free.)
Thanks for watching, and joining us on this adventure! Please let us know what you think! Consider supporting us via Patreon as well! / fuzzydiceprojects
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Check out our second channel for a variety of other content: / @fuzzydicepastimes
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays everyone! We are very close to the end of the supercharger rebuild shenanigans and I assure you that nobody is as relieved as me, next video is the last one focused on that topic and then we have all kinds of other things to get through before this engine lands itself in the Firebird for the first time.
best holiday gift
Merry Christmas and happy new year have a good holiday
Keep up the good work. One day you will move to a 6-71 blower, and youll never look back ;)
This is Darkbloods /\ Actual mechanical channel. giving a second thumbs up lol. this summer I will be doing my second gen with a blower build, similar to yours. Will be autocrossed as well. all steps will be on my channel.
As well you to you,I cannot simply wait to see how this project turns out lol always keeping me on my toes waiting for the next episode
What a headache of a build!
You're handling really well!
i love watching your videos because it's way more realistic. most folks (including me) don't have the time and resources to make everything showroom, and good enough is sometimes the name of the game
That thumbnail with the rotors parallel to each other is giving me hives.
The guy that sold this was a genius.
Came here a long time ago for the Blazer Build. It’s great to have a platform to watch real people do real world builds. Thank you for the content!!!
Thank you for your hardwork and the thoughtfulness you have for your audience, it's very much appreciated. Happy Holidays to you an yours.
Some of the best automotive content on RUclips! I can't wait to watch the result of your experiment here. Love it!
Great video series. Your perseverance is outstanding. Most people would have chucked the supercharge in the bin. Merry Christmas and have yourself a Happy New Year.
Ptfe creeps very noticeably, to the point where teflon rings/seals can be precompressed before a piston or valve shaft is installed, where it wouldn't fit if not precompressed. Temperature helps here as well. Creep is a function of time and force and temperature. So there really shouldn't be any 'break-in" but the fit improves. The snagging is probably the not compressed seals hitting the port edges. Ps. The less movement between the splines the better for longevity, perhaps you can add some bearing locking compound (a very weak one) or some method of shimming (paint, shim stock) else all that dampens the impacts (engines don't run smooth and the blower is also an uneven load) is the viscosity of the lubricant. Heat cycling the lobes in an oven a few times should help with the seals shrinking and moving to their unstretched shape, before trimming. I think you are doing a great job for how little mechanical engineering background you have, and the limited tools/equipment.
Good info, glad to have you watching our videos! I considered filling in the space between the splines with something but when researching it, it seemed like solutions were either permanent or so temporary that I may as well not bother as they could cause more trouble than good. Since the shaft needs to be removed from the front of the snout, it would get very difficult to disassemble the unit if I used spline/retaining compound in there.
As for the seals, there are changes from compression and temperature changes, but they also do very much break in by abrading against the case. Is that the best thing for them? Probably not, but they did shave down from a half-round shape to a trapezoid to fit the way they needed to.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects well the surface roughness of the bores is not the kindest to the seals now, so there definitely will be some wear untill some clearance exists
Well done..keep on keeping on 👍 you make excellent videos thank u
So excited every time a new video comes out and looking forward to even more.
Sandblasting a polished surface was a bad idea..
I agree, however a very thin smear (with a sponge) of ceramic coating/paint/lacquer would have been great after the abbrasion.
MY Christmas Came early this year with another awesome episode from Fuzzy Dice. haha Great video and can't wait to hear that motor rip!
shouldnt it turn the other way? is this a marine reverse rotation?
Use thread locker on the heli coils , nice video , thanks.
Good work, and thank you for uploading so close to Christmas. I'm sure you have a lot of other things people would rather you be doing!
My understanding is that thread inserts are, legitimately, much stronger so long as the depth remains the same. Nobody would have worked so hard to make the northstar v8s if they didn't!
Just got home from work and saw you uploaded a video. This has made my morning if not day and gave me something to watch while I make breakfast. Thank you for such great content
When you live in california and get the notification that fuzzy dice projects uploads @4 in the morning Achievement get Early bird gets the comment section
Cant wait to see this motor finished up and in the Firebird! Hopefully the final install goes well 🙏
Just a humble opinion here. I would have heated the rotors in an oven to enlarge the channel and make the Teflon install easier
keep pushing!!!!....doing a great job
Use compressed air dusters!!!
I got an old B&M 144ci supercharger that I am NOT looking forward to rebuilding when it needs it.
I ALSO determined that I want to run a throttle body fuel injection system instead of a carb. (Not recommended by the manufacturer.)
The idea is to be able to run 93 octane OR E85 (if I can find it) and only have to do minor tuning for each.
Any suggestions as to what to look at in making a selection? Seems everyone is making their own nowadays.
I’m stoked to see the amount of blowby out of that bad cylinder lol
It'll be a smokescreen like in the old nes James Bond game. Just stomp on the gas to activate.
Hello Mr Fuzzy Dice,
trained machinist here. I'd like to give you a couple of tips regarding yor handling of tools and stuff like that.
1- Buy a tap wrench and to be noted any cheap thing will do. Currently you run the risk of cutting the threads at an angle as well as making it easier to break the tap itself. The one sided turning with the adjustable wrench introduces radial forces. Additionally turning with a proper tap wrench is way more ergonomic and comortable.
2- When doing any drilling operation: Spin up the drill before contact with the material. Otherwise you'll crush the cutting edges of said drill and greatly diminish its performance. With a handdrill I'd recommend going with a slow speed and very low pressure on the drill until it bites the material. At that point increase the speed to the desired amount and increase pressure. Also use a lubricant when drilling whether it is WD40 old motor oil or PVBlaster it don't matter. Any oil will improve longevity and cutting action of a High Speed Steel drill immensly especially in aluminium.
3- If I were you I'd refrain from driving in bolts soley with an impact. You run the risk of cross threading the bolt and damaging or destroying it and the tapped hole. Start them by hand afterwards you're free to send 'em home with ugga duggas.
4- Regarding the input shaft I'd suggest changing the cylindrical key to a square one by filing the hole square. The dowell pin is more likely to be sheared off than a square key. If that's not possible (the filing) you should try to ream the hole at least and get a matching pin this will reduce the possibillity of shearing by reducing the slack within the pin and its hole.
Lastly I gotta say although my heart bleeds sometimes from the cardinal sins you commit in the world of machining and iron work in general I still greatly enjoy watching you push through the obstacles with limited tools and sheer perserverance.
In this spirit keep it up and Merry Christmas to you sir and god bless you.
I assume you were trying to get a backlash reading of sorts with the dial indicator reading off the gear tooth/pulley tooth ? The 1st thing you must know is the diameter of the gear(s) or coupling you are trying to get backlash reading on. As you are trying to achieve the reading further down the shaft or transmission. Often times you will need to produce a bracket to bolt to the end of said shaft where as an indicator plunger can be placed anywhere along the gear diameter radius equivalent. IE : If your actual gear OD is 3.000" mount the dial plunger at 3.000" any other place up or down the bracket will produce false information, this is why you were saying the numbers don't mean anything. They actually do mean something
About 20 years ago my buddys show car burned to the ground and I bought his all gm bow tie 413 striker off him for 400 bucks and put a weiand 871 blower on top in a s10 4x4 and was way way over driven it ran like a promod and drove it once and let my friend take it to the store and told him don’t hit it I don’t have the blow offs on it and waiting for my Pullies and what he do? Hit it and blew the blower about 75 ft in the air and literally shot rods and everything into the road I was so pissed that was a super expensive
Screw up and possibly about 2000 hp motor too. More than that block would handle
I’m a machinist and lube is your best friend when tapping cast aluminum. Moly-Dee works amazing. It smells to high heaven but gives the greatest outcome with cast aluminum or cast iron. Don’t be afraid of too much lube when tapping anything cast, it’ll save you in the long run
The thread repair really should have been taken to a good machine shop. Also, lathe cutting the rotor seals is a fairly simple affair.
This from a guy with a lathe and a mill in the garage...
DIY is great and brings pride but you also need to know your limits and when you need to pay someone else to do it right the first time. The thread repairs will likely give you troubles in the future. A blower drive system transfers a good bit of power and needs to be rigid. The locations, thread class, and perpendicularity of your repairs leave some to be desired - this comes from free-hand drilling and tapping for the thread inserts. Done on a mill and fixed straight and solid, the manifold would have much stronger thread repairs.
Good luck with it and have fun!
Will the clearances stay the same at operating temperature?
Yes another video
Hey Mr., new video, thank's for that christmas gift! And thank's for share knowledge! Congrats!
Running a bit of Teflon impregnated Dielectric grease along those seals would probably help them immensely. But the fact that the inside of that case is unpolished doesn't help.
Thank you 🙏 for sharing hard work 😓 time with knowledge and great 👍 experience ! 💰💸💵💰⚙️
You aren’t supposed to remove the supercharger to change the oil, you’re supposed to flip the car upside down to drain it. Trust me, I’m an expert on these things.
Merry Christmas and Happy, Healthy and Prosperous New Year to you and your family.
In theory, maybe you are wrong at all ☺️
Super charger is way different you think maybe?
You’re using the air tube apparatus backwards - the long end goes in your mouth allowing for a greater angle of entry thus lessening the chips in the mouth 😂
Would freezing the rotors over night help to destress the teflon? Thinking is the metal and teflon would shrink giving some wiggle room for it to pull itself inward and destress.
So sad, you had the ingenuity to build a flexible blower tool, but failed to remember to use it also as a suction tool, and used that expensive shop vac instead,🥴
Full thread serts are far better than helicoils in any repair that meets a water or oil passage... not knocking helicoils they are a quality project. Just harder to seal around .
I'm afraid that the Teflon will expand and lengthen, causing the ends to protrude into the housing.
for some reason, i suck, i lost track of this channel for about 4 years...Damn, you have a great channel here!
You need a welder for sure. You have no idea how many time welding a stripped out bolt hole and retapping it makes for a more secure fastener than heli coils
Stop using Helicoil thread inserts, they art junky at best. The solid body style inserts are substantially better.
good fix on threads, helicoil is super strong
The drive gears need to be shimmed to provide proper clearance and rotor timing. Looks like you need to check that.
Left the seals on the last bearing you installed just like you mentioned on the first 2. Guess it doesn't need oil lubrication. Lol
Imagine if you put it on the 302 in the Pinto...300 degrees? 400? Lol.
Whenever putting a threaded insert as in a larger bolt drilled and tapped you always peen the hell out of the outside with a punch or chisel to shrink the hole to grab said insert
There wasn't a hangup spot, there was a loose spot. You need a trimming jig for the apex seals
Have you checked the flatness of your case? Something is bent.
3:37 I wonder what my 420 is? And where did you get the teflon strips?
what I have learned from this spend the extra 2 grand and buy a new one way less frustration.
i have found "time serts" to be better. since they are solid, there is less chance of leakage.
Don’t hurt those precious hands. I don’t understand the need to wear gloves.
A rear differential only has like 12 thou of play, your gears are sloppy
*praying for this to work*
3 full turns after a good grab on an NPT tap is industry standard.
8:00 wait so you forgot the take of the plastic thing again, or is that meant to stay on?
Please take the intake off and clean out those tiny aluminum shaving. They could do some damage to your piston rings and make for a bad day in the future.
Also, I'm sure someone has already mentioned: you can use some grease when tapping threads to catch metal shavings.
Good luck on the build! I hope your engine runs better than my problematic Ls7.
Merry Christmas!
enjoying the videos thanks. Merry Christmas
So did you ever remove the orange seal on the snub bearing?
Looks like a case of "error and trial"... you bought someone else error, and it's putting your fix-it skills on n trial. If nothing else, you've given us an inside look at a supercharger, but fingers crossed that it will help spin the rear tires a little more aggressively. 👍
Stop using helicoil, and use the next size bolt.
I really enjoy your videos and the series on the big block rebuild with supercharger I watched your S10 build as well. You have alot of drive and passion and courage to make it all work, on top of that sharing videos that's a job in itself and requires stamina. I want to say I'm not alone here I'm sure, but I really appreciate you sharing it and I'm sure its not easy and happy 2023 to you and all the best cheers
Excellent problem solving skills. That’s what hot rodding is all about. No one knows everything going into something. But you stayed at it and reasoned your way thru it. If it works remember what you did for the next time. If it doesn’t, take it apart figure out what went wrong and try it again till you get it right. That’s what it’s all about.
Those 250 superchargers are one of my favorites! I had the 142, on a sb chevy, but it didn't look as cool as the 250. I miss that car,😞
Did we ever figure out the pinto overheating issue???
I've rebuilt my smaller b&m 177, I found failure rates was higher without lube on both inserting and the walls of the housing and also did have to trim down seals slightly.
bro. put the other side of the straw in to avoid chips...
love this video!, you earn a scuription
Stop using your drill to chase threads
Tip for next time, a little bit of red n tacky on the drillbit and tap will help with shavings. It's a well known thing in the sr world since you're probably going to be drilling and tapping the block for a turbo oil feed.
This really is some of the best content on youtube in my opinion! Very entertaining and educational, all packaged with excellent videoediting. Keep up the amazing work! :)
What works really good you should use key locks.
I believe the best tool you have right now is your patience.
Also, a properly installed helicoil is much stronger than the original aluminum threads.
Well done. Thanks for sharing your success and stumbles along the way. Too many edit out their missteps trying to protect their ego, if anything I respect you much more for being willing to share losses along the way to triumph!
Always love your content!! Merry Christmas from New Zealand. 🎅🎅
one of the most fun builds to watch on youtube, cant wait to hear it fire up someday, you gunna fire it up on a test stand before install?
Well now, this is how you learn. You are already well beyond beginner but of course all these challenges will only hone your skill towards expert.
Almost wonder if the unbalanced shaft is what destroyed the last seals. Looks very good though. Merry Christmas!
Fixing my daughter's 1993 Ford Ranger felt a lot like this.
You need a brass hammer! Haha sweet vid
I really like your video style and projects but 5 videos on one supercharger? It seems like at this point it would be more economical to buy a new engine 😅
I would love to see more abandoned car projects like you did 😄
It's the journey not the destination. "I bought a crate motor and a Edelbrock SuperCharger...., done".
Keynserts are another way of repairing threaded holes, that I have used with success in the past. Very strong, can be a bit fiddly though.
I could just watch Fuzzy Dice Projects videos all day every day. 😀
Good job Fuzz
You can use a broach set to cut key way and install square key vs the round pin.
14:59 The right way is to use a hardened punch to break the tap into pieces and extract them a little at a time. Yes, it does work with patience. There are also tap extractors that don't cost an arm and a leg.
edit; o yea, merry that whole Xmas thing.
Merry Christmas! You are my favorite car channel and I am excited whenever a new video comes out!
Great video again, glad to see everything is coming together.
Can you still leave your garage with all the snow and cold?
The seals desolves from wd-40
Prelube with silicone lube.
never use helicoils, use timeserts
Merry Christmas Mike, keep up the great work.
I'm here for the hood rat shit
Would heating the rotors and expanding them help with the seal install?
Im learning with you to do the same here in Brazil... Hahahaha
Always used a gm 671