I did this once on my 70 Chevelle, and I rented a McPherson strut spring compressor and it worked fine. Its like the jaws of life and grabs the springs from the outside and squeezes the coils together and allows you to get the springs in the right position before releasing the tension. Just another way of doing it..
if you don't have weight on the car you can use a long piece of 1/2 inch all thread in the shock mount holes and pull the spring together it takes some doing but with a few washers it works pretty good
heck I bought these control arms form kmj for the first gen for 249 for this kit and there not bad at all im happy with them for sure and will buy more for my other cars.
+Chris Mansker hello i just bought a set for my 67 did you have any issues with attaching sway bar? i want to cover every thing before i rip it apart thanks
I had to buy longer sway bar links I have a quickor 1 1/4 inch bar in front. I had to send one arm back as one end was welded on misaligned but the took care of it and its all good great value check out my video there on my car
Hey guys, you can install a spring without a load in the car by looping a chain around the axle of the jack up to and around the front frame rail. ( bolt ends together with no slack ) The frame will not lift when it's attached to the jack.
Great series , I'm restoring a 69 camaro and was wondering if you could do a video on door glass installation and adjustment. happy new year from australia
Awesome video & thanks. I just got my a-arms yesterday & was wondering if I should put the old shims back the way they were before I disassemble the old arms! Thanks guys!
You can use that as a starting point if you saved the shims and marked them. This will get you to the alignment shop for them to finalize it. Even so, I'd try and trailer the car to the shop.
Does that lower control arm bushing you put grease on to assemble rotate with the arm or does it remain stationary and the arm rotate around the white bushing?
Installed my a arms with new springs; and the upper a arm pulled down right to the bump stop( with a arm bolts still loose)Will this correct after wheels are on back on the ground . Thanks
Usually in a case like this everything will settle out as long as you don't tighten the bolts up initially. Go in and bounce the front of the car up-and-down a few times. Also roll the car backward and forward and then bounce it again. Then tighten up the bolts.
Hey - I know it was a long time ago that you put this up. I just did a BMR tubular upgrade on my 1967 Camaro convertible. I am rebuilding the front suspension - all stayed stock with anti sway and spindles. I can't find the torque specs ANYWHERE for the sway bar, and how far to tighten the top nut down. Obviously I can tell from a geometry standpoint that the more I tighten it down, the more extreme the angle. Is there a limit to how far dow you tight it? I can't find a video on that anywhere - any assistance would be appreciated.
Not sure why that happened. We have a link at the front of the show click that and resubscribe. We also have a mailing list that has an editorial from Jeff each week you can request to be included on our web site: www.autorestomod.com
No Gullstrand mod, no .5" longer upper ball joint, no .5" longer outer tie rod, nothing to improve on the steering geometry just a stock set up. Makes it look nice but no improvement in the steering or handling improvements. You need to do one of like this it ends up like a c5 vette geometry.
Those KMJ A-Arms come from China don't they? The reason why I ask this is because on e-bay you can get both sides, upper and lower for $400. That is unheard of compared to Hoskis or Global West where you are paying almost $1200 for both upper and lower control arms. How were they? I heard they have cheap ball joints in them, is that true? How did the car align? How did the owner say they were after some miles were put on them. I'm going to purchase a set but I am not sure about suspension parts from my 68 Camaro made in China. Thank you for your opinion
Christopher T Honestly Chris, we haven't had a chance to get with the owner to find out about his experiences aligning the front end. We're also not sure what the initial source for the arms are as they were provided to us by the owner.
They are NOT, LIGHTENING HOLES!!! The holes permit the gases that are produced from heavy friction between the pad and the rotor face, to escape into the vent 'vanes' in the middle. Therefore they (the holes) reduce brake FADE. THAT happens when the gas has no where to go and actually separates the two surfaces. (the harder you press on the peddle, you still don't stop!) And the overheating of the two surfaces, warps the rotor and breaks down the pad material..
Ok, no need to shout. So they do the same thing as the veins. Got it. With your passion you should work for a brake company...though I don't recommend shouting at the company meetings...
they dont align well i put that same control arm set up on my nova could not adjust chamber not enough vaster and ball joint boots fell apart after 2 weeks and bump stops on lower control arm dry rotted and fell off buy global west spend the money once dont cheap out. im paying the price now
Sorry to hear about the trouble! We've seen a general deterioration in the quality of boots on suspension pieces in the last few years. So that and the urethane problems fall more to the manufacturer of those parts (KMJ just buys them from a source) than KMJ. The alignment issues are another matter. We would recommend a call to the company. our experiences with them on tech issues was really positive.
Brings back memories of doing the suspension on my 2nd gen. Nothing scarier than working with a compressed spring lol.
You must have one of those good women.
Brian TX haha, i stand corrected - second scariest thing is working with a compressed spring
I did this once on my 70 Chevelle, and I rented a McPherson strut spring compressor and it worked fine. Its like the jaws of life and grabs the springs from the outside and squeezes the coils together and allows you to get the springs in the right position before releasing the tension. Just another way of doing it..
if you don't have weight on the car you can use a long piece of 1/2 inch all thread in the shock mount holes and pull the spring together it takes some doing but with a few washers it works pretty good
heck I bought these control arms form kmj for the first gen for 249 for this kit and there not bad at all im happy with them for sure and will buy more for my other cars.
+Chris Mansker hello i just bought a set for my 67 did you have any issues with attaching sway bar? i want to cover every thing before i rip it apart thanks
I had to buy longer sway bar links I have a quickor 1 1/4 inch bar in front. I had to send one arm back as one end was welded on misaligned but the took care of it and its all good great value check out my video there on my car
Hey guys, you can install a spring without a load in the car by looping a chain around the axle of the jack up to and around the front frame rail. ( bolt ends together with no slack ) The frame will not lift when it's attached to the jack.
I used harbor freight ratchet straps...🤣..kinda messed them up but they are like 10$ for 4 new ones so🤷
Also place a jack stand at back of the car opposite side where you are compressing the front coil spring.
Thank You very much for the visual help, one thing though. I did not see you instal a gas shock.. Did you do that later?
Yes I did
Great series , I'm restoring a 69 camaro and was wondering if you could do a video on door glass installation and adjustment.
happy new year from australia
Steve, that is in the works for a bit later on, probably February. We have some Fairlane things we want to clear out first.
Awesome video & thanks. I just got my a-arms yesterday & was wondering if I should put the old shims back the way they were before I disassemble the old arms! Thanks guys!
You can use that as a starting point if you saved the shims and marked them. This will get you to the alignment shop for them to finalize it. Even so, I'd try and trailer the car to the shop.
Merry Christmas Auto Resto Mod
Thanks
You are welcome
Should you use any anti seize on the bolting for this process?
Does that lower control arm bushing you put grease on to assemble rotate with the arm or does it remain stationary and the arm rotate around the white bushing?
Installed my a arms with new springs; and the upper a arm pulled down right to the bump stop( with a arm bolts still loose)Will this correct after wheels are on back on the ground .
Thanks
Usually in a case like this everything will settle out as long as you don't tighten the bolts up initially. Go in and bounce the front of the car up-and-down a few times. Also roll the car backward and forward and then bounce it again. Then tighten up the bolts.
Thank You!!
Any tips to tell the alignment shop. I installed a similar set from Amazon . Thanks
Doesn’t the spring get rubber isolators on the top and bottom?
The kit didn't come with any.
nice engine as well!
Do the control arms add caster?
I would have to call the manufacturer.
Hey - I know it was a long time ago that you put this up. I just did a BMR tubular upgrade on my 1967 Camaro convertible. I am rebuilding the front suspension - all stayed stock with anti sway and spindles. I can't find the torque specs ANYWHERE for the sway bar, and how far to tighten the top nut down. Obviously I can tell from a geometry standpoint that the more I tighten it down, the more extreme the angle.
Is there a limit to how far dow you tight it? I can't find a video on that anywhere - any assistance would be appreciated.
Contact Jeff, he will try and get the info for ya! jford@autorestomod.com
When we were installing the exact same control arms the red stopper on the top control arm was crushed after we installed everything. Any clue why?
Not really, I'd recommend contacting the supplier, we have only used them once so I can't speak to the problem. Sorry.
@@AutoRestoMod could it possibly be because we left the other side on the jack stand for the past 3 days and the car is at a angle. Also thank you
Didn't you guys say you'd show the installation of a 4-link rear suspension on a 1st gen camaro in January? What happened to that.
Good info
they dont mention the sway bar ? does it fit factory set up ?
+FASTCARMAN We went back with the stock bar because the owner had not decided what bars to use.
How come I dont get an email when a new episode is aired anymore? How do I change that back ??
Not sure why that happened. We have a link at the front of the show click that and resubscribe. We also have a mailing list that has an editorial from Jeff each week you can request to be included on our web site: www.autorestomod.com
Are your upper control arms backwards?
Nope.
@@AutoRestoMod
How do you know which way the upper tubular arms go on of they are not marked?
No Gullstrand mod, no .5" longer upper ball joint, no .5" longer outer tie rod, nothing to improve on the steering geometry just a stock set up. Makes it look nice but no improvement in the steering or handling improvements. You need to do one of like this it ends up like a c5 vette geometry.
Those KMJ A-Arms come from China don't they? The reason why I ask this is because on e-bay you can get both sides, upper and lower for $400. That is unheard of compared to Hoskis or Global West where you are paying almost $1200 for both upper and lower control arms.
How were they? I heard they have cheap ball joints in them, is that true? How did the car align? How did the owner say they were after some miles were put on them.
I'm going to purchase a set but I am not sure about suspension parts from my 68 Camaro made in China.
Thank you for your opinion
Christopher T Honestly Chris, we haven't had a chance to get with the owner to find out about his experiences aligning the front end. We're also not sure what the initial source for the arms are as they were provided to us by the owner.
They are NOT, LIGHTENING HOLES!!! The holes permit the gases that are produced from heavy friction between the pad and the rotor face, to escape into the vent 'vanes' in the middle.
Therefore they (the holes) reduce brake FADE. THAT happens when the gas has no where to go and actually separates the two surfaces. (the harder you press on the peddle, you still don't stop!) And the overheating of the two surfaces, warps the rotor and breaks down the pad material..
Ok, no need to shout. So they do the same thing as the veins. Got it. With your passion you should work for a brake company...though I don't recommend shouting at the company meetings...
Hey they had in trouble with these control arms?
By they, we assume you mean the owner. No, he hasn't reported any.
Should be 3rd gen nova, not 2nd
they dont align well i put that same control arm set up on my nova could not adjust chamber not enough vaster and ball joint boots fell apart after 2 weeks and bump stops on lower control arm dry rotted and fell off buy global west spend the money once dont cheap out. im paying the price now
Sorry to hear about the trouble! We've seen a general deterioration in the quality of boots on suspension pieces in the last few years. So that and the urethane problems fall more to the manufacturer of those parts (KMJ just buys them from a source) than KMJ. The alignment issues are another matter. We would recommend a call to the company. our experiences with them on tech issues was really positive.
DUMB & DANGEROUS! If going to do something that stupid you might consider a short length of heavy chain through the spring and around the frame! WTF?
Come on down and show us how! We'll be upgrading the '70 Camaro Soon!
It is done the way they did it every day no problem.