Using my tracksaw cutting station
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- Several people have asked how I use my custom made tracksaw cutting station and, as I was about to cut the bottoms for some drawers, I have captured the process on video.
My cuts are so close to perfectly square that it would be hard to beat the accuracy even with a big £25K panel saw. The cutting station was created using the Parf Guide System.
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![Tablesaw or Tracksaw for Narrow Rips [video 477]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wYy2VUhBxYI/mqdefault.jpg)
The CNC table into the track saw station is genius 👍
Many thanks. I now have a pair pf trestles for the cutting station as the CNC is in a new and much smaller cabinet. Cheers. Peter
You make it look so easy..
And your voice makes it sound even easier.
Hi Joe, Thank you so much - cheers. Peter
Cool cnc station! Thx for content. Is awesome!
Thanks for watching!
Brilliant
I wish I had the room for all the workbenches and stations you appear to have! Just made the UJK park dog bench today which was easy having watched your other video. Nice to listen to a Brit' and measurements in mm, thanks
Thank you so much. Peter
*SuperParfDogs* to the rescue !!! Thank you, Peter. That was a good one.
Thank you too! Peter
This video is presented so nicely, a bit like if your favorite uncle would teach you woodworking.
Hi Aleksander, I am sure that is a compliment ! Uncle Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Well, I'm over 50 now, but I still cherish an advice here and there. I may think I saw it all, but it's never true, (like it turns out). So, a bit of a benevolent push to further explore in this or that direction is always welcome. And thank you for doing it in a nice manner.
Peter, your explanations are excellent. I really enjoy all your videos and reviews. Thank you. Piet Uys. Cape Town.
Hi Piet, Thank you so much. Peter
Peter, you're a genius with Woods, for me the best ever , perfect vídeo and perfect professional .Very good .
Hi Marcos, You are very kind and I do not deserve such comment. Cheers. Peter
New Brit Workshop you are an inspiration in my carpentry i learn a lot with you i Just a have to thank for sharing thank you Peter .you is a great professional, a hug.
I am festool-holic trying to buy the best in a FESTOOL and I'm very fanciful with your videos
Thank you for your good job of showing off an amazing company.My name is michalis
Hi Michalis, Good luck. Peter
Hello Peter. I cut a lot of 16mm and 22mm MDF with a Festool TS 55. I currently use a sheet of 22mm MDF on a pair of horses. Then I place a couple of sheets of 25mm polystyrene on top of the 22mm MDF. Lastly I place the sheet I want to cut on top of the polystyrene. I use a GRS 16 on the Festool guide to make nice square cuts. If I need to cut a small piece of wood. For example 100mm x 50mm x16mm I push the small piece of wood up against a larger piece the same thickness and tape them together using masking tape. The larger piece provides stable mounting for the guide and the tape ensures the little piece doesn’t move. It’s almost like having an upside down Kapex😊. I can send you photos if you would like. Thank you for all your videos. I have recently purchased a Festool Carvex 420 and am keen to get cracking with it. Please feel free to check out the unusual work I do on my Facebook page AV Technique. Best regards Rob.
Hi Rob, You need to start a RUclips channel so that people can see your work. Many thanks for the tips and they could form the basis for your first RUclips video. Good luck. Peter
Another Peter Parfitt Gem. Thank you kind Sir!
Hi Pat, Many thanks. Peter
so clever. my arthritis reminds me of my limitations regularly.
Very well presented..thanks
Many thanks. Peter
Another excellent video Peter!
Cheers
Ron
Great to see you again. Have a very Merry Christmas!
Hi Gary, Many thanks and I wish you and your family a happy and peaceful Christmas. Peter
It might be worth mentioning that all of this depends on the layout of the dog holes being perfectly straight and square. It would be an interesting topic for a video how to ensure that using commonly available tools.
The Parf Guide System will produce a near perfect layout of 20 mm holes. I have already demonstrated the accuracy in this video: ruclips.net/video/EbsRAIS5CoU/видео.html The original pieces of mdf cut in this video are in a sealed bag and available for inspection. Cheers. Peter
Imagine not doing your woodworking in a collared shirt. Couldn't be me.
Brilliant!
I'm excited. So well explained. lovely to watch. Thanks.
Bonjour Peter Bravo pour vos vidéo et vos super travaux. Pensez vous faire un tuto pour le meuble sous la cnc avec plan si oui quand svp merci
Hi Peter Bravo for your videos and your great works. Do you make a tutorial for the furniture under the cnc with plan if yes when please thank you
Bonjour Deco, (I will try this without using a translater !!!!) Oui, le video est ici : ruclips.net/video/sfv-Pr2c_j4/видео.html I dare not risk any more of my French, please forgive me. You might also want to look at my video of the Gas Struts : ruclips.net/video/iWn86jNVacM/видео.html The plans for the cabinet are free of charge but I need an email address in order to send them to you. Peter
Very informative video Peter so many thanks. The Parfdogs are on my shopping list from Axminster. Coincidentally, I was using my T55 today to cut some seriously hard wych elm and the machine did it superbly leaving a smooth finish.
Hi Alan, My TS55 was amongst my first Festool purchase 6 years ago and all from Axminster. I regularly cut hard wood (mostly oak, maple and walnut) and I never have any problems at all. Cheers. Peter
Great video Peter, my Festool tracksaw and parf dogs have to be the best tool purchase I've ever made!
Seasons greeting to you and your family, hope 2018 brings all you wish for.
cheers
tony
Hi Tony, I agree 100%. Peter
congratulations sir PETER in the way you explain it is understandable I am also an amateur master with FESTOOL
I guess that you might be in Greece? Many thanks. Peter
As usual..great job.👍
Hi Marwan, You are very kind, many thanks. Peter
my parf guide arrived today, happy xmas to me ;0)
Remember to drill the 3 mm holes all the way through and when using the 3 mm pins you only need to push them in about 6 mm. Enjoy yourself and have a very happy and peaceful Christmas. Peter
I love your vids Peter top stuff!
Hi Christopher, Brilliant, thank you. Peter
Peter great video and work ,always genuine work and NOT claimed and copied work. In your video it caught my eyes your CNC M/C table with drop down top, have you an videos on it or info re the drop down mechanism, I wish to make an identical unit.
Kind regards from OZ
Jack Marashlian
Hi Jack, Here is the link to the cabinet build: ruclips.net/video/iWn86jNVacM/видео.html and here is the installation of the gas struts: ruclips.net/video/iWn86jNVacM/видео.html Cheers. Peter
I deleted your other post to remove the email address from public view. The plans are on the way. Peter
There are pieces of hardware designed for installing heavy kitchen appliances that similarly drop back and down into a lower kitchen cabinet. The trick will be to do your homework to ensure that the hardware's capacity meets your aggregated lifting need. Suggested manufacturer: Haefele.
I'd like a bit more detail on the blocks underneath the cutting table top. I have similar issues and it colud possibly help me. Do the blocks just stop the worktop slippling, or do they attach to something?
Chris
Hi Chris, My tracksaw cutting station is made from a piece of good quality 18 mm MDF. It is supported on a pair of trestles which have a frame on top made from 60 mm x 40 mm soft wood (which is not warped in any way). The frame consists of a piece across the top of each trestle and these are fixed to the trestle tops with a pair of screws. These are just short of the width (fore and aft) of the MDF. Then across these pieces are 4 cross pieces which are evenly spaced across the two trestle pieces and screwed in place. Theses are just short of the length (left to right) of my MDF top.The MDF is not screwed or fixed in any way to the frame below because sometimes one needs to slide the MDF top slightly so that a particular 20 mm hole does not have any part of the frame beneath it. I hope that this helps. Peter
Hi Peter. I'm using the Mark 2 guide system with my track saw. The one thing I need is how to set up for a repeatable cut like you would get with the fence on a table saw. Only way you can do this on the parf guide system is to measure every time and slide the workpiece to the line. Not highly repeatable. An idea solution would be some kind of adjustable fence attached to the grid of holes. Thoughts?
Hi Geoff, This was discussed recently and a prototype is being made for testing. It looks very good. Cheers. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop can't wait. I'll be first to place an order
Any update to this repeatable fence-like solution for the guide rail system?
Thanks Peter nice video buddy
Hi Ken, How do you do it? I try and sneak a video past you but you are always the first to watch it. I am soon going to have to charge you rent for that camp bed in my shed ! Cheers - Have a happy Christmas. Peter
A camp bed in the workshop sounds good to me. lol
First time seeing this video. Watching the CNC table fold down is like porn for woodworkers.
Knowing this is a much older video and you've since replace the top, this may be a moot point. But, have you considered using a cable system to hoist the top out of the way? Even as a manual process, it should be relatively easy to decide and considerable less effort. Plus you'll regain the wall/ floor space.
I like to keep things reasonably simple and certainly easy to operate and maintain and I fear that a pulley system would not work well enough for me. Cheers. Peter
Amazing! Do you have plans for your assembly/cnc/cutting table? Simply amazing!
Hi Danniel, In order to get plans or to contact me via email I need your email address. RUclips no longer has a private messaging service and so in order to get in touch you need to place a comment on this or any other video with your email address. The RUclips software should identify and send it to the spam folder for The New Brit Workshop. Nobody will be able to see your email address except you and me. I will then delete your comment so that it does not end up in the public domain and I will then send the plans. Were we to do this the other way around then my comment, with my email address, would appear for all the world to see. Peter
Peter, I thoroughly enjoy your videos and have learnt a lot from them over a number of years - thank you. Now fully retired and spending a lot more time in my workshop, I am about to make a new MFT style top using the Parf Guide system as the original one is now rather worn, and I recall seeing an idea somewhere of including a sacrificial strip along the main cross-cut line and would appreciate your thoughts on this. Is it something you have considered doing?
Hi Nick, With all due respect to those that have chosen to do this...It is not something that I would do. The top is made of one of the cheapest woodworking materials and the PGS makes a replacement easy. My tracksaw cutting station is cut all over yet still works perfectly. Cheers. Peter
@Nick White, I think Peter@@NewBritWorkshop is right forgoing sacrificial strips for the MFT system (so long as you're using the Parf Guide System to make your own tops), but the one exception might be when building a more complicated system like the Ron Paulk Smart Bench (PSB) where replacing the top would be a much more involved process. Peter please correct me if I am wrong, but from what I can surmise the PSB is a good alternative to a MFT when trying to maximize the efficiency and storage of equipment in a mobile shop or in a situation where you have limited space, so in those situations sacrificial strips sound like the way to go. Otherwise, building your own to replace every so often is likely more efficient. The only exception I can think of is if the sacrificial strips were somehow compromising accuracy, but being new to woodworking, I can't speak to that myself.
Brilliant. I must go look into the UJK Parf Superdog. I do have a question: Is there a way to do repeate cuts using "story stick" method as a template, rather than relying on measurement? Thanks.
Yes, and I should have shown this. For the first cut measure and position the stock in relation to the guide rail. Before doing the cut clamp a odd end of wood against the end of the measured piece to make a stop for the next cut. Cheers. Peter
have you ever thought about selling plans to your benches ??? the cnc one I would defo be interested in :)
Hi Ben, I give away all of my plans free of charge and only need an email address to get them to you. Peter
Peter how do you use dogs to make a 30 or 45 or 60 degree angle cut?
Great videos btw
The guide rail and tracksaw use the same pair of dogs that are across the cutting station. The fence or individual smaller dogs are put in a line of holes that are either at 45 degrees or 30 degrees to the line of the tracksaw. A normal hole layout provides for 45 degree cuts but a few extra holes are needed for 30 degrees (or 60 degrees). This may help:
ruclips.net/video/xJ_dhbIdGqE/видео.html
Peter
I'm new to woodworking and have been enjoying your videos at the recommendation of Ron Paulk, and I have a question about your technique. I've been doing research in anticipation of buying a track saw and TSO parallel guides (and the Parf Guide System) to make my cuts as reproducibly accurate as possible by avoiding errors introduced by measuring every time I cut. By stacking pieces to be cut it seems you are both guaranteeing they are the same size AND saving time. However, since you can only cut 3-5 pieces at a time (out of the ten you needed for this project), do you find stacking pieces is accurate enough because you are still measuring less than you would if you cut these ten pieces without stacking or with the use of parallel guides? In other words, each measurement risks the introduction of introducing error, so by stacking pieces and measuring less-without the use of parallel guides to avoid all measuring (beyond setting parallel guides up)-do you feel you are lowering the statistical probability of introducing error enough for it to be worthwhile in order to save time and/or money? I'm sorry I haven't worded my questions better, but I am curious if you think using the parallel guides are ever worth it. For example, if you were cutting 18mm boards and couldn't stack as many, would it then be more appropriate to use parallel guides since you would be measuring more?
The more times you use a tape measure the more likely the overall statistical accuracy will improve but that is a mathematical viewpoint which has little bearing on woodwork. Cutting 3 or 4 pieces at once may produce 3 or 4 perfectly identical pieces but any measuring error is replicated across the set. Frankly I would not worry about any of this and do things in a way that suits your time - I cut multiple sheets to save time. Good luck. Peter
Peter, just discovered your channel :-) Great and easy to understand, I'm just picking up woodwork after a gap of 35 years! The last piece I made was a teak coffee table (I still have) that I made when I was 15! Question: How does you dust collection automatically turn on?
I have the Festool CT26 extractor and it has been in service for over 11 years. It has a socket on the front into which you can plug almost any of the Festool range of tools (and any other makes up to a certain wattage). I have a 4 way power adapter permanently plugged into the CT26 and into that I have my Kapex mitre saw, my router table and small table saw and also a "plug-it" cable which fits into my routers or track saw. It is a great setup. The CT26 is the unsung hero of my workshop as it is really efficient and has never let me down. Oh, it also has Bluetooth so I can turn it on and off remotely which is very useful when doing a workshop cleanup. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop nice thanks for the info
I'm neither old, nor weak. But I have to tap the super dogs out from underneath, I cannot budge them otherwise
Some material and some changes in humidity can cause holes to be tight. Axminster have now created a special reamer to sort this out:
www.axminstertools.com/ujk-parf-system-reamer-for-20mm-holes-107586
Peter
I have to admit, as much as I'm loving (and acquiring) many of the Parf system tools, I'm having trouble seeing the benefit of the rail clips. If they held the rail on the dogs while you flipped the rail up and moved in a new workpiece, that would make sense. As it is, they don't seem to do anything that "butting the rail up to the dogs" does. Please elaborate if I'm missing something?
Hi Tighe, When the rail is flat it is held really well against the tall dogs. In order to move the rail it is best to rotate it to a vertical position. I agree that when it is free to move that it is no longer held tightly against the tall dogs - if it were then it would be difficult to move. Peter
I just sold my table saw. I have a very small area in my garage to work and a table saw just doesn't fit. The thing that I still don't get is the accurate measurement part of equation...I definitely think the way to go is to gang cut pieces all at the same time when possible, as you've done in this video. I have an inexpensive track saw. The issue I keep running into is getting the cut lined up to the pencil line. I guess I might need to get some new zero clearance strips for my track so get closer to the actual cut. Do you have any ideas on this? I like the idea of parallel guides, but I'm curious how to handle narrow rip cuts as well.
Hi Andy, I have Festool tracks and they sell replacement zero clearance splinter guard stick on tape - 495209 Splinter guard FS. If that is too thick you could use short lengths of Fastcap tape - woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/fastcap-zero-clearance-tape/
Doing narrow strips from a large piece of material is easy but cutting narrow strips from narrow stock is not. This is the only situation where I would use a cheap and cheerful table saw or even a bandsaw and then, if you have one, put it through the thicknesser. Peter
Hi Peter. Why didn't you use parf dogs to align the boards for your first two cuts, rather than aligning them with a batten and clamping them to the table?
Hi David, That is a brilliant idea and I really wish that I had done just that. Many thanks. Peter
Hi Peter
I have found that a bit of masking tape over the window on the TS 55 cuts down on the dust a bit more. Have you tried this?
WKR
Mike
No but there is a window cover on the TS55R I believe. Peter
Hi Peter.
I already have your Parf dogs and am saving for the guide system, even though I do have an MFT. Love your work, thanks.
Was there a reason why you calculated your cut to accommodate for the curf, using the offcut instead of moving the track to the left (other end) and making the cut in the usual way?
Hi Howard, It can be done either way and in this case, after trimming the ends, it was easier to just slide things to the right - hence adding the extra for the saw blade. Peter
Iv got some administer tool and someone's put a number on it it's so annoying I know what you mean
What is the advantage of doing this with a track saw, over using a table saw?
Hi Mark, I can take my slab of MDF, my track, tracksaw and dogs anywhere I want in the car or van. The accuracy is as good as a £25k panel saw. I do have a small table saw which I use for longer, thinner stock breakdown and also for rebate work. I sold my big, heavy table saw as it took up all the space in that part of the workshop that I now have then CNC/tracksaw cutting station, my planer, bobbin sander and two extractors. Peter
New Brit Workshop
That makes sense. Thanks for your reply.
Yes, the table saw is a commercial production tool that unfortunately became the darling of the American home craftsman (i.e., hobbyist), and this love affair spread to other places where the USA had influence.
As Peter noted, that darling takes up a remarkable amount of functional space in a workshop -- pretty much a 8' x 20' or more clear patch of floor space is necessary if one is going to deal with sheet goods, and that is generally in the center of the shop! In my mind, the workbench is the single most important tool after the brain and the pencil, so giving up the most important seat to a 2nd level, single function player is a serious sacrifice. The single most expensive and hard to come by item in all of our workshops is the workshop space itself, so I am not too interested in tools that require heaps of space.
Let there be no mistake, the TS is a time-consuming tool to set up, but once it's adjusted, then it is very efficient...at doing just the one thing it is presently configured to do. If one has the space, then a TS makes more sense, but I still would prefer a dedicated finishing room or better wood storage or sound deadened closet for my compressor and dust collector before I would opt for such a big stationary tool as a TS. As far as stationary tools go, a big, high clearance band saw is a much better choice IMO.
For what it's worth, yes I used and sold my cabinet saw, I have a quality band saw, a drill press, a track saw (gawd I love it), a jointer, and 2 radial arm saws (better choice than a TS) all in the space previously occupied by my table saw. I put off buying a track saw for about 15 years and I now regret that poor choice, big time.
A TS also is very challenging in the dust control department, whereas the Makita and Festool track saws are remarkably dust-free. This is a big deal for productivity and health. I've used my track saw directly in the house, right at the remodel project location (shop vac attached of course), which is wildly more efficient, and for stock up to 2" thick, it is a brilliant jointer.
@@SuperBardley If the table saw is a one trick pony then what other standard tool/ machine in a woodshop isn't? For that purpose a track saw only does one thing and doesn't have the potential to do the other things that a table saw can do very easily.....I mean unless you can mount a stack dado head on that thing. Your opining that a TS needs an 8X20 area to handle sheet goods is grossly misleading. I have a standard sized cabinet saw in a 20X20 area, not a large space especially when you factor in the rest of my tools and machines, I can handle sheet good just fine and as a cabinet maker do so on a fairly regular basis. Table saws, track saws, band saws.....they all have their advantages and disadvantages. Personally I would never go without a good table saw but the track saw does ad some level of convenience for certain things.
One added bonus is the tracks saw is much safer than a table saw. When I use my track saw, I’m only concerned about not running over my cord. With my table saw, I have to worry about not losing my fingers and the ever present danger of a kickback.
Why not use the parf dogs to flush up the initial cuts?
Hi Tony, If you just want to cut one edge clean and there is no reason for it (at that early stage) to be square to any other edge then there is no need. Peter
What prevented the guiderail from moving? I find it needs to be clamped down.
Hi James, It has anti slip rubbery stuff underneath and it is then rock solid. If yours slips then you can replace it. Peter
Hi Peter could you have used dogs to line up the boards instead of the straight edge piece of wood?
Yes, and I will next time - you are the second person to point this out. Cheers. Peter
When you use the saw in the 45 degree angle does it not cut into the rubber splinter guard on the rail.
Hi Gavin, The blade will cut the sacrificial splinter guard in the same place at whatever angle is set. Over time the splinter guard does wear a bit and it can be easily replaced. Peter
Nice work. I have that saw and the one annoying thing is the depth indication doesn't take into account the thickness of the rail. Here is a saw that was specifically designed to be used with a track and is really the wrong tool for the job to be used as a regular circular saw. Yet Festool designed it so some metal gymnastics needs to be done every time the depth is set. That is just plain bad design.
Hi Pete, The saw can be used with or without the rail so one way would always be wrong whichever scale Festool put on. All you have to do is add 7 mm to the thickness of your wood or place the saw on the rail with the rail at the edge of the wood and lower blade w=until it touches the bench top and set the depth that way. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Hey Peter, thanks for the reply. Yes as I implied in my comment, the saw can be used without the track, however it is not DESIGNED with that in mind. It was designed to be a track saw, and that is it's #1 purpose. A standard circular saw would be infinitely better suited to be used as a ... circular saw. Unremarkably I guess. Therefore I feel it is a design flaw to have something specifically designed for one use, yet "calibrated" for quite another (secondary) use.
Obviously that's simply my opinion. The engineers at Festool are not stupid people in my experience, and it would seem their opinion is different. Who knows what their thinking was; perhaps it's better to under-cut than cut too deep. However to me it would be like buying a car with the speedo reading incorrectly ... in case the owner wanted to buy larger aftermarket wheels ;) There would be plenty of elegant solutions available (dual scale, different zeroing option, etc etc) but my opinion is unmoved in that this is currently a poor design when used for the purpose it was undoubtably purchased for..
Thanks for the heads-up on the track thickness. I don't use the saw often enough to remember the figure. Indeed it's rarely enough to sometimes forget the depth scale is wrong. I think I'll now print a sticker next to the scale to remind me to add 7 mm.
Pete F Hi Pete F
The latest version of the TS55 has a notch on the depth marker which allows for the depth of the track so you can set the cutting depth for either on or off track very easily. Peter's saw must be an older one which didn't have this feature.
m Thanks, it seems I wasn’t the first to have this gripe then. My version of the saw must be the same as Peter’s. I found the flaw very annoying
Well done sir. I am curious, how many super dogs do you have?
I now have 7 but one was taken when I did a demo somewhere. It was the very first one ever made and had "00001" engraved on it and was presented to me by the CEO of Axminster. Cheers. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Thank you for your reply. I am extremely curious sorry to know you don’t have your prized super dog anymore. I was actually tickled to know that you had received such a special gift. A gift that you certainly deserved.
@DW I own the "Parf" registered brand and collaborated initially with Lee Valley who produce the original Parf Dogs which I designed a long time ago. Since then I have teamed up with Axminster who manufacture and market the remaining Parf products under the UJK label. I must say that both Lee Valley and Axminster are lovely companies to work with. Cheers. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Yes, I know and I have both. I have shopped at Lee Valley for 40 yrs. 🇨🇦 I appreciate your teachings.
02:40 Why is 6.2 mm more precise then 1/4 inch...?
Hi Keith, Not sure what you mean but 1/4" is 6.35 mm. Peter
Peter, I have noticed you get zero chip out on your cuts.
What are the boards you are using? Are the MDF core or particle board? What brand?
Hi Shad, I use Medite Moisture Resistant MDF for my various custom tops. It has a hard outer lsayer and is very stable. Peter
Why not use parf dogs to line up ply?
Hi Robert, Yes you can but I do try and show as many ways of doing things as I can. Cheers. Peter
Hi Peter, you’ve inspired me to get a Festool track saw which I now love having made the straightest, cleanest long cuts I’ve ever done. I need to decide now between a Festool MFT/3 and making square cuts with the Festool angle stop/protractor, or using parf dogs with a custom workbench (or MFT/3). Do you have any advice on that decision?
Hi Tom, The MFT3 is a great idea and I use mine still. However, Festool make no claims about the accuracy of the 20 mm hole layout and, if you read the posts on the Festool Owners' Group (FOG), many people have problems keeping the MFT3 square. I would build my own custom cutting station using the Parf Guide System. It is seriously accurate, costs a lot less and you can have it on top of a home made mobile cabinet if you wish. Peter
Hi Peter ! Do you prefer to use the cutting track than your table saw for sheet work
Hi Andy, I cut out all of my sheet goods on my track saw cutting station. I use the table saw only for thin or narrow stock. Peter
You did not explain when cutting the sets of 5 how the part dogs for the rail happened to be exactly in the right place for the required cutting measurement (of 438mm). Or did I miss something?
Hi Norman, The Parf Super Dogs were there to provide a rear register for the placement of the work pieces. I marked the 438 mm on the top piece with my pencil. I then moved the assembled pieces , pressed against the Parf Super Dogs, until the pencil mark was lined up with the sacrificial splinter guard of the Festool track. Peter
New Brit Workshop OK got it 👍Thank you.
0001 😮
Hi Petter, I'm just starting out and have learnt a lot form your videos. Thank you for making them. I'm about to make my first tack saw cutting station. I have the PGS, dogs and am getting a TS55 from Santa if he can get it down the chimney! I'm gong to make the trestles first and build my bench and cabinets from there. What would be a good size for the cutting station? The portable one you made on a previous video looks a bit small for my needs but the one in this video looks more like it. From comparing it with the track it looks about 1220mm wide and it looks to be 17 holes long (96mm x17 = 1632mm) plus a bit for the edge - (say 66mm) about 1698mm long. Is this about right?
Hi Jim, You are right that I have 17 holes across but there are only 16 x 96 mm gaps in between !! My cutting station is 1620 mm x 1020 mm or 17 holes by 11. It is slightly high for a cutting station at 850 mm but this does depend on the height of the user. It has to be comfortable to stretch across the whole (1020 mm) depth when cutting wider pieces. I can cut a whole (1220 mm x 2240 mm) sheet without risk but can only use the dogs for pieces that fit on the top. When using the PGS please remember that the 3 mm holes should go all the way through as they act as a pilot for the special 20 mm cutter. Also, when using the 3 mm pins there is no need to push them into the MDF top more than about 6 mm when using the Parf Sticks or 20 mm Drill Guide. I used to use trestles to support my top and have some very simple drawings, free of charge, if you wish - I would need an email address in order to send them to you. Good luck and remember that the many months or even years of service that your tracksaw cutting station will give deserves your care and attention for the one or two hours that you will be using the PGS to create it. Peter
That's great. Thanks for the measurements. If you get a some time to send the trestle drawings my email is jimhamilton.mobi@gmail.com. You've done a lot of videos on the PGS so I'm going to go over them all again before I start drilling. A few things I'm unsure of are: Medite v's normal mdf, 12mm or 18mm thickness of mdf and hard wax oil before or after drilling. What would you suggest? Happy Christmas by the way.
Hi Jim, The plans are on the way. You need 18 mm Medite MR (Moisture Resistant). Certainly use some wax or oil before you start the drilling. Good luck. You will now have my email address if you need any more help. Happy Christmas. Peter
This is some real necro, but I don't understand why you didn't just use dogs to make sure your sheets were flush? Or even a benchdog square? Doing it with a piece of wood and your fingers works, but why when you've got those nice MFT holes?
Hi Jason, It was the quickest way and very accurate. No need to over engineer a simple task like this. Peter
I bet I could get that 0001 serial numbered bench dog off of him for 1/4 zillion!!
What metric tape measure do you recommend?
I have bought many in my time and many are not accurate enough. It is best to go into a store with a 1 m steel rule that you know is accurate. Then select the tape rule that you like and check it. If it is not spot on then take another until you find the best. OR you can get one of the Axminster Precision ones which should be absolutely spot on - that is what I have been using for at least the last 5 years. I only use my old Stanley ones for rough work. Peter
What is the size of the work area?
Mine is about 840 mm by 1800 mm but previous ones have been different and the next will be too. Peter
I'm having a real hard time figuring out how to make repeatable narrow rip cuts on my MFT, that are narrower than the guide rail.... Mainly for the likes of drawer parts. How do you do it Peter? Do you have any videos on it? I was looking at the Seneca system but it's expensive...
Hi Jaime, If the stock is too narrow for the guide rail I use my small (CMS-TS) table saw. If you do not have a table saw then you could use some double sided tape to attach the narrow piece to a larger piece which will fit safely under the guide rail. You could also try wide masking tape over the top. However, whatever method you use you have to make sure that when using the tracksaw that the stock will not accidentally move or come flying away. If you are unsure then do not try anything that you cannot guarantee to be safe. Peter
Try this... ruclips.net/video/dMMRQ2D07ak/видео.html
Why didn't you use the festool parallel guides to keep the same width?
First, I do not have any but more importantly that would not be as accurate over the length being cut. Peter
Some users get frustrated with the tedious backlash settings.
I'm still hazy on how you use this system to get parallel cuts. How to make 90-degree cross-cuts is clear, but is there a way to get parallel cuts using this system? My results using a track saw, pencil, and measuring tape are inconsistent.
Once you have squared off the end of a board you can cut pieces parallel to that cut edge. In order to cut a long parallel length where it is not possible to lay it out on a tracksaw cutting station then you have to measure very carefully. Peter
Hi Peter. Thanks for your reply. For some reason, I can't envision how to cut pieces parallel to the squared off end of a board as you describe. Do you use the parf dogs in some way? Or are there other devices? Not wanting to use the parallel guides are why I'm interested in the table/cutting station with dog holes.
So, for instance, say I wanted to cut some rails and stiles, which is usually done on a table saw. How might I get parallel repeatable cuts using the cutting station?
It is quite tricky to make long parallel cuts from narrow stock - that is why I use either my small table saw (Festool CMS-TS) or my bandsaw. One can fiddle around with narrow stock by having arrangements for holding it safely in place so that you can use a guide rails and a tracksaw. Some people use double sided tape to hold the wood down on the bench top or to join several pieces to make the group as wide as the guide rail. Others fix cross pieces at both ends to hold the piece being cut a few inches away from a piece of the same thickness thus making something that fits nicely under the guide rail. Peter
Thanks, Peter! That confirms what I suspected.
i.e., a table saw is the best way to do them.
I think a table saw would have been more efficient.
Hi Jack, I can throw my kit in the back of a normal saloon car and do work away from base. The cost of a good quality track saw and a couple of rails is way below that of a panel saw and so cutting sheet goods does not need a huge investment. I do have a small table saw for cutting thin strips and for rebate work but everything else is done on my track saw cutting station to an accuracy of 0.0001 radians. Peter
Hi peter, could I pm you with an idea I had regarding your cutting station and an alternative way around the saw fouling on the part dogs. If so how would I contact you?
Thanks Rick
Hi Rick, You can send me a Private Message by going to ruclips.net/user/StoneMessage Then click on "About" followed by "Send Message". This works best from a PC as some mobiles and tablets are unable to display all the tabs. Peter
A fantastically informative video, sir! I learned a lot, and that is good - as I just ordered a track saw. You have got yourself a new subscriber.
If you have the inclination, stop by my tiny channel and show some support. Cheers.
Many thanks and good luck with your own channel. Peter
I don't understand this video, it looks like you are cutting/marring your bench top every time you make a cut, not good!
Hi Harry, The bench top is sacrificial and doing it this way stops break-out from under the saw cut. The bench top is MDF and I replace it whenever I feel it necessary. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop I see other techniques used where you don't have to sacrifice your top that you have just spent a lot of time and money making!