Attention! This video contains mistakes: 6:02 - the tightening torque is 45 Nm, not 75 Nm. 7:49 - the tightening torque is 77 Nm, not 95 Nm. 7:53 - the tightening torque is 55 Nm, not 90 Nm. 9:06 - the tightening torque is 44 Nm, not 50 Nm. We're sorry for the inconvenience 🙇♂
Yes, it is. We cannot show all the nuances and problems when replacing, this is all individual and it is not always possible to solve them at home. To avoid this, we always recommend that replacements be made at specialized services.
Tip. I found it very difficult to get the lower wishbone slot to line up with the shock absorber at 6:47. It is much easier to connect the two if the upper wishbone is not connected to the hanger at that stage.
Mine was creaking, replaced both sides with ridex parts now the left is creaking again, goibt to remove and see if i can separate the two ushes and grease them
Have a look at other videos on our channel: 🔸 ALFA ROMEO 159 car repair tutorial - ruclips.net/p/PLWep5LzT0sxldURmVSOWcmRWqr8lp6kxM 🔸 How to replace rear brake pads / rear brake pad set on ALFA ROMEO 159 1 (939) - ruclips.net/video/QrtXux768hs/видео.html 🔸 How to replace rear shock absorber on ALFA ROMEO 159 1 (939) - ruclips.net/video/YTmOVPHUXMQ/видео.html 🔸 How to replace rear brake discs / rear brake rotors on ALFA ROMEO 159 1 (939) - ruclips.net/video/taZ7hyeRLt4/видео.html 🔸 How to replace rear springs / rear coil springs on ALFA ROMEO 159 1 (939) - ruclips.net/video/lSRhGMxxb68/видео.html
Hi there - and thanks for the video; it is realy helpful. One comment - you do, but you do not explain why you do it. You are lifting the whole suspension a bit before you tighten the bolts both inn upper and lower control arms. The reason for this to mention is important. You should allways tighten bolts in both front and rear when the car is loaded. If not - the bushes will have a "pre-stress" before the car is loaded with its normal weight. By lifting as you do - you make an artificial weight which is the right way to do it. Thumbs up!
Our videos are for guidance only. All routine replacements and values can be found directly in the technical documentation for your car or use the help of the auto maintenance service. AUTODOC
Yes, have just done that, you can take the bolts out in between the coils of the spring. its 30min job, no alignment needed. The spring will not leave space for a torquewrench, though.
Mistake in this video costed me 70€. Now I have stripped nut due to overtightening. "75 nm is way too tight for the ball joint nut. Official spec says 41 to 50 nm."
Hi! Unfortunately, it is not possible to specify the tightening torque, this information can be found in the technical documentation for the repair of your car.
Same issue on both arms!!! This video is for a 159 and the video specifies 75nm. Thanks. Video itself was usefull but ill never trust the given torque specs from their videos again…
Hi. I did srew 75 nm ball joint to the rest of suspension and is not true. Because I broke bolt. And now I have to order next wishbone. So I lost about £89. 00.
Bullshit the arm can come out without taking the whole strut out, either compress the spring slightly to get the upper bolts out or just take the bolt out of the bottom fork and let it down a little.
Thank you for your question! Usually, when control arm is worn, the first thing that fails is the ball joint causing a knock while driving, however you can find out about it earlier if you have a professinal car workshop examine your suspension. Best Regards, Autodoc Team
You're right, we made a mistake in the credits. Unfortunately, we can't change the credits, but we will add information to the description. Thank you for your attention!
Attention! This video contains mistakes:
6:02 - the tightening torque is 45 Nm, not 75 Nm.
7:49 - the tightening torque is 77 Nm, not 95 Nm.
7:53 - the tightening torque is 55 Nm, not 90 Nm.
9:06 - the tightening torque is 44 Nm, not 50 Nm.
We're sorry for the inconvenience 🙇♂
Super helpful. To the point. Clear, professionally edited video and no faff which makes such a pleasant change.
Thanks for your positive comment! Stay with us!
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
AUTODOC
I loved the way the shock absorber easily separated from the wishbone yoke, never seen one come apart so easily.
Yes, it is. We cannot show all the nuances and problems when replacing, this is all individual and it is not always possible to solve them at home. To avoid this, we always recommend that replacements be made at specialized services.
Mine was a slippery one too, fortunately
Tip. I found it very difficult to get the lower wishbone slot to line up with the shock absorber at 6:47. It is much easier to connect the two if the upper wishbone is not connected to the hanger at that stage.
We are sure that your comment will be useful for many of our viewers.
Mine was creaking, replaced both sides with ridex parts now the left is creaking again, goibt to remove and see if i can separate the two ushes and grease them
Have a look at other videos on our channel:
🔸 ALFA ROMEO 159 car repair tutorial - ruclips.net/p/PLWep5LzT0sxldURmVSOWcmRWqr8lp6kxM
🔸 How to replace rear brake pads / rear brake pad set on ALFA ROMEO 159 1 (939) -
ruclips.net/video/QrtXux768hs/видео.html
🔸 How to replace rear shock absorber on ALFA ROMEO 159 1 (939) -
ruclips.net/video/YTmOVPHUXMQ/видео.html
🔸 How to replace rear brake discs / rear brake rotors on ALFA ROMEO 159 1 (939) -
ruclips.net/video/taZ7hyeRLt4/видео.html
🔸 How to replace rear springs / rear coil springs on ALFA ROMEO 159 1 (939) - ruclips.net/video/lSRhGMxxb68/видео.html
Nice video 👍
Hi I just want to ask, one of the bush is freely to move is it ? I mean the inner cylinder for one of the bush
The arm bushes should not spin or move since this is the first sign that the bushing is out of order.
@@autodocuk thanks for your reply !
Good 👍👍👍
Hi there - and thanks for the video; it is realy helpful. One comment - you do, but you do not explain why you do it. You are lifting the whole suspension a bit before you tighten the bolts both inn upper and lower control arms. The reason for this to mention is important. You should allways tighten bolts in both front and rear when the car is loaded. If not - the bushes will have a "pre-stress" before the car is loaded with its normal weight. By lifting as you do - you make an artificial weight which is the right way to do it. Thumbs up!
You are absolutely right. All suspension components should be tightened in the standard position (under load). Thank you for your comment.
Why remove the shock absorber? Can be done without removal!
Our videos are for guidance only. All routine replacements and values can be found directly in the technical documentation for your car or use the help of the auto maintenance service.
AUTODOC
Yes, have just done that, you can take the bolts out in between the coils of the spring. its 30min job, no alignment needed. The spring will not leave space for a torquewrench, though.
Have done it both ways, much easier without the shock
This type of suspension is double wishbone, am I right?
yes, it's a double-wishbone suspension on each side.
AUTODOC
great video
We are glad that this video was useful to you!
Mulțumim pt sfaturi.
Stimate Client, Vă mulțumim pentru feedback. Urmăriți canalul nostru de RUclips pentru mai multe videouri utile. Cu stimă, Echipa AutoDoc.
@@autodocuk Mult suces în această frumoasă meserie. 👍👏
Mistake in this video costed me 70€. Now I have stripped nut due to overtightening.
"75 nm is way too tight for the ball joint nut. Official spec says 41 to 50 nm."
Hi! Unfortunately, it is not possible to specify the tightening torque, this information can be found in the technical documentation for the repair of your car.
Same issue on both arms!!! This video is for a 159 and the video specifies 75nm. Thanks. Video itself was usefull but ill never trust the given torque specs from their videos again…
Hi.
I did srew 75 nm ball joint to the rest of suspension and is not true. Because I broke bolt. And now I have to order next wishbone. So I lost about
£89. 00.
Bullshit the arm can come out without taking the whole strut out, either compress the spring slightly to get the upper bolts out or just take the bolt out of the bottom fork and let it down a little.
Thank you for your comment! It is a valuable suggestion that will be very useful for our viewers. Best Regards, Autodoc Team.
non c'è bisogno di smontare mezza macchina per cambiare i bracci superiori?! che meccanico sei!
Your video have a incorrect information, about the upper wishbone ball-joint is #16 socket
how does one know this needs to be replaced?
Thank you for your question! Usually, when control arm is worn, the first thing that fails is the ball joint causing a knock while driving, however you can find out about it earlier if you have a professinal car workshop examine your suspension. Best Regards, Autodoc Team
75 nm is way too tight for the ball joint nut. Official spec says 41 to 50 nm.
You're right, we made a mistake in the credits. Unfortunately, we can't change the credits, but we will add information to the description. Thank you for your attention!
There's no commucation at all in the video....is this a sales advert or a guide video