Thank you very much for your videos. Three or 4 years ago I dis-assembled my Mosin M44. Today I wanted to put it back together. I got all the parts together which was a feat itself, but soon realized it was so damn long since I took it apart, that I had no idea how to get it back together.When I broke it down it was so simple, but after so long I thought I was looking at Manderin.. But thanks to your dis-assemble Part 2 video I did it: I just went backwards. Thanks again. I re-subscribe to you
Can't wait for the whole series!!! May I tell you that I LOVE how you spent considerable time looking for the perfect macro shots, closeups, lighting.. I could almost touch the bolt when you were disassembling it in the earlier video. Excellent, okay? !!!
Thank you so, so much for this vid. I couldn't understand written instructions to disassemble a Mosin, but with your vid I completely disassembled and cleaned a Mosin... then with a little effort - ok, a lot of effort - put it back together again.
Thank you so much for this series! I don't have any intention to sporterize my 91/30 (I like it too much the way it is), but I've already learned so much more than I thought possible, I'm definitely following this to the end. Awesome!
Watching like a hawk-so glad you're doing this video...it'll keep me busy scrutinizing until I get home. I'd like to do something similar, but shorten/recrown the barrel and the stock to fit, but keep it looking "military" with a PE style scope and mount...
Thanks Eric. This helped me to take apart the gun (including the bolt) to clean it out of cosmoline and gunk. Gonna run the bolt disassembly in reverse and see how to put it back together ;)
M44. Barrel cut at end of stock, 1916 Mauser front sight installed, bolt turned down about 45 degrees, recoil pad installed. It is mine, it is "sporterized", and it was never going to be a "collector's piece" that I had to maintain the value of. Sort of a "Mannlicher Tanker" type of conversion that never was but should have been.
thank you very much for the video, I like how you to the point with it and not ramble off about some crap, It reminds me of the style my Tac. Officer at my military school was so I like it
Thanks for this series...tons of excellent info. Been looking around for a proper set of screwdrivers for gunsmithing projects for a while now and was wondering what is the brand and where you got the set you are using in these videos. I like the way the bits on this set are designed to fit in the screw driver so the end of the actual screwdriver itself is closer to the end of the bit so there is less chance of twisting your bits out of the screw head. Lots of sizes to choose from too...
Cosmoline is a thick oil used to preserve the guns and keep them from rusting with they are stored for long periods of time even decades. It just can gum up the workings and make the bolt sticky.
Hello. First I wanna thank you for this video, it was very helpful in the cleaning of my new mosin. You mentioned that if the interupter tension is too tight you'll get scratches on the casing. Well I'm experiencing just that, so how do I go about reducing the interrupter spring tension? Thanks
My barrel bands are two front bands unfortunately. My Mosin is in a war time stock. It looks like someone threw it out of a truck going 100mph. There is even a bullet graze and multiple marks from being braced on a wall, window, or fence. I don't know if the gun was originally in that stock or not but its a 1935 and the bore is in excellent shape. It also has two more dates on it that were etched in. 1949 and 1950 with an MO etched in afterward. It shoots great but the bolt is slightly sticky.
@RonPaulIsiah cosmoline is like a super sticky grease type stuff they use to store old rifles and handguns to prevent rust and corrosion, the purpose of taking it off is so the gun will function properly and smoothly. In barrels it can be so caked on that it will affect the safe functioning of the firearm.
Interesting project! I just finished my own sportserising project on an Mauser m98 8.2mm At the end the only original part left was the action ore majure parts of it LOL. I put a Docter 1,5-6 x42 scope on it in leopold standard medium rings and it shoots sub MOA. I belive the M91 should do just as good. If there is a stellar barrel on it.
@Iraqveteran8888 Old college buddy is coming down with his three mosins (one regular, two '30 hex - one of which I'll buy) and we're going to disassemble & clean our four mosins. I must say, your instructions are definitely going to be a Huge help. Thanks for taking the time to do these videos! I also have to admit that I'm going to try 'usfreedom22's cosmo removal using the mineral spirits instead of the simple green. Again - thank you.
hi my mosin rear sight i cant see the pins to remove it and tips or a way i could send a picture to you so you can see and tell me how to take it off? it comes off on all mosin right?
@HungarianLegionairre Timney makes drop in trigger mechanisms. DAGS @henreycems a restoration would leave the machining marks as found since they are 'correct' for the gun. A restoration attempts to restore fit, function and appearance to (usually) like new. It doesn't go beyond that. For instance, if I restore the finish on my stock, I'll wipe the old shellac off with alcohol, lighten up the wood where dirt has been worked into the grain and re-apply orange shellac ... the original finish ... with a brush ... the original method of application. I will sand no more than the bare minimum to smooth out damaged spots and I will not sand between coats of finish because that step would have been skipped both in 1938, when the gun was made, and again when it was refurbished by the armory prior to storage after WW2. OTOH, if I wanted to turn it into a display piece for my wall, I'd (probably) remove the shellac, give it an over-all light sanding, apply tung oil generously (virtually guaranteeing that the wood will last for many more decades while simultaneously destroying its value as a museum piece) and finish off with many hand-rubbed tung / varnish layers with 000 steel wool between coats and finishing it off with paste wax applied with 0000 steel wool to bring it to a buttery sheen. Then, when the metal came back from being professionally re-blued and lovingly re-rifled, I would carefully and painstakingly re-assemble it and, with great reverence, place it in a location of honor above my fireplace while wearing white cotton gloves. Then I'd use my cheap 9mm pistol to kill anyone who dared put a finger print on it.
I have one big question. The lower portion of the handguard appears to be integral to the stock, is this the case with ALL Nagant rifles, like the finnish M28 for example?
hey i got my 91-30 a couple months ago and my whole upper receiver moves about a half inch does this happen with most 91-30s and is there some way to make it stop moving.
I have a 1938 Izzy, and there are no pins on the rear sight base. There is, however, a very small screw just underneath the rear sight leaf. Anybody come across this?
I HAVE INSTALLED AN SKS SAFETY ON THE NAGANT ..IT WORKS GREAT ...WHY WORRY SO MUCH ABOUT SCRATCHING UP A HUNDRED DOLLAR RIFLE? IF YOU'RE MAKING IT FUCTION BETTER ITS A SMALL PRICE
@AFeebleMind You asked two questions, so, since IV8888 has not bothered to answer you, I will. First: COULD you do what he is demonstrating? Yes. Pay close attention, go slowly, rewind the videos as needed and yes, you COULD do every thing he is demonstrating: gunsmithing is simply a sub-set of the wider realm of knowledge known as the machine trades. If you can envision in 3d and do some math (sometimes quite a bit of math!), you can master any portion of the machine trades you set out to master. If you can't do those two things (envisioning and math), you can't and should hire any work of this nature out to someone who can. But SHOULD you? That's a question you alone can answer. First off, the Mosin Nagant shoots a large bullet with considerable accuracy a LONG ways as is. If you shorten the barrel, you lose both range and accuracy at range. It's just physics and doesn't make you a bad person ... but it's unavoidable. So, the question of SHOULD you make these modifications is based entirely on your shooting intentions. Do you want to use this for long range elk hunting? Don't shorten the barrel. If you intend to use it for hunting in brush (for whitetail deer, for example), then nothing is lost in shortening the barrel a reasonable amount. If you have in mind mounting the action in (for instance) an Archangel tactical stock, you will probably want to modify the bolt to keep with the over all appearance of the stock. In that case, you will need to dis-assemble the bolt as shown. But if you don't intend to change over to a low profile bolt (necessary only if you intend to add a scope to the receiver later on), then pull the bolt assembly out of the receiver and lay it aside as an assembly, because there is no need to disassemble it any further at this point. The answer to "could I?" is a simple "yes." But only you can answer the other question of "should I?" because it's your rifle, your budget and your intentions ... not ours.
read the article by brandon clark as a download from brassstackerdotcom about barrel length...91-30 after looking at his work i am going to cut mine at 24 inches.....bf
Are you trying to come across like a drill sergeant with his first bunch of new recruits? Seriously...when you said," I'm gonna try an work quick, now pay attention!"......made me almost wet myself , NAH-- NOT REALLY. Lighten up, that part about you not taking any BS off people is meant to put the fear of God in just exactly who? By the way, respect is earned, not demanded.
Thank you very much for your videos. Three or 4 years ago I dis-assembled my Mosin M44. Today I wanted to put it back together. I got all the parts together which was a feat itself, but soon realized it was so damn long since I took it apart, that I had no idea how to get it back together.When I broke it down it was so simple, but after so long I thought I was looking at Manderin.. But thanks to your dis-assemble Part 2 video I did it: I just went backwards. Thanks again. I re-subscribe to you
Can't wait for the whole series!!!
May I tell you that I LOVE how you spent considerable time looking for the perfect macro shots, closeups, lighting.. I could almost touch the bolt when you were disassembling it in the earlier video.
Excellent, okay? !!!
Thank you so, so much for this vid. I couldn't understand written instructions to disassemble a Mosin, but with your vid I completely disassembled and cleaned a Mosin... then with a little effort - ok, a lot of effort - put it back together again.
Thank you so much for this series! I don't have any intention to sporterize my 91/30 (I like it too much the way it is), but I've already learned so much more than I thought possible, I'm definitely following this to the end. Awesome!
Excellent video. I really like the ingenious simplicity of the way the floorplate attaches to the magazine box.
Watching like a hawk-so glad you're doing this video...it'll keep me busy scrutinizing until I get home. I'd like to do something similar, but shorten/recrown the barrel and the stock to fit, but keep it looking "military" with a PE style scope and mount...
Thanks Eric. This helped me to take apart the gun (including the bolt) to clean it out of cosmoline and gunk. Gonna run the bolt disassembly in reverse and see how to put it back together ;)
Great series looking forward to the rest!
M44. Barrel cut at end of stock, 1916 Mauser front sight installed, bolt turned down about 45 degrees, recoil pad installed. It is mine, it is "sporterized", and it was never going to be a "collector's piece" that I had to maintain the value of. Sort of a "Mannlicher Tanker" type of conversion that never was but should have been.
Very helpful. Thank you for this series.
thank you very much for the video, I like how you to the point with it and not ramble off about some crap, It reminds me of the style my Tac. Officer at my military school was so I like it
Great documenting of the process so far, excellent detail and close-ups!
i too will be using rocksolid parts in my mosin!
Thanks for this series...tons of excellent info. Been looking around for a proper set of screwdrivers for gunsmithing projects for a while now and was wondering what is the brand and where you got the set you are using in these videos. I like the way the bits on this set are designed to fit in the screw driver so the end of the actual screwdriver itself is closer to the end of the bit so there is less chance of twisting your bits out of the screw head. Lots of sizes to choose from too...
Cosmoline is a thick oil used to preserve the guns and keep them from rusting with they are stored for long periods of time even decades. It just can gum up the workings and make the bolt sticky.
Hello. First I wanna thank you for this video, it was very helpful in the cleaning of my new mosin. You mentioned that if the interupter tension is too tight you'll get scratches on the casing. Well I'm experiencing just that, so how do I go about reducing the interrupter spring tension? Thanks
My barrel bands are two front bands unfortunately. My Mosin is in a war time stock. It looks like someone threw it out of a truck going 100mph. There is even a bullet graze and multiple marks from being braced on a wall, window, or fence. I don't know if the gun was originally in that stock or not but its a 1935 and the bore is in excellent shape. It also has two more dates on it that were etched in. 1949 and 1950 with an MO etched in afterward. It shoots great but the bolt is slightly sticky.
@RonPaulIsiah cosmoline is like a super sticky grease type stuff they use to store old rifles and handguns to prevent rust and corrosion, the purpose of taking it off is so the gun will function properly and smoothly. In barrels it can be so caked on that it will affect the safe functioning of the firearm.
Interesting project! I just finished my own sportserising project on an Mauser m98 8.2mm At the end the only original part left was the action ore majure parts of it LOL.
I put a Docter 1,5-6 x42 scope on it in leopold standard medium rings and it shoots sub MOA.
I belive the M91 should do just as good. If there is a stellar barrel on it.
You can also use the bigger cutout on the tool to unscrew the firing pin without depressing the spring.
Anyone else giggle when he said "Give it some gentle persuasion from the rear?" ;P
I have a 1917 Mosin Nagant, the action of the bolt is a little sticky, would you recommend checking the space gauge?
good info are you going to install the ATI scope mount and bolt on this one?
Nice info Eric!
Is sporterizing a nagant okay if you purchased it under your 03 FFL? I'm curious if modifying it violates any of the ATF regs.
Can you take the cross bolt out anyways so i can see it done. Great vid excellent clear video
A set of 4 inch wire pliers work great at the spring type barrel bands
Is there any way to safely remove the end caps from the piece of wood that sits on top of the barrel?
how to cut all stupid you werent safe comments out of a gun video: "of course theres no rounds in the gun im not an idiot"
Yea but idiots to have access to You Tube. I blame Obama...
Cheers for info mate. Very helpful.
Excellent video!
@Iraqveteran8888 Old college buddy is coming down with his three mosins (one regular, two '30 hex - one of which I'll buy) and we're going to disassemble & clean our four mosins. I must say, your instructions are definitely going to be a Huge help. Thanks for taking the time to do these videos! I also have to admit that I'm going to try 'usfreedom22's cosmo removal using the mineral spirits instead of the simple green. Again - thank you.
the head of the screws can be removed with standard 762x54 R rounds using the back of the round
Yea, screw drivers are just really fun or something though, kinda the go to for screws nowadays lol
I have a question. Is it normal for the serial number on the bottom of the reciver to not match the numbers on the top?
good vids. where in GA are you guys located?
hi my mosin rear sight i cant see the pins to remove it and tips or a way i could send a picture to you so you can see and tell me how to take it off? it comes off on all mosin right?
u mentioned a low profile bolt and a scope mount, could u send me a link to them?
Awesome! I don't even own a mosin nagant and these vids rock. The only Military surplus firearm I own is an Arisaka type ??
I want to put a scope on mine, utilyzing the spot where the rear sight would be. what type and size of scope mounts should i use?
Lots of folks don't take the grease out of the firing pin, and it burns the whole bolt up in no time. :)
I got my first mosin for christmas, beautiful of course. But, now I really want an svt-40 have any of you ever used one?
@HungarianLegionairre Timney makes drop in trigger mechanisms. DAGS
@henreycems a restoration would leave the machining marks as found since they are 'correct' for the gun. A restoration attempts to restore fit, function and appearance to (usually) like new. It doesn't go beyond that. For instance, if I restore the finish on my stock, I'll wipe the old shellac off with alcohol, lighten up the wood where dirt has been worked into the grain and re-apply orange shellac ... the original finish ... with a brush ... the original method of application. I will sand no more than the bare minimum to smooth out damaged spots and I will not sand between coats of finish because that step would have been skipped both in 1938, when the gun was made, and again when it was refurbished by the armory prior to storage after WW2.
OTOH, if I wanted to turn it into a display piece for my wall, I'd (probably) remove the shellac, give it an over-all light sanding, apply tung oil generously (virtually guaranteeing that the wood will last for many more decades while simultaneously destroying its value as a museum piece) and finish off with many hand-rubbed tung / varnish layers with 000 steel wool between coats and finishing it off with paste wax applied with 0000 steel wool to bring it to a buttery sheen. Then, when the metal came back from being professionally re-blued and lovingly re-rifled, I would carefully and painstakingly re-assemble it and, with great reverence, place it in a location of honor above my fireplace while wearing white cotton gloves.
Then I'd use my cheap 9mm pistol to kill anyone who dared put a finger print on it.
Firing pin protrusion tool has a flat head on the end that can be used to for all of the screw heads.
Could I pay you to do finishing and cosmoline removal & anti bolt sticking?
-- Top-Notch sir!
what do you do if you cant get that rear piece off,,my fireing pin just keeps spinning when I try to unscrew it,,thanks..
got mines on Friday, but I'm having a hard time removing the barrel bands.
hey i just got my mosin the other day its a 1929 but i have a question is it normal for the top handgard to be a bit loose
im getting a mosin nagant soon and i was wondering what is cosmoline and why is it so bad?
I have one big question. The lower portion of the handguard appears to be integral to the stock, is this the case with ALL Nagant rifles, like the finnish M28 for example?
hey i got my 91-30 a couple months ago and my whole upper receiver moves about a half inch does this happen with most 91-30s and is there some way to make it stop moving.
6:56 giggity
The safety or whatever will not come out. I broke a ton of blood vessels holding it down and still cant get it to screw off... Can someone help me?
Use the extractor to unscrew the firing pin.
i have a 48 yugo mauser and cant get the whole cleaning rod out, can i still sporterize mine? if so, would the process be similar? feel free to pm me
Did you do it?
so which is better the Russian made or Bulgarian ammo ?
I have a 1938 Izzy, and there are no pins on the rear sight base. There is, however, a very small screw just underneath the rear sight leaf. Anybody come across this?
Is there any difference of disassembly with a m44 carbine?
Other than the folding bayonet removal no there isn't
good vid
hay can i get that old stock
There seems to be somone our there that you've pisses off. 1 dislike on each part.
Anyway, great video.
You certainly know your stuff
"Gentle persuasion from the rear"
i cracked my trigger leaf spring, is this commen and if not does anyone know what i might be doing wrong?
the back part of my bolt is stuck :/
This is sweet sweet video.
@Gungeek you need a stock i have three
kroil ftw!
You are a big help........keep up the good work. You shouldn't waste your time commenting to the idiots. lol
@Gungeek THEY ARE FOR M-44 YOU NEED THEM LET ME KNOW
that's what she said, 6:57
2 days ago i bought my first firearm ever and it was a mosin nagant
nvm I got my barrel bands off... I did it the "ghetto" way by using two flat head screw drivers.. DAM COSMOLINE!!!
@dills2403 yes
"I'm not an idiot." - good to know :)
why are you Bubafying that gun?
I HAVE INSTALLED AN SKS SAFETY ON THE NAGANT ..IT WORKS GREAT ...WHY WORRY SO MUCH ABOUT SCRATCHING UP A HUNDRED DOLLAR RIFLE? IF YOU'RE MAKING IT FUCTION BETTER ITS A SMALL PRICE
@kelbo031890 Nope, that's normal.
★★★★★
@AFeebleMind You asked two questions, so, since IV8888 has not bothered to answer you, I will.
First: COULD you do what he is demonstrating? Yes. Pay close attention, go slowly, rewind the videos as needed and yes, you COULD do every thing he is demonstrating: gunsmithing is simply a sub-set of the wider realm of knowledge known as the machine trades. If you can envision in 3d and do some math (sometimes quite a bit of math!), you can master any portion of the machine trades you set out to master. If you can't do those two things (envisioning and math), you can't and should hire any work of this nature out to someone who can.
But SHOULD you? That's a question you alone can answer. First off, the Mosin Nagant shoots a large bullet with considerable accuracy a LONG ways as is. If you shorten the barrel, you lose both range and accuracy at range. It's just physics and doesn't make you a bad person ... but it's unavoidable. So, the question of SHOULD you make these modifications is based entirely on your shooting intentions. Do you want to use this for long range elk hunting? Don't shorten the barrel. If you intend to use it for hunting in brush (for whitetail deer, for example), then nothing is lost in shortening the barrel a reasonable amount.
If you have in mind mounting the action in (for instance) an Archangel tactical stock, you will probably want to modify the bolt to keep with the over all appearance of the stock. In that case, you will need to dis-assemble the bolt as shown. But if you don't intend to change over to a low profile bolt (necessary only if you intend to add a scope to the receiver later on), then pull the bolt assembly out of the receiver and lay it aside as an assembly, because there is no need to disassemble it any further at this point.
The answer to "could I?" is a simple "yes." But only you can answer the other question of "should I?" because it's your rifle, your budget and your intentions ... not ours.
read the article by brandon clark as a download from brassstackerdotcom about barrel length...91-30 after looking at his work i am going to cut mine at 24 inches.....bf
@HungarianLegionnaire
Timminy triggers
@gmako74 just do it...or get your C&R and order them from AIM for $70 :)
BIGGER HAMMER !!......😁
no bullets in the gun. im not an idiot.. haha funny shit!
Anyone here in 2021?
huber
☆☆☆☆☆
: )
Are you trying to come across like a drill sergeant with his first bunch of new recruits? Seriously...when you said," I'm gonna try an work quick, now pay attention!"......made me almost wet myself , NAH-- NOT REALLY. Lighten up, that part about you not taking any BS off people is meant to put the fear of God in just exactly who? By the way, respect is earned, not demanded.
Gotta love Russian engineering...