amazing content, thank you man, i just wish people who needed to see/ hear this would actually watch it instead of automatically thinking they already know best.
As a factory-trained Ammco service tech I've collected a decent amount of genuine Ammco parts over the last 40+ years. I'm retiring and have a parts inventory list if you are interested.
My arbor wobbles whenever I machine rotors. The lathe is on a perfect ground and I use appropriate type of cone, yet it wobbles. What could be the problem?
Anyone have any ideas how to fix runout on an accu turn lathe? Mine is doing CRAP work on rotors at the moment. If I can't fix it, I have to trash it as it is unreliable atm.
Never taken an accu turn apart but if you can take it apart like this and clean it I would try that. If u put it back together and it has a small bit of run out use ur dial indicator to find the high spot and then use a heavy brass hammer to hit the high spot then re check until it has less the one thousandth run out. If it has a lot of run out and the arbor is like this one where it’s tapered put valve lapping compound on the tapered area, turn machine on and put arbor in to lap it for like 45 seconds, turn machine off, clean compound out of lathe and shaft and if the area looks good install the shaft and see what you got, if it’s still really bad u might need a new arbor as long as you don’t have bad bearings or something causing that.
@@peanutbutterisfu I have tried the lapping compound method and it did not help. I believe it's going to be a bearing issue. The reason I think it is the bearings is because with my dial indicator on the arbor (regardless of clocking of arbor) I can lightly push up or down on the end of the arbor and the dial indicator goes crazy. I know that I have a lot of leverage out on the end of the arbor but very light finger pressure should not allow, or be causing, such massive swings on the dial indicator. I can push up, or down, with minimal pressure and the indicator is changing as much as .020"... I don't think that is normal. For as thick as the arbor shaft is I can't imagine that light finger pressure could bend it enough to allow that much deflection. Do you have any idea how difficult it is to change the bearings on one of these? I've been looking on-line and cannot find a diagram on how to disassemble or service it. Last year the electric motor went out and the company I called charged me $1200 to replace just the electric engine. I honestly did not ever imagine it would be that much so I did not ask for a quote up front. Needless to say I won't be calling them for ANYTHING going forward and will either have to fix this myself, or scrap the machine.
I love this guy!! He is awesome!!!! Need more videos like this, he's a great teacher and your content is way better articulated than anyone else!
amazing content, thank you man, i just wish people who needed to see/ hear this would actually watch it instead of automatically thinking they already know best.
As a factory-trained Ammco service tech I've collected a decent amount of genuine Ammco parts over the last 40+ years. I'm retiring and have a parts inventory list if you are interested.
7000 parts?
My arbor wobbles whenever I machine rotors. The lathe is on a perfect ground and I use appropriate type of cone, yet it wobbles. What could be the problem?
The measurement should be taken near the threads, the further you get away from the taper on the arbor the higher the runout will be.
King pin removal tool for trucks
Runout is checked near the threads not in the middle. It doesn't bend in the middle. It will bend at the arbor face
Anyone have any ideas how to fix runout on an accu turn lathe? Mine is doing CRAP work on rotors at the moment. If I can't fix it, I have to trash it as it is unreliable atm.
Never taken an accu turn apart but if you can take it apart like this and clean it I would try that. If u put it back together and it has a small bit of run out use ur dial indicator to find the high spot and then use a heavy brass hammer to hit the high spot then re check until it has less the one thousandth run out. If it has a lot of run out and the arbor is like this one where it’s tapered put valve lapping compound on the tapered area, turn machine on and put arbor in to lap it for like 45 seconds, turn machine off, clean compound out of lathe and shaft and if the area looks good install the shaft and see what you got, if it’s still really bad u might need a new arbor as long as you don’t have bad bearings or something causing that.
@@peanutbutterisfu I have tried the lapping compound method and it did not help. I believe it's going to be a bearing issue. The reason I think it is the bearings is because with my dial indicator on the arbor (regardless of clocking of arbor) I can lightly push up or down on the end of the arbor and the dial indicator goes crazy. I know that I have a lot of leverage out on the end of the arbor but very light finger pressure should not allow, or be causing, such massive swings on the dial indicator. I can push up, or down, with minimal pressure and the indicator is changing as much as .020"... I don't think that is normal. For as thick as the arbor shaft is I can't imagine that light finger pressure could bend it enough to allow that much deflection. Do you have any idea how difficult it is to change the bearings on one of these? I've been looking on-line and cannot find a diagram on how to disassemble or service it. Last year the electric motor went out and the company I called charged me $1200 to replace just the electric engine. I honestly did not ever imagine it would be that much so I did not ask for a quote up front. Needless to say I won't be calling them for ANYTHING going forward and will either have to fix this myself, or scrap the machine.
Not all arbors or lathes have the witness marks.