Great vid for those of us that want to DIY. The dreaded 12k maintenance mark. I say dreaded because I think a lot of us don't have the confidence to get into the valve checks. I'm closing in on that one. I ride a 23' GS Trophy and I'm a little over 10k now. I'll probably be at 12k in September or so. Thanks for taking the time to share this vid!
Checking the valves is pretty easy and not much you can screw up. If you check them and they are out of spec, you could just put it back together and take it to a shop to have the valves adjusted… that’s the part that’s a bit more complicated and scary. I’m at 30k miles and all my valves are still in spec and have never needed adjusting.
@@mustachemoto I just signed up on the bmwsporttouring forum. I'm going to retire in a couple of years and so I'm planning on being able to do more planned rides and catch some motorcycle events, rides, etc. I live in PA near Pittsburgh. Are you anywhere near me? I'm super ok with oil changes and final drive oil change. Just not a 100% on pulling valve covers. You make it look easy...but lol I'm in my 50's and I've seen plenty of people make a lot of things look easy. Then I get into whatever said thing is and screw it up.
@@mustachemoto i usually am afraid of checking valve clearance, but i use straight4's bikes, and you need to take of tank, valve cover, usually gasket gets damaged + it's tight af. You making really easy to undestand videos + no bullshit or too much talking in it. Thanks!
@thetrailbuzzard first, congratulations on your coming retirement and more time on the bike!!! I'm in Atlanta, but my mom lives in Morgantown, WV and my wife's family is from Pittsburgh! Anyway, I'm a bit too far away to give you a hand, but I bet you can find someone on one of the forums to drink a beer and look over your shoulder. BTW, I'm in my 50's too... and it's great!
@NapTooR Yeah, the boxer engine puts those valves right in front of you! Thanks for the compliment about my videos! I can't stand other youtubers who drag everything out and overcomplicate everything. Subscribe and keep watching... I'll keep posting!
I had difficulty lining up to TDC with the mallet procedure. There is a small amount of play in rear wheel and I found that simply rotating a few degrees within the play and lightly bumping it forward , it was much easier to control the engine rotation to line up the mark in the window.
Hey Steve, thanks for the tip. I had someone else suggest that too and it sounds even better than the mallet! Now, I just need to ride another 10K miles so it's time to check the valves again and I can try it out!
Also, remove both spark plugs before trying to rotate the wheel. That will eliminate compression on the other cylinder and make rotation smoother and easier.
I’d second the strong recommendation to watch the Boxflyer videos. Absolute gold. As I’m sure you are all aware, make sure to change your plugs, and also inspect the DLC on the followers, and bonus points to check (and adjust timing) if necessary.
People always say the feeler gauge feels tight think about this does a 1.3 feeler gauge fit a 1.3 gap NO because they are the same size 1.2 would be tight if it wasnt the lash would be looser than that some engine manufacturers say 1.3 at zero lash using a 6 inch lb torque wrench on the rocker adjuster and trust me it is tight pulling the feeler gauge out because they are almost the same size but not Machinists interference fit is typically .002 under the part its going over when you measure a gauge block with a mic do they fit loose No
I've got the low suspension version, which you wouldn't want (I'm only 5'6"), but I think you'd be fine with the standard suspension. I believe they also offer a sport suspension that's even taller and they offer tall seats too.
Hey good stuff for sure. I also do my own maintenance but are you ever concerned about BMW voiding a warranty claim especially because you are doing your valve adjustment? you know how BMW can be.
I bought my bike used and out of warranty, so not an issue for me. I don't think it would be an issue as long as you document what you do. I keep a notebook with all my maintenance with dates and mileage.
Good, common sense video. Instead of fooling with pulling on the wheel and using a mallet, you can just rock the rear wheel fore and aft and use the slack in the rear wheel drive train to gently bump the engine forward to the desired TDC spot. If you are anal and worried about the directional tension on the cam drive, if you overshoot your mark, bump the wheel in reverse direction and then resume a gentle series of forward bumps to get you where you need to be. No need to go all the way around again to TDC.
I refuse to pay upwards of $1200 here in Arizona for that service. I have most tools already but my question is this: how do I back out the left lower crash bar thats too close to my engine cover due to me dripping the bike in a parking lot? Thanks in advance for any help. 🫡🇺🇸🌵
damn, I've bought motorcycles for less than that!!! Hard to say without seeing your bike, but depending on the clearance you have, you could either use a wobble extension on the torx bit like this amzn.to/4d1QK7M , or you could maybe use short "allen key" style torx wrenches like these: amzn.to/3ytq5lc
Nice work, these bikes are very easy to work on.
Yeah, not having to strip off plastic is a huge bonus
Great work here. Super clear explanation!
thank you! I try to simplify!
Great vid for those of us that want to DIY. The dreaded 12k maintenance mark. I say dreaded because I think a lot of us don't have the confidence to get into the valve checks. I'm closing in on that one. I ride a 23' GS Trophy and I'm a little over 10k now. I'll probably be at 12k in September or so. Thanks for taking the time to share this vid!
Checking the valves is pretty easy and not much you can screw up. If you check them and they are out of spec, you could just put it back together and take it to a shop to have the valves adjusted… that’s the part that’s a bit more complicated and scary. I’m at 30k miles and all my valves are still in spec and have never needed adjusting.
@@mustachemoto I just signed up on the bmwsporttouring forum. I'm going to retire in a couple of years and so I'm planning on being able to do more planned rides and catch some motorcycle events, rides, etc. I live in PA near Pittsburgh. Are you anywhere near me? I'm super ok with oil changes and final drive oil change. Just not a 100% on pulling valve covers. You make it look easy...but lol I'm in my 50's and I've seen plenty of people make a lot of things look easy. Then I get into whatever said thing is and screw it up.
@@mustachemoto i usually am afraid of checking valve clearance, but i use straight4's bikes, and you need to take of tank, valve cover, usually gasket gets damaged + it's tight af. You making really easy to undestand videos + no bullshit or too much talking in it. Thanks!
@thetrailbuzzard first, congratulations on your coming retirement and more time on the bike!!! I'm in Atlanta, but my mom lives in Morgantown, WV and my wife's family is from Pittsburgh! Anyway, I'm a bit too far away to give you a hand, but I bet you can find someone on one of the forums to drink a beer and look over your shoulder. BTW, I'm in my 50's too... and it's great!
@NapTooR Yeah, the boxer engine puts those valves right in front of you! Thanks for the compliment about my videos! I can't stand other youtubers who drag everything out and overcomplicate everything. Subscribe and keep watching... I'll keep posting!
I had difficulty lining up to TDC with the mallet procedure. There is a small amount of play in rear wheel and I found that simply rotating a few degrees within the play and lightly bumping it forward , it was much easier to control the engine rotation to line up the mark in the window.
Hey Steve, thanks for the tip. I had someone else suggest that too and it sounds even better than the mallet! Now, I just need to ride another 10K miles so it's time to check the valves again and I can try it out!
if you unscrew second sparkplug should be easier to rotate rear wheel
That's with both sparkplugs out!
Also, remove both spark plugs before trying to rotate the wheel. That will eliminate compression on the other cylinder and make rotation smoother and easier.
Yep… that was with both removed!
Nice video, and I like the trick with the mallet.
It really works well.
I’d second the strong recommendation to watch the Boxflyer videos. Absolute gold.
As I’m sure you are all aware, make sure to change your plugs, and also inspect the DLC on the followers, and bonus points to check (and adjust timing) if necessary.
Yeah, those plugs don't last! What does DLC stand for?
@@mustachemoto en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diamond-like_carbon
People always say the feeler gauge feels tight think about this
does a 1.3 feeler gauge fit a 1.3 gap NO because they are the same size 1.2 would be tight if it wasnt the lash would be looser than that
some engine manufacturers say 1.3 at zero lash using a 6 inch lb torque wrench on the rocker adjuster and trust me it is tight pulling the feeler gauge out because they are almost the same size but not
Machinists interference fit is typically .002 under the part its going over
when you measure a gauge block with a mic do they fit loose No
Great point and thanks for sharing your experience!
Beautiful bike. Think I’ll fit at 6ft6? I’ve only been on the KLR.
I've got the low suspension version, which you wouldn't want (I'm only 5'6"), but I think you'd be fine with the standard suspension. I believe they also offer a sport suspension that's even taller and they offer tall seats too.
@ Roger that thank you Sir!
Thank you
Glad I could help! Subscribe and keep watching… I’ll keep posting!
Hey good stuff for sure. I also do my own maintenance but are you ever concerned about BMW voiding a warranty claim especially because you are doing your valve adjustment? you know how BMW can be.
I bought my bike used and out of warranty, so not an issue for me. I don't think it would be an issue as long as you document what you do. I keep a notebook with all my maintenance with dates and mileage.
Cool
Thank you!
Good, common sense video. Instead of fooling with pulling on the wheel and using a mallet, you can just rock the rear wheel fore and aft and use the slack in the rear wheel drive train to gently bump the engine forward to the desired TDC spot. If you are anal and worried about the directional tension on the cam drive, if you overshoot your mark, bump the wheel in reverse direction and then resume a gentle series of forward bumps to get you where you need to be. No need to go all the way around again to TDC.
I'll give that a try at my next service... thanks!
I refuse to pay upwards of $1200 here in Arizona for that service. I have most tools already but my question is this: how do I back out the left lower crash bar thats too close to my engine cover due to me dripping the bike in a parking lot? Thanks in advance for any help. 🫡🇺🇸🌵
damn, I've bought motorcycles for less than that!!! Hard to say without seeing your bike, but depending on the clearance you have, you could either use a wobble extension on the torx bit like this amzn.to/4d1QK7M , or you could maybe use short "allen key" style torx wrenches like these: amzn.to/3ytq5lc
@@mustachemoto no more money for stealerships!! 🤣🤣