VVTi 300 Degrees Cams - Dyno tested
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
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Test engine spec:
Modified smallport head w/ oversized valves
kelford beehive valve springs
shimless buckets
oversize toda pistons (1627cc)
bc rods
approx 12.5:1 compression
arp hardware throughout
toda oil pump gears
toda 3.7kg flywheel
52mm itb's
Garage4age Header and 3" exhaust
Link g4 ecu
Kelford 304/300 camshafts + VVTi
I love how the vvt curve just rode the top of the other curves, superb display.
thats with all dyno charts. lol
This is a good illustration why pretty much all modern engines have some some sort of vvt.
I remember, a while ago, you had a variable intake manifold prototype working. I think it's time to revisit that.
Would be cool. but not worth it with the vvti. i wrote a big story about it up there somewhere ^
@@Garage4age would using both variable intake and vvt help ?
@@sigmamale4147 Variable intake doesn't have a whole lot on a fixed length intake of the correct length. well unless the variable setup was to extend out longer than what almost everyone could fit in there engine bay. With the vvti you can effectively shuffle the intake tuning a little, since are altering valve open/close events. for example, if you made the intake runner a bit long and starts to fall over up top. can retard the intake cam and gain back most of the power. only works to a point and there is still a sweet spot for the runner length. but you can see how will be less benefit from a variable intake on an engine with vvti. Also have to factor in the variable intake will likely be at a disadvantage shape wise vs what can do with a fixed runner
Anyone starting to think removing vvti when installing big cams is a bad idea? Also due to popular request and confusion what a killawasp is. I managed to get a HP scale up. It may or may not stay, as the dyno software wont save my settings and is a complete pain to setup every time.
Hi bro.... I am sure I saw you cruising around the Paparoa area last year.... If you are in the Kaipara area let me know, I would love to pop over and have a look at your Staglet
i will be keeping VVT on my miata. My recent dyno results show it really helps. I wont be doing big cams yet but its on the menu.
Man I'd love to see some backroad spirited driving after the Dyno part of videos I wanna see this thing on the road!
Thank you so much for tossing up HP! Even if it doesnt stay, seeing it for bigger comparisons like this is awesome
hp scale is greatly appreciated, maybe just bring it back for 'milestone' vids like this one? Here in the UK km's, kg's and litres are standard in everyday life, but I only ever see kW's on my energy bills!
Variable Valve Timing is such a wonderful thing, love it how you do the comparison every time 🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩
I'm here to listen to all the induction noises! ❤
The massive gains down lower more than make up the slight loss up high. This would be faster around a track.
At least easier to use. But if there is a meaty midrange, it can help a bit
Depends on how close your gear ratios are! I’m sure the formula Atlantic seldom sees rpms below 8k on track. That said for a street car like this, having VVTi is a no brainer
Ultra impressed again about gaining without loosing. Magician!
great job watching the journey ur taking to make great informative videos is epic, I dont know how much more you can still do with the 4AGE but im here to see
I remember some old Best Motoring one of the tuners being shown off was discussing 20v setups, 1.9 Liter, target similar power with peak closer to 9k like yours, idea was engine could live longer then more extreme setups, i think 15-30k km or so before rebuilds can't remember exactly, with target close to 210PS i think it was. Not sure if longevity is your concern, but cool to see such a powerful 4AGE at the 9k region, setup seems extremely well refined.
Yeah if can do it with the 1.6 its going to outlast the 7a/stroker blocks. lower piston speeds touch better rod ratio. thats my plan with the long rod 1.6. if this stock block one survives without much drama. should be easy days for the long rod bottom end
I'm French, i love your channel and your test !! Thank's for the conversion kw/hp 👌
God almighty your Dyno videos never get boring. What a stunning noise she makes!
someone give this person a fully variable valve engine
Nice. Excited for when you reveal the process to implement vvti.
220rwhp out of 1.6L is completely bananas and show the power of rpm. Big win for the VVT giving a suitable mid range with this big cam. So if you could make 220rwhp out of 1.6L then 400rwhp out of 3.0-3.5L shouldn't be that difficult.
200+ horsepower out of a 1.6l N/A engine, crazy.
I had to double check the power number for a sec. 160kw from a 1.6L N/A. Unreal!
... and Its WHP, not HP!
220HP, and folks are complaining about having to make power out of 3.0 or 3.5L... Those are like big blocks in comparison.
I didn't realize it was rwhp, I thought it was engine HP. 220HP to the wheels is like 258HP to the engine. Which means out of 3.0L or 3.3L with similar setup he could make 500HP+.
Only way to siphon out even more power beyond variable cam timing (beyond varied lift, which isn't really a worthwhile modification to do to a 4AGE due to how insanely complex that would be), would be variable runner length setup (á la 787B's mechanical runners moving). Not too hard to do mechanically, it's just making it vary based on the power-range appropriately that is the complex part.
Maybe more area under the curve, but he could still tune for same peak.
Would be cool to try. but i've pretty shelved the idea for good. Have done testing on it in the past. To have any notable benefit. the runners would have to extend out quite a lot further than the current setup. which is tuned for around 8500rpm on fixed cam timing setup. going shorter wont do much. so fitment the number 1 issue. number 2; to a telescoping setup like the mazda runs. you pretty much have to run a straight runner, so is a small loss losing the ideal runner shape. I also tested a 2 stage setup that changed both diameter and length at the same time (in fixed form). even have a design that should have worked. but would still would sacrifice the ideal runner shape. Its actually quite hard to beat the ideal fixed length setup by much. But still the gains may have still been worth the hassle. Then come along the vvti setup. which to a point does the similar thing. this video touches on it ruclips.net/video/36DR-1zsiks/видео.html . iIchanged the runner length and lost the peak. but then used the vvti to drag power back to pretty much the same. In saying all that, it will be worth revisiting the runner length on this engine now.
Wow, awesome numbers. Definitely a lot to consider when looking at real graphs.
I'd be very interested to see how much actually power change you get using different wheel sizes in a dyno. Could be a good excuse to breakout the Hilux on the channel again
I used to have a set of 4.2kg Hart racing 15x7 that would be perfect for this machine
There is an old video, maybe one of the first dyno vids i done. testing some different wheels on the hilux. it mostly shows bias ply mud tyres are a bad day on dyno haha
@@Garage4age yeah I did think how much of a bad idea muddy sounded on dyno! Haha but I'll check it out, thanks!
@@Garage4age I do remember that video now I've seen it again. I was just arguing the other day about power loss over 31, 33 and 35 inch tyres
@@astromarky123 my dyno is braked so the wheel weight/size will possibly show up less than on an inertia only dyno. the bias tyres are something different again
Very nice video, the engine sounds amazing.
I havent seen that much info packed into 6 minutes in a long time.
It sounds so agresive at top rpm 4age is life
Man so good, managed to get 217hp/199whp out of my Honda B16. I wish i had a dyno at home like you lol, i would squeeze every hp out the engine.
Love your videos
I seem to see a breather from the valve cover to the fender? More power to be made by inducing a vacuum in the Crank case. Either a dry sump oiling system or an external vacuum pump. A pan O vac on the exhaust at the collector is very effective but emission dirty. I find that the vacuum will need to be regulated or it can destroy the front and rear main seals.
Is there really power to be made from having vacuum on the crankcase vs VTA? I understand that a dry sump can help reduce losses by pulling oil away from the crank, is this what you mean?
I made a video where i put a vacuum cleaner on that breather pipe, mostly for a laugh, but the internet got angry as it does.. It didn't do anything other than sucking some oil out of the engine haha ruclips.net/video/2fg0eZzRNZI/видео.html
@@Garage4age I watched that video. A vacuum is useless. You need to pump a real vacuum inside the crank case. The back side of the Pistons, the rotating mass of the crank and rods, all contribute to surprising large power consumption. Try with a real vacuum inside if the crank case. Yes removing oil from rotating mass is part of the equation. Removing air from being violently sucking and pushing on the pistons has a much larger effect. To see results you will need to measure the vacuum created in the crank case. You will need to pull almost a full vacuum. This is more relevant at high rpm. I would expect to see a 10 hp gain at 20 inches of vacuum.
@@konradgeorgeson dry sumps provide more power than they consume due to sucking an actual vacuum inside the crankcase. Keeping oil from flinging around definitely helps. I have used air pump check valves on tubes run into the exhaust collector to create strong vacuums inside the crank case. Using an effective oil air separator is a must. I measured 20 inches of vacuum. This was a dramatic power increase on a 1974 Alfa 2.0 engine. I required a very good flowing exhaust. Alfa’s have a very efficient oil and air separator.
Gotta love that 4age singing !!!
Crazy what some vvt can change alot. Nice run!
I read about a really cool way to get increased power out of an engine recently, and it actually came from Smokey Yunick of NASCAR fame. He discovered that as the flywheel spins, it causes positive air pressure to build inside the bell housing. He filled the empty space around the flywheel with foam, then cranked the engine over to self-clear a path for the air to flow. By giving the air an inlet and then sending the output to the intake manifold, Smokey made 10 psi of boost pressure which in his case was good for an extra 125HP. Do you think you could try it and see what it does for you?
Its 1st of January, not April.
Would a lighter flywheel work better for this?
@@ghoulbuster1 Not really sure, probably depends on the engine. From what I understand it was the teeth on the ring gear of the flywheel specifically that moves the air around, experimenting with the size and number of teeth would be a good start.
Tricks like this only make sense when you're trying to bend the rules for a racing class. Otherwise may as well just chuck a supercharger or turbo on. Thats very clever though!
Tack!
Another banger of a video. Happy New Year!
Happy new year. Thank you for all the awesome and incredibly valuable videos you made in 2022. Here's to many more in 2023 🥂
This stuff your doing is so interesting mate , keep it up! FYI when can I get a vvti pulley for the b18c made 😂😂😂😂
Thanks man! Oh you maybe waiting awhile for that haha
Hey @Garage4age I've been watching your videos for about two years now, and keep watching as you're making f1 engine power. would you consider making a discord servers please, I think we've got alot we could all learn from a active community. Cheers!, from a bloke from taranaki. have a good weekend.
In the process of helping a good friend build up a BT 20v for his mr2. Hoping to see close to these numbers. Built bottom end + larger valves, springs, haltech ecu and the works. I read about so many limitations as far as lift goes (tho many conflicting and near a decade+ old on the forums) but seeing this has me thinking maybe more duration is the answer? were planning 264s toda cams or maybe 272 possibly 9.0 lift since looks as the heads need a tiny bit of clearancing to run that much. Sadly you seem to only play with 16Vs(BT remain a tuning mystery :/) so you might not have the answers but these videos give me hope! Keep crankin em out! 🤘🏻
you'll have to go bigger cams than 272 if wanting to get big power out of any na 4age, 16 or 20v. but as always you bolt ons will have to be on point for it to make any midrange when going that big. peak power for that matter as well, have tuned a big cam 20v with wrong bot ons that made less power than my stock cam 20v. cam lift depends on duration to a point. can run higher peak lift on a longer duration cam.
@@Garage4age I see, so long dur but also big lift is your recommendation to maximize the duration for any "big" power with proper bolt ons. noted! that'll require some extensive (forum gatekepper) mods to the head from what I read for over 9mm of lift. tuning is something Im trying to become more knowledgeable. Personally was into AEs 10 years ago or so and getting 160 to the wheels was impressive af at the time. I'm not expecting more than 180 whp out of his build as I know 4ag isn't known for it power figures but it's new to my friend and him seeing how much money he's going to be spending for sub 250hp has his mind a little blown hah. would love to pick your brain with his build specs for some recommendations more but hate to bore you with endless questions. appreciate your videos and the info you share. it's all greatly appreciated!
Great video and graph visualization
VVTi is good
that it is
Nice job very informative
Some excellent work here.
Looking forward to you releasing the details on this magically operated setup 👌👌 This year I’m building a dream 4AG for a TA22. I have some FCR41’s for it and have been reasonably lost for internals inc the cams setup. Was looking at Kelford 193d so I didn’t have to switch to shim under bucket(?)🤔 Would love some more build videos of piecing them together and what components are good/bad.
Switching full faced buckets themselves isn't that much drama or silly expensive. use 1sz shimless buckets. but alot of the cams that need them will need to clearance head as well. not much drama if head is off tho. If want to stick with stock shim setup. i'd probably go with 193-c or if want a bit more and can go shim under/shimless go 193hvb . both you'll need to get you bolt ons pretty well dialed to make good midrange. but once you start going much past 300deg don't expect your engine to do much below 6k.
Vvt really for the win 👌🔥
Vvti keeping the best of both worlds! I'd guess it would be enough difference to feel peppy?
Huge difference on the street. the hvc setup really didn't get going till 6k due to the 2nd dip at 5500. It runs and drives a whole lot nicer also
This is impressive! Good job.
Nice comparison graphs as usual... I hope you one day share how you did the VVTi conversion. :D Am I the only one who noticed the CRT monitor is now gone and already replaced with an LCD?
Its my brother old tv, the trusty crt is waiting in the wings for when it blows up like the last screen haha
Love your videos, great as always! I use to fiddle with my own vvti from time to time but of course never had the luxury of so much dyno time as you. Could you share this particular VVTi map for example? From your experience, how fast does the vvti gear turn? For example, if -20 degrees is better after 6000 rpm, do you switch the map to -20 at 6000, or do you switch it a bit earlier so the gear has enough time to adjust (let's say at 5700). If i had to guess on this engine, the VVTi map would be something like max advance until 7250rpm, -10 from 7250 to 8250, -20 from 8250 to 8750 and -30 from 8750 to limiter. Is this close to your map?
Im just looking at it now, as need to make a few changes. On the dyno runs worst it misses the target is a few degrees where it ramps away fast at 8000rpm. on the road it misses the target in same place by 10deg in 1st gear as goes through the revs so fast. other gears are ok. I need to change the oil feed to a bigger line and tweak the vvti settings then it should be close to keeping up in 1st. so yeah its pretty quick, no need to get it moving early. yeah thats petty close to what the map is.
Great Job 👍👍👍👍👍
Awesome work !
What a massively elite curve.
Pretty cool experiment. Keep working at it and you may be able to make as much horsepower as a Polaris atv.
awesome video
Well now that you've got that down, why not add to the madness and throw something like a small high flow turbo on it and give it an extra half atmosphere. Be fun to see it at 305 HP because for sure you are a madman!
Don't you think about upgrading to like YourDyno dyno controler setup? Maybe a little modernization would improve your job? Ofcourse SportDevices would be a pro option, būt YourDevices have helped lots of DIYers too.
Cant justify the cost atm. current software and control works fine in most cases. But yes will be looking into one of those 2 when the time comes
Dear sir,
please inform us as to how one would go about VVTI-ing our own personal 4AGEs.
Sincerely,
The rest of us.
Ever thought about making UEL headers?
Another great video, thanks!
Billzilla.
Great job! My pinto 205 wait 😈
What is the bellmouth to valve distance? (tuned induction length) And what diameter TB butterfly? Fantastic work, amazing how you've kept all the bottom end of the stock motor and got the top end of a Formula Atlantic.
Best ever!
What's the next step now? Lightweight crank/rods? Stroker? Extreme porting? This is so good
It will likely get a long rod bottom end under it at some stage. But managed to get a touch more out of it today with some tweaks to vvti and tune
@@Garage4age funny you mention that, I just rewatched that video. These videos really make me want a 4ag
@@Garage4age Dry sump perhaps?
vvt is almost always an advantage, I never understood why people deleted it. If you dont want to use it, then set it to 0 degrees and don't mess with it...
Need to take this starlet to Dori dori
Mean , I sold my NZ NEW Ae86 that competed in the rothmans rally for $ 800 , almost makes me cry
I'm curious to see how the vvt would work with stock cams and tvis intake manifold.
no tvis manifold, but with stock cams and itb's : ruclips.net/video/B1mAesApxv0/видео.html or something a little bigger ruclips.net/video/uAolqtSAPcU/видео.html
Is it really over 450 Nm of Torque at the wheels from this 1.6L N/A engine? :O
Would be really happy about a reply :D
It would be 195nm at 6400rpm, torque at engine minus drive line loss. which is what most dyno's call "torque at wheels" mine is showing the actual torque applied to rollers/ road. which is different in every gear
Man, Im praying i can retrofit this to a 20v. This powerband is insane, and I absolutely HATED the idea of running a fixed cam gear
Is the JZ pulley youre using off of any specific JZ motor or just general? And Is it a direct fit or does it require the toda dowel?
all the vvti jz engines run same pulley. Is a huge amount of work to get it to work on a 16v 4age. custom parts and machine work. adapting to a 20v wouldn't be any easier. I would suggest putting in the work to get the stock vvt pulley to work with big cams. assuming thats the direction your going. Its not the ideal setup but still far better than fixed. It will be usable on bigger cams than people say. just a matter of setting it up right and possibly modifying a few things.
@@Garage4age any chance you could make a list or directions on how to retrofit this JZ pulley to the motor? Theyre a fair bit cheaper than the 20v’s pulley so expirimenting with them is far more ideal since the 20v’s is practically double their price lol
@@seven7een993 Its far to complex to write some instructions how to do it. plus i dont really want to sorry. If you look up the 2jz vvti system there are some diagrams of how it works. ignoring all that part of it; how to get the oil to the pulley and solenoid etc. the pulley sizes and offsets are different to 4age stuff. so the jz pulley has to be cut up start with and modified to fit different pulley to suit the 4a. but tbh thats the easy part. also the vvti requires feedback to the ecu, is a closed loop system. so need a sensor on the camshaft itself. also not that hard compared to the oil control side of it. unless you have a lot of time to figure it out and access to at least a a lathe and a mill, i wouldn't attempt it. Even if i were to build a 20v i would work with the stock stuff
@@Garage4age I see, Thats quite the task it seems. Ill look into devising that on my own time then, and adapting it to the 20v. For now i suppose i'll toil with the standard vvt gear. Since 194-C is the highest reccomended, Im wondering if I could still manage on a 194-D w VVT if i set the standard cam timing to 5 degrees retarded, so when it advances by the standard 30 it only goes to 25, or some sort of variation to this. I suppose the only way ill find out is checking my clearances once the head is ported
@@seven7een993 yep thats what i'd be doing. find piston to valve contact, then set max advance to minimum piston to valve clearance.
Can you try with some regular fuel available? Like E85 and unleaded, or whatever fuel you can have?
Yeah this is actually a good question. What kind of fuel are you using?
Its built to run on pump gas. currently on 98ron e10. It will actually make the same power on 95ron but no safety margin in terms of knock. can only get e85 as race gas here, so never bothered with it. probably only a few percent in it power wise going to e85. since engine isn't knock limited on pump gas. the altlantic engine in comparison is higher compression and runs on avgas 100
@@Garage4age the Atlantic Formula engine you tested was more compressed and with AvGas? And yet you have a better engine now.
@@Garage4age That's good to know. Basically what I have on pump eveeywhere here. You should probably try to do an e85 run just for the "content" regardless.
What would 220whp equates from crank in your setup?
maybe 240-250hp if had to guess
Ur my fav channel budd... Do you build engines for customers aswell as urself?
Thanks. I do the odd bit here and there, mostly for friends. not really setup to do anything in a big way.
Does VVTi help with idle in any way? I'm guessing with fixed timing and that much overlap, it must be really lopey :D
Yes it does. I design and grind camshafts for 2 years now and tune vvts for about 3 years. The difference in idle is absurd. Low and medium load we go for a more retarded timing in the intake. It makes the engine smoother and the consumption is A LOT better.
Yeah as above, night and day difference in idle. the pulley im using has 60 degrees of travel. which is way too much for this setup to use at wide open. but rather than limiting the pulley travel mechanically, it setup just before piston to valve contact at max advance. are using the extra travel at idle
A how to vvt a 16v would be nice
Will you ever dig into the 7AGEs?
Hold up... How on earth were you able to fit vvti cam on a 16v head ?
This is absolutely amazing!
I don't get the minus 10 20 30 degrees. Isn't minus 30 degrees from max adv like stock advancement? How is it more powerful on the high end if you're at stock timing?
Can we see a simple crank scraper test.
AE86の16バルブに乗っていますが、VVTiを取り付けるカムシャフトはどこで入手できますか？
Hi!
hi i have 4age 16valve ....can you plz advise on 63mm pistons and which size cams would u suggest
🔥🔥🔥🔥
Bit of a daft question, but do you "have to" disable the VVT on the big cams? I was under the impression you had the ability to change the VVT values in the ECU also?
in my case i cant really much advantage using it on the 318 intake cam because of piston to valve clearance. and the fact to 318 cam only works over such a small window of cam timing. simply because its open so long. there is nothing i can do cam timing wise to fill the hole in the low end with it. yes its ecu controlled but still physical limitations as above
Based on your knowledge and experience with VVTi, could this setup be implemented in a 3S-GE (big duration cams with VVTi)?
Are you talking big cams in the beams vvti or adding vvti to a normal 3s. either way it would be easier to just use the beams engine. from memory the cam gears on the beams engine bolt to the vvti pulleys. so if needed to re-index the vvti due to piston to valve issues. it shouldn't be that hard to do. from what i hear pulling the actual vvti pulleys apart on them is a bad day, very hard to put back together
@@Garage4age yessir, I have the Blacktop Beams 3S-GE. I've only found one set of cams that's advertised to work with the VVTi, a set of 268s from TODA.
@@rhubarbpie2027 Yeah you will be able to go bigger. but likely wont bolt straight in. will probably need find where piston to valve contact is. then find some way of setting the pulley to stop just before that. from a quick google to find some pics. looks like you should be able to modify the outer pulley to essentially make an adjustable pulley. or simply bolt the pulleys on in a different location. as said above ive heard the beams pulleys aren't something you want to completely pull apart, as have a big spring in them which ends in a bad day. so keep that in mind
@@Garage4age thank you for your knowledge 🙏 cheers from Okinawa 🍻❤
Hello...what are the size of valves(in and ex) please?
32 / 27.5
In the end of the day 100hp of ridiculous mechatune vs slapping a turbo on it for the same gain, which one is relevant?
Like anything, depends what you like i guess.
I assume you havent seen the hilux then... He's got both. Haha. Suffering through NA tuning is the best though
Hello, Do you know what actual valves overlap in tdc/deg? due to single VVTI what exhaust valves overlap was set? looks like you can get more with intake manifold instead of itb, at least way simplier and precise afr and injnition tuning.
exhaust works in same place as it would with fixed intake. as for numbers they aren't of much interest to me as set for best power on dyno. the intake cam has about 5.5mm lift at tdc fully advanced. from memory exhaust is 3.5-4mm. may get close with a single but unlikely will beat itb's. most of the power is in the runner length. tuning itb's is a non issue. have been doing them for 10's of years
@@Garage4age imho to much overlap
@@Oleg-fp9hn Well you cant really argue with the dyno.
Any hints on how to instal vvti?
How much does the fuelling change between different cam positions? Do you utilize closed loop to take care of it or re-tune manually for each run?
Not worth bothering fixing the afr in most cases. i done a video on how much it effects power. for example if you end up with a big 15-20kw hole and afr's drop into the 10's . the power its loosing from being too rich is maybe worth 1-2kw. so there is still going to be a massive drop in power even if got he afr back into the window it makes the same power. Smaller changes in power, the afr change will have near zero effect on power. ruclips.net/video/yjvPmG123nI/видео.html
@@Garage4age Thank you for the swift response and the link! Though I was more concerned about going lean with a boosted engine. I understand with n/a it's far less of an issue.
@@turboroman Hey, I already had it tuned for the vvti map. so any power losses seen here, it was going richer.
Hello, How many WHP and Nm are aimed for ?
Skip the HP numbers, just messes up the graph anyways
I'm sorry if I missed it but where did the vvt gear come from?
its a modified 2jz pulley
@@Garage4age do those need oil to operate or is it just spring loaded?
@@cjohn64 needs oil. the part sticking out the side with the hoses, is all custom and part of the vvti system.
@@Garage4age i see now. Very cool. Is there a write up on a forum for this mod because this is the first I have heard of anyone doing this to a 4age.
@@cjohn64 Pretty sure no one else has been silly enough to attempt it. I'm not letting out too much info of how i done it just yet.
Hey man, what flywheel would you recommend for a 4AGE blacktop 20V AE111? What brand would you say? Are the Todas good? Or MRP? is it worth it over a factory blacktop flywheel? Thanks
this engine runs the 3.7kg 200mm flywheel. very noticeable going from blacktop flywheel. the 200mm clutches being lighter also
@@Garage4age Ok mine is a factory blacktop AE111 that I am converting to manual. Would you change to a 200mm setup or leave it 215mm? I was thinking of getting a 4.3kg flywheel and excedy HD clutch
@@nzuncovered1845 The 200mm will handle anything the blacktop will throw at it unless turbo. just run a hd pressure plate
@@Garage4age Ok thanks, does it matter that I have factory c56 bell housing? Is the ring gear the same size on both 200mm and 215mm?
@@nzuncovered1845 yeah everything is the same fitment wise to gearbox /starter. only 4agze 225/230mm stuff is different (bigger spline)
where you got your stacks from?
made them myself
🏆👑💯💥👌💪
What VVTi gear is this on the intake, it looks different from 20v VVT gear.
It's a modified 2jz gear
@@Garage4age what's the benefit of a 2jz gear instead of say a 20v vvt gear. Also is it possible to retrofit vvt gear on the exhaust side too?
@@user-gd3ch9ix1x 20v gear is only 2 position 30degrees travel. Just on or off. The jz gear is 60 degrees fully variable controlled by ecu. But requires more stuff to run it. Oil control, sensor and ecu wise. Isn't much to be gained, on the exhaust side over correct fixed timing. So not really worth doing
Are there any good resources on the 2jz vvt gear retrofit?
@@Garage4age also what is the reason there's not much gains on vvt on exhaust. 2jz and beams have it. Is it displacement?
What ecu are you using
link g4
I got my self a beans engine on a 86 corolla I want to change it to carburetors just looking for a good set up yours look pretty good
Have you done much porting work on the head, or is it mostly factory aside from the oversize valves?
intake,exhaust and chambers all had work done.
@@Garage4age Did you do this yourself, or have it professionally ported?
@@404-ThisUsernameIsAlreadyTaken I done all the port work. my engine guy done the machine work, larger valve seats etc.
я ждал когда мотор срыгнет
An epiphany.
Dyno's cost what, 10k used? Fully built fouraaaage (🧐) per what I call "JDM gods approval", 20-25k assuming market hasn't changed?
Taking your time with dyno (which most don't), a 4A-GE with 5-8k in it can make equal power, leaving effectively 10k to spend on the rest of the car 🤔
Thats not right
Geting hp buy degresing timing!!
It's cam timing not ignition timing
Top quality work (as always)
The 4A NA king. Thank you for sharing! If you have a minute to respond to my IG message I'd appreciate it!
How come toyota is so far behind honda in terms of na engines?
These engines were first sold in 1983. while this one has the 89 spec head isnt that much difference in what can be done. so apples to apples at the time you'd have to compare it to the ZC engine. but in saying that, there aren't to many b16's making these numbers
Yamaha has never tailed Honda.
Not ever.