That staple remover tool is a game changer,especially if you do a lot of panel changes/upgrades,remodel work.i own one and I absolutely love it! Great job as always.
I live in socal and socal Edison is the electric utility and disconnecting the service is normally done by the electrician as you do in new Jersey . The only difference Edison normally has a lock ring on the meter so you have to call them to remove it before you do the service and call them to put it back .
Nice job Ron. Could use a MLO panel instead of a MBP indoors but I like the idea of not having to go outside to shut off all power. Could drill the garage floor and put the GR indoors, save having to patch the sidewalk. I was worried that after tapping the panel between the studs that maybe the cover screws would not line up but worked out ok.
Ron, I really really appreciate everything you do and I do follow you being Electrician myself. Just FYI you know the siding on a house is asbestos. I would have recommended for you to wear gloves. Stay blessed
Super interesting to hear actual accurate information worded differently than how I speak just because we are in different locations in the USA. It is helping my brain work through things better and I think it may help me explain things to customers better because of it. Thanks for the video!
GREAT JOB! I liked the professionalism! I usually just use my multi-tool to cut through sheetrock close to wires... Your narration was great and also liked the service disconnect parts... That's awesome!
Ron, As usual you can take pride in this installation. After watching your channel I'd change the way I do one thing that is starkly I would automatically correct other people's work that fell short of my standards. But, I've learned from you that then you take on that predecessors possibly poor or even problematic issues. So now I check with my customer pointing out the issue and asking to make any changes.
It’s never easy and once you touch it you own it. Someone else ran the circuit for the Tesla pedestal and they sleeved 6/2 NM through the conduit, in a wet location. Not my work but that could be problematic down the road.
I have a pet peeve - if you were doing my panel, I would absolutely request the neutral conductor be landed at the same location as the ungrounded conductor - aka - attach neutral on the neutral bus under the breaker. My reason is simple - should the home owner decide to use a GFCI or AFCI in the future; with PON panels, you simply move the neutral from the bar to the breaker. The other comment I have is to install the service entrance conductors before landing all the wires. Nobody is moving the big wires, so why put them on top of the wires that can potentially get moved. You do amazing work and I appreciate you videos - but this how I prefer to install panels as my focus is on future serviceability. Somewhat like engineering a car with the oil filter in some ungodly location that seemed convenient when the engine was built but has poor serviceability. Take care Ron and thanks again for everything.
GLAD TO SEE YA BACK RON THANKS SO MUCH ON THE TIPS AS YOU ARE INSTALLING VERY HELPFUL LEARN SOMETHING NEW EACH TIME I WATCH YOUR VIDEOS HAVE A GOOD WEEK AND BE SAFE
Thanks Ron, always interesting to see a Pro doing electrical work. I have a question about removing the old panel and all the circuit wires …. How do you identify each circuit so you can hook up the new breakers and identify each one on the panel inside lid? Tganks
Thank you for being a long-time subscriber. I feel like you thank me for sharing my knowledge in every video and I do sincerely appreciate your gratefulness. Awesome!
Great work, Ron! Question: A lot of other RUclips Electricians talk about how important it is to Torque your lugs and screws to the proper setting. What's your opinion about using torque wrenches screwdrivers for your electrical work? Thanks!!
correct me if I'm wrong didn't you say the rain head should be above the hook. Also can I bond a csst gas flex line to the water main instead of running all the way back to the panel thanks
Another great video ! Why did you drive a an extra ground rod ? was that only to satisfy the inspector because you said they already had a ground rod installed but I figured maybe it's covered and he can't inspect so he would want another ground rod ? Let me know !
For multi wire branch circuits I would like to see a tag on the neutral to indicate it is part of a MWBC. If the neutral was ever disconnected while the hots were in use, 120VAC equipment could see 240VAC.
In the example that Ron is sharing the two ungrounded conductors are at the same potential since they are fed from a common lug in the panel. 210.4 does not apply since there is no voltage between these conductors. The larger issue here is that since both ungrounded conductors are protected by 20 amp breakers the neutral can carry the, in phase, current of both ungrounded conductors significantly over rating of the single neutral.
Hi Ron, thank you for all the content. I'm an EC in the Seattle area. It's good to see how things are done in other parts of the country. Most of the jurisdictions over here would require GEC to be phased green. I usually purchase extra #6 Cu when doing my ground rods and use the leftover for my EGC on 200A upgrades. I like the way you do the panels. Who make those button connectors you used in the panel and do they make them for range cables.
230.85(3) and 230.82(10) allow for the emergency disconnect and service disconnect to be in separate enclosures. That means the outside emergency disconnect does not need overcurrent protection, 3 wire may be run to the main panel, and neutrals and grounds do not need to be separated. In this case a main breaker would still be required in the main panel, but main breaker panels are cheaper than main lug anyway
I've often wondered why we don't put the grounding rod top connection in a waterproof box at least to protect it from corrosion, then you can bury it without any problems. Leave it open for the inspector to see then bury it.
Curious as to why you have a breaker in the panel as opposed to main lug panel seeing how there is a breaker outside as well. Nice work, I like watching these sort of videos to see how people work, everyone is different and you can pick up certain tricks never seen before .
I bet the guy hired someone to install that Tesla charger and they told them they couldn’t run it on that service so the guy called you. It’s interesting seeing how residential electric work is done. I used to do electrical work for AT&T at their cell cites which is mostly -48VDC but of course all the sites do have either a 200/400A main panel. Their standards are hardcore. It’s interesting seeing what the NEC let’s you do and how much of it would not fly with AT&T. (Example: no zip ties anywhere, you had to tie cables together with wax string, no romex, basically every electrical connection is lugged, every cable needs a very detailed dog tag on it, colored tape, heat shrink, etc…)
The only time the current will cancel each other on that neutral is if you use a 2pole breaker, with a multi wire branch circuit you can even push your voltage further away up to 50%.So it does has some benefits
It does have benefits but as noted in the video if you lose that - for whatever reason - the circuit becomes a series circuit and of course the tv or computer will be sacrificed while the table lamp from Target will be spared.
Ron, why didn't you put the main breaker on the bottom? You covered up a lot of branch circuit screws on the neutral bar, plus the ungrounded 4/0 take up alot of space, It all could of been avoided if you would of inverted the panel, main breaker on the bottom, That's why Eaton CSR or BW style main breaker turns on and off sideways.
Ron how you doing? I like you videos .i have aquarium,doesn’t the utility company suppose to de energize the service every time we do a service change?just curious do they let you do that in your state thanks Ron
I've installed them before and I wasn't impressed. It's only good for NM cables but if you have a few BX cables it does come with standard 1/2" and 3/4" knockouts. Good luck getting the panel cover on too. The mounting holes on the door NEVER line up with the holes on the enclosure. Last one I did I needed to use clamps attached back-to-back just to get the cover on. I'm not making that up either.
Can that exterior disconnect have a breaker for the Tesla charger so that it would not have to go into the interior panel or do they have one that would do that?
The 4 new 12/2 Romex you terminated, how come you didn’t install Arc fault/ Gfi breakers what’ are the loads? They were added when you upgraded the service. So wouldn’t you have needed those??
I’m adding in some dual function breakers and have to use a splice. It’s technically correct but ugly as hell and I don’t like it. An extra 2 inches of neutral from buddy that wired it first time would have saved me the headache
I just wired up a 230 air conditioner it uses 2 hot legs 20 amp 2 pole but no neutral. There's no neutral involved in this wiring. How does that work how does the current get back to the source with no neutral wire?
The two hots are running in opposite alternate phase. Being split phase the power never comes together at the same time. The power comes in one leg leaves on the other and switches. No neutral.
Simple. The air compressor is straight 240 volts. We call this a series circuit. The dryer is 120/ 240 volts. This requires the neutral and (2) hots that make up what’s known as a series/ parallel circuit. Hope this helps.
I swear half the circuits in my house are multi wire branch circuits. The electrician who wired my addition loved them. I hear GE panels have the best support for Arc faults in MWBC. They don't require a neutral connector and you just handle tie them like normal breakers.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I have yet to see any electrician say anything positive about ge panels. Was doing some searching and the new Siemens afcis don't use the neutral either. There must be something to it.
@@OnusofStrife, Hi what you are calling "no neutral" is actually referred to as "Plug-On-Neutral" by the manufacturer's. Instead of a separate "piggy tail" neutral wire coming off the P-o-N breaker they are designed with a neutral connector that snaps onto a P-o-N breaker panel designed with that purpose in mind to accept the neutral connector as the breaker is connected, thus eliminating the "piggy tail" wires running to the neutral bars in the panels for all the AFCI's and GFCI's
@@bobrub I thought I replied. But, GE and Newer Siemens Arc Faults ( post 2023 per Siemens ) allow you to land the circuit neutral on the neutral bar, they don't have to be made on the breaker, as they no longer use the neutral to monitor the circuit for arc faults.
One way to help with that would be to have the panel surface mounted as opposed to inset in the wall cavity.i know when it's inset it looks *cleaner* and most homeowners want it in the wall cavity but I think surface mounted is more practical,especially if you are planning to add circuits in future.just my humble opinion.
Not sure who puts in a charging station, before they discover they need a service upgrade , maybe geek squad does them now😂…. I would have cut that 1” lb and brought it in where needed instead of working around and wasting time. Just my 2 cents. God bless!
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I have done it several times. The trick is with a rotational pipe/tubing cutter just scoring it enough to snap it by hand then clean it up for another LB etc… Any how You do great work .. Wish I could find 10 of You for my business 👍
I need service upgrade from 100a to 200a JCP&L. I didn’t find your email address from the description. Do you have an email address or maybe you can share part & labor cost? I’m from Wayne, NJ 07470. Thanks, great videos BTW.
Before the term 'Politically Correct' came into common usage we still had the terms like Polite, Respectful, Considerate, and Dignity. These days it seems too easy for many people to dismiss modifying their language by claiming that doing so would be politically correct. But I don't hear people say that we shouldn't be polite, respectful, considerate, and show people dignity. I assume that you would be fine doing work for customers if you found out they were lesbians. But I'd bet that you would make an effort to avoid speaking a word that sounds like 'dyke' in their presence - and would feel awkward if you slipped up because of its historical slang usage against lesbians. And that would be regardless of any historical reason for a word sounding like that being used for an electrical tool - it still would feel awkward. If this is true, then I don't think we are talking about political correctness - but trying to be a better and more polite person instead. I think it would be sad for society for us stop making an effort to be better and more polite. I remember being in 5th grade in the 1970s and the teacher had us read out passages of Huckelberry Finn. Not one student, including myself, would read out the 'n' word and the teacher got so frustrated - saying that it was literature. No one still would say it even after his argument. I wasn't ashamed of being polite then and I'll never understand why people would want to use terms like 'politically correct' to avoid altering their language over time.
Welcome back Ron. Was missing your videos but glad you've been busy
Crazy busy lately.
That staple remover tool is a game changer,especially if you do a lot of panel changes/upgrades,remodel work.i own one and I absolutely love it!
Great job as always.
Totally agree!
The phrase “workman like manner” is now high praise on the jobsite.
I live in socal and socal Edison is the electric utility and disconnecting the service is normally done by the electrician as you do in new Jersey . The only difference Edison normally has a lock ring on the meter so you have to call them to remove it before you do the service and call them to put it back .
Nice job Ron.
Could use a MLO panel instead of a MBP indoors but I like the idea of not having to go outside to shut off all power. Could drill the garage floor and put the GR indoors, save having to patch the sidewalk.
I was worried that after tapping the panel between the studs that maybe the cover screws would not line up but worked out ok.
Thanks, Ron. An incredible way to do a job right the first time. You are a master!
Thats very nice of you. Thank
you!
Another great vid Ron, true professional
@@Claritin24 thanks!
Hey Ron, glad to see a new upload. Check out Arlington GC50 connectors for your #4 copper. I started using them on my services and they work perfect
Just looked those up. Yes, those look very helpful. I’m still getting used to the exterior service disconnects.
The staple shark is so awesome!! I’ve used it in so many tight spots it’s a staple in my pouch now! Great vid once again Ron!
Thank you!
Ron, I really really appreciate everything you do and I do follow you being Electrician myself. Just FYI you know the siding on a house is asbestos. I would have recommended for you to wear gloves. Stay blessed
Super interesting to hear actual accurate information worded differently than how I speak just because we are in different locations in the USA. It is helping my brain work through things better and I think it may help me explain things to customers better because of it. Thanks for the video!
Explaining to customers is very important and could mean the difference between getting the work or not getting the work done.
GREAT JOB! I liked the professionalism! I usually just use my multi-tool to cut through sheetrock close to wires... Your narration was great and also liked the service disconnect parts... That's awesome!
Hi Ron, it’s always Fun to watch your video’s.
Very Neat and clean work and I love the way u Teach. Thx
Love the longer videos Ron, thank you!
Glad you like them!
Another great video. I always look up the code references you give. Did a clean job. Hey back your van in so nothing walks out the street side.
I never work in bad neighborhoods.
Ron, As usual you can take pride in this installation. After watching your channel I'd change the way I do one thing that is starkly I would automatically correct other people's work that fell short of my standards. But, I've learned from you that then you take on that predecessors possibly poor or even problematic issues. So now I check with my customer pointing out the issue and asking to make any changes.
It’s never easy and once you touch it you own it. Someone else ran the circuit for the Tesla pedestal and they sleeved 6/2 NM through the conduit, in a wet location. Not my work but that could be problematic down the road.
I have a pet peeve - if you were doing my panel, I would absolutely request the neutral conductor be landed at the same location as the ungrounded conductor - aka - attach neutral on the neutral bus under the breaker. My reason is simple - should the home owner decide to use a GFCI or AFCI in the future; with PON panels, you simply move the neutral from the bar to the breaker. The other comment I have is to install the service entrance conductors before landing all the wires. Nobody is moving the big wires, so why put them on top of the wires that can potentially get moved. You do amazing work and I appreciate you videos - but this how I prefer to install panels as my focus is on future serviceability. Somewhat like engineering a car with the oil filter in some ungodly location that seemed convenient when the engine was built but has poor serviceability. Take care Ron and thanks again for everything.
GLAD TO SEE YA BACK RON THANKS SO MUCH ON THE TIPS AS YOU ARE INSTALLING VERY HELPFUL LEARN SOMETHING NEW EACH TIME I WATCH YOUR VIDEOS HAVE A GOOD WEEK AND BE SAFE
Very welcome
Thanks Ron, always interesting to see a Pro doing electrical work. I have a question about removing the old panel and all the circuit wires …. How do you identify each circuit so you can hook up the new breakers and identify each one on the panel inside lid? Tganks
Great video. Good job and nice work. Thank you for sharing.
Great workmanship, as always. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you for being a long-time subscriber. I feel like you thank me for sharing my knowledge in every video and I do sincerely appreciate your gratefulness. Awesome!
Beautiful work.
Thanks again for another informative video Ron. You are the man.
Thanks for taking the time to post this. New guys appreciate it
Love teaching the new guys!
Great work, Ron! Question: A lot of other RUclips Electricians talk about how important it is to Torque your lugs and screws to the proper setting. What's your opinion about using torque wrenches screwdrivers for your electrical work? Thanks!!
Excellent Job Ron!
Thank you!
correct me if I'm wrong didn't you say the rain head should be above the hook. Also can I bond a csst gas flex line to the water main instead of running all the way back to the panel thanks
thanks for the heart but I thought you would answer my questions
Excellent instructional video👍👍
The multiwire branch circuit at the beginning of your video was a violation because each wire was supposed to be on a different phase, right?
On a different leg, let's call it L1. The other leg is L2. This is a single-phase electrical service.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey Right right, that's what I meant, guess I was using the wrong terminology.
Another great video !
Why did you drive a an extra ground rod ? was that only to satisfy the inspector because you said they already had a ground rod installed but I figured maybe it's covered and he can't inspect so he would want another ground rod ? Let me know !
For multi wire branch circuits I would like to see a tag on the neutral to indicate it is part of a MWBC. If the neutral was ever disconnected while the hots were in use, 120VAC equipment could see 240VAC.
100% correct.
In the example that Ron is sharing the two ungrounded conductors are at the same potential since they are fed from a common lug in the panel. 210.4 does not apply since there is no voltage between these conductors. The larger issue here is that since both ungrounded conductors are protected by 20 amp breakers the neutral can carry the, in phase, current of both ungrounded conductors significantly over rating of the single neutral.
Nice job Ron. Glad to see ya back on. 👍
More to come!
A professional as always 👌
Thank you! Cheers!
Cool video Ron!!
Hi Ron, thank you for all the content. I'm an EC in the Seattle area. It's good to see how things are done in other parts of the country. Most of the jurisdictions over here would require GEC to be phased green. I usually purchase extra #6 Cu when doing my ground rods and use the leftover for my EGC on 200A upgrades. I like the way you do the panels. Who make those button connectors you used in the panel and do they make them for range cables.
Arlington
230.85(3) and 230.82(10) allow for the emergency disconnect and service disconnect to be in separate enclosures. That means the outside emergency disconnect does not need overcurrent protection, 3 wire may be run to the main panel, and neutrals and grounds do not need to be separated. In this case a main breaker would still be required in the main panel, but main breaker panels are cheaper than main lug anyway
I made it to 36 minutes lol. Damn inspectors!!!
Great job man! Keep up the good work.
I've often wondered why we don't put the grounding rod top connection in a waterproof box at least to protect it from corrosion, then you can bury it without any problems. Leave it open for the inspector to see then bury it.
Curious as to why you have a breaker in the panel as opposed to main lug panel seeing how there is a breaker outside as well.
Nice work, I like watching these sort of videos to see how people work, everyone is different and you can pick up certain tricks never seen before .
That’s the idea to help each other up the ladder, not kick out from under them.
Glad we got a new video Ron! Missed ya, do you use the same Allen keys when cutting in up top, or do you have a insulated tool you use
Thanks. Nice work.
I bet the guy hired someone to install that Tesla charger and they told them they couldn’t run it on that service so the guy called you. It’s interesting seeing how residential electric work is done. I used to do electrical work for AT&T at their cell cites which is mostly -48VDC but of course all the sites do have either a 200/400A main panel. Their standards are hardcore. It’s interesting seeing what the NEC let’s you do and how much of it would not fly with AT&T. (Example: no zip ties anywhere, you had to tie cables together with wax string, no romex, basically every electrical connection is lugged, every cable needs a very detailed dog tag on it, colored tape, heat shrink, etc…)
Great job Ron.......
Welcome back Ron! 👍👍
Thanks 👍
The only time the current will cancel each other on that neutral is if you use a 2pole breaker, with a multi wire branch circuit you can even push your voltage further away up to 50%.So it does has some benefits
It does have benefits but as noted in the video if you lose that - for whatever reason - the circuit becomes a series circuit and of course the tv or computer will be sacrificed while the table lamp from Target will be spared.
Did you not need to add a service outlet back below the new panel, or did the customer not want it anymore?
Ron, why didn't you put the main breaker on the bottom? You covered up a lot of branch circuit screws on the neutral bar, plus the ungrounded 4/0 take up alot of space, It all could of been avoided if you would of inverted the panel, main breaker on the bottom, That's why Eaton CSR or BW style main breaker turns on and off sideways.
what model / brand you using for whole house surge protector?
This is a plug on style by Eaton.
Finally, been waiting for a video
1st! Cup of good coffee on a Sunday afternoon with a good vid.
Glad I could be of some value. I just finished my second cup!
Do you have to ko seal in that hole top left?
Thanks, sir.
Hello, I’m in Bergenfield, north Jersey. Do you work up north or can you recommend an electrician to do the service upgrade?
Ron how you doing? I like you videos .i have aquarium,doesn’t the utility company suppose to de energize the service every time we do a service change?just curious do they let you do that in your state thanks Ron
@@Lucio.. here I need a permit and I’m on my own unless it’s an underground service and the meter enclosure needs to be changed out.
Hey Ron, have you done a smart panel upgrade or battery backup addition?
Not yet but I’m sure it’s coming.
awesome job Ron!!!!
Thanks Carl!
How much does this usually cost to do changing service from 100 to 200?
Nice work, Ron.
Many thanks!
Ron what brand of connectors are those? They go in pretty sweet the opposite way!
How much $ for the meter/main equipment? Looks good
Could you use a MLO panel or was the exterior just a disconnect switch ?
Electrician Ron do you happen to know what know what amperage a central vacuum runs on and what kind of outlet it uses let me know thank you.
It really depends on the nameplate data (voltage, amperage, wattage). It’ll include two of three.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey Thank you for letting me know and i will check the nameplate data sheet online thanks.
How can I find an apprenticeship? I'm in Jersey City
Great work welcome back. How do you learn to charge for a job like this ?
Time, materials, mark up, profit, and taxes.
What’s a good hourly to start with I’m starting up myself
Love the videos Ron let me know when your company is hiring haha!
Awesome thank you!!
Great video Ron. How do you feel about the square d homeline qwik grip 200 amp panel 80 circuit 40 space? Wanted to get your thoughts. Thanks.
I've installed them before and I wasn't impressed. It's only good for NM cables but if you have a few BX cables it does come with standard 1/2" and 3/4" knockouts. Good luck getting the panel cover on too. The mounting holes on the door NEVER line up with the holes on the enclosure. Last one I did I needed to use clamps attached back-to-back just to get the cover on. I'm not making that up either.
Rock on!
Can that exterior disconnect have a breaker for the Tesla charger so that it would not have to go into the interior panel or do they have one that would do that?
Yes, absolutely available but the utility may, or may not approve such exterior load center. JCPL around here does no longer approve that type of
The 4 new 12/2 Romex you terminated, how come you didn’t install Arc fault/ Gfi breakers what’ are the loads? They were added when you upgraded the service. So wouldn’t you have needed those??
Kitchen wiring.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey still need arc fault right?
NEC 210.12 A
So if the bonding is done on the outside like you did, is the outside panel considered the main disconnect or the emergency disconnect?
Both.
Love your videos!
Glad you like them!
great video
Thanks for the visit
Do you have a discription on those connectors for the romex?
Arlington model # NM94X
Please make the neutral wires longer as much as possible because the homeowner may want to install afci/gfci breakers with plug-in neutral feature.
Nah. Is that how you do YOUR panel upgrades?
I’m adding in some dual function breakers and have to use a splice. It’s technically correct but ugly as hell and I don’t like it. An extra 2 inches of neutral from buddy that wired it first time would have saved me the headache
Did you remove the main bonding jumper in the subpanel?
MBJ is located in the service disconnect to avoid a parallel path back to the source and prevent objectionable current flow.
@seancahill384 If you check 48:58 it looks like the green bonding screw is removed in the sub panel
Mr Ron. I’m currently watching your video. I have a question. Are you able to work in a job in Pennsylvania?
No thank you. Too far.
Even if they Uber or Lyft you over? No driving on your part??? I really love your work and your local
we can cut over here in ca
I just wired up a 230 air conditioner it uses 2 hot legs 20 amp 2 pole but no neutral. There's no neutral involved in this wiring. How does that work how does the current get back to the source with no neutral wire?
My 30 amp dryer has a spot for a neutral but this thing didn't what's the difference?
The two hots are running in opposite alternate phase. Being split phase the power never comes together at the same time. The power comes in one leg leaves on the other and switches. No neutral.
Simple. The air compressor is straight 240 volts. We call this a series circuit. The dryer is 120/ 240 volts. This requires the neutral and (2) hots that make up what’s known as a series/ parallel circuit. Hope this helps.
I know you can pull a hot off the dryer throw it on the bus bar and you'll run a 120...and succeed in never getting your clothes dry :p
I swear half the circuits in my house are multi wire branch circuits. The electrician who wired my addition loved them. I hear GE panels have the best support for Arc faults in MWBC. They don't require a neutral connector and you just handle tie them like normal breakers.
If it doesn’t require a neutral connection than it can’t monitor the circuit it’s supposed to be protecting. GE panels are crap in my experience.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I have yet to see any electrician say anything positive about ge panels. Was doing some searching and the new Siemens afcis don't use the neutral either. There must be something to it.
@@OnusofStrife, Hi what you are calling "no neutral" is actually referred to as "Plug-On-Neutral" by the manufacturer's. Instead of a separate "piggy tail" neutral wire coming off the P-o-N breaker they are designed with a neutral connector that snaps onto a P-o-N breaker panel designed with that purpose in mind to accept the neutral connector as the breaker is connected, thus eliminating the "piggy tail" wires running to the neutral bars in the panels for all the AFCI's and GFCI's
@@bobrub I thought I replied. But, GE and Newer Siemens Arc Faults ( post 2023 per Siemens ) allow you to land the circuit neutral on the neutral bar, they don't have to be made on the breaker, as they no longer use the neutral to monitor the circuit for arc faults.
I don’t see any arc faults or
Gfci breakers in that panel
Me either.
saying hello to my youtube teacher
Been awhile!
I've never been busier in my life. Work just doesn't stop.
Why the fifth jaw(r)?
Cus that's what the utility company requires.
What a terrible place for a breaker box. Good luck to the next guy trying to add new circuits in 😖
It’ll probably be me so it’s a good thing I know what I’m doing!
One way to help with that would be to have the panel surface mounted as opposed to inset in the wall cavity.i know when it's inset it looks *cleaner* and most homeowners want it in the wall cavity but I think surface mounted is more practical,especially if you are planning to add circuits in future.just my humble opinion.
Not sure who puts in a charging station, before they discover they need a service upgrade , maybe geek squad does them now😂…. I would have cut that 1” lb and brought it in where needed instead of working around and wasting time. Just my 2 cents. God bless!
That would have been a bad choice because if you nick the conductor cutting the pvc you’re putting in a free EVSE
@@electricianron_New_Jersey I have done it several times. The trick is with a rotational pipe/tubing cutter just scoring it enough to snap it by hand then clean it up for another LB etc… Any how You do great work .. Wish I could find 10 of You for my business 👍
I need service upgrade from 100a to 200a JCP&L. I didn’t find your email address from the description. Do you have an email address or maybe you can share part & labor cost? I’m from Wayne, NJ 07470. Thanks, great videos BTW.
Wayne is too far for me. Sorry.
Wow...no smart meter in NJ yet ? How are they going to jack the customer -- It's NJ....? 😂😂
They’ll get one now!
Dude that house has asbestos siding. If you cut through that which it appears you did... you can sue the owner since it wasn't disclosed to you.
I’ll look into it
@electricalron Google it.. I work in occupational health and safety. Hope it isn't.. but pretty confident.
@electricalron I may be cement fiber... they look similar.. those contain crystalline silica though which isn't good either if cutting
Before the term 'Politically Correct' came into common usage we still had the terms like Polite, Respectful, Considerate, and Dignity. These days it seems too easy for many people to dismiss modifying their language by claiming that doing so would be politically correct. But I don't hear people say that we shouldn't be polite, respectful, considerate, and show people dignity.
I assume that you would be fine doing work for customers if you found out they were lesbians. But I'd bet that you would make an effort to avoid speaking a word that sounds like 'dyke' in their presence - and would feel awkward if you slipped up because of its historical slang usage against lesbians. And that would be regardless of any historical reason for a word sounding like that being used for an electrical tool - it still would feel awkward. If this is true, then I don't think we are talking about political correctness - but trying to be a better and more polite person instead. I think it would be sad for society for us stop making an effort to be better and more polite.
I remember being in 5th grade in the 1970s and the teacher had us read out passages of Huckelberry Finn. Not one student, including myself, would read out the 'n' word and the teacher got so frustrated - saying that it was literature. No one still would say it even after his argument. I wasn't ashamed of being polite then and I'll never understand why people would want to use terms like 'politically correct' to avoid altering their language over time.
I know you are a pro but use gloves when touching the service wires. People make mistake when they are tired or distracted. Ans there are acts of God.
Lmfao if he was "pro" he would have thought to do this regardless. Unbelievable
Also, "God" doesn't exist. The dude just got lucky. Simple. Can't believe idiots like you exist
Yeah bro nice sediment and all but honestly i don't think this guy needs your advise man.
Why don't they amend the NEC and abolish the multi branch circuit
Nice work sir