Hello Stefan! great job! thanks for share it. I would change the voltages adaptations, i would change for steep down, include steep down mini 360 for arduino only. See you!
Bạn có thể giải thích cho tôi nguyên lý đo nhiệt độ của đầu sắt hàn không? Nó chỉ có hai dây cho cả nguồn điện và đo nhiệt độ. Tôi đã tìm kiếm qua nhiều tài nguyên nhưng vẫn không hiểu nó đo nhiệt độ như thế nào.
Hi. I personally used a 470nF with a 24V power supply and 1uf with 19V power supply on my last version of the soldering station, I found out that it depends wich voltage chose to use. So you should experiment a little bit and see which capacitance is working best for you but it has to be between 100nF and 1uF.
Hi. I'm not sure if it will work because the Hakko has the thermocouple separate from the heating element, on the T12 tips the thermocouple is in series with the heating element, so it uses only two points to power up the heating element and to measure the temperature.
yes u can, look of pin the thermocouple and heater in hakko, 2 pin for heater and 2 pin for thermocouple, just connected one pin thermocoupe and one pin heater,. in another pin u get series😂
@@consleqtconsleqt6454 bisa, cek datasheet punya T12 itu heater dan thermocouple dirangkai seri, kalo hakko/gordak dll seri 936 itu dirangkai terpisah. Makanya module kontroller T12 dan 936 itu gk sama. Cara modif seri nya jngn kebalik, salah satu kawat pemanas nya digabung langsung ke kutub negatif thermocouple jngn lupa di isolasi bakar, nanti tinggal ujung positif thermocouple dan satu kaki elemen pemanas yg dipake. Kalo kebalik pas solder diaktifkan akan langsung merah ujung e.
@@consleqtconsleqt6454 ada di tokopedia satu T12 kalo gk salah 32rb an saya dulu pernah beli, tp varian ujung nx terbatas. Nama toko nya "yogyaponsel” asal bantul
Hi, it may be multiple causes I can't tell for sure from here. First check if the connections from the tip is in the right way, assuming that you use T12 tips, those tips have polarity, check the pcb board for short circuits. If I remember correctly I had same problem when I contacted the wires from the tip wrong, hope this it will solve your problem.
Yes it works, I also used 1.3" display on my soldering stations. But you have to change in the code at line 175, you need to disable the 0.96" and activate the 1.3" or you can see my last video and download from there the code.
First of all you need an multimeter with temperature measurement or even better an dedicated thermometer for soldering iron for more precise calibration. Now you follow this steps. Setup Menu>Tip Setings>Calibrate Tip, now in the calibration method you'll have 3 steps, in each one of the steps it will be displayed diferite temperatures, and you have to enter the real temperature measured externally. For example in step one it will be displayed let's say 250 degrees, you measure the tip and set that temperature and press ok ( rotary encoder button ) and so on. Lastly make one more measurement of the tip to see if is calibrated correctly, and probably you still have a few degrees deviation but that's ok.
PCB file is not wrong, in the video I explained that at that time I didn't had an original t12 handle with ball switch, so I didn't include the ball switch connection in that version of the PCB. So the pcb file that I provided is a corrected version that includes that connection ( From pin D10 ), if someone is willing to make this soldering station will probably have a handle with a ball switch (tilt switch) and will need that connection. This PCB can be used as it is, you may use that connection or not, the soldering station will work just fine. Thanks for watching!
@@Truong-Dang-Jav Yes, the soldering station will enter in sleep mode automatically at a time wich you can set from the menu ( 5 min. or more) if is not used, and when you move the handle it detect the movement via the ball switch and will wake up the soldering station and bring it up to working temperature. Without the ball switch the soldering station will enter in sleep mode no matter if you use it or not because is not detecting any movement and to wake it up you have to press the button on the rotary encoder. For me is not a huge deal but I made a second version of it with a bit different pcb and most important I fixed the the problem with the temperature readings on the display, now is rock solid. I will post a video about it soon.
We need next 858 hot air gun controller with arduino ..🎉😊
I have a Hakko FM-2027 soldering iron handle and a T13-BC2 soldering tip. What's the output diagram for the temperature controller?
Hello Stefan! great job! thanks for share it. I would change the voltages adaptations, i would change for steep down, include steep down mini 360 for arduino only. See you!
Very excellent and professional❤❤
Thank you. Check out the V4 version, some problems solved and it looks much better.
Nice soldering kit 👍
Thanks 👍
Can i use holder t210?
Hi, nice job, I would like to know, please, what kind of SCHOTTKY Diode did you use at D1? Thanks.
Hallo sir. Can you make rework station or hot air gun. From arduino nano. Thanks
Hi, I did the circuit but I did not understand how to connect the soldering iron to the circuit itself, can you help me? Thanks.
Bạn có thể giải thích cho tôi nguyên lý đo nhiệt độ của đầu sắt hàn không? Nó chỉ có hai dây cho cả nguồn điện và đo nhiệt độ. Tôi đã tìm kiếm qua nhiều tài nguyên nhưng vẫn không hiểu nó đo nhiệt độ như thế nào.
Very good work
Sorry, I have now read the note for capacitor C13, I soldered a 10uF capacitor, okay or should I replace it with one between 100nF and 1uF? Thanks.
Hi. I personally used a 470nF with a 24V power supply and 1uf with 19V power supply on my last version of the soldering station, I found out that it depends wich voltage chose to use. So you should experiment a little bit and see which capacitance is working best for you but it has to be between 100nF and 1uF.
@@HMProjects I would like to know, please, what kind of SCHOTTKY Diode did you use at D1
@@raffaelebarlotti9017 I used 1N5819.
@@HMProjects Thanks!
Hello there,
Do I have to use T12 in this circuit? I have a Hakko 907 ceramic heater. Can I use this heater in this circuit?
Hi. I'm not sure if it will work because the Hakko has the thermocouple separate from the heating element, on the T12 tips the thermocouple is in series with the heating element, so it uses only two points to power up the heating element and to measure the temperature.
yes u can, look of pin the thermocouple and heater in hakko, 2 pin for heater and 2 pin for thermocouple, just connected one pin thermocoupe and one pin heater,. in another pin u get series😂
@@TheFandiahmad memang bisa heater+thermocouple diseri brow....? soalnya susah cari t12 di indo.. kebanyakan 936... sudah dcoba kah...?
@@consleqtconsleqt6454 bisa, cek datasheet punya T12 itu heater dan thermocouple dirangkai seri, kalo hakko/gordak dll seri 936 itu dirangkai terpisah. Makanya module kontroller T12 dan 936 itu gk sama. Cara modif seri nya jngn kebalik, salah satu kawat pemanas nya digabung langsung ke kutub negatif thermocouple jngn lupa di isolasi bakar, nanti tinggal ujung positif thermocouple dan satu kaki elemen pemanas yg dipake. Kalo kebalik pas solder diaktifkan akan langsung merah ujung e.
@@consleqtconsleqt6454 ada di tokopedia satu T12 kalo gk salah 32rb an saya dulu pernah beli, tp varian ujung nx terbatas. Nama toko nya "yogyaponsel” asal bantul
hii bro...why the display still error even already plug the solder, temp still zero, & the mosfet is over heating? whats the problem?
Hi, it may be multiple causes I can't tell for sure from here. First check if the connections from the tip is in the right way, assuming that you use T12 tips, those tips have polarity, check the pcb board for short circuits. If I remember correctly I had same problem when I contacted the wires from the tip wrong, hope this it will solve your problem.
Excuse me if I still bother you, can it also work with the 1.3 "OLED display?
Yes it works, I also used 1.3" display on my soldering stations. But you have to change in the code at line 175, you need to disable the 0.96" and activate the 1.3" or you can see my last video and download from there the code.
I mean it will work without any modifications in the code but the image will be displayed a bit on the left.
Thank you, you are very kind and helpful! Could you send me the link of your latest video so that I can download the code?
🙏🙏🙋
i download the scematic and the pcb and i fix the pcb but i did it wrong, because the pcb need to be mirrored
Arduino code link give
How can I calibrate?
First of all you need an multimeter with temperature measurement or even better an dedicated thermometer for soldering iron for more precise calibration. Now you follow this steps. Setup Menu>Tip Setings>Calibrate Tip, now in the calibration method you'll have 3 steps, in each one of the steps it will be displayed diferite temperatures, and you have to enter the real temperature measured externally. For example in step one it will be displayed let's say 250 degrees, you measure the tip and set that temperature and press ok ( rotary encoder button ) and so on. Lastly make one more measurement of the tip to see if is calibrated correctly, and probably you still have a few degrees deviation but that's ok.
@@HMProjects thanks man for quick reply
I understood and solved the problem
Thanks 👍👍
the pcb file is wrong bro
PCB file is not wrong, in the video I explained that at that time I didn't had an original t12 handle with ball switch, so I didn't include the ball switch connection in that version of the PCB. So the pcb file that I provided is a corrected version that includes that connection ( From pin D10 ), if someone is willing to make this soldering station will probably have a handle with a ball switch (tilt switch) and will need that connection. This PCB can be used as it is, you may use that connection or not, the soldering station will work just fine. Thanks for watching!
@@HMProjects pin D10 used to hook the switch ?
@@Truong-Dang-Jav Yes, the soldering station will enter in sleep mode automatically at a time wich you can set from the menu ( 5 min. or more) if is not used, and when you move the handle it detect the movement via the ball switch and will wake up the soldering station and bring it up to working temperature. Without the ball switch the soldering station will enter in sleep mode no matter if you use it or not because is not detecting any movement and to wake it up you have to press the button on the rotary encoder. For me is not a huge deal but I made a second version of it with a bit different pcb and most important I fixed the the problem with the temperature readings on the display, now is rock solid. I will post a video about it soon.
Many change the display readings and irritate the eyes!
I already fix this problem and I made a new pcb design for this soldering station. I will post a video about it soon.