Free heating fuel but it's illegal - £120 8kw Diesel parking heater review from VEVOR
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
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Watch Joshua De lisle AWCB walk you through the creation process with his welded and hand forged works of Art and Luxury items.
In this episode we review the 12V 8KW Diesel Air Heater For RV Trucks (With Blue LCD Display) by VEVOR, also known as a parking heater or multi fuel oil heater. These are ideal for tiny houses, van life and workshops. We will explore how efficient these are to run and the use of free fuels such as biofuel and waste oil.
!!PLEASE READ BEFORE COMMENTING!!
I've done a follow up video as I understand now that it's impossible to be 8kw as diesel doesn't contain that much energy in the 350ml that I tested. So I'll conduct a new experiment to calculate the actual heat output. I'll also be testing how much electricity these consume at different Hz and also use the exhaust to boil water. watch here: • £0.03 per kWh heater m...
Uk waste oil burner law article:
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!!PLEASE READ BEFORE COMMENTING!!
I've done a follow up video as I understand now that it's impossible to be 8kw as diesel doesn't contain that much energy in the 350ml that I tested. So I've conduct a new experiment to calculate the actual heat output. I've also be testing how much electricity these consume at different Hz and also use the exhaust to boil water. Please let me know if there is anything else you would like to see tested in the future videos.
Watch the follow up here: ruclips.net/video/4tiSEGO6pYI/видео.html
Thank you
Cheers J
You'll probably find it's more like 4 to 5kW - some of them are even smaller. The actual 2kW ones, sold as such, have a lower rate pump.
I don't think any of the cheap ones are a genuine 8kW, that's all bullchit.
Please do the followup 😉
@@TheManFrayBentos yes this is what I'm now discovering... Cheers J
YOU SHOULD PUT THIS IN THE DESC RIPTION AT THE TOP
@@DICEGEORGE good idea. Thank you. Cheers J
I'm in the States & use a diesel heater to heat my workshop. I found that it runs on diesel, kerosene, and Type A Jet fuel but I haven't tried biofuel yet. Kerosene is expensive here and diesel is $4.89 a gallon so I go to a nearby small airfield and buy 10 gallons of Type A Jet fuel for only $3.80 a gallon. The only hitch is that the nozzle of an aircraft self-serve pump won't fit into a standard fuel jug opening so I had to buy two 5 gallon wide-mouth fuel jugs which have a large enough opening. A company named U-Jug makes them. In short, burning Type A in these heaters is a lot less expensive than using diesel fuel or kerosene. I haven't bothered to measure it but I think I get a longer burn on a gallon of Type A than I do on diesel fuel.
Thank you. That's great information. Kerosene was much cheaper here if you buy in bulk. 1000ltr used to be £400 not long ago but it shot up to £1200. Cheers J
Spend hundreds of dollars to save a few dollars. 😂
@@kenttegneskog Pffft, what a silly & uninformed supposition. I bought my cheap Chinese diesel heater for only $125 (USD). I previously heated my shop with a propane heater & electric heat. The diesel heater was not only much less costly to purchase but is much cheaper & efficient to operate. My fuel/heating cost for a winter season is about $40. A wood stove might be less costly but requires a lot of time & labor to process wood, maintain it, and dedicate space to properly store the wood. Which method do you use & what did it cost?
@@kst357 i meant if u only spending 40 pity dollar on the winter, but probably spending same in gas to get to the airfield and back, AND it’s illegal. Just to cut the cost from 55dollar to 40dollar
You said it self u only heat cost is 40dollar thats 11 gallon jet fuel
Couple of suggestions from cold wintery Finland: Calculate the price comparison calculations via the thermal energy of diesel also. 350ml an hour is not 8kW - even at 100% effienciency. More like half of it. Also you have losses (exhaust, which you could utilize. Also consider taking air to burn from outside as now you are drawing cold air into the room for the unit to burn (this depends on your needs to ventilate but especially true if you have a ventilation system with heat re-capturing (heat exchanger between the hot-out and cold-in, like we have in the cold countries). Last thing is to insulate that gap under the sheet metal with some fire proof rock/glass wool. Now you have an unisulated spot there.... Or you could run the exhaust inside a long vent tube in and have your fresh air already preheated.
Correct, when you do the math it's a little over 5 and the 5 kw they sell is more like 3.5
@JoshuaDeLisle. reporting for spam
Diesel is easy to work out - it contains 10kWh per litre
If he used 350ml in one hour - the machine was producing, *in total*, 3.5kWatts
Of which easily half was going out through the exhaust.
Just goes to show you don't need much heat energy to warm up a given space - if it's reasonably well-insulated and not draughty.
A modest paraffin (kerosene) heater would do instead. No noise. No electrics needed and 100% heat output from similarly energy-dense fuel. Kerosene presently priced at about half the quoted price of red diesel.
Small greenhouse heaters can be had for about £30 each
Depending on room size (do check this) but in the UK, if the thing is rated at 5kW or less (500ml consumption per hour) you don't need a flue but get a carbon monoxide alarm anyway. Same applies to any fuel, natural gas, butane or propane.
And the joy of the greenhouse heater is instant set-up and portability
@@peterbetts8740 Are paraffin heaters safe to use in a resident setting? Those used to be popular in the old days before modern central heating didn't they. You hear horror stories about people dying from carbon monoxide poisoning from falling asleep with one of those running in the same room either due to them being defective or no proper ventilation for the fumes..like you said though it comes down to having proper ventilation and a good carbon monoxide alarm detector. I expect modern paraffin heaters with technology built in are a lot safer than the old ones of the 1950's-1970's era.
I used to work for a company which designed and manufactured carbon monoxide detection, measurement and alarm devices for industrial use but I didn't have much involvement in that side of their business. We used to sell a lot of them to breweries around the world I remember though!
@@peterbetts8740 Agreed. Using mains gas in the UK is nearly 3 times cheaper per Kw/h than using red diesel. Also remember, it doesn't take much energy to heat up air. The problem is, the walls, the floor and all the furniture and items are cold and will slowly absorb heat energy, so as soon as you turn off the heater, the temperature will drop rapidly. The question is, how long does it take to heat up the room and all the items in it. I'm sure it's good for workshops, but not really practical for domestic homes.
I lived in Alaska few years ago these little “Japanese stoves” we called them, were used everywhere and in everything cabins, boats, work shops, man caves… toyo stoves… even houses. great channel!
Can confirm, Toyo stoves are fantastic.
about the earky to mid 80s kerosene heaters from japan toyo was 1 brand were popular to heat or supplement heat
but k1 kerosene was not too expensive. but today i have only seen buying by gallon or 5 gallon cans at rediculious prices. bear in mindim not in the cold part og the states dont know if stations sell by gallon to your own containers
anymore my place stop selling before i moved in 95
18:20. 66. Followed by 33. Cool ...... hoodwankurrrr
@@jar407 Kerosene price today in Britain is £0.82 per litre. That works out to be £3.73 per Imperial gallon.
You can do your own maths for the US since you use smaller gallons and dollars...! 😃
Yes I live in Japan and I thought it looked like this. Except they don't exhaust outside, so you need to open a window from time to time.
In very cold areas where heat pumps struggle, they're used everywhere. In Tokyo a bit less as it's not that cold. But we still have trucks going around selling kerosene with a little music like an ice cream truck lol.
I am an old Volkswagen mechanic who in the '70s worked on many Eberspacher gasoline heaters factory installed into all Volkswagen Type 4 vehicles. They were in every Type 4 and the early 73 Thing vehicles. This design looks a great deal like what they made with a pulse fuel pump that was timed to the ventilating speed. Their units had both a spark and glow plug for intitial ignition. They ran on gasoline, not diesel. Your high power consumption on startup is from the glow plug.
I had a gasoline heater in my 1967 VW micro bus.(van) smelled like hell.
In America, we had US made Southwind heaters, which I also installed in new VW vans in 1969. They also were a little more dangerous due to gasoline leakage fires@@c50ge
Fitted one to my house !
There was an 8" extractor fan in the kitchen I could temporarily remove to fit two 4" pipes through to the inside of the house, the heater itself is mounted on the outside which is under cover from a canopy we have at the back. Have it on setting number 4 but sometimes as low as 2 with the fan speed increased.
Powered using a 12v car battery topped up regularly with a small 3 stage charger. It will run on battery for around 7-10 hours but it does use a fair few amps when the glow plug is lit on startup, after that it doesn't pull much at all...
Downstairs gets toasty in no time but takes about an hour or so before you can feel the heat upstairs. Came with 10ltr tank and having to use normal diesel but I do get about a week out of it for an average of 5-6 hours a night....
Usually pay £15-£18 to refill every week depending how much is left in the tank.
I will do a video if anyone interested....
👍 fight back against big government, big oil and big tax man. Try running on heating oil + a little bit of veg or motor oil (10% mix roughly) should be way cheaper as you can get heating oil for about 90ppl. This is how I know some folks run old diesel motors mix the oil to lubricate the kero but maybe the machines don’t even need the lubricant? Idk how they work
@@ElliHarper An oil boiler basically works the same way, but bigger. Normally they have electrodes with an arc as ignition, but pump wise I doubt there is any difference, so you would think kerosene should be fine. Need a guinea pig 😅
Im in on the vid mate ..
I would be interested in the video. Thanks.
@@ElliHarper wrong the pump is a spring /electromagnet type cannot remember the name . i use one for heating and if using kerosine i add about 50ml of 2stroke oil per tank and that stops pump seizing up. p
I have one in my workshop (converted garage) it's away from the house so solar powered, using recycle laptop batteries. After 20 minutes it's very toasty, I picked the bare bones one and got it for under £50. They are a great bit of kit. Great video, keep them comming.
Thank you Matt. Cheers J
That’s awesome how do you get those to work for a solar system ?
Is your workshop off grid? - I’m very interested in that, and your recycled laptop batteries (what voltage are you using to power the control unit of the diesel heater?)
Hi all. Just too answer some questions. Yep totally off grid, 2 * 230w panels on roof feeding into an epever 30A controller that charges 560 (18650) reclaimed laptop batteries in a 7 series 80 parallel config. So aprox 28V 160A this feeds lights, radio and chargers with d.c and a 240v inverter when required. The heater runs on a 24V to 12V 30A adapter with a max draw off 10A for say 10 minutes for glow plugs, that drops to about 2A when running.
@@starbase69 nice one Matt, sounds like a pretty good set up and I guess you are fortunate to have a source of used laptop batteries for you home made “power wall” Did you design and build the system yourself? If so I hope you are using that skill in your day job too! Thanks for sharing mate! 👍
I know the exhaust goes outside but I think it would be extremely wise to have a carbon monoxide alarm anywhere you’re using one of these, in case of exhaust leaks
@@zeusdagmire6185 a radon detector?? they arent actually a thing. to detect radon requires the placing of 2 alpha particle sensitive plastic discs in a building for 3 months which then has to be sent away to be analysed.
well that was an interesting dive into snakeoil devices. talk about junk. they are geiger counters masquerading as 'radon detectors' if its detecting alpha particles its detecting all ionising radiation. thats why tests kits arent a geiger counter. not to mention that they dont take other sources of radiation into account.
@@joylessdave what are you saying ? a carbon monoxide alarm wont work if it detects the exhaust from the heater ? that you need a radon detector ? naaaaa
It’s not if, it’s when
@@joylessdave who said anything about radon detectors?
Got one of these. The tank above the burner is bloody dangerous in my opinion. I had a diesel leak from the hose going from the tank, there was diesel everywhere and a fog of white diesel smoke coming through the air ducts because the leaked diesel had been pulled in to the air inlet. There was also a lot of diesel around the exhaust, dripping on to it and smoking something fierce. I've since put the tank and the pump outside the casing, as well as added a filter. It's now much safer, and I can fill up the tank while the heater is running without worrying about spilling. It manages around 5KW I'd say, and it burns clean and is relatively quiet. With the modifications, I am now quite happy with it.
I've been using the exact heater for over 4 years now and it has worked flawlessly. I do however use Clear diesel as I found that the diesel fuel with dye in it tends to Coke up the glow plug which will either require cleaning or replacement, which is no big deal. By the way yes it does require a special socket to remove the glow plug which is also readily available at very little cost. I have three of these particular heaters one of which I use in the house which is mounted on a small inexpensive Harbor Freight welding cart. The welding cart holds the battery, the heater and a solar charge controller connected to a small solar panel which makes this a totally self-contained unit. One of the other units I have I use for a small hunting cabin, and the third I use to heat my garage. I highly recommend these to everyone I speak with and they are quite popular as well with my friends that have ice fishing shanties. I don't use mine 24 hours a day or when sleeping but I do use it all day long and with a full tank of fuel it will easily Heat my 700 square foot cabin using only about one tank every 2 days when set on some of the lower settings, " on two or three ". they're absolutely amazing and I highly recommend them to anyone! Just be sure to properly install the exhaust, that's the most critical item, plus I found the hose clamps they come with to be of very poor quality and I highly recommend that you replace the exhaust pipe one for a high quality all stainless heavy duty Marine type hose clamp and you'll have no issues with exhaust smell or exhaust leakage.
Red diesel is road diesel with a dye added. They are absolutely identical products in every way.
I absolutely love my diesel heater. We spent a lot of time in the woods camping and it's opened up the winter season so we could be really comfortable without having to worry about propane or anything else
If you build a setup that will cool the exhaust gas to below 100C, you'll get another boost in efficiency, since you're burning hydrocarbons. Part of the exhaust will be steam. If you make that condense out, you get all the energy from turning water into steam back. Watch out: the other exhaust main component is CO2, which forms a minor acid with water. You'll need stainless steel or ceramic piping for the exhaust, otherwise it will corrode really quickly.
The air intake hose is there to go outside of the building so that the air that you burn is not the heated air from inside causing a draft of cold air to come into the building to replace it. That burner uses a lot of air so in a small shop like yours, the cold air coming in will be quite noticeable. The heater I had came with a wall vent that the exhaust went out of the building though a metal tube that was surrounded by another tube. The exhaust went out the center tube and the air for the burner came into the building through outer tube preheating the combustion air and keeping the wall from getting heated by the exhaust.
If the exhaust pipe is 300 C, you could easily run it through a heat exchanger a recover some heat for hot water or pre heating water for a steam engine - or just have another air to air heater going so you're using the exhaust heat, put a small pc fan on it to get flow.
Yep, exactly what i was thinking. 12v 120 or 140mm computer fan mounted underneath blowing air onto the exhaust both adds even more heat into the room and will drop exhaust temps i'm betting a fair bit to make that safer as well
My thoughts EXACTLY!
I used to put a cover down the front of the radiator, in real,cold winters, it worked a treat for less cooling of the hot water circulation. Got de-mist faster too. But must be removed in warmer times
Lol I just forwarded this vid and said basically the same when I sent it on to my siblings!
Except I had it a lil more as a 'closed' system with a cooler coil ran out into the cold and coming back to a coil on the exhaust before steaming again
if you want to spend even less on heat there are a couple things you can do. 1 you can scavenge more heat from the exhaust before dumping it outside the wall. and 2 you can plumb the intake so it takes air from outside, because as it is since it's intaking air from inside and then exhausting it outside it must necessarily be sucking cold outside air into the workshop through what little gaps there are in the walls.
it's true but a workshop is so drafty typically the difference is....negligible unless your space is very air tight. Intake should be outside of course when possible.
cold air burns more efficiently because it has more oxygen.
the exhaust pipe is hot. Really hot. It can go lower down the wall before venting outside.
Also, slanting the pipe at an angle will help the ambient air capture more of its heat.
True. But make sure the exhaust fumes aren't sucked back up the air inlet
A coaxial pipe would do the job! The exhaust pre heats the intake to avoid running freezing air in the combustion chamber. And only one hole going outside.
Few points to add.
1. Use a car battery and a 5A plus charger.
2.Check the exhaust connection for dangerous CO leakage and CO monitor is a must.
3. Keep a longer section of the exhaust pipe inside can help efficiency and put the metal plate in less thermal stress
A correction to 1: do not charge a car battery inside. It emits hydrogen while charging. Use VRLA battery: AGM or GEL.
Use an old computer power supply. Easier to manage and doesn't produce dangerous gases.
1. Use a 240v to 12v inverter power supply instead of a car battery.
@Roads To Nowhere it does have enough amps, use an used server power supply from HP or dell, it produces 12.3-12.6 volts, 63-90 amps, search DIY power supply, you have to put a resistor on the pinout for it to turn on and solder your own power leads, if series connecting you must learn to properly float the ground with plastic washers/ bolts/ , they cost $20 each on a popular site you can buy it from. learn something new
#3 is mission critical for indoor, permanent heating...
One of the most incredible videos I’ve ever seen. You knock this puppy out of the park. I purchased one of these and was looking to gain more information. You definitely hit most everything needed. Excellent job my friend.
Thank you so much. cheers J
For the internal part of the exhaust pipe you may craft a custom heatsink with a 12V-PC-fan to convert even the excess exhaust heat to
additional energy. This may make the machine even more efficient. Or you may craft your own pipe and lay it through the room.
Does create some custom work but it will make it even cheaper over long distance and more efficient and environmentally friendly. AtL. a bit.
hmn, i wonder if it could be used on a fuel source such as hydrogen and also in the process of it being used, it creates it's own hydrogen effectively creating an nearly endless supply of hydrogen to power the entire house.
and provide free electricity for life.
there is another guy who does this, but his method is only while using solar power to create his hydrogen, he collects 3 months out of the year into his tanks and the rest is used through out the year, he's been off the grid for nearly 30 years on his hydrogen system and hasn't needed to pay a electric bill because he reuses that created hydrogen to power his house.
Truckers been using these for years for their cab heater when they sleep and it also had a block heater circulating your coolant to your engine. You could always run a couple radiators with fans across the house and put the radiator hoses through the wall so you could heat your living room Den and also your bedrooms separate with their doors closed. You have to check the different kinds available. Google up some truck shows and start visiting them see what is on the market these days. Every major city has one Salt Lake Anaheim Dallas. BTW the reason red diesel is red is they just put a dye in it to turn your fuel filters red and they can see it in the tank at a Port of Entry. If they see red dye then you get a big fine for tax evasion. Because that's Road tax. The red diesel does not get Road tax.
In Germany it's two different things. The red stuff is named Heizöl what translates heating oil and you are allowed to use it in tractors on a Farm. The stuff in trucks is named Diesel like in USA it seems. Technically it's the same stuff only in red. Heizöl is 1,23€ per Liter(for 100l ) Diesel 1,74€ per Liter (19.12.22) 1gallon=3,75l
@@Harrington2323 it's the same in the US also. We call regular road fuel #1 diesel and off road/farm use is called #2 diesel which is dyed red. The only difference is the red dye and that you're paying a "road tax" on the #1.
Diesel#2 is regular diesel, Diesel#1 is cold weather diesel. Red Diesel is called dyed diesel or off-road diesel at the pump.
I run a simple heater like this all winter on my homestead in the middle of nowhere. They're golden. Easy to tune up when needed and they produce such good dry heat. Important when you live in a van. 🤠
What exact model have you been using please ? Any link ? Thank you
I thought you could lengthen the exhaust pipe before it goes outside , that way you will use a lot of the 200 degree exhaust that is heating the pipe to warm the workshop.
i was thinking of the idea of an old car intercooler, send the exhaust through that with a fan blowing through, extract even more heat...
My uncle made a spiral of exhaust pipe above his woodstove. It is indeed a waste to just let al that hot air flow out
I do just this... A small fan blows across the hot exhaust.. remember to do a dozen minutes of as hot as you can go...!!2orksmbrilliant.
one my friend has the same heater and he connected exhaust pipe to an house type water radiator. it gets pretty hot as well from the exhaust giving like a lot of extra heat and even a place to dry hat and gloves. But it cant be too long and big, as then heater will throw error about exhaust not being able to leave.
@@jamiebanyard1792 What an excellent idea using an intercooler .
6m x 3m x 2.5 tall. You are the only YT smith who works in a space smaller than the one I have for my hobby level tinkering. Serious respect for the ability, never mind the economic saving on heating.
Thank you so much. its a bit tight with the projects I have going on but it certainly has saved me money working in small spaces. cheers J
The intake air filter is to keep bugs from entering and plugging a small hole within the burn chamber. It will not run if bugs get in there. Also a good idea to change the fuel line to the small, white hard line like Espar uses.
You might consider running an inlet air duct from outside. Cold air being pulled into the room from outside through small air gaps due to the negative pressure created by the heater pumping its exhaust to outside can really hurt your heating efficiency. Just make sure your air inlet is far away from any exhaust pipes. Even better, would be to setup a heat exchanger where the intake air is pre-warmed by the heater's exhaust.
An external air intake for the combustion mixture may improve combustion too as the colder air is denser.
also it consumes oxygen in the room , so...
@@e.p.4767 also it consume oxygen in the room👍How do you say carbon monoxide poisoning, CO?
@@tech29X If air is being pulled out of the room, fresh air is coming in. Intake does not produce any gases. Human respiration does not produce CO. There is no safety issue with not having an external inlet. If the room is so well sealed that you'd actually run out of air, you breathing would cause the same problem and the issue is with the design of the room, not the heater.
@@Teth47 Good thing if air is being pulled in from outside; "Carbon monoxide (CO), a low molecular weight gas, is a ubiquitous environmental product of organic combustion, which is also produced endogenously in the body, as the byproduct of heme metabolism."
I have one similar in my van that i live in when working away from home. Its plumbed straight into my fuel tank, which obviously makes it a bit more expensive to run but when its sub zero outside and its toasty in the van its worth it.
As a side note, look up the water heaters you can add to these, absolutely brilliant
can you tell me more about the water heater? I cant find it online
Finally no nonsense channel very straight forward breath of fresh air
No gimmicks cheers
Fitted one in my house 2 years ago and ran the exhaust through an old empty central heating radiator to capture all that waste heat and it works more efficiently, Radiator gets really hot too, I recon u get 20 percent plus more heat that way also run on domestic heating oil (kerosene) @ 56 pence a litre
I used one in my shop north of Fairbanks, Alaska. Worked like a champ. Kept the shop warm even at -40f.
Fun fact: at -40 you don't have to say F because it's also -40C. It's the only temperature that's the same on both systems :)
Sorry but that was tongue in cheek, I've actually met 3 people who've been at temps. that low, one in BC and 2 in Antarctica.
This is a great video, and you obviously have the right attitude about helping people improve their situation in these increasingly hard times. I think you did a great job here, and I just wanted to add something that might help someone understand something that could be life saving. because of the trade I worked in (and still do in a less formal capacity due to age and health) I have spent a fair bit of time around many many different versions of this basic design of heater.
Edit: as another commenter says further down, CO is actually neutrally buoyant in air, it's CO2 that sinks. Still, all the rest applies, and of course CO2 is toxic and also a product of combustion. All I can say is my exams were many years ago, and it seems I need to double check my terrible memory more often. To the commenter that brought this to my attention, thanks again, mits important that info like this be accurate, and I appreciate the reminder.
As a journeyman pipe fitter, gasfitter and plumber, which is the set of trades in Canada which deal with gas fired appliances, I want to offer an EXTREMELY serious warning. Do NOT operate units like this without a carbon monoxide detector, plus a backup carbon monoxide detector installed in the room. I would suggest one near the unit, and above it, which will detect any exhaust gasses escaping the heat exchanger warm enough to rise (carbon monoxide normally sinks, but hot gases rise), place the other one at least a foot below the level at which the mouth and nose of any person in the room would be located. So if its a sleeping room, have the second detector near the floor. A workshop with a pit of any kind should have a third detector down in the pit. If in a room heated by a gas fired appliance you start to feel your eyes burn or develop a headache, shut the heater off and leave the room IMMEDIATLY. Look up the symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning and understand them, and explain them to those others who use thew room as well.
Cheap heat exchangers tend to corrode, and bad welds sometimes crack, either of these will result in the products of combustion entering your breathing air, which is extremely dangerous. Heaters like this are cheap partly because they are less well constructed, so make sure there are no holes or cracks in the heat exchanger when it arrives, and inspect it carefully OFTEN to make sure heat cycling has not created any cracks.
Properly used by someone who takes adequate provisions for carbon monoxide detection, understands how to maintain good combustion in the burner, and who inspects for wear and damage is fairly safe, but there is a greater risk using a product like this than from alternatives. I personally would use a heater like this because I am well versed in how they might fail, and how to be safe, but if you are not properly informed, BECOME INFORMED before you install something like this. .ot's of people use them all over the world, a similar system heats my camper, and truckers often use them in their sleeper cabs. it can reach -50 here for weeks, and they work great.
Oh and lastly:
If you have pets, understand that since they breath so close to the ground, they will die of poisoning before normal detectors that install above the floor may even ring the alarm, so ensure ground level detection of carbon monoxide gas exists if you have a shop cat. The only carbon monoxide fatality I knew personally was a friends very beloved dog, who slept curled up near a heater like this one. It was very sad, my friend had never thought about the possibility that the first person to start breathing CO would be his dog, and had his detectors mounted in places that made sense for people in a workshop, but not a wheezy old bulldog that slept on a cushion in the warmest part of the shop. It might not be just you that you need to protect.
Again, GREAT video, great channel in fact, keep up the great work, you have a subscriber in me.
Thank you so much. I'll be sure to include this information in the follow up video. Cheers J
Good point Charles. Nice to read lengthy comments written by people WHO CARE!!
@@joshuadelisle Thanks for letting me know you sw it, have you thought of doing a video on inspecting and testing various sorts of machinery, or one on potential failure modes and risks? Maybe you already have, I haven't had toime to really run through your content. Anyway, hope things are going well for you over there in the isles.
I've got a loan to get solar panels on, but that doesn't help regarding heating
I've got someone to do an air tightness test for me, to see exactly where I'm leaking air, in order to help remedy where I'm leaking air. The idea is to make it as air tight as possible, and then save up for an MVHR
I essentially want to use PassivHaus principles but not necessarily going full PassivHaus because at some point, you get diminishing returns
The biggest take aways from the institute for me are :
Air tightness
Add MVHR
Maybe upgrade Windows and doors
Upside radiators for a heat pump
could i just get a sacrificial canary and leave it near the unit ?
Excellent Vevor heater demo video. Heartily recommend buying separate heater for safety reasons, not the All-in-one, because you can mount the heater sideways (glow plug up) and exhaust directly thru the wall. This eliminates the theoretical risk of CO (Carbon Monoxide) leak from the flex exhaust line, which in these type of kits is not necessarily the best, nor is the clamp fit perfect. Of course, CO can still leak around the orange glow plug silicone cover, but one less thing to worry about.
Would love to see you engineer/demo one of the rare versions of this heater that heats both air AND water.
Great for RV (or even house) water heater preheat. There are only a couple of them out there, Webasto clones or modified air heater exchangers.
Never seen one before, in Australia there is so much wood and everyone is somewhat glad when it gets colder and frosty, I remember running around as a kids on frost in the morning in Canberra, horrible place.
I could imagine. Cheers J
I've had one of these for a couple of years now and run it on heating oil at about 80p ltr. Mine has four small vents on the front with ample vent pipe to cut and I have pointed the air flow in different directions with one pipe bent round and pointed on the hot exhaust underneath. I have also mounted my unit slightly higher and extended the exhaust giving me more hot pipe inside with the air blowing over it. The only negative is it's noisy on full chat. Good video.
..for noise mount outside in an enclosure and pipe the hot air through the wall, much less noise and no danger from exhaust leakage. Power goes through the wall as well as the controller inside the workshop. Needs to be turned on a few times every month even in summer. The fuel pump is the weak point so buy spares, you’ll need them
before the exhaust fumes go outside, direct them through an old radiator
in this way, the heat from the exhaust gas is also used for heating
this is a buddy he made it: ruclips.net/video/IuKskfzBmOk/видео.html
Thank you, I've actully started experimenting using the exhuast to heat water and only costed me £12 of parts so far. cheers J
Nice one 👍
@@joshuadelisle just keep in mind there is a max 2 meter exhaust travel allowance with a max of 270 deg bends along that 2 meters of exhaust pipe. If you go longer or have more bends (like 4x 90s) the unit will start to suffer in performance. As well, these burners need to be run hot every so often to help keep carbon and coke buildup to a min, more so if burning waste oil. Most of the criticism that waste oil doesn't work is from people who don't do this. The fun part is you can try different blends of oil/diesel/gas even brake fluid with these heaters and get good results.
@@kwakman99 thank you ill keep that in mind. Cheers J
I think the intake tube filter/muffler is supposed to balance the intake exhaust to help with an efficient burn. I know in boat installs they say to match the length of intake to the exhaust.
I'm exactly that a boat builder and I fitted these for years too. You are correct but the full story is that in boat applications the runs are sometimes huge so you need rigid type fuel lines so there's no expansion in them and you need to know how to programme the hidden settings for fan voltage and AFR so you can then dial the unit in so the burner temp is perfect 167deg with 20deg ambient intake and 14:1 AFR and if its not 20deg at the time you need to do your maths and suit it to your ambient temp to get it running perfect. Typically on boats the fueling needs messed about with the most and it's always adding to the pump frequency so they burn more fuel in general. In a garage or whatever if I had a larger one (the cheap copy 8kw are really a 5kw) you can get away with leaning them out a bit to save fuel as long as you know its likely to go through plugs a wee bit quicker.
its for noise reduction
Great job. I just purchased the Ecoflo ultra. Financed of course. Just wrapping up my first test on my fridge. 6 kwh ran it for 54 hours. Next test 2 refrigerators & upright freeze. I had the time wrong so I updated it to 54 hours.
Those are the type of heaters included in commercial truck APU kits for heating a sleeper cab in winter without running the truck. Just mount the burner unit under the bunk and run a fuel line out to oone of the saddle tanks. They work very well. I had one warm my sleeper compartment in -45f wind chill temps (-25 air temp)
Thats no joke, those Webasto's will cook you out of the truck even when it's -40F actual air temp.
They are awesome in a Semi , as long as your batteries hold out. In the early days before genpac's battery life was an issue.
Technology has made big jumps since.
I have that one and what I did with the fuel tank I reloaded to the external part of the workshop . Its been working perfect for the past 2 winter and is working perfect now
Nice 👍 cheers J
Hi, thanks for video, here is some things you might think about:
- Intake of burner must be taken from outside, as you let out other tube. now you are venting heated air to outside, its not a big deal, but when -20c and want to run quietly...
- thermometer is not so good on controller, but you can use to "set" certain temp.
- 5.5hz is 5kw heater. 5,8kw units are the same.
- you can calculate consumption via pump hertz to get more consum information if needed :)
- running on lower setting will have ALOT less consumption of power, you can use your 13.8v ac adaptor (if you use a small lead acid battery in pararell for igniting)
Here on finland electricity prices is about the same, abit more. like 30-60cents/kwh in euro total atm, and there will be alot problems of poor people paying bills as we need heat long time, as we are on north.
That's excellent information. Thank you. Cheers J
Yikes your electricity is expensive! In New Mexico USA I’m paying about 12 cents/kWh. Stay warm -
I saw this video when it came out and bought the same one here immediately in the USA for $109 (that includes tax and delivery). I've used it only twice but it's OUTSTANDING! Something this cheap has no right to be so effective! Anyway, looking forward to mounting it in a light camp trailer and heading out this winter. Great video!
Thank you so much. Well done. I've got more to share soon. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle THANK YOU! This inspired me to experiment. For just ~$100 USD it's been amazing! Cheap, light, and effective. Can't wait to put on my camper build. Thanks again!
Well presented.
One thing to note regarding your calculation for "how much more efficient it is than electric" compares direct heating (which I know is popular in Brittan). The latest generation heat pumps have SCOP above 6, meaning every kW in equals 6kW heat out.
The upfront investment is of course on different levels, but with pre 2022 prices the heat pump will have lower running costs. Add factors such as interest on loans and it gets kind of messy but it's kind of amazing how efficient latest generation heat pumps have gotten.
(For anyone looking up "what heat pump has SCOP>6" there's the Thermia Atlas that I know of)
What is worth noting is that heat pump "steals" heat from one spot to other using some form of agent. Usually it's RA134a and RA134a has a boiling point of -26 degrees. This is important because it means that heat pump cannot "generate" more heat if it's input side is lower than -26 degrees. It's very probable for air operated heat pumps for that to happen, it happens much less often with ground heat pumps. Also the closer to -26 degrees you get, the less efficient heat pump is. Heat pump with SCOP above 6 will not have SCOP above 6 if input is below -20 degrees. Some heat pumps have resistive heater built in as fallback to -26 degrees limitation
@@darekmistrz4364 in which case, one of these diesel powered bad boys would be a good fallback for when it's colder than -26, or when the power is out as It can be 12v powered! Or be an absolute mad man and rig it up as a pre heater for the heat pump lol
@@darekmistrz4364 your mostly right apart from the gas. 134 is the old automotive gas (phased out now)
You wouldn't find that in a house heat pump. Mostly there R32 thease days
@@darekmistrz4364 -26 I can assure you isn't something we expect to see in the UK as a rule. -16 maybe on a few nights of the year in only a few spots. Being an island, we are surrounded by sea and it would take an Ice Age to freeze that and TBH that's not where global temperatures are trending.
Being a newly retired radio ham/code cutter/AWS wrangler/micro-ctrl--sbc fan/build anything nut, I have been looking at how to heat my shack/shed/w-shop without (expensive) electric heaters. So after viewing this excelent video I ordered a 8KW VEVOR Air Heater from the local AUS supplier (yes stoked i was able to buy one from an AUS supplier) I am super pleased with this beast. Awesome solution, works very well and cost 3 fifths of stuff all to run... Thanks Josh loved your work....
Thank you so much and well done 👍. Do check out the follow up video as run more tests and try a few modifications. Cheers J
As an American who's primary winter heat is wood... who lives in a very fire prone area where it gets freezing cold often a month or more before I can safely burn fires, I've been debating one of these. Our power bills aren't as insane as yours, but they've about doubled over the last year.
whose
@@Cotronixco The irony of someone who can't be arsed to write a complete sentence or use punctuation having the stones to correct other people's grammar amuses me to no end.
@@drackar No wonder it's so difficult for you. I mention the word using a very friendly attitude, and you respond by fighting with all your being to make sure you retain your stupidity. You've probably done this for years. Take advantage of the new knowledge instead of foolishly fighting it.
@@Cotronixco My friend, if you believe using a single word grammar correction is friendly, there is something disturbing about you.
@@drackar Oh? As a hurting person, do you really think that adding more information to correct the misspelled word would have been effective and necessary?
Wabasso and S bar have been making those for years. If you look at their installation instructions they tell you that the air intake hose and the exhaust hose have to be a certain length for proper combustion. The air in the shelter also helps out with the noise.
They also make them in a tiny little 12v version that fits inside of a truck or lorry sleeping area.
There are no thermostat settings, so you can get roasted!
Webasto !
Yeah I used to fit them on Lorries and Boats, im a boat builder now. You can use extended exhausts, burner intakes and exchange intakes and outs but if you introduce too many bends in them you need to go into the fueling and fan settings and modify them so it's burning closer to 14:1 again. It's not difficult to do but if you are fitting the genuine ones on a boat then everything has long runs on it. On boats and just as a mod to get them running really good you need to replace the fuel tubing with the rigid type and run them into proper rubber hoses with clamps just as they leave each connector. They make cheapo copy kits of the boat fuelling hoses and I've been told they work fine. Watch what fuel filter you buy as they are known to disintegrate cheap filters and never lengthen the controller panel wiring without figuring our the wire resistances first as that can cause all sorts of issues. See if you are using nasty biofuels or garbage diesel run them flat out for a few mins before you turn them off as it saves your heater plug and keeps them clean. Using a mains power supply for them will always be a timebomb because if you get any sort of power cut or spike it will instantly turn off without the shutdown cooling sequence and it will burn out the inner PCB and the internal wiring on these cheap ones. The genuine ones can take about 5 or 6 hard shutdowns. Cheers.
My first thought as you mentioned in your video was safety but noise too Joshua. So I would mount it externally on a wall and build a weather proof enclosure around it and pipe the heat in probably through a two ducts from one heat outlet.
Thought this was a new product but as soon as you took the cover off I realised it’s the same
Chinese diesel heater people have been using in their camper vans for years… just without the outer casing, and using a separate tank.
They are pretty decent.
what i am most interested in w/ those heaters is if you can scavange the exhaust heat, i thought about running the exhaust trough a longer section of pipe that coils inside a drum filled w/ water, or having the exhaust feed into a large heat exchanger like a normal radiator you would normally have in a house when you have hot water heating
would love to see those ideas tested as i sadly lack the tools or space to do such experiments
I would probably use it as a PRE- heater...it makes a huge difference to cost effectivness.
That's exactly what I have in mind. Video coming up soon. Cheers J
Until you make too much back pressure for the exhaust and you get tired from some strnage reason and oops you killed yourself
@@PlateletRichGel thats why you experiment, to see if its possible and does not impede the exhaust too much, my first suggestion w/ the barrel of water and pipe shud not impede exhaust much at all as its only a slightly longer exhaust in the end, the radiator tho is something that needs to be looked at as the baffled nature of it would put up resistance
There's a guy on here that tried it, I think his name is David Mcluckie. He does all sorts of things with these chinese diesel heaters.
Free....AND Illegal?.....Those are two of my favourite things!, you have my attention good sir.
LoL thank you. Cheers J
i had the same exact thought :D
Anything they don't want you to have is probably awesome!
It's amazing how many things I never wanted, but still have, just because people in power don't approve of it.
Josh thanks for this video, I was quite amused that you were new to the world of diesel heaters but very interesting that you can use alternative fuels. Im new to your channel and having flicked through your content you have a new fan! Very talented and very well presented. Thanks again Mike
As a full time vanlifer a chinese diesel heater is not just a luxury but a life saver! Last winter hit -10°C and without a CDH i'd have frozen to death. I run mine on kerosene (heating oil) which i can buy 'off the pump' at a local garage at 99.9 pence per litre. I have a 2Kw unit and it burns roughly a litre a night (10hrs) so it's a pound a night to heat my van 👍🏻
That's excellent. Well done 👍. Cheers J
Great review Joshua - fantastic how you took the product apart inspected and explained its workings and then carried out a “controlled” test. Excellent content once again. 👏👍✊👌
Thank you Trevor, I've discovered other factors since so I'll include those in the follow up. things like how to calculate the out put and is it really 8kw, what is the electrical consumption and can we heat water using the exhaust. cheers J
Yes.
Yeah, but the control didn't actually evaluate the output so it's baloney.
@@nickwinn7812 well we were told the size of the room, and we saw the temperature at the start and at the finish by the :-( and happy smiling face :-)
Based on the room size and temperature difference it's possible to work it out.
@@Google_Does_Evil_Now It' not possible to be over 100% efficient, full stop. Plus you need to know the heat loss calculation for the room, not it's size.
Will definitely subscribe for that steam turbine. That sounds really interesting. I always wondered how they keep the steam pressure from blowing back through the water intake and keep everything moving in the right direction. Look forward to it. :)
I bought a chain-fall hoist from Vevor as well as a beam clamp they sell.
The two worked wonderfully to anchor the chain-fall to a beam in my garage and let me lift heavy loads in and out of a truck and hopefully will allow me to pull my project car's engine soon.
I'll be looking at these diesel-fired heaters, as while the garage is insulated and wired for power, it's not set up for heating and something like this could work well to take the edge off during the winters.
Vevor is the Acme of China !
I too have a number of Vevor products and would have no problem recommending them, generally speaking cheap Chinese junk today has become cheap Chinese products, everyone will tell of a disaster but no one mentions the many happy customers. The lower prices also makes many tools available to the average person which would have been cost prohibitive, can only be good😊.
This is the first time I have seen one of your videos. Very good, very informative. I think we'll all be doing this soon if prices keep going up and up.
One thing must not be forgotten when you want to extract heat from the exhaust gas: if it cools down to 100 °C, the water vapor can condense and mix with the carbon dioxide to form carbonic acid. The condensation boiler is also created (the flue gas is cooled to 75-80°C), which is why it is made of acid-resistant material (preferably). If you still want to extract heat and do not want to install another heat exchanger, then the temperature of the flue gas must not go below 120°C under any circumstances.
carbonic acid is good for humans.
Just an important safety note. As it is set up right now, the exhaust is leaking carbon monoxide into your workshop. The metal heater outlet, hose clamped to the metal exhaust, is not creating a good seal. If your heater is not properly tuned (most of these are not, out of the box - ideally, they should be custom-tuned for your specific intake/exhaust setup and elevation) you will probably soon notice soot stains coming out of the gap as evidence of the leak.
While the leak probably isn't huge, and these heaters normally don't produce huge amounts of CO, this can still kill you. These heaters can also produce huge amounts of CO if anything goes slightly wrong, for instance a partially blocked intake or exhaust, bad fuel, sooting up from age, the tune being wrong for any one of the heater's power settings, etc.
The air intake should also be outside, facing the same direction as the exhaust, to minimize the effect of the wind on burn efficiency, which can cause sooting, leading to CO, etc. etc. I recommend sealing the exhaust connection with the highest temp automotive silicone you can find; I use Permatex 81878 and it has held up well, though I reseal it every couple years as the exhaust temps are right at the limit of what it can handle, and silicone will degrade with heat over time regardless.
Yeah man they can smoke up when it gets clogged up if you dont fire them up to run every now and then. :)
Maybe diesel can produce CO if burned but in an old diesel car, you are safe from CO poisonings! Funny enough modern diesel cars produce CO AND very small and dangerous particles that really can cause you serious health problems and even kill you! But people think it's clean when it's not any black smoke witch in fact was much less dangerous to inhale...
I see so many people leaving the air intake for the burn chamber inside which will slowly pull heat out of your building or whatever you are heating. Good to finally see someone comment the correct way
Its good practice to have a Carbon Monoxide detector in any room in which things are burned. I run a wood fired Sauna. You would be surprised by how often that thing goes off...
If you put the combustion intake inside you will never get carbon monoxide poisoning! As it may be leaking 5% but 95 % of the intake is getting pushed outside
FYI .. I had a similar unit fitted to my Narrow Boat, when the unit was fed by the mains via a battery charger (power supply) .. it would burn out the glow plugs (every 6 moths) as the voltage was kept above 12v in this case 14v to keep the batteries charged..... so make sure the power supply you have is maintained 12v ...
Someone else may have already mentioned this but the greenish fuel line is worth replacing due to quality issues and the ticking fuel pump is upgradable to an almost silent one. Also a vid where exhaust ran though a steam radiator / old emptied column oil heater before exit outside for heat recovery & significant efficiency gain.
I just had my identical unit delivered about 2 weeks ago - it's been fantastic so far! I still need to pipe the exhaust outdoors, so I've only been doing short test runs (my shop is 26*62*12ft so my interior air volume... well... it's a lot!). But instead of having my natural gas furnaces going, I suspect this will be HUGELY cheaper to run, especially using my waste oil (my next experiment is to 50/50 it with diesel which is about $2/L here).
For my exhaust, I'm going to use a trick we do/did in the generator biz - You drill a hole and shove a ~3" pipe through the wall. Then stick your much smaller exhaust through the large pipe. 3 machine screws 120* apart go through the walls of the larger pipe (drilled and tapped) at each end, so the tips of them just contact (not penetrate) your small pipe. After you're all done, pack the hole around the small pipe with Roxul (or another fire resistant insulation). It's super cheap, and works great.
That's awesome. Some people put a fuel switch over valve so they run on diesel first to get up to temp and have the waste oil copper line wrap around the exhaust to pre heat it and make it run better. Cheers J
Make sure you filter the waste oil thoroughly before dumping it in the generator. You might clog the fuel lines and the injectors. Happened to my last diesel generator that I used to produce electricity.
One very important note. Normally, homes are heated not with resistive heating elements but with heat pumps that use the vapor compression cycle. These typically operate at a coefficient of performance of between 2 and 5. This refers to the energy required to move a quantity of heat between two points. For example, a heat pump operating at a COP of 5 would only require 200 watts to move 1,000 watts of heat from the outside environment to the inside. Heat pumps are also used to cool by operating in reverse. It's important to consider the efficiency of heat pumps when doing this kind of comparison. Still looks like a good product given the outrageous energy costs in Europe.
Worth noting is that heat pump "steals" heat from one spot to other using some form of agent. Usually it's RA134a and RA134a has a boiling point of -26 degrees. This is important because it means that heat pump cannot "generate" more heat if it's input side is lower than -26 degrees. It's very probable for air operated heat pumps for that to happen, it happens much less often with ground heat pumps. Also the closer to -26 degrees you get, the less efficient heat pump is. Heat pump with SCOP above 5 will not have SCOP above 5 if input is below -20 degrees. Some heat pumps have resistive heater built in as fallback to -26 degrees limitation
@@darekmistrz4364 RA134a has already phased out, modern heat pumps in last 5 years are using R32. R32 boiling point is -52C and R32 heat pumps have 1.5-2.0 COP at -30C. At least this is how it is in Nordic heat pump market.
Google does not agree with your thesis @Brandon B. Homes being heated with heat pumps is the smallest percentage.
I have never seen a home heated by a heat pump in the UK. They are rubbish, anyway.
@@richardjames4632 Oh no they are awesome. Espacially when using a groundwater heat pump since groundwater has a temperature of 10-14°C year round at least in Germany. So you can heat your house with a COP of 3-5 depending on the groundwater temperature and on how much you can cool it down. Also right now the industry is adapting the concept due to the high prices for natural gas. A 20 Megawatt heat pump (7 MW electrical power) is currently beeing build which will use the water of the rhine river as a heat exchange source. So the concept goes a long way with applications for BASF as well since they need a lot of Steam and Natural gas steam reformation got a lot more expensive lately. If we would be able to produce and store electrical power a bit more reliably (maybe with a bit more nuclear power) Germany could be fine.
Just discovered you this eve Joshua, absolutely loved this video. I am a self employed welder fabricator/ engineer and was thinking of getting the usual expensive brand of these heaters and doing the same in my workshop. This unit seems a good punt for the price. looking forward to seeing your other stuff.
Thank you. I'm starting to doubt using Chinese products from a sustainability and economic point but who can pay for locally made thanless you build it yourself.. cheers J
I don’t know why in gods name this appeared on my recommended videos this morning but I enjoyed every minute! It was Colin Furze digging a tunnel last week for 3 hours. Subscribed!
Thank you so much. Lots more coming soon. Cheers J
I bought one of the heaters without the tins for my 1978 t2 vw for winter camping, I set the controller to 16c, it does act as a thermostat and idles back the unit to help regulate temperature, it stays within about a 4 degree window, I absolutely love this thing, mine uses about 3.8l of fuel per 10 hours of consistent use.
Had 2 for a few years. Only issues really are the versions I have had no fuse (naughty) and no fuel filter (added both) and they run really well on white or red. Downside vs the 10x pricier models - fan bearings aren’t great, 1 got noisy. A silencer for the exhaust is also good to keep noise down. Other than that so much better than old wood stove, in case of burn through on the burner kept CO alarm.
That's great to know. Cheers J
I agree, the exhaust silencer, even the cheap ones make a huge reduction in noise
As always, a very interesting and balanced review. I bought one of these years ago and never got it out of the box as I keep my workshop doors open all year round and don’t really feel the cold. Mine was a lot more expensive at the time so I was surprised to see how much the cost has reduced. Keep the good stuff coming. Looking forward to the wood burner you mentioned.
Thank you so much. Cheers J
where, florida?
Yip, 2.5 years ago I got my first one for $116, the best deal at the time, just bought another one for $88!
😂 Rural Norfolk. I’m the man on the scaffolding in shorts when it’s snowing. As my Mum would say, where there’s no sense there’s no feeling
@@chrisdekock8864 where did you get it?
My experience of these is that they wont burn waste oil. It will work for a little while but before you know it the thing will get clogged up. You will end up having to take it apart every few weeks. I think if you pumped the waste oil through something like a diesel fuel filter then possibly it might work. The issues i encountered was the that the mesh on the fuel inlet near the burn chamber just became completely clogged up. Then the burn chamber itself was full of carbon. I think if you had an ultrasonic cleaner you could probably buy a spare burner and just chuck the clogged up one in the ultrasonic cleaner for a few hours and it would probably be as good as new.
I think the people who claim to burn it successfully for long periods burn it on its maximum rate and adjust the air fuel mix in the settings. They filter it also. Some use a fuel heater or wrap a copper fuel line around the exhaust to make fuel run better and less viscous. Cheers J
Excellent i can see another mod coming on. Have an unused diesel filter for a BMW 530D.
Best buy ever . I use one in my garage / workshop. Brilliant bit of kit and affordable heating.
I think I would have put some fiberglass insulation in the wall where the foam insulation was, but otherwise that's a handy install.
I was going to say that it's quiet, but once it got going, it's a little noisy.
Anything that will help with heating prices is a fantastic idea.
I can't see any reason why this couldn't be installed outside, maybe in a sound insulated housing, and simply run a lagged ducting into the building. Obviously you'd have to make sure to have appropraite ventillation to avoid overheating.
Rockwool insulation
Here in the states I use one of these in my 8x18ft (2.4x5.5 meters) cargo trailer when I camp in it. With zero insulation, it keeps the trailer toasty, even at freezing temperatures. 👍
Thats awesome. cheers J
@adub9812. With some thin but efficient insulation board, i'm sure you'd do even better/lower temperature too.👍
When waste oil is disposed by incineration, it is at very, very high temperatures. This so that all of the combustion products are consumed, rather than vented to the atmosphere, as they would be by low temperature combustion, such as in your heater.
Looks to be a good product that can be made even better by scavenging more heat from the exhaust. Would push up the price for a build, but I would not be surprised if efficiency would be significantly improved if the exhaust coming out were sent through a better air air or air water heat exchanger before being sent out.
The burn chamber is a air to air or air to water exchange so why not just inprove on that area instead of messing with the exhaust pipe?
@@dantronics1682 Adapting a pipe to an off the shelf product is easier.
Various methods have been tried, but in general it's been found to not be worth it. A good heat exchanger will restrict exhaust flow too much, reducing efficiency and causing sooting, and a non-restrictive heat exchanger won't scavenge a worthwhile amount of heat. It is of course technically possible to create a non-restrictive heat exchanger that scavenges worthwhile heat, but it will need to be huge. The force of the exhaust air on these is absolutely miniscule, and even a slight wind can back it up and get the air/fuel ratio all out of whack.
I brought one similar to this on eBay for £89 I used it all last winter to heat my un insulated workshop it goes from 5 degrees up to 15 in about an hour and then I put on lower setting to just keep some heat kicking in, sometimes I have it running all day no issues. Exhaust cored through the wall and sealed up with plumbers 1200 degree silicone. I have a digital carbon monoxide meter and it just kicks 3ppm out of the fan on initial start up but it goes in seconds and my monoxide alarm has never gone off! I’m also still alive 🎉🎉
‘Bought’
I have a good industrial CO unit (MSA) with the yellow and red beacons calibrated. These things warn at 60 ppm and red at 120 PPM. You are completely safe with anything under 20 PPM CO for any extended period of time. I used something similar to this heater made by a german company back in the day because we were poor when the kids were little and run around 4 to 5 PPM consistently. I worked for the gas detection company so I fixed myself up a used unit for home that was more reliable. I know this CO business well. You are good at 2 3 4 5 PPM for any extended period. You need to be concerned about 60 or more on an immediate basis. 1200 will make you sick... so 120 is very conservative. Blast furnace gas is more than 50% CO.
@@noelobrien1773 Get a life....
Wow, i never knew you could run these on waste oil.. That makes these even more interesting.
Btw there's an extensive aftermarket controller called 'Afterburner' which adds many control options and a much more accurate thermostat. You can even connect it to WiFi if you so wish.
Good tip. Thank you. Cheers J
ok i have never heard of this , thanks for the info i will be checking it out as sounds interesting
Don't use waste motor oil. Waste motor oil is very dirty, it turns to concrete inside the burner.
I've done it, but after about 5 US gallons (mixed 50 50 with diesel) it would no longer light. When I took it apart the burner was filled with concrete like deposits. If you are ok cleaning it then go for it. If you depend on it, and can't take it apart, don't do it.
For reference just watch some videos of diy waste oil burner cleaning, I made one in the past and it gets very dirty very fast, even when the burn chamber is red hot.
@@volvo09 could you burn filtered waste cooking oil?
@@ianmontgomery7534 I believe you can, it's just the metals and elements in waste engine oil that cause buildup, like coal "clinkers".
I would still mix it with diesel, I don't think pure veg oil will light.
The igniter or "glow plug" has a little screen "sock" over it, and if that screen gets blocked the ignition process becomes hard and smokey. That's when I knew my unit was clogged up, and then when I opened it I had a lot of hardened deposits inside the burn chamber, all at the back near the igniter and fuel delivery portion.
I live in sunny VietNam, only living in the Central Highlands at 8,000 feet it gets cool. These heaters are very popular. I bought a similar device 5 years ago and since then slowly more and more neighbours have installed these units.
Up north, along the Chinese border, the indigenous groups live in houses with a wood burning fireplaces with flues/chimneys in the middle of the one-room houses (the average house is about 8 metres square) and opening a door causes the smoke to back-Flow and fill the living spaces with smoky fumes.
I appreciate your article as it shows quite clearly some smart up grades that are easy to make.
These heaters make for healthy, heated living spaces.
ONE THING - FIRE EXTINGUISHERS SHOULD BE AT HAND - JUST IN CASE.
I can see these becoming a business venture. With a package of heater, deep cycle battery, solar panel, ducting etc an entire system could be built outside a home(for safety) and duct hot air inside a home, or new build, for probably less than £1000 and capable of heating an average size home for a few pence an hour. A solar panel(with mains back up) to recharge the battery and, if the heater fails, it can be swapped out for a brand new one for £80 + fee, the old heater fixed, cleaned and reused. The initial outlay maybe expensive but it would soon pay for itself. Or even the same system heating water through an existing radiator system? The way electricity and gas prices are rising people will be turning to alternative heat and power sources, mainly things like opening fireplaces/chimneys for wood/coal burning for heating and cooking and solar/batteries for power... ironically the extortionate electricity/gas prices is going to cause more people to burn fossil fuels, something the government is trying its hardest to end!
Very true. Cheers J
I can see these helping people avoid the "Cost of Living Crisis" (TM) and therefore be made illegal on the pretext of safety.
its already out there...
i'm already doing it, as are others ! using 12v wind turbine too ! tax free energy !
@@wayland7150 They are very safe - I've had 2 in my motohome for 5 years - no more dangerous than gas appliances shall we ban them too?
Make sure you mount that 300W metal cage psu into a bigger box for safety. The little plastic cover over the main terminals is not enough. Also due to it having no clamp to hold the cable if anyone tripped over the mains cable the live wires would rip out of the terminal block and then you'd have live wires on the floor. Metal cage power supplies are intended to be mounted in the box of a larger machine which takes care of all that.
You could run the exhaust through a heat exchanger or run the exhaust around a water tank for hot water.
First time I’ve seen your videos and I loved it!!
You explain everything so well that it can make sense to a toddler!
Lovely installation work putting that heater up too!
I instantly subscribed and look forward to seeing more of your content.
Thank you so much Raj, your very kind. Lots more coming soon. Cheers J
Nice review thanks, just one point though. I doubt it can put out 8 KW as diesel energy content is just over 10 kWhr per liter similar to heating oil, so if you used 0.3 liter in an hour it must be outputing around 3.5 kW. so still cheap but a little over twice what you suggested in the video.
Thats very interesting Mark I didn't think of that. I'll be sure to research into it a bit further for the follow up video. I'm also getting hot water from the exhaust too. cheers J
I think the top quality burners have max aprox 92% efficiency. That one mayby 80%? Thats 2.4kwh from 3dl diesel. Bad thing that your burner is weak. Good thing is that your workshop needs less heat to get warm 😂
They will output 8kw, but they're Chinese kilowatts !
correct they are actually 5kw, i think any larger and it infinges active patients of webasto or everspatcha
Hello Joshua, I believe the intent of the burner air inlet is to be outdoors so if something went awry with the combustion fan that all air released from the unit would be exhausted outdoors. The small mesh filter then useful to stop bugs from being sucked in.
In my case, a small woodworking shop about the size of yours, wouldn't want to suck in a bunch of fine sawdust :)
Best!
- Bill
Thank you. Yes see my other videos on the heater and the mods I've done. Cheers J
I think there are some steam engine kits out there to hook up to an alternator.
I read somewhere that small turbines are too costly and less efficient for small scale electricity production. Of course they're much better on a larger scale.
That's definitely an interesting project!
At that point just using a generator would be both cheaper and better, no?
@@josefstalin4532 The whole point is to use wood or wood pellets. I also have a lot of wood, and would definitely be interested in the best method to turn it into electricity
@@swisswildpicsswp3095 One way to consider would be to convert a generator to run on wood gas.
Good Video! I would connect this heater with a temperature sensor so it runs for example when the teperature falls under 18°C and stops at 25°C. It would be nice to see how much fuel you need for 24h for this setting or a similar one.
Wow that's pretty cool heater for a smaller spaces. Very nice video reviewing and testing it out. Always show how things work. Thanks so much. Love the videos. Can't wait to see more videos soon Joshua. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep Making. Keep reviewing. Forge a life worth living. God Bless.
Thank you so much. God bless you too. cheers J
First time viewer. Uruguay the only place on the planet with higher fuel prices than the UK. Oh, yeah, and thanks for not adding any annoying music to the video.
The foam between the steel panels cut out for exhaust is flammable. Though you left a healthy gap there, it might be healthy to stuff that cavity full of rock wool to prevent sustained usage of the machine from causing a burning smell or actual combustion of the wall insulation. It releases cyanide when burning which killed a lot of people in the grenfell tower years back. I think i'd actually double or triple the thru-wall exhaust chimney as if you were say sleeping in the room... stay safe brother. Brilliant video, thank you.
Good tip. Thank you 👍
Fantastic video! I would still like to see you run the heater on some alternative fuels like vegetable oil.
Additionally, with your fabrication skills, you could boost the efficiency by recovering the heat from the exhaust gas.
Plumb the exhaust gas through a coil of tubing, create a heat reservoir by submerging the coil in a drum of water.
Definitely. Video coming up soon. Been to my local fish and chip shop for 20ltrs of free veg oil. Got a heat exchanger system for the exhaust and few other additional parts like a fuel switch over tank. Cheers J
A guy i know uses old central heating radiators and plumbs the exhaust through those.
The cast iron radiators?
@@j.l.m.6862 The normal pressed steel ones. the cast iron ones would do the same thing. probably better. After about a year they would get carboned up but they're virtually free second hand so just fitted another. the heat from them was worth saving.
Good idea to make a water heater. I wonder if there would be any exhaust issues with flow. Would the large length of tubing cool the exhaust and make condensation inside and sludge it up over time? Interesting experiment to test.
Hi !
I saw a video where someone used an old radiator as "extension" for the exhaust.
Worked as a charm and made use of the otherwise wasted heat.
Would be interesting to see your thermo camera take a look at that.
Yes definitely. I'm going to try something similar. Cheers J
@@joshuadelisle Hi again !
Here is a video showing the setup.
ruclips.net/video/3AMz8Vd5-7o/видео.html
It's in German but I guess you can get some nice ideas from it.
Just noticed... he made a mistake with the silencer in front of the radiator.
The silencer has a small drainage opening on the underside and gasses may exit there.
Best Regards
Erich
I made a video of a diesel heater hooked to an old antique iron radiator shaped like a bench, perhaps you saw that one. Anyway, it does work very well, I cooked food and heated water on it and gathered at least an additional 5,000btu from it
Here is my video, I also show the AC/DC variable voltage controller I use which I've actually ran multiple diesel heaters off of simultaneously:
ruclips.net/video/KcCYXgXReAw/видео.html
@@ProlificInvention That radiator is just awesome. Love your setup. THX for sharing.
Great video very well done. I like everything about this unit with a singular exception. The thin tin metal partition separating the heat chamber and all contained within a closed metal outer shell just seems a little unsettling to me. I would encourage those who are able to consider removing the fuel tank and allowing the fuel hose to carry the diesel to the chamber from a bit more of a distance. Just having it external of the outer metal shell should make this unit much safer in my mind. Externally mounting the see through tank would have the added advantage of allowing the user to visually evaluate the fuel level which is kind of handy. It should not be difficult based on what I saw from your review to remove and worth the effort I would hope. Thanks for the video.
I have a couple of these for a caravan and my shed, but not in that big metal box it's the small heating section fitted at the bottom, 15 years ago they sold for around 15 to 25 quid
Edit wow just heard the price of the unit glad I bought these cheap ebay units years ago
Well done and glad to hear they still work well over 15 years. cheers J
You should put the exhaust through the middle of a water tank, this would cool down the exhaust and give you free hot water, also with the air pipe and filter put it outside as you will run a cleaner burn with cold air instead of using the hot air from the shed.
Nah, not even close witch!
F.O.
Great video friend, I
use stainless steel wool for the intake, and never had a problem with debris.
Thanks for sharing bro!!
Should have used a long coil for the exhaust before it exits the shop, to extract as much more heat as possible from the exhaust heat. A lot of the efficency is going right out. Even an exhaust heat exchanger of some sort.
Not so neat but even a few coils of the exhaust pipe on the floor before going outside?
@@JeffCM1 sure that could work too, it would probably be a lot more work but it would contribute to heating a surface area.
Never run one of these heaters on a PSU alone - always have a battery in parallel. This is because if you have a power cut and the heater doesn't power down correctly - it just simply stops - the controling circuit board inside will get fried and be useless.
Brilliant. I've installed a few of these in Land Rovers and Overland vehicles. Definitely installing one for office feeding. The comments below are extremely useful as well. Thank you Joshua
Great Video as usual straight and honest
Just one thing ive come across myself is if your running from a main source of power and not a battery
These heaters dont like not running there cool down sequence i would recommend a battery charger and connect battery to keep it going incase of a power outage
Keeps the Videos coming Joshua
Regards Greg
Thats a great point and I'll look into that. thank you. cheers J
Was just thinking exactly the same thing! Well done Greg!
Speaking as a Canadian, I'd like to suggest to you something about heat. Remember when that heater was blowing on your metal trestles & with the FLIR you noticed they were hot? You mentioned that you should move them, since they were hot.
No. They are a heat buffer. When you're finished using your heater, that metal will continue to emit heat. In fact, spread them around your shop. Just a suggestion for when your British weather has the audacity to dip below -1° (HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA it's a nice, mild, -7° outside my door)
PS - first time viewer & subbed.
Why do people have a lower intelligence than birds?
Because they eat hambuggers.
Birds avoid the cold, yanks just burn everything they can grab hold of.
Awesome eh. Pretty good. Kinda cool. Shucks dem is smart! Gee whizz I speak as a yank far fun. Dats ma jab.
and if you set a temp, it doesn't shut completely off but drops to lowest pump setting instead, so it will continue to keep the fire ball going inside and continue to put out a little heat.
Hoping everyone on your side of the pond can stay warm this winter.
It will be difficult for some. I will be looking at more cost effective ways to keep warm that's for sure. Cheers J
Mine on the lowest setting uses about 100ml per hour, that's 10 hours of heat per litre. Amazing
That's good information. Cheers J
Great video: From a design point of view, wouldn't it be better to have the fuel tank underneath the burner in case of leaks.
I venture it would depend on the rating on the pump and feed hose...having the pump gravity feed may be best for the longevity of the pump...that being said if the tank was metal then being in the units case may heat the fuel abit increasing it's efficiency of use...just a bit of pondering and not stating this as any type of fact...
I love my diesel heater The only thing I did differently was put the air intake outside so efficiency went up with the air duct inside it caused a serious draft through my windows and door
Video Idea: Plumb the hot side through a thermal mass, like an intercooler inside a tank of glycol .
the thermal mass will keep the area warm and continue to radiate heat for hours after the unit is idled down or off.
135 Gal = 1375 BTU's . even if you got 70% efficiency , that's significant .