1956 Raleigh Superb - Bare Metal / Raw Steel - Vintage Bicycle Restoration
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
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The Superb is back! I ran a poll and you guys really wanted to see a bare metal bike so here it is. It took a while but it was definitely worth it!
My favourite method was using a wire wheel on a angle grinder but paint stripper would be the best at removing all the paint and keeping the history in the steel. I didn’t use any rust treatment though. After doing an experiment on the mudguards it was too hard to remove all the black to get back to the bare metal. I finished with boiled linseed oil in LIGHT coats. It’s a bit of an experiment but it should add a layer of protection to the bike and hopefully make it last.
Hope you guys enjoy!
IF any of your subscribers choose this route to strip paint, a word of WARNING, at some point, bits of wire from your rotating 'tool' WILL detach themselves from said tool and ping off at huge speed into the middle distance, IF you do this outside, in the garden perhaps? these tiny sharp fragments of wire will end up in your feet (which is extremely painful) worse still, they will end up in the feet/paws of your pets, who can't reach for the nearest pair of tweezers. I made this mistake and the only remedy was to get on hands/knees and, armed with a large magnet scour the whole garden. If you care about your feet and those of your pets (and the pets of others......PLEASE do this INDOORS in a sealed off area, which you can vacuum/sweep easily afterwards. Same applies if you go the chemical 'stripper' route.
Definitely top advice there. I did it indoors and with a full face shield too. I've picked wire out of my cheek before... it's not pleasant. Now... how do I pin this comment.
I think you've just done it? Btw, Thank you for all these videos, like many out here in internet land, I love what you do, but.................PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE, I beg of you, stay away from powder-coaters, spray painting your frames really isn't that difficult, the finish is IMHO far nicer/more durable, and fits in with the quest for 'originality' far more credibly. All the Best, GT.
If you use the twisted wire wheel it will limit the amount of pieces that come off the wheel. Having said that, I always vacuum the area where I use it.
I’m so happy someone cares for these old steel bikes!!
The rusty Raleigh’s fate is revealed at last ! It ‘s good to see that frame didn’t end up in the bin , cool concept choice as well !
Thank you!
I own a similar Raleigh superbe Dawn tourist bike. It was lovely to see the raw details on the frame. Your bike looks amazing. Well done mate.
Complete dedication to the task, nice work for an old steed.
Loved the montages in this vid. The little colour on the pump really looks great with the bare metal.
It does look great. Classic geometry. Good job on the clean-up. I went for the stripped look on a bike as a kid. (Nothing implied.), in the end I spent more time explaining why I didn’t paint it then I would have spent painting. If you do get the urge to paint, stick with the theme, silver/grey and black. Grey frame, black pinstripe, to highlight the frame details, black chain guard and black mudguards.
Bike looks great, finish brings the character to the forefront!
...stunning, I think you've done a fantastic job!
The mud guard was very cool, but if it doesn’t work for you, you have to keep rolling.
That's a brilliant result considering it was destined to be chucked. Even if you choose not to ride it long-term, at least it's ready with a new lease of life for someone else. Huge respect for that!
I'm actually looking forward to riding it properly now :)
Top banana. If this year's summer is anything like last year's, you'll get plenty of opportunity, too!
This probably would have been easier just to sand blast the whole frame, and then wire wheel just for the finish. Well done tho!
Great job well done. A real labour of love
Beautiful rebuild. I like it.
surface prep wheel works very well to remove paint and rust , available diy stores...
Great work.
I like it.
Best wishes from Germany
I've been watching your vintage builds for a while now. I'm currently building a path racer on a Raleigh DL-1 frame myself I've learned a lot from your channel especially your Hercules build. Thanks so much for all your shared experience. On this bare metal bike I think you should go with the mudguards - maybe cut the originals down in length to get rid of the decay. I don't think the flap disc marks on the metal are a problem. I love the full chaincase. I'd flip the North road bars though and I like the rear rack and your plan to build a wood box that will match the pedals.
I probably will fit some guards at some point but I'll get another set that mount to the proper mounting points (and not the axle like that set). I'll probably find a set that I can clean up the same way as the chaincase.
I'm using a 1950's Raleigh Industries calliper brake set complete with levers. The set has cables with the pear ends in useable condition but I want to use new cables. What are the cable stops you use with these brakes (like on your Hercules build - the ones you filed down) and where can I get them? Thanks again for your channel. Your videos have been a really great resource for me in approaching this project.
I'd like to see what you're doing with the DL-1 frame. Any chance you'd consider sending along pictures?
It's still early days for my project. I've been assembling parts and researching the history of these bikes for the last two months. MonkeyShred's channel has been very helpful. I learn new things almost everyday and sometimes make mistakes. Since first commenting on this video I've learned more about old Raleigh frames. I now think mine is actually a DL-22. I've assembled lots of parts including a Brooks saddle, Soma Lauterwasser bars, GB hinduminium stem, Rivendell cork grips, Shwalbe delta cruiser tires (cream), 1950,s Raleigh Industries brake callipers and levers, an early 1950's window trigger shifter that I have disassembled and cleaned and am now trying to figure out how to replace the worn brass plating on the face plate, I have a replacement headbadge and fork thimbles, a vintage aluminum pump, and a vintage vinyl behind the seat saddle bag that I intend to remake out of leather. The frame, crank, wheel set and 3 speed hub are from an early 1970's bike. Basic 20-30 tubing. I intend to have the frame powder coated in a dark green.
Jeff Rutkair Sounds like quite a project. I’ve got a soft spot for Raleighs. I’ve restored a bunch of them, but never to the point of modifying or repainting. Good luck with your undertaking.
Monkey shred. Just saw this video. I have a 1955 Rudge Whitworth. Very similar to this bike. I saw that you reused the original brakes. I would like to reuse my original brakes. But the cables are a bit stiff in the tubes. As you know these cables were a Raleigh design, which are no longer available. Where did you find these cables? If not the Raleigh cables, how do you keep the ends from pulling off when used?
Excellent job. 👍
Thank you for the videos . An inspiring way of seeing things.
Zsolt
Those twisted wire wheels are savage! If your angle grinder has a speed control then try turning it to its slowest speed that way when and if you catch an edge it’s not too bad and doesn’t throw the wheel out of balance, there’s nothing worse than an unbalanced wheel! Numb hands is not funny 😁
Yeh, the hands went numb a few times! Ha. Worked well though!
Been watching your spot for a while now, this Bicycle was made 4 years before i was born, it was made in England, that is where Bicycles were built to last, today's post proves that, it was also made to have mudguards, so maybe you should think about putting them back on, give her back her dignity, these are just my thoughts, it looks nice, but something is missing from her, and it should be ridden in any weather. I have a superb it was made in the 80's, (85) with front rubber mudflap.
I will be looking for a set of guards, but some that mount to the points on the fork and frame as intended and not the axles.
Glorious indeed ! Love it :}
The bike looks great, personally I’d ditch the chain case for a simple hockey stick cover. As for protection bees wax has traditionally been used for iron work 😉
Try this, heat up and melt together bees wax, turpentine and boiled linseed, can’t remember the ratios but it can be found on RUclips it’s great for waterproofing shoes, canvas and just about anything
Ah ok! Another method to try out then! I'll give that a go on another bike.
Looks awesome man, definitely keep us posted how the linseed oil does at protecting the frame
Will do!
+1 for this, I'm very interested to see how it lasts
Thank you. Looks amazing.
I found using a wire brush drill bit on a drill was best, using a small dremel sanding bit to get into the hard to reach spots. After this I would go all over the bike with some rough steal wool and autosil metal polish to bring it out and remove most the swirls and scratches from the wire. Finally I would repeat this with some finer steel wool and autosil
Waited a long time for this vid xD
Looks great!
You have not known the metal cat. The esquilax.
To be honest I've done loads of steel frames, paint stripper etc etc, Sand blasting is cheaper and more effective and leaves surface smooth and time saving, but gotta admire your work (long live steel)
I too thought sand blasting would be more effective but it looks as though he was trying out different techniques. Fair play to him, it's come out great.
It's true. I could have dropped everything off at the powder coating place and they would have blasted it for a tenner but it would have stripped off all the history from the frame and dulled it down. Paint stripper is definitely a great option but it's so expensive :(
I used paint stripper to get the paint off my mountain bike it worked ok. Still had to use a wire brush
It's just not as strong as it used to be. :(
Hey I'm looking to a 1961 superbe and a 1959 boulevard tourist but need to replace the cables, what did you use to bolt on the cable to replace the fixed end. I noticed you tighten an alenkey sleeve?! Great bike cheers
They are solderless nipples. Available in different shapes and sizes but may need a bit of filing down to fit snug
My uncle has asked me to restore a very similar version of this bike. Unfortunately the rims were corroded and the stem was sacrificed in the process of stripping it down. Do you know a website where i could find wheels and a new stem? Ideally with a sturmey 3 speed hub.
eBay?
@@MonkeyShred all are from america with very large shipping fees. Ive found a website called “bankrupt bike parts” though it seems a bit sketchy. Thanks anyways.
What an amazing bike! I have an old Peugeot I ride along the beach boardwalk here in San Diego... it’s stripped down to bare metal like this and you can see the head badge outline of the lion in the rust. It’s held up well for the year I’ve rode it, normally the beach should have rusted it well out. I clear coated mine with lacquer. I see you put boiled linseed on yours which interested me, I rubbed some on my bike but it’s been almost a week with no signs of it drying... is that normal? Should I be patient and put it in the sun? Thanks
Nice build fella, I strip frames with an angle grinder and selection of wire wheels.If you coat the frame in paint stripper the night before it really helps.
I think your bike would really suit a cool front rack with wooden runners and a big front light. A box on the back would be to under the seat and not look right,i'd lose the back rack,but that's just me. Bon continu.
It's getting a nice big front light tied up to that dynohub. I have a couple but I need to refurb them. Front rack should look good with those slats too.
I'm currently stripping a steel hardtail mountain bike frame and I'm hoping to polish the brazing then wipe it all down with methylated spirits. How well did the boiled linseed oil hold up ? And how often do you need to apply ? Thanks
It works pretty well. I couldn't give a timeframe though, it would depend on location, riding style, weather etc etc.
I noticed you are using a white grease on your recent videos. I would love to know more about what greases you use when. I am working on a 1971 Hercules with a sturmey archer 3 speed and don't know what to put in the gearbox. Great video👍
I've done a 3 speed rebuild video before. I coated the internals in a light automatic transmission oil so it didn't get too clogged up and the bearing races had normal bearing grease in but used sparingly.
Nice
So nice
The problem with stripping these old paints of is that they are lead based. Paint strippers won't touch it. You have to be so careful when sanding it not to inhale or consume the dust. I'm currently restoring a 1950's Humber made by Raleigh and have chosen to leave the old paint on. It adds to the aged matured look of the bike, natural patina! I'm lucky that the rims are stainless steel but am concerned with the old 4 speed Sturmey hub as they are very temperamental at times!!! That's why they stopped making them. Nice to still see interest in these veteran bikes, testament to their build quality. However from the 70's onwards this quality did decline. Take care, all the best.
I have a 4 speed and first gear slips unless you hold the gear lever down. Not found a fix for that problem yet any ideas?
@@postiephilip Unfortunately not, these are just some of the problems with the 4 speed. Have a look on Sheldon Brown's web site sheldonbrown.com, this is the place to go for any non general bike information.
This did originally have a 4 speed and stainless rims. That hub was seized though and the rims I stole for my path racer. I'm definitely going to have a look at servicing the 4 speed though... the Dawes I'm doing has a 4 speed so I hope it works.
@@MonkeyShred I hope so for you. Whatever you do don't lose the toggle chain as totally unobtainable. Good trick with these is to put a matchstick through the adjustment hole on the non drive side. This prevents this half of the chain springing out if it loosens off.
Use paint stripper or sand blaster
Paint stripper can be effective, but it can also get expensive. Sand blasting works well but can remove any patina that would be on the raw steel.
May I know how to maintain raw bike from rust? As I know once the paint stripe they are bound to rust faster.
You can lacquer frames to protect against rusting but I used boiled linseed oil on this build.
@@MonkeyShred ah alright thank you 😊
Nitromors, steel wool and some time before polishing. No quick way of doing it. Just need to make sure you use lots and don't let it dry out.
Lots of Nitromors is costly :(
@@MonkeyShred yeah, it is that! Actually got a new one too try, will let you know how I get on. Its the chemical that it is in Nitromors, but not mixed. Will be more tricky to use I'm sure, but it's a lot cheaper.
Does anybody have an update on the lineseed oil???? How long does it last and how often do you need to reaplly it? I life in a place where I cant spray paint something, so I am thinking about this as a alternative.
It's going to depend on the thickness of the coat / use of the bike and weather conditions for how long it lasts. I don't think there's a specific time that can be given.
@@MonkeyShred Cheers mate, appreciate the answer. Do you feel it when the coat wears off? I have 0 experience with lineseed oil
I'm sure you heard this enough times since creating this video but paint stripper would have saved you time along with naval jelly would have removed the rust.
Use paint remover can get from halfords brush on and wait
It costs a lot though to get decent stuff.
I have stripped three frames back to bare metal this year using Power Strip from an eBay seller.
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F262539148822
It works an absolute treat and is much stronger than Nitromors. I think it still contains the magic ingredient. I painted it onto my powder coated steel RT Shayler and literally watched the paint bubble up and flake off. Deffo worth a try
Sandblasting. Not good?
Sandblasting would work but it does take any details like the staining of the steel and leaves everything with a mottled mat finish
The dish you talking about. On the rims ?
Yup. The front wheel is centred over the small flange of the hub for some reason. I also noticed the spokes for the large flange have a lot of threads exposed which shouldn't really be the case. I''ll strip the wheel down and rebuild it properly.
MonkeyShred yeah. Ya did a good job on it.
1.5x playback speed, on.
Needs period mudguards imo.
Go on put some shorties on it 😉😉
Never!
Yeah take the chain guard off. Better.
You need to RUclips search "homemade baking soda blaster"
Nice - I'll have a look at that.
@@MonkeyShred ruclips.net/video/QZhBQXm4yBY/видео.html
@@MonkeyShred ruclips.net/video/k6L_ArXCbYs/видео.html
Discover abrasive blasting, Invented long ago and used to remove old coatings and oxidation for decades.
Abrasive blasting tends to leave a rough finish though and take away the details of the patina though. That's what needed in a raw build
Talk less please
How about if I sing instead?
this is not a restoration just bike recovery I don't like it
destroyed a classic bicycle.....