Absolutely crazy that we built that engine and it functions and functions well! Also incredible how much air flows through this thing. Cannot wait to do some proper pulls and hear this thing sing!
So awesome to see the results of all the research, planning, and careful execution that's gone into this project. Yeah, a little more work on the exhaust would be good 😊
Yes dude!! I'm right behind you. It drives so well and sounds so good. It's weird how every single one of these engines is so touchy with the setup on these TBI units. My bridgy 12a likes 210CID for the engine displacement and braps at 750. So pumped for you!!
Great sounding car dude and great job on rebuilding the engine. Honestly it makes me want to put a bridge port in my rx4. 😅 If you don't mind me asking, since you said on an other video the irons you got where lapped, how much did they remove and did you get them renitrided?
Thanks!! The shop that sold me and lapped my plates said that they only lap 2 thou, and that there would be plenty of factory nitride layer left. After reading way too many forum posts, I still have no idea how deep the nitride layer really goes as I've heard claims of as thin as 0.4 thou and as thick as 4 thou. So, I'm just running on that promise from my machinist and seeing how it goes. I've heard the argument that in actuality step wear is rarely the cause of failure for an engine so it's not worth the $$, but ALSO have heard that your plates will wear incredibly fast without nitriding so I'm not sure what to think 😂Also, they sent me a R5 casting rear iron which means it never had nitriding to begin with, but apparently were also built from a harder base steel. Other two plates are Y castings, so the engine really is a wild combination of parts from different years lol
@@GilesVessey yeah man, same here. I've read pretty much everything there is about nitriding and lapping and no one seems to be able to provide a definitive answer . Hadn't noticed the R5 rear iron but now that you mentioned it it looks like a spare one I have from a factory assembled engine from a SA, so it would also be nitrided.
With nothing tugging on the throttle bracket, set the RPM in the software, and start the car - then, adjust the screw on the primary butterflies COUNTER-CLOCKWISE and you should hear the rpm drop - keep turning it until it idles at the correct rpm AND the IAC position shown on the screen is between 2~8. I think if you have to adjust it enough you may have to cycle the system to have it recalibrate the TPS
Absolutely crazy that we built that engine and it functions and functions well! Also incredible how much air flows through this thing. Cannot wait to do some proper pulls and hear this thing sing!
Functions well and doesn't leak a dang thing, we definitely did a bang up job for a first build!
So awesome to see the results of all the research, planning, and careful execution that's gone into this project. Yeah, a little more work on the exhaust would be good 😊
Yes dude!! I'm right behind you. It drives so well and sounds so good. It's weird how every single one of these engines is so touchy with the setup on these TBI units. My bridgy 12a likes 210CID for the engine displacement and braps at 750. So pumped for you!!
Congrats on hitting the road. That’s pretty awesome.
Thanks man!
Great sounding car dude and great job on rebuilding the engine. Honestly it makes me want to put a bridge port in my rx4. 😅 If you don't mind me asking, since you said on an other video the irons you got where lapped, how much did they remove and did you get them renitrided?
Thanks!! The shop that sold me and lapped my plates said that they only lap 2 thou, and that there would be plenty of factory nitride layer left. After reading way too many forum posts, I still have no idea how deep the nitride layer really goes as I've heard claims of as thin as 0.4 thou and as thick as 4 thou. So, I'm just running on that promise from my machinist and seeing how it goes. I've heard the argument that in actuality step wear is rarely the cause of failure for an engine so it's not worth the $$, but ALSO have heard that your plates will wear incredibly fast without nitriding so I'm not sure what to think 😂Also, they sent me a R5 casting rear iron which means it never had nitriding to begin with, but apparently were also built from a harder base steel. Other two plates are Y castings, so the engine really is a wild combination of parts from different years lol
@@GilesVessey yeah man, same here. I've read pretty much everything there is about nitriding and lapping and no one seems to be able to provide a definitive answer . Hadn't noticed the R5 rear iron but now that you mentioned it it looks like a spare one I have from a factory assembled engine from a SA, so it would also be nitrided.
When you set your throttle position, how exactly did you set it 2%?. Im having the same issue with my engine idling at 4k.
With nothing tugging on the throttle bracket, set the RPM in the software, and start the car - then, adjust the screw on the primary butterflies COUNTER-CLOCKWISE and you should hear the rpm drop - keep turning it until it idles at the correct rpm AND the IAC position shown on the screen is between 2~8. I think if you have to adjust it enough you may have to cycle the system to have it recalibrate the TPS
Let me buy your Holley air cleaner
@@antionewalker4081 I returned it, sorry!